When patrons stop by the North Shed of Broadway Market in Fells Point, they can expect a great mix of vendors old (including Sal & Sons Seafood and Vikki’s Fells Point Deli) and new (Thai Street, Connie’s Chicken and Waffles, Old Boy). In fact, after a nine-month-long, $3-million renovation, this marks the first time in a decade that patrons can visit the North Shed, which fell into disrepair years ago and has finally gotten the spiffy update it needed.

“We knew that we had to create something that was what the market demanded in 2019,” says Stacey Pack, project manager for Lexington Market and Baltimore Public Markets. “This is like traditional market meets food hall. You have stalls like Sal’s selling fresh sh that you can take home to prepare or have it prepared there on the spot.” Adds Phil Han, who owns two of the 10 stalls, “This is an ideal reincarnation of what Broadway Market wants to be right now.”

Here are a few things to note when planning a visit:

Home Again

Three of the vendors, including Vikki’s, Sal’s Seafood, and Sophia’s actually started their businesses in the North Shed, but when it became uninhabitable, they relocated to the South Shed.

Star Stall

Sophia’s Place European Deli is the place to go for outstanding potato or kraut and mushroom pierogies, stuffed cabbage, and baked goods. Years ago, Chelsea Clinton stopped by. “She loved pierogies and kruschicki cookies,” says owner Zofia Para. “Senator Barbara Mikulski [who is of Polish descent] has also been a frequent customer.”

And. . . Action!

Old Boy’s name was, in part, inspired by Park Chanwook’s classic Korean action film Oldboy, based on a Japanese manga of the same name.

To the Dogs
Look for the bowls of water outside near the picnic seating. Broadway Market is Fido-friendly!

Fun Fact
Sal Ayala, who hails from El Salvador, came to L.A. in 1977 and worked in the fish markets, where he learned to speak many languages, including Korean. “I loved meeting Sal and having him speak to me in near fluent Korean,” says Han, who is of Korean descent. “It blew me away.” Says Sal, simply, “I’m a very smart man.”

Golden Arches
The building’s original interior arches above the floor-to-ceiling windows were covered over in the ’70s and ’80s. They’ve now been restored to their former glory and have helped drench the space in sunlight.

History Lesson
Baltimore boasts the oldest continuously operating public market system in the U.S. Baltimore Public Markets have operated even longer than the city’s health department or mayor’s office. A public lottery funded the construction of the first market in 1763. Six Baltimore City Public Markets remain, including Broadway Market—founded in 1786.

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Courtesy of Old Boy

BEST
BITES

No need to ever go hungry (or thirsty) again, especially with new extended dinner hours at Broadway Market. From Poland to Thailand to Korea to India, here are some of the best bites we’ve had thus far.

• Potato pierogies at Sophia’s Place.
• Salty caramel ice cream at Tahkara Bros.
• Tonkatsu pork cutlets and bibimbap at Old Boy.
• Fish and shrimp tacos at Sal & Sons Seafood.
• Chive dumplings at Thai Street.
• Ginger and mint lemonade at The Verandah.

OPEN

Larder: Socle, the Old Goucher food-and-drink complex from Clavel owners Lane Harlan and Matthew Pierce, is officially operating in full swing now that its final concept, Larder, has opened its doors. Joining Harlan’s natural wine bar Fadensonnen and celebrated coffee shop Sophomore Coffee in the renovated carriage house on Maryland Avenue, Larder will specialize in hyper-local dishes prepared by chef Helena del Pesco. Area produce—as well as many ingredients fermented in house—will show up in colorful dishes such as crunchy snap pea and asparagus salad and fig-leaf infused yogurt pudding with roasted peaches. While stopping by for lunch or an early dinner (normal hours will be 11 a.m.-7 p.m.), guests will also be able to peruse shelves stocked with artisan pantry goods from local purveyors like Hex Ferments and Keepwell Vinegar, and some from businesses as far as Oaxaca and San Francisco. 2223 Maryland Ave. 410-982-6246

COMING SOON

Old Boy: A grand opening party for Phil Han’s newest concepts inside Broadway Market has been set for Wednesday, May 15. All of the stalls inside the recently renovatedFells Point institution have been celebrating staggered grand openings since March. Veteran vendors Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, Sophia’s Place, and Sal’s Seafood were the first to premiere, followed by newbie Thai Street. Now, the concepts from Han of Dooby’s are ready to make their debut.

Among them is Old Boy, an authentic Korean eatery whose kitchen will be headed up by Irvin Seo of the popular Haenyo pop-up. In addition, Han’s team will operate a centerpiece bar called Fat Tiger, which is open now serving an all-day menu of coffee, beer, wine, and cocktails. The bar team will also oversee El Tigre—a tiki-inspired play on the Fat Tiger concept that will expand bar service outside to the market’s patio. At the grand opening party, guests will enjoy a soju ice luge at Old Boy, complimentary welcome punch at Fat Tiger, and plenty of tiki drinks from El Tigre outside. 1640 Aliceanna St.

Rock & Toss Crab House: The developers at Greenberg Gibbons are adding yet another eatery to Foundry Row in Owings Mills this summer. The mixed-use development already boasts plenty of fast-casual destinations including Nalley Fresh, Sunset Raw Juice Bar, Mission BBQ, and Zoë’s Kitchen, and now, this Bowie-based seafood spot is also joining the lineup. The 3,060-square-foot restaurant will offer shrimp, baby clams, green mussels, crawfish, and, of course, blue crabs. The entrees arrive covered in signature cajun, lemon pepper, or garlic-butter seasonings. 10100 Reisterstown Rd.

Whole Foods Towson: In other development news, Greenberg Gibbons and Caves Valley Partners have inked a deal with Whole Foods to be the anchor tenant in the forthcoming Towson Row project on the corner of York Road and Towsontown Boulevard. Whole Foods was announced as a tenant years ago, but later pulled out of the ongoing project. Now, the grocery chain is back on board with plans for two levels of parking, a mezzanine space, and an outdoor dining terrace. Construction on the store is expected to begin later this year and it will likely open in late 2021. When complete, the five-acre development will also include 75,000 square feet of retail and residential space, student housing units, luxury apartments, and a 220-room hotel. York Rd. & Towsontown Blvd., Towson.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/11: Diamondback Brewing Mole Stout Release
This weekend, the team from Diamondback Brewing will officially release its new bourbon barrel-aged mole stout, Tal Uno—a special collaboration with local chocolate expert Jinji Fraser of Pure Chocolate by Jinji. The 9-percent ABV beer was aged in Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels for 14 months before being infused with Jinji’s ingredients to produce notes of vanilla, spicy pepper, and dark chocolate. Swing by the South Baltimore brewery from 12-7 p.m. on Saturday to sample the release while mingling with brewers who will be on hand to discuss the yearlong process. There will also be live music by funky-folk band Gene & Friends and special Mexican pizzas fired up in the brewery’s new in-house kitchen. 1215 E. Fort Ave. 443-388-9626

SHUT

Atelier Culinaire: This Little Italy fine-dining den closed its doors late last month. Staffed by culinary students at Stratford University, the restaurant was known as a launchpad for young chefs transitioning into the industry. Regulars at the white tablecloth spot enjoyed classics like the roasted rack of lamb, beef bourguignon, and ginger-crusted salmon. There’s no word yet on what will become of the Stiles street space, which is equipped with a built-in bar and mezzanine level. 806 Stiles St.

Gnocco: After three years in Highlandtown, Gnocco will open for its final night of service this Saturday, May 11. The decision comes as Chef Brian Lavin prepares for a move to the West Coast. Throughout its run, the cozy Spanish and French-influenced neighborhood spot became known for its antipasti, comforting pastas, and one of the best Negronis on this side of the pond. 3734 Fleet St.

Prime Corner: Sadly, the days are also numbered for Hampden’s colorful bodega on the corner of 34th Street and Chestnut Avenue. Owner Tess Russell took to social media last week to announce that the she would be closing the store at the end of the month. “The economics of a grocery are super hard,” Russell recently told the Baltimore Business Journal. “Some months we did great, others were tougher.” In the eight months since it opened, the store became known for its artisan grocery items and pantry products from the likes of Taharka Bros., City Seeds, Donut Alliance, and The Lunchbox Lady. Here’s hoping another local operator will reactivate the neighborhood gathering space, which formerly operated as kid-friendly Play Cafe before Russell took over. 3400 Chestnut Ave.

When it comes to naming his restaurants, Phil Han tends to get personal. Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon is a nod to his nickname as a young boy. Cocktail bar Sugarvale is a reference to the street that he grew up on. And forthcoming Broadway Market stall Old Boy pays homage to the classic Korean dishes Han now has a deeper appreciation for as an adult. His newest spot Noona’s—meaning sister in Korean—is a dedication to his older sister, Christina.

“In really thinking about what to call this place, I thought back to how the name fits within the grander scheme of what we do,” Han says. “‘Noona’ is a term of respect, specifically from a younger guy to his older sister.”

To further the dedication to his only sibling, Han worked alongside Christina on design and menu details for the Midtown-Belvedere restaurant. Even the logo for the new shop mimics his sister’s natural handwriting.

But beyond just their names, the restaurant concepts also serve as a way to give diners a glimpse at Han’s upbringing: “Like every other kid, almost every birthday party that I went to growing up was always surrounded by pizza as this central food,” he says.

Noona’s—which opens today in the former home of Two Boots Pizza in the Fitzgerald Apartment Building—features a menu of signature sourdough-crust pies topped with ingredients like pancetta and shallots, potatoes and leeks, and classic pepperoni and mozzarella. The offerings will also include larger entrees like braised lamb with mint farro or roasted pork loin with broccoli rabe.

“The menu certainly has a big pizza element to it, but we also just wanted it to be a good neighborhood restaurant,” Han says. “That was so key to where we wanted it to go. We thought about how it doesn’t have to be just a pizza place with a few traditional pizzas and garlic knots. It can be something more than that.”

Though there are some tie-ins to the Korean-fusion flavors at Dooby’s, including a kimchi pork belly pie and similar coffee and pastry program, Han says he wanted Noona’s to have its own identity.

The 55-seat space is a bit more modern, with mirrors by Artstar Baltimore, custom furniture by Goodwood Design, hanging ball light fixtures, a mix of individual and communal tables, and an L-shaped bar—which will be staffed by some familiar faces from his other businesses.

“The bar program is going to be very much driven by the Sugarvale team,” Han explains. “However, it’s going to be a touch more approachable. Sugarvale draws a lot more of the cocktail fanatic crowd, whereas this is more about how the drinks pair well with the food.”

Aside from six local brews on tap, the bar will also offer beers, prosecco cocktails, and a rotating list of signature drinks. Among them are a house Negroni and the “Della Tristezza,” which fuses rum, Strega liqueur, lime, grapefruit, pineapple, cane sugar, and molasses bitters.

An outdoor seating area with views of Mount Royal Station is also in the works for the warmer months. Han hopes that Noona’s becomes a go-to for locals commuting from Penn Station, as well as MICA and University of Baltimore students strolling around the area.

“It’s definitely a new neighborhood for us, but the way I think about it, it still feels like home field advantage,” Han says, mentioning that many Midtown residents are regulars at Dooby’s. “This definitely feels like familiar territory, and it feels great to be able to continue those relationships.”

COMING SOON

Broadway Market: Earlier this week, Mayor Catherine Pugh announced six stalls that will be setting up shop inside the renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point this winter. Slated to debut in February, the north shed of the redesigned public market will house local icon Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, farmers’ market favorite Thai Street, social justice-driven ice cream purveyor Taharka Bros., Hampden-based Indian eatery The Verandah, and Old Boy—an authentic Korean concept from Phil Han of Dooby’s. Han will also operate the market’s centerpiece bar, which will feature an elevated coffee program and brunch menu during the day, and draft beer and cocktails in the evening.

Returning to the revamped space will be longtime vendors Sal’s Seafood, Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, and Sophia’s Place, the European cafe and bakery that first opened in the market in 1986. There is still one stall that has yet to be leased. Once the north shed reopens, construction will begin on the south shed, which will house collaborative seafood spot The Choptank from Atlas Restaurant Group and Captain James Landing. 1640 Aliceanna St.

Lyfe Cafe: Be on the lookout for this new dining destination at The Shops at Kenilworth while checking out the mall’s beloved holiday train garden this season. Expected to open in early 2019 (just in time to get started on those New Year’s resolutions), the healthful spot from local owner Penny Seabolt will feature an all-day menu prepared with ingredients that promote physical and mental wellness (think protein pancakes and waffles, a kale detox salad with lemon-tahini dressing, smoothie bowls, and wellness shots). The eatery is designed to accommodate every major diet—including low-calorie, gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan, and vegetarian—and will also offer meal prep services. The 1,788-square-foot cafe will be located next to Wilkes & Riley on the ground level of the recently-renovated Towson shopping plaza. 800 Kenilworth Drive, Towson

OPEN

The Common Kitchen: The food hall trend—which has taken off in Baltimore with spots like R. House, Mount Vernon Marketplace, and the upcoming Whitehall Mill—has now spread to Clarksville with this new communal space that will house 11 artisan makers. A grand opening celebration is scheduled for this Saturday, November 10, where local schools will perform live music and vendors like Scoop & Paddle ice cream and Indian street food shop Namaste Foodie will offer opening day specials. Located near Food Plenty inside the environmentally sustainable Clarksville Commons, the gathering space will mark the first food hall in all of Howard County. Other stalls to look out for include Egyptian eatery Koshary by Misteka, bubble tea purveyor Royaltea, barbecue joint Smokin’ on the Bayou, and Trifecto—a coffee and juice bar specializing in Ceremony Coffee drinks and colorful acai bowls. 12240 Clarksville Pike, Clarksville. 301-854-2090

Pat’s Select Pizza and Asian Garden: These new BYOB restaurants are opening next door to one another at the Crestridge Center in Cockeysville this month. The eateries are expected to be popular lunch destinations in the development, which features two office buildings and one retail property. Pat’s, a fast-casual pizza chain that is now open, features its signature brick-oven pies alongside flatbreads, burgers, salads, and a lengthy list of pasta dishes. Slated to debut next week, Asian Garden will highlight Chinese, Japanese, and Thai staples ranging from sushi to bowls of lo mein and pad thai. 10151-10155 York Road, Cockeysville

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/12: Sweat: Our World, Your Stage
Everyman Theatre is known for bridging the gap between the food and theater world. The downtown showhouse is continuing that creativity with a Veteran’s Day event at Checkerspot Brewing that ties into the themes of Everyman’s current production, Sweat—a slice-of-life drama about steel mill workers facing a plant shutdown who routinely gather at their neighborhood bar. Make your way to the South Baltimore brewery to sip craft beers while watching scenes from the play, and listening in on a conversation comparing the themes in the script to the current hardships facing our own neighbors. Ten percent of all ticket proceeds will benefit South Baltimore-based nonprofit The Baltimore Station, which works to support homeless veterans and reintegrate them into the workforce. 1399 S. Sharp St. 6-8:30 p.m. $15

11/16: Intercostal Breakdown
Fittingly named after the anatomical term that means “situated between the ribs,” this one-night-only barbecue pop-up, hosted by food writer Amy Langrehr of Charm City Cook, will feature smoked ribs cooked on custom-built cages and grills. Head to Monument City Brewing in Highlandtown to sample meats prepared by chef Patrick Morrow of South Point and chef Damian Mosley of Blacksauce Kitchen. The evening will also feature $5 Monument City beers all night, and Annapolis-based folk rockers Ampersand Stringband playing live from 7:30-9:30 p.m. 1 N. Haven St. Free. 5-10 p.m.

Since opening his Korean-inspired cafe Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon in 2014, Phil Han has witnessed the city’s food scene expand with globally diverse concepts that take diners everywhere from the islands of Thailand to the mountains of Senegal.

“When Dooby’s opened, we played a very fine balancing act of introducing some Korean ingredients, but at the same time making a menu that was a little more approachable for the broader audience,” says Han, who also owns cocktail bar Sugarvale and forthcoming pizza spot Noona’s. “Where we are food-wise as a city has certainly progressed and caught its bearings since then.”

Han made it a priority to reflect that evolution when he was asked to assist with the vendor selection process for the newly renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point. It was announced today that the revamped north shed of the 232-year-old property—between Fleet and Aliceanna streets—will house 10 stalls, both old and new, when it reopens in early 2019.

Aside from new locations for Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, Taharka Bros. Ice Cream, Thai Street, and The Verandah, veteran vendors Sal’s Seafood, Sophia’s Place, and Vikki’s Fells Point Deli will make up the market. Han himself also plans to introduce two new concepts, an all-day centerpiece bar and an authentic Korean eatery called Old Boy.

The Dooby’s spinoff will feature bar seating that allows diners to engage with their servers and learn more about the authentic dishes that Han grew up with. He mentions homestyle options like tonkatsu, a deep-fried pork cutlet, and dakbokkeumtang, spicy chicken braised with vegetables and spices.

“You’ll certainly see modern interpretations throughout the menu,” he says. “But it’s still built so that if my parents were to come in with their friends they would very much feel at home with the dishes that were presented.”

While partially inspired by a classic Korean action film, Old Boy’s name also pays homage to the idea that, as Han has grown older, has has developed a deeper appreciation for the classic dishes that he grew up eating with his family.

“I used to be that kid who would bring a Happy Meal into Korean restaurants,” he recalls. “Now I realize that the food my mom cooked when I was younger is the food that I’m craving more often. This is what I want to eat, and it’s a return of a deeper appreciation and representation of where I came from.”

Not far from Old Boy’s stall will be Han’s yet-to-be-named bar, which will offer an array of cappuccinos and lattes in the morning, as well as house made pastries and its own New American-style brunch menu. Situated under a gleaming skylight, the bar will also serve a menu of beer, wine, and cocktails during the evening hours.

Though they’re only a few hundred square feet, the goal is for both concepts to have distinct and inviting styles—which will be executed by a hyper-local design team that includes PI.KL Studio, Goodwood Design, and Sandtown Millworks.

“With Old Boy, you’ll see a little bit of homage to that old-school Korean look, which generally lends itself to a lot of natural wood tones,” Han says. “We just really want to create this warm space where it feels inviting to come over and sit down.”

The redesigned north shed, which has sat vacant for more than a decade, is expected to debut in February. Following in the summer of 2019 will be the premiere of The Choptank, a collaborative seafood concept from Atlas Restaurant Group and Captain James Landing, which will open in the neighboring south shed.

Aside from reactivating the Fells Point space, Han is enthusiastic about what a concept like this means for the future of the Baltimore food scene.

“I think sometimes people get a little bit too fixated on what’s closing,” he says. “But there’s definitely some positivity and growth happening in Baltimore. It’s an exciting time to see some of these younger food guys getting a shot at a bigger game.”