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	<title>Larder &#8211; Baltimore Magazine</title>
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	<title>Larder &#8211; Baltimore Magazine</title>
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		<title>Food and Drink Trends to Expect at Baltimore Eateries in 2020</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/food-and-drink-trends-to-expect-at-baltimore-eateries-in-2020/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Kate Rowe]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jan 2020 12:48:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health & Wellness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[2020]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Annoula's Kitchen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[CBD]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[collagen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eco-friendly]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food trends]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Larder]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mocktails]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plantbar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Snake Hill]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[True Chesapeake Oyster Co.]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wellness trends]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wild Kombucha]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=71465</guid>

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			<p>We’re almost one month into 2020 and it already feels lighter and brighter. Of course, we all still have our rainy days, but it seems the collective energy is elevated. It helps that there seems to be a spotlight on bringing “wellness” to all areas of life, including our homes, work, workouts, and our plates. Locally, shops and restaurants are starting the year out strong by tapping into these philosophies. Here, we break down four food and drink trends to look out for in 2020 and where to make the most of them around town. </p>
<h4>Eco-Friendly Foods</h4>
<p>As more information becomes available, restauranteurs and consumers alike are looking for more environmentally-friendly ways to enjoy their favorite things. </p>
<p>“We want people to feel curious about how to eat more sustainably, not intimidated,” says Helena del Pesco, owner of eco-conscious eatery Larder in Old Goucher. “It can feel hard to change habits, even when we know it&#8217;s the right thing to do.”</p>
<p>Recently, Baltimore City has made efforts by <a href="https://www.baltimoresustainability.org/baltimore-city-foam-ban/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">banning styrofoam</a> and <a href="https://www.wypr.org/post/after-9-attempts-city-council-successfully-passes-plastic-bag-ban" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">plastic-bags at retail locations</a>, but the team at Larder is taking it a step further by working with the collectors at <a href="https://compostcab.com/">Compost Cab</a> to keep their operation almost completely compostable. According to the <a href="http://www.fao.org/3/i3347e/i3347e.pdf" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization</a>, if food waste were a country, it would be the third-largest greenhouse gas emitter, generating the emissions of more than <a href="https://www.nrdc.org/sites/default/files/wasted-2017-report.pdf" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">37 million</a> passenger vehicles. </p>
<p>Larder&#8217;s kitchen scraps, to-go containers, napkins, and utensils are composted at <a href="http://realfoodfarm.civicworks.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Real Food Farm</a> and processed into soil that can be used to fertilize community gardens and parks. </p>
<p>“Yes it&#8217;s an added expense, but ultimately it benefits all of us as opposed to creating a burden for future generations,” Del Pesco says. “I grew up learning the three r&#8217;s: Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle. Recycling has proven to be problematic…but composting, if done right, can actually turn our waste into a resource.”</p>
<p>Climate conscious locations across the area are also including more local, seasonal ingredients to cut down on the carbon emissions that come with food transport. <a href="https://cunninghamstowson.com/sources/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Cunningham’s</a> in Towson (whose restaurant is currently <a href="url}" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">under renovation</a>, but downstairs cafe is open for business), cuts out the middle man by sourcing most of its produce and meats from its own farm, located just minutes down the road in Cockeysville. With traditional, sustainable farming methods and organic feed, Cunningham&#8217;s farmers work to cultivate items that lessen the restaurant&#8217;s carbon footprint. </p>
<p>Seafood fans also know sister spots <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/first-look-at-true-chesapeake-oyster-co-at-hampdens-whitehall-mill" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">True Chesapeake Oyster Co</a>. and The Local Oyster as other examples of regional sourcing. The True Chesapeake oyster farm, located in St. Jerome Creek in Southern Maryland, provides not only delicious, meaty mollusks, but a critical habitat for the surrounding ecosystem. Plus, they help clean up the Bay. According to the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=10153490412336174" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">National Aquarium</a>, a single oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of water in one day. </p>
<h4>Mighty Mocktails<br />
 </h4>
<p>We <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/drink-cocktail-beer-wine-sprits-trends-2019" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">noted</a> the rise of non-alcoholic cocktails last year, and 2020 is proving to be even more accessible to the sober-curious: “We have certainly seen an increase in guest requests for interesting mocktails,” says <a href="https://www.ryestreettavern.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Rye Street Tavern</a> beverage manager Scott Kollig. “We have a growing collection of recipes behind the bar that our team has created in the moment.” </p>
<p>With mocktails, diners can enjoy all the things that come with social outings without the added baggage. This includes wellness effects across the board—from immediate issues like weight gain, loss of sleep, and hangover pains to long-term health problems like risks of heart disease, high blood pressure, cancer, and alcoholism. <a href="https://nam04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fbaltimore.citybizlist.com%2Farticle%2F593424%2Fhotel-revival-launches-spirit-free-cocktail-program-led-by-sober-bartender-anna-welker&amp;data=02%7C01%7Cclauren%40baltimoremagazine.net%7C96fc02dcbc364ccdd1c508d7a370c395%7Cfab74b95e7b94c7ca18e32e6c8d2ecf7%7C0%7C0%7C637157577036751504&amp;sdata=eLGhe0HokZ%2BaY6Ai0cAJRD4v2Z05C8QLA3p3r6U%2FYUo%3D&amp;reserved=0" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Hotel Revival</a> just launched a “Zero Proof and Zero Judgement” menu to create a safe, fun space where guests can enjoy themselves, regardless of their drinking preference. A <a href="https://bmjopen.bmj.com/content/8/5/e020673" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">study published in 2018</a> shared modest health benefits that a group of adults experienced when they stopped drinking, even for just one month.</p>
<p>And it’s not just your traditional Shirley Temples and fancy lemonades. Bartenders are stepping up their game, creating decadent, inspired creations. <a href="https://www.lafoodmarketa.com/#restaurant" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">La Food Marketa</a> has more than eight slushies and mocktails that incorporate ingredients such as blood orange, acai, dulce creama, and muddled basil. <a href="https://www.woodberrykitchen.com/menu" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Woodbery Kitchen</a> uses watermelon honey, lemon balm verjus, hibiscus tea, and egg whites. </p>
<p>“We have a few ‘pocket&#8217; mocktails that we utilize as good go-to drinks, but we often simply ask guests what flavors they enjoy or don&#8217;t enjoy and will build something bespoke for them,” Kollig adds. “We have various syrups that are non-alcoholic that we can use to elevate the typical citrus flavors, but by far the biggest advantage we have is using Fee Brothers Bitters. Most bitters are alcohol-based, but Fee Brothers are glycerol-based in flavors like plum, cherry, black walnut, and even celery.” Check out a few of our <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/mocktails-to-sip-during-dry-january-baltimore" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">favorite recent mocktails here</a>. </p>
<h4>Functional Beverages<br />
 </h4>
<p>After the passage of the <a href="https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/2018/12/21/hemp-cbd-farm-bill-signing-trump-delaware-agriculture/2387656002/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">farm bill</a> that legalized hemp across the country, we’ve seen CBD start popping up everywhere. CBD, short for cannabidiol, is a non-psychoactive compound extracted from hemp plants. It provides relaxing and sedative effects and it is <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/16/style/self-care/cbd-oil-benefits.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">commonly used</a> to address a variety of symptoms including anxiety, insomnia, inflammation, chronic pain, and depression. </p>
<p>According to the <a href="https://www.who.int/medicines/access/controlled-substances/5.2_CBD.pdf" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">World Health Organization</a>, CBD exhibits “no effects indicative of any abuse or dependence potential.” In Hampden, <a href="http://artifactcoffee.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Artifact Coffee</a> and <a href="http://ventcoffeeroasters.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Vent Coffee Roasters</a> have CBD on their menus as an add-on for hot and cold beverages.</p>
<p>Although you may be hearing more about CBD, it’s not the only drink infusion making a splash on Baltimore menus. At <a href="https://www.plant-bar.com/menu" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Plantbar</a>’s locations in Brewer’s Hill and Towson, they’ve added collagen to their lengthy list of wellness add-ons that also includes chlorella, oregano oil, turmeric, and spirulina. </p>
<p>“Collagen is a major building block of skin, bones, muscles, tendons, and ligaments,” says Plantbar owner Daniela Troia. “We use it in our upgraded coffees—basically a kicked up bulletproof coffee—and it can be added to smoothies.” </p>
<p>A <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30681787" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">recent report</a> shows that collagen supplements can increase skin elasticity and hydration. It can also help support joint and bone health, protect lean muscle, and build healthier hair and nails.</p>
<p>If you need an energy boost, Baltimore-based brewery <a href="https://www.mobtownfermentation.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Wild Kombucha</a> has expanded on their offerings to include <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B7ToTNQp5cq/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Icaro Yerba Maté blends</a>. While kombucha has been adding natural probiotics to diets in recent years, the yerba maté extract blended into these new organic green tea beverages is a popular caffeine pick-me-up traditionally used in South America.</p>
<h4>Plants, Plants, and More Plants<br />
 </h4>
<p>Plant-based items were also a top <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/health/plant-based-menus-are-growing-in-baltimore-and-beyond" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">highlight</a> in 2019 and continue with increased intensity. Vegetarian and vegan options are flooding the city and new blends are helping flexitarians take steps toward more plants, without making the full switch.</p>
<p>With this in mind, many Baltimore locations are expanding their veggie options, but keeping some of the meatier flavors and textures. At the newly opened <a href="https://www.annoulaskitchen.com/menu" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Annoula’s Kitchen</a> inside Cross Street Market, diners can grab an open-faced Chickpea Melt on sourdough. <a href="https://northavemarket.com/food-and-drinks/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">North Avenue Market</a> provides meat-like flavors without meat in their rotating specials, like the current Broccoli over Mushroom Duxelle. At <a href="https://snakehillbaltimore.com/menu" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Snake Hill</a> in Canton, you can taste a variety of homemade sausages, including three non-meat options like the Smoked Apple Sage made with golden potatoes, as well as an Italian made with eggplant and fennel.</p>
<p>Baltimore is on-trend with leading chefs across the country who are looking to add healthier, planet-friendly options like these. The James Beard Foundation has even created The Blended Burger Project, a movement that encourages chefs to blend at least 25 percent mushrooms into burgers. Tying back to <a href="https://www.ecowatch.com/beef-mushroom-burger-blend-2538190410.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">sustainability</a>, this switch could reduce agricultural production-related greenhouse gas emissions and irrigation water demand. Plus, it could reduce global agricultural land demand by more than 14,000 square miles, an area larger than our state of Maryland.</p>

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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/food-and-drink-trends-to-expect-at-baltimore-eateries-in-2020/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Open &#038; Shut: Creole Soul; Andina; Jack &#038; Zach’s</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-creole-soul-andina-jack-zachs/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Lauren Cohen]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Dec 2019 15:08:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Andina]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Creole Soul]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Donor Bros.]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jack and Zach's]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Larder]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Noisy Burger]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plantbar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Puerto 511]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[R. House]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Charmery]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=23575</guid>

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			<p><strong><a href="https://www.facebook.com/CreoleSoulRestaurant/">Creole Soul:</a></strong> Ever since R. House said goodbye to Arba Mediterranean last month, regulars have been wondering what would fill the void in the Remington food hall. This week, it was announced that local pop-up Creole Soul—which emphasizes, you guessed it, New Orleans-style soul food—will settle in the space later this month. (Get a first taste this weekend when chef Que Neal and her fiancé, co-founder Dedric Richardson, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/369655620505364/">take over R. House’s pop-up stall</a> one last time before becoming a permanent vendor.) A grand opening event on December 20 will feature on-theme touches including Mardi Gras-inspired face painting, a King Cake, and live music by Rufus Roundtree. As for the menu, chef Neal will offer classics such as shrimp and grits, seafood gumbo, oyster po-boys, beignets, and “Mee Maw’s Famous” banana pudding. </p>
<p>In other R. House news, the communal spot will celebrate its third birthday with drink specials and festivities <a href="https://www.facebook.com/rhousebaltimore/">this weekend</a>, and plans for the Little Baby’s Ice Cream stall—which closed last week after the Philadelphia-based company announced that it was shutting down all of its locations—will be announced next week. Stay tuned for more details.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-maximon-101-baltimore-el-salto"><strong>Maximón:</strong></a> Atlas Restaurant Group is just about ready to reveal yet another concept in Harbor East. A <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/new-years-eve-at-the-bygone-maximon-tickets-80583386077">swanky bash</a> on New Year’s Eve will be the first night for diners to experience Maximón—the group’s Latin American-inspired restaurant set in the former home of Wit &amp; Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore. After that, regular dinner service will begin on January 2. Chef Colin King, previously of New York restaurant group Empellon, will present a menu of ceviches, salads, and entrees including portobello fajitas and whole roasted bass with yucca and black mint. A selection of taco fillings range from Chesapeake catfish with Baja crema to oxtail with salsa verde. The bar program will also have a South American focus, offering an exclusive blend of tequila produced at the Patrón headquarters in Jalisco, Mexico.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.donerbros.com/"><strong>Döner Brös:</strong></a> Back in 2015, Alex Politsch and Steven Banks went to Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany and fell in love with authentic döner meat—which is traditionally cooked on a vertical rotisserie. The duo brought the delicacy back to Baltimore and roamed around on their Döner Brös food truck for a year before debuting a brick-and-mortar location in Charles Village in 2018. Their salads, bowls, wraps, and sandwiches filled with the flavorful proteins have caught on so much, in fact, that the founders are preparing to debut another shop in Harbor Point this summer. In addition to the signature meats, fries, falafel, and Turkish nachos (fries layered with döner meat and nacho cheese), the new spot will also offer beer and wine. Plus, to accommodate business professionals in the area, it will highlight a special shareable menu for small groups that can be eaten on the go.</p>
<p><strong>OPEN</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Puerto511/"><strong>Andina:</strong></a> Fans of Peruvian gem Puerto 511 have kept their eyes peeled for this spinoff empanada shop from <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/global-eats-baltimore-20-ethnic-eateries-to-take-a-culinary-journey-around-the-world">husband-and-wife owners</a> José Victorio Alarcon and Connie Vásquez. After four months of work, the restaurant has officially opened at 101 W. Lexington Street downtown. While Puerto focuses on refined dishes such as cassava fritters stuffed with ribeye and <em>lomo saltado</em> (stir-fried beef with fried potatoes and white rice), Andina offers more casual fare, including rice dishes and an expansive empanada menu. But, at both locations, the owners’ love for their culture shines through. “We can again say thanks to our dear Baltimore, a city that grows with people’s dreams,” the owners wrote in a post to Facebook. “Total thanks.”</p>
<p><a href="https://www.plant-bar.com/"><strong>Plantbar:</strong></a> On the heels of Red Pepper Sichuan Bistro’s debut on Allegheny Avenue in Towson, the block has also welcomed a new location of this homegrown juice bar and cafe—which has other spots scattered everywhere from Belvedere Square to Brewer’s Hill. Snag a seat in the space decorated with dark woods and interior greenery, to enjoy made-to-order juices, superfood smoothies, açai bowls, coffees, and wellness shots.</p>
<p><strong>EPICUREAN EVENTS</strong></p>
<p><strong>12/5:</strong><a href="http://artifactcoffee.com/"><strong> Origins: A Speaker Series</strong></p>
<p></a>In the latest installment of this sustainable speaker series at Artifact Coffee, listen in as Seeva and Vivek Malik of New Jersey-based Bhumi Growers explain the ins and outs of growing exotic citrus in the mid-Atlantic. Following the conversation, stick around for a family-style feast featuring some of the speakers’ prized produce. <em>6:30 p.m. $60</em></p>
<p><strong>12/6: </strong><strong><a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/2535224083429730/">Noisy Burger at The Charmery Ice Cream Factory<br /></a></strong>Remember when students from Baltimore City’s Mergenthaler Vocational Technical High School first debuted their own burger pop-up at R. House in 2017? The young chefs are back in action and ready to host another community event with The Charmery this weekend. From 6-10 p.m., enjoy Noisy Burger’s turkey and beef patties topped with locally sourced ingredients alongside orders of fries. Of course, no burger is complete without a shake. And naturally, the team from the Charmery will be on hand to mix up signature flavors to pair with all of the eats. </p>
<p><strong>SHUT</p>
<p></strong><strong><a href="https://jackandzachfood.com/">Jack and Zach’s:</a></strong> After eight years on North Charles Street in Mt. Vernon, this small-but-mighty diner closed its doors for good on November 27. “The J&amp;Z red counter has been home to so many incredible customers and conversations over the years,” owners Jack Neill and Zachary Schoettler wrote in a <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B5pwD_dpc7_/">message</a> announcing the closure. “We’re grateful for all of you helping this little farm-to-table 12-seater become the community that we dreamed of.” Although diners will no longer be able to enjoy the duo’s hearty breakfast sandwiches and omelets in the space, this certainly isn&#8217;t the last we’ll see of Jack and Zach’s. In fact, the owners have teamed up with Larder in Old Goucher to host a <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B5pwD_dpc7_/">brunch pop-up</a> this Sunday, December 8 from 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Stop by to get your fix of locally sourced omelets, grits, bacon, and, of course, coffee blends from Larder’s trusty neighbor Sophomore Coffee.</p>

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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-creole-soul-andina-jack-zachs/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Review: Larder</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-larder-old-goucher-feeds-us-from-the-inside-out/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Lauren Cohen]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Sep 2019 08:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fadensonnen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Helena del Pesco]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Larder]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Old Goucher]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Socle]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?post_type=article&#038;p=17029</guid>

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			<p>With its shelves stocked with fancy finishing salts, artisanal toothpaste, and hand-crafted herbal cleaning products, <a href="https://larderbaltimore.tumblr.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Larder</a> feels like a place where you might find Gwyneth Paltrow nibbling on a gluten-free frittata with nettles and edible flowers. 						</p>
<p>Larder is owned by chef Helena del Pesco, whose chef C.V. includes gigs around the globe in places such as Mexico City, Tel Aviv, and the San Francisco Bay area, where she trimmed chanterelles and made nettle ravioli at Alice Water’s legendary Chez Panisse. 						</p>
<p>Del Pesco opened Larder after befriending Lane Harlan of Clavel fame. Harlan, ever the sorceress, excels at taking properties in need of some TLC and making magic of them. This time around, she had the vision to transform a dilapidated block between Maryland and Charles Streets to make way for three independently owned businesses, of which Larder (sharing a courtyard with Harlan’s new natural wine bar/tap room Fadensonnen) is one. 						</p>
<p>At Larder, you’ll find a lunch menu rife with farm-grown produce, including house-made relishes and kimchis, as well as scratch-made gluten-free pastries. The menu rotates weekly, but for all of the offerings, the focus is on “food that tastes good, feels good, and does good,” according to the menu’s website.</p>
<p>If, indeed, we are what we eat, we’re in good hands here—all ingredients were recently picked, plucked, or sourced from farm or field. For Del Pesco, who holds a graduate degree in fine arts from Berkley, presentation is paramount, and everything— from the blond wood walls to the not-too-sour house kombucha—is meticulously curated and crafted.</p>
<p>The menu is concise, yet broad enough without feeling limited, thanks to the opportunities for customizing vegetarian dishes with cheese, lamb, or beef. On my visit, a too-pretty-to-eat mushroom and pesto pasta arrived in a delicate blue-and-white striped bowl filled with brown rice pasta, tossed with a mix of cremini, shitake, and oyster mushrooms, and enlivened with fresh dill and walnut pesto. </p>
<p>In the bowl of Beans, Greens &amp; Grains, the individual elements, including locally grown Hmong sticky rice, black beans, Swiss chard, kale, and grilled radicchio (and sheep’s milk, which we added on), worked in harmony, though some acid to boost the brightness of the vegetables would have been appreciated. </p>
<p>Another item, a simple bowl of tomato soup with sprigs of dill flower floating in delicate broth, was the essence of summer. The soup was accompanied by a diminutive—and delicious—grilled cheese served on whole-grain bread sourced from the new Motzi Bread, owned by Russell Trimmer, the former lead baker of Woodberry Kitchen. 						</p>
<p>Know before you go that Del Pesco takes more of a quality over quantity approach and portions tend to be on the smaller side, though the price point, an average of $9 per, allows you to order an additional plate or side without breaking the bank. </p>
<p>“Some people complain about our portion size,” admits Del Pesco, “but with food this nutrient-dense, I ask them, ‘Are you still hungry or do you feel satisfied?’” </p>
<p>On our trip to Larder, two of three of us felt the latter. Even so, we decided to sample the spicy-sweet strawberry tart. In addition to being delicious, its ginger-vinegar curd seemed practically detoxifying, even good for the gut. Gywneth would approve. </p>
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<p>›› <a href="https://larderbaltimore.tumblr.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">LARDER</a> <em>3 W. 23rd St., 410-982-6246, Tues.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. </em></p>

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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-larder-old-goucher-feeds-us-from-the-inside-out/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Larder Chef Helena del Pesco Talks Intersection Between Food and Art</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/larder-chef-helena-del-pesco-talks-intersection-between-food-and-art/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jane Marion]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Jun 2019 13:19:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Business & Development]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fadensonnen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Helena del Pesco]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Larder]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Old Goucher]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Socle]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=11841</guid>

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			<p>When chef Helena del Pesco, owner of the new <a href="https://larderbaltimore.tumblr.com/about" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Larder</a> in Old Goucher, arrived here after years of living in the San Francisco Bay area, she was surprised by the farms she found. “I was expecting it to be a challenge coming from a place where there’s such a big scene around small organic farms, but there are a lot more small farms here than I expected,” she says. </p>
<p>In trading the San Francisco Bay for the Chesapeake Bay, del Pesco has found new ways to challenge herself. “There’s not as much abundance year-round and you have to find ways to preserve things,” she says. “But those constraints can bring out more creativity and that’s been really fun.” </p>
<p><strong>I know you came from California a few years ago. What brought you to Baltimore?<br /></strong>My husband and I moved here three years ago from San Francisco after traveling for a year. We wanted to be closer to his family—they are in Delaware. My first ever trip to Baltimore was to go to an event that Hex Ferments was hosting. Owner Meaghan and I had gone to art school together in Minneapolis and I started working at Hex while living in Northern Maryland and commuting down to Baltimore. I fell in love with Baltimore and the food scene here. We did a pop up before we even moved here, and it sold out within 24 hours. </p>
<p><strong>I know that Lane Harlan approached you about the idea of sharing a courtyard when she opened Fadensonnen.<br /></strong>Lane and I really clicked in terms of our sensibility and our interests. We have spent a lot of time in Oaxaca and Mexico City, and I could tell that she was very passionate about mezcal and took it seriously. She also has a poetry background, so we both have this crossover between food and art. </p>
<p>Originally, I was going to potentially be the chef for the wine bar at Fadensonnen, but when she realized that there was going to be additional space on the property, she approached me and Kris [Fulton, the owner of Sophomore Coffee]. We’re all collaborators now. We make the pâtes and pickles and marmalades for Fadensonnen and we make the pastries for Sophomore Coffee.</p>
<p><strong>How did you become a chef?<br /></strong>I have a background in art. I went to undergrad at the Minneapolis College of Art and Design and have a graduate degree from UC Berkley for fine art. I became a chef because I was already working with food as part of performance events and as an artist, I was making ceramics and textiles and objects incorporated into those meals. My thesis project led up to 8- to 10-year-olds running a restaurant for a day. They made all of the plates and silverware and ceramics and made menus out of silkscreen. And they made ravioli with the fillings you’d expect from 8- to 10-year-olds. My favorite was a burrito ravioli.</p>
<p><strong>So how did you go from an artist’s studio to restaurants?<br /></strong>I had worked in restaurants for a very long time–more front of the house as a server. I’ve always loved food and worked for really fantastic chefs in San Francisco, who shared not only their techniques but their sourcing of ingredients and working closely with farmers. I’ve always loved plants. I garden. I have some background in making folk medicine from plants. As an artist, I felt limited with what I could do in the space of a gallery or a museum—there were lots of restrictions in terms of bringing living things and food into those spaces. </p>
<p>I love the creative process of cooking for others. It’s very immediate and ephemeral. You make it—and then it’s gone. That appeals to me and also it appeals to me in terms of a footprint. In art school, I’d produce all of this stuff. Maybe someone buys it, or it goes into a storage unit or gets throw away. The object can feel like a burden. With cooking, I love how immediate it is.</p>
<p><strong>What was it like to work at the famed Chez Panisse?<br /></strong>I did work at Chez Panisse as a stage. It was more like a brief stint. My good friend Jerome Waag was the head chef there. The people who work in that kitchen are very intuitive, very elegant. It’s obvious that they know the ingredients really well and treat the ingredients with so much respect and do things minimally to make those things shine. I’ve worked in more formal kitchens like Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain. The kitchen is very theatrical, very elaborate like paper thin layers of potatoes in vegetable dyes. There’s so much process and it’s incredible. </p>
<p><strong>Has this informed your farm-to-table leaning Larder?<br /></strong>I’m more drawn to the Chez Panisse style—showing off what the plant has to offer. I also worked [in the San Francisco area] at Camino and Bar Agricole. Those two places had a strong farm-to-table ethos that became how I thought about food, how I think about seasons and getting to know what a farmer’s strengths are and building a menu and the products that you know are available. I’m not a hard-core locavore. I get my citrus from California and olive oil from Italy, but it’s all in the service of preparing a menu that is based on what’s here.</p>
<p><strong>Did you do any R&amp;D before opening Larder?<br /></strong>I spent the first two years getting to know the local farms and doing farm visits. Getting to know what other people in the area are doing and how could we fill a need. I think lunch is challenging for a farm-to-table restaurant. It’s challenging to keep the prices low enough.</p>
<p><strong>Has anything about the food scene here surprised you?<br /></strong>Finding Clavel and just realizing that there’s really good Mexican food to be had in Baltimore was a great surprise. At one point, good Mexican food on the East Coast was pretty tough to find. I’ve been really impressed with how supportive the food scene is—how supportive people are of each other, of sharing resources and giving advice. One thing I miss the most in San Francisco is some of the Asian flavors, the Thai, the Japanese—there’s not as much variety with that.</p>
<p><strong>Any menu items you want to highlight?<br /></strong>The frittata is on the menu to keep things consistent, but it will change with the season. We can change the flavor profile with the seasons. It’s a comfort food that won’t put you to sleep easily. We started out doing nettles in the beginning that’s a lovely spring delicacy super good for you. The chicken salad is very approachable, but it’s made with tahini instead of mayonnaise. The menu is approachable menu with little twist that make it more interesting or delicious. </p>
<p><strong>What’s your elevator pitch for people coming to visit Larder?<br /></strong>We’re trying to provide the overall element of food being delicious and also that you leave feeling good, not weighed down, that it feels good in the body and that the space is pleasant, so that it’s a total experience and service, of course, adds to that and it all feels very personal. </p>

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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/larder-chef-helena-del-pesco-talks-intersection-between-food-and-art/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Open &#038; Shut: Larder; Old Boy; Prime Corner</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-larder-old-boy-prime-corner/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Lauren Cohen]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 May 2019 14:20:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Atelier Culinaire]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Broadway Market]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[El Tigre]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fadensonnen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fat Tiger]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gnocco]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Larder]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Old Boy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Prime Corner Baltimore]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rock & Toss Crab House]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Socle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Towson Row]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=24991</guid>

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			<p><strong>OPEN</strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.larderbaltimore.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Larder:</a></strong> Socle, the Old Goucher food-and-drink complex from Clavel owners Lane Harlan and Matthew Pierce, is officially operating in full swing now that its final concept, Larder, has opened its doors. Joining Harlan’s natural wine bar Fadensonnen and celebrated coffee shop Sophomore Coffee in the renovated carriage house on Maryland Avenue, Larder will specialize in hyper-local dishes prepared by chef Helena del Pesco. Area produce—as well as many ingredients fermented in house—will show up in colorful dishes such as crunchy snap pea and asparagus salad and fig-leaf infused yogurt pudding with roasted peaches. While stopping by for lunch or an early dinner (normal hours will be 11 a.m.-7 p.m.), guests will also be able to peruse shelves stocked with artisan pantry goods from local purveyors like Hex Ferments and Keepwell Vinegar, and some from businesses as far as Oaxaca and San Francisco. <em>2223 Maryland Ave. 410-982-6246</em></p>
<p><strong>COMING SOON</strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/five-things-to-know-about-broadway-market-in-fells-point" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Old Boy:</a></strong> A <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/822845961419128/?active_tab=about" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">grand opening party</a> for Phil Han’s newest concepts inside Broadway Market has been set for Wednesday, May 15. All of the stalls inside the <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/five-things-to-know-about-broadway-market-in-fells-point" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">recently renovated</a>Fells Point institution have been celebrating staggered grand openings since March. Veteran vendors Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, Sophia’s Place, and Sal’s Seafood were the first to premiere, followed by newbie Thai Street. Now, the concepts from Han of Dooby’s are ready to make their debut.</p>
<p>Among them is Old Boy, an <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/2018/11/7/renovated-broadway-market-bringing-diverse-food-stalls-to-fells-point" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">authentic Korean eatery</a> whose kitchen will be headed up by Irvin Seo of the popular Haenyo pop-up. In addition, Han’s team will operate a centerpiece bar called Fat Tiger, which is open now serving an all-day menu of coffee, beer, wine, and cocktails. The bar team will also oversee El Tigre—a tiki-inspired play on the Fat Tiger concept that will expand bar service outside to the market’s patio. At the grand opening party, guests will enjoy a soju ice luge at Old Boy, complimentary welcome punch at Fat Tiger, and plenty of tiki drinks from El Tigre outside. <em>1640 Aliceanna St. </em></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.rockandtosscrabhouse.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Rock &amp; Toss Crab House:</a> </strong>The developers at Greenberg Gibbons are adding yet another eatery to Foundry Row in Owings Mills this summer. The mixed-use development already boasts plenty of fast-casual destinations including Nalley Fresh, Sunset Raw Juice Bar, Mission BBQ, and Zoë’s Kitchen, and now, this Bowie-based seafood spot is also joining the lineup. The 3,060-square-foot restaurant will offer shrimp, baby clams, green mussels, crawfish, and, of course, blue crabs. The entrees arrive covered in signature cajun, lemon pepper, or garlic-butter seasonings. <em>10100 Reisterstown Rd. </em></p>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.ggcommercial.com/property/towson-row/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Whole Foods Towson:</a> </strong>In other development news, Greenberg Gibbons and Caves Valley Partners have inked a deal with Whole Foods to be the anchor tenant in the forthcoming Towson Row project on the corner of York Road and Towsontown Boulevard. Whole Foods was announced as a tenant years ago, but later pulled out of the ongoing project. Now, the grocery chain is back on board with plans for two levels of parking, a mezzanine space, and an outdoor dining terrace. Construction on the store is expected to begin later this year and it will likely open in late 2021. When complete, the five-acre development will also include 75,000 square feet of retail and residential space, student housing units, luxury apartments, and a 220-room hotel. <em>York Rd. &amp; Towsontown Blvd., Towson. </em></p>
<p><strong>EPICUREAN EVENTS</strong></p>
<p><strong>5/11: </strong><strong><a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/413410345907791/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Diamondback Brewing Mole Stout Release</a></strong><br />This weekend, the team from Diamondback Brewing will officially release its new bourbon barrel-aged mole stout, Tal Uno—a special collaboration with local chocolate expert Jinji Fraser of Pure Chocolate by Jinji. The 9-percent ABV beer was aged in Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels for 14 months before being infused with Jinji’s ingredients to produce notes of vanilla, spicy pepper, and dark chocolate. Swing by the South Baltimore brewery from 12-7 p.m. on Saturday to sample the release while mingling with brewers who will be on hand to discuss the yearlong process. There will also be live music by funky-folk band Gene &amp; Friends and special Mexican pizzas fired up in the brewery’s new <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/diamondback-brewing-debuts-pizza-kitchen" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">in-house kitchen</a>. <em>1215 E. Fort Ave. 443-388-9626</em></p>
<p><strong>SHUT</strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Atelier806/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Atelier Culinaire:</a> </strong>This Little Italy fine-dining den closed its doors late last month. Staffed by culinary students at Stratford University, the restaurant was known as a launchpad for young chefs transitioning into the industry. Regulars at the white tablecloth spot enjoyed classics like the roasted rack of lamb, beef bourguignon, and ginger-crusted salmon. There’s no word yet on what will become of the Stiles street space, which is equipped with a built-in bar and mezzanine level. <em>806 Stiles St. </em></p>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/gnocco-chef-brian-lavin-talks-restaurant-closure-and-move-to-the-west-coast" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Gnocco:</a> </strong>After three years in Highlandtown, Gnocco will open for its final night of service this Saturday, May 11. The decision comes as Chef Brian Lavin <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/gnocco-chef-brian-lavin-talks-restaurant-closure-and-move-to-the-west-coast" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">prepares for a move to the West Coast</a>. Throughout its run, the cozy Spanish and French-influenced neighborhood spot became known for its antipasti, comforting pastas, and one of the best Negronis on this side of the pond. <em>3734 Fleet St. </em></p>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.instagram.com/primecornerbaltimore/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Prime Corner:</a></strong> Sadly, the days are also numbered for Hampden’s colorful bodega on the corner of 34th Street and Chestnut Avenue. Owner Tess Russell took to social media last week to announce that the she would be closing the store at the end of the month. “The economics of a grocery are super hard,” Russell recently told the <em><a href="https://www.bizjournals.com/baltimore/news/2019/05/03/new-york-style-bodega-prime-corner-to-close-in.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Baltimore Business Journal.</a> </em>“Some months we did great, others were tougher.” In the eight months since it opened, the store became known for its artisan grocery items and pantry products from the likes of Taharka Bros., City Seeds, Donut Alliance, and The Lunchbox Lady. Here’s hoping another local operator will reactivate the neighborhood gathering space, which formerly operated as kid-friendly Play Cafe before Russell took over. <em>3400 Chestnut Ave.</em></p>

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