Walk into Kandahar Afghan Kitchen, the newish Afghan restaurant on 36th Street in Hampden, and you’ll find yourself heading straight for the counter. Because although there are many well-appointed tables between the front door of the restaurant and that counter, what you’re drawn to first is the low wall of baklava, stacked like Tetris in front of the open kitchen.

The golden squares—sheets of phyllo layered with pulverized pistachios and walnuts and doused with honey—are made in-house, secured in containers, then built into a small fortress beside the register, maybe to remind you that you can take extra home after dinner. You will want to.

Baltimoreans are probably more familiar with the cuisine of Afghanistan than most citydwellers, thanks to The Helmand, the much-loved Afghan restaurant in Mt. Vernon that’s been run by the Karzai family for nearly 40 years. It is also thanks to The Helmand that we now have Kandahar, as its chef and owner, Assad Akbari, was the head chef there for most of those decades. Akbari began cooking at The Helmand when it first opened in Chicago, then moved to Baltimore when the Karzais moved here and relocated their restaurant in 1989.

Both Akbari and his brother, Sadiq, who was for years a server at The Helmand and is now Kandahar’s GM, left the Mt. Vernon restaurant in 2020 as a consequence of the pandemic.

“I always wanted to open my own restaurant,” says Akbari, sitting at one of his own tables while taking a break from cooking on a recent afternoon.

Above him, a traditional Afghan village dress given to him by his daughter hangs on the wall, its fuchsia fabric fanned out like an accordion. A series of embroidered regional caps bedecks a wall like a deconstructed hat rack. A gorgeous black-and-red rug, one of Akbari’s own, adorns another section.

The dishes that come to the tables are as much works of art as what’s on the walls: the triangular ravioli called aushak, embedded with leeks and scallions then topped with a rich beef-and-tomato sauce and a drizzle of yogurt; kadoo, made of bright copper-colored slices of pumpkin bathed in pale garlicked yogurt.

Though the menu is large, one dish you should absolutely order is the Kabuli pallow, an ornate presentation of long-cooked lamb beneath a dome of spiced rice pilaf, plumped raisins, and a bright thatch of julienned carrots. “It’s the national dish of Afghanistan,” says Akbari. “If you want to treat your guests in a special way, you cook that dish for them.” Reminiscent of an Indian biryani but with the tender meat hidden inside, it’s so good you’ll immediately understand why it’s the centerpiece of feasts and celebrations.

The cooking is subtle—Afghan cuisine is flavorful but not spicy, boosted by pickles and soothed by yogurt—and hinges on deft combinations and excellent sourcing. Kandahar’s lamb and beef are sourced from Old Line Custom Meat Co., while the pumpkins for the kadoo as well as the turnips for the shalgham that accompanies many plates are from Sharp’s, a 120-year-old farm in Howard County that Akbari visits twice a week.

Much of the menu traces to Akbari’s grandmother’s recipes, brought to this country from Kandahar, which is both the name of the restaurant and the family’s hometown in southern Afghanistan.

“I always loved Hampden; to me it’s like a small Afghan village,” says Akbari, who opened Kandahar in March 2022 after transforming the location, which was previously a furniture store.

The BYOB restaurant is one big dining room leading to that baklava-loaded counter, which in turn gives way to a shelf lined with jars of brightly colored pickled vegetables that fronts the open kitchen where Akbari and his small staff cook everything, including all those aushak; the mantu, or dumplings; the naan that goes out to every table; the soups and kabobs; and the baklava.

Even if you’re well-versed in the various dishes, the menu can be daunting. So the best thing to do is to bring a group, secure a big table, return the menus, and instead follow Sadiq’s advice to order a “family-style” meal. (A bargain at $45 per person.) This means that your table will soon be filled with all the appetizers—the kadoo, aushak, and mantu, plus two eggplant dishes, as well as fried triangles stuffed with potatoes and leeks and garnished with more yogurt sauce—before a round of entrees appears.

In our case this meant, of course, Kabuli pallow, then lamb chops, kabobs, stewed chicken, sauced salmon with more seasoned rice, sabzi, a succulent cooked spinach side, and a basket of just-baked naan that somehow kept refilling.

When we couldn’t eat anything more, Sadiq presented us with small bowls of pale Afghan ice cream, cardamom-infused vanilla studded with chopped dates and figs. Did we eat more? We did. And baklava, by the way, is splendid for breakfast.

KANDAHAR AFGHAN KITCHEN: 914 W. 36th St., Hampden, 667-205-1681. HOURS: Tues.-Fri. 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat.-Sun. Noon-9 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers, soups, salads: $5.50-10.95; mains: $11.95-28.95; desserts: $5.50. AMBIANCE: Arty and minimalist.

It’s a late afternoon in August, and there’s a cluster of people on the sidewalk fronting the little theater and restaurant row in Station North that’s home to The Charles Theatre and an abundance of great restaurant options, including Alma Cocina Latina, Foraged, Sofi’s Crepes—and Tapas Teatro, which, after 21 years, has the most enduring presence of them all.

Promptly at 5 p.m., the crowd disappears through its doors. Although there’s both a Jordan Peele flick and a John Waters retrospective playing at The Charles, it’s the tapas that draw people, consistently, hungrily, for the more than two decades since the Karzai family first opened their small plates Spanish restaurant.

Inside Tapas Teatro, dusky purple walls arch into a high-ceilinged room, illuminated with Gutierrez Studios lights and sconces, next to a busy open kitchen. A dining room showcases century-old brick walls and art (an Iberian pig foraging for acorns; the silhouette of a bull) reflecting the Spanish theme of the menu—by most accounts, the first tapas restaurant in Baltimore.

The building is part of The Charles, the oldest theater in the city, a Beaux-Arts structure designed in 1892 as a trolley barn. A back room showcases a massive bar, a long wooden community table, and benches featuring Andalusian arches. Soon it seems like nearly every table, both inside and out on the sidewalk and pandemic-expanded patio, is filled with people attentive to plates of boquerones (marinated white anchovies), croquetas built of potatoes and cheese, the sauced lamb meatballs called albondigas, bowls of gazpacho, grilled octopus doused with romesco sauce, and glasses filled from the extensive Spanish wine list.

“When we first opened, we had Spanish influences, but becoming more authentic was a process, as I started going to Spain,” says Helmand Karzai, 43, whose family also owns The Helmand, the excellent 32-year-old Afghan restaurant on N. Charles Street. (Yes, Helmand’s parents, Pat and Qayum Karzai, named the restaurant after him; it’s also the name of an important province and river in Afghanistan, where the family is from.) Karzai had been involved in Tapas Teatro from the outset, but gradually stepped front and center as he became more interested in Spanish wines and his parents moved away from the day-to-day operations to the administrative side.

“I started taking over the wine-ordering, which means the wine-tasting, and I really got into wine.” Karzai attended the wine program at The French Culinary Institute (now the International Culinary Center) in New York City and spent more and more time traveling to Spain, particularly rural Catalonia and the wine regions of Priorat and Montsant.

“Spain had a moment in the early 2000s, [likely] because of Ferran Adrià,” says Karzai, referencing the Spanish chef who ran El Bulli in Catalonia, which was for years considered the best restaurant in the world.

This moment happily coincided with the then-newly opened tapas restaurant. Serving tapas just made sense, as Karzai’s father loved the cuisine and the small-plates model—this was years before small plates became the trendy thing they are now was perfectly tailored for moviegoers.

“Hey, we’re connected to a movie theater,” says Karzai. “What gets people in and out? It matches so well.” And it doesn’t hurt that the restaurant shares The Charles’ liquor license, which means that you can take the signature jugs of sangria inside the theater.

The Karzai family had other ventures, the now-closed Pen & Quill and B. Bistro, “but this has always been where my heart is,” says Karzai.

Between the carefully selected bottles of Pedro Ximénez and Axta Patcharan, the long list of Idiazábal and Manchego cheeses, and the ribbon-y mounds of jamón Serrano and Ibérico de Bellota on the menu, you can tell. The staff is made up of as many longtimers as the clientele, with some cooks having worked for a decade or more behind the stoves, a rarity these days.

That familiarity—and the dexterity that comes with it—shows in the plates of three of the best tapas: a terrific iteration of gambas al ajillo, perfectly cooked shrimp in olive oil and garlic, served with discs of baguette, a classic dish that’s been on the menu since the restaurant opened; papas bravas, fried potatoes paired with a zippy aioli; and the chile rellenos, roasted piquillo peppers stuffed with melted, aged Idiazábal. The dish is deceptively simple—just bold, salty cheese oozing from the peppers’ tender, bright-scarlet casing—but it’s alarmingly good.

And then there’s the one big plate on the menu—that’s the paella—something to order if you’ve already seen your movie, or you’ve skipped the showing altogether because you’ve been distracted by the impressive gin-and-tonic list. It’s an old-school offering, with seafood, chicken, and chorizo embedded within saffron-painted Calaspara rice and a verdant handful of fresh peas. It is undeniably delicious—and comforting as a bag of movie popcorn.

COMING SOON

Busboys and Poets: The latest dining destination to join the scene in Howard County will be a spinoff of this Washington, D.C. favorite. The quasi-coffeehouse and bookstore operates seven locations surrounding the Capitol, and now, owner Andy Shallal is widening his footprint with a new two-story Columbia cafe slated to open next year. “I think we have a lot of people that live in the suburbs, who may work in the city, but want to kick back a bit before they go out,” Shallal told the Washington Business Journal. “It’s not practical to go home and come back. So we want to give them options where they are.” The 400-seat gathering spot will be one of many retailers in Howard Hughes Corporation’s massive mixed-use redevelopment project across from Merriweather Post Pavilion.

The Choptank: You might have noticed the glowing archway that now towers over the entrance to the south shed of Baltimore’s historic Broadway Market in Fells Point. But that’s certainly not all that’s new and shiny about the property. After several years of planning and nine months of construction, Atlas Restaurant Group has transformed the 222-year-old building into classic Maryland crab house concept, The Choptank, which is slated to officially open to the public by the end of next week. Former Brewer’s Art and Maggie’s Farm chef Andrew Weinzirl will head up the kitchen, offering his own spin on classics like crab soup, pit beef sandwiches, boardwalk fries, and Eastern Shore fried chicken. Of course, hard shells will also be an important part of the hyper-local program. Curated by local designer Patrick Sutton, the renovated spot features light woods, a large centerpiece bar, and a massive outdoor patio equipped with lounge seating and recreational games.

NEWS

Local Spots Nominated by Bon Appetit: Earlier this week, we were delighted to see four Charm City restaurants named on yet another national list. Bon Appetit magazine has included local newcomers Le Comptoir du Vin, Fadensonnen, Larder, and Sophomore Coffee among the 50 Best New Restaurants in the country. In the piece, deputy editor Julia Kramer notes that she loved Socle—Lane Harlan’s shared food-and-drink complex in Old Goucher that houses Fadensonnen, Larder, and Sophomore Coffee—so much, that she couldn’t choose just one spot between the trio of like-minded businesses. She also challenges readers to “try and find a more charming French bistro and natural wine bar,” than our own Le Comptoir du Vin in Station North. The list of 50 contenders will soon be narrowed down to 10 finalists and published on September 17.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/13: Well Crafted Kitchen’s $1 Slice Party
A few years back, Well Crafted Kitchen celebrated the first anniversary of its brick-oven pizza truck by slinging $1 slices for friends and customers. Now, the owners are ringing in the one-year anniversary of their stall inside Union Collective by continuing that exact tradition. Stop by Union’s outdoor beer garden on Friday night to indulge in $1 slices from 6-10 p.m. While you’re at it, grab a pint from the taproom, and end the night on a sweet note with a signature scoop from The Charmery just down the hall.

ONGOING: The Helmand Offers Three Courses for $30
Throughout the past three decades, The Helmand owners Quayum and Pat Karzai have served their authentic Afghani dishes to tons of loyal patrons in Mt. Vernon. Many things have changed about the neighborhood since the grand opening in 1989, but the Karzais’ signature recipes and commitment to hospitality have remained key components of the restaurant’s ethos. Leading up its official 30-year anniversary on October 23, The Helmand will offer a special three-course menu for $30. Celebrate with classics like the banjan borani (pan-fried eggplant), mantwo (pastry filled with onions and beef) and kaddo borwani (baby pumpkin pan fried and baked in garlic and yogurt).

SHUT

Blaze Pizza: As the Inner Harbor dining scene has expanded with new destinations including Blackwall Hitch and Bon Fresco, it has also seen a number of concepts shutter recently. On the heels of Poke World’s closure near Power Plant Live, Blaze Pizza has also closed its doors at 600 East Pratt Street. Fans of the DIY chain, which is known for its customizable pies that bake in a hearth oven in just three minutes, will be happy to hear that they can get their fix at a new Blaze location that opened in the Towson Commons development on York Road earlier this summer.

Canèla: Upper Fells Point locals were saddened to hear that this Mediterranean cafe and coffee shop had closed its doors last week. In a message posted to Facebook, co-owner Kfir Catalan explained that he and business partner Michele Mavias are closing the cafe to the public, but plan to remain open for private events for the time being. “This has been an amazing ride and we want to thank everyone for the support,” the announcement reads. Fusing the owners’ Italian and Israeli influences, Canèla offered standout sandwiches and a coffee program that quickly became a favorite among locals.

It all began with a love story in Washington D.C. in 1970, when 22-year-old Qayum Karzai was living in a building near DuPont Circle. He befriended his landlord’s daughter, Patricia Morgan, who helped him learn English. Qayum was so smitten with 19-year-old Pat, he paid his rent—all $81 of it—in ones, just to extend the time he spent in her presence.

Seemingly, they were from different worlds. She hailed from Pittsburgh, and he was from Afghanistan, where his father held a powerful position in parliament. On their first date, he took her to a Lebanese restaurant, where she ordered the fried chicken. “I mention it whenever I can,” says Qayum with a loving laugh. “He never let me forget it,” she says. “I didn’t even know it was a date.”

Though she’d grown up eating kielbasa, pierogies, and other Polish specialties, she hadn’t been exposed to the foods of the Middle East. “I never liked okra or eggplant or lamb,” she recalls, “but after tasting the way he prepared it, it changed my mind and opened me up to trying other foods.”

He also opened her up to the idea that he was interested in continuing to date her. By 1973, they were married. (Son Helmand joined the family in 1979, followed by daughter Ariana in 1986.)

On an early September night, against the backdrop of Afghani artifacts (a kulchi traditional Afghani dress hung on the wall, a collection of teapots, a family heirloom rug) and candlelit tables dressed with white linens, the Karzais reminisce about their 30 years at The Helmand in Mount Vernon.

Their first Helmand, named for the longest river in Afghanistan where Qayum and his siblings were born and raised, was actually in Chicago.

Qayum came to America to Lakeland Air Force Base in San Antonio, Texas in late 1968, then transferred to Vance Air Force Base in southern Oklahoma in 1970, while working for the Afghani Air Force. He had hoped to pursue a career in medicine, but his dreams were dashed after being diagnosed with vertigo.

In the years that followed, he drove to D.C., where he eventually enrolled at American University to study political science and economics, while also working as a busboy and server on the side. Qayum worked for several high-end spots, including D.C.’s Devil’s Fork, where he met power players and politicians. Eventually, he and some of his siblings made their way to Chicago and opened their first Helmand in 1984. His sister, Fouzia Royan, and her husband were the managers until the business closed in 1995.

“On our first night in Chicago, we opened at five, and by seven o’clock we had run out of food,” recalls Qayum.

By 1989, Qayum was back in the Mid-Atlantic, where he decided to bring Afghani food to Baltimore. He first considered a space in Fells Point across from the Broadway Market and also a spot in the Inner Harbor near what’s now Port Discovery, but ultimately settled on a 100-year-old former carriage house at 806 N. Charles Street. On October 23, on a rainy and cold Monday—with Tio Pepe, Donna’s, and The Prime Rib as neighbors—The Helmand first opened for dinner service.

“I sat outside looking at the street,” says Qayum. “I sat facing the window and no one was out there, no one was walking on the sidewalk.” But Chicago, with it’s many Michelin-starred and James Beard Award-winning spots is a real restaurant town, and Qayum was convinced that if The Helmand could make it there, it could make it anywhere.

Of course, it didn’t hurt that they had a connections. Thanks to their landlord’s mother, a well-connected socialite, the place was packed by the weekend. “She said, ‘I will give you a Who’s Who of Baltimore list, and you invite them,” says Qayum, “and that’s what we did.”

Prior to working for the restaurant—as well as their other properties including Tapas Teatro, Pen & Quill, Helmand Kabobi, and the now-defunct B, a Bolton Hill Bistro—Pat worked in the insurance industry. When Qayum left in December 2001 to work for his brother, Hamid, then the interim leader of Afghanistan who later became president for nearly a decade, Pat went to work in restaurants full-time.

“Coming from an insurance background, no one is going to tell you what you should do about insurance,” says Pat. “The first thing I noticed in the restaurant business is that everyone wants to tell you what to do and how to do it—the public has so much input.”

On this night, that’s a good thing.

At a nearby table, Qayum looks over at an older couple and remarks that he recognizes them. “They’ve been customers here for a long time,” he says, and later goes over to greet them. On their way out, the couple stops back to say good-bye. “‘We can’t believe you recognized us,” says the woman. “We haven’t been here in 15 years. Our hair wasn’t even gray back then.’”

That’s how it goes at The Helmand, it’s a warm and inviting place that beckons back.

Now, over a feast of aromatic dishes—many of which have been on the menu since day one—including aushak (ravioli with leeks), banjan borani (pan-fried eggplant), seekh kabob (charbroiled lamb), kaddo borwani (baby pumpkin pan fried and baked in garlic and yogurt), mantwo (pastry filled with onions and beef), koufta challow (lamb and beef meatballs), Pat and Qayum break naan together and take a moment to reflect on the traditions and most memorable moments from the past 30 years.

None of the recipes are written down.

“In Chicago, my sister in law’s sister was an extraordinary cook, so they developed these ethnically perfect recipes—but they didn’t write things down,” says Pat. “That was the hardest thing trying to replicate the food he cooked or my mother in law cooked. It was a handful of this and a handful of that all done by feel.”

Shareable meals are key.

“Share everything,” advises Qayum. “For your first visit, I’d tell you to order a pumpkin and a banjan eggplant and a small basket of bread. Don’t ask for the bread first, you need to dip it in the appetizers. For entrees, order the Kabuli challow and Kofta Pallow and a side of sabzy [spinach]. Save room for the cardamom ice cream.”

The famous pumpkin appetizer.

“We’ve gotten our pumpkins from the same farm, Sharp’s at Waterford Farms, in Howard County since we opened,” says Pat.

All dishes are authentic Afghani—except for one.

“We don’t have a dish that you wouldn’t find in Afghanistan, says Qayum.” Except for one, says Pat. “After 2001, we decided to go ahead and have chocolate cake for dessert. I said, ‘If America can be in Afghanistan, we can have chocolate cake in this restaurant. Everyone was asking for chocolate cake after dinner.”

Three of the servers, including Qayum’s cousin and manager, Assad, have worked at The Helmand since the day it opened.

David, Assad, and Sadiq have been here from the very beginning,” says Pat. “David is from El Salvador and when he first got here, he barely spoke any English.” Says David, “I love it here. Why would I go anywhere else?”

Hospitality is a code of honor.

“Hospitality is so important in Afghanistan that when you have a guest, whether it’s someone that you know or don’t know, and they come into the space, everyone is there to accommodate them to give them beverages and lots of food,” says Pat. “It’s very dishonorable if you don’t overwhelm them with food and service. For Qayum and Assad and the other servers, it’s just part of who they are.”

Sometimes that custom can go a little far.

Qayum laughs when he recalls a day when the urinal backed up at his Chicago location. He told his sister, who worked at the restaurant, to expect a plumber. “When I got there I said, ‘Is the plumber here? She said, ‘yes,’ he’s already seated—and there he was seated at a table with the plunger next to him on the floor.”

The 60-second rule.

“Acknowledge that someone has come into the space,” says Qayum. “That’s the key. It doesn’t matter who it is. It can be the busboy. When you go to the table there’s a 60-second rule for someone to come over and acknowledge you, even if it’s not the waiter.”

Forget about the food.

“Don’t assume that you have the best food,” says Qayum. “People are not coming for the food. People are coming in to leave the day behind.”

Memories of 9/11.

“After 9/11, we decided to open the same day,” says Pat. “And he wasn’t in the country, he was in Rome at the time, he was there to persuade the previous king to return to Afghanistan. He said, ‘We should open,’ and people came in. People came in and said, ‘We’re so surprised, you’re open but we’re so happy you’re open and we’re coming to show our support.’”

10-year-streak.

“We had one customer, Mr. Witherspoon who came every day—he never missed a meal. He always sat at the same table—B-5, bar five. The days that he would not come either I or Assad would call him and say, ‘Where are you?’ We’d say, ‘Can we bring you the food?’ And we did.”

Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night…

“We’ve never closed for business,” says Qayum. “Not even in a blizzard.”

OPEN

Gangster Vegan Organics: A franchise of Gangster Vegan Organics will open in Cross Street Market on August 23. The menu will include items that are organic, unprocessed, raw, soy, and gluten-free. The spot is owned by husband-wife duo, James and Taneea Yarborough. Taneea is a survivor of ovarian cancer who switched to a plant-based diet as part of her wellness regime.

FOOD NEWS

Ekiben Pop-Up at Fadensonnen: Steve Chu and his business partner Ephrem Abibe at Ekiben are launching a new Taiwanese noodle bar pop-up at Lane Harlan’s Fadensonnen in Old Goucher every Wednesday, for the next six weeks. The new project is called Ojichan, which means grandad in Japanese. Look for handmade wheat noodles with ground pork, scallions, and soy egg. The noodles are served cold to retain their bouncy texture and served with a warm broth. “Ephrem and I had a hankering for the super bouncy noodles we had in Taiwan, but couldn’t find in America, so we decided to make them,” said Chu on his Instagram page. The announcement of the pop-up led one Instagrammer to comment, “You guys are public servants.”

New Beer Garden: A beer garden is planned for the 108-year-old American Ice Building at 2100 West Franklin Street in West Baltimore. The space will include an events area and art hub under a proposed $18.7 million project, according to the Baltimore Business Journal. “It is a diamond in the rough,” Washington D.C. developer Ilay Alter recently told the BBJ. Alter has partnered with local developer Bill Struever who has rehabbed many area industrial sites including the Woodberry-Hampden area of Baltimore, where Woodberry Kitchen is now located. Alter opened a similar such space the Dacha Beer Garden on a vacant lot in D.C.’s Adams Morgan neighborhood in 2013.

Tapas Teatro: The beloved tapas spot in Station North is undergoing a renovation. A new bar area will create more space for a communal table, larger parties, and a new look.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/25: La Cuchara Farm Dinner with the Maryland Farmers Market Association and Hex Ferments

La Cuchara is hosting a farmer’s market dinner in conjunction with the Maryland Farmers Market Association and Hex Ferments on Sunday, from 5-8 p.m. Dinner will include a map of the Saturday and Sunday Baltimore farmers markets showing where some of the ingredients for the meal are sourced from. Hex Ferments will provide cocktail pairings and a portion of proceeds will support the Maryland Market Money program, which provides matching dollars to low-income families who use their benefit at area farmers markets.

7/25: Col Bol Pop-Up at Grind House Juice Bar

Chef Carleen Goodridge of Le Monade will host a pop up called Col Bol, which means “cold bowl.” The event will take place this Sunday at 11 a.m. at Grind House Juice Bar on Saint Paul’s Street. Carleen is honoring her Liberian heritage with dishes like eggplant stew and cassava leaf and plantain porridge.

7/29: Chez Hugo Collaborates with Sacré Sucré

Chez Hugo Bistro will collaborate with Sacré Sucré pastry studio for a six-course tasting menu with all things sweet and savory. Each kitchen will present three courses. Look for dishes such as a blackberry crisp tuile with buckwheat cream, candied beets, and preserved summer fruit and fromage blanc and corn cheesecake with cornbread crumbs, pepper jam, fermented honey, and glazed fresh corn. The cost of the tasting menu is $50. The event runs from 7-9 p.m.

Happy Birthday to You!

Area restaurants celebrate big numbers.

City Café turns 25 on Sept. 4.

The Helmand turns 30 this fall.

Mt. Washington Tavern kicks off its 40 years in business celebration this November.

Showcasing everything from French and Italian eats to Afghani and Senagalese fare, Baltimore is a hub for authentic foreign cuisines. This year’s Summer Restaurant Week gives you the chance to try something new for a bargain, in your own backyard.

The around-the-world theme has invaded the food and drink scene (even inspiring local bar crawls with drinks inspired by different countries), and now, you can feel well-traveled even if you’ve never left Maryland.

“Restaurant Week gives ethnic restaurants an avenue to show the cuisine of the motherland in front of an audience that may be reluctant to try something unfamiliar,” says Miguel Angel Sanz, co-owner of longtime Spanish fixture Tio Pepe’s. “They may find out that what they thought was strange is not particularly so, and that such a restaurant may be perfectly appropriate for a birthday or an anniversary.”

For this summer’s annual dining-out promotion—returning August 2-11—diners are invited to enjoy two-course brunch and lunch menus ranging from $12-20, and three-course dinner menus ranging from $20-$35. If you’re hoping to get a taste of international cuisine while saving money on plane tickets, here are a few highlights worth exploring.

Italian: Sotto Sopra Restaurant
This Mt. Vernon mainstay is an ideal place to experience Italian cuisine like you are in the heart of Rome. Housed in a 19th-century building on North Charles Street since 1996, the spot will offer a two-course lunch for $15 or a three-course dinner for $35 with valet parking available for an additional $10. Your choices seem almost limitless, with snail ragout, pappardelle with smoked mozzarella, a watermelon caprese salad, and frutti di mare headlining the menu. Top your dinner off with one of six dessert options to complete your journey to Italy. $15-35

American: The Alexander Brown Restaurant
Pursuing the American dream, Alexander Brown emigrated from Ireland to Baltimore in the late 1700s. His family established themselves in the city and even funded the Baltimore-Ohio Railroad, as well as Baltimore’s first public water system. Become a part of their legacy by indulging in a fine dining experience, within a breathtaking Baltimore landmark. For Restaurant Week, it offers a two-course lunch featuring crab beignets and fried chicken sandwich. $20

French: Chez Hugo Bistro
This addition to the restaurant scene has held a special place in our hearts since opening around Valentine’s Day in 2018. Guests can expect a casual French bistro atmosphere, perfect for enjoying a pleasant meal with great company. For Restaurant Week, you’ll find an authentic, three-course French dinner with options such as niçoise salade, grilled monkfish, and banane et chocolat. $35

Japanese: Matsuri Japanese Restaurant
Get a taste of Japan with Matsuri’s three-course lunch or dinner. Open in Federal Hill since 1996, the restaurant is owner Bill Tien’s homage to Japanese cuisine in Baltimore. The award-winning spot will serve traditional dishes like miso soup, spicy tuna rolls, and Japanese mochi ice cream. $15-30

Afgani: The Helmand
The Helmand has not only helped introduce Afghani cuisine to Baltimore, but also nationwide. The restaurant was named after the owner’s first born son, as well as the famed Helmand River that runs through the predominantly dry country of Afghanistan. First established in 1989, it is celebrating 20 years by featuring Restaurant Week dishes such as kabobs, simmered lamb, and naan. $35

Greek: The Black Olive
The fine-dining fish tavern in Fells Point transports you to Northern Greece. Make no mistake, the prices are low, but the atmosphere is elevated. Take part in a fancy date and enjoy either a three-course lunch or dinner for $20-35. The menu offers a variety of Greek classics such as Mediterranean sea bass, heirloom tomato salad, and grilled sardines in grape leaves. $20-35

Spanish: Tio Pepe’s
With a complete menu of fine Spanish cuisine and an extensive wine list, Tio Pepe’s is a great option for date night or family celebrations. If you’ve never had Spanish or Mediterranean food, you’re in for a treat with a two-course lunch or three-course dinner. Try traditional dishes such as paella a la valenciana, gazpacho a la andaluza, and flan al caramelo. $15-35

Mexican: La Calle
La Calle, which translates to “the street” in Spanish, mixes deep-rooted Mexican traditions with modern culinary fundamentals. The masa, as well as the sauces that use local Maryland and indigenous Mexican ingredients, are all made in an open-style Baltimore kitchen. Choose between a $15 three-course lunch or a $35 three-course dinner that comes with a complimentary margarita. Some of the options featured include tacos, torta de pollo, and a Pipian Verde dish of pork loin and rice. $15-35