After working as the general manager and beverage director at Hampden’s True Chesapeake Oyster Co. since October, Chelsea Gregoire has decided that it’s time to move on.

Gregoire will devote herself full time to her restaurant consulting company, Drinkable Genius.

“I’ve been in this industry a long time,” says Gregoire, who is currently studying for her sommelier certification. “It’s not a massive surprise to anyone that restaurants are really struggling, and the whole business model is really difficult, especially when people cannot gather together. When I started to feel like there was a possibility we might be coming back to work soon, I had to stop and reflect on what my role will be in this new landscape and what that meant for my team.”

It was a decision she made for the greater good. “I knew that if I was able to stay on and take a salary when not everyone was going to be able to come back to work, it wouldn’t sit well with me, especially when I have my own business,” she says. “I’ve bounced back before and I have the ability to do that, so I was in the best position to make that sacrifice and say, ‘You know what? Don’t pay me a salary. Let me make this decision for the good of everyone. You don’t need a general manager for 10 tables and then 20 tables,’” she adds, referring to the reduced capacity for in-person dining.

Gregoire started her wryly named Drinkable Genius in 2016, and went on to help open Ida B’s Table and True Chesapeake Oyster Co., as well as a revamp the cocktail menu for Market Tavern in Sykesville. The modest Gregoire, who was named Esquire magazine’s Beverage Director of the Year in 2019, doesn’t want anyone to think that she’s calling herself a genius with the name of her company.

“The name rolled off the tongue one day,” she says. “And I had to step back and say, ‘Does that make me sound like a jerk?’ Anyone who knows me knows that I don’t think of myself that way, but rather I like to say that I create drinkable works of genius, something exciting and innovative that you can either drink in a cocktail glass or take in through an experience. That’s how the name plays out.”

She has also worked for a number of spirit brands and collaborated on events centered on community building.

“I’ve helped a variety of different restaurants and concepts open for the first time or just provided some guidance in making changes and fine-tuning things,” Gregoire says. “I think people seek me out because of my approach to hospitality. I try to come in and help with all of the math and the costs, as well. Right now, business owners need the ability to step back and figure out how they can save money and earn more money despite the climate. I’m not expecting a ton of response, but I’m hoping that if there’s someone out there who needs a hand and some fresh ideas, they give me a call.”

Gregoire, who earned a master’s degree in theology, found her True North from behind the bar. “A bar creates this wonderful atmosphere of great energy and great community,” says the Baltimore-born, Annapolis-raised hospitality veteran. “Making cocktails and learning about wine and spirits and beer scratches that creative itch and being behind the bar scratches that community itch for me—I just fell in love.”

On Sunday night, Gregoire worked her last shift at True Chesapeake, a project that was years in the making.

“It was bittersweet,” she says. “It always is. You work really hard on a project and get really close to the ownership team and your staff that you curated and brought together. But when it’s time to go, it’s time to go. I feel like we had a great last few days. ‘The kids’ threw me a little get together on Saturday night. Ten of us got together and sat around talked about our memories. On my last night chef [Zack Mills] and I had a glass of Champagne together. It was just really good send off.”

Then again, Gregoire, who lives in Whitehall Mill on the grounds of the restaurant, isn’t straying very far. “I know we will stay in touch,” she says.

Dana Sicko is no stranger to the concept of a communal market. As the CEO of Gundalow Juice, she sold her black-labeled bottles at local events and farmers’ markets for nearly five years. But after deciding to stop production to focus on her catering service, Gundalow Gourmet, last year, she says she’s missed the feeling of being surrounded by other small businesses.

“I love to be a part of a team,” she says. “I always prefer to be around people who I can learn from and bounce ideas off of.”

Naturally, Sicko jumped at the chance to set up shop alongside seven other local vendors at Whitehall Food Market in Hampden. Though the communal spot on the Jones Falls—part of the mixed-use redevelopment of the historic mill that also houses True Chesapeake Oyster Co.—isn’t slated to officially debut until after the New Year, its vendors are coming together to host four consecutive weekend pop-ups, where visitors can shop for food and gifts throughout the holidays.

Beginning Saturday, November 30 and continuing weekends until Sunday, December 22, the event, dubbed “Holiday by the Falls,” will take over the former Charm Kitty Cafe space in the green building adjacent to the actual market. Organizers are working with local designer Nicole Figliola to transform the space into a full-blown winter wonderland decorated with festive greenery, bows, and paper Christmas trees.

“The holidays are often so crazy and get so far from what they should be,” Sicko says. “Our whole mission is about simplifying life in a delicious way. So we’re really excited to be able to say, ‘You don’t have to worry about making your dip, because we have it all ready for you.’ We just want to give people that time back to do whatever they want with their holidays.”

Aside from Gundalow’s famous bourbon caramelized onion dip and Croque Monsieur breakfast casserole, the one-stop shop will feature artisanal cheeses, raw honeys, and domestic cured meats from Firefly Farms; hand pies, Old Bay chocolate chip cookies, and other sweet treats from Crust by Mack; and an array of teas from Wight Tea Co. On select weekends, there will also be Filipino fare from chef Rey Eugenio of Heritage and winter warmers from Ceremony Coffee.

All of the holiday items are meant to serve as a sneak peek of what the vendors will offer once they begin selling at Whitehall full time.

“Every single thing we will be selling at the holiday market is something that we are passionate about,” says Jesse Galdston, general manager and director of retail operations for Firefly Farms, which is based in Garrett County. “And there is an energy and excitement that you get when you see other people who are just as passionate about food as you are.”

While the food-focused spots will be offering standout dishes to bring to a potluck or highlight on a holiday table, ceramicist Annie Parker will feature a selection of local gifts at her stall, Homebody General Store. Alongside some of her own pieces, Parker will sell graphic tees, throw blankets, skincare products, jewelry, smaller stocking stuffers such as playing cards and face masks, and vases by local artist Tim McFadden of McFadden Art Glass on Eastern Avenue.

“Shopping small, especially for gift items around the holidays, is always more special,” Parker says. “Just the fact that someone was at this cool little shop that they found themselves and saw this item and thought of you. It’s just more special than going to a mall and getting a gift card or something like that.”

A lineup of activities planned throughout the pop-up includes a citrus-garland making class with Parker and Figliola—who both hail from Anthropologie—on November 30, a coffee tasting with Ceremony on December 7, and a cheese tutorial with the team from Firefly on December 14.

Collectively, the vendors are looking forward to introducing themselves to visitors, who they hope to see at the market on a regular basis once it opens. They’re also excited to work alongside one another for the first time and have the opportunity to refer shoppers to each other’s businesses.

After all, it’s certainly no coincidence that the inaugural Holiday by the Falls pop-up is scheduled for Small Business Saturday.

“We might not be the cheapest, but you’re getting our passion,” Sicko says of Baltimore’s small-business community. “You are getting the hardest working hours of our life, because this is what we’ve decided to pursue. We’re always stronger together.”

COMING SOON

Crust by Mack: Chef Amanda Mack’s beloved baked goods have been added to the lineup of local eats that will be offered inside Hampden’s Whitehall Food Market when it opens later this year. After nearly two years of focusing solely on pop-ups and deliveries, Mack will set up shop inside the communal space to serve her sweet-and-savory hand pies (think everything from cherry almond to the “Bmore Crust” filled with jumbo lump crab meat), as well as cinnamon rolls and a Baltimore-inspired chocolate chip cookie made with brown butter and Old Bay. “It’s so Baltimore, but then it’s also that classic chocolate chip cookie that everybody dreams of,” she says, also mentioning brunch pastries that will be paired with Champagne and bellinis. In keeping with Mack’s social justice philosophy, she is looking forward to hosting community gatherings and speaker series in the market’s designated events space. “It’s the perfect location,” she says. “I’m excited to be around other like-minded people and collaborate with some of my favorite brands.”

THB Neighborhood Bagelry + Deli: Since opening its flagship in Towson 20 years ago, THB has expanded into three other neighborhoods and served more than 52 million bagels to the Baltimore community at large. To celebrate its big birthday, the deli is widening its footprint yet again—this time to Howard County. A fifth shop at Columbia Crossing is slated to open this winter, highlighting THB’s signature breakfast sandwiches, wraps, salads, and paninis.

OPEN

Pizza di Joey: The footlong “monster” slices from this roving pizza truck have finally found a permanent home inside Cross Street Market. Owner Joey Vanoni debuted a brick-and-mortar stall inside the renovated market last weekend, just in time for the Ravens home opener. Stop by the stall—or the attached take-out window that is open until 12 a.m. on Saturdays for revelers in Federal Hill—for wood-fired slices topped with everything from pepperoni and mozzarella to barbecue chicken and lump crab. Pizza di Joey joins newly opened spots Rice Crook, Annoula’s Kitchen, and Gangster Vegan in the revitalized property, which is expected to be fully leased by spring 2020.

NEWS

Le Comptoir du Vin Ranked Best in the Country by Bon Appetit: The fastidious food editors at Bon Appetit magazine narrowed their list of the 50 Best New Restaurants in the country down to 10 this week, and local diners were ecstatic to see that beloved French bistro Le Comptoir du Vin made the cut. Coming in at No. 8 on the list of the top newcomers in America, the Station North spot was praised for its chicken liver pâté, hand-cut steak tartare, and fresh-baked breads.

“The food is not even really what Le Comptoir is about,” writes editor Julia Kramer. “It’s about having a place where you feel immediately welcomed…a place where you just wanna hang out, as golden hour fades, hoping the night never ends.” We couldn’t agree more. In response to the award, co-owners Will Mester and Rosemary Liss took to Instagram to thank their team, Bon Appetit, and the city as a whole: “We love this city and are so proud to be here,” reads the post. “Thank you Baltimore for your love and support.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/20-22: Mount Vernon Marketplace Turns 4
In the four years since Mount Vernon Marketplace debuted on Park Avenue, we’ve seen OG vendors like The Local Oyster, Cultured, Pinch Dumplings, and Taps Filling Station cement their place in the local dining landscape. And, along the way, the market has welcomed exciting new concepts like Indibowl, Mr. Souvlaki, and Fishnet. In celebration of the food hall’s four-year anniversary this weekend, all of the stalls will be running individual specials. Be on the lookout for $5 milkshakes and orders of fries at Between 2 Buns, $5 rice bowls and $10 soju bottles at Brown Rice, and a “Five Buck Birthday Cup”—which tops a sweet cream base with Oreos and birthday sprinkles—at Roll Bmore.

9/23: Farm to Chef Maryland
In honor of its 10th anniversary, this culinary competition benefitting local nonprofit TasteWise Kids is back and bigger than ever. Nearly 30 chefs—including Stefano Porcile of Orto, Jesse Sandlin of The Outpost American Tavern, Mark Levy of Magdalena, Doug Wetzel of Gertrude’s, and David Thomas of Ida B’s Table—will be paired with a local farm and tasked with creating a dish that showcases Baltimore’s bounty of homegrown produce. Plus, cocktail connoisseurs from the Baltimore Bartenders’ Guild will also use herbs and other ingredients from the featured farms to mix up signature beverages. Attendees will vote for their favorite eats and drinks of the night, and a portion of all proceeds will support the nonprofit’s efforts to educate kids about the origins of their food.

SHUT

The Haute Dog Carte: The Mt. Washington scene lost this old standby earlier this month. Chef Daniel Raffel took to Facebook to announce that he would be shutting down his hot dog cart—stationed in a converted garage next to Bonjour Bakery on Falls Road—indefinitely. “I am humbled by the kindness, support and love from all who joined me on this fun adventure,” he wrote. “I will sign off until there is something to report.” Some of the offerings that became favorites among lunchtime regulars included the spicy Italian dog topped with onion jam and the smoked country sausage with whole grain mustard. Here’s hoping the fabulous franks stuffed inside flaky baguettes will make a comeback sometime soon.

COMING SOON

Whitehall Food Market: It’s been several years since we first heard murmurs of a food hall taking shape inside Whitehall Mill—the historic property located along the Jones Falls in Hampden. Now, the lineup of Maryland producers moving in to the revamped space has officially been finalized. In addition to True Chesapeake Oyster House—an anchor restaurant from the brains behind The Local Oyster and True Chesapeake Oyster Co.—the culinary offerings will include java from Ceremony Coffee, cheese and charcuterie from Deep Creek Lake’s FireFly Farms, small-batch blends from Wight Tea Company, prepared meals from Gundalow Gourmet, and European pastries from Roggenart. In addition, look for authentic eats from Heritage, a new concept from former Ouzo Bay chef Rey Eugenio—who also operates the popular Masarap Filipino pop-up. Developers with Terra Nova Ventures are preparing for a late-fall grand opening.

Miss Shirley’s: Get ready to see some familiar food-and-drink logos while strolling through BWI this summer vacation season. Frederick’s Flying Dog Taphouse has become a favorite since it opened inside the airport two years ago, and recently, Nalley Fresh joined the pack with a salad stall inside the food court on Concourse A. The local restaurant presence will continue to expand in 2020, when Baltimore breakfast behemoth Miss Shirley’s is expected to open a 100-seat restaurant inside the global gateway. To accommodate travelers at any hour, the spot will offer dinner and late-night options, as well as its signature pancakes and Southern-style breakfast dishes.

OPEN

Dee at Thai: Mt. Vernon locals were at a loss when Stang of Siam closed abruptly last December. A sign posted to the door informed regulars that a changeover was imminent, and now, a new Thai restaurant is back in its place on North Calvert Street. Dee at Thai opened earlier this month, offering a wholesome array of soups, curries, vegetarian options, and traditional pad Thai dishes. In keeping with the holistic mission, the menu also breaks down the health benefits of cooking with Thai herbs such as lemongrass and sweet basil, which have both been known to help strengthen the immune system.

NEWS

Heavy Seas Releases “Bmore Snoball Ale”: On the list of things synonymous with Charm City, egg custard snowballs rank pretty high. So it’s no wonder Halthorpe-based Heavy Seas’ Beer decided to create a new brew inspired by the iconic summer treat. At a 5.5 percent ABV, the Egg Custard Blonde Ale uses a malt base, Strisselspalt hops, and lots of vanilla to replicate the classic snowball flavor. It will be available in cans and on draft exclusively in the brewery’s taproom starting next Friday, July 26.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/20: SauceScape at North Avenue Market
Throughout Artscape weekend, there will be plenty of opportunities for diners to get a sneak peek of the proposed plans for North Avenue Market. The former home of Red Emma’s in Station North is expected to house multiple food concepts in the coming months. Among them will be Secret Sauce Co., the craft ketchup brand that served its burgers and fries at an extended pop-up inside Lost City Diner a few months back. This Saturday night, Secret Sauce Co. is taking over the space to launch its new hot sauce collaboration with Jones Falls Sauce Company. Stop by to sample the concoction, enjoy tacos from Cocina Luchadoras, play some classic arcade games, dance to live funk music, and—perhaps most importantly—take advantage of the free air conditioning.

7/20: Inaugural Highlandtown Crab Feast

The recent influx of Chesapeake Bay blue crabs calls for a new Charm City crab feast. Enjoy the summer tradition at this inaugural event benefiting the Highlandtown Community Association. Captain Frank’s Seafood will provide the crabs and savory sides, such as steamed corn, tomato and cucumber salad, and hush puppies. And Highlandtown’s own Monument City Brewing will be handing out cold cans to wash down all of the eats. Following dinner, partake in dessert, games, a 50/50 raffle, and a block party from 7-9 p.m.

SHUT

Atwater’s Falls Road: Early risers on the hunt for avocado toast on Falls Road will now have to venture to one of Atwater’s other nearby locations. After seven years, the cafe recently came to the end of its lease, and management decided not to renew. The neighborhood go-to became known for its piping-hot soups, irresistible baked goods, and hearty sandwiches. Luckily, Atwater’s locations in Belvedere Square, Canton, Catonsville, Towson, and Upper Fells Point are all still going strong.

Bar Liquorice: Riverside locals enjoyed the last of the Red Vines and Good & Plenty’s at this kitschy corner bar last week. After five years of slinging cocktails and refilling the popcorn bowls at Bar Liquorice, owner Jeff Cahill has decided to move on. “Owning a bar is a 24-7 labor of love that can really kick your ass,” he wrote in a message announcing the closure. “Although I have loved my 30-plus years in Baltimore, I have decided to join my family in a new venture that will free me up to actually enjoy my life.” There’s no word yet what will become of the Fort Avenue property.

Throughout Zack Mills’ five-year stint at Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore, he became known for participating in chef competitions, riding a bike across the state in support of Moveable Feast, and plating up countless crab cakes and other seafood specialties. But in June, he decided it was time to move on from the restaurant.

“No question, leaving Wit & Wisdom was very bittersweet,” Mills says. “Mainly because I was leaving my team and something that I saw grow for so many years. But when a new opportunity came about, it seemed like the right next move.”

Since his final night of service at Wit, Mills has teamed up with longtime friends Nick Schauman of The Local Oyster and Patrick Hudson of True Chesapeake Oyster Co. to begin a new project of their own. Early next year, the trio will debut True Chesapeake Oyster House in the historic Whitehall Mill development along the Jones Falls.

“This is something I’m really going to be able to sink my teeth into,” Mills says. “These guys have such great energy and knowledge of the industry as a whole. I’m excited to work side-by-side with them.”

A native of Davidsonville, Mills has always had a knack for preparing Chesapeake cuisine. He says that he is looking forward to continuing that passion at the new restaurant, which will focus on regional dishes such as rockfish, crab cakes, steamed shrimp, and, of course, loads of Chesapeake Bay oysters farmed by Hudson and his team in Southern Maryland.

“Oysters are one of my favorite things in the world, so the fact that the restaurant will have them at the forefront is something I’m very excited about,” he says. “You’re definitely going to see bits of what I’ve done in the past as far as plating, ideas, and trying to keep it light and whimsical. But we really want to showcase what Maryland is doing for us. That’s something that has always been near and dear to my heart.”

In fact, Mills says the team is hoping to keep the menu “as local as humanly possible,” mentioning that diners shouldn’t expect to see crab options in the middle of winter. That philosophy will also be reflected in the bar program, which will feature regional spirits and local drafts on tap.

Although his style of cooking won’t be changing much, Mills says that diners can expect to enjoy his dishes at a more approachable price point.

“We want to make sure we’re catering to everybody as far as what they want to spend on a meal,” he says. “The prices are going to range pretty significantly, so if you just want to come and have a quick bite and get a couple of oysters and appetizers, you can do that without breaking the bank. Or if you’re having a celebratory dinner, we’ll have a couple of higher-end items, too.”

The Americana-influenced restaurant will feature roughly 100 seats with a large bar and outdoor patio. Mills says that he is looking forward to executing a project of his own from scratch, but, most of all, he is excited to be doing it with Schauman and Hudson.

“We all have one common goal and that’s just to put out a great restaurant,” he says. “Something that is approachable to everybody, and something that’s kind of a party when you walk in. And there’s just an energy about the place. I couldn’t have asked for a better situation to move forward in my career.”