The World Is My Oyster

A love letter to Dylan’s Oyster Cellar.

It wasn’t until my late 20s that I tasted my first oyster. In fact, until then, I don’t think I even knew that people ate raw oysters. When I was a kid, the most suspect seafood I grudgingly consumed was gefilte fish, top-heavy with an almost iridescent red horseradish and served at the end of a toothpick every Passover.

Finally, when I graduated college—and I was free to make my own choices as a full-fledged adult with my own income—I began to realize there was so much more seafood out there just waiting for me. And while I can’t recall the exact first time that someone pried open a half-shell for me to slurp down, I do remember traveling to New Orleans in 2002 with my sister, who was interviewing at Tulane.

Over that long weekend, we ate all the things (read: stuff our parents never ate), including far too many oysters the night before we flew home. I’m not sure how I made it back, I was so sick from those mollusks. And understandably, there was a long hiatus after that, though I wasn’t ready to completely swear them off. (Food is the one place in my life where I’m completely forgiving.)

My first good oysters were eaten a decade later, at a temporary pop-up space in Mt. Vernon called Dylan’s Oyster Cellar. It really was a cellar, with a short flight of steps down the subterranean sidewalk of Madison Street, now home to the lovely Sugarvale.

There, I worked up the courage to slurp again, and this time was a revelation. Not only were they delicious, but I marveled at the different flavor profiles (salty, briny, meaty, sweet), as well as the accoutrements (lemon juice, cocktail sauce, mignonette). It was a whole new world for me.

So, when Dylan’s moved permanently to the corner of 36th and Chestnut in Hampden, I dutifully followed. I have since eaten coddies, smoked trout, scallops, and anchovies perched on a baguette with butter and a squirt of lemon, washed down with cold, white wine—sometimes all in the same night.

I’ve also consumed heirloom tomato salad, crispy, potato skins with a huge dollop of chive-y sour cream sauce, and stick-to-your-ribs bowls of beans, best eaten on a cold winter night.

It’s where I had my first meal out in August 2020, as we emerged from COVID restrictions. I’ve celebrated birthdays and anniversaries there. And many times, I’ve gone in for no reason at all. (Okay, it was for the cheeseburger.) Who knew that an oyster house would become my favorite place in Baltimore City?

But it’s more than just that. I love knowing that co-owner Irene Salmon (yes, salmon) is working the host stand in her no-nonsense way. I love knowing that her husband, Dylan Salmon, is going to wander out of the kitchen to pop by our table with a sense of ease. I love the space’s special coziness, with its original brick walls and penny tile, and its simplicity, with old-school desk chairs and bud vases on the tables—probably made by Irene, a part-time ceramicist.

And now, after all these years, I love working my way through a plate of oysters, trying to remember which ones are which, savoring the flavors, and flipping those ice-cold shells over one at a time, triumphantly.

This is one of five deeply personal Love Letters—reflections on restaurants that hold a special spot in our hearts—from our 2024 Best Restaurants list. View more of our picks, here.

Maybe it’s because when the pandemic hit there was a rush to stock up on canned foods, or maybe it’s because people have gotten into pickling and preserving. Whatever the reason, at area restaurants, from Dylan’s Oyster Cellar to Annapolis’s Sailor Oyster Bar, tin is in.

So why is tin fish making a splash on local menus?

“I equate tin fish to a lot of other preservation methods that have become more a part of what people have learned to love,” says Ben Lefenfeld, chef-owner of La Cuchara, which has a section of its menu devoted to “conservas” (preserved food). “It’s one of those ubiquitous things that started out of necessity but has really grown into a culture all its own.”

This centuries-old way of preserving fish has been around for eons in Portugal, Spain, and South America, where it’s part of the daily diet. Now, it’s finally catching on in Baltimore.

“It’s an opportunity to try different types of seafood you might never have been exposed to,” says Lefenfeld, “and a great way to taste something that was prepared at the prime of the season.”

Enrique Pallares, co-owner of The Wine Collective, enjoys educating his guests about the specialty seafood he grew up eating in his native Ecuador.

“When people ask me about tin fish, I tell them to think of tin fish less in the context of Chicken of the Sea and more in the context of caviar—both are preserved and come in a tin or a jar,” he says of the wine bar’s fare, including calamari in ragout and sardines with lemon and olive oil. “In Europe and South America, it’s just part of the way of life to have an aperitivo and sit and have your glass of vermouth, while you accompany it with olives, tin fish, or charcuterie. In America, people are catching on to the idea of eating smaller bites over a longer period rather than eating giant entrees.”

If the pandemic has taught us anything, it’s that you can take it with you.

When you just don’t feel comfortable eating inside a restaurant, getting food to go is no longer a matter of last resort. While plenty of joints have long run a brisk carryout and delivery business, other restaurants have gotten into the game as a way of broadening their business models.

When Le Comptoir du Vin pivoted to becoming a European-style pantry featuring grab-and-go items, they did it as a matter of survival. “When we saw the pandemic wasn’t going away, we restructured,” says Rosemary Liss, who co-owns the Station North restaurant with her partner Will Mester. “That has carried us through this whole time.”

Now, as the restaurant re-opens for regular dinner service, the marketplace is still open for business. “This is here to stay,” says Liss.

Carrying-out is the new dining-in. Here are the “It” items from other area spots:

Dylan’s Oyster Cellar

It’s an “R” month (not that it really matters anymore, thanks to oyster farming), which means it’s the peak time to slurp oysters to-go. From Duxbury to Wellfleets, this Hampden haunt serves some of the best bivalves in Baltimore.

Limoncello

The “Gnocchi Al Telefono” bathed in tomato ragù and topped with smoked mozzarella is as good to-go as when you eat in at this Locust Point restaurant.

Linwoods

This Owings Mills institution has consistently provided some of the best to-go fine-dining fare since the start of the pandemic. The broiled crab cake with a side of slaw is a menu highlight.

Tapas Teatro

Don’t make us pick just one! Well, that’s the whole point at this Station North staple. Settle on a few classics, like spicy chicken and cheese croquettes, grilled octopus in Romesco sauce, salmon slicked with molasses, then follow up with flan.

[Editor’s Note: This piece was published as part of our October 2021 cover story “The Mighty Oyster.” Read the full package, here.]

When did oyster bars become the coolest places to eat? Over the past few years, these seafood spots have crept their way onto lists of the hippest dining establishments, and for good reason.

Like oysters, they’re the just-right mix of no-frills and fancy, encouraging a way of eating that’s steeped in nostalgia, supportive of the farm-to-table movement, and features a central communal dining space around which friends and strangers can come together even in divisive times. It’s a trend we hope is here to stay.

Order a dozen—or few—at any of these city favorites.

DYLAN’S OYSTER CELLAR

Hampden

The perfect oyster bar exists on a quiet corner in Hampden, where a mermaid mural mingles with a half-shell-eating Jesus collage and, in non-COVID times, happy hour includes Natty Boh tallboys and buck-a-shuck specials from their thoughtfully curated selection. Owners Dylan and Irene Salmon live up to their seafoody last name. 3601 Chestnut Ave.

THE LOCAL OYSTER

Mt. Vernon

From shucking on the city streets to a brick-and-mortar at Mount Vernon Marketplace (plus a new location coming soon), the L.O.’s beloved bivalve slinger Nick Schauman has played a vital part in making oysters cool again in Baltimore, with his casual bar being one of the best hangouts in town. 520 Park Ave.

FAIDLEY’S SEAFOOD

Downtown

It is a rite of passage to sit down to a paper plate of fat half-shells at the central raw bar of this O.G. seafood establishment in Lexington Market. In ole Bawlmer fashion, they serve them on the “flats,” or top shell, with lemon and a pack of Saltines. Order a beer, and be sure to chat up Lou if he’s your shucker. 203 N. Paca St.

MAMA’S ON THE HALF SHELL

Canton

Now in its 18th year, this Canton corner bar has become a Baltimore classic, with weekend afternoons usually overflowing with locals who have flocked for oysters nearly every way you can eat them, alongside freshly squeezed orange crushes and Orioles and Ravens games on the TV. An ideal Saturday afternoon. 2901 O’Donnell St.

THAMES STREET OYSTER HOUSE

Fells Point

For a while, this Fells Point seafood haven was the only game in town serving up fine-dining flights of oysters, but even as new spots have come onto the scene, theirs remain some of the cleanest shucks around. Their impressive oyster list includes top varieties from Canada to the West Coast. 1728 Thames St.

TRUE CHESAPEAKE OYSTER CO.

Hampden

The only oyster farm-owned restaurant in the state, this Whitehall Mill pillar is the outpost of its namesake aquaculture operation. Their Southern Maryland-raised Skinny Dipper and Huckleberry oysters are always hawked at their sleek bar, alongside elevated Chesapeake cuisine by locally loved chef Zack Mills. 3300 Clipper Mill Rd.

THE URBAN OYSTER

Mobile Pop-Up

Currently operating on a mobile basis, this Blackowned oyster pop-up can be found at the Baltimore Farmers Market on Sundays. It’s always worth waiting in line for chef Jasmine Norton’s fan-favorite chargrilled oysters, featuring flavor variations like barbecue-bacon-cheddar and teriyaki. Holliday & Saratoga Sts.

FARTHER AFIELD: Ryleigh’s Oyster, Lutherville-Timonium; Sailor Oyster Bar, Annapolis; Old Ebbitt Grill, Washington, D.C.; Pearl Dive, Washington, D.C.; Ruse, St. Michaels.

La Vie En Rose from Dutch Courage

It doesn’t get any prettier than this cocktail designed by Dutch Courage owner Brendan Dorr. “I wanted to create a cocktail that represented Dutch Courage as a gin cocktail bar, and what’s better than a martini?” says Dorr. “I took the classic martini recipe and put a oral spin on it.”

INGREDIENTS
2 ounces Glendalough Rose Gin
.75 ounce Dolin Dry Vermouth
.25 ounce Tattersall Creme de Fleur 1 dash Peychaud’s Bitters
1 dash Rose Water

DIRECTIONS
1. Stir all ingredients with ice.
2. Strain into a cocktail glass.
3. Garnish with lemon peel and surround with dried rose petals.
Serves 1.

Pretty in Pink: A pink-hued cocktail is perfect for your Valentine. The color represents compassion, nurturing, and love. It also signifies unconditional love and understanding. It’s feminine, intimate, and for any romantic occasion, but especially Valentine’s Day.

Raw Oysters with Beet Horseradish from Dylan’s Oyster Cellar

“Our favorite way to eat oysters is dressed simply with prepared horseradish and lemon,” says Dylan Salmon, co-owner of Dylan’s Oyster Cellar. “For Valentine’s Day, we thought that adding beets for a pop of deep red to the gray color of horseradish would put a sweet, earthy, and colorful twist on an otherwise drab but spicy condiment.”

INGREDIENTS
Fresh horseradish root, at least 4 inches, peeled and cut into small cubes
15-ounce can cooked beets, drained
4 tablespoons white vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Fresh-shucked oysters (pick up available at Dylan’s, of course.)

DIRECTIONS
1. Add horseradish chunks a little bit at a time into the feeding tube of your food processor.
2. Pulse several times, scraping down the sides if needed.
3. Add drained beets and pulse a few more times.
4. Add vinegar, sugar, and salt and process for 30 more seconds or so, until you get a nice finely textured consistency.

NOTE: Horseradish sauce will keep in a tightly sealed container in the fridge for three days, but it will lose heat over time. If you like it hot and zingy, eat it within a few hours after you prepare it.

WARNING: Do not breathe in too closely to freshly grated horseradish, as it is blindingly hot. Also, start with a tiny bit when you first taste to ensure you can stand the heat.

To freshly shucked, raw oysters, add 1⁄4 teaspoon of the beet horseradish and a dollop of salmon roe for color, texture, and ocean flavor. Finish by garnishing with a fresh grating of lemon zest.
Makes 2 cups. 

Chocolate Truffles with Powdered Strawberries from Cosima

Nothing says Valentine’s Day like chocolate truffles. Though chocolate has long been believed to be an aphrodisiac—the emperor Montezuma was said to have consumed the cocoa bean in massive amounts to fuel his romantic trysts—science says otherwise. If chocolate has any effect on the libido, it’s likely more psychological than physiological.

That said, this recipe from Cosima exectuive chef Anthony Franklin is sure to make your loved ones feel cherished. “I prefer to make these with my special someone in the early afternoon,” says Franklin, “and enjoy these endorphin-releasing treats for dessert with a scoop of ice cream. Nothing is more convivial than waking up on Valentine’s Day and playing with chocolate.”

INGREDIENTS
8 ounces of pure chocolate
2⁄3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Strawberry powder
1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt

DIRECTIONS
1. Place chocolate in heat-resistant mixing bowl and set aside.
2. Heat heavy cream until it begins to simmer.
3. Once simmered, add butter and sea salt.
4. Pour hot liquid in the bowl of pure chocolate and allow cream to soften chocolate.
5. Add vanilla extract and mix ingredients until you achieve a smooth consistency.
6. Wrap bowl in plastic wrap and refrigerate for two hours.
7. Scoop out desired size of set truffle mix (a tablespoon works well), then roll into a ball.
8. Roll truffles into powered strawberry or desired toppings.
Serves 20-24. 

Fudgy Walnut Cookies from Citron

So many cookie recipes contain gluten, so this dense and delicious recipe for fudgy walnut cookies—by way of Citron’s pastry chef Carlie King—is a particular treat. “My inspiration for this recipe was really just a good chocolate snack everyone without a nut allergy could enjoy,” says King. “This is a great gluten-free cookie that everyone, including gluten eaters, really likes.”

INGREDIENTS
4 1⁄4 cups confectioner’s sugar
1 cup cocoa powder
2 1⁄8 cups walnuts, toasted and chopped
Pinch of salt
1 cup egg whites, pasteurized

DIRECTIONS
1. Sift confectioners’ sugar and cocoa powder into a large bowl.
2. Mix cocoa powder mixture with walnuts and salt.
3. Pour in egg whites while mixing. (You can mix by hand or at a low speed with a mixer.)
4. Mix until just combined. (Do not over mix.)
5. Scoop dough with a 2-ounce cookie scoop onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment.
6. Bake at 350 Fahrenheit for five minutes.
7. Turn and bake for an additonal five minutes.

While some restaurants have temporarily closed for business in the wake of the COVID-19 crisis, others, per Governor Larry Hogan’s directive, have gone into survival mode by staying open for curbside and carryout.

To talk about what it’s been like to pursue this new business model, we checked in with Irene Salmon, co-owner of Dylan’s Oyster Cellar in Hampden. In addition to trying to make ends meet, the emotional toll has been toughest, says Salmon.

“We are social people—we are restaurant people,” she says. “We miss our staff and our customers. We are used to seeing 100 people a day. The restaurant is an empty shell—that has been the hardest part for us.”

What has life been like for you and your staff since Governor Hogan closed restaurants and bars?
We are hanging in there. [Two weeks ago] was really wild—we had to totally overhaul our business model and lay off half of our staff. We went from being a thriving business to a failing one overnight. Every restaurant I talk to is in the same position.

From the looks of your social media account, where you and your staff are waving flags and doing Chuck Norris-style kicks as a way of advertising that you are open, it looks like you’re trying to keep it light.
We are trying to have as much fun as we possibly can and put out funny messages on the internet—maybe that’s just an avoidance. We are definitely a ship at sea. To be frank, we are bringing in a third of the income we are used to bringing in—that will only pay for what’s remaining of our payroll and food costs.

We still have $21,000 of fixed expenses—that’s rent, it’s the BGE bill, it’s Comcast, our linen company, and cleaning products, and things like that—and we are sitting on a little bit of savings, which puts us in a better position than other restaurants, but it’s not much without help. We are applying for the Maryland Relief Grant Program—that’s for up to $10,000—but that would only scratch the surface.

I think as people become more cautious and know more people who get sick, it will drop down even more, and also as people worry about their finances. I’m anticipating that. We are trying to find a new norm. It’s like we have fallen into a black hole and need to see what the new normal is.

“We went from being a thriving business to a failing one overnight.”

What changes have you had to make to the menu with this new carryout model?
We’re not doing oysters anymore, which is a shame. They are too perishable, and we don’t have enough business to sustain the volume. This is hurting our distributors and farmers. It’s a whole chain reaction. We are doing a lot of burgers, fries, and catfish sandwiches. We are hoping to sell a fried oyster sandwich. We are trying to differentiate ourselves. Everyone has a burger and fries.

How are you handling your carryout?
We have our little side door set up. People can enter and swipe their own credit cards, and we have their food ready. We change our gloves often and we are constantly sanitizing surfaces. [Three] weeks ago, when the restaurant was open, I was like, ‘There’s no way to maintain this level of cleaning with the volume of people.’ We were thankful that Hogan put the [order] in place—that takes a lot of pressure and guilt off us. The Sunday before he made the announcement, we were like, ‘This is starting to feel too scary.’

Did you offer carryout prior to this?
No, we never allowed carryout food. In fact, people would get angry about it. But when we have a full restaurant, our priority has to be our customers who are seated. Now, I’m thinking that everyone’s wish can come true—and everyone can get their soft crab sandwich to go. I’m hoping soft crab sandwiches can save our restaurant—I’m hoping that maybe the crabs can start shedding their shells a little sooner…

“We are trying to find a new norm. It’s like we have fallen into a black hole and need to see what the new normal is.”

What’s it like being in the empty space?
People are so deprived of human interaction. When that synergy is back, it’s going to be wild. Maybe I took a little bit for granted when we were so busy. At the same time, I’m like, ‘This is the saddest thing to walk into an empty restaurant.’

How is your staff doing?
We are always telling jokes. We have the most awesome staff—even the staff members who are gone are not really gone. We’ve been doing giant group texts. We are restaurant people—this is hard for us emotionally—what we are feeling is grief, and some people have never experienced grief before.

If Baltimore were a flavor, it would taste like melted marshmallow over a snowball, lemon juice from a peppermint stick, a fudgy Berger cookie, and all things crab. Both newbies and life-long locals alike pride themselves in Charm City’s fair share of native dishes, but there’s one in particular that has been forgotten over the years and is known to be quite the catch: the coddie.

The indigenous dish—a fried salt cod and potato cake sandwiched between two saltine crackers with a side of yellow mustard—traces back to the early 1900s when the Cohen family sold them in trucks all around Baltimore. The treat became an instant hit, and almost every business in the area had coddies for sale until the 1970s.

“Often they sold it as a snack, and [you] saw them on bars, that nature,” said Nancy Faidley Devine, owner of Faidley’s Seafood in Lexington Market. “They’ve been around for a long time. Of course, salt cod came over on the ships. I’m sure it goes way, way back when the sailors came across. They salted the fish to preserve it.”

But in their heyday, coddies were practically served everywhere, like candy shops, bars, and hot dog stands. While not as prevalent as they once were, the traditional snack still shows up on area menus.

Devine, 82, has been serving coddies at her restaurant since the 1960s and prepares them as traditionally as possible, using only onion, pepper, and parsley in the salt cod and mashed potato concoction just as the original did. They sell at least 300 coddies per week, and even though most people nowadays concentrate on the crab cake, they still have their share of die-hard customers who order eight coddies at a time.

Although she refuses to revamp the recipe in any way, Devine has exclusively considered creating something new out of the original that she thinks will do well with the public.

“It’s a delicious dish and a wonderful snack, and I keep thinking, ‘Boy, for somebody that would serve breakfast and serve a poached egg on a codfish cake, that would be delicious,’” Faidley said. “Codfish benedict, my new recipe.”

Other restaurants have also gotten creative with the classic dish including Dylan’s Oyster Cellar, whose owner, Dylan Salmon, frequented Faidley’s as a teenager for his coddie fix. He was drawn to the dish’s history and tradition, and has been serving it in his restaurant since the day it opened in lieu of the crab cake, which he joked he’s made too many of in his lifetime.

“I think it’s something that doesn’t pop off the menu to the eye, but once it’s ordered and tasted, you’ll remember it and you’ll come back to get it,” Salmon said. “It sits on the menu pretty boringly—with the salt and the mustard, none of that sounds good—but when you put it all together, it’s amazing.”

Unlike Faidley’s, Salmon’s coddie recipe is a bit more decorated. He adds paprika, onion powder, mustard powder, garlic, and other “secret spices for some love”—but not to the point where the original flavors are lost. He says the most important ingredient is the salt cod, which takes about two days to soften in a pot of water, and he is particular about keeping the potatoes fluffy. Salmon says maintaining the integrity of the core ingredients is key.

“I’ve seen some other places that have tried to like gild the lily,” he said. “But I’m used to having it on a paper plate with a packet of yellow mustard and a pack of saltines, and that’s the way I like it.”

Sean Fisher, chef at Mama’s on the Half Shell, also takes a special interest in the coddie, which he remembers having as a child when visiting his grandmother in Baltimore. She would make them herself and tell Fisher how she used to get them from candy stores in the ’20s for a couple of pennies each.

The coddie was one of the first items Fisher added to Mama’s menu, and just like Devine and Salmon, he serves them with saltines and mustard. He makes them similarly to the way his grandmother did, except he uses diced potatoes as opposed to mashed and rations the cake with more fish than what she did. Plus, he adds a bit of green onion for color.

“We keep it traditional at Mama’s because it’s a staple on the menu,” Fisher said. “We wanted to be a Baltimore chowder house, and we thought that would be the best staple, besides chowder of course.”

Fisher has tried messing around with a modernized version of the native treat— attempting fried codfish cake tacos at sister restaurant Nacho Mama’s—but customers are not fond of the change.

“People are drawn to it because of its simplicity,” he said. “Who doesn’t like a deep fried cod and potato cake served on saltine crackers with yellow mustard?”

Everyman Theatre is all about getting creative to elevate the experience of its productions. Now, in addition to launching collaborative screenings at the Parkway Theatre this season, the 27-year-old arts venue is partnering with the local food community to bring back its annual Taste of Everyman series.

“This is an opportunity to frame the theatre-going experience in a way that everyone can relate,” says Everyman’s director of marketing Michele Alexander, who was instrumental in launching the series. “When it comes to the shows, I like to find every way in.”

Now in its third year, the pre-show program offers theatre-goers local bites, beers, and cocktails that are all designed to complement the theme of each performance. This time around, the series will not only incorporate restaurants, but also area farms, markets, breweries, and bartenders.

“Localism is really engrained here,” Alexander says. “We like to spread our arms around the whole city when we can.”

The series kicks off on Thursday, September 14, with a tasting preceding the 7:30 p.m. main stage performance of David Henry Hwang’s M. Butterfly. As a nod to its title, the play’s pairings will focus on edible insects, with crispy critters (think  cricket-flour protein snacks and Chiridos) from MOM’s Organic Market, insect-infused cocktails from Clavel, and a talk with Eric Kelly of Charm City Farms about the benefits of eating and breeding bugs.

During the second installment on Thursday, October 26, the food pairings will mimic the motifs in Lynn Nottage’s Intimate Apparel—the story of an African-American seamstress living in New York City at the turn of the century, which premiered at Center Stage in 2003.

“The main character becomes a confidante for some of the other characters who are sharing some of their most intimate secrets and desires,” Alexander explains. “So we thought it would be great to highlight some of the top local foods that people really crave.”

To achieve this, Everyman consulted Baltimore blogger and resident food expert Amy Langrehr about some of her favorite dishes around the city.

“It actually took me a long time to think about,” Langrehr says. “But, ultimately, I just picked the top dishes that I would be really sad about if they went away. They’re the kind of things that I order over and over again. When I first ate them, I sat there, closed my eyes, and thought, ‘This is amazing.’”

Among the eats that Langrehr will feature during the “Classified Cravings” installment will include the tempura broccoli from Ekiben in Fells Point, the clam chowder from Dylan’s Oyster Cellar in Hampden, and the tuna tartare from Lobo in Fells Point. To sweeten the deal, the samplings will be paired with some of Langrehr’s favorite local beers from Union, Monument City, and The Brewer’s Art.

Closing out the year on Thursday, December 14, will be a special holiday-themed beverage competition inspired by Lauren Gunderson’s The Revolutionists, a comedy about four women living during the French Revolution. To pay homage to the play, the last segment of the year will pit female bartenders Chelsea Gregoire of Ida B’s Table, Pam Haner of W.C. Harlan, and Amie Ward of R. Bar against one another and also feature Marie Antoinette-style cakes sliced by the guillotine.

Taste of Everyman tickets cost $60, and include admission to each of the evening’s accompanying performances. Aside from sampling all of the quirky food tie-ins, Alexander says that she is looking forward to seeing the collaboration between the local food and arts communities.

“People are looking for something that’s unique,” she says. “It’s a win-win for those who are interested in the experience of food, which engages all of your senses, and people who are interested in theatre, which is meant to hit your head and your heart.”

When Dylan’s Oyster Cellar shuttered its subterranean pop-up in the heart of Mount Vernon in 2014, we feared for our stomachs, and our social lives. One of the first of its kind, the temporary space had quickly become a hip local favorite—more Brooklyn than Baltimore for its time—and we dreaded the loss of its Old World cocktails, ice-cold oysters, and fan-favorite house-cured sardines.

But now, with the local restaurant scene on the rise, the timing couldn’t be better for the opening of owner Dylan Salmon’s new permanent space. At the east end of The Avenue in Hampden, the cozy hangout returns with its same speakeasy style that beckoned you inside past the hand-painted, gold-leaf sign. With warm lighting, mosaic tile, and a musical medley of conversation and clinking glasses, prepare to be transported to 1920s Paris or New Orleans. 

Intimate and charming, the former flower shop has a fitting connection to Salmon—his wife, Irene, recently retired as a floral designer at Local Color Flowers in Charles Village. Now presiding over the front-of-the-house, she adorns the tables with fresh blossoms and even hand makes the earthy clay vases that hold them.

But besides the ambrosial setting, all traces of the former tenants are gone. From the moment it opened, Dylan’s has felt like a neighborhood haunt, its J-shaped bar always bustling as patrons gather for after-work snacks, full-on suppers, or boozy, late-night noshes (the raw bar is open until 2 a.m. on weekends). We’re obsessed with the thin-walled beer glasses that seem to somehow make the brews taste better, but we can’t resist the craft cocktails that look like mini pieces of art, or the worldly wine bottles that come half-priced on Tuesday nights. 

Whatever your poison, the bistro barstools award you a front-row seat to the master shuckers who artfully shell your oysters and clams. As a seasoned and competition-winning shucker himself, Salmon’s ever-evolving bivalve list highlights the best of both coasts with at least two local options, like Skinny Dippers from St. Mary’s County or Barren Islands from Hoopers Island. 

But Dylan’s Oyster Cellar is more than just an oyster bar. Curated by chef Karl Diehn, formerly of Woodberry Kitchen and Bottega, the simple menu is full of stunning dishes fit for both the seafood-averse and the adventure-seeking ostreaphile. With a smattering of small plates and a handful of entrees, each offering is an elevated take on seafood shack classics or midcentury American cuisine. 

On a recent visit, we savored a round of East Coast oysters and some Baltimore coddies—an age-old regional recipe, also known as the poor man’s crab cake. The crispy classic combines salty cod and mashed potatoes into a fried comfort food that’s best eaten between saltines with a smear of yellow mustard or, in this case, an addictive dijonaisse. 

Each offering is an elevated take on seafood shack classics or midcentury American cuisine.

While you’re there, consider the clams, which come four ways including on the half shell or roasted with butter and Parmesan. The scallop crudo was almost too pretty to eat, gently placed on its seashell with olive oil and herb blossoms.

For a second course, the crab imperial, served in a tin-foil crab shell atop a paper doily, was a beloved throwback, reminiscent of our grandmother’s cooking. The luscious lump crabmeat came broiled with little more than a wedge of lemon and we lapped up every last bite. The seasonal specials are also worthy, focusing on local produce and timely proteins, like the summery soft-crab sandwich topped with fresh tomato and homemade tartar. Just beware: Popular dishes do sell out.

But the star of the show—the dish that diners ogled over as it was whisked past their seat—was the whole rainbow trout. Butterflied, deboned, and swimming in a savory brown butter sauce, the pan-fried fish is a melt-in-your-mouth delicacy that’s reason enough to visit. Snap an Instagram and then follow Dylan’s on social media, as Irene updates the restaurant’s story with behind-the-scenes videos, nightly menu items, and the daily weather. 

With the lampposts lit along The Avenue and The Charmery dishing out the day’s final scoops of ice cream across the street (Dylan’s offers dessert on weekends only), we sat admiring the hustle and bustle of Hampden in a sort of intoxicated daze—be it from the aphrodisiacs, the booze, or both. 

Had we time-traveled à la Midnight in Paris? Hopefully not, because we plan to return soon. 

DYLAN’S OYSTER CELLAR 3601 Chestnut Ave., 443-853-1952.
HOURS Raw bar: Tue.-Thu. 4 p.m.-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 4 p.m.-2 a.m., Sun. 2-9 p.m. Kitchen: Tue.-Sat. 4-10 p.m., Sun. 2-8 p.m.
CUISINE Elevated seafood classics.
PRICES Appetizers: $2-21; entrees: $13-21.
ATMOSPHERE European bistro meets East Coast seafood shack.

OPEN

The Happy Grape: Workers in downtown’s central business district will no longer have to search high and low for a bottle of wine on their way home, now that the owners of Water Street Tavern have opened this quaint 1000-square foot wine shop next door to their restaurant. The Happy Grape, which debuted earlier this month, currently specializes in beer and wine, but local spirits and gourmet cheeses will soon be added to the menu. 104 Water St., 410-605-9495

Katana: It’s hard not to fall in love with Canton, which is why Jimmy Chang, owner of Katana, decided to open a new sushi joint there. With a full bar, extensive sushi menu, and other Japanese cuisine, consider Katana for a quick lunch with friends or a night out. The lunch plates like chicken teriyaki or shrimp tempura start at $9.95, so a midday snack with co-workers doesn’t have to hurt your wallet. 845 S. Montford Ave., 410-522-7100

Magdalena: Housed in a Mt. Vernon mansion, restaurant Magdalena will be opening inside the luxurious Ivy Hotel. During the restaurant’s soft opening, featured items include Chesapeake soft-shell crab, fillet of Alaskan halibut, and cheese and shiitake tortellini. The full menu will feature global cuisine and is scheduled to unveil in the coming weeks. 205 E. Biddle St., 443-503-4501

OPENING SOON

The Brass Elephant: Closed since 2009, this Baltimore classic was recently purchased by husband and wife Steven and Linda Rivelis. The duo was married at Brass Elephant and intends to update the restaurant with a global menu inspired by their 60-day trip around the world. Despite renovations and changes, the restaurant will pay homage to the Charm City staple it once was. The Rivelis have not yet released the new name of the restaurant, though it is rumored that it will be opening as The Elephant. 924 N. Charles St.

Dylan’s Oyster Cellar: You’ll no longer need to track the whereabouts of local pop-up personality Dylan Salmon when cravings for oysters strike. The seafood connoisseur has found a permanent home for this quaint raw bar at 3446 Chestnut Ave. in Hampden. Salmon’s previous shucking gigs include fleeting appearances at W.C. Harlan, Blue Pit BBQ, and The Hatch, an underground Mt. Vernon space operated by Phil Han of Dooby’s that hosts extended pop-ups. His new spot, which is slated to open in October, will offer raw and fried oysters, and specialize in bean-inspired dishes. 3446 Chestnut Ave.

Loch Bar: Authentic Maryland seafood is slated to come any day now at the Loch Bar. Atlas Restaurant Group’s newest addition will feature a raw bar, local craft beers, and a 50-year-old recipe for Maryland crab soup from the owner’s grandmother. 200 International Dr.

EXPANDING

Ropewalk OC: Lively last-call sing-a-longs and vintage décor make Ropewalk Tavern one of Federal Hill’s most coveted bars. The Ropewalk brand made its way to the Eastern Shore two years ago with the opening of a location in Fenwick Island, and earlier this month a third restaurant made its debut on 83rd St. in Ocean City. The new space features a massive deck overlooking the bay, a waterfront bar, and an outdoor stage that allows for live entertainment during happy hour. There’s no better time to head downee ocean for classic seafood dishes like crab cakes and shrimp mac-and-cheese. 8203 Coastal Highway, Ocean City, 410-524-1009

Wit & Wisdom: As if dining along Baltimore’s waterfront and enjoying a cocktail as the sun sets doesn’t seem lovely enough, Wit & Wisdom’s patio—known as Wit on the Water—has expanded to offer more outdoor dining options in Harbor East. Enjoy the raw bar, a new cocktail menu, and a smoker for barbecue. Throughout the summer Wit on the Water will play host to live entertainment on Thursdays and Sundays, and the new outdoor kitchen has prompted a pig roast on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. You can also relax with bottomless rosé on Thursdays and bottomless mimosas every Sunday. 200 International Dr., Baltimore, 410-576-5800

CH-CH-CHANGES

Joe Squared: The Station North location of beloved Joe Squared is moving from its original home on North Avenue to a bigger space just down the street. The new restaurant will feature the same great menu, with expanded seating options and a bigger area for performances. So don’t panic if you don’t see Joe Squared at the normal locale this fall, just walk a few blocks down the street and follow the smell of pizza. 133 W. North Ave., 410-545-0444

SHUT

Miguel’s Cocina y Cantina: Owner Michael Marx, who previously owned Blue Agave in Federal Hill, announced earlier this week that Miguel’s, his Locust Point cantina, has closed its doors for good. It’s been reported that the reason for the closure was lease-related. No word yet on what will become of the space, which has been serving up authentic Mexican fare since opening in 2010. 1200 Stuart St.