[Editor’s Note: After taking some time off, we are happy to resume our recurring “Open & Shut” column chronicling the latest restaurant happenings. Throughout the past few months, we’ve pivoted our weekly food coverage to tell personal stories of how chefs, restaurant owners, and industry workers are faring throughout the pandemic. Our “Without Reservation” column will continue, and as the food scene continues to press on in the wake of ever-changing dining regulations, “Open & Shut” will also run on a bi-weekly basis. We deeply appreciate your readership and hope that this column reiterates the importance of supporting Charm City’s unique array of restaurants, especially when they need it most.]

OPEN

NiHao: Perhaps the most highly anticipated local restaurant in years has officially made its debut in Canton. Culinary icon Peter Chang, along with his wife, Lisa, and daughter, Lydia, have brought on longtime friend Pichet Ong to collaborate on a menu of contemporary Chinese dishes that reflect both of the chef’s styles. Now open for carryout and delivery, NiHao—the casual Chinese greeting that evokes a sense of connection, according to the owners—offers traditional options such as a whole peking duck, shrimp dumplings, and mapo tofu. And enticing dishes unique to the restaurant include cumin lamb and corn ribs, chicken and tofu skin salad, Grand Marnier prawns in lettuce cups, and crispy bamboo catfish. Beverage director Janet Cam, formerly of Le Pavillon in Washington, D.C., has curated a list of worldly wines, Asian beers, Baiju cocktails, and craft sodas made with house-made shrubs to pair with the food. As they continue with their phased opening plan, the owners are looking forward to unveiling the revamped interior of the former Fork & Wrench space when the restaurant opens for indoor dining in the months ahead.

Lexington Market: Lexington is the latest of the Baltimore Public Markets to reopen in the midst of the coronavirus. Effective today, the market will open with proper safety measures at 50 percent capacity on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 8 a.m.-4 p.m. As shoppers return to visit their favorite vendors, developers with Seawall continue their redevelopment plans and will soon begin the vendor selection process for the revamped market set to open in 2022.

Sally O’s: Diners got a taste of this new concept from Top Chef alum Jesse Sandlin when she popped up at Mr. Nice Guy Cocktails in April. Now, the chef is ready to officially open Sally O’s on Friday, July 31. Set in the former home of The Laughing Pint in Highlandtown, the restaurant will offer an array of small plates, sandwiches, pastas, and hearty mains for carryout and outdoor dining. Dishes to look out for include crab-stuffed jalapeño poppers, a summer salad with nectarines and sweet peppers, crispy eggplant lasagna, and a buttermilk chicken sandwich with szechuan pickles. Though Sandlin is still awaiting liquor license approval, she will be featuring a few mocktails and coffee drinks from Black Acres Roastery to get started.

Until Conditions Improve: After a temporary closure a few weeks ago, the owners of The Bluebird in Hampden went back to the drawing board to think of a socially distanced pop-up concept that they hoped would be able to withstand the ever-changing dining restrictions. What they came up with is a burger-and-milkshake stand aptly named Until Conditions Improve. Starting this week, diners can order boozy amaretto milkshakes, burgers, BLT hot dogs, cornmeal-crusted fried pickles, and some of the bar’s classic cocktails for to-go or outdoor patio service.

COMING SOON

Bmore Licks: Just as they did in Canton three years ago, Bmore Licks owners Kim Proctor and Barbara Maloni have commissioned a massive, hand-painted ice cream mural on the side of their new building in Federal Hill. Locals might have noticed the artwork at 901 Light St., which will soon open as Bmore Licks’ second location. Expect the same fun flavors of homemade hard ice cream and soft serve (favorites include butter crunch, lemon ginger cookie, and Zeke’s coffee toffee) to be delivered through safely distanced takeout windows when the shop debuts later this summer. Bmore Licks adds to the growing ice cream options in the neighborhood, which recently welcomed The Charmery and will soon host Taharka Bros. inside Cross Street Market.

Bushel and a Peck Kitchen & Bar: Iron Bridge Wine Company co-owner Rob Wecker is teaming up with chef Joe Krywucki to bring this Chesapeake Bay-inspired restaurant to the former home of Food Plenty in Clarksville this September. The Maryland natives and longtime friends plan to offer a menu that shows off the bounty of the Bay, with highlights including rockfish, shrimp, and, of course, Maryland crab. Wecker, who also happens to be a master sommelier, plans to create a list of local beer, wine, and cocktails to accompany all of the dishes.

CH-CH CHANGES

Di Pasquale’s Marketplace: After more than 100 years in Highlandtown, this community staple is moving to a larger space in Brewers Hill next year. Taking over the former home of Ceriello Fine Foods on the bottom of The Porter apartment building, the Italian market will be able to grow its production and give customers more room to breathe while browsing its famous cheeses, meats, and prepared foods. In a note announcing the move on Facebook, the Di Pasquale family assured regulars that, despite moving a mile away, their hearts will always be in Highlandtown: “We may be moving some of our operations, but that does not mean we will divest our interest in the Highlandtown community that has taken care of us for over a century. We are excited to take this next step with you.”

BAKERY BULLETIN

Kitsch: Pastry chef Jacqueline Mearman, most recently of Atlas Restaurant Group, took to Instagram last week to announce plans to open her own spot near the Johns Hopkins University campus. Slated to open in October, the shop will offer egg sandwiches, a curated coffee and tea program, and some of Mearman’s signature sweets.

Ovenbird Bakery: Follow the smell of fresh-baked bread to find this new bakery in Little Italy. The handwritten list of artisan offerings rotates daily, highlighting rye, sourdough, ciabatta, and Italian loaves. There’s also house-made scones, pressed paninis, and desserts like cheesecake and Key Lime pie.

Pekara Bakery: The spirit of European pastry palace Roggenart, which shuttered in Mt. Washington months back, now lives on in Roland Park. Serbian-born owner Radomir Mihajlovic and head baker Borislav Petkovic—both of whom previously worked for Roggenart—recently celebrated the grand opening of their new spot on Coldspring Lane. Carrying over many of their recipes featured at the old spot, Pekara features pastries such as butter croissants, walnut brioche, and a classic pain au raisin.

Pie Time Baltimore: The brick-and-mortar home for this farmers market favorite is getting close to opening in Patterson Park. Neighbors have likely seen the freshly painted storefront on the corner of East Baltimore and South Ellwood streets, where owner Max Reim plans to offer his sweet and savory pies along with the strong lattes, espressos, cappuccinos, and Americanos that fans know and love from his pop-ups.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

Ongoing: Johnny’s Sunday Pop-Up Market
Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group is continuing its weekly Sunday markets in the parking lot of Johnny’s and Petit Louis Bistro in Roland Park. From 8-11 a.m., shop fresh pastas and sauces from Cinghiale, empanadas and produce from Bar Vasquez, breakfast and coffee from Johnny’s, and a selection of wines from all of the restaurant’s cellars picked by co-owner Tony Foreman. Plus, produce from local farms and artwork created by Foreman Wolf employees.

8/2: Don’t Know Community Pop-Up: Lucifero Loaves
Federal Hill’s Don’t Know Tavern is a prime example of the “a rising tide lifts all boats” mantra that has been practiced among industry workers since the shutdown. Starting this weekend, husband-and-wife owners John and Brittany Leonard are supporting fellow food businesses by hosting a different pop-up in one of their carryout windows on weekends. Kicking things off on August 2 will be artisan baker Lucifero Loaves, a regular at the Overlea and Baltimore Museum of Industry farmers markets. Be on the lookout for other purveyors including Codetta Bakeshop, Wild Berry Farm Market, and The Salad Lady scheduled to appear throughout the rest of the summer.

8/6: Takeout Thursdays With Dining Out For Life
Locals might be familiar with Dining Out For Life as the one-day-only promotion in which area restaurants donate a portion of their sales to Moveable Feast, which feeds those who are critically ill. But in the midst of COVID-19, organizers are vowing to give back to the restaurants that have supported the cause for the past 27 years. In addition to accepting individual donations through September 17, Dining Out For Life is streaming virtual concerts, seminars, and showcases on Facebook Live on Thursday evenings with the hope that diners will tune in while enjoying takeout from one of its many restaurant partners. Coming up on August 6 is a live performance by local acoustic band The Befuddlers, followed by composer Peter Dayton live from The Owl Bar, and a discussion on the future of the Black Lives Matter movement with community organizer Andre Robinson.

SHUT

Chez Hugo Bistro: It’s no secret that the coronavirus has been devastating for the local restaurant scene, and among the latest spots that have announced closures is this beloved bistro in the historic Merchants Club building downtown. French-born chef Steve Monnier and co-owner Scott Helm announced last week that they made the decision to shutter the restaurant amid the restricted dining capacity and “enormous uncertainty around when these conditions might change.” For more than two years, the cozy dining room has been a place to feast on escargot, steak frites, and Monnier’s famous multi-course tasting menus served by stellar staff.

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EAT

July 4: The Urban Oyster COVID Cook-In

The Urban Oyster. 1704 Whetstone Way. 12-5 p.m. $12-32

To celebrate the long weekend, chef/owner Jasmine Norton and her team are switching up the seafood menu at this Locust Point hotspot. In honor of Independence Day, the restaurant will serve up all-American classics like barbecue chicken, baby back ribs, and grilled lobster tails. Match your main course with a choice of two sides, including pasta salad, green beans, grilled corn, potato salad, and baked beans. Place your order online for curbside pickup to celebrate the holiday with traditional favorites.

DRINK

July 4: Annual Champagne and Fried Chicken Dinner at Chez Hugo

Chez Hugo Bistro. 206 E. Redwood St. 5-10 p.m. Prices vary.

This downtown dining destination is continuing its tradition of pairing fried chicken with Champagne—thought to be one of the world’s greatest food combos—for the holiday weekend. The French bistro, which recently resumed indoor dining with ample safety precautions, is celebrating the Fourth of July family style with half and whole fried chickens accompanied by buttery biscuits, mac and cheese, baked black-eyed peas, and slow-cooked broccoli greens. The special menu, also available for curbside carryout, includes a wide array of sparkling wines by the bottle for adults to sip while enjoying the feast.

SEE

July 4: Virtual July 4th Visionary Pets on Parade

YouTube. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Free.

Our furry friends have been providing us some extra comfort during these challenging times, so it’s time to celebrate them with one of Charm City’s favorite Fourth of July pastimes. Though neighbors won’t be gathering to watch the parade in person this year, the American Visionary Art Museum has been collecting photos of local pets in their most patriotic attire to present virtually. Tune in to the museum’s YouTube and social media channels to watch the city’s most cuddly models strut their stuff.

HEAR

July 4: Cherry Hill Arts and Music Waterfront Festival

Cherryhillfest.com. 12:30 p.m. Free.

COVID-19 can’t silence the sounds of the Cherry Hill Arts and Waterfront Music Festival. In partnership with the Youth Resiliency Institute, the Cherry Hill Community Coalition will celebrate the Black history, culture, and self-determination of its community online with this streaming benefit concert. Tune into the festival’s website to listen to a lineup of dynamic artists and consider making a donation to the relief fund, which provides Baltimore youth with culturally-relevant arts and crafts supplies and enrichment.

DO

July 5: Family Day at the Robert Long House

Robert Long House. 812 S Anne St. 2-6 p.m.

The Robert Long House is the oldest urban residence in Charm City, which makes it the perfect place for the family take in a bit of history on Independence Day weekend. Head to the Fells Point museum to take a trip back in time to the 1760s. Tour the grounds of the historical site and watch the trains travel along the model railroad. The whole family can also enjoy games, stroll through the beautiful blooming garden, and grab a free flag quiz to take with you on your journey home.

OPEN

Baby’s on Fire: The husband-and-wife owners behind Mt. Vernon’s record store cafe have taken their love of vinyl to a whole other level. After months of planning, David and Shirlé Koslowski—along with their partner, Michael Bowen, the former co-owner of the Ottobar—have opened a second location inside The Sound Garden in Fells Point. “We’re beyond ecstatic to be joining the Fells Point community and to bring them the love we’ve already been giving to Mt. Vernon,” David says. “Coffee shops and bars are all about community, and now with the opening of the Fells Point location, we have a space for that during the day and night.” Housed in the store’s old vinyl room, the cafe offers Stumptown Coffee and espresso drinks throughout the day, and craft beer and wine in the evening. After flipping through the bins, head into the cafe to read the liner notes over a pastry, sandwich, wrap, or hearty bowl of soup.

COMING SOON

The Manor: Robert Gay and Joshua Persing—the duo who previously operated G.A.Y. Lounge in the Mt. Vernon building that is now The Civil—are breathing new life into yet another one of the neighborhood’s historic spaces. In the coming months, they will transform the mansion that previously housed The Elephant, which closed for good amid drawn-out financial issues last spring, into a new dining-and-entertainment concept called The Manor. Alongside a selection of worldly cuisine, the spot will highlight EDM and house music, weekend entertainment, and routine drag brunches.

NEWS

Sally O’s: Two weeks ago, Highlandtown locals were saddened by the news that owner Shannon Cassidy would be closing beloved neighborhood hangout The Laughing Pint after 13 years. In her announcement, Cassidy assured patrons that she would be leaving the bar in “wonderful hands.” This week, it was announced that those hands belong to industry veteran Jesse Sandlin—a Top Chef alum who most recently has been heading up the kitchen at The Outpost American Tavern in Riverside. Sandlin is currently renovating the bar and hopes to reopen it as Sally O’s in February. “It’s been a dream of mine for a very long time to own my own place,” she said in a post to Facebook. “I’m happy that I’m able to do so in my home neighborhood.” Stay tuned for updates.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/21: Beaujolais Day at Chez Hugo

Head to Chez Hugo Bistro to celebrate Beaujolais Day—the third Thursday in November tradition that debuts a special red wine made with grapes from the Beaujolais region of France—with French-born chef Steve Monnier. Throughout the evening, diners will enjoy complimentary glasses of the early vintage release of Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux’s Beaujolais Nouveau. Plus, other selections from the fifth-generation grower will be served, and there will also be bottles for sale for guests who wish to add to their own cellars at home.

11/24: Vegan Thanksgiving Pop-Up
Join vegan vlogger Antonio Simpson, more fondly known as The Vegan Mechanic, at this Thanksgiving pop-up that will be 100-percent vegan friendly. Head to The Greener Kitchen in Pigtown for meatless spins on classic smoked ham, deep-fried turkey, and baked macaroni and cheese. The $20 feast also includes Old Bay cajun green beans, garlic mashed potatoes, and fried Caribbean cabbage.

SHUT

Il Palio: This pizza-and-pasta spot inside the Foundry Row development in Owings Mills has closed its doors for good. A sign posted to the front door last week indicated that the restaurant’s final night of service was Thursday, November 14. “To the loyal customers we have proudly served, we thank you for your patronage, but regret to inform you that we are closing Il Palio,” wrote Kevin Gudejko, director of operations for restaurant group Mainstreet Ventures. Since opening in June 2018, the dining destination became known for its rustic Italian fare including Neapolitan pizzas, bountiful chopped salads, and tableside fettuccini alfredo tossed in wheel of imported parmigiano reggiano.

Showcasing everything from French and Italian eats to Afghani and Senagalese fare, Baltimore is a hub for authentic foreign cuisines. This year’s Summer Restaurant Week gives you the chance to try something new for a bargain, in your own backyard.

The around-the-world theme has invaded the food and drink scene (even inspiring local bar crawls with drinks inspired by different countries), and now, you can feel well-traveled even if you’ve never left Maryland.

“Restaurant Week gives ethnic restaurants an avenue to show the cuisine of the motherland in front of an audience that may be reluctant to try something unfamiliar,” says Miguel Angel Sanz, co-owner of longtime Spanish fixture Tio Pepe’s. “They may find out that what they thought was strange is not particularly so, and that such a restaurant may be perfectly appropriate for a birthday or an anniversary.”

For this summer’s annual dining-out promotion—returning August 2-11—diners are invited to enjoy two-course brunch and lunch menus ranging from $12-20, and three-course dinner menus ranging from $20-$35. If you’re hoping to get a taste of international cuisine while saving money on plane tickets, here are a few highlights worth exploring.

Italian: Sotto Sopra Restaurant
This Mt. Vernon mainstay is an ideal place to experience Italian cuisine like you are in the heart of Rome. Housed in a 19th-century building on North Charles Street since 1996, the spot will offer a two-course lunch for $15 or a three-course dinner for $35 with valet parking available for an additional $10. Your choices seem almost limitless, with snail ragout, pappardelle with smoked mozzarella, a watermelon caprese salad, and frutti di mare headlining the menu. Top your dinner off with one of six dessert options to complete your journey to Italy. $15-35

American: The Alexander Brown Restaurant
Pursuing the American dream, Alexander Brown emigrated from Ireland to Baltimore in the late 1700s. His family established themselves in the city and even funded the Baltimore-Ohio Railroad, as well as Baltimore’s first public water system. Become a part of their legacy by indulging in a fine dining experience, within a breathtaking Baltimore landmark. For Restaurant Week, it offers a two-course lunch featuring crab beignets and fried chicken sandwich. $20

French: Chez Hugo Bistro
This addition to the restaurant scene has held a special place in our hearts since opening around Valentine’s Day in 2018. Guests can expect a casual French bistro atmosphere, perfect for enjoying a pleasant meal with great company. For Restaurant Week, you’ll find an authentic, three-course French dinner with options such as niçoise salade, grilled monkfish, and banane et chocolat. $35

Japanese: Matsuri Japanese Restaurant
Get a taste of Japan with Matsuri’s three-course lunch or dinner. Open in Federal Hill since 1996, the restaurant is owner Bill Tien’s homage to Japanese cuisine in Baltimore. The award-winning spot will serve traditional dishes like miso soup, spicy tuna rolls, and Japanese mochi ice cream. $15-30

Afgani: The Helmand
The Helmand has not only helped introduce Afghani cuisine to Baltimore, but also nationwide. The restaurant was named after the owner’s first born son, as well as the famed Helmand River that runs through the predominantly dry country of Afghanistan. First established in 1989, it is celebrating 20 years by featuring Restaurant Week dishes such as kabobs, simmered lamb, and naan. $35

Greek: The Black Olive
The fine-dining fish tavern in Fells Point transports you to Northern Greece. Make no mistake, the prices are low, but the atmosphere is elevated. Take part in a fancy date and enjoy either a three-course lunch or dinner for $20-35. The menu offers a variety of Greek classics such as Mediterranean sea bass, heirloom tomato salad, and grilled sardines in grape leaves. $20-35

Spanish: Tio Pepe’s
With a complete menu of fine Spanish cuisine and an extensive wine list, Tio Pepe’s is a great option for date night or family celebrations. If you’ve never had Spanish or Mediterranean food, you’re in for a treat with a two-course lunch or three-course dinner. Try traditional dishes such as paella a la valenciana, gazpacho a la andaluza, and flan al caramelo. $15-35

Mexican: La Calle
La Calle, which translates to “the street” in Spanish, mixes deep-rooted Mexican traditions with modern culinary fundamentals. The masa, as well as the sauces that use local Maryland and indigenous Mexican ingredients, are all made in an open-style Baltimore kitchen. Choose between a $15 three-course lunch or a $35 three-course dinner that comes with a complimentary margarita. Some of the options featured include tacos, torta de pollo, and a Pipian Verde dish of pork loin and rice. $15-35

COMING SOON

Döner Brös: Less than a year after launching this Oktoberfest-inspired food truck, owners Alex Politsch and Steven Banks are taking the concept to the next level by opening a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Charles Village this September. Known for its salads, fries, and wraps made with seasoned meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie, Döner Brös will join THB Bagels & Deli, Bird in Hand, and the recently debuted Red Star Bar & Grill in the Nine East 33rd development near the Johns Hopkins University campus. “Johns Hopkins University was always a home run for the food truck so it was only natural for us to open our first store here,” Banks said in a statement. “We are excited to add another unique cultural option to the already eclectic and dynamic neighborhood.” 9 E. 33rd St.

Bodhi Corner: Adding to the revival efforts on Chestnut Avenue in Hampden (a corner grocery store is expected to open in the former Play Cafe space in September) is this new Thai restaurant from the owners of Khun Nine Thai in Mt. Vernon. Expected to open in the former home of Café Cito later this summer, the spot will feature Thai staples including rice dishes, noodles, curries, and rotating vegan and vegetarian options made with beans, tofu, and seasonal vegetables. 3500 Chestnut Ave.

OPEN

Garden Party: Now, moms and dads have even more reason to love the splash fountain in the center of The Rotunda in Hampden. While watching their little ones run through the water, they can sip wine and enjoy snacks, sandwiches, and salads from this new outdoor dining concept operated by the owners of Avenue Kitchen & Bar. Open in the freestanding shack next to the fountain, Garden Party offers a food menu including tahini hummus, edamame guacamole, meat and cheese boards, mini Cubano sandwiches, and a Mediterranean chopped salad. The wine list features sparkling, red, white, and rosé blends from Europe that are available by the glass or bottle. 711 W. 40th St.

NEWS

101 Deli Bar: There is new blood in the kitchen at 101 Deli Bar in Federal Hill. Chef Brian Mahon, formerly of Wine Market Bistro and The Nickel Taphouse, has revamped the menu to include entrees such as Cajun shrimp and biscuits, PEI mussels, crab cakes with corn salsa, meatballs with ricotta and toast points, and a refreshing watermelon poke bowl topped with a yuzu glaze. Though Mahon has made a few additions, the menu still offers the spot’s mix-and-match charcuterie boards, signature cocktails, wines on tap, and boozy milkshakes. 1118 S. Charles St., 443-682-9480

Argosy Cafe: After three years at its current home inside the Munsey Building downtown, this popular breakfast and lunch spot will move into new digs later this month—but it isn’t going far. Argosy’s last day on North Calvert Street will be Sunday, July 15, and it is slated to reopen in the former home of New America Diner on North Eutaw Street at the end of August. Throughout its short-but-sweet run, New America became a go-to for greasy spoon favorites, community events, and local music showcases. Owner Fiona Sergeant recently told The Sun that running the restaurant took up more time and energy than she expected. Though the diner has now closed, she is working with the Argosy team to help keep the spirit of New America alive. “It’s been beautiful,” Sergeant posted to Facebook. “You have all been lovely.” 429 N. Eutaw St.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/6: Champagne & Fried Chicken Night at Chez Hugo

Though it might not seem like the ideal combo, champagne and fried chicken go hand-in-hand in the summer. As Southern Living puts it: “The effervescent acidity works as the ultimate grease cutter, keeping your palate crisp and clean as you chow through the salty deliciousness.” Chez Hugo Bistro is playing up the pairing this Friday night with an a la carte menu of fried chicken and sides, as well as discounted bottles of bubbly all evening long. 206 E. Redwood St. 5-9 p.m. 443-438-3002

ONGOING: Crabs and Crushes at Wit On The Water
Earlier this week, Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore brought back its annual crab feast menu featuring summer staples like steamed blue crabs, peel-and-eat shrimp, Old Bay fries, and mac and cheese. Offered daily from noon to 10 p.m. on the restaurant’s outdoor patio, the menu also highlights buckets of beer, wines by the glass or bottle, and the signature Wit & Wisdom Crush (Tito’s vodka, grapefruit or orange juice, Campari, maple syrup, and club soda) to help wash down all of the eats. 200 International Drive. 410-576-5800

SHUT

BAMF Cafe: The Station North community is already feeling the loss of this quirky cafe, which will operate through Artscape weekend and close its doors for good on July 23. “We want to thank the Station North community for its support and friendship,” owner Nicholas Springham wrote in a Facebook announcement earlier this week. “It has been a unique experience that we will cherish forever. With heartfelt gratitude, we wish our customers, neighbors, and employees the best in the future.” Throughout its three-year run, the sci-fi-themed hangout was known for its comic book club meetings, vegan and vegetarian dishes, and drinks named after popular superheroes. There’s no word yet on what will become of the North Charles Street space. 1821 N. Charles St., 667-930-3371

On an early spring evening, Steve Monnier inspects a plate of poulet roit au foin—whole chicken roasted in hay and glazed with honey-brandy sauce—while a pastry chef at the pass pipes cream in between fine layers of puff pastry to build a Napoleon, and a line cook oversees the asador, where quail gets grilled above the sparkling embers of the wood fire. 

This is the scene at Chez Hugo Bistro, Monnier’s downtown dining follow-up to Hampden’s Arômes, where the focus was solely a pre-fixe tasting menu. In a sea of sameness, it was a unique restaurant concept at the time, but not everyone in Baltimore was ready for a menu in which the chef did all the deciding. So Monnier heard the people’s cri de coeur and closed his boîte at the end of last year to work on this new concept. If my first few visits are any indication, it was a bonne idée, indeed.

At Hugo, Monnier is cooking not only what he wants to cook, but also what others expect of traditional French bistro food. For daring foodies, there’s still a tasting menu (six to 10 courses for $85/per person), but Hugo’s main menu features a greatest hits of French-country cuisine—from pâte en croute to coq au vin and moules frites. And unlike the sometimes experimental Arômes, which often highlighted avant-garde ingredients such as lime ash and dehydrated scallops, the fare, although still fanciful (to wit, beets with wild rose vinaigrette and sour plums), needs little to no translation.

Also, while Arômes’ environs were the cramped quarters of a Hampden row house, Hugo—named for Monnier’s 4-year-old son and on the site of the former Baltimore International College—has no such issues. Inside this historic building (originally a Methodist Episcopal Church, long before becoming the local culinary arts college), there’s a roomy bar for sipping an effervescent French 75 and a tony dining room with tufted, mustard-colored banquettes, cabaret chairs, French blue walls, mosaic tile floors, and original carved wood moldings. (Think Bordeaux meets Baltimore.)

Monnier, who hails from Reims in the Champagne region of France and worked in the kitchens of several Michelin-starred spots (Le Carré des Feuillants, Le Laurent, Taillevent), is able to showcase his culinary talents here. Of course, many fine-dining chefs have been classically trained in the Escoffier school of cooking, but there’s something about having an actual French chef at the helm that creates a kind of culinary verité.

While our trips to the table were beset by some minor missteps (on one outing, ours was among the first tables seated on a Saturday night, and already the kitchen was out of whole chickens), there were remarkably few for a restaurant in its first semester. On our dinner visits, servers were relaxed and gave good recommendations, including one for the soupe à l’oignon et son toast with sweet charred onions and croutons nestled under a cap of melted gruyère and a beef broth that takes two days to prepare. There was also a ringing endorsement for a simple salad of grilled carrots tossed with tangy grapefruit sections, fennel, and frisée. The citrus of the grapefruit offset the natural sweetness of the charred carrots, and the fennel added a nice crunch. 

On our first visit, the most outstanding entrée was the beef bourguignon, a masterpiece in composition with thick hunks of braised beef short rib on a plate punctuated by carrots, pearl onions, button mushrooms, and two thick slices of bread for mopping up the Bordelaise sauce. It was rich and comforting and a paragon of French home-style cooking. 

There are also nightly specials, including a lobster salad special for two. The $70 price tag was a bit steep, but the portion was large, and the preparation, employing brown butter and curry and placed on a bed of frisée along with a Japanese sweet potato, beautifully showcased the shellfish.    

But the pièce de résistance, and the reason for our return visit, was the aforementioned roasted chicken for two. It has long been said that the true test of a chef is his or her chicken. Nowhere is this truer than at Hugo, where a pasture-raised whole bird is roasted at high heat, then deglazed with white wine, cream and chicken stock. As we waited the requisite 45 minutes it took to prepare, the anticipation, and hunger, mounted. And when a fleet of servers arrived with the fragrant and flavorful chicken neatly sliced in a skillet and served alongside roasted broccoli and potatoes—plus au jus on the side to amp up the succulence and a small salad verte on the side—we ate with abandon.  

Though you’re likely to feel sated even without dessert, remember The French Diet (red wine, butter, chocolate). Consider the macaron au chocolat with chocolate ganache or the crème brûlée with its professionally caramelized crust and just the right level of vanilla swirled into buttercup yellow custard. The Paris-Brest, a donut doppelganger made with choux pastry and filled with praline cream, is equally divine. For next time—and there will be a next time—our sights are set on that Napoleon.

CHEZ HUGO BISTRO: 206 E. Redwood St., 443-438-3002. HOURS: Mon. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tues. Thurs. 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-9:30 p.m.; Fri. 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-10 p.m. Sat. 5-10 p.m. PRICES: appetizers: $7-25; entrees: $23-32, plates for two: $50-75. AMBIANCE: French bistro.