In the Baltimore area, independent ice cream shops flourish everywhere from Downtown to Reisterstown—and we’ve come a long way since basic chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry were our only options. These days, innovative flavors abound, from French poached pear at Cajou Creamery to red velvet cake at The Cow.

But our ice cream scene wouldn’t be what it is without Baltimore milkman Jacob Fussell, who often had a surplus of cream and decided to freeze his unsold product. In 1851, he opened America’s first commercial ice cream factory in Seven Valleys, PA, and, lucky for us, brought ice cream as we know it to the masses. No matter your preference—waffle or cake cone, rainbow or chocolate sprinkles, malted milk balls or crushed Utz chips—there’s something about this sweet treat that spikes serotonin.

“Ice cream puts you in a good mood,” says Kim Maloni, co-owner of Bmore Licks, which operates locations in Patterson Park and Federal Hill. “It’s something people often use to celebrate.”

To ring in the dog days of summer, we visited a few of our favorite ice cream shops in town to help you get your fix.

→ Baltimore in a Box Ice Cream 

HAMPDEN

After four years of selling his namesake gift boxes full of Charm City goodies—and curating a collection of other local items and apparel at his Maryland flag-painted storefront on the Avenue in Hampden—Baltimore in a Box founder Ross Nochumowitz says transitioning to frozen sweets seemed like “a natural fit.”

Inspired by homegrown treats like Goetze’s Caramel Creams and Berger cookies—which frequently appear in his boxes—last year, Nochumowitz launched a walk-up window on the other side of the Avenue to sell batches of Baltimore-themed flavors. True to the brand, the scoops are served in Chinese takeout-style boxes.

“Summer in Charm City is our top seller,” he says. “It’s like an egg custard snowball with marshmallows swirled in. Some people don’t expect that, but it works well in terms of texture and taste.”

Other favorite flavors—also available at area food markets like Geresbeck’s and Graul’s—include Cal’s Streak (an orange creamsicle ode to Cal Ripken Jr. with chocolate chips) and the I’m So Crabby, which blends Utz crab chips into a vanilla base.

“Ice cream is still so new to us,” says Nochumowitz, who hopes that his scoop venture draws in some new faces this summer. “A lot of people still don’t know we’re out there, but we’re here to stay.”

→ Bmore Licks

PATTERSON PARK AND FEDERAL HILL

Sun drenches the corner outside Bmore Licks in Patterson Park, where customers (and their dogs) mull over chalk-scribbled flavors of hard and soft ice cream.

Married couple Kim and Barbara Maloni, whose family owns two ice cream shops in New England, had been pining for more dessert options near their Patterson Park home, so they decided to open their own along Eastern Avenue in 2017.

Three years, a second location in Federal Hill, and scores of flavors later—there are 100 soft-serve flavors, as well as over 30 flavors of hard ice cream—they’re still finding excuses to “keep eating ice cream,” says Kim.

Sure, you could get a classic vanilla or chocolate in a cone or cup. But Bmore Licks is a great spot to get adventurous, with signature flavors such as the blue Cookie Monster, Zeke’s Coffee Toffee, strawberry Oreo, and orange creamsicle O’s and Bros with brownie chunks.

So, what’s the owners’ secret to concocting their quirky best sellers?

“So much of it is just about experimenting,” Kim says. Naturally, the couple’s 5-year-old son, Rhett, and 2-year-old daughter, Blake, like to assist. “Rhett has a good sense of flavor,” Kim adds. “He’s like a little ice cream connoisseur in his own right.”

Above all, the family sees the dairy dessert as a vehicle for serving their community. “Ice cream is just such a fun product,” Kim says. “But to meet so many people, form connections, and have a place that brings people together has been a great experience. We’ve gotten so much from it.”

→ Cajou Creamery

DOWNTOWN

Decorated with woven lamps, cascading potted plants, and Buddha statues, this bright-yellow-painted Howard Street storefront—inspired by the owners’ travels “all over the world”—offers tranquil respite from the midday heat. Once inside, you’ll notice the silver vats of ice cream, some of which are covered with pistachio bits or drizzled with thick syrup.

Cajou is the DMV’s first Black-owned plant-based creamery. Soon, it wants to function as a worker-owned cooperative, where co-founder Nicole Foster plans to hire formerly incarcerated citizens.

“I suppose the business started with my mothering,” Foster says. When she and partner Dwight Campbell (he’s from Jamaica; her family is from Guyana) first realized that their two young children, Niko and Nathaniel, were lactose intolerant, they searched the market for dairy-free ice cream replacements, to no avail.

“Everything we found was weird and chunky or had crazy ingredients,” says Foster, formerly a criminal defense attorney. After earning a raw vegan chef certification, the concerned mom started crafting her own plant milks. She came up with a cashew ice cream blend so similar to dairy that it didn’t need an artificial thickener. “Our friends and family were demanding it,” says Foster. “They’d say, ‘You don’t have to come. Just bring the ice cream!’”

Today, that same product, which sits on the shelves at area markets, comes in global flavors such as mango lassi, Mexican cacao, and Caribbean-inspired flavors such as passion fruit and tamarind.

“We still make everything by hand, from scratch,” Foster says. “Our customers can taste that.”

→ The Charmery

MULTIPLE LOCATIONS INCLUDING HAMPDEN AND TOWSON

Nine years ago, a former corner pharmacy on The Avenue in Hampden transformed into a frosty dream come true. Today, The Charmery’s flagship—adorned with retro pinstripes and a giant metal scoop above the door—has evolved into an ice cream empire, with five area locations scattered from Columbia to Towson.

Run by husband-and-wife duo David and Laura Alima, the shop has become known for its “always” flavors that often feature nods to Baltimore (think: caramel with Old Bay and Maryland Mud). But customers also line up around the block for David’s funky—and sometimes daring—limited releases, such as cantaloupe prosciutto and spicy peanut brittle made with fried garlic peanuts sourced from former Hampden neighbor Heritage Kitchen.

Aside from the cutting-edge ice cream, the scoop shop’s almost decade-long success lies in its staff, according to Laura.

“When we look to bring people onto our team, it’s not about them being able to scoop ice cream,” she says. “You can teach that. When we meet a scooper for the first time, we want to know, do they bring smiles to our faces? Those are the people that we feel are going to best represent the whole experience.”

As The Charmery continues to expand, they hope the experience remains joyful. “The best thing is seeing little kids come with their families and babies come to us to have their first taste of ice cream,” Laura says. “To be a part of people’s lives like that is pretty great.”

→ The Cow

REISTERSTOWN AND WESTMINSTER

Just before the sun sets on a spring evening, the parking lot outside of this Main Street institution fills up with cars and families. Two school-aged children hurry toward the window.

“It’s a cow!” the little boy exclaims. “I want to ride the cow!”

“I want to milk the cow!” the girl chimes in. She’s sitting beneath the spotted statue that co-owner Mike Reiner bought 22 years ago for $2,000 when he launched the Reisterstown shop, which he initially named Dairy Fresh.

Thanks to the striking statue facing traffic on Reisterstown Road, that name didn’t stick with customers for long.

“Everyone was calling us ‘The Cow,’” Reiner says. “It was like a slang name for the store.” By popular demand, and with a nod to Reiner’s boyhood memories of eating ice cream cones at Cloverland Dairy, The Cow adopted its new moniker in 2005.

Since then, the dairy depot (with a second location in Westminster), has gained a massive following with its locally sourced custard and creamy Italian ice, which comes in 60 flavors. Clever iterations of the latter include pear, red velvet cake, rocky road, peanut butter, and mint chocolate chip.

When it comes to the custard, though, there’s one resounding favorite. “It’s vanilla. That’s our key to making better products,” Reiner says, adding that it’s also the base for such creations as cake batter and black raspberry.

Thanks to The Cow’s catering truck, personalized treats have made the rounds at children’s birthday parties, weddings, nursing homes, hospice facilities, and funerals, too.

“We had a hearse show up once,” Reiner recalls. “A dying man apparently requested that his loved ones all be taken to The Cow. A woman tried to pay, and I just said, ‘Last one’s on me.’ The last one is always on me.”

→ Pitango Gelato

FELLS POINT

Inside the minty green South Broadway home of Pitango Gelato, store owner Noah Dan doles out small servings of bacio (gianduja gelato with chocolate chips and hazelnuts), raspberry sorbet, lemon sorbet, vanilla, and fior di latte. The latter, which translates to “flower of milk” in Italian, serves as the rich base for flavors like stracciatella.

A native of Israel, Dan, who spent childhood summers in Trieste, Italy, grew up on what he calls “honest gelato,” and has seen the confection—which utilizes less fat and air during the churning process than traditional American ice cream—evolve from its simplest form to a commonly pre-made “industrial product.”

In 2007, Dan opened Pitango in Fells Point, with hopes of using quality ingredients to emulate the authentic gelato of his youth.

“To keep our product stable, we have to make and sell it in a very short time, so we don’t use any chemicals or coloring,” says Dan, pointing to his use of local fruits (think sour cherries sourced from Pennsylvania) instead of concentrate, and single-origin chocolate by Domori, imported from Italy. It’s not always easy, due to pricing and supply flow, but Dan says customers can taste the difference.

“I think Baltimore loves us now, but it took a long time for them to recognize us,” he says. “People aren’t just going to [spring for] gelato when they know they can find some cheaper ice cream down the street. There are other places with a line around the block, but the presence that we have now brings me lots of satisfaction.”

→ Prigel Family Creamery 

GLEN ARM

On a 92-degree afternoon, customers at Prigel Family Creamery at Bellevale Farm in Glen Arm’s Long Green Valley are hovered over picnic-style benches in the grass, enjoying drippy cups and cones. Pat Phillips of Parkville waits in line outside the farmhouse-style market.

“I like the mint chocolate chip, but today, I’m getting the cookies and cream and the caramel pretzel,” Phillips says, motioning toward her husband. “He loves the black cherry.”

Though Prigel is more than just an ice cream shop (it also offers sandwiches, smoked sausages, and house-made empanadas), the ice cream helped Bellevale Farm expand into the retail business, explains Mandy Castillo, who grew up on the farm and started working at the shop that her father, Bobby, launched 12 years ago. (A retail offshoot is located at Belvedere Square.)

“He would take ground coffee and sprinkle it over chocolate ice cream.” That turned into Bobby’s Black Mud, made with Zeke’s Coffee cold brew, which is definitely a favorite, says Castillo. From there, Prigel’s flavors kept evolving. Other options, which Castillo says contain no-frills ingredients and are generous in terms of butterfat (a whopping 17 percent helps to ensure each base is creamy), have ranged from bacon jam to Key lime pie.

“Honestly, we’ve done it all. We’ve even made a three-tier wedding cake out of pure ice cream. That was crazy,” she says, adding that one couple had their first date and rehearsal dinner at the family farm. “We’ll probably have their baby shower, too.”

Castillo says that watching local families grow and change has been “a blessing” through the years.

“There are kids I served 12 years ago, who’ve come here their entire lives, and grow up and get jobs with us,” she adds. “We get to meet their families. It’s been really cool becoming part of the community and having it become a part of us.”

→ Taharka Brothers

MULTIPLE LOCATIONS INCLUDING REMINGTON AND FELLS POINT

In 2013, Detric McCoy was playing basketball when he got a call from his grandmother. She told him, “I’m coming to get you right now. I want you to meet someone important to me.” This is how McCoy, who was still a teenager at the time, first connected with Sean Smeeton, the president of Sylvan Beach Cafe—a Baltimore-based ice cream company that would employ returning citizens.

Coincidentally, when Smeeton had been a basketball coach several years earlier, one of his mentees had been McCoy’s father, Taharka Lee McCoy, who was murdered 20 years ago while breaking up a fight in East Baltimore.

Unbeknownst to his survivors, in 2010—eight years after the elder McCoy’s death—Sylvan Beach became Taharka Brothers ice cream. Back then, it was for sale in local supermarkets—which is how McCoy’s grandmother first found out about the company. “Sean and I were instantly connected,” says McCoy, who now directs Taharka’s marketing and sales.

The worker-owned cooperative—whose presence is felt throughout the city with a roving truck; stalls at Broadway Market, R. House, and Cross Street Market; and flavors featured on many local restaurant menus—has become known for concocting innovative scoops that contribute to its social justice mission. A share of proceeds from each pint of the blackberry crumble-infused Keep Ya Head Up (named after our own Tupac Shakur’s 1993 hit), for example, supports the late rapper’s mental health foundation.

Other thoughtful flavors include coffee Oreo, caramel crunch, and non-dairy golden milk. But as McCoy confirms, Taharka’s honey graham, which dazzles with a thick graham cracker swirl, is a favorite.

“I like honey graham because it’s simple and sweet,” he says. “It’s something that we’ve never had to change. One time, as an April Fool’s joke, I went on social media and said that it was out of stock, and our customers went crazy. There were thousands of replies. But it was awesome to see how much people loved us. The people are the best part.”

Other fan-favorite scoop shops:

• Sydney’s Ice Creams, 3500 Harford Rd.
• Tipsy Scoop, 209 Key Highway.
• Miss Twist Ice Cream, Multiple locations
• Fells Point Creamery, 821 S. Broadway
• Ice Cream Jubilee, 1041 Wills St.

Happy Trails

Make a day trip out of tasting all the creameries on Maryland’s iconic Ice Cream Trail.

How much does the Old Line State love ice cream? Enough to go the extra mile for it.

Ten years ago, the Maryland Department of Agriculture launched the Maryland Ice Cream Trail, with dairy-driven destinations everywhere from Bel Air to Caroline County. The Maryland Ice Cream Trail drew inspiration from similar—albeit less chilly—wine trails (think Antietam Highlands, Gunpowder, and Piedmont) to help further awareness of our dairy farms and lure visitors throughout the state. Broom’s Bloom Dairy and Prigel Family Creamery are two beloved stops found in our neck of the woods.

“It’s great to be a part of that community and heritage of dairy [farms] in Maryland,” says Mandy Castillo, who is fifth generation on her family farm. “It’s a joy to see how dedicated and excited people are to be completing the whole trail.” Sounds like a challenge to us!

Check out our list of spots on the trail to help you sate your sweet tooth.

Deliteful Dairy
16230 Long Delite Ln. Williamsport

Misty Meadow Farm Creamery
14325 Misty Meadow Rd. Smithsburg

South Mountain Creamery
8305 Bolivar Rd. Middletown

Rocky Point Creamery
4323 Tuscarora Rd. Tuscarora

Woodbourne Creamery
at Rock Hill Orchard 28600 Ridge Rd. Mt. Airy

Prigel Family Creamery
4852 Long Green Rd. Glen Arm

Broom’s Bloom Dairy
1700 S. Fountain Green Rd. (MD 543) Bel Air

Keyes Creamery
349 Hopewell Rd. Havre de Grace

Kilby Cream
129 Strohmaier Ln. Rising Sun

Chesapeake Bay Farms
8905 Logtown Rd. Berlin

[Editor’s Note: After taking some time off, we are happy to resume our recurring “Open & Shut” column chronicling the latest restaurant happenings. Throughout the past few months, we’ve pivoted our weekly food coverage to tell personal stories of how chefs, restaurant owners, and industry workers are faring throughout the pandemic. Our “Without Reservation” column will continue, and as the food scene continues to press on in the wake of ever-changing dining regulations, “Open & Shut” will also run on a bi-weekly basis. We deeply appreciate your readership and hope that this column reiterates the importance of supporting Charm City’s unique array of restaurants, especially when they need it most.]

OPEN

NiHao: Perhaps the most highly anticipated local restaurant in years has officially made its debut in Canton. Culinary icon Peter Chang, along with his wife, Lisa, and daughter, Lydia, have brought on longtime friend Pichet Ong to collaborate on a menu of contemporary Chinese dishes that reflect both of the chef’s styles. Now open for carryout and delivery, NiHao—the casual Chinese greeting that evokes a sense of connection, according to the owners—offers traditional options such as a whole peking duck, shrimp dumplings, and mapo tofu. And enticing dishes unique to the restaurant include cumin lamb and corn ribs, chicken and tofu skin salad, Grand Marnier prawns in lettuce cups, and crispy bamboo catfish. Beverage director Janet Cam, formerly of Le Pavillon in Washington, D.C., has curated a list of worldly wines, Asian beers, Baiju cocktails, and craft sodas made with house-made shrubs to pair with the food. As they continue with their phased opening plan, the owners are looking forward to unveiling the revamped interior of the former Fork & Wrench space when the restaurant opens for indoor dining in the months ahead.

Lexington Market: Lexington is the latest of the Baltimore Public Markets to reopen in the midst of the coronavirus. Effective today, the market will open with proper safety measures at 50 percent capacity on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 8 a.m.-4 p.m. As shoppers return to visit their favorite vendors, developers with Seawall continue their redevelopment plans and will soon begin the vendor selection process for the revamped market set to open in 2022.

Sally O’s: Diners got a taste of this new concept from Top Chef alum Jesse Sandlin when she popped up at Mr. Nice Guy Cocktails in April. Now, the chef is ready to officially open Sally O’s on Friday, July 31. Set in the former home of The Laughing Pint in Highlandtown, the restaurant will offer an array of small plates, sandwiches, pastas, and hearty mains for carryout and outdoor dining. Dishes to look out for include crab-stuffed jalapeño poppers, a summer salad with nectarines and sweet peppers, crispy eggplant lasagna, and a buttermilk chicken sandwich with szechuan pickles. Though Sandlin is still awaiting liquor license approval, she will be featuring a few mocktails and coffee drinks from Black Acres Roastery to get started.

Until Conditions Improve: After a temporary closure a few weeks ago, the owners of The Bluebird in Hampden went back to the drawing board to think of a socially distanced pop-up concept that they hoped would be able to withstand the ever-changing dining restrictions. What they came up with is a burger-and-milkshake stand aptly named Until Conditions Improve. Starting this week, diners can order boozy amaretto milkshakes, burgers, BLT hot dogs, cornmeal-crusted fried pickles, and some of the bar’s classic cocktails for to-go or outdoor patio service.

COMING SOON

Bmore Licks: Just as they did in Canton three years ago, Bmore Licks owners Kim Proctor and Barbara Maloni have commissioned a massive, hand-painted ice cream mural on the side of their new building in Federal Hill. Locals might have noticed the artwork at 901 Light St., which will soon open as Bmore Licks’ second location. Expect the same fun flavors of homemade hard ice cream and soft serve (favorites include butter crunch, lemon ginger cookie, and Zeke’s coffee toffee) to be delivered through safely distanced takeout windows when the shop debuts later this summer. Bmore Licks adds to the growing ice cream options in the neighborhood, which recently welcomed The Charmery and will soon host Taharka Bros. inside Cross Street Market.

Bushel and a Peck Kitchen & Bar: Iron Bridge Wine Company co-owner Rob Wecker is teaming up with chef Joe Krywucki to bring this Chesapeake Bay-inspired restaurant to the former home of Food Plenty in Clarksville this September. The Maryland natives and longtime friends plan to offer a menu that shows off the bounty of the Bay, with highlights including rockfish, shrimp, and, of course, Maryland crab. Wecker, who also happens to be a master sommelier, plans to create a list of local beer, wine, and cocktails to accompany all of the dishes.

CH-CH CHANGES

Di Pasquale’s Marketplace: After more than 100 years in Highlandtown, this community staple is moving to a larger space in Brewers Hill next year. Taking over the former home of Ceriello Fine Foods on the bottom of The Porter apartment building, the Italian market will be able to grow its production and give customers more room to breathe while browsing its famous cheeses, meats, and prepared foods. In a note announcing the move on Facebook, the Di Pasquale family assured regulars that, despite moving a mile away, their hearts will always be in Highlandtown: “We may be moving some of our operations, but that does not mean we will divest our interest in the Highlandtown community that has taken care of us for over a century. We are excited to take this next step with you.”

BAKERY BULLETIN

Kitsch: Pastry chef Jacqueline Mearman, most recently of Atlas Restaurant Group, took to Instagram last week to announce plans to open her own spot near the Johns Hopkins University campus. Slated to open in October, the shop will offer egg sandwiches, a curated coffee and tea program, and some of Mearman’s signature sweets.

Ovenbird Bakery: Follow the smell of fresh-baked bread to find this new bakery in Little Italy. The handwritten list of artisan offerings rotates daily, highlighting rye, sourdough, ciabatta, and Italian loaves. There’s also house-made scones, pressed paninis, and desserts like cheesecake and Key Lime pie.

Pekara Bakery: The spirit of European pastry palace Roggenart, which shuttered in Mt. Washington months back, now lives on in Roland Park. Serbian-born owner Radomir Mihajlovic and head baker Borislav Petkovic—both of whom previously worked for Roggenart—recently celebrated the grand opening of their new spot on Coldspring Lane. Carrying over many of their recipes featured at the old spot, Pekara features pastries such as butter croissants, walnut brioche, and a classic pain au raisin.

Pie Time Baltimore: The brick-and-mortar home for this farmers market favorite is getting close to opening in Patterson Park. Neighbors have likely seen the freshly painted storefront on the corner of East Baltimore and South Ellwood streets, where owner Max Reim plans to offer his sweet and savory pies along with the strong lattes, espressos, cappuccinos, and Americanos that fans know and love from his pop-ups.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

Ongoing: Johnny’s Sunday Pop-Up Market
Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group is continuing its weekly Sunday markets in the parking lot of Johnny’s and Petit Louis Bistro in Roland Park. From 8-11 a.m., shop fresh pastas and sauces from Cinghiale, empanadas and produce from Bar Vasquez, breakfast and coffee from Johnny’s, and a selection of wines from all of the restaurant’s cellars picked by co-owner Tony Foreman. Plus, produce from local farms and artwork created by Foreman Wolf employees.

8/2: Don’t Know Community Pop-Up: Lucifero Loaves
Federal Hill’s Don’t Know Tavern is a prime example of the “a rising tide lifts all boats” mantra that has been practiced among industry workers since the shutdown. Starting this weekend, husband-and-wife owners John and Brittany Leonard are supporting fellow food businesses by hosting a different pop-up in one of their carryout windows on weekends. Kicking things off on August 2 will be artisan baker Lucifero Loaves, a regular at the Overlea and Baltimore Museum of Industry farmers markets. Be on the lookout for other purveyors including Codetta Bakeshop, Wild Berry Farm Market, and The Salad Lady scheduled to appear throughout the rest of the summer.

8/6: Takeout Thursdays With Dining Out For Life
Locals might be familiar with Dining Out For Life as the one-day-only promotion in which area restaurants donate a portion of their sales to Moveable Feast, which feeds those who are critically ill. But in the midst of COVID-19, organizers are vowing to give back to the restaurants that have supported the cause for the past 27 years. In addition to accepting individual donations through September 17, Dining Out For Life is streaming virtual concerts, seminars, and showcases on Facebook Live on Thursday evenings with the hope that diners will tune in while enjoying takeout from one of its many restaurant partners. Coming up on August 6 is a live performance by local acoustic band The Befuddlers, followed by composer Peter Dayton live from The Owl Bar, and a discussion on the future of the Black Lives Matter movement with community organizer Andre Robinson.

SHUT

Chez Hugo Bistro: It’s no secret that the coronavirus has been devastating for the local restaurant scene, and among the latest spots that have announced closures is this beloved bistro in the historic Merchants Club building downtown. French-born chef Steve Monnier and co-owner Scott Helm announced last week that they made the decision to shutter the restaurant amid the restricted dining capacity and “enormous uncertainty around when these conditions might change.” For more than two years, the cozy dining room has been a place to feast on escargot, steak frites, and Monnier’s famous multi-course tasting menus served by stellar staff.

(RE)OPEN

Bmore Licks: As temperatures continue to climb this week, locals are hyped that this Patterson Park scoop shop has made its return for the season. Bmore Licks started its fourth year out strong by giving away free soft-serve cones to customers earlier this week. (With plenty of no-additional-charge rainbow sprinkles, of course.) Now, the dessert destination is officially back in action with all of its fan-favorite treats including homemade hard ice cream, snowballs, sundaes, milkshakes, and even ice cream tacos and nachos made with waffle cones. Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day this month with the “Magically Delicious” flavor that mixes in Lucky Charms marshmallows.

COMING SOON

The Gourmet: Catonsville Gourmet owners Craig and Cristina Rinkerman have been serving up the restaurant’s specialty seafood, sushi, and prime cuts of meat to the community for the past 12 years. Come fall, they will expand their reach to Towson with a second location at The Shops at Kenilworth. Located in the mall’s new expansion alongside the forthcoming Felipe’s Mexican Taqueria, the 5,450-square-foot sister-spot will boast a large dining room, a separate raw bar and lounge, and an outdoor patio that can accommodate more than 180 people. Much like the flagship, The Gourmet will offer a comfortable setting highlighting fresh fish, oysters, steaks, and signature cocktails.

BEER BULLETIN

DuClaw and Wockenfuss to Launch “PastryArchy Carmallow”: We love it when two Baltimore food-and-drink brands join forces—and that’s exactly what DuClaw Brewing Co. and 104-year-old Charm City staple Wockenfuss Candies are doing later this month. Just in time for Easter, DuClaw will launch the cleverly named “PastryArchy Carmallow”—an 8.5-percent ABV imperial stout made with 100 pounds of caramel and marshmallows. The idea, of course, is for the beer to mimic the flavor profile of Wokenfuss’ famous Carmallow candies. As Wockenfuss candy manufacturing manager Greg Butler points out: “There are a lot of similarities between candy-making and brewing. It’ll be fun to taste the final result.” The beer is expected to hit taps and shelves in Maryland and all of DuClaw’s territories by late March.

Key Brewing and RoFo Release Cold Rolled Breakfast Stout: Speaking of collaborations with iconic Baltimore brands, Dundalk’s Key Brewing Co. is celebrating the official release of its new stout made with Royal Farms’ Colombian coffee at a launch party at Five & Dime Ale House tonight. The breakfast beer clocks in at a 5.5 percent ABV and hits shelves at local liquor stores this week.

Suspended Brewing Turns Two: Pigtown’s neighborhood brewery known for its sustainable focus is pulling out all of the stops to ring in its two-year anniversary this weekend. The festivities kick off with Baltimore trivia and eats by Ekiben on Thursday night, followed by Filipino fare from the Masarap pop-up and draft cocktails Friday, more draft cocktails and steamed buns by Ekiben Saturday, and a Sunday afternoon drag brunch. Swing by the community hangout to down some of its signature pints while enjoying all of the fun.

SHUT

Gordon Biersch: Happy hours in Harbor East won’t be the same now that this brewpub has closed its doors for good. A sign posted to the front door earlier this week thanked diners for seven years of patronage, and confirmed that the spot had closed for good on March 1. Though the Annapolis location remains open, the chain restaurant closed many of its regional restaurants—including one in Rockville and one in Washington, D.C.—after parent company CraftWorks Holdings filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy earlier this week. There’s no word yet on what will become of the abandoned space, which is equipped with brewing tanks and a large patio overlooking Lancaster Street.

OPEN

Mason’s Famous Lobster Rolls: This Annapolis staple changed the game when it brought its signature lobster rolls to Belvedere Square in 2017. The Northern expansion was so well received, that Mason’s has now debuted a second Baltimore outpost in the Inner Harbor. Founder Dan Beck, a veteran seafood buyer who spent more than 20 years getting to know New England lobstermen, packs Mason’s buttery buns with hearty chunks of meat hauled from the waterways of Maine. The new Harborplace eatery features rolls served both classic (warm with melted butter) or salad (chilled meat with mayo, celery, and lemon) style, along with lobster mac and cheese and classic clam chowder. Mason’s adds a much-needed dining option to the Inner Harbor area, which lost Five Guys, M&S Grill, Noodles & Co., and Brio Tuscan Grill all within the past year. 201 E. Pratt St. 443-453-9664

NEWS

Bmore Licks: As temperatures creep up into the 60s this week, we couldn’t have asked for a better time for this Patterson Park sweets shop to reopen for the season. Bmore Licks took its annual winter hiatus after the holidays to test new recipes and spruce up the interior. Now, it’s back just in time for spring with plenty of soft-serve, snowballs, donuts, dessert nachos, and ice cream scoops to go around. Among the new featured flavors to look out for is the St. Patrick’s Day-inspired “Magically Delicious,” made with a sweet cream base and lots of colorful Lucky Charms marshmallows. 2437 Eastern Ave. 410-732-5425

NextAct Cinema at The Pikes: Pikesville locals were ecstatic when the landmark Pikes Theatre, one of the oldest in the area with roots dating back to 1938, reopened in full force earlier this month. Now operating as NextAct Cinema, the renovated facility boasts two intimate screening rooms, stadium seating, accompanying plush blankets, a full lobby bar, and updated concession areas with digital menu screens. Perhaps the greatest perk: guests who arrive 30 minutes prior to showtime can order wine, beer, popcorn, candy, or a full meal from the adjacent Pikes Cinema Bar and Grill to have delivered straight to their seats. The menu at includes quick-turnaround bites such as sliders, personal pizzas, quesadillas, soups, salads, and chicken tenders. The first wave of showings includes Captain Marvel, Us, and How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World. 921 Reisterstown Rd. 443-548-3783

COMING SOON

Char’d City: As its name implies, wood-fired fare will steal the spotlight at this new Hamilton restaurant. Expected to open in the former home of Clementine on Harford Road this spring, the neighborhood spot from owners Sindee Gibson and Yassine Rhamdhnia will offer house-made pizzas alongside other gluten-free, paleo, vegetarian, and vegan selections. Specifically, the menu will fuse Southern Italian flavors with North African recipes inspired by Rhamdhinia’s roots in Tunisia. A grand opening could be on the horizon as soon as next month. 5402 Harford Rd. 443-760-1501

Pizza Palace: Speaking of pizza, this new spot is slated to open any day now in Federal Hill. The Light Street space will stay open until 2 a.m. on weekends, so we can only expect that it will soon become a favorite of Federal Hill revelers in need of fuel after last call. In addition to hot subs and regular red sauce pies, the menu also lists specialty options like a Philly cheesesteak pizza and a Greek version with tzatziki sauce. 1538 Light St. 410-244-0444

Das Bier Haus: Pizza Palace takes over the former home of Fornicolli’s, an Italian concept that was briefly run by the owners of Das Bier Haus next door. Soon after they closed the pizza shop, management also shuttered the German beer hall while working to resolve structural issues that have plagued the building throughout the years. “A lot of the problems that made the previous businesses in this location fail have come back to haunt the place,” reads a January post to Das Bier Haus’ Facebook page. “It has taken away from our core values as a business of customer service, inventory, and overall consistency.” Here’s hoping Das Bier Haus reopens soon after its new neighbor Pizza Palace joins the scene. 1542 Light St.

CHEF CH-CH CHANGES

Hotel Revival: As Mt. Vernon’s newest hotel approaches its first anniversary in April, the food and beverage team is welcoming some new faces. Chef Scott Hines, formerly of B&O American Brasserie inside the Hotel Monaco, has been brought on as the new executive chef. Simultaneously, Revival has appointed new food and beverage director Lindsay Chapon—a Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts grad who has racked up a decade’s worth of experience at hotels throughout the country. Together, the two will spearhead seasonal menus for the restaurant’s all-day cafe Square Meal, rooftop bar Topside, and private karaoke rooms. 101 W. Monument St. 410-727-7101

Noona’s: This Bolton Hill newbie recently debuted its spring menu highlighting house-made pizzas, abruzzo meatballs, pork belly rillette, and ricotta gnocchi. Not only does the new menu mark Noona’s first seasonal rotation since opening, but it’s also the first to premiere under the helm of new chef Cai Lindeman. The chef is an alum of Michelin-rated The Dabney in Washington, D.C., and also known as the brains behind the Burnt Coat pop-up—which served its locally sourced dishes at spots like R. House and the former New America Diner. The farm-to-table ethos will be translated into the menu at Noona’s, which makes use of baby radishes from Karma Farm in Monkton, local Keepwell vinegars, free-range pork belly from Liberty Delight Farms in Reisterstown, and Lindeman’s own foraged spicebush berries. 410-424-0857

Sagamore Pendry Baltimore: Chef Andrew Carmellini’s NoHo Hospitality Group has brought new blood into the kitchens of this luxe hotel in Fells Point. Now overseeing the property’s Italian-influenced Rec Pier Chop House and whiskey bar The Cannon Room is chef Robert McGrattan. His resume includes 14 years of experience behind the line at acclaimed properties such as Nashville’s Hutton Hotel and The Westin Charlotte in North Carolina. He brings culinary knowledge and skills that have also awarded him the opportunity to cook alongside all-stars Edward Lee, Josiah Citrin, and Ken Frank at multiple James Beard House dinners. 1715 Thames St. 443-552-1400

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/21: Fogo and Friends
Everyman Theatre is teaming up with Fogo de Chão in the Inner Harbor to host this special dinner-and-a-show event inspired by its current production Dinner With Friends. In addition to parking and round-trip transportation to the restaurant, guests will enjoy one free drink, endless prime cuts of meat, Fogo’s bottomless salad bar, coffee, and dessert before heading back to the theater to see the play. A portion of all proceeds will benefit Everyman’s future productions. 315 W. Fayette St. $95.50. 410-752-2208

3/26: Cosima Turns Three
To celebrate its third anniversary, Cosima at Mill No. 1 in Hampden is hosting a special three-course dinner with three options for each section. Chef Donna Crivello will pay homage to the restaurant’s run with Sicilian specialties, as well as dishes that have been customer favorites since it opened. Offerings to look out for will include baked ricotta gnocchi, grilled swordfish, stuffed eggplant with red peppers and marinara, and the classic Sicilian doughnuts rolled in cinnamon sugar. 3000 Falls Rd. $66. 443-708-7352

OPEN

Zeke’s Coffee: Baltimore County dwellers can now fuel up with homegrown Zeke’s Coffee while strolling the aisles of the brand new Green Valley Marketplace in Timonium. The Hamilton-based roastery now operates its own cafe inside the grocery store, offering its signature blends alongside bagels, muffins, pastries, and breakfast sandwiches. In addition to Zeke’s, the locally owned grocery chain also offers kombucha on tap, a sushi bar, a full bakery department, and Maryland blue crabs steamed in-store. 15 E. Padonia Rd., Timonium. 410-628-1700

CH-CH CHANGES

Sam’s Canterbury Cafe: You might notice a few changes the next time you stop in to see the namesake Sam at this community-focused cafe, whose mission includes providing meaningful employment for individuals with autism. After closing briefly for renovations last month, the inviting spot now features a new kitchen with pass-through access to the dining area, making service more efficient. Additionally, the menu has been refreshed with house made pastries, as well as sandwiches made with breads and bagels from Stone Mill Bakery. Be on the lookout for other new items including a curried chicken salad wrap, folded flatbread with mozzarella and burrata, and avocado toast with arugula and cherry tomatoes. 3811 Canterbury Rd. 443-438-4545

WINTER BREAKS

Bmore Licks: This Patterson Park dessert spot is taking its annual winter hiatus starting Sunday, December 23. Until then, be sure to get your fix of festive flavors including Christmas cookie (sweet sugar cookie base with Christmas sprinkles) and candy cane Oreo, a mixture of peppermint stick ice cream with candy cane pieces and Oreo crumbles. The shop is expected to make its return just in time for the rising temperatures this spring, with plenty of snowballs, donuts, dessert tacos, and drippy double-scoop cones to go around. 2437 Eastern Ave. 410-732-5425

Baltimore Farmers’ Market & Bazaar: This weekend will be the last for farmers’ market fiends to score local goods beneath the Jones Falls Expressway. The 41st season of the Baltimore Farmers’ Market & Bazaar official ends Sunday, but all of the fan-favorite crafters and food purveyors will be back again come April. To celebrate another great season, organizers are giving away free tote bags to the first 50 visitors who stop by the Welcome Tent near Hillen Street. Another plus: the final market offers tons of holiday essentials for last-minute shoppers. Highlights will include wreaths and decorative greenery, craft mead by Charm City Meadworks, and locally sourced meats from Albright Farms. Beneath the Jones Falls Expressway at Holliday and Saratoga streets. 7 a.m.-12 p.m.

SHUT

The Hoof Cafe: Just six months after opening in Locust Point, this neighborhood coffee corner has sadly closed its doors. In a message posted to Facebook earlier this month, co-owner Rebecca Friedman announced that she made the tough decision to close the cafe due to a family emergency. The post goes on to thank all of the neighbors who supported the eatery throughout its short-but-sweet run. “We do believe a coffee shop is needed in Locust Point,” it reads. The owners are currently searching for a new team to take over the shop, which became known for its warm lattes, cozy furniture, filling egg sandwiches, and local ice cream scoops sourced from South Mountain Creamery. 1648 E. Fort Ave.

Remington Wine Co.: Remington locals have taken to social media to lament the loss of this go-to wine and spirits shop on West 29th Street, which sold its last bottles earlier this month. In a message posted to Instagram, husband-and-wife owners Mitchell Pressman and Debbie Jones announced that financial circumstances both “beyond our control and of our own making have made it impossible to continue operating.”

Two years ago, the owners debuted the store as a continuation of Chesapeake Wine Co. in the Canton Can Company—which they operated for 17 years before deciding to downsize. “Remington is a neighborhood in the midst of big changes, and it has been our pleasure to meet and get to know both old and new members of the community,” the post reads. “The support you have given us, as well as the continued support of customers we brought to Remington from our 17 years in Canton, has been terrific.” 329 W. 29th St.

COMING SOON

Charmed: There’s a new kid on the 800 block of North Calvert Street in Mt. Vernon. This neighborhood cafe that sits just across the street from Brew House No. 16 is expected to make its debut in March. The breakfast and lunch spot from former Riptide by the Bay manager Danae Schrock will offer an array of omelets, sandwiches, burgers, salads, and house-baked muffins and scones. Schrock will also be using her family’s classic soup, Sloppy Joe, and chocolate chip cookie recipes. “For years I’ve dreamed of opening my own little spot in the city,” she says. “I’m excited to be in Mt. Vernon and really make connections in the neighborhood.” 824 N. Calvert St.

29th Street Tavern: Fans of Swallow at the Hollow in Belvedere Square will be happy to hear that owner Aaron Reinhart is spearheading a new project in Remington. Reinhart recently took over the old Long John’s Pub space on the corner of 29th Street and Miles Avenue, and has transformed it into an updated watering hole that still maintains the building’s history and dive bar feel. Expected to open next week, 29th Street Tavern will offer Natty Boh and Monument City 51 Rye on tap, and eats including burgers, cheesesteaks, wraps, and wings. 398 W. 29th St.

The Red Star Charles Village: Big things are on the horizon this year for the team behind The Red Star Bar & Grill in Fells Point. Aside from rehabbing the old Dead End Saloon space down the block, the owners are also planning to open a second Red Star location in Charles Village this spring. The spinoff will join the likes of Honeygrow, THB Bagels & Deli, and Bird in Hand in the new Nine East 33rd student housing development near the Johns Hopkins campus. The Red Star menu is expected to mirror its flagship, featuring a variety of wraps, salads, burgers, and pizzas. 9 E. 33rd St.  

Rise Biscuits Donuts: Timonium locals are anxiously awaiting the debut of this biscuit and donut destination, which will host a grand opening fundraiser benefiting the Timonium Elementary PTA on January 13. Lauded by the likes of Food & Wine magazine, the North Carolina-based chain offers biscuit sandwiches topped with everything from sausage and eggs to fried green tomatoes. The donuts are also a highlight, with flavors including maple-bacon, red velvet, chocolate cake, cinnamon twist, and classic glazed with sprinkles. 1620 York Road, Lutherville, 410-372-3171

OPEN

Food Plenty: The family behind Victoria Gastro Pub and Manor Hill Brewing premiered this long-awaited comfort food spot in Clarksville last week. Now operating in soft-opening mode for dinner service, the restaurant serves dishes including pan-roasted rockfish, bison burgers, fried chicken, and macaroni and cheese—with many ingredients sourced from the family’s 54-acre working farm located 10 minutes away in Ellicott City. Food Plenty—which is named after a Windsor Mill farm that owners Randy and Mary Marriner raised their daughters near—joins other local businesses You Pizza and Kupcakes & Co. in the new Clarksville Commons development. 12250 Clarksville Pike, Clarksville, 410-531-0411

Roll Ice Cream & Coffee: Last week, owners Jason Werner and Jessica Reyes unveiled this trendy concept that offers rolled ice cream—a dessert with roots in Asia that presses the cream flat on a cold slab, mixes it with toppings, and scrapes it in rolls into a cup. The Highlandtown shop also features local Vent coffees and pastries by Batch Bake Shop in Hamilton. 3222 Eastern Ave., 443-595-7655

EPICUREAN EVENTS

TO 1/31: Soup Month at Atwater’s
Given this week’s frigid temperatures, Atwater’s soup month couldn’t have come at a better time. The fan-favorite cafe with locations scattered everywhere from Canton to Catonsville is spotlighting its soups throughout the entire month of January, with running specials including Chili Fridays and Noodle Tuesdays. The month-long promotion will also donate 10 percent of all quarts sold to Paul’s Place, a local organization that works to provide wellness services and support programs for residents of Southwest Baltimore. To close out the month, all Atwater’s locations will offer a free cup of soup to all dine-in customers on Tuesday,  January 23. Multiple locations including 3601 Boston St., 667-309-7146

NEWS

Bmore Licks: Though we happen to think that it’s never too cold for ice cream, this new Highlandtown hangout is closing up shop for the season. After a stellar first summer, management has decided to take the next few months to oversee interior renovations and test new flavors. The corner spot, which specializes in soft-serve, snowballs, and its famous ice cream nachos, is expected to reopen its doors in March. 2437 Eastern Ave.

Peter’s Inn: This cozy Fells Point dining destination suffered a tragic fire last week. The Baltimore Fire Department concluded that the blaze was ignited by a small trash fire. Thankfully, no one was hurt, but the restaurant’s interior was severely damaged. Husband-and-wife owners Karin and Bud Tiffany, who bought the space in 1995, tell us that they are in talks with their insurance company and hope for a speedy remodel in the coming weeks. 504 S. Ann St.

Chef Kiran Patnam Competing on Beat Bobby Flay: It’s always nice when the Food Network gives love to one of our own. Next week, chef Kiran Patnam of Apropoe’s inside the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront hotel will throw his hat into the ring on an episode of Beat Bobby Flay. The tournament-style competition will pit Patnam against fellow contestant Jonathan Wu to see which chef will eventually go head-to-head with Bobby Flay. Tune in on Thursday, January 11 at 10 p.m. to see if Patnam—a Culinary Academy of India grad who specializes in Indian, French, and American cuisine—can hold his own against the show’s namesake celebrity chef. 

Just when we thought the local dining scene couldn’t get any more on trend—boasting everything from sushi burritos to acai bowls—two Highlandtown locals are planning to unveil a rolled ice cream shop in the neighborhood by the end of next month.

With roots in Asia, the dessert involves freezing liquid anglaise on a cold slab at -25 degrees. The cream is then mixed with customizable flavorings, pressed flat, and scraped into rolls before landing in a cup with DIY toppings. Owner Jason Werner, a 15-year Highlandtown resident, says that he and partner Jessica Reyes were inspired by the process while visiting New York City.

“It’s a new approach to an old favorite,” says Werner. “Everybody likes ice cream, and we saw this as an opportunity to bring something new to the area that just wasn’t here. There’s something exciting about being the first on the block.”

Roll: Ice Cream Social will operate in the building that formerly housed Bolewicki’s Appliance Center on the corner of Eastern Avenue and South Bouldin Street, which Werner recently purchased. He says that the old row home is ideal, not only because of its location in his neighborhood, but also because of its 1950s soda-fountain vibe.

With the help of local designers at Carballo Architecture in Fells Point, the owners have come up with a floorplan that allows for 25 seats, with the possibility of window, bar, and bench seating. Because all of the rolled ice cream will be made to order, Werner mentions the importance of a swift service model. His goal is to have the capability for up to five slabs operating at once.

“It can take some time,” he says, adding that each order takes approximately three to five minutes to prepare. “But we want to provide an environment where people want to hang out. It’s just as much about eating ice cream as it is about watching it being made.”

Aside from the ice cream—which will be sourced with ingreditents from South Mountain Creamery in Middletown and come in classic flavors like vanilla, mint chocolate chip, and coffee—the eatery will also specialize in house-made seltzers, and high-end coffees and espressos sourced by local roasters.

Werner says that the shop also gives the owners an opportunity to explore other dessert trends, like nitrogen flash-frozen ice cream, in the future: “We’re always looking around the corner for what the next big thing will be.”

In fact, right around the corner Patterson Park shop Bmore Licks is expected to officially debut to the public by the end of this month. The can’t-miss building on the corner of Eastern and South Milton avenues boasts colorful ice cream cone and milkshake murals.

Owned by Baltimore locals Kim Proctor and Barbara Maloni, the shop features 30 ice cream flavors (including some dairy-free varieties), soft-serve options, milkshakes, snowballs, and Italian ice. Another highlight will be twists on the traditional waffle cone, like waffle cone tacos, nachos, and chocolate-layered waffle cones filled with espresso or coffee.

The idea for Bmore Licks was largely inspired by the small-town ice cream parlors that Maloni operated with her family growing up in Western Massachusetts, and the duo plans to use some of the family recipes in their new shop.

“Her idea of the food pyramid are the food groups from Elf,” Proctor quipped in an email. “We’ve always wanted to create the feeling of a local business that provides a great product and contributes to the community.”

Werner, too, is enthusiastic about becoming a staple in the neighborhood.

“I’ve lived here for 15 years, but I feel like I’ve met more people in the past couple weekends hanging out on a ladder on the side of the building,” he says with a laugh. “We’re excited to stay in the area and help it prosper.”