Last year, when Jay Rohlfing was thinking about a moniker for the yet-unnamed farm-to-fork Towson restaurant where he’d act as executive chef, he made a list of garden names for inspiration. The former Chopped “cheftestant,” along with his wife, Lisa, had recently moved to a three-acre property in Hampstead (thanks in part to his first-place prize winnings from the Food Network show).

On their farm, the couple spent many hours tending to a flower, herb, and vegetable garden. So, as Rohlfing thought about the cycle of the seasons unfolding on his farm—where spring scallions begat summer strawberries, then autumn squash—the word “perennial” came to him, not only as a name for the restaurant, but as a muse for the menu.

Perennial is Atlas Restaurant Group’s first foray into the county and a rebrand of Cunningham’s, which closed in January of last year and where Rohlfing was executive chef. The transformation is dazzling.

AS ROHLFING THOUGHT ABOUT THE CYCLE OF THE SEASONS UNFOLDING ON HIS FARM, THE WORD “PERENNIAL” CAME TO HIM.

The restaurant, which opened in July, has a beautiful outdoor dining area. One might assume that was a pandemic-related touch, but it’s actually a complete coincidence. Long before the days of COVID, designer Patrick Sutton had already reimagined the space as a lush indoor/outdoor oasis in shades of green and lavender or, in his words, “a garden conservatory.”

In fact, with its wraparound terrace, walls of cedar and boxwoods, an outdoor bar, and a lounge area with fire pits, Perennial feels a world away—not only from the pandemic, but the nearby county seat with its district court and chamber of commerce.

When it was Cunningham’s, the space, set on the second floor of a charmless Towson University corporate building, was vast and antiseptic. In the redesign, Sutton created an 85-seat dining room (half the size of the former Cunningham’s interior) and a stylish bar area that feels incredibly intimate and welcoming. And even within its suburban confines, thanks to the Atlas imprimatur, including nightly live music and an area for smoking cigars, it manages to be buzzy.

Clearly, it’s filling a niche—from the get-go, the place has been busy, as city dwellers, county denizens, and Atlas acolytes rediscover the pleasures of fine dining in the ’burbs.

Perennial’s menu offers a mashup be- tween Atlas’ signature fare (high-quality steaks and chops, served à la carte with indulgent accoutrements such as crab Oscar and truffle butter) found at their other spots including Tagliata and Monarque and more composed plates (bronzino with succotash, tuna crudo with watermelon in late summer) that speak to the seasons and are deeply rooted in Rohlfing’s personal narrative.

Case in point is a creative take on fish and chips in the form of a halibut dish that’s encrusted in Utz kettle potato chips and was inspired by the chef’s fond childhood memory of tasting the crisps for the first time.

Another novel dish is the fried lobster tail with honey butter, lemon, and lavender sea salt. It’s a riff on the lobster tempura dish Rohlfing was first exposed to while working at Linwoods for 12 years. To put his own spin on the dish, he took cues from the patch of lavender growing in his own garden.

Yet another soon-to-be-signature dish, the frosted crab soup appetizer, came from conversations with his brother-in-law, the executive catering chef at Linwoods, who once told him about the local country club staple, a sort of Maryland-style gazpacho with tomato juice, half-and-half, Old Bay, and crab.

Here, Rohlfing gives the chilled soup an upgrade with roast- ed plum tomatoes, fresh herbs, fennel pollen, charred jalapeños, crème fraîche, and huge lumps of delectable Maryland crab.

Also unique is the crab fried rice, which reimagines blue crab as a key ingredient. For this dish, Rohlfing tapped the talents of the kitchen’s longtime Laotian dishwashers, who introduced him to mushroom soy, an essential element of the dish that imparts an explosion of umami flavor.

Luckily, for Rohlfing, even more inspiration is right at hand. He sources many of his ingredients—garlic scapes, beets, lemon balm, rainbow chard—from Atlas’ own nearby farm in Carroll County. And while still in his chef’s whites, he sometimes heads down to the Towson farmers market on Thursdays and scores other items from local farms, such as cases of heirloom tomatoes.

Of course, farm-to-fork fare isn’t exactly a new concept to the Baltimore area, but here, it feels fresh all over again. The kitchen doesn’t rely on just good ingredients, it leans into nature’s bounty and comes up with something that feels innovative every time.

Everything has a season, but Perennial has real staying power.

PERENNIAL 1 Olympic Pl., Towson. HOURS: Sun.-Wed. 4-10 p.m.; Thurs. 4-11 p.m.; Sat. 4-midnight. PRICES: Appetizers: $10-22; entrees: $22-59; desserts $8-12. AMBIANCE: Garden conservatory.

CH-CH CHANGES

STEM: It’s going to be a big year for Urban Pastoral—the local development firm that specializes in high-tech urban farming. In the coming months, founders J.J. Reidy and Christian De Paco are planning to unveil 3,000 square feet of hydroponic greenhouse space inside a new learning center at Green Street Academy in West Baltimore. Once it’s up and running, the project will not only serve as an educational tool for students, but it will also provide an estimated 25,000 pounds of leafy greens per year to local restaurants. The produce will certainly come in handy for STEM, the newly rebranded iteration of Reidy and De Paco’s Stall 11 inside R. House in Remington.

Beginning this Sunday, January 12, the plant-based eatery will feature a redesigned counter experience, DIY bowls and salads, and a rotating roster of seasonal items. Although there will be many new options, Stall 11 regulars will be happy to hear that favorites including the Korean barbecue cauliflower, vegan mac and cheese, and avocado BLT will remain on the menu. “R. House was created as a launchpad for food entrepreneurs, and this is the evolution of our business and vision,” Reidy said in a statement. “After three amazing years with Stall 11 at R. House, it was time for a change in concept. . .We can’t wait for Baltimore to meet STEM and to share more of the delicious plant-based dishes that we know will become new favorites.”

Friends and Family: Speaking of rebrands—and vegan and vegetarian options—Fells Point mainstay Sticky Rice is closing its doors on Tuesday, January 21 with plans to reopen as Friends and Family in March. Known for its sushi, tater tots, and wide array of plant-based options, the restaurant will soon transition into a breakfast-all-day concept that maintains its emphasis on vegan and vegetarian dishes. “As we settled into our tenth year of business, we have determined it is time to retire the current concept and expand on our core principles,” managing partner Ginny Lawhorn, who will remain at the helm of the bar program, said in a statement.

Slated construction plans include renovated bathrooms, the removal of the large sushi bar to make way for more communal seating, and Lawhorn’s curated installation of artwork by—you guessed it—friends and family of the business. The new name was also inspired by the building’s former inhabitant, Friends—which Lawhorn and her husband, owner Ronnie Pasztor, describe as a cozy neighborhood dive bar. “Friends was a local favorite driven by comradery,” Lawhorn says. “Sticky Rice built on that comradery with an inclusive menu and welcoming team. We are looking forward to expanding on these pillars and cultivating our place in the community.”

Cunningham’s: Yet another dining destination starting the decade with a refresh is this Towson hotspot, which closed its doors earlier this week. The farm-to-table restaurant will reopen this spring after a major redesign by Patrick Sutton and the expansion of its downstairs cafe. Executive chef Jay Rohlfing tells us that the decision was influenced, in part, by all of the retail and residential development happening in Towson. “We figured it was time to be part of that renaissance,” he says. Though details about the new concept are still in the works, Rohlfing confirms that the locally sourced menu will emphasize American classics and the dining space will be downsized to include more bar seating. Read more here.

OPEN

Rooster & Hen: Just when we thought Cross Street Market had everything we could ever want (from pizza and beer to pho and Haitian cuisine), the newly renovated Federal Hill staple now boasts its own mini grocery store. Located just off of the Light Street entrance, the new “market within the market” offers a selection of produce, flowers, dairy, snacks, baked goods, and prepared foods for diners to grab on the go. Husband-and-wife owners Joe McRedmond and Allison Smith, who started Rooster & Hen in Catonsville in 2016, will also use their new space to continue Lucky Pantry—the store’s home meal kit program that now offers pick-up at the market every Monday. The new space also features a full kitchen for the owners to host food pop-ups, cooking classes, and other programs that contribute to their community-focused mantra.

The Veranda at The Milton Inn: Executive chef Brian Boston has launched an extension of this fine-dining den in Sparks. What was previously the outdoor patio is now The Veranda, an enclosed lounge highlighting a stone fireplace and retractable roof for the warmer months. It will also be a venue for live jazz and feature its own menu of drinks and small plates including crabmeat cocktail, charcuterie samples, and deconstructed s’mores that diners can roast at their tables.

The past year has been a banner one for chef Jay Rohlfing. He took first place on the Food Network’s Chopped in June. His son, August, joined the family, including big sister, Scarlett, in October. And earlier this week it was announced that Rohlfing would take on a leadership role and spearhead the rebranding of Towson’s now-closed Cunningham’s, as well as overseeing the sister spot Cunningham’s Café and the operation’s wholesale bread business.

“It’s a major responsibility to represent something,” he says, “but it’s also a great blessing.” And just in case the always humble chef gets less humble with each accomplishment, his family keeps him in check.

“People ask me how it’s going, and I’ll say, ‘Scarlett is screaming for ice cream, Gus is drooling, and my wife, Lisa, is yelling about how I load the dishwasher. In other words, it’s business as usual.’” Between working on menu development and meetings with Patrick Sutton to discuss the restaurant’s redesign, we caught up with the chef.

What led to the decision to close Cunningham’s and rebrand?
One of the things that put the timing into perspective was seeing the huge cranes outside the building and the fact that Towson is starting to change. The high-rise, high-end condos that are going up hit our demographics perfectly, and we want to be the go-spot for the people living there. Every restaurant has to reinvent itself at some point, and we’ve been in Towson for seven years. We figured it was time to be a part of that renaissance.

What can you tell us about the new space?
We’ve seen such a great bar business, we’re busy on weekends and weekdays. We want to create a more open, larger bar area and then have a smaller intimate dining space. We’re still in the creative process of planning that, but we’re hoping that the restaurant will be more like 80 seats than the 150 seats we had at Cunningham’s. As much as we enjoyed the space, what we want to do is design a space that creates a buzz and a vibe that’s is more intimate and social. We are hoping to double size of the bar that we have now. We will still have around 30 seats with some lounge area, as well.

I know you’re still in the planning stages, but what can you tell us about what the concept will be?
We really want to tell a story. When people go out to eat, they want to be taken away to an experience. Patrick Sutton, who will design the space, is so good at telling stories. Good food is good food, and people will return for that. But for longevity, you have to have a clear vision and a clear story.

Now that you’re running operations, will we still see you in the kitchen?
I’m heading the leadership team, but I will still be the restaurant’s executive chef—that’s where my heart is.

Are there any specifics you can share about the menu?
We’re going to continue to source locally. One thing that really attracted me about being at Cunningham’s was not just the role, but how we became a member of the community using local products and keeping those vendors involved here. What I can say is that the menu will be classic American.

What will happen to Cunningham’s Café during the renovation?

The café will stay open. The fun thing is that, during the renovation, we will have extended hours in the café and be open for dinner every night until 9 p.m., starting next week. I’m going to use that kitchen as a great R&D kitchen to test dishes for the restaurant.

Depending on what we see, most likely, the café will stick to its new hours. The café has turned into this spot where Towson students like to go and do their studying. Instead of getting eggs over easy at the Towson Diner, they’re getting more artisan-created food and free Wi-Fi. We are seeing this great influx of students and people who work remotely. We are also going to enclose the outdoor dining area, which will add about 40 seats.

Please tell me that you’re still going to have that wonderful bread and baked goods.
Upstairs, the restaurant kitchen will become the total kitchen that we use for the café and restaurant. Downstairs, the bakery, where there was a shared kitchen space, will double in size.

How is the county diner different that the city diner?
It’s a different dynamic for sure. We had an amazing New Year’s Eve this year, the best in the history of Cunningham’s, but at the same time, the restaurant emptied out at 10 p.m. There’s also a difference in some of the foods that sell. Octopus, for example has performed really well here, foie gras is a hard sell.

I know you’ve had to let some of your staff go during the transition. That must be emotional.
Monday was a hard day. How do I explain to the employees that this is just a transition? But it was received well by the staff. [Dining room manager] Laura organized a great list for them to find work in the interim with restaurateurs like Linwood Dame and Alex Smith—and some of them are working already. There’s no playbook on having to shut a restaurant down for renovation—it has been a learning process for me. I care about people, and I wanted to make sure that people are taken care of. How can you expect someone to come back and work for you in the future if you don’t care about them in the present?

You won $10,000 in prize money when you came in first place on Chopped. What did you do with the money?
We are currently living in a Cape Cod-style house in Parkville. The goal is to purchase some land a little bit further north in Baltimore County, so we are saving for that.

So, if we don’t see you working in the new restaurant, will we get to see you on the Food Network again?
I’m excited for next opportunity—I’ve been contacted multiple times.

OPEN

The Brewer’s Art Tavern: A few months ago, we told you about the Howard County spinoff of Mt. Vernon’s beloved brewpub, The Brewer’s Art. Now, Howard County locals can finally enjoy the craft drafts and upscale pub grub that diners have come to know and love in Charm City. The tavern officially opened last week, offering eats like massive charcuterie boards, soft pretzels, grilled cheese with bacon-onion jam, local bratwurst with Resurrection beer mustard, and the classic Brewer’s Art rosemary-garlic fries. Of course, there’s also 13 taps (including the likes of Beazly and Birdhouse), and a lengthy wine and cocktail list. Boasting more of a rustic feel than the dimly lit flagship, the Highland hangout features stained woods, exposed stone, colorful paintings, and its own outdoor patio. 13380 Clarksville Pike, Highland. 301-854-1000

Ceremony Coffee Roasters: Revelers in Federal Hill will be happy to hear that the ultimate hangover cure has landed inside Cross Street Market. The newest Ceremony location (others are stationed in Mt. Vernon and Harbor Point) is now officially up and running inside the newly renovated property. Stop by to grab an espresso, cortado, mocha, or seasonal sip like the Tokyo Spring matcha latte with elderflower and almond milk. There’s also spicy avocado toast and plenty of pastries to quell morning cravings. The next vendor on deck to open inside Cross Street this week is Vietnamese soup-and-sub shop, Phubs. 1065 S. Charles St. 443-708-5284

Saffron Grill: Fells Point is really becoming a choose-your-own-dining-adventure destination. On the heels of Broadway Market’s debut, the waterfront locale has also welcomed this new American-Pakistani kitchen. Neighboring yet-to-open boutique Mint + Major on South Broadway, the yellow storefront is home to authentic samosas, kebabs, gyros, and tikka dishes. But there is also a bountiful burger menu that lists options like the Strogonoff Burger (sour cream, grilled onions, and Swiss cheese) and the “Cowboy” topped with grilled mushrooms and bacon. The 2,300-square-foot space is decorated with neutral tones, comfy booth seating, spiral-shaped light fixtures, and a semi-open kitchen. 616 S. Broadway. 410-558-1234

Serenity Wine Bar and Cafe: In keeping with its name, this new Locust Point cafe is ready to help neighbors feel relaxed with glasses of self-serve wine. Now open in the former home of Our House on Hull Street, the spot is equipped with 16 pour-yourself taps that guests can access using a prepaid swipe card. To pair with the vino, owner Nneka Bilial has rolled out a menu of thin-crust pizzas (think veggie, grilled chicken, and BBQ toppings), baked pastas, subs, salads, and desserts. The casual spot features exposed brick and artsy wine-bottle decor. “I wanted to highlight the city, but also make it feel really cozy,” she told us in April. “I want it to feel like a home away from home.” 1211 Hull St. 443-708-0392

COMING SOON

Landshark Bar & Grill: Get pumped, Parrotheads. Soon, locals strolling past the Light Street Pavilion at Harborplace will be enticed by a local iteration of Jimmy Buffet’s famed restaurant, which will most likely have “Margaritaville” perpetually blaring through the speakers on its outdoor patio. Landshark Bar & Grill operates locations everywhere from New Jersey to Florida, and it’s slated to open in the Inner Harbor later this year. Locals are hoping that the spot—which features island-inspired fare, tropical drinks, and plenty of hearty nods to “Cheeseburger in Paradise”—will be the first of many new tenants that help to revitalize Harborplace, which was plagued with closures last year. The development was officially put into receivership last week after its former owner defaulted on a $76 million loan. 301 Light St., Ste. 1645

NEWS

Chef David Thomas Heads to the Beard House: Our own David Thomas of Ida B’s Table is one of seven African-American chefs from across the country who have been invited to prepare a special Juneteenth celebration dinner at the hallowed James Beard House in New York City next week. “This has been a dream of mine for quite some time,” Thomas posted to Instagram. “To be doing it for an event like this is a gift that I will cherish for the rest of my life.” Alongside chefs including Chris Williams of Lucille’s in Houston and Shannon Mustipher of Glady’s in Brooklyn, Thomas will assist in cooking soul food dishes like catfish with grits and shrimp gravy, barbecued quail with smoked watermelon, and butter beans with crispy okra and pork cracklings.

Chef Jay Rohlfing Competing on Chopped: Another local chef making us proud this week is Jay Rohlfing of Cunningham’s in Towson, who announced that he will appear on an episode of Food Network’s Chopped this Tuesday, June 18 at 9 p.m. For fans who want to cheer on the chef at the restaurant, Cunningham’s will host a viewing party at its bar starting at 8 p.m. We’re feeling hopeful that we will add Rohlfing to our list of local Chopped champions, which also includes Thomas of Ida B’s and chef Johntay Bedingfield of La Food Marketa. 1 Olympic Pl., Towson. 410-339-7730

SHUT

DuClaw Brewing Co.: Earlier this week, DuClaw Brewing’s longtime restaurant inside Arundel Mills Mall announced that it would pour its final pints—and serve its last crab pretzels—on Wednesday, June 12. “Unfortunately, the mall is no longer a place we can call home,” reads a message posted to Facebook. “For a variety of circumstances, most outside of our control, this will be our last week.” Mall officials recently confirmed to the Baltimore Business Journal that the spot will be replaced by another beer bar, Yard House, later this year. 7000 Arundel Mills Circle. 410-799-1166

What is it about eating outside that seems to make food taste better? Maybe it’s the sunshine, or the breath of fresh air. Perhaps it’s the touch of cool grass beneath our feet, or the primal smell of grill marks on a well-seared steak. All we know is, we don’t need an excuse to pack a picnic. Whether it’s an extra-long lunch break or the start of the weekend, in the rolling countryside or right here in the city, fill a basket with these Maryland-made treats, spread out a blanket, and dig in.

Cunningham’s Baguette: Think of the baguette as the foundation for every picnic. Tear it in half and commence the feast. The Wine Source, 3601 Elm St.

Parts & Labor Charcuterie: The house-cured coppa, aged pork loin, and spicy bologna salami from this Remington butcher shop are musts for warm-weather spreads. Parts & Labor, 2600 N. Howard St.

FireFly Farms Black & Blue: Handmade in the mountains of Garrett County, this goat’s milk marvel delivers a welcome bite of blue funk. Whole Foods, 1001 Fleet St.

Hawks Hill Creamery Chesapeake Cheddar: This Old Bay-infused cheddar imparts a smoky flavor to snack on all summer long. Graul’s Market, 7713 Bellona Ave., Towson

Cherry Glen Goat Cheese: The popular MoCo cheesemonger makes a variety of piquant products, but the Monocacy Ash is its crème de la crème. Graul’s Market, 7713 Bellona Ave., Towson

Waxing Kara Honey: A drizzle of this harvested honey tempers even the spiciest of charcuterie. Honey House, 10209 Grand Central Ave., Owings Mills

McCutcheon’s Cherry Preserves: Use this old-fashioned chunky cherry spread as a tart topper for any type of cheese. Eddie’s of Roland Park, 5113 Roland Ave.

Hex Ferments Beet Pickles: With a hint of ginger, these briny beets provide the tangy crunch you never knew you needed. Hex Ferments, 529 E. Belvedere Ave.

Kinderhook Snacks: Whether you’re indulging in bite-size baked cheese stamps or spice-speckled smoked nuts, one handful of Kinderhook will never suffice. Trohv, 921 W. 36th St.

Manor Hill Brewing Grisette: This farmhouse ale out of Ellicott City is
like the love child of wheat beer and
dry white wine. Remington Wine Company, 329 W. 29th St.

Atwater’s Local Rye Crackers: These buttery crisps are great on their own but also ideal for all forms of scooping and spreading. 798 Kenilworth Dr., Towson

Trinacria Foods Olives: At this overflowing olive bar, make your own mix of purple, green, and even garlic-covered goodies. Trinacria Foods, 406 N. Paca St. 

Modern Cook Shop Pickles: Ask for a pint of special housemade pickles, like these addictive bread-and-butter chips. Modern Cook Shop, 901 S. Wolfe St.

Rooster & Hen Produce: Round out your basket with juicy local apples. Rooster + Hen, 2302 Frederick Road, Catonsville