The environs of Broadway and Eastern in Fells Point are the epicenter of tacos in Baltimore, with three classic taquerías, one taco truck, and a taquería that’s also a high-production tortilleria all within a few hundred yards of each other.

Head a little further down Broadway, though, and you’ll find a new, more formal Mexican restaurant, where you can not only get stellar tacos, but a more expansive menu, a full cocktail bar with a happy hour—and a weekend brunch that features tres leches brioche French toast, steak and eggs with poblano chimichurri, and mezcal espresso martinis.

La Calle, which means “the street” in Spanish, is not so much a new restaurant as a relocated one; it first opened downtown in 2018, closed four years later—another casualty of the pandemic—and moved to Fells last summer.

Originally opened by the four Sandoval brothers—Luis, Agustin, Odilon, and Valentino—La Calle is now owned and operated by just Luis and Agustin, as Odilon moved to Philadelphia to open a Mexican pizzeria and Valentino opened one of those taquerías on Eastern, Bmore Taquería.

The Sandovals are from Puebla, a city southeast of Mexico City with a vibrant culinary tradition. Puebla is the home of tacos árabes (tacos al pastor on flour tortillas); chiles en nogada, considered Mexico’s national dish; and mole poblano, a rich, brick-colored sauce made of ancho chiles and chocolate, among many ingredients.

Mole is at the heart of La Calle’s menu: It smothers the enchiladas and the chilaquiles, forms the base of the pollo con mole, where roast chicken is perched atop panela cheese and a vast circle of mole, and is brushed across both the duck confit and the short-rib tacos.

“It’s been with us for two generations,” says Luis Sandoval of the mole recipe. “There’s over 30 ingredients in that sauce,” he says. “If you talk to someone from Oaxaca, they’re gonna say that they have the best mole. For us, mole poblano is the best.”

La Calle’s white-walled, minimalist dining room is a sanctuary compared to the bars lining the nearby waterfront, with service more suggestive of a white-tablecloth-dining establishment than a taquería.

And that pollo con mole looks as good as it tastes, with micro-cilantro adorning the artfully constructed chicken and the accompanying red rice bestowed in a pretty white bowl. The ceviches are also first-rate and gorgeous, particularly an aquachile of raw fluke, a perfect brunoise of mango, batards of crunchy jicama, and slivers of red onion in a golden pool of passion fruit sauce that is somehow both tart and soothing.

Chef Miguel A. Hernandez took over the stoves at the original La Calle when Valentino left and added many of the dishes, including that aquachile, a whole branzino with pipian sauce, and cochinita pibil, a classic dish of slow-roasted, citrus-marinated pork. Hernandez is family, too; he’s a cousin of the Sandoval brothers and is also from Puebla.

The mole, says Hernadez, has always been on the menu—as is fitting of such a glorious, generational recipe.

LA CALLE: 623 S. Broadway, Fells Point. 443-835- 2215. HOURS: Mon.-Thurs. 4-10 p.m.; Fri. 4-10:30 p.m.; Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 4-10:30 p.m.; Sun. 11-3 p.m., 4-9 p.m. PRICES: Starters: $6-20; ceviches, tacos, and entrees: $15-35 (plato placero: $110); desserts: $10

Showcasing everything from French and Italian eats to Afghani and Senagalese fare, Baltimore is a hub for authentic foreign cuisines. This year’s Summer Restaurant Week gives you the chance to try something new for a bargain, in your own backyard.

The around-the-world theme has invaded the food and drink scene (even inspiring local bar crawls with drinks inspired by different countries), and now, you can feel well-traveled even if you’ve never left Maryland.

“Restaurant Week gives ethnic restaurants an avenue to show the cuisine of the motherland in front of an audience that may be reluctant to try something unfamiliar,” says Miguel Angel Sanz, co-owner of longtime Spanish fixture Tio Pepe’s. “They may find out that what they thought was strange is not particularly so, and that such a restaurant may be perfectly appropriate for a birthday or an anniversary.”

For this summer’s annual dining-out promotion—returning August 2-11—diners are invited to enjoy two-course brunch and lunch menus ranging from $12-20, and three-course dinner menus ranging from $20-$35. If you’re hoping to get a taste of international cuisine while saving money on plane tickets, here are a few highlights worth exploring.

Italian: Sotto Sopra Restaurant
This Mt. Vernon mainstay is an ideal place to experience Italian cuisine like you are in the heart of Rome. Housed in a 19th-century building on North Charles Street since 1996, the spot will offer a two-course lunch for $15 or a three-course dinner for $35 with valet parking available for an additional $10. Your choices seem almost limitless, with snail ragout, pappardelle with smoked mozzarella, a watermelon caprese salad, and frutti di mare headlining the menu. Top your dinner off with one of six dessert options to complete your journey to Italy. $15-35

American: The Alexander Brown Restaurant
Pursuing the American dream, Alexander Brown emigrated from Ireland to Baltimore in the late 1700s. His family established themselves in the city and even funded the Baltimore-Ohio Railroad, as well as Baltimore’s first public water system. Become a part of their legacy by indulging in a fine dining experience, within a breathtaking Baltimore landmark. For Restaurant Week, it offers a two-course lunch featuring crab beignets and fried chicken sandwich. $20

French: Chez Hugo Bistro
This addition to the restaurant scene has held a special place in our hearts since opening around Valentine’s Day in 2018. Guests can expect a casual French bistro atmosphere, perfect for enjoying a pleasant meal with great company. For Restaurant Week, you’ll find an authentic, three-course French dinner with options such as niçoise salade, grilled monkfish, and banane et chocolat. $35

Japanese: Matsuri Japanese Restaurant
Get a taste of Japan with Matsuri’s three-course lunch or dinner. Open in Federal Hill since 1996, the restaurant is owner Bill Tien’s homage to Japanese cuisine in Baltimore. The award-winning spot will serve traditional dishes like miso soup, spicy tuna rolls, and Japanese mochi ice cream. $15-30

Afgani: The Helmand
The Helmand has not only helped introduce Afghani cuisine to Baltimore, but also nationwide. The restaurant was named after the owner’s first born son, as well as the famed Helmand River that runs through the predominantly dry country of Afghanistan. First established in 1989, it is celebrating 20 years by featuring Restaurant Week dishes such as kabobs, simmered lamb, and naan. $35

Greek: The Black Olive
The fine-dining fish tavern in Fells Point transports you to Northern Greece. Make no mistake, the prices are low, but the atmosphere is elevated. Take part in a fancy date and enjoy either a three-course lunch or dinner for $20-35. The menu offers a variety of Greek classics such as Mediterranean sea bass, heirloom tomato salad, and grilled sardines in grape leaves. $20-35

Spanish: Tio Pepe’s
With a complete menu of fine Spanish cuisine and an extensive wine list, Tio Pepe’s is a great option for date night or family celebrations. If you’ve never had Spanish or Mediterranean food, you’re in for a treat with a two-course lunch or three-course dinner. Try traditional dishes such as paella a la valenciana, gazpacho a la andaluza, and flan al caramelo. $15-35

Mexican: La Calle
La Calle, which translates to “the street” in Spanish, mixes deep-rooted Mexican traditions with modern culinary fundamentals. The masa, as well as the sauces that use local Maryland and indigenous Mexican ingredients, are all made in an open-style Baltimore kitchen. Choose between a $15 three-course lunch or a $35 three-course dinner that comes with a complimentary margarita. Some of the options featured include tacos, torta de pollo, and a Pipian Verde dish of pork loin and rice. $15-35

While Americans are known to embrace the fake mustaches, noise-making maracas, and massive margaritas that are typically associated with Cinco de Mayo, in Mexico, the fifth of May isn’t as big of a party as one might think.

“Our independence is celebrated on the 16th of September,” explains Cocina Luchadoras owner Rosalyn Vera, whose family hails from Puebla, Mexico. “People have the weekend off and usually there’s a parade for Cinco de Mayo, but it’s not nearly as big as the celebrations on our Independence Day.”

Even so, Vera sees Cinco de Mayo—the anniversary of the Mexicans’ unlikely victory over France in the Battle of Puebla in 1862—as a holiday for Americans to celebrate the contributions that Mexican immigrants have made throughout history. In her case, that means sharing her family’s traditions through food.

“We’re happy to be represented in that way,” she says. “Food unites us—I can always see it in people when they come in.”

This weekend, Vera will climb on board the Wilde Thyme food truck for a collaborative pop-up at Monument City Brewing Company on Saturday before pulling out some of her special recipes for Cinco de Mayo service at her Upper Fells Point restaurant. Among the featured tacos will be shredded tinga de pollo, lamb barbacoa, and cochinita pibil—braised shredded pork with citrus.

In addition to Cocina Luchadoras, plenty of other spots around town are featuring eats and drinks in honor of the holiday.

Clavel: A three-day fiesta is in the works at this beloved taqueria and mezcaleria in Remington. To kick off the holiday weekend, Sinaloa-born chef Carlos Raba will head outside to grill carne asada, al pastor, and cebollitas (grilled green onions) during dinner service on May 3. There will also be a ceviche special, and the bar team plans to shake up cilantro margaritas all weekend long. From 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on the big day, enjoy Clavel’s classic brunch plates, including huevos rancheros and chilaquiles with salsa verde, alongside a selection of tacos from the dinner menu. 225 W. 23rd St. 443-900-8983

La Calle: Chef/owner Valentino Sandoval, a native of Puebla, is offering a pages-long list of specials for his first-ever Cinco de Mayo party at La Calle downtown. Head to the restaurant to chow down on $2 tacos, $4 orders of chips and salsa, $5 nachos, $6 empanadas, and $7 ceviches. Wash down all of the discounted snacks with $2 canned beers, $3.50 bottles, and $4.50 drafts. A signature $5 drink menu includes tequila shots, classic margaritas, micheladas, and red and white sangria. 10 South St. 667-312-2964

La Palapa Grill & Cantina: The doors to this annual blowout in Ellicott City open at 10 a.m. Head to the restaurant early for brunch, or stop by throughout the day to dance to live mariachi music, sip cocktails, and enjoy tacos from an outdoor pop-up grill. A portion of all proceeds from the tent in the front parking lot, which will feature a Red Bull bar, tequila drinks, and DJs spinning all day, will benefit Voices for Children Howard County. 8307 Main St, Ellicott City. 410-465-0070

Nacho Mama’s: Both locations of this Tex-Mex hangout in Canton and Towson will be starting things off early with an “Uno and Dos de Mayo” fiesta May 1-2. From 4-8 p.m., enjoy corn hole, margaritas, and the release of Flying Dog’s Numero Dos dark lager. Swing by throughout the weekend to take advantage of $4 Modelo drafts, $18 Corona buckets, and $15 hubcap margaritas equipped with multiple straws for sharing. 2907 O’Donnell St. 410-675-0898

Papi’s Tacos: This Fells Point staple known for its DIY tacos and antojitos (Mexican street food) is going all out with special sips that will replace its typical all-you-can-drink deals on Sundays. Get in the spirit with $3.50 screwdrivers, mimosas, Bloody Marys, and tequila sunrises. Or, if you’re celebrating with a group, indulge in $17 pitchers of Modelo and Pacifico beer, as well as $23 Corona buckets. As an added bonus, the long-awaited Papi’s location in Hampden has officially opened just in time for Cinco de Mayo—promising plenty of food and drink discounts for a bonafide Sunday funday. Multiple locations including 1703 Aliceanna St. 410-299-8480

Vida Taco Bar: Head toward the massive white tents in Harbor Point for the “Cuatro de Mayo” festival hosted by Vida Taco Bar on May 4. The all-day festivities happening from 12-10 p.m. will include Mexican street food, cocktails made with Sagamore Spirit whiskey and Ilegal mezcal, live DJ entertainment, piñata smashing, and even an outdoor viewing of the Kentucky Derby, which just so happens to fall on the same day. 1401 Point St. 443-835-3474

Woody’s Cantina: Take in the killer waterfront views of Fells Point at this rooftop watering hole, which is celebrating accordingly with a three-day extravaganza. Complimentary Casamigos tequila samples will be flowing on Friday night, followed by bottomless brunch service and Espolon bottle engraving on Saturday. On Cinco de Mayo, show up early to enjoy beat-the-clock specials that start at $2 and increase every hour. Revelers will be able to get in plenty of liquid courage before karaoke kicks off at 2 p.m. 821 S. Broadway. 410-563-6600

OPEN

La Calle: Chef Valentino Sandoval unveiled his modern Mexican cantina in the 10 South Street building downtown earlier this week. The menu reflects the chef’s Mexican roots, while also fusing the global techniques—from French and American to Italian and seafood—that he learned while working under the likes of Marc Vetri and Michelin-rated chef Walter Abrams in Philadelphia before moving to Charm City. Reserve one of the dark wood tables to enjoy dishes like Tijuana Caesar salad, crab empanadas with corn and Oaxaca cheese, oyster mushroom quesadillas, barbacoa tacos with guacamole, and pan-seared salmon with fava beans and huitlacoche (Mexican truffle) aioli. 10 South St. 667-312-2964

Suya Spot: This Randallstown favorite is bringing its authentic Nigerian fare to the burgeoning dining scene in Owings Mills. Suya Spot will cut the ribbon at its second location in the mixed-use Metro Centre development on Friday, July 27. Expect to see chef/owner Fola Jinadu whipping up delicacies including catfish pepper soup, spicy flamed goat, peppered snail, and, of course, the namesake suya (meat skewers) in varieties like shrimp, chicken, fish, and beef. 10309 Grand Central Ave. Ste. 104

COMING SOON

Le Comptoir du Vin: Ever since the baby-sized Bottega relocated to larger digs down the street last year, Station North locals have missed feasting on Tuscan specialties in the cozy dining room. But now, two former Bottega employees are reopening the original Maryland Avenue space—this time as a French wine bar. This fall, chef Will Mester (formerly of Woodberry Kitchen) and his partner Rosemary Liss plan to open Le Comptoir du Vin, which is French for “the wine counter.” The duo recently told the Baltimore Business Journal that they will focus on pairing staples like pâté, roast duck, steak, and chicken with worldly wines from “lesser known regions.” 1709 Maryland Ave.

Tiki Lee’s: In the two years, since rebranding from its former concept Saute, Lee’s Pint and Shell has become one of Canton’s favorite corner bars. (Locals have come to love the famous 50-cent oysters during happy hour, $15 lobster dinners on Sundays, and massive Shuckin’ in the Street block parties.) Now, boaters will be happy to hear that the seafood concept is expanding with a sister spot along the water in Sparrows Point. Located at North Point Cove off of Morse Lane, the dock bar is expected to open this fall, highlighting spinoffs of the grub offered at Lee’s in Canton and—judging by its name—plenty of tiki drinks to go around. 4309 Shore Drive, Sparrows Point.

CH-CH CHANGES

Cafe Mezzanotte: A massive makeover is in the works at this Italian outpost in Severna Park. The restaurant, which dates back to the ’70s, will close for renovations on July 30. Come September, it will be completely revamped to feature an expanded floor plan with new furniture, color schemes, lighting, and interior decor. Along with the new look, the restaurant will debut more than 20 new menu items and an updated beverage lineup at the grand reopening. 760 Ritchie Highway, Severna Park. 410-647-1100

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/28: Trifecta Food Truck & Music Festival

This Saturday, the Trifecta festival returns to the Timonium Fairgrounds offering local eats, drinks, and live music all in one place. Chow down on grub from more than 35 local food trucks (think the likes of Gypsy Queen, Kommie Pig, and Farm to Charm) while jamming to a rockin’ lineup featuring The Herd of Main Street, Kelly Bell Band, and Steal Your Peach—an Allman Brothers and Grateful Dead tribute band. Plus, there will be more than 40 craft vendors, inflatable attractions for the kiddos, and the annual pie-eating contest with Rodney Henry of Dangerously Delicious Pies. 2200 York Rd. 12-9 p.m. $15.

7/28: Beat the Clock Happy Hour at Parts & Labor
Arrive at this Remington hangout early to take advantage of discounted Old Oriole Park beers from Peabody Heights Brewing. Cans will start at 25 cents at 11 a.m., and the cost will double every hour until it reaches regular price. If you’re not a beer person, enjoy boozy snowballs, Jell-O shots, and bourbon specials until 4 p.m. Of course, there will also be specialty eats like Sloppy Joes and Italian sausages on the grill outside. 2600 N. Howard St. 11 a.m.- 4p.m. 443-873-8887

SHARK WEEK SPECIALS

Frazier’s on the Avenue: Tune into the Discovery Channel shenanigans from this Hampden dive, which is celebrating accordingly with aqua-themed food and drink deals all week long. Sip $4 Heavy Seas Loose Cannon and Union Skipjack drafts while enjoying $10 food specials including fish tacos with avocado sour cream, salmon cake sliders with lemon-dill tartar, and beer-battered ahi tuna bites with fries. 919 W. 36th St. 410-662-4914

Shark Week Party at Jailbreak Brewing: On Friday, July 27, head to the Jailbreak taproom in Laurel to catch up on the “Shark Week” specials before a special screening of Jaws at 7 p.m. Fittingly, the party will also feature beer-and-bite deals like the brewery’s cherry cream ale paired with shark tacos. 9445 Washington Blvd. Ste. F. Laurel. 7-11 p.m. 443-435-9699

Nacho Mama’s: The Towson location of this Tex-Mex cantina is getting in on the fun with a special hubcap margarita. Grab a group and sip on the blue “Shark Bite Hubcap,” complete with a gummy shark, plastic swimmer figurines, and a splash of grenadine—for a scene straight out of Amity. 2 W. Pennsylvania Ave. Towson. 443-673-0069

These days, there’s certainly no shortage of authentic Mexican food in Charm City. And chef Valentino Sandoval is planning to put his own spin on the real-deal delicacies when he opens his new restaurant, La Calle, this summer.

A native of Puebla, Mexico, Sandoval moved to Philadelphia in 1996, and cut his teeth working under the likes of Italian chef Marc Vetri, and Michelin-rated chef Walter Abrams—formerly of Napa Valley hotspot The French Laundry.

“Growing up in Mexico, I learned how to put food together,” Sandoval says. “But here in America, chefs are more like artists. I’ve learned how to be creative and put little touches here and there. I want to do something different and fuse all of the techniques that I’ve learned—from French and American to Italian and seafood—into classic Mexican cuisine.”

In 2015, Sandoval relocated to Baltimore and took a gig as chef de cuisine at Corner Charcuterie Bar in Hampden. Though he never went to culinary school, he says that his 20-year career working in various kitchens has given him ample experience to run his own restaurant.

“La Calle means ‘the street’ in Spanish,” he explains. “It’s personal to me, because I feel like I learned more on the street than I ever would have in school.”

Expected to open in late May, La Calle will take over the former home of Sydney’s Cafe on the first floor of the 10 South Street building downtown. After a long search, Sandoval and his three brothers recently landed on the 80-seat space and began to transform it from a Mediterranean-style eatery into a Mexican restaurant with orange walls, dark woods, brick accents, an open kitchen, and a bar and lounge with two television screens. 

Despite the influence of his heritage on the interior, Sandoval says that the restaurant won’t be a typical taqueria. In fact, he will only offer one taco (a classic al pastor) on the menu. Other globally influenced dishes will include ceviches, salads, tostadas, and entrees like pan-seared salmon with huitlacoche (Mexican truffle) aioli and fava bean salad. The chef hopes to use locally sourced meats and vegetables, and make all of the restaurant’s salsas and mole sauces in-house using his mother’s recipe.

“The menu is going to be small,” he says. “But we want to make sure that everything is fresh. The portions won’t be huge, but with two courses, you won’t leave hungry.”

In keeping with the chef’s values, the bar program will highlight margaritas made with fresh-squeezed juices and a sizable collection of authentic tequilas and mezcals.

Sandoval describes opening a restaurant as a lifelong dream. He is looking forward to teaching his own staff, and introducing diners to his unique take on classic Mexican fare.

“I read somewhere that food doesn’t have a soul,” he says. “We have to add soul to the food when we cook it. That way your customers can feel the love you put into it. When I make people smile, that means I’m doing something right.”