A few-days-old fertilized oyster larva is no bigger than a speck of dust. But under a high-powered microscope, a fully formed mollusk is visible, complete with a teeny tiny shell and miniscule “foot” that, when ready, will attach itself to the oyster’s forever home.

In the wild, oyster larvae are vulnerable to the countless whims of Mother Nature. But raise them in a man-made hatchery, with the right balance of temperature, water quality, and a gourmet diet of algae, and they will grow into tiny “seed” oysters.

Like a farmer purchasing soybean seeds for planting, healthy larvae and seed oysters are vital for watermen and aquaculturists who will plant them in the Chesapeake Bay, where they’ll be raised to fulfill their destiny on plates across America. On their way to beds of crushed ice or to be fried and tucked into po’ boy rolls, these tiny oysters will play an outsized role in water quality, habitat creation, and economic development.

For many seed oysters in the state of Maryland, that journey now begins at Ferry Cove Shellfish. It is the state’s newest, most state-of-the-art private hatchery—the only one in Maryland operating as a nonprofit. And it is poised to have a major impact on the region’s shellfish aquaculture, the process of farm-raising seafood.

In 2025, it successfully produced two billion oyster larvae from its location in the hamlet of Sherwood near St. Michaels, where the waters of Eastern Bay flow into Poplar Island Narrows. Ferry Cove’s building is nestled between a wildflower meadow and a veritable forest of native grasses, which president and CEO Stephan Abel’s dog, Petey, happily disappears into when given half a chance.

The water flowing around Poplar Island was part of the appeal of this spot, says Abel, who lives in Annapolis. He had access to 20 years’ worth of Army Corps of Engineers data from their restoration of nearby Poplar Island.

“So I knew what the water was here,” he says. Like good soil for plants, “having the right water is paramount.”

The fact that a 70-acre parcel was available there—and close enough to sizeable towns like Easton to entice a strong workforce—sealed the deal.

Much of the acreage is leased to a local crop farmer, but there’s also a weather station installed in partnership with the University of Maryland (UMD), a sea-level rise monitoring system, and an ongoing shoreline restoration project. Tanks and cages near the waterline are evidence of a facility used by the Maryland Seafood Cooperative, which supports watermen new to aquaculture.

These projects aren’t just about environmental altruism. Weather, water temperature, rising tides—it all impacts the oysters. The health of these bivalves often corresponds with the health of the Bay, and vice versa.

“We are the applied science,” says Abel. “We come at it from the industry perspective—the aquaculturist’s or waterman’s perspective—listening to what they need, working with researchers, and then developing products.”

Abel is an unlikely aquaculturist. A Philadelphia native, he grew up sailing every summer on the Chesapeake. But the extent of his oyster knowledge was that they taste good served with a wedge of lemon.

He began his career in the military, moved to the dot-com glamour of the late ’90s, then, after the boom, landed a job at the Maryland Department of Natural Resources (DNR). From there, he went to the Oyster Recovery Partnership (ORP), where he served as executive director for 13 years.

His tenure corresponded with the state’s creation of an Oyster Advisory Commission tasked with developing a road map for restoring the native oyster. Years of over-fishing, habitat degradation, and disease reduced Maryland’s annual oyster haul from one to three million bushels in the mid-20th century to a few hundred thousand today. The plan included money to train watermen in aquaculture; Abel worked on those training programs at ORP.

The benefit of aquaculture is that wild fisheries are open October through March. But farmed oysters are available year-round. Problem was, even as aquaculture was being promoted, there was a seed shortage. There are a handful of small, private hatcheries in Maryland, but most larvae come from the UMD Center for Environmental Science’s Horn Point Oyster Hatchery. As a state entity, it was producing most of its larvae for Bay restoration projects, with only a small amount for commercial use.

Abel saw a need in the market for consistent, reliable access to seed.

“I also saw that the future of shellfish restoration is limited, because government money can only go so far,” he says. “My mind shifted from bulk restoration to ‘how do we get more oysters in the Bay that not only benefit the Bay, but also benefit the local economies and local industry?’ And that’s aquaculture.”

The hatchery opened in 2021, thanks in large part to investment from the Philip E. and Carole R. Ratcliffe Foundation. Inside, the waterfront idyll is replaced with pristine water tanks and modern technology, more like a scientific research lab than a nursery.

Hatchery manager Steven Weschler stands under a large screen where every tank’s water quality is managed via a computerized system. He walks to the brood stock room, where wild oysters pulled from the Bay are kept at 68 degrees and fed a nutrient-rich diet of algae before moving to spawning tables, where the water is heated to a balmy 85 degrees to facilitate the release of sperm and eggs. Heavily filtered water from the near shoreline fills the tanks.

Once fertilized, larvae move to rearing tanks where they are watched carefully for the emergence of an eye spot and a foot—a sign they’re ready to attach to shells. Some larvae will be sold to local watermen—they’re microscopic; more than one million fit in a Dixie cup. The aforementioned foot will attach to shells and be planted as “spat,” aka adolescent oysters, in the Bay. Grown naturally in the Bay, most are destined to be shucked and jarred.

Other larvae are circulated with finely pulverized shell at Ferry Cove. As they grow, the oyster attaches to the microscopic shell, becoming stand-alone oyster seed—two-to-four millimeters each in size—destined to be grown by aquaculturists in mesh bags placed in cages. They will grow into the deeply cupped variety that’s appealing to serve on a plate.

These are the kind raised by Tal Petty, the founder of Hollywood Oyster Company in St. Mary’s County. He buys millions of seed from Ferry Cove, which allows him to harvest 52 weeks a year. Not surprisingly, he values that the product is consistently available. What excites him, though, is that while aquaculture oysters are specifically raised to be sold, any oyster put in the Bay plays a part in its health.

Petty sets his oyster cages on a hard sandy bottom in Hog Neck Creek. “You put a cage of oysters in the water, you pull it back out a couple months later, it’s teeming with eels, fish, algae…You’ve created a water world where there was a desert before,” he says.

While rearing larvae is an intricate process at Ferry Cove, farm-raising oysters is just as arduous. Patrick Hudson, owner of the True Chesapeake Oyster Company, explains that buying from Abel allows the farmers to concentrate on what they do best—raising delicious oysters. His oysters travel from cages in Southern Maryland to Whole Foods, Harris Teeter, and restaurants across the Mid-Atlantic, including their own, True Chesapeake in Hampden.

“Producing healthy, reliable seed suitable for aquaculture is incredibly complex,” says Hudson. “Ferry Cove brings cutting-edge technology and valuable science to that process, giving us strong, consistent seed we can depend on.”

Ferry Cove’s efforts have been welcomed by traditional watermen as well. Jeff Harrison, president of the Talbot Watermen Association, has been working the water for decades. He explains that even old-school watermen see the value in hatchery-raised product; they use spat-on-shell larvae in restoration projects that are planted each spring. This helps rebuild wild oyster reefs for watermen to harvest.

“Ferry Cove was born out of the realization that Horn Point couldn’t keep up,” he says. “[Ferry Cove] is going to be a savior not only to aquaculture but the public fisheries as well.”

After decades of decline, oysters are staging a comeback. The DNR estimates there were more than 12 billion oysters in Maryland’s waters in 2024. Sanctuaries (where oysters cannot be harvested) have proven successful, and the bivalves are showing signs of resistance to diseases that once decimated them.

Michael Roman witnessed that resurgence first-hand as the director of Horn Point from 2001 to 2023. He says the importance of aquaculture was always apparent.

“If you go to Massachusetts and Maine or Washington state, aquaculture is the dominant way to get oysters,” he says.

He explains that there are parts of the Bay where wild oysters would sink into the muddy bottom, but they can grow in aquaculture float cages. Thus, “Aquaculture has maximized and expanded the potential of oysters in [the] Bay.”

Today, Roman is on the Ferry Cove board of directors. He wanted to bring his experience to the growing enterprise and, given that it’s a nonprofit, “It’s almost like it’s a hybrid between a private, for-profit hatchery as well as a place that does experiments,” says Roman. “[It does] more than figure out ways to improve the way they produce oysters.”

Abel says the hatchery is called Ferry Cove Shellfish for a reason. Right now, it’s working with academic partners on ways to re-invigorate the soft-shell clam and even how to raise soft-shell crabs via aquaculture. They are also experimenting with fabricated shell to set larvae on, as finding the recycled real stuff is difficult and expensive.

“The goal is to support aquaculture by providing the industry with [oysters] primarily, but then expand to other shellfish with the focus on providing entrepreneurial opportunities, supporting rural parts of Maryland, and then also looking at different ways to help restore the Bay,” Abel says.

The value of shellfish aquaculture is rising. The DNR estimates the economic impact in Maryland is more than $13 million per year. Cassandra Vanhooser, director of economic development and tourism in Talbot County, explains that for the more than 500 working watermen in the county, “Ferry Cove is essentially supporting jobs.”

And oystering is a heritage industry, part of the cultural fabric that gives the area its sense of place.

“When I go to Ferry Cove, I see the future,” she concludes. “Their work marries science and heritage—strengthening our working waterfronts, enhancing oyster restoration, and expanding a vital, sustainable industry.”

That industry will increasingly lean on private enterprises like Ferry Cove as federal and state funding become less reliable, says Harrison.

“And this is when we need funding, because the Bay is doing better,” he says. “We just need more money to put more things overboard. Then maybe the Bay can get back to how it was when I was a kid.”

There are few food and beverage pairings that excite the gastronomic enthusiast quite like the oyster. There are just so many variables to geek out on, like salinity levels, texture, cooked or raw, and so on. It’s fun to explore all the combinations, and we’re happy to chime in with some of our own findings.

We’ve rounded up three suggestions to set you on your own path of discovery. Consider these jumping off points, and don’t be afraid to experiment!

Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand 2020
($15, Winebow)

Sauvignon Blanc, specifically from the Loire Valley of France and its ancient seabed soils, is among the classic oyster pairings. May we suggest a New Zealand riff to this time-honored tune? Racy tones of yellow citrus and a hint of minerals complement the salinity and creaminess of a raw oyster, while the wine’s ripe yet clean finish would stand up to a Rockefeller or Casino treatment. The best part is that Wither Hills donates a portion of profits to The Oyster Recovery Project, working to restore the health of our Chesapeake Bay’s oyster population.

Bozal Mezcal “Ensamble” 94 Proof
($55 750 ml, Opici)
We love salty and smoky together, and that’s what Mezcal brings to the table. A lot of us wouldn’t say no to a little salt and lime when enjoying an Agave-based spirit. Why not marry one with the salinity of an oyster and a dash of lemon? If the alcohol is too strong for an oyster, whip up a batch of mezcalitas and slurp away!

Anchor Porter
($14 six-pack bottles, Legends)

It’s a fortunate oyster lover who has had the opportunity to dine at Moran’s Oyster Cottage in Galway, Ireland. The smoky peat fire, the salty little buggers right out of the sea, and a pint of Guinness Draught. Heaven. Part of the magic is that Guinness—low alcohol, smooth, medium-bodied, a willing but not too powerful partner. Anchor Brewing’s Porter is another surprisingly mild partner given its dark color and rich aromas. Brewed in San Francisco since 1972, it goes well with oysters however you like them—raw or cooked.

[Editor’s Note: This piece was published as part of our October 2021 cover story “The Mighty Oyster.” Read the full package, here.]

When did oyster bars become the coolest places to eat? Over the past few years, these seafood spots have crept their way onto lists of the hippest dining establishments, and for good reason.

Like oysters, they’re the just-right mix of no-frills and fancy, encouraging a way of eating that’s steeped in nostalgia, supportive of the farm-to-table movement, and features a central communal dining space around which friends and strangers can come together even in divisive times. It’s a trend we hope is here to stay.

Order a dozen—or few—at any of these city favorites.

DYLAN’S OYSTER CELLAR

Hampden

The perfect oyster bar exists on a quiet corner in Hampden, where a mermaid mural mingles with a half-shell-eating Jesus collage and, in non-COVID times, happy hour includes Natty Boh tallboys and buck-a-shuck specials from their thoughtfully curated selection. Owners Dylan and Irene Salmon live up to their seafoody last name. 3601 Chestnut Ave.

THE LOCAL OYSTER

Mt. Vernon

From shucking on the city streets to a brick-and-mortar at Mount Vernon Marketplace (plus a new location coming soon), the L.O.’s beloved bivalve slinger Nick Schauman has played a vital part in making oysters cool again in Baltimore, with his casual bar being one of the best hangouts in town. 520 Park Ave.

FAIDLEY’S SEAFOOD

Downtown

It is a rite of passage to sit down to a paper plate of fat half-shells at the central raw bar of this O.G. seafood establishment in Lexington Market. In ole Bawlmer fashion, they serve them on the “flats,” or top shell, with lemon and a pack of Saltines. Order a beer, and be sure to chat up Lou if he’s your shucker. 203 N. Paca St.

MAMA’S ON THE HALF SHELL

Canton

Now in its 18th year, this Canton corner bar has become a Baltimore classic, with weekend afternoons usually overflowing with locals who have flocked for oysters nearly every way you can eat them, alongside freshly squeezed orange crushes and Orioles and Ravens games on the TV. An ideal Saturday afternoon. 2901 O’Donnell St.

THAMES STREET OYSTER HOUSE

Fells Point

For a while, this Fells Point seafood haven was the only game in town serving up fine-dining flights of oysters, but even as new spots have come onto the scene, theirs remain some of the cleanest shucks around. Their impressive oyster list includes top varieties from Canada to the West Coast. 1728 Thames St.

TRUE CHESAPEAKE OYSTER CO.

Hampden

The only oyster farm-owned restaurant in the state, this Whitehall Mill pillar is the outpost of its namesake aquaculture operation. Their Southern Maryland-raised Skinny Dipper and Huckleberry oysters are always hawked at their sleek bar, alongside elevated Chesapeake cuisine by locally loved chef Zack Mills. 3300 Clipper Mill Rd.

THE URBAN OYSTER

Mobile Pop-Up

Currently operating on a mobile basis, this Blackowned oyster pop-up can be found at the Baltimore Farmers Market on Sundays. It’s always worth waiting in line for chef Jasmine Norton’s fan-favorite chargrilled oysters, featuring flavor variations like barbecue-bacon-cheddar and teriyaki. Holliday & Saratoga Sts.

FARTHER AFIELD: Ryleigh’s Oyster, Lutherville-Timonium; Sailor Oyster Bar, Annapolis; Old Ebbitt Grill, Washington, D.C.; Pearl Dive, Washington, D.C.; Ruse, St. Michaels.

La Vie En Rose from Dutch Courage

It doesn’t get any prettier than this cocktail designed by Dutch Courage owner Brendan Dorr. “I wanted to create a cocktail that represented Dutch Courage as a gin cocktail bar, and what’s better than a martini?” says Dorr. “I took the classic martini recipe and put a oral spin on it.”

INGREDIENTS
2 ounces Glendalough Rose Gin
.75 ounce Dolin Dry Vermouth
.25 ounce Tattersall Creme de Fleur 1 dash Peychaud’s Bitters
1 dash Rose Water

DIRECTIONS
1. Stir all ingredients with ice.
2. Strain into a cocktail glass.
3. Garnish with lemon peel and surround with dried rose petals.
Serves 1.

Pretty in Pink: A pink-hued cocktail is perfect for your Valentine. The color represents compassion, nurturing, and love. It also signifies unconditional love and understanding. It’s feminine, intimate, and for any romantic occasion, but especially Valentine’s Day.

Raw Oysters with Beet Horseradish from Dylan’s Oyster Cellar

“Our favorite way to eat oysters is dressed simply with prepared horseradish and lemon,” says Dylan Salmon, co-owner of Dylan’s Oyster Cellar. “For Valentine’s Day, we thought that adding beets for a pop of deep red to the gray color of horseradish would put a sweet, earthy, and colorful twist on an otherwise drab but spicy condiment.”

INGREDIENTS
Fresh horseradish root, at least 4 inches, peeled and cut into small cubes
15-ounce can cooked beets, drained
4 tablespoons white vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Fresh-shucked oysters (pick up available at Dylan’s, of course.)

DIRECTIONS
1. Add horseradish chunks a little bit at a time into the feeding tube of your food processor.
2. Pulse several times, scraping down the sides if needed.
3. Add drained beets and pulse a few more times.
4. Add vinegar, sugar, and salt and process for 30 more seconds or so, until you get a nice finely textured consistency.

NOTE: Horseradish sauce will keep in a tightly sealed container in the fridge for three days, but it will lose heat over time. If you like it hot and zingy, eat it within a few hours after you prepare it.

WARNING: Do not breathe in too closely to freshly grated horseradish, as it is blindingly hot. Also, start with a tiny bit when you first taste to ensure you can stand the heat.

To freshly shucked, raw oysters, add 1⁄4 teaspoon of the beet horseradish and a dollop of salmon roe for color, texture, and ocean flavor. Finish by garnishing with a fresh grating of lemon zest.
Makes 2 cups. 

Chocolate Truffles with Powdered Strawberries from Cosima

Nothing says Valentine’s Day like chocolate truffles. Though chocolate has long been believed to be an aphrodisiac—the emperor Montezuma was said to have consumed the cocoa bean in massive amounts to fuel his romantic trysts—science says otherwise. If chocolate has any effect on the libido, it’s likely more psychological than physiological.

That said, this recipe from Cosima exectuive chef Anthony Franklin is sure to make your loved ones feel cherished. “I prefer to make these with my special someone in the early afternoon,” says Franklin, “and enjoy these endorphin-releasing treats for dessert with a scoop of ice cream. Nothing is more convivial than waking up on Valentine’s Day and playing with chocolate.”

INGREDIENTS
8 ounces of pure chocolate
2⁄3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Strawberry powder
1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt

DIRECTIONS
1. Place chocolate in heat-resistant mixing bowl and set aside.
2. Heat heavy cream until it begins to simmer.
3. Once simmered, add butter and sea salt.
4. Pour hot liquid in the bowl of pure chocolate and allow cream to soften chocolate.
5. Add vanilla extract and mix ingredients until you achieve a smooth consistency.
6. Wrap bowl in plastic wrap and refrigerate for two hours.
7. Scoop out desired size of set truffle mix (a tablespoon works well), then roll into a ball.
8. Roll truffles into powered strawberry or desired toppings.
Serves 20-24. 

Fudgy Walnut Cookies from Citron

So many cookie recipes contain gluten, so this dense and delicious recipe for fudgy walnut cookies—by way of Citron’s pastry chef Carlie King—is a particular treat. “My inspiration for this recipe was really just a good chocolate snack everyone without a nut allergy could enjoy,” says King. “This is a great gluten-free cookie that everyone, including gluten eaters, really likes.”

INGREDIENTS
4 1⁄4 cups confectioner’s sugar
1 cup cocoa powder
2 1⁄8 cups walnuts, toasted and chopped
Pinch of salt
1 cup egg whites, pasteurized

DIRECTIONS
1. Sift confectioners’ sugar and cocoa powder into a large bowl.
2. Mix cocoa powder mixture with walnuts and salt.
3. Pour in egg whites while mixing. (You can mix by hand or at a low speed with a mixer.)
4. Mix until just combined. (Do not over mix.)
5. Scoop dough with a 2-ounce cookie scoop onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment.
6. Bake at 350 Fahrenheit for five minutes.
7. Turn and bake for an additonal five minutes.

CLIMATE CONCLUSIONS

On the heels of a landmark report from the United Nation’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change in October, the federal government released its own study late last month, with implications for Maryland. The National Climate Assessment, which is conducted every four years, found that the state is already experiencing some of the adverse effects of rising global temperatures, such as increased coastal flooding, precipitation, and frequency of waterborne illnesses, as well as reduced air quality. Future predictions include more of the same, as well as rising waters, the continued loss of already vulnerable marshlands, and shorter winters, the latter of which admittedly sounds nice. However, “the Northeast region is characterized by four distinct seasons and a diverse landscape that is central to the region’s cultural identity, quality of life, and economic success,” the study writes. “The seasonal climate, natural systems, and accessibility of certain types of recreation are threatened by declining snow and ice, rising sea levels, and rising temperatures.”

RECORD RAINS

It’s official: 2018 is Baltimore’s wettest year on record. As of early December, the total precipitation recorded at the Baltimore-Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport totaled 65.67 inches, surpassing 62.66 inches in 2003, the previous wettest year on record. With more than 20 inches of rain from September through November, including the effects of Hurricanes Florence and Michael, this was also Baltimore’s wettest fall on record, while the summer—with more than 25 inches from June to August—was the city’s second wettest. “Congratulations, Baltimore,” tweeted the Washington Post’s Capital Weather Gang in mid-November. “Wettest year on record—with still six weeks to go!”

OPEN WATERS

After a year of headlines surrounding the flood of debris flowing through the Conowingo Dam following months of historic rainfall, the gates are once again open in Darlington, and this time, until further notice. Earlier this year after heavy spring rains, the dam created controversy as the opening of its gates carried trees, car tires, and other miscellaneous litter freely from the Susquehanna River into the Chesapeake Bay, even inundating the Annapolis Harbor. “The water right now really looks like chocolate milk,” University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science professor Cindy Palinkas told The Sun in August, as satellite images also showed a plume of sediment in the Upper Bay. Now, after a historically wet November, up to 12 of the dam’s flood gates are open under “spill conditions,” and boaters are advised to once again use extreme caution due to potential detritus afloat in local waters.

DRILL DISPUTE

In late November, the Trump administration approved the use of seismic surveillance to find oil and gas formations under the Atlantic Ocean, including locations off the Maryland coast. The move comes after the announcement of a five-year offshore drilling plan, which would open as much as 90 percent of U.S. waters to energy exploration. At the time, Governor Larry Hogan joined other states to request that Maryland waters be excluded from potential drilling sites, while the General Assembly in Annapolis voted to impose strict liability standards for companies regarding any future spills. Critics claim the seismic practice can disturb, injure, and kill marine wildlife, including whales, sea turtles, and dolphins who frequent nearby waters on their migratory paths. According to National Geographic, “large marine mammals like whales and dolphin use sound for communicating, feeding, and mating, meaning the blasts could impact all three of those essential activities,” while studies have also shown that the blasts impact creatures as small as zooplankton, a critical part of the aquatic food chain, at upwards of 4,000 feet away. Meanwhile, officials have stated that survey vessels will be required to abide by certain precautions, such as including onboard lookouts and acoustic monitoring to detect marine life, and that operations will be shut down when a protected species have been sighted. Permits have been authorized for five companies from Delaware to Florida.

OVERHARVESTED OYSTERS

Last winter, Maryland oysters were overharvested in more than half of the state’s public fishery, according to the first-ever stock assessment by the Department of Natural Resources and University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science. Released in late November, the report warns that such harvests, if continued, could eventually eliminate the bivalve populations in those regions. It also estimates that the state’s total oyster population has declined by about half since 1999, down to about 300 million from 600 million over the last 18 years. Experts expect these findings to stir debate over the management plan of the fishery.

PARK REPAIRS

In the coming months, a public city park will get new life as the National Recreation and Park Association announced the revitalization of ABC Park, formerly known as Catherine Street Park, located just northeast of the sprawling Carroll Park in Carrollton Ridge. Slated for completion in summer 2019, the renovations to this volunteer-run greenspace will include an upgraded and expanded playground, as well as the addition of new amenities such as an outdoor basketball court, an interactive splash pad, and an 800-square-foot indoor-outdoor field house. The park is frequented by local youth and used for community sports games and neighborhood festivals.

Les Miserables
Oct. 9-14. 12 N Eutaw St.. $54-199. Two years after the end of its second Broadway revival, this Tony Award-winning musical will come alive on the hallowed Hippodrome stage during a six-night stint in Baltimore. Rediscover the timeless story of love and redemption in this updated production presented by famed British producer Sir Cameron Mackintosh. With an iconic soundtrack, including “I Dreamed A Dream” and “On My Own,” and an intricate set inspired by creator Victor Hugo’s original artwork, this rendition of the timeless tale will leave audiences wishing the show lasted one day more.

AVAM’s Parenting: An Art Without a Manual
Oct. 6-Sept. 1, 2019. American Visionary Museum, 800 Key Highway. Free-$10. The American Visionary Art Museum considers parenting to be “humanity’s most essential performance art,” and, for the next 11 months, will showcase work that explores the experience of parenting and being parented. This highly anticipated exhibition features a wide range of pieces by 36 artists, including locals such as Francisco Loza, Bobby Adams, and Chris Wilson (“Momas Boys,” pictured).

Made in Baltimore: Short Film Festival
Oct. 6. Creative Alliance, 3134 Eastern Ave.. 7:30PM. $10. With hometown auteurs such as John Waters and Barry Levinson, this city certainly has film in its DNA. During this one-day extravaganza at the Creative Alliance in Highlandtown, celebrate the city’s up-and-coming directors, producers, editors, and actors with screenings of 12 short films that view the world through a uniquely Baltimore lens. Revel in the chance to view works by the next generation of area filmmakers and join fellow cinephiles to applaud the talented winners who take home the night’s top prizes.

Doors Open Baltimore
Oct. 6-7. Location varies. 1PM. Free. For one weekend, get free access to more than 60 of Baltimore’s architectural wonders, along with lectures and guided tours of local historic structures and neighborhoods. During this fifth annual tradition, stop by tourist attractions such as The Star-Spangled Banner Flag House and the Howard Peters Rawlings Conservatory, or delve into more recent, lesser-known additions such as the mid-century modern Highfield House landmark designed by architectural revolutionary Mies van der Rohe. Whether you stop into one spot or turn the building hop into your entire afternoon, take advantage of this weekend’s open-door policy and explore the city’s hidden gems.

Baltimore Beer Week
Oct. 12-21. Location and prices vary. It’s no secret that Charm City’s beer scene has exploded over the past decade with more new breweries, beer-centric events, and homebrewers than ever before. During this nine-day celebration of all things hoppy and frothy, check out annual brew week events such as the Baltimore Beer Legends Hall of Fame at the Mt. Washington Tavern, the Maryland Brewers Big Wheel Race at Max’s Taphouse, and endless pairings, new releases, and tap takeovers across the city. Prices vary, baltimorebeerweek.com.

Oysterfest
Oct. 13-14. 36 E Cross Street. Free-$100. As the oft-repeated quote goes, “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” The owners of Ryleigh’s are no strangers to the one-of-a-kind delicacy, and they’re hosting their 12th annual oyster festival just in time for the official start of the R-month season. Stop by the Federal Hill bar and restaurant for two days of al fresco local brews, live music, and tons of mouth-watering mollusks. Be sure to stick around to watch some of the region’s best shuckers compete in the annual competition on Saturday afternoon.

Immigrant and Refugee Food Festival
Oct. 14. Canton Waterfront Park, 3001 Boston St.. $15. With the motto #BreakingBarriersByBreakingBread, this food festival celebrates the diversity of the city’s dining scene with dishes by some of the best immigrant and refugee chefs in Baltimore. Spend the afternoon at Canton Waterfront Park sampling authentic eats from local vendors such as Cocina Luchadoras, Man Vs. Pho, and Thai Street, listening to live performances by Madagascan band BeMaeva and DJ Nikilad, and catching an appearance by Maryland Democratic primary candidate Krish Vignarajah.

Baltimore Running Festival
Oct. 20. $55-270. Lace up your sneakers for the city’s most anticipated race of the year. Whether you’re trying out the 5K or taking on the full marathon, join more than 17,000 runners in circling the city and seeing picture-perfect views of the waterfront along the way. For the first time in its 17 years, the finish line will be at the Inner Harbor, where participants and spectators alike can celebrate a successful run with food, drinks, music, and family-friendly activities.

Maryland Science Center & Believe in Music Halloween 2018
Oct. 27. 601 Light St.. 8PM-1AM. $35-75. Halloween music doesn’t have to consist solely of “Thriller” and “Monster Mash,” and the Maryland Science Center and local nonprofit Believe In Music are hosting an all-out dance party to prove it. Across seven stages featuring Baltimore musicians, prepare to dance with headlining electronic artist Dan Deacon, sing along with folk legend Caleb Stine, rock out to post-punk group Natural Velvet, and wander throughout the center’s exhibits in your finest costume.

The Great Halloween Lantern Parade and Festival
Oct. 27. Patterson Park at Eastern & Linwood Aves.. 3:30PM. Free. It’s not truly Halloween in Baltimore until this glow-in-the-dark spectacular takes over the hills of Patterson Park. Each year, on the last Saturday in October, the city green space transforms into a family-friendly festival, complete with lantern-making classes, hayrides, and local beers, followed by the sunset illuminated parade featuring artists, musicians, and dancers in a park-wide procession.

What would you eat if you were stranded on a deserted island? That’s what Sailor Oyster Bar co-owner Scott Herbst asked himself when he came up with the concept for this adorable Naptown newbie that’s been serving up oysters—and other fruits of the bay and beyond—since last August. 

Set inside an early 1900s rowhouse in the heart of historic Annapolis, SOB (their acronym, not ours!) has no ovens, no stoves, no microwaves, not even a kitchen. Just a toaster oven, a blowtorch, and ingredients that get prepped in the intimate bar area. 

Herbst, who also co-owns Tsunami, a popular sushi spot down the street, accomplishes a lot with the limited parameters he has set for himself, and there’s tons of ingenuity at work here. In less able hands, this concept could easily be nothing more than gimmickry, but Herbst is a real pro.  

 The menu, featuring oysters from both coasts, various types of crudo, and ceviche, is a celebration of seafood. Highlights include a nod to what sailors ate on their voyages in the 18th and 19th centuries, in the form of trendy Jose Gourmet premium tinned fish, including crème de la crème Bemka white sturgeon caviar (to the tune of $75) served with salted butter, toast, and greens. Salads, “sammys,” snacks like torched octopus, and artisanal toasts round out the menu. (Okay, it’s likely that no one ever ate this well after a shipwreck, but we’re willing to give Herbst a little poetic license here.)

On an early May visit, we sampled a good cross section of the menu, including a seasonally inspired kale salad with goat cheese, strawberries, and spiced walnuts, and a wow-worthy charcuterie board piled high with mortadella, coppa, manchego, spiced nuts, and dabs of fig spread and avocado purée. A standout among standouts was the escolar crudo, a type of mackerel that Herbst describes as the “Camembert of the sea” because of its creamy quality. 

The crudo was served with a cucumber-avocado chimichurri that cut the richness of the fish and delivered a rush of fantastic flavor. Another favorite dish was the torched salmon toast, a novel take on lox and bagels featuring whipped cheese, Norwegian salmon, and dill topped with salmon roe on slices of baguette.   

Everything about the experience was intimate, from our jovial server, Frank, who told us, “My job is to make you happy,” to the vintage vibe—including black-and-white photographs of Herbst’s father and other family members who served in the Navy—and the classic Vargas-style pinup girls papering the bathroom walls. 

If we ever find ourselves shipwrecked, we can only hope that Herbst is on the manifest. 

SAILOR OYSTER BAR 196 West Street, Annapolis, 410-571-5449. HOURS Tue.-Sun. 4-11 p.m. PRICES Snacks: $4-16; crudo: $14; tinned fish: $12-75; toast: $10-15. AMBIANCE Steampunk sailor. 

Bay Watch 

Spring has brought with it a flurry of good news about the bay. First, using sonar technology, scientists from the Smithsonian Environmental Research Center found that the Choptank River has more river herring in it than previously suspected. Then, the Maryland Department of Natural Resources found that reproductively viable female crabs are at their most plentiful since 1990 and that the amount of underwater grass in Maryland’s portion of the bay reached a record high of 59,277 acres in 2016. Furthermore, in late April, the Chesapeake Bay Foundation seeded 3 million baby oysters in the Patapsco River, hoping to return oyster shoals to the urban waterway. All of these rehabilitative milestones indicate that federally overseen pollution control programs are stabilizing the bay after decades of environmental decline. And though it briefly looked like funding for those measures would be threatened by the Trump administration’s proposed EPA budget cuts, Congress decided to maintain program funding for the coming fiscal year. 

Following such a streak, the University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science issued a report this week awarding the bay one of its highest-ever health grades. Though on its face an unimpressive C, the grade represents drastic improvement since the University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science began evaluating the bay in 1986 and a 1-point improvement over last year’s score. As with the Chesapeake Bay Foundation scorecard—another important third-party bay evaluation—the University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science grades the bay in several categories and then aggregates those scores into an overall mark. 

“I really believe we’re at a tipping point,” Nicholas DiPasquale, director of the Environmental Protection Agency’s Chesapeake Bay Program office in Annapolis, told The Sun. “Once you reach a point where you’ve overcome the inertia of the system, these indicators start building on each other.”

A third regional water quality scorecard, this one measuring the health of Baltimore’s Inner Harbor and its tributaries, will be released on Monday by Waterfront Partnership of Baltimore. 

On Your Bike 

National Bike to Work Day is next Friday, May 19, and the Central Maryland Metropolitan Council has collected a handy list of nearly 40 official events on its website. The events range from bike safety checks to commuting convoys led by experienced cyclers and designed to introduce newbies to the ins and outs of bike commuting. Though Baltimore City is hosting the greatest number of events, Anne Arundel, Baltimore, Howard, Carroll, and Harford counties are represented, too. Bike to Work Day grew out of National Bike Month, which began in 1956. It promotes the benefits of cycling, which include physical fitness and reduced vehicle emissions and air pollution. 

In The Air 

Speaking of reduced vehicle emissions, The Sun has a good rundown of where the Baltimore region stands in terms of air quality. In short, the Maryland Clean Air report found that, overall, air quality was better in Baltimore in 2016 than it had been in previous years, but that ozone levels ticked up. Ozone is ground level smog created when particles from vehicle and power plant emissions interact with sunlight. It can be harmful to humans—particularly the very young, very old, and very sick—and is the cause of the Code Orange and Code Red air quality alerts that are sometimes issued. 

“We’re making clean air progress with strong partnerships and steady investments, but more is needed regionally and nationally to sustain our pace and protect our health,” Maryland Department of the Environment Secretary Ben Grumbles said in a statement. “Marylanders’ hearts, lungs and waterways will benefit from smart actions at home and in upwind states to keep improving our air quality.”

Birdcam Season Soars 

And now, as they say, for something completely different. Naturalists from all over the world delight each year in the Chesapeake Bay’s springtime birdcams—and this year is no different. The Chesapeake Conservancy hosts live streams of three of the most popular:

The peregrine falcon cam atop 100 Light Street in Baltimore City, which is capturing the growth of four furry fluffballs.

The great blue heron rookery on the Eastern Shore

And the osprey cam on Kent Island 

There is also another osprey cam, this one following a nest with three eggs at Severna Park High School

Follow along as the birds raise their families and the chicks eventually fly the nest. Happy spring and happy birding! 

We could all use a makeover every once in a while. That was what Dave Carey thought about Saute after eight years of business in Canton. Located at the corner of Linwood Avenue and Hudson Street, the bar always felt a little stuffy to us—with higher-than-average price points, fancy entrees, and even a name that didn’t feel very Baltimore.

So Carey decided it was time for a
change last fall and remodeled the restaurant for six weeks. The result is
Lee’s Pint and Shell (2844 Hudson St., 410-327-2883), named
after Carey’s late father who was a seafood lover and fisherman. This new
version features a raw bar, reclaimed barn wood, vintage seafood posters, and sliding
garage-door windows.

The new menu, still headed by chef Mark Suliga, reflects the nautical feel with a lineup of steamed shrimp, clams, mussels, lobster, and oysters. Patrons will also notice welcome holdovers from Saute including the addictive pulled-duck nachos.

In keeping with its name, the new bar also boasts an impressive beer list, with 18 taps of mostly local beer from RaR, Union, Key, Flying Dog, and Evolution. Other creative additions are thoughtful whiskey flights and a menu of oyster shooters, including everything from tequila to Natty Boh.

Nearly every time we’ve passed
Lee’s since it opened, the place has been packed, a testament to residents
wanting something more casual. And the night we went was no different. Every
bar stool and high-top table was filled, and the din in the room reflected
that. Needless to say, if you want to go out and have a quiet drink, then Lee’s
is not for you.

But the boisterous energy, with music and college football games on the stereo, didn’t phase us as we dug into a dozen Orchard Points—sweet and buttery oysters out of Chestertown. We also tried the pulled-pork fries, an epic mountain of meat with smoked chili barbecue sauce, spicy slaw with poblanos, and Gouda. This might be our new favorite hangover order.

To wash it all down, we were happy that Lee’s had one of our very favorite local beers on tap, the citrusy RaR Nanticoke Nectar IPA. Also of note was the Bourbon ’n’ Cider cocktail, served with ginger beer in a chilled silver mug. And we’ve got to give credit to our server and bartender, both of whom were extremely attentive despite the size of the crowd. Let Lee’s be a lesson to us all—it’s never too late to reinvent yourself.

Step into the walk-in fridge at the world headquarters of Barren Island Oysters—a single-story concrete shack on Hoopers Island—and owner and founder Tim Devine’s goal of growing the best oysters in the world doesn’t seem so far-fetched. In fact, it seems like he might be onto something. On three sides of the arctic-air cupboard, oysters are stacked head high, and their smell suggests the essence of the bay—the cold, clean heart of the Chesapeake.

Devine—a lean, tan, 40-year-old, wearing for-the-moment-clean waders and boots—also seems born of the Chesapeake’s brackish waters, like some hack writer’s dream of the ideal waterman. He grew up in nearby Easton; he sailed on the Chesapeake Bay as a kid; and he walks with the carriage of a man who knows he belongs here. But the road he traveled to oystering was far longer than the 40 miles between Easton and Hoopers Island.

After high school, Devine went off to Georgetown University, from which he graduated in 2001 with a degree in classics. But as his final semester there wound down, he asked himself a very important question: “What the hell am I going to do with my degree?” In that final semester, he took a photography class and decided to run with it. So he left D.C. for New York, where he showed up at the studio of famed Time portrait photographer Gregory Heisler, then basically hung around until Heisler had no choice but to give him an apprenticeship.

“It was a great way to spend my 20s,” remembers Devine, who set a rigorously direct course through the competitive world of New York photography. He spent years apprenticing with various rock-star photographers, developing his technique, his eye, and his network. When it came time to strike out on his own, Devine’s first assignment was a Wyclef Jean cover shoot for Keyboard magazine. Soon he was shooting for Time, People, New York magazine, and Sports Illustrated. In 2006, American Photo lauded him as part of the “next generation of great American photographers.”

“He creates these really cinematic portraits,” says Jim Surber, deputy photo editor at ESPN.com and ESPN The Magazine. Surber would often assign Devine tough shoots with lots of moving parts.

“People want to pose and smile. Tim doesn’t want any of that,” Surber says. “He wants them jumping off a diving board and lighting a fire. Humanity is a goofy thing, Tim likes to control all that chaos and get to the story that’s underneath.”

It’s true. Survey Devine’s work and a pattern emerges of pedestrian scenes shattered by a bolt of chaos: eight people lazing artfully about a pool, save the one flailing man plummeting toward the water; a bored suburban family beginning its morning in a kitchen overrun by dogs as the father carries in a large golden retriever; an awkward boy in a movie theater, failing to put his arm around his disapproving date while, two rows back, a couple makes out in a way sure to earn them an NC-17 rating.

The key to Devine’s work is his unerring ability to command all of the variables, but eventually he realized he was losing control of himself. His work had taken over, manipulating him the very way he orchestrated his shots. It was an uncomfortable realization and, just as he was struggling to come to grips with it, his wife asked for a divorce. For perhaps the first time in his adult life, Tim Devine found himself adrift.

“I suddenly realized I’d been an asshole,” Devine says candidly. “I was burnt out on New York. I was burnt out on photography. I was putting all this work into this narcissistic pursuit—taking pictures. It was all about my ideas.” Instead, he says, he “wanted to work with my hands . . . to build something.” After photographing a pig farm in upstate New York, he began to think about pig farming. But that didn’t feel quite right. Then, on a trip home, lightning struck. “I was visiting my parents and I read this story about oyster farming in The Star Democrat. If other people were doing it, well, I could, too.”

Devine especially liked that oyster farming would help the bay. Oysters are a keystone species for the Chesapeake. They’re filter-feeders and reef-builders that clean the water and provide habitat for other species. Sure, there were lots of logistics to work out, but it was an idea swimming in romance. In that moment, Devine became an oyster farmer.

When he showed up on Hoopers Island in 2011, the locals were understandably skeptical, and Devine knew he had a lot to learn. Oyster farming is a relatively new form of aquaculture for the Chesapeake—Devine’s farm was one of the first 13 in Maryland—and each farm is radically different from the next. Oysters can be grown on existing wild oyster beds; in cages, racks, or bags below the surface of the bay; or in tanks, and each method has its own challenges. Devine couldn’t get much advice out of fellow oyster farmers, who tend to hold onto their secrets like a prospector guards his gold, so he mostly learned through good-old-fashioned trial and error.

“Out here, there’s no such thing as tried-and-true,” he says. “There are great technologies for doing this. But they don’t work everywhere.” For instance, oyster cages from the warm waters of Australia seemed a perfect fit until the bay froze. Another option he considered—river floats that keep the oysters near the surface—work far up tributaries, but on the open Chesapeake, they flounder in the face of big storms. Oyster farmers also have to deal with salinity, turbidity, predators, and weather. They have to navigate the balance of oyster biology and state regulations, maintain fickle machinery, keep a crew, and create an ideal oyster that stands up in a fierce marketplace.

But just as Devine could turn an anarchic photoshoot into oddly ordered beauty, so too has he been able to harness the messiness of Mother Nature into an outstanding oyster.

“Barren Islands, they’re crowd-pleasers—they’ve got ideal size, they’re that perfect medium between salty and sweet,” says Patrick Gruner, executive sous chef at Easton’s Brasserie Brightwell, one of the first restaurants to serve Devine’s Barren Island Oysters. “They’re not that strong, pungent, kick-you-in-the-face oyster, but they stand up to what I’m doing. We do Parmesan oysters, espresso barbecue, fennel orange beurre blanc—strong flavors—but the Barren Islands hold their own. In season, we get great, wild, diver-caught oysters, but I keep Barren Island on the menu year-round.”

If there is a secret to his oysters’ appeal, Devine attributes it to Barren Island itself—180 acres of sinking terra firma just across Tar Bay from Hoopers Island. Devine leases eight acres of bay bottom there and grows his oysters in 3- by 4-foot cages, stacked two cages deep, about 8 feet below the surface. The site was a risky choice, and a surprising one for a self-described control freak like Devine, but it has paid off. “All this sediment,” says Devine, waving out across the waters to the last speck of the fading island, “It’s what’s in my oysters. The island is literally flavoring them. You’re tasting Barren Island.”

Barren Island, the company, is a three-man operation, though it took Devine years to find the right crew. “These guys do the work. I just pose for pictures,” says Devine, standing on the deck of his company’s 40-foot jalopy of a boat, named—appropriately enough—Paul’s Old Boat.

Tony Carpenter drives the boat. He’s a lean, sandy-haired kid in his mid-20s, a lifelong Hoopers Islander with a big smile and a motor mouth that competes with the boat’s twin Yamaha 150s. Adan Landell is his bookend—6-foot-2 if he’s an inch, with arms thick as a bear and a bristle-black beard—who talks about as much as the oysters.

After reaching the Barren Island oyster fields—the Hoopers Island lighthouse set picturesquely on the horizon—Devine and his crew begin hauling in the first pair of stacked cages from the bottom. They dump the oysters into a vat and begin to scrub the thick muck from the cages with hard wire brushes. Pulling up the cages allows them to clean off sediment from the oysters, and tumbling the oysters through the vat separates the weak-shelled from the sturdy-shelled specimens.

Each cage is pulled about three times a year, and Devine is out here nearly every day, year-round. It’s cold work; it’s hot work; it’s filthy work. This year, Devine will plant 3 million oysters on his eight acres of bay bottom. A million of them probably won’t make it to market.

Devine grabs a clean oyster and a wry smile comes to his face. The oyster is the right size, exactly the width of Devine’s hand, with a deep cup and a straight shell. “I’m taking pictures again,” Devine mentions, adding that, for the first time in a long time, he’s happy with them. He no longer builds the perfect image, he says. It finds him.

“These oysters, my oysters? They’re as good as I can get them, and I spend a lot of time trying—more than anybody else. And I’m pretty good at stuff,” Devine says as he pops open the shell cleanly. The meat inside is plump and glistening. The taste is mild, clean, and buttery—the perfect oyster.

Get a Grip
Kathy Flann (Texas Review Press)

There’s something about Flann’s characters that stays with you. The protagonists in her short stories range across the spectrum of age, social class, and life experience, so it may seem puzzling to feel so connected to them. But perhaps it’s because Flann, a creative writing professor at Goucher College, expertly illustrates the yearning for change and control that we all experience. Though you don’t know exactly what it’s like to be an Estonian teenager journeying from your blighted neighborhood to a college interview with your brother, maybe, like him, you’ve also craved a future rich with opportunity. And even if you’ve never been an unmarried, 40-year-old woman devouring your birthday cake by yourself, perhaps you, too, have ached for love and a purpose in life. Most of these narratives play out in partly real, partly imagined Baltimore neighborhoods that are so authentic you’ll feel as if you could run into any of the characters at the grocery store or the airport. Best of all are Flann’s unresolved endings. With each, she takes you to the precipice, and leaves it up to you to decide which way life will turn.

Chesapeake Oysters: The Bay’s Foundation and Future
Kate Livie (The History Press)

It’s easy to forget, as we’re slurping down these delicious bivalves, how much they’re entwined in our history as a state, region, and country. The earliest English settlers wrote about how they encountered the opalescent shells over an open fire, as Native Americans prepared a meal. Then, in the 19th and 20th centuries, thousands in Baltimore and on the Eastern Shore made their livings by harvesting oysters, so much so they nearly destroyed them. Oysters were in such demand that they were given the moniker “white gold” and became the frequent target of pirates, who would steal catches off boats. There was even an Oyster Navy patrolling the Chesapeake. Livie, the director of education at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, skillfully recounts this history and the science behind these fascinating creatures, weaving historical accounts with anecdotes and engaging tidbits. The information couldn’t be more timely, with oyster aquaculture booming and reminding us all how much we owe to these pearly beauts.

One Child for Another
Nancy Murray (11th Hour Press)

Memoir is both the easiest and hardest genre of literature to write. Easiest, because we are showcasing our own histories, what we know best. Hardest, because it can be difficult to face and chronicle our most miserable moments, to detail our failures and disappointments, to admit that yes, life is flawed. In her debut book, Murray, a graduate of the University of Baltimore’s MFA program, treads that ground with grace and sincerity, creating a poignant example of what memoirs can achieve. She details how she became pregnant as a teenager in the 1970s and her decision to give up her child for adoption. She relates the story with remarkable detail and candor—from her description of the outfit she wore as she journeyed to a home for unwed mothers to the excruciating, emotional pain of creating a new life she knew could not be a part of her own. Murray’s story is one of surviving abuse, sacrifice, and ultimately, resilience, told with such honesty that you’ll feel as if you are experiencing it with her. You won’t want to put it down.

Read an interview with writer Nancy Murray.

Before you start perfecting that turkey, mashing those potatoes, and baking more holiday cookies than you know what to do with, let the pros do the work for you. Let’s face it—you’ll be sick of your own cooking in no time, so treat yourself with these fall food fetes.

GREEK FOOD & CULTURAL FESTIVAL
11/6-8: Greek Orthodox Cathedral of the Annunciation, 24 W. Preston St. Times vary. Free. 410-727-1831. Moussaka, baklava, and gyros all in one place? Yes, please. Indulge in Greek delights and celebrate Greece’s vibrant culture with live music, cathedral tours, and shopping.

OYSTERJAM
11/7: Phillips Wharf Environmental Center, 6129 Tilghman Island Rd., Tilghman Island. 1-4 p.m. $10-50. 410-886-9200. Enjoy as many oysters as your heart desires with an all-you-can-eat buffet on the Eastern Shore, with live music, a silent auction, and educational exhibits in this quiet town.

MARYLAND IRISH FESTIVAL
11/6-8: Maryland State Fairgrounds, 2200 York Rd., Timonium. Times vary. Free-$20. Irish culinary culture isn’t all about Guinness, but don’t worry, there’ll be plenty flowing here. Embrace the Emerald Isle tradition, with music, dancing, and lots of traditional fare.

EMPORIYUM D.C.
11/14-15: Union Market, Dock 5, 1309 5th St. NE, Washington D.C. Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sun. 10 a.m.-3 p.m. $15-40. This two-day market is foodie heaven, with over 80 regional and national vendors, including locals such as The Local Oyster, Dooby’s, Kinderhook, and Mouth Party Caramels.

HEAVY SEAS CHILI & CHEESE FESTIVAL
11/7: Heavy Seas Brewery, 4615 Hollins Ferry Rd., Halethorpe. 12-4 p.m. $39. 410-247-7822. If you missed Oktoberfest, make up for it with this perfect fall pairing. Try 10 versions of Baltimore’s best chili, nibble on cheese, and finish it off with more than 12 beers on tap.

OYFEST
11/21: Union Craft Brewing, 1700 Union Ave. 12-5 p.m. $5 suggested donation. 410-467-0290. Enjoy all things oyster at this Hampden-Woodberry brewery with a great selection of craft beers, live music, and local oyster farms. Don’t get there too late—the shucks will sell out quick.

There’s a renaissance underway in the waters of the Chesapeake Bay, and it’s not just the delicious, repopulating rockfish. Oysters are everywhere these days, and while they’re no longer confined to “R” months, we’re finally in prime season for wild, salty-sweet ‘sters. This October, make Maryland your oyster and get your shuck on at these seven half-shell happenings.

MERMAID KISS OYSTER FEST
10/6: National Aquarium. 6 p.m. $95-170. Join the Oyster Recovery Partnership to support local oyster restoration and the health of the Chesapeake at its fifth annual party, full of food, music, and drinks on the Inner Harbor.

ROCK HALL FALL FEST
10/10: Main St., Rock Hall. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Free. In this waterfront whistle-stop on the Eastern Shore, mingle with local watermen while you enjoy fresh-caught seafood, a New Orleans-style parade, and live blues and bluegrass.

RYLEIGH’S OYSTERFEST
10/10-11: Ryleigh’s Oyster, 12-9 p.m. Free-$99. For two full days, celebrate the bay’s bivalves in historic Federal Hill with 10-plus raw bars, live music, and the fourth annual shucking competition to benefit the Oyster Recovery Partnership and Living Classrooms.

U.S. OYSTER FEST
10/17-18: St. Mary’s County Fairgrounds, Leonardtown. Times vary. Free-$5. At the king of all oyster festivals, see the best of the best compete in the U.S. National Oyster Shucking Competition, with tons of food, live music, and local vendors in St. Mary’s County.

BULL & OYSTER ROAST
10/24: Mount Harmon Plantation, Earleville. 5 p.m. $60. Take part in the Land of Pleasant Living tradition of fresh oysters and spicy barbecue at this beautiful, old plantation in Cecil County.

THE GREAT BALTIMORE OYSTER FESTIVAL
10/24: West Shore Park. 1-5 p.m. Free. For the first time, spend an afternoon in the Inner Harbor slurping oysters, sipping beer, and listening to live music by bluegrass bands like Them Eastport Oyster Boys and The High & Wides.

ST. MICHAELS OYSTER FEST
10/31: Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, St. Michaels. 10 a.m. Free-$18. Get your Eastern Shore oyster on with wild shucks, live music, boat rides, retriever demonstrations, and, best of all, a peek inside the museum’s working boatyard.

To read more about the local seafood scene, pick up a copy of the July issue of Baltimore magazine, on newsstands now.

We used to have to wait around for the “R” months to eat a decent oyster. Sure, we had crabs to tide us over in the summertime, but we have to admit: the wait was long. And hard.

Luckily, those days are over—thanks to refrigeration and the advent of triploid oysters, which are sterile and thus eliminate the shellfish’s summer spawning season, when their flesh is too weak and watery for market—and now oysters are readily available all year-round.

Maryland’s oyster-farming industry, also known as “aquaculture,” has grown exponentially in recent years, and with it just starting to hit its stride, local oyster-lovers are beginning to reap the rewards right here at home. Farms have been popping up all across the state and now nearly 4,000 acres of them dot our shores of the Chesapeake Bay. These days, their bounties are being shucked from their shells and served up at a growing number of restaurants, bars, street stands, and festivals.

Each farm’s oyster is a little different, picking up the “merroir,” or subtle nuances, of the waters and ways in which they were raised, much like that of a wine’s terroir. They vary in size, sweetness, and salinity, but whatever your preference, these mouth-watering mollusks were worth the wait.

Here are six of our favorites, hailing from St. Mary’s County to the southern edges of the Eastern Shore, as well as some local digs where you can slurp them up.

THE OYSTER: True Chesapeake Oyster Company‘s “Skinny Dipper”

THE FARM: St. Jerome Creek; Ridge

THE FLAVOR: Grown in a tucked away creek in St. Mary’s County near the Potomac River, these farmed favorites mingle in their local waters with the Atlantic’s high salinity for a not-too-salty, not-too-sweet “soft salt” taste. “Part of that is thanks to the unique properties of St. Jerome Creek,” says Patrick Hudson, owner of True Chesapeake Oyster Co. “Another part is our husbandry practices that keep the oyster off the bottom where mud and silt can alter the flavor.” Clean, crisp and refreshing, they’re a great go-to for a half-shell happy hour.

WHERE TO EAT THEM: The Local Oyster, Dylan’s Oyster Cellar; Ryleigh’s Oyster; The Boathouse Canton; Heavy Seas Alehouse; Oyster Bay Grille; Victoria Gastro Pub.

THE OYSTER: Chesapeake Gold Oyster‘s “Chesapeake Golds”

THE FARM: Hooper’s Island; Fishing Creek

THE FLAVOR: Hailing from Hooper’s Island on the Eastern Shore, these farmed filter feeders are a plump, medium oyster with a thick shell and a deep cup. They have a fairly salty, full flavor up front, followed by a sweet finish that makes it easy to slurp back a half-dozen or so by yourself on a sunny, summer afternoon. No cocktail sauce necessary.

<p “=””> WHERE TO EAT THEM: The Local Oyster; Thames Street Oyster House; Loch Bar; The Elephant; Nick’s Fish House & Grill; B&O American Brasserie; Cunningham’s; Christopher Daniel.

THE OYSTER: The Choptank Oyster Company‘s “Choptank Sweets”

THE FARM: Choptank River; Cambridge

THE FLAVOR: Named for the Dorchester County river in which they’re grown, these Eastern Shore shuckers are raised in floats just below the surface, which gives them a meaty texture “because it’s up at the top of the water column where food and oxygen are most abundant,” says manager Kevin McClarren. Imbued with the locale’s light salinity, they live up to their name with a mild flavor and finish that’s slightly buttery and—you guessed it—sweet.

<p “=””> WHERE TO EAT THEM: Thames Street Oyster House; Loch Bar; The Elephant; Lobo; The Boathouse Canton; Ten Ten American Bistro; The Nickel Taphouse; The Rusty Scupper; Victoria Gastro Pub.

THE OYSTER: Chesapeake Gold Oyster‘s “Holy Grails”

THE FARM: Hooper’s Island; Fishing Creek

THE FLAVOR: Saltier and smaller than their Chesapeake Gold sisters, these new CG oysters hit the market in March of this year. Also grown on Hooper’s Island, they have deep shells, meaty bodies and their initial saline burst finishes up smooth and slightly sweet. Just a squeeze of lemon will do.

WHERE TO EAT THEM: Thames Street Oyster House; Loch Bar; Nick’s Fish House & Grill, Riverside; Heavy Seas Alehouse; B&O American Brasserie; Cunningham’s; Oyster Bay Grille.

THE OYSTER: Hollywood Oyster Company‘s “Sweet Jesus” oysters

THE FARM Patuxent River; Hollywood

THE FLAVOR: A few miles north of Solomons Island, these St. Mary’s County sweets are grown in off-bottom cages in a mile-wide stretch of river that bellies up to acres upon acres of preserved park and private land. A smaller, milder oyster, they have a clean, sweet taste that’s reminiscent of cucumber with light hints of salt.

<p “=””> WHERE TO EAT THEM: Thames Street Oyster House; Loch Bar; Dylan’s Oyster Cellar; The Nickel Taphouse; B Bistro; Heavy Seas Alehouse; Cunningham’s.

THE OYSTER: Barren Island Oysters

THE FARM: Hooper’s Island; Fishing Creek

THE FLAVOR: These Eastern Shore oysters are grown in off-bottom cages on the open water just off Barren Island, a tiny, eroding dot of land just west of the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge and one of the few remaining islands on the Chesapeake Bay. Light and approachable, they’re a clean, “not-salty oyster,” as owner Tim Devine calls them, with mineral hints, plump meat and a fine, polished shell.

WHERE TO EAT THEM: Thames Street Oyster House; Dylan’s Oyster Cellar; Ryleigh’s Oyster; Christopher Daniel.

*Oyster availability varies daily.