In Highlandtown, veteran neighborhood bar Carlos O’Charlies has become a hub for game-day watch parties, live DJ nights, and El Salvadoran eats. As the Eastern Avenue staple approaches its 15-year anniversary on July 4, owner Carlos Cruz is ready to expand his footprint into Fells Point.

Early next month, the chef will open Chilango’s Tequila Bar & Grill in space that formerly housed Modern Cook Shop on the ground floor of the Union Wharf apartment complex on South Wolfe street.

“I’m not new in the area, I’m just moving a little farther down,” Cruz says with a laugh. “I still want to work with the neighborhood and keep my prices affordable, but it will be great to do something fresh.”

While Carlos O’Charlies is more of an ode to Cruz’s roots in El Salvador, he says that Chilango’s will be an opportunity to focus more on Mexican-American recipes—some of which he has been perfecting for nearly 40 years.

“Mexican food and Central American food are similar,” he says. “We all use corn, rice, and beans, but the difference is Mexican food is more spicy. In Central America, we do spicy food, but the hot sauce is mostly on the outside.”

The kitchen will bring the heat in classics like tacos, fajitas, enchiladas, chimichangas, burritos, and quesadillas. To pair with all of the dishes, Chilango’s will feature a cocktail program that uses top-notch tequilas from Mexico and Central America. Currently, Cruz is experimenting with margarita varieties like cucumber, mango, and even an avocado flavor.

Mexican influences will also translate to the 140-seat interior. The restaurant has been transformed from a sleek and modern cafe into a cantina with touches of iron and wood, as well as sombrero decor and Mexican artwork. Cruz has also opened up the layout (the space previously housed a grocery area selling produce and pantry items up front) so that more tables can be stationed near the floor-to-ceiling windows.

“We changed a lot,” he says, mentioning other perks like outdoor seating and valet parking for patrons coming to visit from other neighborhoods. “Sometimes people don’t want to have to park blocks away and then walk to find a place to eat, so I’m hoping that will really help us.”

Pending liquor board approval, Cruz hopes to host a grand opening on July 8. In addition to lunch and dinner service, he plans to offer happy hour specials and eventually roll out brunch on the weekends. Though his two spots will differ in concept, he wants Chilango’s to become a neighborhood gathering spot—just as Carlos O’Charlies has been for 15 years.

“I met with the Fells Point Community Association to introduce myself about two weeks ago, and everyone really welcomed me,” he says. “It feels great. Baltimore is a beautiful city with great people—it has it all.”

OPEN

The Red Boat Viet Fusion Restaurant: This Vietnamese-fusion spot is in the midst of a major expansion. The Eutaw Street eatery has plans to open two new locations in College Park and Boca Raton, Florida next year, and it recently debuted a second Charm City cafe in Mt. Vernon. The North Charles Street spot officially opened its doors last week, serving The Red Boat’s signature spring rolls, tacos, and banh mi sandwiches. The Mt. Vernon iteration will also feature a full bar, and kimchi fries with DIY toppings like bulgogi beef, lemongrass chicken, fried eggs, and toasted seaweed. 334 N. Charles St., 443-885-9162

Jazz + Soju: Adding to the city’s Asian-fusion options is this new Korean restaurant inside the Anthem House apartment complex in Locust Point. Now in soft opening mode, the spot will offer dinner service for the next two weeks and begin to serve lunch when it officially cuts the ribbon later this month. As its name implies, the artsy hangout combines live jazz music with a selection of soju—a Korean iteration of vodka. The food menu showcases traditional twice-fried chicken, as well as bulgogi burger sliders, kimchi fries, and garlic fried rice. 900 E. Fort Ave., 410-244-8600

NEWS

Charles Village Pub: This beloved Charles Village dive—best known for its affordable drinks and relaxed atmosphere—suffered a grease fire earlier this week. Luckily, no one was hurt. But the bar will be closed indefinitely as management oversees cleanup efforts and necessary repairs. In the meantime, neighbors have started a crowdfunding campaign to aid CVP employees while they are out of work. The GoFundMe has seen an overwhelming outpouring of support, raising $3,985 of its $5,000 goal in only two days. Stay tuned for updates. 3107 St. Paul St.

COMING SOON

Ceremony Coffee Opening at Cross Street Market: Ceremony Coffee Roasters has become a local go-to for craft coffees and Instagram-worthy eats since it opened in Mt. Vernon two years ago. The Annapolis-based shop later expanded with a second Baltimore location at Harbor Point, and now, it’s planning to unveil a stall at Cross Street Market in Federal Hill—which is currently in the midst of a major overhaul. The market’s renovations are being done in phases, and Ceremony will be located in the portion closest to Light Street that is expected to be finished first. Be on the lookout for seasonal java drinks, granola bowls, and breakfast sandwiches when the stall debuts this fall. 1065 S. Charles St.

The Hoof Cafe: Speaking of coffee shops in South Baltimore, this new spot is preparing to open its doors in Locust Point this spring. A partnership between neighborhood locals Rebecca Friedman and Jason Schiavone, the community hub will offer local Pfefferkorn’s Coffee, bagels, pastries, oatmeal, and other cafe fare. Friedman recently told SouthBMore.com that she is targeting an opening later this month. 1648 E. Fort Ave. 443-961-1039.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/5: Brunchin’ for a Benefit at La Food Marketa
Chef Chad Gauss is putting a charitable twist on his Cinco de Mayo celebrations at La Food Marketa in Pikesville this weekend. A portion of all brunch proceeds on Saturday, May 5 will be donated to Alzheimer’s Association of Greater Maryland’s upcoming Walk to End Alzheimer’s. Featured brunch plates include Mexican chocolate pancakes, steak omelettes, and Gauss’ take on a classic croque madame with ham, cheese, flour tortillas, and white enchilada sauce. 2620 Quarry Lake Drive, 410-415-0606

5/3-6: Phub’s Pop-Up at R. House
R. House is kicking off Asian Pacific American Heritage Month with a pop-up from Phub’s—a Hanover-based Vietnamese restaurant that specializes in bowls of pho and banh mi subs. Throughout the weekend, the shop will be serving up dishes like fried spring rolls, barbecue pork sandwiches, vegan pho bowls, and organic salads topped with citrus sesame chicken. 301 W. 29th St., 11:30 a.m.- 9 p.m.

SHUT

Corner Charcuterie Bar: Owner Bernard Dehaene has officially closed this small plates staple on the Avenue in Hampden. He took to Facebook to announce the closure earlier this week. “Due to my deteriorating health, I have decided that today will be my last day opening Corner,” he posted Monday. “I need the time to prepare for knee, hip, and back surgery, as well as mind, body, and health.” Dehaene—who opened the business in 2011 and expanded it to include the property next door two years later—goes on to thank his customers, describing the experience as “one hell of a rollercoaster ride not to be forgotten.” 850 W. 36th St.

Modern Cook Shop: In Fells Point, this all-day eatery will also be shutting its doors this week. “Over the past few months, we’ve worked hard to roll out pop-up dinner concepts and new seasonal menu offerings each week, and we’ve seen some traction in patronage,” owners Andy Gruver and Jason Sanchez wrote in an announcement on Facebook. “Unfortunately, the clock has run out though. The costs of operating such an ambitious concept from morning to midnight, along with declining visitation to Baltimore and Fells Point has left costs far outweighing revenues.” The restaurant’s final night of service will be Saturday, May 5. No word yet on what will become of the space, which is equipped Gruver’s handmade designs of light woods, industrial shelves, and furniture. 901 S. Wolfe St.

From his former steampunk dive bar Fork & Wrench in Canton (which is closed and up for auction) to his eye-catching mixed-used space Modern Cook Shop in Fells Point, restaurateur Andy Gruver is known not only for owning cool spaces but designing them, too.

In fact, these days the talented artist-restaurateur is spending more and more time in the basement of his studio at Natty Boh Tower, where he builds up business for Gruver Design, his eponymous company. “I’m pretty handy,” Gruver says. “It doesn’t take much for me to pick something up.”

How did you become interested in design?

Growing up, I was always interested in art and design. I was born in Holland, and my uncle over there is an artist. Growing up, we’d travel back there a lot and it spiked my interest.

What kind of inspiration did Holland provide?

Holland was a second home. We’d visit Heerlen, which was a five-minute walk from Germany, every few months. That’s where I picked up a lot of the feeling of what I do. Living over there is so different than the U.S. If you go to a coffee shop, chances are, the mug was handmade. I’d visit family there and all the paintings on the walls were ones they did themselves. My uncle also did a lot of woodwork and sculpture.

Did you ever study art more formally?
I was accepted to the Corcoran College of Art and Design in D.C. and went for a brief period, but I left to be in a rock and roll band, so it didn’t work exactly out. But it’s a lifelong endeavor. With everything I do, I try to have some design sense or some artistic aspect around it.

What mediums do you work in?
I’ve done all kinds of things since I got into the restaurant business, whether doing interior design for my restaurants or making actual furniture. I paint and sculpt. At Modern Cook Shop, I made all of the tables and chairs. At Fork & Wrench, I came up with the interior design and built everything from scratch. I work in metal and wood and glass. I’m going to get into making custom lighting. If I had a kiln, I’d make pottery.

I know you’ve talked about doing design work for other clients. How’s that going?
It seems like there’s really a need for it—and I’m putting my name out there. I have a number of residential and commercial projects including one with [Clavel’s] Lane Harlan. I built an Art Deco-style speakeasy bar for Westminster American insurance company in Owings Mills. Now the owner wants me to build a bar in the basement of his new home. I also did a custom-etched mirror with his logo. I want to pursue this as a more serious aspect of what we do and am working on a website.

With fewer patrons visiting city restaurants, what has it been like for you to try to run Modern Cook Shop?
We bootstrapped Modern Cook Shop using Fork & Wrench money and that was pretty difficult. It’s a sign of the times. Baltimore is more difficult right now, but it won’t be long before things are back to normal. Nothing is set in stone yet, but I definitely want to focus on the design work.

You opened one of Baltimore’s first gastopubs with Fork & Wrench and then gave us Modern Cook Shop, an entirely new concept for the city with a marketplace inside the restaurant. What else do you wish Baltimore had that it doesn’t?
We’re on the water and we don’t have a lot of great seafood. You don’t find these really authentic restaurants and that doesn’t make sense to me. I’d like to see more of those.

How have you seen the food scene change here?
I’ve been in Baltimore going on 15 years. There have always been a couple of gems like Peter’s Inn that inspired me to do Fork & Wrench. Baltimore is growing—it’s on the verge of exploding. But had we not had the unrest that we had a few years back, things would look different today.

As Baltimoreans become more sophisticated in their culinary tastes, does it make it harder to survive as a restaurant?
Restaurants have to try harder, and that’s a good thing.  

So, what’s the ultimate dream for you career-wise?

I will always open restaurants, but I’m really enjoying the design work, and this is where I’ll be focusing my attention. There’s a design firm in Brooklyn called AvroKO that inspires me. I like their philosophy. When I’m doing design work, I come in and get to know someone whether it’s a restaurant I’m designing or a residential project. They show me a few ideas and I come up with the design. I’m fond of antiques that have been done well, though something new is perfectly nice, too. In a perfect world, I would have time to build cool, heirloom furniture and then be known for design and install in great restaurants. That’s who I want to be. In a weird way, it’s all been leading up to this.

What is it about eating outside that seems to make food taste better? Maybe it’s the sunshine, or the breath of fresh air. Perhaps it’s the touch of cool grass beneath our feet, or the primal smell of grill marks on a well-seared steak. All we know is, we don’t need an excuse to pack a picnic. Whether it’s an extra-long lunch break or the start of the weekend, in the rolling countryside or right here in the city, fill a basket with these Maryland-made treats, spread out a blanket, and dig in.

Cunningham’s Baguette: Think of the baguette as the foundation for every picnic. Tear it in half and commence the feast. The Wine Source, 3601 Elm St.

Parts & Labor Charcuterie: The house-cured coppa, aged pork loin, and spicy bologna salami from this Remington butcher shop are musts for warm-weather spreads. Parts & Labor, 2600 N. Howard St.

FireFly Farms Black & Blue: Handmade in the mountains of Garrett County, this goat’s milk marvel delivers a welcome bite of blue funk. Whole Foods, 1001 Fleet St.

Hawks Hill Creamery Chesapeake Cheddar: This Old Bay-infused cheddar imparts a smoky flavor to snack on all summer long. Graul’s Market, 7713 Bellona Ave., Towson

Cherry Glen Goat Cheese: The popular MoCo cheesemonger makes a variety of piquant products, but the Monocacy Ash is its crème de la crème. Graul’s Market, 7713 Bellona Ave., Towson

Waxing Kara Honey: A drizzle of this harvested honey tempers even the spiciest of charcuterie. Honey House, 10209 Grand Central Ave., Owings Mills

McCutcheon’s Cherry Preserves: Use this old-fashioned chunky cherry spread as a tart topper for any type of cheese. Eddie’s of Roland Park, 5113 Roland Ave.

Hex Ferments Beet Pickles: With a hint of ginger, these briny beets provide the tangy crunch you never knew you needed. Hex Ferments, 529 E. Belvedere Ave.

Kinderhook Snacks: Whether you’re indulging in bite-size baked cheese stamps or spice-speckled smoked nuts, one handful of Kinderhook will never suffice. Trohv, 921 W. 36th St.

Manor Hill Brewing Grisette: This farmhouse ale out of Ellicott City is
like the love child of wheat beer and
dry white wine. Remington Wine Company, 329 W. 29th St.

Atwater’s Local Rye Crackers: These buttery crisps are great on their own but also ideal for all forms of scooping and spreading. 798 Kenilworth Dr., Towson

Trinacria Foods Olives: At this overflowing olive bar, make your own mix of purple, green, and even garlic-covered goodies. Trinacria Foods, 406 N. Paca St. 

Modern Cook Shop Pickles: Ask for a pint of special housemade pickles, like these addictive bread-and-butter chips. Modern Cook Shop, 901 S. Wolfe St.

Rooster & Hen Produce: Round out your basket with juicy local apples. Rooster + Hen, 2302 Frederick Road, Catonsville

While the duo originally planned to open a local bakery similar to
their now-closed Brooklyn flagship, they were forced to put those plans
on hold last year. In the meantime, Robicelli has gotten to work
familiarizing himself with the local restaurant scene, most recently
serving as executive chef at Trinacria Cafe in Mt. Vernon.

Earlier
this month, he was brought on to fine-tune the kitchen operations at
Modern Cook Shop, the market-and-restaurant hybrid that opened on South
Wolfe Street in Fells Point last year.

The space, operated by
Fork & Wrench owners Andy Gruver and Jason Sanchez, features
traditional seating, as well as lounge areas, counter service, and a
market up front with local produce and prepared foods to go.

Robicelli
says that the unique setup was part of what drew him to the position:
“It’s basically the restaurant version of create-your-own stories,” he
says.

In his new role, the chef is excited to streamline the
pastry program (think vegan brownies and a pound cake made with
grapefruit bitters), introduce a line of house-pressed juices, expand
catering operations, and present an all-day menu with dinner specials
that rotate based on what’s in season.

Robicelli plans to offer
global dishes inspired by the cultural diversity of his childhood
neighborhood of Bay Ridge, a borough in Brooklyn.

“That’s how I
grew up,” he says. “My neighborhood was mostly Italian and Irish, but
we had kids that were Spanish and Puerto Rican. My best friend was
Guyanese. We went to people’s houses for dinner and had food from around
the world.”

Changes are expected to begin taking shape in the
coming weeks. As the process gets underway, Robicelli is enthusiastic
about connecting with customers to gauge feedback.

“We’re
looking at every aspect of the restaurant to see what works and what
doesn’t,” he says. “We just want people to have a great experience every
time they come in.”

It’s Saturday night at Modern Cook Shop and the place, like much of Fells Point after dark, is a swirl of activity. At the back-of-the-house bar, barrel-aged cocktails and craft beers are flowing for a group of raucous revelers, while, across the 120-seat space, a barista brews lattes for the coffee crowd.

Meanwhile, in the open cooking area, chef Michael Gliniecki (formerly of Waterfront Kitchen and The Fork & Wrench) sears salmon as kitchen-theater devotees watch appreciatively from their Italian-leather barstools. Lastly, in the center of this culinary circus of sorts, more committed diners sit at wooden tables while feasting on house charcuterie and pan-seared salmon with turnips.

As patrons wander in—from a couple navigating their double stroller around the perimeter, which is well-stocked with small-batch pantry items (bee pollen, organic oatmeal, hot sauce), to locals stopping by the newsstand area to page through the newspapers on hand—it’s clear that this spot typifies the something-for-everyone restaurant trend springing up in urban markets.

As the name suggests, Modern Cook Shop, in the Union Wharf building at the corner of Wolfe and Thames Streets, is very much a model of modernity, a multi-use space that caters to every customer.

Co-owners Andy Gruver and Jason Sanchez, the duo behind boutique “dive bar” The Fork & Wrench, are known for their creative concepts. This one was inspired by New York City’s corner-store bodegas, an ubiquitous part of Big Apple life.

The duo’s unique, of-the-moment concept is in full force here, from the repurposed Ponderosa Pine and California Redwood furniture that Gruver built with his own hands (and plans to sell at the shop in the future) to the concisely curated, seasonal menu with a strong slant toward vegetables.

The dinner menu is divided into three sections: plates to share, main plates, and small plates. On our visit, appetizers included a prettily presented dish of whole baby roasted carrots with peas, parsley, and a carrot purée kissed with cumin.

Our grazing continued with a plate of aptly named Simple Greens from Urban Pastoral Farm. With greens this good, no dressing was needed. This particular presentation—a creatively chaotic pile of farm-fresh greens, multi-colored carrot curls, tomato, radish, and rapini, with a buttermilk pool at the bottom—seemed straight out of Mr. McGregor’s garden. A milky burrata paired with heirloom tomatoes, basil, and several slices of toasted focaccia was also a winning way to begin the meal.

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Pimento Cheese
On most menus, the pimento cheese appetizer is a blip, a bite, a way to bide time before the main meal. But this rendition, with pickled chilies and crisp house-made nigella seed crackers, is a stirring starter and festive way to kick off your meal.

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For our entrees, we sampled both surf (cioppino and rockfish) and turf (steak.) The seafood stew featured a heap of scallops, clams, and mussels in a tomato broth tinged with garlic and herbs, and it was accompanied by several slabs of crusty toast. The composition was flavorful and light—perfect for a sticky summer’s night, though the broth could have been boosted with additional garlic. The just-caught rockfish, commingled with a mélange of succotash-style corn, fava beans, and tomatoes, added tremendous flavor to the otherwise mild meat.

For those with a heartier appetite, I highly recommend the strip loin steak. While not necessarily novel, it was dense and delicious with a minerality that was grounded by potatoes, browned Brussels sprouts, and caramelized candy onions.

Worth noting: For those who don’t mind dining alone, Modern Cook Shop is the ideal spot to fly solo. On a midday visit, I parked myself at the coffee counter and dug into a grain salad—a hearty and healthy, seeming bottomless wheat-belly-be-gone bowl of quinoa, wild rice, farro, arugula, and red onions topped with goat cheese. In the course of the hour, several others joined the singles scene.

If you don’t want to eat in at all, take inspiration from the menu, browse the market area, and re-create the experience at home. Chef Gliniecki will happily share his secrets. And Gruver will be more than happy to sell you a stool.

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MODERN COOK SHOP 901 S. Wolfe St., 443-627-8032.
HOURS Daily 7 a.m.-2 a.m. CUISINE Seasonal American
PRICES Shareable plates: $2-14; small plates: $8-14; entrees: $14-29
ATMOSPHERE Bodega chic.