As part of her morning routine, Old Goucher resident Rebekah Horowitz starts most days with an eight-block walk to Sophomore Coffee.

“It’s such a nice community place to be,” she says. “The coffee is great and I love that [owner] Kris [Fulton] roasts his own coffee, but part of the reason I go is that my dog, Jacques, walks me there. He is also a very big fan of Sophomore.” (This may have something to do with the Milk-Bones they keep in a jar on the counter.) “If they’re closed for some reason, I have to fight him not to walk me there,” she says.

While Sophomore gets plenty of traffic, Horowitz—and her pit bull/dachshund mix—hold the honor of being the cafe’s top customers (this is a measurable metric thanks to a dining app that tracks customer frequency). Horowitz, who works remotely for a public health organization in D.C., sees Sophomore as not only part of her regular ritual but an extension of her wider world.

“The people who work there are lovely and a lot of them live in the neighborhood or close by, so you see people not just at the coffee shop, but at the pool or walking on the street,” she says. “One of the people who used to work there is even my dog sitter now.”

While Jacques always gets a dog treat, Horowitz has small seasonal fluctuations in her order: drip coffee with a splash of milk in the colder months, iced coffee in the warmer ones, and an ice cube in her hot coffee during transitional periods. Sometimes she gets her drinks to go, other times she sits and stays. Her canine GPS leads her there before 8 a.m. most weekdays and a bit later on weekends.

“They know what I’m going to order, and it’s ready for me right away,” say Horowitz. “And the staff knows about my work, they know when I’m out of town for a few days. If I go on vacation, they ask me how it was. Going to Sophomore just feels like I’m not only going and buying something but having a quick little catch-up with my friends—it’s a touchstone.”

In a city that’s fiercely dedicated to its sports teams, quirky traditions, and all things crab, Baltimore’s loyalty extends just as ardently to its coffeehouses, cafes, bars, and other eating and drinking establishments. And at a time when life feels increasingly isolated and automated, being a regular somewhere can offer something essential: a sense of belonging.

With repeated visits, a restaurant staff gets to know patrons’ predilections, drink orders, names of their children and grandchildren, anniversaries and birthdays, and details about their personal and professional lives.

Sophomore owner Kris Fulton first fell in love with hospitality because he liked the relational aspect of the business. In his first hospitality job at 19, he worked at the now-closed City Dock Coffee in Annapolis. The staff there was encouraged to adopt what they called “the Cheers mentality,” where, as the lyrics to the hit TV ’80s sitcom theme song say, “Everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came.”

“The idea was that you should know 70 percent of your customers by name or drink order when they walked in,” says Fulton. “Sometimes you’d see people walking down the street coming toward you and present them with their drink before they even got to the register—it made their day.”

Being a regular also offers the opportunity for patrons to connect not only with staff but with one another.

“The fact that we are a small space works in our favor,” says Fulton. “When people take the time to sit and have a coffee here, they’re right next to each other. And if they start a conversation with me behind the counter, they’re basically having a conversation with the room. It’s exciting to see some of those connections happen.”

“GOING TO SOPHOMORE JUST FEELS LIKE I’M HAVING A QUICK LITTLE CATCH-UP WITH MY FRIENDS—IT’S A TOUCHSTONE.”

Coffeehouses as gathering spots is nothing new—the concept dates back as far back as the Ottoman Empire, where people of different social classes could gather for intellectual and often political debate. Taverns as meeting spots dates to ancient Greece and Rome, white-tablecloth restaurants first became hot spots in Paris in the 1700s, dive bars became hangouts in the late 1800s, and diners turned into social hubs after World War II.

Pretty much anywhere food or drink are served have long been places to gather. But wherever people flock, the reason is much the same: Being a regular gives patrons a sense of camaraderie, community, and connection.

Local coffee shop owner Dave Sherman, of Catalog Coffee in Hampden, has witnessed the bonds that form over freddo cappuccinos and sage lattes.

“We have a ton of people that use us as that third space,” he says, explaining how the coffee shop fills the need to congregate outside home or work (in this remote landscape, it sometimes is the office). “And they’re great customers. They come in and they’ll work on their laptop on our two-tops, and then as soon as we start to get busy, they’ll migrate over to our community table, often networking and just building more community. I’ve definitely seen some friendships form between staff and guests and then between the guests themselves—we’ve seen a couple of romantic connections happening, too.”

Gino Cardinale, co-owner of Tark’s Grill & Bar in Lutherville, says that creating connections is part and parcel of owning an eating establishment.

“Restaurants are not just a place to feed yourself and spend money,” he says. “When they’re working, they’re about connecting with people.”

As much as regulars love their roles in restaurants, restaurants need them, too. Regulars are, if you will, the bread and butter of every restaurant—the patrons who a place can reliably count on to fill seats (or barstools). Through thick and thin (to wit: the pandemic), regulars stay loyal to the brand.

“When you open a restaurant, you have to think past the sizzle of a grand opening and [attention] that you’re bound to get in the beginning,” says Cardinale. “If a restaurant doesn’t find a way to connect with its core community in the location that it’s in, they’re not going to make it long term—the flip side of that is that if you do, you can thrive for decades.”

WHEREVER PEOPLE FLOCK, THE REASON IS THE SAME: BEING A REGULAR GIVES PATRONS A SENSE OF CAMARADERIE, COMMUNITY, AND CONNECTION.

If there’s a formula for how to keep them coming, Cardinale seems to have figured it out.

“Running a restaurant is not always about reaching people who’ve never heard of you before, it’s really about connecting with those who already have,” he says. “There’s no better indicator that you’re doing something right in the restaurant business than when people come back time and again. At Tark’s, we have people who come for lunch, and then hours later, they come for dinner all on the same day—and that’s several days a week.”

For dedicated regulars like that, their favorite haunt isn’t just a place where everybody knows their name—it’s a place that feels like home.

About six months or so per year, some two to three nights a week whenever Hampden/Woodberry residents Melanie and Shawn McMahon are in town, they can be found standing—yes, standing—near the window at the zinc bar at Petit Louis Bistro.

The fact that the bar doesn’t have any seating doesn’t stop them from ordering food and drinks. Given that the McMahons both have desk jobs, they prefer to stand while they eat.

“We used to eat at a table but sometime after the pandemic, we planted ourselves in the corner of the bar and never left,” says Melanie with a laugh. “Now, we’re wearing a hole in that corner.”

The McMahons are diehard supporters of the Roland Park restaurant. They dine at Louis so frequently, they know the menu by heart, have befriended (and socialize with) certain staffers, and can cite chapter and verse of every  aspect of the place, including the daily specials and the names of nearly every person on staff.

“We’ve really developed relationships with the staff,” says Shawn. “The staff is the first thing that draws us here—everyone has been lovely to us from the first time we walked in the door and eating here always feels like coming home.”

In fact, when Shawn and Melanie are away for any extended time, or driving back from a long road trip, it’s often their first stop.

“The biggest testament to the place is that we don’t even drive home first when we’ve been away,” says Shawn. “We drive straight to Louis—that’s our welcome back.”

Even when they’re away, in fact, Louis is never far from their thoughts. “When we were in Paris, [maître d’hôtel] Patrick Del Valle arranged for us to have a meal at Chez l’ Ami Louis,” says Melanie. “That’s the restaurant that Petit Louis was based on.”

Fourteen years ago, when the McMahons started patronizing Louis, they first were lured by the wide-ranging French bistro fare.

“It started because we both work full-time and going out to dinner is often an easy solution after a long day of work,” says Melanie. “We have very different taste in food, so we agreed that whenever we couldn’t agree on what to have at home, we’d go to Petit Louis.”

In the early years that meant having dinner there once a week. These days, the legal marketing partner says it’s closer to three times a week and she and Shawn each have their favorite orders.

Shawn likes the salad verte and the Saturday night beef short rib special; Melanie gravitates to the steak tartare, a Monday night special, and the gravlax appetizer.  He drinks Tito’s with muddled lime, followed by a glass of Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône; she gets a glass of Champagne or Pinot Noir. If friends join them, they’ll make an exception, grab a table, and order the whole roasted chicken.

“We’ve been eating there for so long, and know the menu so well, that Patrick has joked he’s going to give me the test he gives to new servers to see if I could pass,” says Melanie.

What motivates them to go there now has become something deeper. “For us, Petit Louis is not a just a place eat dinner,” says Melanie. “We’ve really developed relationships with the staff. Going there feels more like visiting family.”

Like the McMahons, John Groopman and his wife, Hilary, have formed deep friendships as dining devotees of La Cuchara in Hampden-Woodberry.*

“We have a standing Sunday night reservation there,” says Groopman, a researcher at the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health. “We can’t think of a better way to start the week.”

The married couple has been eating at the Basque-inspired restaurant ever since it opened in a historic mill in 2015.

“We’ve known [co-owners] Jake, Ben, and Amy for quite a while,” says Groopman. “We were there in the first or second week after they opened. In the early years, we’d sit at the bar and have pinxtos and we’d go not because we knew a lot about Basque Country cooking but because it was just a wonderful setting and we got to know a lot of people who work there—and we still do.”

Sunday also happens to be half-price wine night—never a bad thing—and they always sit at table 40 toward the back of the restaurant, near the heart of the flaming asador that’s loaded with grilled meat and seafood. The restaurant has also been woven into the fabric of their post-Thanksgiving tradition—they now dine with their whole extended family there.

Though they’ve eaten their way through most of the menu, John and Hilary have their favorite dishes, of course. “If Ben is making tuna-stuffed piquillo peppers, that’s an essential, the shrimp a la planxta and the mussels are always a winner, and the dayboat scallops are pretty good,” he says. “And we always order the chorizo Manchego pintxos.”

Being an insider has its advantages, too. “When the kitchen is experimenting, we get to taste stuff, too,” he says.  “And going to La Cuchara inspired us to visit San Sebastian and learn much about enjoying the wines of Spain.”

The Groopmans have gotten so close with the owners, they’ve even invited them to dinner in their own home, where they were the ones doing the cooking.

Like the Groopmans, Horowitz has found a sense of kindship thanks to her routine rounds.

“Kris and I do a lot of chatting inside and outside Sophomore,” she says. “We run in a lot of the same spaces and same circles.”

In November, Fulton was invited to celebrate Jacques’ “barkmitzvah.” Because Jacques is such a fixture, for a long time, he was even the Wi-Fi password for the cafe.

“People would stop me on the street and say hi to him because they recognized him from his picture on the sign with the coffee shop’s password,” says Horowitz, laughing.

Horowitz considers being a regular a vital part—and perk—of urban living.

“Having that routine is a special part of living in the city,” she says. “People talk a lot about how a city is anonymous, because so many people live there places like Sophomore remind us how much of a community we are living in. Baltimore’s a very livable city, so it’s a real opportunity to be in the big city, but not at all be anonymous.”

*Editor’s Note: As of online publication in early January, La Cuchara was closed indefinitely in the wake of a fire that originated in the building’s ventilation system. Thankfully, no one was hurt.

→ Aveley Farms Coffee Roasters
Towson

Corey Voelkel was living in California working in the tech industry when a cup of coffee sourced from a farm in Guatemala changed the trajectory of his life. Soon, he quit his job, bought a 12-kilo roaster from a person in Florida, then moved back home to open his own roasting house and cafe in Harbor East. (He’s since moved the shop to Towson.) His goal is simple: to bring the highest quality coffee he can from around the world, roast it here, and share it with his customers.

“Our big thing is sustainable sourcing,” he says. “We also want to pay a fair price, so I can go back to these farms year after year and know they’re still going to be there.” The signature drink is a macadamia nut latte, but the cold brew also is a big seller. In September, it was canned for the first time, in a partnership with Oliver Brewing. Since Aveley Farms doesn’t have a kitchen, pastries from local bakers such as Little Fig Bake Shop and Ovenbird are sold daily. There’s nothing particularly high-tech about a great cup of coffee and a fresh-baked muffin, but that’s okay with Voelkel—and us.

→ Black Acres Roastery
Highlandtown

Travis Bell has been bringing a world of coffee flavors to Highlandtown since he started Black Acres Roastery in 2018. He was a resident of the neighborhood and thought it was the perfect location for a roaster, so, after training in Minneapolis, he opened the business and hasn’t looked back. Black Acres (a name inspired by the first systematic reparations attempt for newly freed slaves) sources its beans primarily from Africa and South America. Its cold brew, sold both from taps and in cans, is a year-round favorite. The Marrakesh variety is a medium-roast coffee steeped in cinnamon and cardamom, inspired by Moroccan recipes.

“We like to be creative with the coffees we do,” Bell says. “I love the reaction of people when they taste our coffee. They don’t get the bitterness or bland taste.” Customers can order beans or drinks to-go or via delivery apps, and in the coming months, they’ll have the option to sit in the cafe Bell plans to open onsite at the SEYA CrossFit and Wellness Center. Coffee, he believes, offers limitless possibilities.

→ The Common Ground
Hampden

For nearly a quarter-century, this small but mighty 36th Street mainstay has been a gathering place for Hampden residents pining for a high-quality cup of coffee and a bite to eat. Of course, characterizing the beloved coffee shop’s offerings in those basic terms is a massive simplification. Although it gets its beans from Ceremony Coffee Roasters in Annapolis and Baltimore’s own Zeke’s, many people can’t resist its smoothies, particularly the wildly popular chai peanut butter-banana variety.

“No matter how cold it seems to get, we always get a lot of repeat customers for that,” manager Ryan Comstock says. Much of its food is made in-house, including blueberry, cranberry walnut, raspberry, and chocolate-chip muffins. It has numerous vegan options, like garlic hummus and chili, and, at lunchtime, the homemade chicken salad is always a hit. 

OPEN

Sophomore Coffee: This inviting coffee shop is the latest concept to debut at Socle—the Old Goucher food and beverage complex from the team behind W.C. Harlan and Clavel. Joining natural wine bar Fadensonnen and yet-to-open cafe Larder, Sophomore Coffee will offer a single-origin house drip, espresso drinks, and flash brew options when it officially opens its doors to the public this Saturday, April 13. Owners Kris Fulton and Ann Travers Fortune, two of the original founders of Charmington’s in Remington, created the inclusive space with amenities for working, an area for small gatherings, retail shelves stocked with goods from Hunting Ground in Hampden, and a courtyard shared with Fadensonnen.

The inclusive vibe goes along with the shop’s mission to combat the snobby stigmas in coffee culture: “If there isn’t an overarching energy that promotes discovery and learning, it can be very off-putting,” Fulton told us last summer. “But if you create an environment that is inviting, people are going to feel comfortable taking that journey with you.” 2223 Maryland Ave.

The Urban Oyster: In only a few short months, chef/owner Jasmine Norton has transformed the old Ruby 8 space in Locust Point from a trendy sushi spot into a bright, airy homebase for her seafood pop-up The Urban Oyster. Boasting white walls, pops of bronze, and beautiful oyster canvas paintings by Annapolis artist Kim Hovell, the McHenry Row eatery will offer Norton’s famous raw and chargrilled oysters alongside other oceanic fare. Officially debuting on Friday, April 12, the spot will feature shrimp tacos, burgers topped with crab dip, fried cod sandwiches, and a hyper-local drink menu. (Look out for cans of Union Skipjack, a rosé spritzer from Old Westminster Winery, and cocktails curated by local bartender Aaron Joseph.) “A lot of things we’re incorporating in our menu are from local businesses that have opened their platforms for us to do pop-ups in the past,” Norton says. “It’s nice that we now have the opportunity to return the favor.” 1704 Whetstone Way.

Akira Ramen & Izakaya: From barbecue bites to Greek gyros, The Shops at Canton Crossing already offers plenty of dining diversity. But this week, the development added even more to love with the premiere of this Rockville-based ramen spot. Now operating in soft-opening mode, Akira’s second location specializes in steamy bowls filled with house-made noodles, bean sprouts, scallions, pork, fish cakes, eggs, and Wood Ear mushrooms. The menu also offers other snacks like pork gyoza, vegetable spring rolls, and yellowtail carpaccio. 3501 Boston St.

Garden Party: Now that it’s finally starting to feel like spring, it’s high time that this outdoor bar made its return to The Rotunda in Hampden. The team behind Avenue Kitchen & Bar has officially reopened Garden Party, which debuted last summer and quickly became a go-to for adults in need of a refresher while watching little ones run around the Rotunda’s green space. Returning menu highlights include Avenue Kitchen’s signature frosé, wines by the glass, Orange Crushes, crab cakes, charcuterie, and salads. 711 W. 40th St.

TinyBrickOven: This new Federal Hill pizza shop gives the term “fast-casual” a whole new meaning. Owner Will Fagg fires up the artisan pies using his titular invention—a portable brick oven that cooks personal-size pizzas in less than two minutes. Taking over the former home of Grilled Cheese & Co. on Light Street, the spot offers customizable vegan and non-vegan pizzas, as well as authentic gelato. Save room for flavors including strawberry, pistachio, dulce de leche, and vegan vanilla. 1036 Light St.

COMING SOON

Raw Bar: Canton locals will be happy to hear that the former Boathouse space at Tindeco Wharf is getting reactivated this summer. Pending liquor board approval, the team from Bond Street Social and Barcocina in Fells Point will be opening this new seafood spot on the dockside property, which features a massive outdoor patio and modern-industrial interior. According to a statement from Bond Street Social general manager Shane Gerken, Raw Bar will offer fresh takes on seafood dishes in an “upscale, yet approachable social environment.” 2809 Boston St.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

4/12: Harbor Market Kickoff
This seasonal lunch market, which assembles at McKeldin Square on Wednesdays and Fridays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., is starting up three weeks earlier than usual this year. Launching in conjunction with Maryland Food Truck Week, the inaugural event will feature free food samples, live music, dessert options, and, of course, plenty of outdoor lawn games to make your lunch break feel more like recess. Throughout the season, be on the lookout for food trucks including Farm to Charm, The Smoking Swine, Mexican on the Run, The Green Bowl, Wild Thyme, and more. 101 E. Pratt St.

4/13: Wild Kombucha UpBeet Flavor Release Party
It’s been an exciting year for this local kombucha purveyor, which recently moved into a new 13,000-square-foot production space in northwest Baltimore and is now distributing across the Mid-Atlantic. To celebrate its latest flavor UpBeet—fermented with organic beets apple, ginger, and lime juice—the brand is teaming up with Mouth Party Caramel and the Chesapeake Bay Foundation to host a celebration at Mobtown Ballroom this weekend. Swing by to sip UpBeet cocktails while enjoying eats from Pablo’s Toc O’s and live music by Bedlam Brass. A portion of proceeds will benefit the Chesapeake Bay Foundation’s mission to reduce pollution in our waterways. Mobtown Ballroom, 861 Washington Blvd. 7-11 p.m. $12

SHUT

Smoke: When this Cockeysville spot landed on the scene four years ago, it quickly became known for putting a creative spin on classic barbecue. Chef Josh White captivated diners—not only with his catchy music videos promoting daily specials—but also with frequent pop-ups and fingerlickin’ fare including sticky spare ribs and smoked wings with thyme bleu cheese. Sadly, Smoke served its final meal last week. “The decision to close was not an easy one, and comes with a very heavy heart,” White and co-owner Hope Seidl announced last week. “We are trying to focus on all the happiness we were able to bring our community over the last 3.5 years, rather than on how heartbreaking it truly is.” The post goes on to thank the local dining community for its support, and teases that this won’t be the last we see of Smoke in the future. “This is not goodbye,” the owners write. “This is thank you, we love you, and we’ll see you later.”

Even veteran barista Kris Fulton knows that, sometimes, craft coffee shops can feel snobby.

“If there isn’t an overarching energy that promotes discovery and learning, it can be very off-putting,” he says. “But if you create an environment that is inviting, people are going to feel comfortable taking that journey with you.”

To combat the coffee culture stigma, Fulton and his partner Ann Travers Fortune are opening Sophomore Coffee—a welcoming shop inside the shared space that Clavel co-owner Lane Harlan is developing in Old Goucher. The property will also house Harlan’s outdoor beer garden concept and a neighborhood food counter and grocery store.

Though he’s racked up more than a decade of experience working for roasteries across the country, the new space will be the first that Fulton can call his own. The Anne Arundel County native got his start in the industry at Annapolis landmark City Dock Coffee and later moved to Baltimore where he became one of the founders of Charmington’s, along with Travers, in Remington in 2010.

His post at the now-closed Lamill Coffee inside the Four Seasons Baltimore spawned a new opportunity for him to work for the company in Los Angeles, and most recently, Fulton headed up education and training efforts for Brooklyn-based Toby’s Estate Coffee in New York. Ultimately, after four years abroad, the pull of Baltimore beckoned him home.

“Baltimore shaped who I am in a lot of ways,” he says. “I always knew I wanted to come back here. And when I did, it was pretty noticeable that the whole city structure had shifted a bit. Places like R. House and Clavel had opened up—there was just so much that had happened.”

Expected to join the city’s robust food scene this fall, Sophomore Coffee will feature a seasonal program with blends from Toby’s Estate—including a single-origin house drip, espresso drinks, and flash-brew options. The starting menu will be small, and perhaps most notably, it will lack terms like “cappuccino,” “latte,” or “macchiato.”

“We want to educate people in a simplified way,” Fulton says. “And we want to explain that if you’re getting a larger espresso milk beverage, you’re actually getting more milk and not as much coffee. These are all interactions I’ve had in the past that can very easily spark a pretentious vibe, especially if you’re talking to someone who is saying, ‘a macchiato is this or a cappuccino is that.’ It creates a tension that doesn’t really need to be there.”

In keeping with the inclusive feel, Fulton is using smaller, low-profile pieces of equipment behind the counter, ensuring that customers are able to communicate and ask questions about their drinks without feeling like the machines create a barrier.

“We’re going to try our best to shed light on the fact that some coffee beans might be more expensive because of the work put into creating them,” Fulton says. “But we’re also going to work with coffees that are approachable, and offer flavor profiles that aren’t so hard to wrap your head around or aren’t so different than what you expect coffee to taste like.”

The interior, designed by Travers, will also reflect the owners’ mantra with soft shades of yellow and pink, high-top bar seating with built-in power outlets, an L-shaped area for meetings and gatherings, and a mobile accent wall that also works as a sliding gate for the back entrance. Fulton says he is especially excited about the property’s shared courtyard, which will be accessible to coffee patrons during the day and transition into Harlan’s beer garden at night.

Though the space won’t debut to the public until the end of the summer, Fulton and Travers have been giving locals a taste of their offerings at a recurring pop-up at Hunting Ground in Hampden—which returns for one last installment this Saturday, June 16 from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. He says that he’s enjoyed having a personal interaction with patrons, and is looking forward to meeting regular customers at Sophomore Coffee—cleverly named after he and Travers’ second venture in the business, the first being Charmington’s.

“I’ve always thought the coffee could be a regular luxury item,” he says. “It’s something you have that is really made with care from the best ingredients. I’ve always made the joke that the coffee P. Diddy can drink, I can drink, too. You can’t say that about a lot of other things that P. Diddy has. It’s a sensible luxury.”