There’s nothing people love more than a pleasant surprise. And that’s exactly what Lewisburg, West Virginia, is—a small town with big charm in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains and only a five-hour drive from Baltimore, with every minute worth it for a true getaway from city life, even if only for a long weekend.

In fact, Lewisburg was once described by Budget Travel as “America’s coolest small town,” on top of many other superlatives from the likes of Thrillist and Travel+Leisure.

Situated on the Greenbrier River and surrounded by forest, it unfurls like a mini oasis, offering countless delights to visitors—art galleries, antique stores, acclaimed restaurants, and an abundance of cultural institutions. Best of all, it’s a year-round draw, with annual events ranging from April’s Chocolate Festival to August’s Literary Festival to October’s Taste of Our Towns. It’s no wonder the town is becoming more popular with new residents and visitors alike. (Honestly, we hope it doesn’t become too popular.)

The bottom line: Don’t let any preconceived notions about West Virginia fool you. Upon entering the Mountain State, the first thing you might see is a welcome sign hailing this countryside as “wild and wonderful.” As you make your way to Lewisburg ideally with John Denver’s “Take Me Home, Country Roads” on blast—it’s hard not to agree.

AN EARLY RETREAT

On our most recent visit, we drove out of Baltimore, around Washington, D.C., and through the rolling hills of Virginia, then over the state line into Greenbrier County.

Incorporated in 1778, it is one of the oldest counties in West Virginia, and it was in those early days that the grand Greenbrier Resort first opened as an aristocratic vacationland in White Sulphur Springs. Just 10 miles east of Lewisburg, it’s a requisite pit-stop for local landmark history on the way to your final destination.

An easy train ride from Washington, D.C. (and once owned by the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway), the Greenbrier has long been a respite for guests coming from the urban epicenters of the Mid-Atlantic. That easy access helped draw a well-heeled clientele of politicians, celebrities, and other notable personas.

After World War II, New York society darling and interior designer Dorothy Draper was enlisted to reinvigorate the property, bringing a bright, colorful, maximalist aesthetic that remains today.

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Greenbrier still offers old-glam, five-star lodgings—some 710 resorts, 64 cottages, and six estates, to be exact—and then some. These days, there is also an on-site casino, golf course, bowling alley, all-ages arcade, and even “bunker tours” of its once-top-secret Cold War fallout shelters, said to have been created by President Eisenhower and reserved for Commanders-in-Chief.

Much as it was in the 18th century, the resort continues to be a wellness destination, with the region’s cool mountain air providing a reprieve from the heat and humidity of cities, and its natural springs full of mineral-rich water, said to be soothing for arthritis, stress, and other ailments. Today, the luxury spa offers everything from signature soaks to salt-cave treatments, massages, and meditation.

Walk the grounds, breathe in the medicinal air, then move on down the road for the less grandiose but equally gratifying charm of Lewisburg.

TOWN & COUNTRY

Less than 10 miles from the Greenbrier, the Midland Trail Byway, aka Route 60, eventually turns into the tiny town of Lewisburg. Originally established as an outpost in the 1750s by its namesake surveyor, Andrew Lewis, it’s located a stone’s throw from the Greenbrier River, which flows wide and splendid.

Officially laid out in 1780, the town of Lewisburg largely consists of two thoroughfares, Washington and Jefferson streets. Charming houses and eclectic businesses abound, and walking around is the best way to explore them, as well as their array of architectural styles.

It’s a small downtown—population 3,800—but on every street corner, there is a strong sense of community and creative spirit, plus a welcoming attitude toward out-of-towners.

In the springtime, just be sure to stop and smell the red begonias. In a tradition that dates back decades, the town’s unofficial flower will be hanging from streetlights and garden fences throughout the warm-weather season.

ARTS + HISTORY

For those initially lured to Lewisburg by the Greenbrier, there might be history buffs in tow. Luckily for them, the town’s Historic Landmarks Commission has created a self-led walking tour for the many notable local sites.

The route is available online, as well as via a complimentary printed map that can be picked up at the Greenbrier Valley Visitors Center. Highlights include one of Industrial Revolution tycoon Andrew Carnegie’s four Carnegie Halls, which, as in New York City, hosts live performances and rotating exhibits, like their outdoor concert series throughout the summer.

Also worth visiting is the North House Museum and Archives, where exhibitions, lectures, and a research library are on hand for inquisitive visitors.

A less likely time warp can be found at Flanagan’s Barbershop, whose circa-1860 building has continuously housed a hair-cuttery since the turn of the 20th century. With two old-school swivel chairs, you can still get a snip or a shave today.

As the local Carnegie indicates, even all the way out here, there’s no dearth of arts and culture. Another historic site gets a modern twist at the circa-1939 Lewis Theatre, a vaudeville stage turned modernized space with retro film screenings, dance performances, and live music.

Meanwhile, the Greenbrier Valley Theatre, now in its 57th season, serves as the state professional theater of West Virginia. Across town, multiple galleries also showcase art on display and for sale, like Paragon Fine Art, with rotating exhibitions, and the Lee Street Studios artist collective. Housed in a historic elementary school, the latter fittingly hosts on-site classes, from watercolor painting to woodworking, as well as community events.

QUAINT COMMERCE

Looking to take home a memento other than an artistic masterpiece? A bevy of shops is another boon downtown. Fun fact: Many of the businesses are owned and operated by women, like The Golden Rabbit, an eclectic boutique run by art dealer Adrienne French, whose curated selection includes antiques, jewelry, and home goods, from Tiffany lamps to originals by modernist artist Eva Zeisel.

So far from the ocean, you won’t be surprised to learn that, across the street at the Lewisburg Surf Shop, there are no boards in sight, but instead a luxury goods mecca that would be as much at home on Melrose or Madison avenue. Run by fashion industry veteran and Lewisburg native Meredith German, this itty-bitty boutique is home to clothing brands ike Marni, Saint James, and Proenza Schouler.

More clothing can be found at Cat and Kate, a mother-daughter-owned shop with lots of colorful womenswear and gifts. Meanwhile, Istanbul designer Cybele Bo’s Cybele stocks one-of-a-kind, handmade accessories, while Wolf Creek runs a longstanding store that’s stuffed floor-to-ceiling with boho-chic clothing.

For something a bit more literary, the independent New Chapter Bookstore is a bookworm’s must, featuring bindings for all ages. Be sure to check their calendar for the next Scrabble Night or Book Club.

And if you didn’t scratch that antique itch? Collectors are covered, thanks to multiple establishments selling second-hand treasures of every variety. Find them at Robert’s, Brick House, and Patina, to name a few.

EDIBLE DELIGHTS

After all that shopping, it’s easy to work up an appetite. For both real foodies and fans of comfort-food-style Southern cuisine, Lewisburg has a plethora of options all within strolling distance, many of which place an emphasis on local ingredients.

At The French Goat, guests can slowly peruse the elegant menu of this European-inspired, farm-to-table bistro, voted best fine dining and best brunch by WV Living Magazine. We recommend indulging in duck confit and truffle frites.

Around the corner in a converted 19th-century stable, The Livery Tavern also offers sophisticated dining, founded on a bedrock of local steak, plus hints of Creole and Indian flavors. Come for a meal but stay for craft cocktails, using regional spirits, beers, and ciders, mostly made in West Virginia.

For something more casual, the RNCVRT bakery, located a short drive south of town, sells sweet gluten-free treats, healthful salads, and local coffee from Cherry River Roasting Company.

Back at Stardust Cafe downtown, an eco-friendly approach imbues every aspect of lunch and dinner, which means they use everything from fair-trade ingredients to biodegradable packaging. Go for fresh pastas, a signature burger (using Lewisburg beef, of course), and a well-curated wine list.

The Bavarian-inspired Briergarten also shines with a selection of house brewed beers and casual noshes like pretzels and bratwursts, while Thunderbird Taco slings Tex-Mex cuisine with a West Virginia twist, featuring meat and produce from area farms. We especially like the black bean burrito with homemade buttermilk crema and slaw.

Pack some provisions for a hike or the trip home from Bella, a corner shop crafting cheese plates and charcuterie boards, with picnic baskets available for purchase. Also peruse their shelves that showcase specialty ingredients like Momofuku chili crunch, Starlino cocktail cherries, and West Virginia’s own J.Q. Dickinson salts, made up the road in Malden.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

After singing the praises of Lewisburg’s quaint charms, we want to direct you away from town. After all, more than three-quarters of the Mountain State is—you guessed it—covered in woodland, from the Greenbrier State Forest located just outside of town to plenty of other impressive state and national parks within a short driving distance.

At the former, some 5,000 acres of wild land offer endless ways to hike, bike, swim, fish, and camp. For the amenity-inclined, there’s even a heated pool open from Memorial Day through Labor Day. That said, for outdoor enthusiasts, it’s also an ideal starting point for the 78-mile Greenbrier River Trail, a former railroad path now paved for leisurely strolls, fast-paced biking, and even horseback riding.

Further afield, to the north, the southern-most tip of the massive Monongahela National Forest offers a biodiverse treasure trove of flora and fauna, plus hiking trails, creek-side camping, and places to paddle.

Back near the Virginia line, the 1.8-million-acre George Washington & Jefferson National Forest is an even larger landscape, home to lush groves of old-growth trees, mountain streams, and picturesque peaks as far as the eye can see.

Trudging out to your car in the Monday morning freeze, slush in your boots, the sun peeking wanly over the horizon, it’s easy to forget that winter provides incredible opportunities for adrenaline-pumping recreation. While Mid-Atlantic skiing is admittedly a different experience than, say, hitting the slopes in Aspen or Sun Valley, the freedom to schuss down a mountain (regardless of its size) just a few hours later is yet another feather (or pom-pom) in Baltimore’s (ski) hat.

What follows is a list of our favorite ski resorts within a day’s drive of Charm City, encompassing spots in West Virginia, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Maryland. So the next time you’re scraping the ice off your windshield and feel a Jerry Lundegaard-in-Fargo-style meltdown coming on, take a deep breath, focus on the weekend, and throw your skis in the car. It’s go time.

Blue Knob All Seasons Resort

1424 Overland Pass, Claysburg, Pa., 814-239-5111
Drive time: 2 hours, 50 minutes

The highest skiable mountain in Pennsylvania’s scenic Allegheny range, Blue Knob offers 34 trails and plenty of long rides for skiers and snowboarders of all abilities, with a vertical drop of 1,072 feet. The resort also gets high marks for its advanced glade trails—aka off-trail and defined woods trails. In addition, the resort boasts a ski school for beginners and advanced skiers and snowboarders alike, as well as a snow tubing park.

Canaan Valley Resort

230 Main Lodge Rd., Davis, WV, 800-622-4121.
Drive time: 3 hours, 45 minutes

A skiing destination for some 70 years and the site of West Virginia’s first commercial ski development, Canaan Valley Resort receives roughly 180 inches of annual snowfall. Skiers and snowboarders have nearly 50 trails to choose from, but there’s a lot more to do too, including outdoor ice-skating, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing. There’s also a 1,200-foot snow tubing park worth tackling, especially with the kids.

Liberty Mountain Resort

78 Country Club Trail, Carroll Valley, Pa., 717-642-8282.
Drive time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

Given its proximity to Baltimore, just over the Frederick County line, Liberty Mountain is a place where generations of local new skiers have made their first downhill run. With an elevation of nearly 1,200 feet and a vertical drop of 600 feet, the nearby resort offers 16 trails and two terrain parks serviced by eight lifts—all lit for night skiing and snowboarding, with full snow-making coverage. Check the Ski and Ride School, too.

Massanutten Resort

1822 Resort Dr., Massanutten, Va., 540-289-9441.
Drive time: 3 hours, 15 minutes

Built in the Shenandoah Valley more than 50 years ago, Massanutten offers 23 runs and seven lifts spread over 90 skiable acres, with a  peak elevation of nearly 3,000 feet. Freestyle snowboarders and skiers will appreciate one of the best parks around—boasting a dozen rails and jumps—while beginner freestylers can get started in the resort’s “Easy Street” terrain park. The snowmaking infrastructure recently got a boost, too.

The Omni Homestead

7696 Sam Snead Hwy., Hot Springs, VA, 800-838-1766.
Drive time: 4 hours, 30 minutes

This historic luxury hotel is more renowned for its famous guest list, which includes several presidents, and its legendary golf course—note the address here—than its skiing. That said, the iconic Homestead is an ideal destination for families and novice skiers and snowboarders, with its laid-back, well-sculpted, and gentle terrain. Along with its nine trails over 45 acres, there’s also a snow-tubing park next to the slopes and mini snowmobile track for kids.

Roundtop Mountain Resort

925 Roundtop Road, Lewisberry, Pa., 717-432-9631.
Drive time: 1 hour, 20 min

As it’s a direct shot up I-83, newbie and intermediate skiers and snowboarders can quickly reach Roundtop’s slopes for a weekend, weekday, or even weeknight getaway. The whole mountain, which includes 21 trails, nine lifts, and snowtubing, is covered by snowmaking equipment. Roundtop is also a part of the Vail Resorts network, meaning a season pass can be purchased that includes skiing at Whitetail, Liberty, and dozens of other resorts.

Seven Springs Mountain Resort

777 Waterwheel Dr., Seven Springs, Pa., 800-452-2223.
Drive time: 3 hours, 20 minutes

With a diverse collection of 33 trails descending from a 2,994- foot mountain, plus another seven terrain parks, Seven Springs remains one of the most popular resorts in the area. Also, if you don’t ski but want to chill with friends who do on a weekend trip, this is the place. Seven Springs offers live music on weekends, bowling, roller-skating, indoor mini-golf, snowshoe and snowmobile tours, tubing, an indoor pool, fitness center, hot tubs, and loads of dining options.

Snowshoe Mountain Resort

10 Snowshoe Drive, Snowshoe, WV, 877-441-4386
Drive time: 5 hours

With 60-plus trails and glades plus four terrain parks divvied up among three distinct ski areas over more than 240 skiable acres, Snowshoe may be a trek, but it’s worth the drive. With an elevation of 4,848 feet and a vertical drop of 1,500 feet, Snowshoe is one of the area’s largest resorts and it presents some of the best skiing south of Vermont. A genuine destination resort with all the amenities, Snowshoe also offers more than a dozen restaurants and a nightclub.

Timberline Mountain

254 Four Seasons Dr., Davis, WV, 304-403-2074
Drive time: 3 hours, 40 minutes

There’s a lot to love about tiny Davis, West Virginia, which is re nowned for its mountainbiking, and that includes Timberline, which has seen significant capital investment in recent years. The ski area’s claim to fame is its high elevation—and thus its big amount of annual snow. It also has a 3.12-mile run—plus two double black diamond runs, rare in this region. Overall, it offers 37 trails
across 100 skiable acres.

Whitetail Resort

13805 Blairs Valley Road, Mercersburg, PA, 717-328-9400
Drive time: 1 hour, 35 minutes.

Along with Roundtop and Liberty, Whitetail completes the trio of family-friendly, low-hassle resorts, just over the Pennsylvania line and 90 minutes from the Baltimore Beltway. The top elevation here is 1,800 feet, with a descent which supports 23 trails and two terrain parks—all serviced by 100-percent snowmaking coverage. Recent upgrades include a snow-tubing park, an expanded lodge, and as of 2019, a liquor license.

Wintergreen Resort

Route 664, Wintergreen, VA, 434-325-2200
Drive time: 3 hours, 40 minutes.

Nestled deep into Virginia’s wine country down the Blue Ridge Parkway, the mountain here has an elevation of 3,515 feet with a vertical drop of 1,003 feet. Wintergreen is a year-round resort with luxury accommodations that offers skiing and snowboarding across 129 skiable acres with five chairlifts—including two high-speed lifts—24 trails and a terrain park continually reshaped for new challenges.

Wisp Resort

296 Marsh Hill Road, McHenry, MD, 301-859-3159
Drive time: 3 hours.

Located in the Deep Creek Lake area of Garrett County, Wisp is Maryland’s only ski resort, but with a 3,115- foot elevation and 172 skiable acres, it more than holds its own in the region. Twelve  chairlifts and seven surface lifts take skiers and snowboarders to a mix of 33 beginner, intermediate, and advanced trails and three freestyle parks. Plus, there’s tubing, iceskating, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing—something for everyone, in other words—at this year-round resort.

While we aim to spread peace and goodwill during the holiday season, a home full of visiting family and bored kids on winter vacation can quickly bring out the worst in even the best hosts. When you’ve run out of things to do at home (we get it—you can only watch so many Hallmark Channel movies), break the cabin fever and get the whole crew out of the house. Crisp, sunny days call for a walk through nature, and area gardens and conservancies like the Eastern Shore’s Adkins Arboretum or Harpers Ferry National Historic Park in West Virginia more than deliver.

While many are more popular in the spring and summer months when foliage is in full bloom, winter offers a different—and sometimes better—perspective, like at the Wolf Sanctuary of PA in Lititz, where animals are most active in colder temperatures. Don’t let bad weather hold you back, either. The anticipation of sampling a hot, crisp potato chip straight off the factory line will get even the most skeptical kids into the car on a gloomy day for a tour of Southern Pennsylvania’s Utz Factory. Or explore the Main Streets of historic Middleburg, Virginia, which amp up their signature small-town charm with holiday décor. The best part? All 10 of these family-approved winter adventures are within a 2-hour drive from Baltimore.

Catch a Glimpse

A guided tour of the Wolf Sanctuary of PA (465 Speedwell Forge Rd., Lititz, PA, 717-626-4617) gives visitors an inside look into the daily lives and unique personalities of the more than 40 wolves (and wolf-dogs) who have found a home at this 80-plus-acre wooded property in Pennsylvania Dutch country. What started as a private rescue more than 30 years ago has evolved into a nonprofit educational center that provides food, shelter, and veterinary care to wolves who couldn’t survive in nature. (The creatures are exceedingly rare, as wild wolves haven’t lived in the Keystone State for more than 100 years.)

Strap on your hiking boots, and in less than 2 hours, you’ll be in awe of the raw power and grace of animals such as Sir Bear, a fluffy grey-and-white wolf with golden eyes who was rescued from a private zoo. For the chance to see all the packs, book a private tour in advance.

If birds of prey are more your style, pack binoculars and head to the Conowingo Dam (4948 Conowingo Rd., Conowingo, 410-457-5011), which attracts more than 100 bald eagles throughout the fall and winter. The spot on the Susquehanna River is well known among bird watchers as one of the best places east of the Mississippi to spot large groups of the eagles, which come here to fish. Serious spectators gather before sunrise to stake out a prime location along the overlook railing, as the national birds feast just 30 yards away along the opposite river bank. Those interested in learning more about local wildlife should stop by the visitor center or escape the throngs of photographers by walking part of the Lower Susquehanna Heritage Greenway Trail. An improved section of the wide, flat path follows the river’s west bank for 2.2 miles, beginning at the dam parking lot and ending at the trout-filled Deer Creek.

Feed the Munchies

Got a craving for a mid-week getaway? Get those couch potatoes off the sofa and on the road for a tour of Southern Pennsylvania’s snack factories. Just an hour north across the state line, start with Snyder’s of Hanover (1350 York St., Hanover, PA, 800-233-7125), where a 30-minute guided tour walks visitors through the pretzel baking process, from the raw ingredient warehouse to the heavenly smell of the oven room. Less than a half-hour northeast in Thomasville, rival treat-toter Martin’s (5847 W. Lincoln Hwy., Thomasville, PA, 717-792-3265) offers one of the most immersive excursions in the area (if you can convince your family to don hairnets). The 45-minute tour follows the potato from truck to fryer, with salty chip samples along the way.

Balance out the savory snacks by continuing north to Hershey’s Chocolate World (101 Chocolate World Way, Hershey, PA, 717-534-4900), where you can indulge your inner Willy Wonka by creating your own chocolate bar or let the experts guide you through an equally delicious tasting. Finally, on your way home, stop at the Utz Factory (900 High St. Hanover, PA, 800-367-7629), where a small museum displays old objects such as retro tin packaging and Sallie Utz’ original potato slicer, which dates back to the 1920s. Take the stairs up to the glass observation deck to look down on the busy production floor before hitting up the nearby factory outlet on Carlisle Street to shop the brand’s full selection of flavors.

Day Trip With a View

Set on the banks of Brandywine Creek in Pennsylvania, bucolic Chadds Ford is best known for inspiring the work of a generation of early 20th-century painters and illustrators, much of which is now on display at the Brandywine River Museum of Art (1 Hoffmans Mill Rd., Chadds Ford, PA, 610-388-2700). Perched along the water’s edge, the museum houses a permanent collection that includes 19th- and 20th-century landscapes that reflect the beauty of the surrounding countryside. Most notable is the work of 20th-century realist painter Andrew Wyeth, alongside that of his father, illustrator N.C. Wyeth (revered for his early illustrations of Treasure Island and Last of the Mohicans), and his son, contemporary painter Jamie Wyeth. (Nearby, guided tours of Wyeth studios provide a more personal glimpse into the local artists’ lives.) Through January 7, nearly 2,000 feet of model train track will also take over the atrium for the beloved seasonal exhibition, A Brandywine Christmas.

For more natural wonders in the Brandywine Valley, drive 10 minutes west to Longwood Gardens (1001 Longwood Rd., Kennett Square, 610-388-1000). With nearly 400 acres accessible to the public, plan to spend three to four hours exploring the historic grounds and their outdoor gardens that range from formal to whimsical. If you get chilly, move inside the conservatory to see the Indoor Children’s Garden, designed to engage little ones with fanciful sculptures and fountains, or the iconic Orangery greenhouse, decked with poinsettias and Christmas trees during the holiday season. Through January 7, A Longwood Christmas also transforms the gardens into a festive display inspired by the splendor of France’s Versailles. Think glittering mirrors, ornate topiaries, and more than 50 decorated trees, with choreographed fountain shows, strolling carolers, and thousands of twinkling lights.

Looking for an Eastern Shore adventure? Get outside with a visit to the Adkins Arboretum (12610 Eveland Rd., Ridgely, 410-634-2847), set on 400 acres adjacent to Tuckahoe State Park. Start at the visitors center, where staff will point you to what’s in bloom or where to catch a glimpse of wildlife while helping you map out your visit. Borrow an audio guide for a 35-stop tour along the 5 miles of paths or to discover the little-known connection between the local scenery and the Underground Railroad. Kids can get their hands in the dirt at the Children’s Funshine Garden, designed with sensory education in mind, or let out some energy at the First Light Village Playspace. Made almost entirely of natural materials, this scout-built play area includes wigwams, tree stumps, and a balance beam that’s sure to tire out your young explorers before it’s time to head home.

Get Back on the Saddle

Located two hours away, the small town of Middleburg, Virginia, (population: 828) transforms into an idyllic holiday destination beginning with its all-out Christmas parade on the first Saturday of December. Walk the brick sidewalks of Washington Street, where antique shops and boutiques have made homes out of historic stone and brick buildings. On the corner of Madison Street, the Red Fox Inn & Tavern (2 E. Washington St., Middleburg, VA, 540-687-6301)—a dormered fieldstone structure trimmed with wreaths and garland—has been serving travelers since 1728. Inside at the Night Fox Pub, you can warm up with a glass of wine from one of the area’s many vineyards. Known as the nation’s horse and hunt capital, Middleburg became a destination for foxhunting and steeplechasing at the turn of the 20th century. Learn more at the National Sporting Library & Museum (102 The Plains Rd., Middleburg, VA, 540-687-6542), a research center for horse and field sports with a special exhibition (through January 14) that showcases the equine in ancient Greek art, including pottery and coins dating back centuries.

Escape to the Ice

Nothing says holiday fun quite like lacing up a pair of ice skates. Luckily, outdoor rinks pop up throughout the state starting early in the winter season. Beginning in November, families can flock to the expansive, tree-lined ice rink at Quiet Waters Park (600 Quiet Waters Park Rd., Annapolis, 410-222-1777) in Anne Arundel County, equipped with a sturdy framework for less-experienced skaters in need of training wheels. (Just be sure to bring cash or checks, as admission and skate rentals don’t accept credit cards.) At Frank J. Hutchins Memorial Park (121 St. John St., Havre de Grace, 410-638-3570) in Harford County, skaters swirl around a synthetic ice rink that’s run by a different nonprofit group each week during the holiday season in exchange for a portion of profits.

Only have a few hours to spare? You can still get the blood flowing at the Pandora Ice Rink (201 E. Pratt St., 443-743-3308) at Baltimore’s Inner Harbor through January 15, part of the annual “It’s a Waterfront Life” holiday events hosted by the Waterfront Partnership of Baltimore. The 6,000-square-foot rink is located at the top of the Harbor Amphitheater at the corner of Light and Pratt streets, beneath the shimmer of the city skyline and in view of the USS Constellation. Really looking to stretch your legs? At 7,200 square feet, the outdoor rink in the Rockville Town Square (131 Gibbs St., Rockville, 301-545-1999) plaza is the largest outdoor rink in Montgomery County, with themed nights where you can throw it back to the ’90s or spin to Michael Jackson’s greatest hits. While you’re headed toward Western Maryland, swing by Silver Spring’s outdoor rink at Veterans Plaza (8523 Fenton St., Silver Spring, 301-588-1221) with its colorfully lighted pavilion roof. (Bonus points: both rinks remain open through March.)

Step Back in Time

Historic Harpers Ferry—known for its role in the Civil War and as the midpoint of the Appalachian Trail—is on the easternmost edge of West Virginia, where it borders both Virginia and Maryland at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers. This tiny town—spread over little more than a half square mile—features a quaint Lower Town neighborhood that turns green from late November to early January with evergreen garlands and festive wreaths throughout its winding streets. Dive into history at the John Brown Wax Museum (168 High St., Harpers Ferry, WV, 304-535-6342), which follows the tale of an area abolitionist who led a raid on the town’s arsenal in the 1850s, and discover many other landmarks from the Civil War era sprinkled throughout the town.

Harpers Ferry National Historic Park (767 Shenandoah St., Harpers Ferry, WV, 304-535-6029) is home to 20 miles of hiking trails, ranging from easy, riverside strolls to hardcore hikes across Civil War battlefields and up steep mountaintops to scenic vistas. At the Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s AT midpoint, kids can earn a “Junior Ranger” patch by completing an activity booklet, while the C&O Canal trail passes through the heart of town. If weather permits, follow the footbridge across the Potomac River to tackle the Maryland Heights Trail for panoramic views of the valley. If you’re looking to extend your trip, Shepherdstown, West Virginia, is another charming area with antique stores, craft galleries, and a historic opera house. (It is also rumored to be the most haunted town in America, inhabited by the spirits of the wounded soldiers from the Battle of Antietam.) Across the river in Sharpsburg, Maryland, that very Antietam National Battlefield (302 E. Main St., Sharpsburg, 301-432-5124) is also worth a visit.

Get Out of This World

Need an escape that transcends the DMV? Transport the family to another planet with an easy trip to the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum (600 Independence Ave. SW, Washington, D.C., 202-633-2214) on the National Mall. Kids will love How Things Fly, a hands-on exhibit where they can push, pull, and twist their way to understanding the concept of flight. Gadget-lovers shouldn’t miss a collection of Military Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (basically super-drones).

If the thought of braving D.C. tourist spots during the holidays sends your blood pressure sky-high, opt for the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center (14390 Air and Space Museum Pkwy., Chantilly, VA, 703-572-4118)—the museum’s companion facility in Northern Virginia. Its two huge hangars are home to the Space Shuttle Discovery and a super-sonic Concorde operated by Air France. You’ll also find memorabilia from the U.S. space program, such as the backpack propulsion device used to make the first untethered space walk and a collection of artifacts belonging to Charles Lindbergh, the first solo pilot to fly across the Atlantic Ocean.

Nestled between the majestic mountains of West Virginia’s Kanawha Valley and Kanawha River and just down the street from Booker T. Washington’s boyhood home, an unassuming white PVC pipe protrudes from the ground. Amidst the tall blades of grass in this verdant valley, it’s nearly invisible. The only suggestion that it might be something of note is a derrick, once used in drilling deep substratum brine, and now standing decoratively over the pipe.

This opening in the earth—a well from which brine is pulled—serves as a symbol of past and present, reaching 350 feet down toward the 500-million-year-old Iapetus Ocean. It represents the last of the local salt makers in Malden, an area once so prolific in its production that it was known as “the salt-making capital of the East,” with more than 50 salt makers in the mid-1800s and three million bushels of salt produced in a year at its height. (At the World’s Fair in 1851 in London, Kanawha salt was deemed the “best salt in the world.”)

The well sits on the property of J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works, a family-run business that hand harvests the salt trapped between layers of sandstone in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains. It also became an emblem of the company’s renewal and revival, when four years ago, the seventh generation of Dickinson family members decided to bring back the business, giving J.Q. Dickinson the distinction of being the oldest operating salt works in the state. “It’s an amazing feeling when I come to this farm every day to work,” says company co-founder Nancy Bruns, who established the business with her younger brother, Lewis Payne. “It’s like coming home. It’s being enveloped by your heritage, and it’s powerful to know that we’re doing something that’s successful based on what our ancestors did.”

On a hot, humid, overcast day—far from the ideal environment for the solar evaporation salt-making process—Bruns and Payne are hard at work on their family’s 200-year-old farm, about 10 miles from where they grew up in Charleston. Bruns is a classically trained chef who formerly owned a restaurant in Highlands, North Carolina; Payne and his wife, Paige, who also works for the business, spend summers working the land in Malden, though the Paynes live part-time in Baltimore so that their son, Davis, can attend The Odyssey School in Stevenson, while their daughter, Cameron, boards at St. Timothy’s School—Bruns’ alma mater, which is also in Stevenson.

There are other Baltimore ties, too. Though J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works is some 364 miles away, Malden counts as local when it comes to sourcing salt. From the J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works, on the site of a former garden center, 450 pounds of salt are stacked in recycled cardboard boxes bound for Baltimore. Lying in wait, behind a burlap curtain, the boxes, 25 pounds each, hold bags of salt that Woodberry Kitchen’s James Beard Award-winning chef, Spike Gjerde, will use as a key ingredient for his Snake Oil hot sauce. (In the week that follows, Bruns will make the six-hour drive to the Woodberry area to deliver the salt herself to save on shipping costs.) It is the salt that Gjerde uses exclusively at Woodberry Kitchen, Artifact Coffee, and Grand Cru. (He also uses it at Parts & Labor, though not exclusively.) In total, he buys 1,420 pounds of cooking and finishing salts a year from the company. “Over time, we’ve been able to shrink the ingredients that were from nonlocal sources at Woodberry,” says Gjerde. “But I never really dreamed we’d be able to do that with salt. Before J.Q. Dickinson, I was importing sea salt from Italy.”

While the salt is sold at some of the most celebrated kitchens in the country—Husk in Charleston, South Carolina, and The French Laundry in the Napa Valley—Baltimore is a major market for J.Q. Dickinson salt. Its finishing salts sit on the shelves at Trohv in Hampden, E.N. Olivier on Falls Road, Juniper Culinary Apothecary in the Mount Vernon Marketplace, and The Chesapeake Wine Company in Canton. The salt is also sold at MOM’s Organic Market in Hampden, as well as The Pigheaded Butcher in Timonium, and John Brown General & Butchery in Cockeysville. It’s the salt you taste when you buy a bar from Eldersburg-based Salazon Chocolate Co.

In America, there are a handful of salt makers, from Maine and Long Island to Oregon. But Dickinson salt is the only salt in the Northern Hemisphere drawn from an aquifer, which is permeable rock that has water running through it. “People ask me all the time, ‘Isn’t salt just salt? What makes yours different?’” says Bruns. “Our salt differs from other salts in the way that you think of anything else that comes from the earth. If you grow Pinot Noir grapes in California, New Zealand, or France, they’re going to taste different because of the soil and their terroir. I think of salt in the same way. Our salt is coming from underground and running through lots of rocks, and so it’s gaining all those minerals. And the minerality of our salt is different than the minerality of any other salt.”

Malden was once known as “the salt-making capital of the East” with more than 50 salt makers.

Move over Morton—sea salt is hotter than ever. (In recent years, even Wendy’s changed its fry recipe for the first time in decades, adding sea salt to the spuds.) As consumers and retailers have discovered the ways in which sea salt can elevate flavor—contributing coarseness, crunchiness, and boldness—the market has soared. The gourmet salt market is expected to reach $1,340.9 million globally by 2019, according to Markets and Markets global market research and consulting company.

Unlike salts such as Himalayan salts and Morton Salt that are mined from mountains and employ additives to keep them from caking, J.Q. Dickinson’s salt is said to be superior. “It’s pure and has young, open crystals that add a lot of crunch and flavor and make the food more interesting,” says Liz Nuttle, owner of E.N. Olivier. “The finishing salt is very special,” concurs Gjerde. “It’s distinct from any salt I’ve ever tasted. It doesn’t have the same intense attack on the taste buds. It has a softness that I attribute to the higher presence of other minerals and is one of the reasons you can add it to the end of cooking. The size and shape of the crystal makes it an incredible complement to the food we make. I always have it in my bag when I travel.”

Salt, or sodium chloride (NaCl on the chemical compound chart), is a naturally occurring material and an essential element in our diets. According to the CDC, each day the average American consumes about 3,400 milligrams of salt, which might be mined from the earth or harvested from the sea. “It’s the only condiment produced on every continent and the only thing humans crave, because we need it to survive,” says Nuttle.

Salt has played an important role in world history and been a prized possession, dating as far back as 6050 B.C. Roman soldiers were given an allowance of salt know as salarium, from which the word “salary” is derived. It’s also been used in religious offerings in Egyptian culture and, at one time, was one of the world’s most sought-after commodities for trade. Even the Phoenicians were known to trade salt. “Salt dates back to the earliest civilizations of Mesopotamia and the Fertile Crescent,” explains Carter Bruns, Nancy’s historian husband who happened upon the history of the family’s livelihood while pursuing a master’s degree in history at Western Carolina University. “As soon as man started settling in cities and stayed in place to preserve food, there was salt.”

J.Q. Dickinson’s story starts in the early part of the 19th century when William Dickinson, along with his brother-in-law, Joel Shrewsbury, traveled from Bedford County, Virginia, to the rugged Kanawha Valley to find brine. Using hollowed-out sycamore trees as piping, Dickinson and his crew made their first salt well. Though Bruns and Payne use solar evaporation methods now, Dickinson and the generations that followed boiled the brine, which led the family to run and own other industries in coal, gas, and timber, holdings they still have today. By 1817, at a time before refrigeration, business was booming as barrels of salt were loaded on barges bound for Cincinnati, then the seat of the meat-packing industry, where the salt was used for curing and preservation, then, years later, for road construction and paving.

“We grew up in Charleston, but we didn’t know anything about the salt-making that went on here,” says Payne, the great, great, great, great grandson of William Dickinson.

Ironically, Bruns’ discovery came when Carter stumbled upon a wealth of information about the Kanawha Valley while writing his master’s thesis. “We would make fun of him on trips, because he always had these historical books,” Nancy recalls. “And one time, he brought Mark Kurlansky’s book Salt on a trip. He said, ‘You all make fun of me for reading these books, but your family is in this one.’ I was like, ‘Really?’ We grew up here, but we didn’t know the history.” Recalls Carter, “After learning the family’s history, she said, ‘Honey, do you think there’s still brine?’ And I told her that I had no doubt,” recalls Carter.

At the time, Bruns couldn’t shake the idea that she and her brother should attempt to bring the business back to life. “I was seeing more and more salt companies pop up, and it just kind of struck me,” she recalls. “I was like, ‘We have the land, the resources are there, and the timing is right where consumers and chefs are trying to source at home.’ There are just a handful of salt companies in this country—I saw a niche market.” With some gentle prodding, Payne agreed. Says Payne, “It took the second or third discussion to wrap my brain around it.”

Bruns couldn’t shake the idea that she and her brother should bring the business back to life.

In May of 2013, the siblings hired a water-well driller to bore a hole for brine. “We didn’t know what it was going to look like or taste like,” says Payne, “or if it was going to be contaminated or even if there was brine.” But with the help of well-preserved maps, which showed the locations and elevations of the wells on-site at the former salt offices still on the property, they had a hunch that they might find salt. “At 300 feet, which is what the maps told us, we hit saltwater,” says Payne. “We felt the deeper we go, the richer the brine is going to be.” At 350 feet, they hit pay dirt. “We were thrilled. We looked at each other and said, ‘What do we do now?’ We thought we might never get to that point.”

J.Q. Dickinson sold about 11,000 pounds of salt last year and expects that sales will stay strong in the coming year. In addition to tapping into interest in local sourcing, J.Q. Dickinson’s all-natural process taps into the sustainable sourcing trend, too. While most salt is mined with machines and then highly refined to remove impurities, J.Q. Dickinson relies solely on Mother Nature. “Only a few salt makers in the country were doing this through evaporation with salt water and noncooking methods. When we started a few years ago, Maine Sea Salt was the only one,” explains Payne.

The process unfolds over four to six weeks in one of two tanks that “clarify” and allow the iron in the salt to oxidize, then settle. It’s then moved into evaporation beds in one of four sun-houses. From there, the salt is evaporated to concentrate the salinity, before being pumped into the final crystallization beds, where the crystals are raked to separate them from the nigari (a mineral-rich liquid and naturally occurring byproduct of the salt, that can be used to make tofu). New beds are poured March through October.

The salt is a sight to behold. Against the black polyethylene-lined beds, the small, shimmering pure-white pyramid- and diamond-shape crystals float on the water like stars dotting the sky. “It’s important for a food product to be as clean and sustainable as possible,” says Bruns. “I think of the salt as an agricultural product that’s coming from the ground. We are letting Mother Nature do her work, and then we harvest it.”

Inside the offices, a few feet from the sun-houses, Payne and Paige sift through trays of salt that lay on cotton flour cloth for drying. They use hand-carved birch paddles to deal with impurities such as bugs and other organic matter that might land in the beds. It’s laborious, but it puts them in touch with their past. “Some days you think, ‘It had to be a fairy tale,’” says Payne. “But this brings it back to life. This isn’t just another product on the shelves. It’s something we take seriously, because using that name represents our entire family.”

Worth Its Salt

Most salts are at least 98 to 99 percent sodium chloride, but it’s what goes into that last 2 percent that distinguishes types of salt. Here’s a rundown on how to distinguish your salts.

Kosher Salt: Craggy crystals that come from either the sea or the earth. It’s fast-dissolving and can be used for all cooking.

Fleur De Sel: This sea salt is a special-occasion salt that comes from evaporating ocean water. The fleur de sel is the delicate crystals that form on the surface. Great on crudo or raw veggies.

Flaked Sea Salt: This is one of the fastest-dissolving salt of all grains, the most famous of which comes from Maldon, England. A great finishing salt to use on all foods.

Crystalline Sea Salt: Adds a powerful punch of flavor to anything from a salad to a steak. Depending on what minerals they contain, the crystals come fine or coarse and vary in color.