OPEN

Peter’s Inn: We’ve been waiting to move this one into the “open” category for a while now. Nearly one year after a trash fire severely damaged the Fells Point staple, husband-and-wife owners Bud and Karin Tiffany quietly reopened their rowhouse restaurant Tuesday. In the months since the fire, the owners—who live in the apartment above the space—have worked tirelessly to get back on their feet. But roadblocks with insurance, permitting, and reconstruction delayed the reopening date several times.

Now, we’re happy to report that the 23-year-old spot is officially back at it, serving Karin’s signature dishes like burrata with roasted peaches, pan-seared scallops served over lentils, filet mignon with green beans, and, of course, the classic herby garlic bread. The owners are appreciative of the support from the neighborhood, which raised more than $20,000 for the rebuild via GoFundMe last summer. “It’s humbling,” Bud recently told us. “When you’re doing the day-to-day tasks of running the business, sometimes you don’t realize how many people you’ve come in contact with over the years. The outpouring of support has been tremendous.” 504 S. Ann St. 410-675-7313

Red Emma’s: The city’s favorite worker-owned bookstore/cafe has officially settled in its new Midtown digs. Red Emma’s originated in a cozy shop on St. Paul Street in 2004, and moved to a larger space on North Avenue in 2013. Now, the collective has relocated to the two-level building that formerly housed Spike & Charlie’s on Cathedral Street across from the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra. The new spot will allow Red Emma’s to double the size of its bookstore and offer seated dining, while still providing space for its readings, film screenings, panel discussions, and spoken word performances. The shop will soft open this Thursday-Saturday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., before debuting regular hours later this month. 1225 Cathedral St.

Zuzu’s Gourmet Donuts: Federal Hill locals have most likely caught a glimpse of this purple- and orange-painted storefront situated next to 101 on South Charles Street. Though Zuzu’s signage has been on display for a while now, the donut shop officially opened its doors for the first time last week. Named after owner Hak Zubar, the carry-out spot offers ice cream, sandwiches, smoothies, and fresh-pressed juices, but the real highlights on the menu are the house-made donuts. Creative flavors include strawberry delight, pineapple upside-down, honey double dip, and a savory “Oriole” donut garnished with lump crab and Old Bay. 1136 S. Charles St.

COMING SOON

New Cross Street Market Vendors: Just across the street from the new donut shop, Cross Street Market—which remains open during construction—recently announced a partial lineup of vendors that will occupy the space once it is fully renovated this spring. In 2019, the market will house legacy purveyors Fenwick’s Choice Meats, Nunnally Bros., Steve’s Lunch, and The Sweet Shoppe, while also welcoming an array of new producers. Among them are Annapolis-based Ceremony Coffee Roasters, a burger concept from the owners of Southside Diner, Vietnamese pho and banh mi pop-up Phubs, rice bowl maker Rice Crook, Haitian-Caribbean purveyor SoBeachy, and Cockeysville-based barbecue joint Smoke. The multi-million dollar revitalization is expected to yield floor-to-ceiling windows, indoor and outdoor seating for 500, and a retro aesthetic that harkens back to the 1950s—when the historic market was first reborn in its current configuration after a fire burned down the original facility. 1065 S. Charles St.

NEWS

Seawall Redeveloping Lexington Market: Speaking of public markets, the city’s oldest recently announced that it has chosen Seawall Development to lead its $40 million proposed renovation. While architectural designs are still in the works, goals for the overhaul include right-sizing the market, incorporating clean energy features, and remaining faithful to the history of the building. Seawall, well known for its design of R. House and Union Collective, plans to gather community input before officially breaking ground in late 2019. “Lexington Market is the city’s market and every stakeholder—vendors, patrons, and neighbors—matters,” said Seawall partner Thibault Manekin in a press release. “We are beyond honored to have been selected and we look forward to working with the entire city to help transform the market.” 400 W. Lexington St.

John Shields Scholarship Fund Established: At Gertrude’s 20th anniversary celebration earlier this week, friends of the Chesapeake-inspired restaurant collectively donated nearly $10,000 to the newly established John Shields Culinary Arts Internship and Scholarship Fund. The money will support paid internships for junior and senior high school students, while also providing scholarships for local graduates hoping to pursue a degree in culinary arts. Founded in honor of Gertrude’s beloved chef/owner Shields, the program hopes to raise $100,000 in the coming year to support as many aspiring young chefs as possible.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

10/4: Free Tacos at Taco Noche
In honor of National Taco Day, this brand new food stand at The Rotunda in Hampden is giving away free tacos with any carry-out purchase. Stroll up to the eatery to sample chef Audiel Vera’s Northern Mexican-style snacks including brisket nachos with sour cream and queso fresco, barbacoa mac and cheese, and the “Red Eye” burrito filled with pico de gallo and refried beans. 711 W. 40th St.

10/5: Big Softy Pop-Up at Ground & Griddled
We’ve seen Big Softy owner Craig Falk sling soft shells at R. House before, but this week, he is planning a special brunch menu in collaboration Ground & Griddled inside the food hall. Swing by from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. to sample Falk’s crabby spin on G&G’s classic pancakes, bacon, and egg sandwiches. 301 W. 29th St.

10/11: Taste of Hampden
This annual foodie fundraiser benefiting the Hampden Family Center returns next week at its new venue, Union Collective. Stroll around to sample bites from eateries on the Avenue and beyond including Luigi’s Italian Deli, Dylan’s Oyster Cellar, Five & Dime Ale House, Frazier’s, Holy Frijoles, Wicked Sisters, Ma Petite Shoe, Rocket to Venus, Common Ground, The Food Market, The Charmery, and Blue Pit BBQ. Of course, there will also be plenty of Union brews to go around. All ticket proceeds will benefit the center’s numerous classes, programs, and support services for residents of all ages. 1700 W. 41st St. 6-9 p.m. $50

As dawn breaks over 32nd Street on Saturday mornings, Waverly Farmers’ Market vendors set up their booths and prepare to greet the wave of early risers in search of gourmet goods. Though the market sees plenty of new faces from week to week, one patron guaranteed to be there is restaurateur John Shields.

“He’s there every Saturday morning,” says Joan Norman of One Straw Farm in White Hall. “Those are my earliest memories of him. He would come at 7 a.m. and go shopping. And he still does, it hasn’t changed in 15 years.”

As an acclaimed chef, author, and television personality, Shields has become a local celebrity at the market, where he collects the week’s produce for his restaurant Gertrude’s—newly renamed Gertrude’s Chesapeake Kitchen—inside The Baltimore Museum of Art (BMA).

“Going to the Waverly market with him is like walking the streets with the Godfather,” says Gertrude’s executive chef Doug Wetzel, who has worked at the restaurant for 11 years. “People are always coming up to say hi and pay their respects.”

Making use of local crops (including chard, cabbage, eggplant, tomatoes, and peppers from Norman at One Straw Farm) has been an essential part of Gertrude’s mission since it opened in 1998. Norman credits Shields as being one of the earliest founders of the farm-to-table movement in Baltimore.

“John was doing it for the benefit of his customers,” she says. “He was very proud of Maryland and the heritage of the food that we had here, and he shares that love through his restaurant.”

Now, as it celebrates its 20-year anniversary, Gertrude’s sustainable mantra is still alive and well—though Shields and Wetzel are also making it a priority to change with the times with a revamped menu.

To celebrate the milestone, the spot is hosting a sold-out anniversary party next week featuring live storytelling by its fans including BMA director Chris Bedford, MacArthur genius Joyce Scott, and our own Librarian of Congress Carla Hayden.

Additionally, the team will be rolling out a new fall menu inspired by Shields’ latest cookbook The New Chesapeake Kitchen, which compiles healthy recipes that are also environmentally conscious.

“We need to have a whole new look at the way we eat. A lot of the fish that we used to have in the bay aren’t here,” Shields tells us. “Some of the protein is so precious that we can’t eat it the way we used to. Then we have some species that weren’t here before. We have to take a snapshot of now.”

New items will include a crab-artichoke poutine; all-crab cakes that make use of backfin, claw, and jumbo meat; and a take on classic Baltimore coddies that mix potato with salted Blue Channel catfish—an invasive species that eats crab eggs.

“We’re adding a bunch of plant-focused meals,” Wetzel says. “But also really cherishing the Chesapeake classics and making sure we sell what we know everyone likes.”

Throughout the years, weddings and social events on Gertrude’s picturesque patio, which overlooks the BMA Sculpture Garden, have also become popular with the younger generation.

“It’s really a testament to what John started here,” Wetzel says. “We helped showcase some of these recipes that got lost in the history of Chesapeake cuisine, and I think the younger kids like knowing about the older stuff. They seem to like knowing about the history of rockfish imperial and single-fried oysters.”

Norman says that, in addition to the food (she credits Gertrude’s brunch as one of the best she has ever had), the restaurant’s charm lies in its inviting atmosphere.

“There’s a light, happy vibe that is always there—not intrusive or overwhelming,” she says. “It’s a happy place, kind of like John Shields himself.”

For his part, Wetzel has always appreciated that Gertrude’s has broken the mold of the typical museum restaurant, attracting both art and food enthusiasts alike.

“It’s funny. When I first learned it was a museum restaurant, I didn’t want to apply,” Wetzel says. “But I don’t feel like we’re a restaurant in a museum, really. You have this preconceived idea of what that is and then you come here and you’re like, ‘Oh shit. This is just really good food.’”

More than 20 years ago, long before farm-to-table became a catchphrase, there was John Shields, who traveled up and down the Chesapeake Bay meeting with oystermen, fishermen, and growers, and helped define modern-day Mid-Atlantic cuisine.

With the release of his latest cookbook, The New Chesapeake Kitchen, the veteran author and owner of the newly named Gertrude’s Chesapeake Kitchen is once again reimagining regional fare, not only because the bay has changed, but because he has changed.

“Seven years ago, I had a heart attack,” say Shields. “I had to be really mindful of what I was eating. That got me thinking about how we’ve eaten for thousands of years, and it has been primarily a plant-forward diet.”

To that end, he calls the recipes in his new book both “bay- and body-friendly.” We sat down with Shields to talk about his latest venture, how he got his start in the field, and keeping company with John Waters.

Why did you want to write this book?
The idea for The New Chesapeake Kitchen came about 10 or 12 years ago. I started making notes of what I was eating and where I bought it, and I asked myself if what I was purchasing was benefiting the community. Also, I don’t want to sound morose, but it’s the thing I want to leave—it’s my legacy.

Where did the book’s name come from?
I looked at what went wrong and where we are and what could possibly be a vision for the 21st century. We have to keep one foot in the past to see our way forward, but we need to have a whole new look at the way we eat—a lot of the fish that we used to have in the bay aren’t here. Some of the protein is so precious that we can’t eat it the way we used to. Then we have some species that weren’t here before. We have to take a snapshot of now.

How do you want people to use the book?
It’s a cookbook, and there are a lot of fun recipes, but I also hope that they notice the way it’s put together. I’ve separated the recipes by cooking techniques because I think it takes us back to the idea of plant forward. The idea is to stretch the protein. If we made crab cakes, that could be $60 a pound right now, which would feed three people. But if you turn it into soup, you could make something that is quintessentially Chesapeake and feeds eight to 10 people. It’s bay- and body-friendly.

Why did you thank your cardiologist, Sonia Baker, in the dedication to the book?
There were some not-great things happening with my heart, and I was having a hard time finishing the book. She said to me, ‘Now, listen, it’s a book. How many of these have you done? Just finish it up—you know how to write a cookbook.’

Why did you want to be a chef?
I was working at some clubs in Cape Cod playing the piano. I was with John Waters’ repertory company—we are still friends. A friend of mine, who was a sous chef at the Provincetown Inn, broke his ankle. He said, ‘Hon, you have to go up and cook tonight.’ They brought out these big mesh bags of garlic. I had never seen a whole head of garlic in my life—I was Catholic. That’s really how I started cooking. There was no thought at all.

---

Recipe: Crispy Rockfish Tacos

This is some of the Chesapeake’s plant-forward eating at its best. A whole slew of wonderful vegetables coming together, all wrapped in a warm corn tortilla, with crispy pieces of the Bay’s favorite finfish, the rock—a.k.a. striped—bass. This dish works well for a party if you set up a taco station with all the ingredients, allowing guests to make their own. Serves 4.

Ingredients

• 1 pound rockfish filet
• 1 cup flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon cumin
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• ½ teaspoon chipotle powder
• ½ teaspoon paprika
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• Oil for frying
• 8 fresh small corn tortillas

Lime-Jicama Slaw

• 1 cup shredded cabbage
• ½ cup shredded jicama
• ¼ cup chopped green onion
• ¼ cup julienned carrots
• 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
• ¼ cup mayonnaise
• Juice of 1 lime

Avocado Cream

• 2 ripe avocados
• ½ cup sour cream
• Juice of ½ lime
• Pinch of ground cumin
• Salt, to taste

Directions

In a bowl, combine the cabbage, jicama, green onion, carrots, and cilantro. In another small bowl, combine the mayo and lime juice. Pour over the top of the vegetable mixture, tossing to coat well. Refrigerate for one hour before serving.

Cut the rockfish filets into 1½-inch chunks. In a bowl, mix the flour with the salt, cumin, garlic powder, chipotle powder, paprika, cayenne, and black pepper and blend well. Heat oil to a depth of 1½ inches until quite hot. Dust the rockfish pieces with the flour mixture and shake off excess. In batches, fry fish until golden brown and cooked through. Remove the pieces of fish with a slotted utensil and allow to drain on paper towels.

While cooking fish, heat a dry (not oiled) cast-iron skillet and warm the tortillas for about 30 seconds on each side. Wrap tortillas in a damp towel and keep warm while heating the rest of the tortillas. To assemble the tacos, place a spoonful of slaw in the center of each tortilla, followed by several pieces of fish and a dollop of Avocado Cream. Remove the skin and pit from the avocados and place the flesh a bowl. Mash the avocado and then add the remaining ingredients.

Garnish with a teaspoon of salsa, plus radish. Serve lime wedges on the side.

This excerpt is taken from The New Chesapeake Kitchen by John Shields. Published by Johns Hopkins University Press © 2018. Reprinted by permission of the publisher.

Back in December, the Gay Lesbian Community Center of Baltimore (GLCCB) put out a request for locals to send in their ideas for the theme of this year’s Baltimore Pride celebration. Of all the submissions, the one that stood out most to committee members was “United We Shine.”

“It’s representative of everything we stand for,” says LaKesha Davis, Pride coordinator with the GLCCB. “Even though there is still room to grow within the community, as long as we remain united, we will continue to shine.”

The inclusive theme will permeate to every aspect of the celebration—happening June 16-17—which officially moved its annual Saturday-afternoon block party from Mt. Vernon to the Station North Arts District last year.

The parade route has shifted slightly this year. Instead of beginning in Mt. Vernon, it will step off from East 33rd Street in Charles Village at 1 p.m. and head south on Charles Street—descending into the block party on East 23rd Street in Station North. The decision to switch up the route was sparked by concerns of traffic congestion from last year’s parade, which ended on North Avenue.

Davis says that the new route is not only practical, but also symbolic. Revelers will march through Charles Village, where the GLCCB originated in 1977, and descend into Pride’s new home.

“We try to find a way to make things better every year,” Davis explains.

Parade day celebrations will include the annual high-heel races and a new pet parade, as well as live entertainment by Chance The Rapper’s kid brother Taylor Bennett, hip-hop goddess Miami Tip, our own club queen TT The Artist, and The Voice runner-up Davon Fleming.

As in previous years, the fun continues on Sunday at Druid Hill Park with a festival showcasing local vendors, live DJ entertainment, eats and drinks, and a performance by headliner Tish Hyman. The Druid Hill festival is also home to the GLCCB’s Elder Pride and Family Pride programs, which will offer kid-friendly activities led by The Walters Art Museum and the Maryland Zoo this year.

After months of hard work organizing the event, which attracted nearly 30,000 people last summer, Davis says she’s eager to see the community come together.

“I would love to see the whole community stand together and be represented as a whole,” she says, “because that’s how we get things done. We have to remain united in order to make things happen.”

In keeping with this year’s theme, establishments all over town are hosting a number of rainbow-inspired events to celebrate Pride month. Here are a few to mark on your calendar:

6/13: Wine’d Up Wednesday
Kick off Pride Week at this annual fundraiser for the GLCCB, which serves more than 800 individuals per month with its various programs. Gather with other supporters to sip wines, snack on hors d’oeuvres, and bid on silent auction items at Flavor in Mt. Vernon. 15 E. Centre St. 6-10 p.m. $40. 443-569-2279

6/13: Laugh Out Loud

If you’re in need of some mid-week laughs, head to The Motor House for this upbeat comedy show featuring sets by local entertainers Michael Furr, Ruby Darling, Violet Gray, and Jezabelle Von Jane. The evening will be hosted by Baltimore “boylesque” icon Tommy Gunn. The Motor House, 120 W. North Ave. 7-9 p.m. $20. 410-637-8300

6/15: Twilight on the Terrace
For more than a decade, this candlelit fundraiser at Gertrude’s inside the Baltimore Museum of Art has provided an ideal jump-start to Pride weekend with eats, drinks, and dancing under the stars. Enjoy signature gin cocktails and bites by Gertrude’s while rubbing elbows with special guests like The Voice’s Fleming and Mayor Catherine Pugh. 10 Art Museum Drive. 7-11 p.m. $125. 410-889-3399

6/16: Parade Day Party at The Baltimore Eagle
Located in the epicenter of Saturday’s festivities, The Baltimore Eagle in Station North will be a headquarters for revelers on parade day. The bar is throwing a rainbow rager featuring food and drink deals, and live DJs spinning in multiple rooms all day and night. Experience the epic dance parties in style with The Eagle’s VIP package that gets you no-cover access and a free tank top. The Baltimore Eagle, 2022 N. Charles St. 11 a.m.- 2 a.m. Covers range from $5-15 throughout the day. 410-200-9858

6/23: Pride Double Feature at the Parkway
The SNF Parkway Theatre’s new family-friendly film series, Generation Parkway, continues with a special Pride installment later this month. The Pride outreach event starts with a showing of Beauty and the Beast at 1:30 p.m., and continues with Howard—a documentary about Baltimore-born theater musician Howard Ashman, who wrote some of Disney’s most iconic scores. 5 W. North Ave., 1:30 p.m. $8-14. 410-752-8083

6/23: Pride Art Exhibit and Drink Deals at Hotel Revival
In the heart of Mt. Vernon, celebrate Pride by taking in a live exhibit by local artist Jasjyot Singh Hans. Hans will be auctioning off three pieces, with 50 percent of the proceeds being donated to Hearts and Ears—a local organization that supports individuals in the LGBTQ community with behavioral health issues and concerns. Be sure to head upstairs to Topside to sip special Pride cocktails, including the $11 “So Fresh, So Green,” made with Absolut Pride, mint-tea syrup, lime shrub, soda, and a mint garnish. The bar will also feature DC Brau’s Pride Pils, and Bells Brewery’s Sparkleberry ale for $5. Hotel Revival, 101 W. Monument St., 5-7 p.m. 410-727-7101.

6/27: LGBT Pride Night at Camden Yards
There will be some rainbow flair mixed in to the usual sea of orange at Camden Yards on Wednesday, June 27. The Orioles are offering a Pride-inspired ticket package for the evening’s game against the Seattle Mariners, including a special O’s Pride cap with rainbow embroidery. A portion of the ticket sales will be donated to Moveable Feast, a local charity that provides meals to locals living with HIV/AIDS and other life-threatening illnesses. 333 W. Camden St., 7:05 p.m. $70.

6/29: Baltimore Bike Party Pride Ride
This monthly bike trek is celebrating accordingly with a rainbow ride throughout the city. Pump up your tires and throw on some colorful garb to pedal around before descending into Highlandtown for an official after party at Old Line Spirits—complete with cocktails and beers from neighboring Monument City Brewing Company. Route details TBD. 6:30-11:30 p.m. Free.

The sharing economy isn’t going away anytime soon—in fact, it’s making its way to our plates. Though the ritual of sharing a meal is ancient, restaurants are now bringing it to the forefront, offering specially curated, large-format meals for two or more on their menus. 

Experiencing a shared meal “is the way you should eat,” says Birroteca owner Robbin Haas. “You should eat where you can engage with everyone at the table. And food is a great denominator for breaking down barriers and making it easy to open a conversation.”

According to a new study in Appetite, a behavioral science research journal, sharing food makes you a better person. Those who share meals more often may be more likely to exhibit altruistic behaviors, like volunteering and giving up your seat on public transportation. So go ahead and grab dinner with friends—it’s your civic duty.

Samos Restaurant
This Greektown taverna gives diners a feel for its namesake island with a Tour of Samos so massive that it will have you saying “opa!” at your table. Think: Greek salad, tzatziki and pita, fried calamari, spinach pie, chicken souvlaki, dolmades, lamb chops, garlic shrimp, gyro, and roasted potatoes. 600 Oldham St., 410-675-5292

Birroteca
At this Hampden hangout, the menu of small plates, bruschettas, and pizzas gives even more ways to share with family-style platters like Crispy Duck Agro Dolce, whole fishes, and classic Spaghetti con Polpette (meatballs). 1520 Clipper Road, 443-708-1934

Gertrude’s at the BMA
For a sweeter way to share, check out Gertrude’s afternoon tea, complete with crab beignets, apricot scones with Devonshire cream, lemon curd, and strawberry jam, as well as chocolate mousse with salted caramel. 10 Art Museum Dr., 410-889-3399

Rec Pier Chop House
The Rec Pier Chop House inside Kevin Plank’s Sagamore Pendry Baltimore hotel is getting in on the act with a whopping 44-ounce porterhouse and a 38-ounce Tomahawk Chop for two. 1715 Thames St., 443-552-1300

Thames Street Oyster House
Both the 5-pound stuffed Maine lobster (stuffed with scallops, shrimp, and crab) and the New England clam and lobster boil bring diners together for an experience reminiscent of a sandy clambake on the coast of Rhode Island, where executive chef Eric Houseknecht spent his summers while still in culinary school. Don’t miss Meat Monday, when Houseknecht prepares family-style dishes for those who prefer land over sea, including 3 pounds of braised meat, and even a whole pig leg. 1728 Thames St., 443-449-7726

Tio Pepe
Fans of this old-school Spanish eatery won’t be disappointed with either of its Para Dos selections, including a roasted rack of baby lamb served with mint jelly, or the Paella a la Valenciana, brimming with fruits of the land and sea. 10 E. Franklin St., 410-539-4675

Wicked Sisters
The Meals for Two dishes at this Hampden newcomer take a nod from a traditional, family-style American Sunday dinner, such as a half-roasted chicken with potatoes, carrots, celery, and onions. “The plate is put between the two of you and then you can fight over it to get the part of it you want,” explains co-owner Charlie Gjerde. What’s a good family supper without at least one argument? 3845 Falls Road, 410-878-0884

Whether you’re a serious water lover, a gung-ho gardener, or a fan of the forest, the Baltimore area is a great place to dine alfresco. So head to one of these standout spots and enjoy your moment in the sun.

For the Patron of the Arts

Gertrude’s Restaurant: There’s outdoor dining, and then there’s the flagstone terrace at Gertrude’s. Painterly plates, such as Gertie’s crab cakes and grilled rockfish, pair perfectly with Henry Moore and Auguste Rodin sculptures. 10 Art Museum Dr., 410-889-3399.

For the Green Thumbs

Ladew Café: With one of the top topiary gardens in the world as your backdrop, feast en plein air on house-made chicken salad and enjoy the groomed gardens once visited by the likes of Charlie Chaplin and Somerset Maugham. 3535 Jarrettsville Pike, Monkton, 410-557-9570.

Woodberry Kitchen: Dine at the herb-filled patio out front. 2010 Clipper Park Road, 410-464-8000

The Turn House: This new HoCo spot, situated on the bucolic Hobbit’s Glen Golf Course, hits a hole-in-one with its inventive farm-to-table cuisine, covered patio offering weatherproof outdoor dining and heat lamps, and a chef (Thomas Zippelli) who worked at the Michelin-starred The French Laundry and Eleven Madison Park before bringing it back to his native Howard County. 11130 Willow Bottom Dr., Columbia, 410-740-2096

For the Craft Beer Aficionado

RAR Brewing: When the temps top out, RAR Brewing raises its retractable garage doors. It’s a known fact that everything—from designer dogs to tater tots—tastes that much better when you let the sun shine in. 504 Poplar St., Cambridge, 443-225-5664.

Blue Pit BBQ & Whiskey Bar: Quaff a cold one and a plate of meat and fixins on the restaurant’s back deck. 1601 Union Ave., 443-948-5590.

For the Urbanite

Tapas Teatro: There’s nothing like watching the street scene while tasting tapas and chilling out over sangria at this beloved Station North cafe. 1711 N. Charles St., 410-332-0110.

Clavel: Grab a crock of queso fundido and seat yourself at a peach picnic table in Remington. 225 W 23rd St., 443-900-8983.

For the Water Lover

Barcocina: It’s hard to beat the picturesque Fells Point harbor views and potent house-made margaritas.1629 Thames St., 410-563-8800.

Boatyard Bar & Grill: This Naptown nook with colorful red umbrellas and killer crab cakes is minutes from the marina and the perfect perch for people-watching—here, you’ll see fishermen, Naval Academy midshipmen, tourists, and locals alike. Severn Avenue and Fourth Street, Annapolis, 410-216-6206

Citron: It took years for the natural rainwater to fill the old quarry in Pikesville. At 500 feet, it’s now the deepest body of water in the state and a sanctuary for geese, ducks, and all manner of flora and fauna. You’ll understand why it was worth the wait as you sit on the patio snacking on tuna tartare at Charles Levine’s contemporary fine-dining venture. 2605 Quarry Lake Drive, Pikesville, 410-363-0900

Cosima: The rushing waters of the Jones Falls, an herb garden filled with rosemary and thyme, a flute of Proseco, and sexy Sicilian noodle dishes spell an ambiance that’s perfect for a little romance. 3000 Falls Road, 443-708-7352

For the Seafood Lover

Loch Bar: Take a front-row seat at this Chesapeake seafood bar and watch the boats bob in the Patapsco. Order a shot of one of the many rare whiskeys on hand, then toast to the inexplicable alchemy of sun, stars, and seafood towers. 240 International Dr., 443-961-8949

Ryleigh’s Oyster: So many outdoor spots in the ’burbs offer nothing but a view of a parking lot. Not so at the suburban outpost of this beloved Baltimore institution. With its hedges and white Adirondack chairs, think Lutherville-Timonium meets the Eastern Shore. 22 W. Padonia Road, Hunt Valley, 410-539-2093

For the Equestrian

The Oregon Grille: Smack dab in the middle of Hunt Valley’s horse country, this well-heeled spot boasts that miles-from-the-city feel. As you take in the natural world, consider a simple Cobb salad or a glass of Sauvignon Blanc from the deep wine list. 1201 Shawan Road, 410-771-0505

Manor Tavern: Gaze at the stars at this equine-themed spot. 15819 Old York Road, 410-771-8155.

The Valley Inn: This bustling Brooklandville tavern boasts a sylvan setting and a patio that’s the perfect place for sipping champagne on tap. 10501 Falls Road, 410-828-0002

The Milton Inn: This historic inn (where John Wilkes Booth learned his A, B, C’s) recently underwent a $400,000 renovation, including the addition of a new patio and a pergola with a retractable roof. 14833 York Road, Sparks, 410-771-4366

Gertrude’s owner John Shields has spent a lifetime devoting his career to crabs and all incarnations of Maryland seafood. “I was born in Baltimore at 25th and Greenmount,” he says, “and I started cooking with my grandmother Gertie at St. Ann’s church in the basement. We’d go to all the municipal markets and there was fresh fish everywhere.” And summers were spent on Eastern Shore workboats and crab boats, where Shields’ great uncle ran the Tilghman Island seafood-packing plant.

Shields writes about those experiences and more in the 25th anniversary edition of his cookbook, Chesapeake Bay Cooking, due out this fall. We talked to the chef about his transition from the Bay Area to Chesapeake Bay, what to expect in his cookbook, and his time spent picking crabs on Tilghman Island.

You had a French restaurant in Berkeley, CA in the early ’80s called A La Carte. How did you go from French fare to Chesapeake cuisine?
I was rolling out pastry one day, and suddenly it came to me: “Do what you love, do what you miss,”—and that was Chesapeake Bay cuisine. For my first shipment, I went to the San Francisco airport in my Toyota Corolla, and there was a palette of these big airfreight containers packed with crabmeat, oysters, and rockfish. I had to unpack the containers and just stuff everything in the car because I didn’t have a truck. I literally had oysters on the floor of my car up to the window on the passenger side. After that, no one would ever ride in my car again.

The 25th anniversary edition of Chesapeake Bay Cooking is due out this fall. What was the book’s genesis?
The publisher of a boutique cookbook company came in to my restaurant, Gertie’s Chesapeake Bay Café, all the time. He’d ask me, “Have you ever though about doing a book on the Chesapeake cooking? There’s no definitive book.” I was like, “I’m running a restaurant.” For months, he’d come in asking. Finally, I took a sabbatical, drove my VW Beetle across the country, and went around the Chesapeake to write the book.

What’s your favorite anecdote from researching your book?
On Tilghman Island, I was in this room with women who had just finished picking crab. One picker said to me, “Exactly what are you doing here?” And I said, “I’m writing a book on the cuisine of the Chesapeake.” She said, “We don’t have a cuisine here—it’s just the way we cook.” That’s what it’s all about—taking the best that the bay has to offer, and treating it simply.

When Capt. John Smith first sailed on the Chesapeake, he had diaries and he wrote that “the fish in the bay were so thick, we attempted to catch them with frying pans.” That’s what Chesapeake Bay cooking is—taking it fresh from the water right into the frying pan and onto your plate.

So you’re a crab-cracking expert, then?
Of course. When you’re born here, you’re genetically predisposed to being able to crack a crab.

If you could share one thing about Maryland seafood with someone visiting the state for the first time, what would you want them to know?
There’s way more to Maryland seafood than crabs. Most people think that crabs are the only thing in the bay, but we also have oysters, rockfish, shad, shad roe, clams, perch and more.