From sushi to ceviche to crudo to carpaccio, raw (aka tartare) dishes, have long been a prominent part of various cultures and gained popularity at Baltimore restaurants. But lately, every area menu seems to have its take on steak tartare. And this raw beef dish, with a creamy consistency and assertive seasoning, has become the new “It” appetizer, with various versions, whether chopped, ground, or practically puréed, on offer at Duck Duck Goose, Marie Louise Bistro, Monarque, The Milton Inn, and JBGB’s.

The original dish was called steak à l’Americaine, and a variety served with tartar sauce on the side was called à la tartare. Eventually, the sauce was eliminated, but the name stuck.

“The fun of it always was that the French would give you all of the hand-chopped beef and there would be a raw egg yolk sitting on top,” says Cindy Wolf, co-owner and executive chef of Charleston in Harbor East. “And then you would have the garnishes around and you’d make your own. In the U.S., over time, people started mixing it all together and doing their own versions.”

Wolf’s version of the dish—hand-chopped beef tenderloin, chopped shallots, chives, lime, jalapeño, and EVOO, served with French bread toast points—is at once familiar and brand new, with a brightness that comes courtesy of the jalapeño.

“It sells so well,” says Wolf. “It’s one of the most popular things on the menu.”

The steak tartare trend has really taken off thanks to the prevalence of high-quality beef in the U.S., says Wolf, who sources her product from Kansas-based Creekstone Farms.

“We have excellent quality beef in our country,” says Wolf, whose father worked in the restaurant industry and whose grandfather and great-grandfather were butchers. “People recognize that—and that there’s nothing wrong with eating it raw.”

COMING SOON

Plant Food + Wine and Double Zero Pizzeria: Best known for his seasonal vegan philosophy, Los Angeles-based celebrity chef Matthew Kenney is making his mark on Charm City by bringing two of his plant-based restaurants to the ground floor of the 414 Light Street building downtown. The first will be Plant Food + Wine, a sit-down spot featuring artful vegan dishes like aromatic squash with roasted fennel and kelp noodle cacio e pepe. Double Zero Pizza will neighbor the restaurant, serving up vegan pies topped with cashew mozzarella, eggplant bacon, and farro-fennel sausage. Both concepts, which will join Ramen Utsuke from the owner of Kippo Ramen in the building, will be designed by local firm SM+P Architects and are slated to open this summer.

Stephen Gorn, president and CEO of developer Questar Properties, says that the restaurants are meant to be on brand with what 414 Light Street offers its tenants. “The restaurant component really dovetails into the theme of our building,” Gorn told us last year. “We have a health and wellness program, and a quality concierge that will cater to the living experience of our residents. And food is a big part of that experience.” 414 Light St.

Motzi Bread: Be on the lookout for this upcoming bakery from Charles Village locals Maya Muñoz, a Baltimore City school teacher, and Russell Trimmer, a former Woodberry Kitchen baker and farmer at Next Step Produce in Charles County. The owners, who live above their street-level storefront on the corner of Guilford Avenue and East 28th Street, will focus on locally sourced loaves that use freshly milled flour and grains including corn and buckwheat from Migrash Farm in Randallstown. Although the shop isn’t expected to open until the fall, Motzi, which gets its name from the Hebrew blessing over bread, launched a weekly subscription service earlier this week. Featured loaves include a sprouted five-grain, focaccia topped with sunflower oil, and a caraway beer bread made with suds from neighboring brewery Peabody Heights. 2801 Guilford Ave.

Baltimore Seafood: Crab purists might have a tough time grasping this new concept that is on its way to Canton. Taking inspiration from The Shaking Crab, an East Coast chain with locations spanning from Boston to Brooklyn, the restaurant serves crab and other crustaceans in a plastic bag that diners shake up with signature spices and sauces. (Think crawfish with cajun seasonings and mussels with sweet chili miso.) Set to open in the former La Tolteca space on Boston Street this May, the spot will offer a wide range of oceanic offerings, as well as seafood-boil sides like steamed corn and red potatoes. 2324 Boston St.

OPEN

Pillion Tea: Local tea houses seem to be on the up and up. Emma’s Tea Spot opened to rave reviews in Hamilton last year, Twisted Teahouse is expected to debut in Hampden this spring, and now, Midtown-Belvedere locals have this new shop to turn to when they’re in need of a strong brew. Pillion Tea opened its doors earlier this month, offering local Wight Tea Co. varieties, craft sodas, and sweet pastries like cherry scones and lemon-strawberry pound cake. Spring specials include a vanilla-mint matcha latte, Ceylon black iced tea with lemon, berry Sencha green tea lemonade, and a house chamomile-strawberry soda. 42 W. Biddle St. 443-759-5430

Green House Juice Cafe: Regulars were ecstatic when this Charles Village staple, formerly Grind House Juice Bar, reopened earlier this week. The fuel-up fixture closed for “rejuvenations” in December, but is now back up and running with an updated name and new partner Flourish Baltimore—a holistic lifestyle brand that features organic herbal teas, essential oils, soy candles, and other wares that are handmade by Maryland merchants. Swing by to check out the updated digs, while also grabbing a few self-care products, a blended smoothie, or vegan snacks like the fan-favorite goddess kale salad. 2433 St. Paul St. 410-366-2441

NEWS

The Elephant: The past week has been an emotional rollercoaster for fans of this storied spot in Mt. Vernon. After announcing that they were forced to close the restaurant due to ongoing financial struggles, the owners recently decided that they will be able to open on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays throughout the entire month of April. Not ready to give up hope, the team has also launched a GoFundMe campaign to save the building—a posh, 19th-century mansion complete with Tiffany stained glass, intricate teak woodwork, dangling Waterford crystal, and golden chandeliers. “Today, The Elephant is in jeopardy of closing,” reads a post to the fundraising page. “And the historic architectural elements may soon be ripped out and sold piece-by-piece due to a hostile takeover by one of our initial investors.” In only one day, the page raised $4,500 of its $600,000 goal. 924 N. Charles St.

James Beard Finalists Announced: Earlier this week, the James Beard Foundation narrowed down its list of semifinalists to determine which national names would be honored as nominees at the esteemed awards gala in Chicago on May 6. For the eighth time, chef Cindy Wolf of Charleston in Harbor East has been named a finalist in the Best Chef Mid-Atlantic category. Although the bar team from Clavel in Remington was named a semifinalist for Outstanding Bar Program this year, they unfortunately didn’t make the cut for the final round. After 12 nominations total (eight being finalists nods), chef Wolf has yet to bring home the medal. As always, we’re crossing our fingers that this is her year.

“I am so honored, happy, and excited to be nominated again,” Wolf said in a statement. “There is so much inspiration in this world of ours. I just want to keep absorbing it, to keep learning and moving forward. But in the end, the best food is made with love and care.”

Sagamore Whiskey Wins Best Rye: Speaking of national acclaim, Sagamore Spirit’s Port Finish whiskey recently won the Double Gold medal and the distinction of Best Rye Whiskey at the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition. The award is a huge win for the local distilling community, especially after Sagamore’s Cask Strength Rye won a Double Gold in 2017 and Baltimore Spirits Company’s Epoch Rye took home the prize last year. All of the acclaim goes to show that Baltimore is officially back on the map as a whiskey-distilling powerhouse.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/29: Anatomy of a Chicken Box Part Two
Two years ago, crowds formed lines around the block for part one of this epic mashup between Ekiben and Blacksauce Kitchen at the old Union Craft Brewing space. Now, in celebration of Ekiben’s third birthday, the crews are teaming up to do it all over again. For part two, everything is expected to be bigger and better. Head to Union’s massive Medfield digs to enjoy live music, cold beers, and, of course, a next-level menu from Ekiben and Blacksauce. Although details are typically under wraps until the day of, it’s safe to say that the drool-worthy dishes will pay homage to the iconic Baltimore chicken box. 1700 W. 41st St. 4-10 p.m.

3/29-30: Beer, Bourbon & Barbecue Festival
For the 13th year, this all-out smoke show is returning to the Maryland State Fairgrounds with—you guessed it—more than 60 beers, 40 bourbons, and lots of fingerlickin’ fare. While strolling around the festival, keep your eyes peeled for local brands including Monument City Brewing, Raven Beer, Sagamore Spirit, HarborQue, and Char’d Barbecue. Throughout the weekend, there will also be special events such as bourbon bingo, distilling seminars, and a jam-packed live music lineup. 2200 York Rd. $40-125

CH-CH CHANGES

Little Bird: Hampden locals were still getting to know this six-month-old subterranean spot when co-owners Paul and Caroline Benkert recently decided to close it and pivot in a new direction. Come May, the space will be transformed from a European-inspired cafe to an extension of the Bluebird Cocktail Room—which the owners operate upstairs in the same Hickory Avenue building. “Upstairs will remain the cocktail room, and downstairs will be the pub,” explains Paul.

Bluebird’s literary-themed aesthetic will carry over into the pub, which will showcase deep blue walls, built-in banquettes, and dim lighting with candles. The food options will differ slightly, however, highlighting more traditional offerings like fish n’ chips made with whole fish filleted in house. Other pub additions will include a large global whiskey selection, more beer, a daily lunch menu, and brunch service on the weekends.

“The Baltimore community has been incredibly supportive during these first two years,” Paul says. “The Bluebird needs room to grow, and unfortunately, the Little Bird concept doesn’t allow that to directly happen.” He goes on to say that pub will remedy the long wait times that diners experience at Bluebird on busy nights. “In a single weekend, we lose nearly 400 guests,” he says. “We’re very much looking forward to providing many of those guests with a similar experience downstairs while they’re waiting.” 3600 Hickory Ave. 667-303-3263

OPEN

R&R Taqueria: Window signage teasing a new location of this Guy Fieri-approved taco joint has been on display at the corner of Charles and Lombard streets for a while now. And earlier this week, the beloved taqueria finally made its downtown debut. Stop in to see chef/owner Rodrigo Albarran—more fondly known as Chef Rod—serving up the restaurant’s signature tacos, burritos, fajitas, and burgers including the “Fuego” topped with sriracha mayo and ghost pepper cheese. Decorated with colorful dia de los muertos wall murals, the 3,600-square-foot space is a far cry from Albarran’s original tiny location inside an Elkridge gas station. The new digs offer 80 seats, space for live music performances, a mezzanine level, and a full bar with plenty of margaritas and Mexican beers to go around. 30 Light St. Ste 2.

NEWS

Food & Wine Makers Issue Gives Love to Local Producers: Don’t be surprised to see some familiar faces while flipping through the current edition of Food & Wine magazine. The publication’s first-ever Makers Issue spotlights more than 30 “game-changing craftspeople who are reshaping cuisine in America and abroad by redefining ingredients, drinks, tools, restaurant design, and experiences.” Among those people is our own Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen, whose writeup mentions his go-to growers including Colleen and Michael Histon of Shepherds Manor Creamery in Carroll County and Rob Miller of Distillery Lane Ciderworks in Frederick County.

James Beard Nominations: Speaking of representing Baltimore on the national level, in case you missed it, Clavel and Chef Cindy Wolf were both names James Beard Semifinalists this week. The Remington mezcaleria was given a nod for Outstanding Bar Program and Chef Wolf was nominated for an impressive 12th time in the category of Best Chef Mid-Atlantic. The more narrowed list of finalists will be out March 27 and the James Beard Awards will be presented in Chicago on May 6. Hoping that beginner’s luck—as well as patient perseverance—are on our side this year.

Le Comptoir du Vin: After three months of serving non-stop sourdough and swordfish, the team at this new Station North bistro is taking a brief hiatus to rest, recoup, and conduct some culinary research abroad. The staff is going on a winter vacation to eat their way through Montreal, Copenhagen, and Oaxaca, and will return in time to reopen Le Comptoir du Vin on March 5. When dreaming up their plans for the wine bar, co-owners Will Mester and Rosemary Liss were inspired by the intimate spots they encountered while traveling throughout Europe—so we wouldn’t be surprised to see a few new dishes make their way onto the menu after they return from their current trip. 1729 Maryland Ave. 443-297-7384

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/1-3: Suspended Brewing’s One-Year Anniversary Celebration
In the year since this neighborhood microbrewery opened its doors in Pigtown, it’s released a stellar beer lineup while also educating the masses about the importance of being socially and economically sustainable. To celebrate its big birthday, Suspended is hosting a weekend-long celebration featuring new releases, raffles all weekend, Friday-night trivia, and a sold-out Sunday drag brunch. Stop by the wood-stained taproom throughout the weekend to toast the milestone with a flight of new beers like the “Clockwork Universe” (French saison brewed with oats and orange peel) and “Caterpillar Schemes,” a hazy IPA brewed with 50 percent oats and hopped with azacca and Nelson Sauvin hops. 912 Washington Blvd. 410-926-8847

3/4: Plenty More Fish in the Sea
Salmon and rockfish often take the spotlight in the fine-dining world. But the brains behind South Baltimore staples Minnow and Rye Street Tavern are coming together to host this collaboration dinner in an effort to highlight lesser-known fish that are oftentimes more sustainable. (Think everything from blowfish tails to frog legs.) Rye Street’s chef Brian Plante and Minnow’s Ben Lefenfeld will present a five-course menu including oven-roasted salmon collars, smoked bluefish pierogies with lemon and capers, and wood-grilled Boston mackerel in a red wine jus. Rye Street Tavern, 13 Rye St. 6:30. $79

When Clavel’s head bartender Dre Barnhill heard the news that the Remington mezcaleria had been nominated for a James Beard Award this morning, he was almost speechless. The beverage team is one of only 20 throughout the nation to be named a semifinalist in the category of Outstanding Bar Program, with other nominees spanning from the sophisticated Columbia Room in Washington, D.C. to the tiki-inspired Lost Lake in Chicago.

“My reaction? Oh, man, this is so cool,” Barnhill told us, still seeming to be in a slight daze. “There are such talented people on the list. I love some of those bars.”

Co-owner Lane Harlan was also admittedly shocked: “I don’t even know how this works,” she said. “I messaged the entire bar team. Half of them were awake, the other half were not, but I told them that they are amazing and that I’m so proud.”

Although this is Clavel’s first-ever nomination for the prestigious awards, it isn’t the only Baltimore name that appears on this year’s list of semifinalists. Chef Cindy Wolf, executive chef/owner of Charleston in Harbor East, also received her 12th nomination for Best Chef: Mid Atlantic. This time around, Wolf is up against contenders including chef Jon Sybert of D.C.’s Tail Up Goat and chef Matthew Kern of Heirloom in Lewes, Delaware.

While Wolf—who often quips that she’s the Susan Lucci of the category—has yet to bring home the medal, she remains humbled to be recognized for her unique take on Lowcountry cuisine at Charleston.

“Every time I am up for the award, all I can think is that I want to get up on that stage so I can honor and thank my Dad,” she says, “and all the people I work with who are also my family. Hopefully I’ll get to wear those new red jeweled shoes again that I found for Duff [Goldman’s] wedding.”

Clavel co-owners Harlan and chef Carlos Raba are also humbled by the acknowledgement, both emphasizing how proud they are of their staff.

“Our team works their butts off in the bar,” Raba says. “They have workshops for hours planning beers and cocktails. We never expected this, but it reflects the hard work that they do and the passion for the team—it’s such an honor.”

Since opening in 2015, Clavel has not only gained a reputation for having some of the most authentic Mexican cuisine around, but it’s also become known as the restaurant that put mezcal on the map in Baltimore. The group is so dedicated to the spirit, in fact, that they take routine trips to Mexico each year to meet with farmers and become more familiar with the intricacies of the agave plant.

“Our goal is to make things that are inspired by our journeys and these collections of memories that we have together,” Barnhill says. “Clavel just seems to have this certain kind of magnetism that draws people in.”

All of the on-site research is showcased in Clavel’s new expanded mezcaleria, where Barnhill and his team offer one-hour tasting sessions from their library that is categorized by species of agave plants.

“We don’t do what we do to get an award, that’s so alien to us,” Harlan says. “What drives us is that we push each other and do the best we can. That’s our world, and it’s pretty rad for that to be acknowledged.”

Harlan also mentions that working together creatively is a huge part of the restaurant’s success.

“We do everything collectively,” she says. “From day one that has been the number one driving factor. We’re continually evolving, holding each other accountable, embracing experimentation, and sharing ideas. We all accept criticism and take it as a challenge to be better.”

Finalists in each category will be announced on Wednesday, March 27, and this year’s James Beard Awards Gala will take place in Chicago on Monday, May 6. No matter the outcome (here’s hoping both Wolf and the crew at Clavel medal this year), the nominations are already a huge win for the Baltimore restaurant scene at large.

“When we started people said that it would be impossible to have a good place in the middle of nowhere,” Raba says. “And now to be recognized not only for the hard work that we do, but nationally, it’s amazing.”