The Little Joys of Lewisburg, West Virginia

There’s nothing people love more than a pleasant surprise. And that’s exactly what Lewisburg, West Virginia, is—a small town with big charm in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains and only a five-hour drive from Baltimore, with every minute worth it for a true getaway from city life, even if only for a long weekend.

In fact, Lewisburg was once described by Budget Travel as “America’s coolest small town,” on top of many other superlatives from the likes of Thrillist and Travel+Leisure.

Situated on the Greenbrier River and surrounded by forest, it unfurls like a mini oasis, offering countless delights to visitors—art galleries, antique stores, acclaimed restaurants, and an abundance of cultural institutions. Best of all, it’s a year-round draw, with annual events ranging from April’s Chocolate Festival to August’s Literary Festival to October’s Taste of Our Towns. It’s no wonder the town is becoming more popular with new residents and visitors alike. (Honestly, we hope it doesn’t become too popular.)

The bottom line: Don’t let any preconceived notions about West Virginia fool you. Upon entering the Mountain State, the first thing you might see is a welcome sign hailing this countryside as “wild and wonderful.” As you make your way to Lewisburg ideally with John Denver’s “Take Me Home, Country Roads” on blast—it’s hard not to agree.

AN EARLY RETREAT

On our most recent visit, we drove out of Baltimore, around Washington, D.C., and through the rolling hills of Virginia, then over the state line into Greenbrier County.

Incorporated in 1778, it is one of the oldest counties in West Virginia, and it was in those early days that the grand Greenbrier Resort first opened as an aristocratic vacationland in White Sulphur Springs. Just 10 miles east of Lewisburg, it’s a requisite pit-stop for local landmark history on the way to your final destination.

An easy train ride from Washington, D.C. (and once owned by the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway), the Greenbrier has long been a respite for guests coming from the urban epicenters of the Mid-Atlantic. That easy access helped draw a well-heeled clientele of politicians, celebrities, and other notable personas.

After World War II, New York society darling and interior designer Dorothy Draper was enlisted to reinvigorate the property, bringing a bright, colorful, maximalist aesthetic that remains today.

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Greenbrier still offers old-glam, five-star lodgings—some 710 resorts, 64 cottages, and six estates, to be exact—and then some. These days, there is also an on-site casino, golf course, bowling alley, all-ages arcade, and even “bunker tours” of its once-top-secret Cold War fallout shelters, said to have been created by President Eisenhower and reserved for Commanders-in-Chief.

Much as it was in the 18th century, the resort continues to be a wellness destination, with the region’s cool mountain air providing a reprieve from the heat and humidity of cities, and its natural springs full of mineral-rich water, said to be soothing for arthritis, stress, and other ailments. Today, the luxury spa offers everything from signature soaks to salt-cave treatments, massages, and meditation.

Walk the grounds, breathe in the medicinal air, then move on down the road for the less grandiose but equally gratifying charm of Lewisburg.

TOWN & COUNTRY

Less than 10 miles from the Greenbrier, the Midland Trail Byway, aka Route 60, eventually turns into the tiny town of Lewisburg. Originally established as an outpost in the 1750s by its namesake surveyor, Andrew Lewis, it’s located a stone’s throw from the Greenbrier River, which flows wide and splendid.

Officially laid out in 1780, the town of Lewisburg largely consists of two thoroughfares, Washington and Jefferson streets. Charming houses and eclectic businesses abound, and walking around is the best way to explore them, as well as their array of architectural styles.

It’s a small downtown—population 3,800—but on every street corner, there is a strong sense of community and creative spirit, plus a welcoming attitude toward out-of-towners.

In the springtime, just be sure to stop and smell the red begonias. In a tradition that dates back decades, the town’s unofficial flower will be hanging from streetlights and garden fences throughout the warm-weather season.

ARTS + HISTORY

For those initially lured to Lewisburg by the Greenbrier, there might be history buffs in tow. Luckily for them, the town’s Historic Landmarks Commission has created a self-led walking tour for the many notable local sites.

The route is available online, as well as via a complimentary printed map that can be picked up at the Greenbrier Valley Visitors Center. Highlights include one of Industrial Revolution tycoon Andrew Carnegie’s four Carnegie Halls, which, as in New York City, hosts live performances and rotating exhibits, like their outdoor concert series throughout the summer.

Also worth visiting is the North House Museum and Archives, where exhibitions, lectures, and a research library are on hand for inquisitive visitors.

A less likely time warp can be found at Flanagan’s Barbershop, whose circa-1860 building has continuously housed a hair-cuttery since the turn of the 20th century. With two old-school swivel chairs, you can still get a snip or a shave today.

As the local Carnegie indicates, even all the way out here, there’s no dearth of arts and culture. Another historic site gets a modern twist at the circa-1939 Lewis Theatre, a vaudeville stage turned modernized space with retro film screenings, dance performances, and live music.

Meanwhile, the Greenbrier Valley Theatre, now in its 57th season, serves as the state professional theater of West Virginia. Across town, multiple galleries also showcase art on display and for sale, like Paragon Fine Art, with rotating exhibitions, and the Lee Street Studios artist collective. Housed in a historic elementary school, the latter fittingly hosts on-site classes, from watercolor painting to woodworking, as well as community events.

QUAINT COMMERCE

Looking to take home a memento other than an artistic masterpiece? A bevy of shops is another boon downtown. Fun fact: Many of the businesses are owned and operated by women, like The Golden Rabbit, an eclectic boutique run by art dealer Adrienne French, whose curated selection includes antiques, jewelry, and home goods, from Tiffany lamps to originals by modernist artist Eva Zeisel.

So far from the ocean, you won’t be surprised to learn that, across the street at the Lewisburg Surf Shop, there are no boards in sight, but instead a luxury goods mecca that would be as much at home on Melrose or Madison avenue. Run by fashion industry veteran and Lewisburg native Meredith German, this itty-bitty boutique is home to clothing brands ike Marni, Saint James, and Proenza Schouler.

More clothing can be found at Cat and Kate, a mother-daughter-owned shop with lots of colorful womenswear and gifts. Meanwhile, Istanbul designer Cybele Bo’s Cybele stocks one-of-a-kind, handmade accessories, while Wolf Creek runs a longstanding store that’s stuffed floor-to-ceiling with boho-chic clothing.

For something a bit more literary, the independent New Chapter Bookstore is a bookworm’s must, featuring bindings for all ages. Be sure to check their calendar for the next Scrabble Night or Book Club.

And if you didn’t scratch that antique itch? Collectors are covered, thanks to multiple establishments selling second-hand treasures of every variety. Find them at Robert’s, Brick House, and Patina, to name a few.

EDIBLE DELIGHTS

After all that shopping, it’s easy to work up an appetite. For both real foodies and fans of comfort-food-style Southern cuisine, Lewisburg has a plethora of options all within strolling distance, many of which place an emphasis on local ingredients.

At The French Goat, guests can slowly peruse the elegant menu of this European-inspired, farm-to-table bistro, voted best fine dining and best brunch by WV Living Magazine. We recommend indulging in duck confit and truffle frites.

Around the corner in a converted 19th-century stable, The Livery Tavern also offers sophisticated dining, founded on a bedrock of local steak, plus hints of Creole and Indian flavors. Come for a meal but stay for craft cocktails, using regional spirits, beers, and ciders, mostly made in West Virginia.

For something more casual, the RNCVRT bakery, located a short drive south of town, sells sweet gluten-free treats, healthful salads, and local coffee from Cherry River Roasting Company.

Back at Stardust Cafe downtown, an eco-friendly approach imbues every aspect of lunch and dinner, which means they use everything from fair-trade ingredients to biodegradable packaging. Go for fresh pastas, a signature burger (using Lewisburg beef, of course), and a well-curated wine list.

The Bavarian-inspired Briergarten also shines with a selection of house brewed beers and casual noshes like pretzels and bratwursts, while Thunderbird Taco slings Tex-Mex cuisine with a West Virginia twist, featuring meat and produce from area farms. We especially like the black bean burrito with homemade buttermilk crema and slaw.

Pack some provisions for a hike or the trip home from Bella, a corner shop crafting cheese plates and charcuterie boards, with picnic baskets available for purchase. Also peruse their shelves that showcase specialty ingredients like Momofuku chili crunch, Starlino cocktail cherries, and West Virginia’s own J.Q. Dickinson salts, made up the road in Malden.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

After singing the praises of Lewisburg’s quaint charms, we want to direct you away from town. After all, more than three-quarters of the Mountain State is—you guessed it—covered in woodland, from the Greenbrier State Forest located just outside of town to plenty of other impressive state and national parks within a short driving distance.

At the former, some 5,000 acres of wild land offer endless ways to hike, bike, swim, fish, and camp. For the amenity-inclined, there’s even a heated pool open from Memorial Day through Labor Day. That said, for outdoor enthusiasts, it’s also an ideal starting point for the 78-mile Greenbrier River Trail, a former railroad path now paved for leisurely strolls, fast-paced biking, and even horseback riding.

Further afield, to the north, the southern-most tip of the massive Monongahela National Forest offers a biodiverse treasure trove of flora and fauna, plus hiking trails, creek-side camping, and places to paddle.

Back near the Virginia line, the 1.8-million-acre George Washington & Jefferson National Forest is an even larger landscape, home to lush groves of old-growth trees, mountain streams, and picturesque peaks as far as the eye can see.