Throughout the past few years, the brick exterior of the shop stationed at the corner of West 34th Street and Chestnut Avenue in Hampden has boasted many different colorful murals. Locals might remember the red tricycle that graced the facade when it operated as kid-friendly Play Cafe, or the most recent funky wall design that welcomed neighbors into New York City-style bodega Prime Corner.

Now, the entrance is decorated with hand-painted trees and vines that represent the ethos of Treehouse Cafe and Juice Bar—a new holistic concept that features an entirely gluten-free menu of juices, smoothies, soups, salads, wraps, and pizzas.

“What we’ve seen more than anything else is how much the neighborhood wants something to succeed in the space,” says Kirsten LaPointe, a fitness instructor at Movement Lab in Remington who co-owns Treehouse with fellow yoga teacher Shariff Roberts. “Everyone has come by and been so kind and supportive. Even the people who came in and weren’t so sure they wanted only healthy choices were willing to roll with them.”

As a certified nutritionist, Roberts had always wanted to open his own juice bar. And LaPointe, who worked as an art teacher before joining the local fitness scene, had long envisioned opening a bed-and-breakfast where she grew her own ingredients. Together, they came up with a menu that fuses the two ideas while incorporating superfoods—including turmeric, flax seeds, cacao, and MCT oils—that are medicinal to the body.

“Both of us are coming from the same angle of nurturing people,” LaPointe says. “We want our customers to feel like they’re having a treat, even though it’s all healthy.”

A few of LaPointe’s favorite dishes include the gluten-free pizzas made with vegan cheese, savory hand pies that resemble empanadas, a vegan charcuterie board highlighting smoked hummus and caper berries, and a roasted root salad topped with orange and purple sweet potatoes.

After trying to make the concept work in another space for a number of months, the owners switched gears when they learned that the former Prime Corner store was available.

“Oddly enough, all of the equipment that I had collected for the other location fit into this space just like a puzzle,” LaPointe says. “I got it all in, and I couldn’t even stick a nickel in between two things.”

Once all of the equipment was in place, the team got to work decorating the 50-seat cafe with steel chairs, reclaimed furniture from Second Chance, and new countertops made with live wood collected by local arborists.

“That’s what makes it Treehouse,” LaPointe says, mentioning that she hopes to add ficus and fairy lights soon. “Our name originally came from the beautiful yard and tree at the first location we attempted, but I think it also works here because it hints at the story that everything is made of fruits and vegetables. We’re also using sustainable packaging.”

Though the space is currently operating in soft-opening mode, an official grand opening party is scheduled for Wednesday, October 30 from 5-9 p.m. The pre-Halloween bash will feature free wine and card readings by Bonnie Tarantino.

Overall, LaPointe says she’s looking forward to getting to know the neighborhood—especially those who might be skeptical about making a healthy lifestyle change.

“The joy I get is when someone feels better because of something that I served them,” she says. “What I’ve been saying is, ‘It’s our party and everyone is invited.’”

Penny Seabolt was overweight, the mother of twins, divorced, and mourning the loss of her father when she decided to change her life. Now, almost 15 years later, she opened a restaurant, Lyfe Café at The Shops at Kenilworth in Towson, that reflects the positive changes she made. Along the way, Seabolt became a nutritionist, a personal trainer, and a professional body builder. She recently stopped competing to focus on her new business.

Seabolt, who grew up and still lives in Lutherville, chose the location because she wanted to be close to the home she shares with her husband and Lyfe co-owner Andrew Seabolt and her now teenaged twins, Madison and Thomas Smith. “It’s my community,” she says.

At Lyfe, diners will find an attractive, industrialized space with warm touches such as a comfy peach-hued sofa, earth-tone tables, greenery, and a smiling Buddha. You place an order at the counter, grab a seat, and wait for your meal. It’s not fast food, so it can take a few extra minutes to be delivered to you.

Sauces and baked goods are made fresh by chefs who follow Seabolt’s recipes for all types of diets. “I wanted a place where carnivores, vegetarians, and vegans could eat,” she says.

I couldn’t have been happier to find out that the cafe serves breakfast all day. The breakfast burrito was an afternoon treat. I chose a whole-wheat tortilla and grilled chicken rolled into a plump tube with cooked egg whites, cheddar cheese, avocado slices, black bean pico de gallo, and turkey bacon. The varied textures and flavors melded deliciously. The accompanying fruit bowl with melon, pineapple, and grapes complemented the savory wrap.

There’s a help-yourself cold case filled with beverages like Wild Kombucha in various flavors, Vitamin Water, and Perrier. I opted for a freshly made cold-pressed juice called Sunrise that blazed with color and flavor from its apple, strawberry, and grapefruit components.

On another visit, I tried a steak burger with Parmesan cheese, romaine lettuce, tomato, and onion on an artisan roll. It was juicy and filling, especially with a side dish of cucumber-tomato salad lightly slicked with balsamic vinaigrette.

I also tucked into a spicy Thai bowl with tri-color quinoa. The peanut sauce had a slight zing—just enough to tingle your taste buds, not set them on fire. The viscous topping brightened a gorgeous pile of chicken, steak, Portobello mushrooms, broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus, and chopped peanuts. The Harbor Port salmon bowl is another popular item, Seabolt says, with grilled salmon, an assortment of vegetables, and mango salsa. Indulge in a peanut butter cookie, made with coconut sugar, to end on a sweet note.

The portions are so generous that you’ll likely have leftovers. I did. That makes the prices—$15.99 for a burger, $14.99 for steak and eggs, $13.99 for a chopped salad—easi- er to swallow. Seabolt is already looking to- ward a future of more restaurants. “I have really big plans,” she says. “I want people to know my name.”

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›› Lyfe Cafe
800 Kenilworth Drive, The Shops at Kenilworth, Towson, 410-842-1050. Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.: Fri.-Sat. 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Sun. 10a.m.-5 p.m.

Now that spring has officially sprung in Baltimore, people are focusing more on ways to “green” their lives. We’ve seen locals honing in on one such topic—increased plant-based consumption. Over the past few years, we’ve seen a rise in vegan and vegetarian menu items popping up across city and region. From Maryland Vegan Restaurant Week to Baltimore Vegan Drinks happy hours, diners are embracing plant-based meals and restaurants are working to provide better options.

According to a 2018 study, avoiding meat and dairy products could be one of the most impactful ways to reduce your environmental impact. Earlier this year, Maryland-based grocery chain Giant Food created a podcast called “Nutrition Made Easy” which highlights dietitians, nutritionists and other experts to help answer customer questions and provide useful tips for a healthy lifestyle. In its most recent episode, Elizabeth Dahl, a professor of chemistry at Loyola University Maryland and the founder of the Baltimore Environmental Film Series, discusses ways we can make sustainable food choices, such as plant-based eating.

“When we think about nature, because it’s a circular system, it has no useless byproducts,” says Dahl. “It’s really important that when we’re thinking about how we’re interacting with the environment that we’re thinking about how we can better interact in a way that’s going to keep nature circular . . . When you eat lower on the food chain, it’s better for the environment.”

And it’s not just in Baltimore. Over the past 10 years, there have been impressive increases in Google searches for “plant-based diet.” According to online food delivery marketplace GrubHub, plant-based foods were the greatest rising trend in 2018 for their 16 million users. The platform’s data revealed that red meat was completely missing from their top 10 ordered foods (which was led by bean burritos). GrubHub also saw a rise in plant-based breakfast items such as peanut butter acaí bowls (up 350 percent) and detox juices (up 193 percent).

Daniela Troia, executive chef and founder of local hotspots Zia’s Cafe and Plantbar, credits the rise in plant-based eating to social media. “Wellness is the new black,” she says. “More people are taking an interest in knowing where their food comes from and how it’s produced. We have more accessible information, including more health-based books, informative podcasts and inspiring Instagram accounts.” The internet has made it incredibly easy to spread information, taking plants from a trend on the fringe to a mainstream movement. Most users cannot open Instagram without seeing the latest green juice or acaí bowl—or encouragement from queen Bey.

But don’t dismiss this movement as a ploy to look cool for followers. People are also becoming more aware of the health benefits and impacts of eating more fruits and vegetables. Famous athletes are giving plants a new face, sharing how their all-natural diets and non-processed choices affect their performance and recovery. Famed NFL quarterback Tom Brady, global tennis pro Venus Williams, and NBA All-Star Kyrie Irving have all become well-known for their plant-based diets. “I have more endurance and I’ve noticed that I can recover faster,” says local vegan runner Kelsey Johnston. “I’m way more mindful of what I eat for fuel.”

In 2018, Neilsen reported that plant-based foods sales grew by 20 percent in just 52 weeks, naming nondairy milk as the largest growing category. Locally, there has certainly been a rise in non-dairy milks, which in turn means you can get your plant fix at places like and Bmore Licks, which now offers vegan and non-dairy ice cream flavors. Restauranteurs are getting better at subtly adding the plants, without hiding the benefits. Troia says, at Plantbar, the X Factor smoothie is their top ordered item, which tastes overwhelmingly like almond butter and cacao and is actually formulated for performance with avocado, medicinal mushrooms, and monk fruit.

“I honestly think Baltimore is one of the best cities to be vegan,” Johnston says. “Baltimore Drinks was a pioneering force for the network, but so many neighborhoods are now veg-friendly—almost all of Hampden is. Harmony Bakery, Golden West, Paulie Gee’s, Holy Frijoles, and even Blue Pit BBQ all have options for me.”

We’ve seen openings of multiple plant-based dining spots across the region—and expecting even more in 2019. Plantbar just opened a third location in Brewers Hill, Pure Raw Juice is opening two new locations in the Rotunda and Locust Point and Plant Food + Wine will open this summer downtown.

More and more, people who identify as vegan, vegetarian, or none of the above are choosing to incorporate plant-based meals into their diets. Whether to accommodate special dietary requirements, address health conditions or just eat smarter, the movement is growing and Baltimore is responding.

Time was, the dining-out options for vegetarians were pretty bleak, with steamed rabbit food, tasteless tempeh and tofu, and blah, uninspired salads sprinkled with wheat germ as practically the only options. But these days, it’s never been easier to follow a plant-based diet that would make even author Michael Pollan (who famously wrote, “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.”) proud. As veggie-centric meals move more into the mainstream, the options—from sushi rolls to noodle bowls to quiches and tarts—are better than ever in Baltimore, whether a spot is 100 percent vegetarian, vegan, or just vegetable-welcoming.

“Maryland is known for having amazing seafood,” says Stall 11 co-owner Melanie Molinaro, “but what people don’t know is that we also have great produce farms. Restaurants seem to be putting in the effort these days.” “There’s nothing worse than going out to eat with a bunch of friends when you’re a vegetarian and everyone can eat but you,” she continues. “What happens when you take away the protein from a plate? You can’t just have mashed potatoes and green beans. Restaurants are getting way more creative about making it more of a meal.” What follows are our picks for the best vegetarian restaurants and offerings in town.

The Big Bean T.H.E.O.R.Y
At the Big Bean T.H.E.O.R.Y, owner Eula McDowell takes a plant-lover’s approach to satisfying soul food. As the name implies, protein-packed beans play a starring role in vegan burgers (black beans, lentils, and falafel), house-made stews, and even luscious, legume-based desserts. Veg Out: The soups taste like they’re straight out of your grandmother’s kitchen. Start with the gumbo—a spicy-smoky medley of lentils, okra, tomato, and corn—and end with the Mean Jean Bean Burger, bursting with beets, swiped with special sauce, and served on a pumpernickel roll. Table Tip: Grab a high-top at the window and watch the street go by. Mount Vernon Marketplace, 520 Park Ave., 443-955-1186

Encantada
Almost half the menu is vegetarian/vegan at this fanciful spot inside the American Visionary Art Museum. And while there are plenty of non-veg options here, should your carnivore companions decide to join you on your veg journey, we promise they’ll never miss the meat. For instance, it’s hard to call it anything but kitchen alchemy when presented with the deviled turnips—the root vegetable is hollowed out and filled with puréed chickpeas mixed with smoked paprika. (In a blind taste test, you’ll swear you’re eating an actual deviled egg.) Similarly magical is the portabello mushroom with fontina on a brioche bun. And no matter what else is happening in your life, say yes to every single sweet potato waffle fry on your plate. Veg Out: The Nashville cauliflower tossed in a spicy hot sauce looks like Buffalo wings but boasts its own flavor profile. We fought over the very last florets. Table Tip: Order a few shots of apple-beet and carrot-ginger juices while sitting outside and toasting to Vollis Simpson’s whirligig. 800 Key Hwy., 410-752-1000

The Flying Avocado Cafe

While The Flying Avocado sounds like something out of a futuristic farming flick, it is, in fact, an adorable sandwich shop that’s both vegan and vegetarian friendly. Avocados find their way into many of the menu items, including the powerhouse wrap, black bean burger, and avocado-and-tofu wrap, though we also love the colorful raw rainbow salad with field greens, mandarin oranges, honey-coated walnuts, cranberries, and flaxseed, as well as vegetarian nachos topped with vegan chili. Veg Out: Put some South in your mouth with the Southwestern wedge salad garnished with house-made pico de gallo. Table Tip: Visit the adjoining homeopathic pharmacy for some unique finds. 10210 S. Dolfield Road, Owings Mills, 443-471-2600

Great Sage
Open since 2004, this wholly vegan HoCo staple opened long before the vegan/vegetarian/gluten-free trifecta became buzzwords in Baltimore. Great Sage is proof positive that following a vegetable-driven diet doesn’t have to be limiting. Start with an organic spirit or glass of wine and a bowl of artichoke-spinach dip, then move onto any number of sustainable salads (we heart the couscous, featuring chickpeas, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, pumpkin seeds, and a knockout pomegranate dressing) and the beet poké entrée tossed in ponzu sauce served with coconut rice. There are plenty of other options, too, such as a hearts of palm “crab cake” sandwich topped with caper-scallion rémoulade. Veg Out: The Tres Leches cake (made with soy, cashew, and coconut milk) is a highlight. Table Tip: A new coffee bar features house-made pastries, gluten-free bowls of oatmeal, smoothies, and even a tofu and aioli breakfast sandwich. 5809 Clarksville Square Dr., Clarksville, 443-535-9400

The Grub Factory

Not many spots could pull off a vegan cheese steak, but the “cheezsteak” creation (house-made seitan sauteed with peppers, onions, and a soy-free, Cheese Whiz-like sauce on a Stone Mill hoagie roll) at The Grub Factory could stand up to the real-deal big boys in the City of Brotherly Love. Other offerings include breakfast options such as rice flour pancakes with a tofu scramble side that mimics the consistency and taste of scrambled eggs. Veg Out: Don’t miss the vegan “bacon,” aka smoked coconut chips flavored to taste like the real thing. Table Tip: Pick a seat next to one of the many murals celebrating African heritage. 1210 N. Charles St., 443-602-7018

Harmony Bakery

Maybe it’s the preponderance of hearts used as motif in this vegan/vegetarian Hampden cafe, but the love truly leaps off every plate. Yes, there’s plenty of sweet stuff (lemon doughnuts, bliss balls) to sate those cravings, but we gravitate toward the savory house-made quiches, samosas, and tarts. Word of warning: The mouthwatering display case makes deciding difficult. Veg Out: The chickpea tart filled with caramelized onions and served with a side of coconut cilantro chutney really rates. Table Tip: This compact cafe fills up quickly at lunchtime. If need be, get your order to go. The friendly staff will happily provide the proper heating instructions. 3446 Chestnut Ave., 410-235-3870

Helmand Kabobi

This Afghani restaurant is a casual spinoff of the beloved Mount Vernon mainstay, The Helmand. With its mod stenciled walls, high warehouse-style ceilings, and concrete floors, the ambiance has been updated, but the menu is filled with many of the same vegetarian favorites you can find at the flagship restaurant, including the signature Kaddo Borani—baked baby pumpkin seasoned with sugar and drizzled with garlic yogurt sauce. Bowls also beckon such as a fragrant, almost stew-like option made with cauliflower and chickpeas and nestled on a bed of challow rice. Veg Out: Don’t miss the Bowlawni appetizer—two turnovers, one filled with leeks, and the other with potatoes. Table Tip: We’ll admit to fibbing that it was the birthday of a guest at our table just to see what would ensue. As we blew out the candle on a gratis piece of chocolate-hazelnut cake, we wished that the Veggie Gods would lead us back here sometime soon. 855 N. Wolfe St., 410-327-2230

The Land of Kush

When you think of soul food, you don’t often conjure up words like “vegan” or “vegetarian,” let alone “healthy.” But The Land of Kush takes those delicious homegrown flavors and gives them a green spin. Let’s be clear: At this Seton Hill eatery, all the food, from curry “chicken” to “crab cakes,” is 100 percent vegan. But don’t let that fool you—burgers, made with lentils, and the eggplant Parmesan, topped with vegan cheese, are as belly-filling as the real deal. Veg out: Fittingly, we dug into a bowl of barbecue “ribs,” made with marinated soy protein in savory sautéed peppers, carrots, and onions. For a comfort food combo platter, we added smoked collard greens and whole-wheat mac-and-“cheese.” Table Tip: Wash it all down with smoothies and fruit-and-vegetable juices. 840 N. Eutaw St., 410-225-5874

Liquid Earth

A funky ambiance and deeply delicious food have made this Fells Point hideaway a vegan, raw, and vegetarian staple for more than 20 years. While the neighborhood has evolved, owners Mike and Antonette Lippy have been able to sustain all comers with flavorful, wholesome foods and drinks derived from the freshest, largely organic local ingredients. Tofu stars in all its variations, whether marinated and thinly sliced (the loaded Filly Cheese Fake), or diced with veggies and Nayonaise (the creamy Tofu Salad sandwich). Greens also shine in sandwiches, salads, and raw items, while fruits and vegetables collaborate—sometimes with spirulina and bee pollen—in creative juices and smoothies. Veg Out: The Not Ham Sandwich, with raw red onion and spunky horseradish mayonnaise, is an ideal lunch. Table Tip: Don’t skip Antonette’s vegan oatmeal chocolate chip cookie. 1626 Aliceanna St., 410-276-6606

Mango Grove

With one of the lowest meat-consuming populations in the world, India’s cuisine has long been known for its culinary focus on vegetables. Vegans and vegetarians alike will delight in the offerings at this South Asian oasis. The fare, including thalis, oothappams, and shorbas, is authentic, aromatic, and thanks to the absence of animal fat, a lot lighter than your typical strip-mall Indian-food greasy spoon. Veg Out: Zero in on the dosai section of the menu. A dosai is a jumbo (we’re talking nearly 2-feet long) rice and white lentil crepe. Table Tip: The all-you-can-eat lunch buffet is a steal at $12.95. 8865 Stanford Blvd., Columbia, 410-884-3426

Naked Lunch

As one might expect, the lunch spot at MOM’s Organic Market in Hampden takes its vegetarian and vegan food quite seriously. The fully organic grocery store touts a small corner cafe with healthy meals that, while not scientifically proven, could add years to your life. Brown rice bowls packed with tofu and seaweed and glistening with gluten-free dressings abound, but also try the cauliflower steak, marinated in lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, and dill, or the black-bean burger, a fiber-packed patty of black beans and sweet potato smeared with guacamole on a spelt bun. Everything is served in biodegradable to-go containers (duh), and if you’re extra ecologically minded, the grocer even offers reserved parking for patrons driving fuel-efficient cars. Veg Out: The Pink Lady juice is an invigorating elixir of apple, orange, beet, lemon, and lime juices featuring the funky fizz of kombucha. Table Tip: Browse the grocery store’s luxurious organic goods and start planning your next meal. 711 W. 40th St., 667-219-2500

On the Hill Cafe
This sweet and sunny spot sits in the shadow of the Maryland Institute College of Art, so it’s not surprising to find a menu that’s heavy on colorful and creative vegan and vegetarian gems, from seasonal summer rolls to a bowl of rice, beans, and crispy plantains to a chipotle black bean rice burger with corn. Veg Out: We can’t stop oohing and ahing over the house-made tamale cakes. Served in a stack, these corn creations cavort with pico de gallo, guacamole, Monterey Jack cheese, and sour cream. One bite and you’ll start planning your return visit. Table Tip: Bring extra spending money for a work on the walls by fledgling MICA artists. 1431 John St., 410-225-9667

Paulie Gee’s
A pizza pilgrimage can be tough when you’re vegan, especially given that dairy, i.e. cheese, is a central ingredient. And while there are plenty of places with vegetarian pizza, few have this variety of vegan pizzas. This Hampden slice joint has dedicated half of its menu to vegan pies. Here, slices of perfection—topped with house-made cashew ricotta, vegan sausage, and vegan marinara—add up to way more than the sum of their parts. The Russell Bell, made with smoked vegan mozzarella, lemon slices, basil, and olive oil, is a good start. Veg Out: Pizza is the main event, but start with a salad. We enjoyed the cleverly called Grape to Meetcha—arugula with grape tomatoes, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and a quick coating of lemon vinaigrette. Table Tip: If you’re more of the to-go type, consider take out, available only Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday. 3535 Chestnut Ave., 410-889-1048

Red Emma’s

Anything goes at this bookstore-cafe, from the staff and the clientele (an eclectic mix of JHU film hipsters and MICA students) to the selection of books (Karl Marx’s Communist Manifesto) to a menu on which vegan pastas (mushroom ravioli in herb butter) keep company with spanakopita, a kick-ass báhn mì, and colorful salads. Most menu items can be made vegan. Veg Out: Don’t miss the rotating selection of irresistible Hvmble vegan doughnuts on display behind the glass. Table Tip: Pay it forward with a prepaid cup of soup ($3.50) and a cup of coffee ($1) for someone in need. 30 W. North Ave., 443-602-7585

Spice & Dice

Set aside your concerns when you see grilled pork and chicken on the menu here. We promise you’ll find plenty of V’s (vegetarian) and v’s (vegan) on the lineup at this BYOB spot, where veggie versions of almost every dish can be made. With head chef-owner and Thai native Lawan Fuangphon in the kitchen, expect Siam staples such as eggplant with basil sauce, masaman curry, tofu with peanut sauce, and giant bowls of Tom Yum noodle soup. Veg Out: The crispy eggplant salad has just the right kick without starting a three-alarm fire on your palate. Table Tip: Enjoy live jazz on Thursday nights. 1220 E. Joppa Road, Towson, 410-494-8777

Stall 11

Don’t be fooled by this simple stall in Remington’s R. House. Behind the micro succulents, chef Melanie Molinaro takes an artistic approach to vegan and vegetarian cuisine, focusing on colorful local ingredients. Teaming up with the Urban Pastoral city farm, her creations are outright beautiful, be they smoothies (the radiant Raven, packed with beets, bananas, and a hint of orange) or starches (the Kyoto Bowl with udon noodles, broccoli, ginger sauce, and avocado). The well-lit spot also carries a cold case of salty and sweet treats like vegetarian chili-and-rice and chia seed pudding for herbivores on the go. Veg Out: Sure, it’s not Geno’s or Jim’s, but the Funghi Philly, filled with mushrooms, peppers, caramelized onions, and faux Cheese Whiz, fashioned from creamy cashews, is a fun take on a Philadelphia cheese steak. It might sound sacrilegious, but it’s surprisingly tasty. Table Tip: In season, nab a spot outside in the sun. 301 W. 29th St., 443-681-1911

Sticky Rice

This hole-in-the-wall, Asian-inspired hipster haven features an impressive array of novelty sushi, noodle bowls, soups, and starters, so whether you’re vegetarian, vegan, or gluten-free, there’s no need to miss out as your friends consume Crazy Calamari or Spicy Salmon Rolls. Mock chicken, tofu, sweet potato, umeboshi (pickled plum), oshinko (pickled radish), and innovative sauces (such as one with sambal and agave jalapeño) populate the menu. Veg Out: Go for the Garden Balls, aka great gobs of spicy rice and red pepper stuffed inside a tempura fried tofu pocket. Even vegans have their guilty pleasures. Table Tip: Hang out until the bar closes at 2 a.m. for some karaoke to go with your teriyaki tofu bites. 1634 Aliceanna St., 443-682-8243

Sweet 27

With its funky décor and accent lights, this Remington standby is known for its eclectic multi-cultural cuisine. As you dig into riffs on Asian (General Tso tofu, stir fry quinoa), Latin (black bean mole enchiladas), and Indian cuisines (see below), let your taste buds travel the globe. Regardless of origin, every dish is entirely gluten-free. Veg Out: We couldn’t resist the “Indian tostadas,” a Tex Mex-meets-Mumbai mix of chickpeas, potatoes, onions, tamarind, and mint atop crispy corn tortillas. Table Tip: Sit in the upper-level dining room and admire the mural that features an epic dinner party including Edgar Allan Poe, Thurgood Marshall, and John Waters. 123 W. 27th St., 410-464-7211

If the term “museum restaurant” conjures up images of cafeteria trays and tired salad bars, let go of what you know. From The Modern—Danny Meyer’s Bauhaus restaurant inside the Museum of Modern Art—to restaurateur Ralph Brennan’s quick bites bistro Café NOMA inside the New Orleans Museum of Art, a new day is dawning at cultural institutions across the country. With the opening of Encantada, set inside the American Visionary Art Museum (AVAM), restaurateur Robbin Haas is hoping to make his mark.

Like the visionary artists whose works are displayed in the museum, Haas, who also owns Birroteca and The Nickel Taphouse, has a unique vision, a veggie-themed fantasy that taps into the trend of vegetables as the new meat. (Close your eyes and you’ll find that the fried cauliflower dabbed in house-made buffalo sauce is as satisfying as any piece of protein.) And while the theme of Encantada, which means “enchanted” in Spanish, highlights locally sourced, plant-centric plates, the menu, designed by former Birroteca executive chef Melanie Molinaro, is not strictly vegetarian or vegan. Also, know before you go that dishes come and go with the seasons.

On our first visit, a gorgeous September evening, my companions and I were seated on the terrace with its spectacular views of Federal Hill and Vollis Simpson’s gargantuan whirligig seemingly within arm’s reach. The entire space, which includes a 64-seat dining room with church-pew seating evokes a Tim Burton set piece with its fanciful Suzani fabrics and works by visionary artists such as Deepak Chowdhury and Mary Proctor on the walls. The space is the artful expression of Haas and AVAM founder Rebecca Hoffberger,
who closely collaborated on the design. And while the interior is extraordinary, the kitchen still has some kinks.

The entire space evokes a Tim Burton set piece with church-pew seating and fanciful fabrics.

As we moved into our meal, we sampled an array of small plates, including fried chickpeas seasoned with house-made barbecue sauce (a crispy and light play on barbecued chips), house-made honey wheat bread with fig jam (sadly not much better than what comes out of my own bread machine), and a dish of “deviled” turnips with puréed chickpeas and tofu as a stand-in for eggs.

While I appreciated that this dish dared to be different, and the stuffed turnip successfully mimicked a deviled egg in looks and taste, the texture was a bit crunchy, and I found myself craving the real deal. Still, vegans will likely find this non-dairy option an appealing alternative. More noteworthy noshes included a creamy house-made burrata paired with grilled peaches and English peas and an heirloom tomato salad brightened by black garlic purée and a sprinkle of sea salt. The tomatoes were flecked with olive-oil powder—olive oil mixed with maltodextrin—which is meant to deliver a concentrated flavor as it melts in the mouth. I found it more distracting than delicious.

While veggies are the focus, there are several offerings that include small pieces of protein, and this is where the menu really shone. High praise goes to a postmodern-looking plate of wagyu accompanied by beets prepared three ways (roasted, pureed, powdered). Although the veggies—including a divine demi-glaze fashioned from puréed beets, black garlic, thyme, and shallots—were central to the plate, the accompanying meat was ultra tender, and we loved the addition of horseradish cream, which delivered depth and a hint of heat. Also on the plate were flash-fried Brussels sprouts, which echoed the sweetness of the beets. With the arrival of every dish, as carefully curated as a work of art, the wow factor was high, and each plate earned an A-plus for originality, including desserts. (Behold the Goose that Laid the Golden Egg, a cross between chocolate pudding and gananche with a blanket of edible gold leaf.)

A week later, a lunchtime visit was more seamless. The daytime menu features some dinner dishes, but also fare unique to the midday meal. We appreciated the inclusion of a Roseda beef burger for the carnivore at the table and forged ahead with a tasty, though overdressed, panzenella salad. But the real menu masterpiece was a heavenly bowl of bacon and lemongrass dashi with ramen noodles, crispy pork belly, and a soft-boiled egg that convinced me that this newcomer needs time to grow. The broth and springy miso-infused noodles imparted a riot of umami, and the tender pork belly, slow-cooked over seven hours, was smoky and deeply flavorful. Days later, we were still reminiscing.

As every artist knows—including AVAM’s Wayne Kusy, who took years to build a 25-foot ship out of toothpicks—inspiration takes time. Haas certainly has his work cut out for him. To date, no other restaurants, including Spike and Charlie Gjerde’s Joy America Café, have succeeded in the space. Even so, we’re rooting for Encantada. As the restaurant continues to work its charms, we’re eager to see what happens next.

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ENCANTADA 800 Key Highway, 410-752-1000.
HOURS Wed.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.
PRICES Starters: $5-14; entrees: $11-21; desserts: $6-9.
ATMOSPHERE Artsy.

These days, there are sweet options for most people dealing with dietary and medical restrictions. “I’ve seen people literally dance when they learn they can have a vegan cupcake,” says Mark Zlatich, manager of Sweet 27. The Remington cafe and bakery is happy to fill a need by specializing in gluten-free goodies and vegan treats.

The bakery/restaurant comes by its mission honestly. Renee D’Souza, who co-owns Sweet 27 with her husband Richard, discovered she had celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder triggered by gluten, not long after she got a pastry degree from culinary school. “It was a shock,” she says.

“I realized that even working around flour, breathing it in, was damaging to the system.”

She and her husband, also a chef, then began experimenting with gluten-free baked goods at home, developing combinations of potato, almond, and coconut flours mixed with tapioca and Xanthan gum. The couple decided to open the bakery in 2005, followed by the restaurant in 2010.

While an estimated one in 100 people have celiac disease worldwide, many people are turning to gluten-free diets for myriad reasons, including gastrointestinal issues, allergies, and a desire to avoid genetically modified foods. “People are constantly learning about what foods are best for them,” says Katie Smallwood, a manager at Great Sage, which went vegan in 2010 when the owners embraced a diet free of animal products. The Clarksville restaurant also has a range of gluten-free options and dabbles in raw foods.  

Even mainstream restaurants cater to those who eschew wheat flour. B&O American Brasserie has a gluten-free bête noir, for instance, while the Rusty Scupper offers a gluten-free molten “chocolate indulgence” cake on its menu.

But, as Allison Parker-Abromitis, a spokeswoman for the Foreman Wolf restaurant group, points out, “There’s always sorbet.”