On the back walls on the first floor of No Way Rosé, past the Instagram-worthy neon sign, beyond the wall of faux flowers and bistro-style tables, are oversized images of two titans of gastronomy. In one, Anthony Bourdain, bags under his eyes, is extending his right middle finger directly toward, well, everyone in the place. In the other, famed Michelin-starred French chef Paul Bocuse, his toque reaching the ceiling, points to a tattoo of a rooster on his right arm.

Message received. Ashish Alfred’s restaurant, bar, and lounge in Federal Hill is a French cafe unlike any other in the city.

“It speaks a lot to me as a cook,” Alfred says. “Although my background is rooted in very traditional French cooking, I don’t like to take it too seriously. There’s the grandfather of French cooking, Paul Bocuse, on the wall, and he’s being kind of playful. Just next to him is Tony Bourdain, who laughed in the face of all of that for a long time.”

Alfred, purveyor of the more decorous Duck Duck Goose in Fells Point, wanted his latest venture to have a bit of whimsy. The name itself is a clever nod to the restaurant’s location in the neighborhood, near the late great dive, No Way Jose. It opened last March, with a menu that included upscale offerings like beef tartare, bucatini, and burrata. But, as spring rolled into summer, Alfred noticed that it was drawing a younger crowd than at his other restaurants, and those patrons were as interested in the scene as they were in the food.

“It was a good gut check for me as a chef,” Alfred says. “You can make the best escargot, you can make the best duck confit, foie gras, but if there’s no market for it, it doesn’t matter. As a chef you can get caught up in your own juju. I just assumed that great classic French food would work here. It didn’t.”

So Alfred shuttered the restaurant in September and set out to reimagine the space for a younger audience. And it reopened in November with an entirely new feel.

While Bourdain, Bocuse, and those pretty pink flowers remain, Alfred debuted a new, more approachable menu. Entrees are still available in the dining room upstairs, but the downstairs space has been transformed into a bar and lounge exclusively. Live music and/or DJs are featured Thursdays through Sundays, and when they’re not there, upbeat music pumps through the speakers.

True to the restaurant’s name, rosé, which is clearly having a moment, is featured in some cocktails. The Menage a Framboise, a frozen combination of rosé, vodka, raspberries, honey, coriander, and cherry liquor, reminded us of an adult slushy. More standard albeit fancifully named drinks are available as well, like the Paris Loves My Oui Oui—mezcal with grappa, passion fruit, nutmeg, agave, and cherry bitters. If you want to be noticed, order the Serendipité, a bourbon-based libation that is finished using a torch lighter to smoke its contents.

Downstairs, smaller shared plates are available. Most of the ones we tried in November were quite good. Chicken-fried lamp chops are pounded flat in the kitchen, fried, and served with a tangy whipped feta and dill sauce. It’s among the most inventive takes on lamb we’ve encountered.

Another winner was the tuna tartare. Fresh pieces of fish doused in sesame oil, a bit of hoisin, and some lime juice pop when eaten on crunchy fried wonton shells. Poutine—fried in duck fat and smothered in gravy and cheese curds—is the perfect dish for the downstairs’ new party vibe. It’s a great accompaniment to a first drink, or a gateway to several more.

The mozzarella stick—quite likely the fattest one you’ll ever see—is hand-breaded and served with a pleasingly sweet tomato sauce and roasted garlic. Again, it’s a clever take on a bar food staple.

Although the entree selection is limited, the ones we ate on an earlier visit were excellent. As at his other restaurants, Alfred’s signature duck confit shines. Nearly identical to the version served at Duck Duck Goose, it was an impressively juicy piece of bone-in meat covered with crispy skin. It shows the simple yet sophisticated inclination that’s made Alfred a rising star in the culinary world, and it’s not to be missed. A bowl of mussels was also quite good, and the French fries that accompanied them were crunchy and tasty.

After dinner we were stuffed, but we forged ahead and ordered dessert. Pastry chef Ana Pino’s chocolate-hazelnut mousse was sweet but not overbearingly rich. We somehow managed to finish it all, and we’d like to think that Bourdain and Bocuse would have approved of our empty plates.

NO WAY ROSÉ: 31 E. Cross St., 443-438-6780. HOURS: Wed.-Sun., 4 p.m.-1 a.m. PRICES: Shares: $9-21; mains: $20-25; desserts: $14. AMBIANCE: A European party.

Summery Salad w/ Champagne Vinaigrette

Jerry Trice, Gunther & Co.

Who doesn’t love a great salad, especially when the temperatures soar? This salad features a veritable garden of seasonal vegetables and pairs perfectly with grilled shrimp or Maryland lump crabmeat. Think of it as an effortless main course.

INGREDIENTS
8 ounces green beans
2 ears of corn
8 slices of bacon, roughly chopped
1⁄2 cucumber, English or Kirby
1⁄8 red onion, small
1-2 heirloom tomatoes
2 heads Bibb lettuce
1⁄4 ounce fresh chives
4 ounces chèvre, room temperature

DIRECTIONS

1. Blanch green beans in heavily salted boiling water for 4-5 minutes. Shock in ice water bath.

2. Repeat with corn on the cob. Once chilled remove from water.

3. Dry corn and cut from cob.

4. Towel dry green beans and cut to 1-inch lengths. Render chopped bacon over medium heat until crispy and drain on paper towels. Halve cucumber, remove seeds and cut into 1⁄4-inch half moons. Slice onion. Quarter tomatoes into wedges, season with salt and pepper. Cut chives into 1⁄4-inch lengths.

FOR CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE

Add 1 diced shallot and 1⁄2 cup Champagne vinegar to bowl. Season with salt and black pepper. Allow to macerate for 30 minutes. Strain vinegar from shallots into blender. Reserve shallots. Add 11⁄2 tbsp. Dijon to vinegar and blend. Slowly add 11⁄2 cups canola oil to emulsify. Set aside. Add reserved shallots and salt and pepper, as needed.

Serves four.

Pea Soup w/Crème Fraîche

Ashish Alfred, Duck Duck Goose

Nothing says summer like this gorgeous green soup. “I love this recipe for a few reasons, but mainly because its a dead simple stunner—the little black dress of soups in my opinion,” says Alfred. “It’s important to take your time so you get that beautiful bright green color and taste, taste, taste.”

INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 shallots, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, chopped white parts of a large leek, sliced thinly
2 medium Idaho potatoes peeled and diced small (hold these in a bowl of water until you’re ready to use them
or they’ll turn brown)
4 1⁄2 cups vegetable stock (low-sodium or unsalted)
1 pound frozen peas
Kosher salt and white pepper

DIRECTIONS
1. Blanch peas in rapidy boiling water just until the turn bright green and then immediately strain them and put them into a bowl of ice water. It’s important to have your strainer and the ice water ready before hand.
2. Add the oil, butter, shallots and garlic to a large saucepan and sauté over low heat for 6-7 minutes until the shallots and garlic are soft.
3. Add the leek, cook for an additional
3 minutes before adding diced potatoes and sautéing for 7-8 minutes.
4. Add stock and increase heat to medium, cook until potatoes are tender.
5. Add blanched peas, simmer for
2 minutes, turn off heat and season with salt and white pepper.
6. Blend everything in pot until its smooth (add a few ice cubes as you’re blending, it will help hold the color) and then pass it through a fine mesh sieve.
7. Add salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Ladle the soup into bowls and spoon over whipped crème fraîche. Serves eight.

Zero-Proof Watermelon Crush

Ashish Alfred, Duck Duck Goose

As a sober chef, Ashish Alred is always looking for ways to create alcohol-free drinks that are as enticing as any boozy cocktail. This watermelon crush is juicy, thirst-quenching, and oh-so-easy on the eyes. Be sure to buy a seedless watermelon to make your job easier. Cheers!

INGREDIENTS
5 one-inch “chunks” of watermelon
4 ounces Seedlip citrus
1 ounce simple syrup
7-8 mint leaves
1 ounce lemon juice
Ginger beer
1 sprig of mint for garnish

DIRECTIONS
1. Cut watermelon into chunks.
2. Muddle watermelon and mint in shaker.
3. Add everything but the ginger beer.
4. Stir well.
5. Pour the mixture so its just a little over halfway up your glass.
6. Top with ice and a little ginger beer.
7. Garnish with the mint sprig.
8. Enjoy!

Cuban Flan with Blueberry Reduction

Jerry Pellegrino, Schola

Chef Jerry Pellegrino says he’s obsessed with making—and eating—this Cuban flan. “It differs from the Spanish version by adding cream cheese to the custard,” he says. “This makes it a little bit more dense but also much more forgiving in the oven. Garnish with some fruit and a dollop of whipped cream and it’s a lovely summertime dessert.”

INGREDIENTS
3⁄4 cup sugar

1 8-ounce cream cheese bar

6 eggs

1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk

1 12-ounce can evaporated milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Dash of cinnamon

1⁄4 teaspoon salt

DIRECTIONS
1. In a saucepan, set over medium heat, caramelize sugar until golden brown and quickly pour into a 9-inch cake pan, making sure it covers the bottom. Let cool.
2. In a large bowl, soften cream cheese with the back of a large slotted spoon until creamy and smooth.
3. Mix in eggs, one at a time. Wait until well combined before adding an additional egg. When mixture thins, you can switch over to a whisk. Whisk in remaining ingredients and pour into cake pan.
4. Set the an in a water bath and bake in a 350 Farenheit oven until set in the center but still jiggly, about 40 minutes.
5. Remove from oven and remove from water bath. Cool to room temperature.
6. Run a knife around the edge of the an. Place a large plate over the an and carefully invert the cake pan allowing the an to drop onto the plate.
7. Garnish with your favorite fruits, a mint sprig, or whipped cream.

FOR TOPPING
Bring one cup of frozen blueberries, 1-2 tbsp. sugar, and 1⁄4 cup of water to boil. As soon as it boils, turn to low heat and simmer. Reduce until sauce thickens, about 10 minutes. Drizzle across flan. Serves eight.

Ashish Alfred, owner of Duck Duck Goose in Fells Point, as well as Duck Duck Goose and George’s Chophouse in Bethesda, has long shared his harrowing story of drug addiction. Ironically, he says, in some ways getting sober—exactly six years ago this month—has helped him cope with the COVID crisis.

“People in sobriety are almost better armed for this,” says Alfred. “We are somewhat accustomed to being with our own thoughts and dealing with those things and processing things.”

Hospitality workers are particularly poised for survival, he says. “Restaurant people are some of the toughest people in the world—we will find a way to get all of our people back to work and we will find a way to come back better than before, though it’s going to be a tough road getting there.”

How are you doing?
What’s really tough is that any time you find a moment of peace, the first thing that crosses your mind is your staff. We do our due diligence to make sure that everyone who works for us is within the letter of the law as far as their immigration status goes, but, in spite of that, people are still able to get forged documents and get hired. I worry about that group of people very, very much and it gives me a very uneasy, almost nauseating feeling to think about how these people are getting through. These people have worked so hard, be it a year or eight years, to build a life for themselves. For them to not know where their next meal is coming from is awful.

You’ve had your struggles, you’ve been brought to your knees from drug addiction—has that steeled you to survive this?
I’m not one to preach to anyone, but I would give caution that sooner or later, we will come out on the other side of this. If people don’t take steps to care for themselves in the right way during this downtime, it’s going to be very difficult to transition back to regular life at the end of all this. Sleeping all day is not the answer, drinking all day is not the answer. My two cents that I’ve given my staff is to try to find some sense of normalcy.

Everyone I know in my sober network has been doing pretty well, though I’m sure that’s not the case for everyone. For me, it knocked me out of my routine—it messed up my eating, sleeping, and gym schedule. For the first six or eight days, I was unreachable. I was hardly eating. I was lying in bed all day and sleeping. I was super-depressed.

“If people don’t take steps to care for themselves in the right way during this downtime, it’s going to be very difficult to transition back to regular life at the end of all this. Sleeping all day is not the answer, drinking all day is not the answer.”
—Ashish Alfred

I know you emptied your inventory after you closed and gave the food to your staff. That must have been such a difficult day.
It was heartbreaking. I cried in front of the staff. I didn’t know what to tell them. These people have come to me for everything, ‘Can you help me fill out this paper for my daughter’s school?’ Of if they buy a car, they want to bring the car to me so I can see it. It was an indescribable event.

You’ve been outspoken about encouraging consumers not to use dining apps, even making an Instagram video with a plea to consumers. Can you talk about that?
Restaurants in Baltimore and D.C. have done well because we’ve come together as family to support each other. I’m not in a position where I can donate a lot of money to a whole bunch of people, but if I can somehow make a difference and save restaurants from paying super high commissions, then that’s a good day at the office.

[Dining app companies] are saying, ‘Hey help us help restaurants. Order from them now to help them out.’ They’ll say no delivery fees, well that does nothing for the restaurant. I’d like to see them waive their fees until we see our way out of this thing.

You haven’t been offering carryout, but I know you plan to start this week. Why the change of heart?

We’re going to try to do takeout, and, because I’ve made such a stink of it, were going to try to be open without the apps. We will launch this Friday at all three restaurants. People need to realize that the money restaurants are making from carryout is just to support their staff. No one is making money. People are doing this just to keep their staff afloat.

What kinds of things will be on the carryout menu at Duck Duck Goose?

We are going to do foods that will travel well and we will include a set of instructions for heating. We will definitely have our foie gras tournedos. Nothing makes quarantine better than foie gras. We will also have risotto and zero-proof cocktails for people who are tired of drinking or people who are tired of drinking soda water.

“I have learned from this that I am not my restaurants, my restaurants are not me. Life and things will be okay. That’s not what anyone wants to hear right now, but it’s important to remember that.”

What do you think the landscape will look like when this is over?
I had a dinner scheduled at the James Beard house in May, which was cancelled. I had the opportunity to talk to their director, Izabela Wojcik, and we talked for 30 minutes about what restaurants will look like at the end of this. I am sure it will be a little while before people are eager to pile on top of each other into a place, or wait in an eight-by-eight foyer while they are on a 45-minute wait for a table, but I’m sure we will find a way.

Will people leave the profession?
If you’ve been a restauranteur for five, 10, or 20 years, you’re not going to say, ‘I’m going to be an accountant.’ No, you’re going to go right back to restaurants. People will always need a place to go eat.

What have you learned from all of this?

The liberating thing that might be important for other restaurateurs to hear is that this is a very busy business—we give all of ourselves to this, whether you’ve got a bar that serves wings and pizza or a fine-dining restaurant. If you’re in the restaurant business, it really takes up a lot of your time, but I have learned from this that I am not my restaurants, my restaurants are not me. Life and things will be okay. That’s not what anyone wants to hear right now, but it’s important to remember that.

What’s the first thing you’re going to do when this is over?

I’m going to hug my mother. And put a post-dated paycheck in the hands of every single person who works for me.

Bushfires continue to ravage Australia, with at least 28 people dead, more than 3,000 homes destroyed or damaged, and an estimated billion-plus animals lost, according to CNN. Sadly, the unprecedented bushfires have been exacerbated by widespread drought and persistent heat.

In an effort to aid the country and give back, Baltimore chefs are taking matters into their own hands. Both La Food Marketa and Duck Duck Goose will donate proceeds from dinner and brunch service on specific days this weekend in an attempt to help Australia fight the wildfires and rehabilitate.

La Food Marketa, the Pikesville sister restaurant of The Food Market in Hampden, will donate 50 percent of funds from brunch this Sunday, January 19 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., to the Australian Red Cross. The event will be the spot’s latest “Brunch for a Benefit,” an ongoing series that has previously supported organizations such as The Movember Foundation and The Alzheimer’s Association.

“When we opened La Food Marketa, we wanted it to be a community restaurant,” says Chad Gauss, executive chef and co-owner. “We feel that many people want to give back and have sorrow and empathy for what’s happening in Australia, but they might not be familiar with how to give back. We wanted to create an opportunity for people to do that.”

At La Food Marketa, expect a brunch packed with fun takes on omelets, eggs benedict, and pancakes. Highlights include pancake enchiladas stuffed with turkey, cheese, bacon and topped with syrup, as well as the “El Benedict,” featuring cured ham, cheese bread, and Mexican ketchup. As an added bonus, many brunch dishes can be modified to be gluten-free.

Down in Fells Point, Baltimoreans can dine for a good cause at Duck Duck Goose, where all of the proceeds from dinner this Friday night, January 17, will go toward Ellen Degeneres’ Australia Bushfire Relief fund on GoFundMe. Owner Ashish Alfred’s Bethesda location of Duck Duck Goose and his nearby George’s Chophouse will also donate all Friday-night proceeds to the relief fund.

“What’s happening [in Australia] is real—you can’t make that up,” Alfred says. “As chefs, we get into this business because we want to make people happy, care for people, and nourish them. Restaurants become part of the communities we’re in. And I think this was good opportunity for us to get involved in something important overseas.”

Alfred says he and his team kicked around ideas for how to help, until they saw that Degeneres had set up a relief fund and decided to get behind it.

In addition to the signature cheese boards, dry-aged ribeye burger, and honey-roasted duck at Duck Duck Goose, Friday-night diners can also expect a raffle at each of the three restaurants. Alfred says details are still being finalized, but prizes might include giveaways from other local dining destinations and spa treatments.

“I think it’s going to be a fun night,” he adds. “The feedback online has been huge. It’ll be great to see that many people come together for a good cause.”

Do you ever love a restaurant so much you want to take a piece of it home with you? And no, we’re not talking about petty theft of salt and pepper shakers or a short-lived box of leftovers.

Many beloved local restaurants sell swag, so you can flaunt your adoration for them anytime. Our own collection includes a navy blue long-sleeve from McFaul’s IronHorse Tavern of Parkville, a coffee mug dotted with strawberries from Ocean City’s Bayside Skillet, and a bumper sticker from the ever-quirky Papermoon Diner.

And while you might get a new addition to your closet, the restaurant also gets a boost in the name of free advertising.

Restaurant consultant Arlene Spiegel of Arlene Spiegel & Associates in New York City notes that restaurant merchandising is a way to make sure that a given brand stays with a guest.

“Whether it’s a T-shirt, an umbrella, or a jar of barbecue sauce,” Spiegel says, “the whole idea is that the brand is extended beyond the brick and mortar of the restaurant itself.”

If you want to show support for your favorite spot, check out some of these nifty merch options.

The Charmery Engraved Ice-Cream Scoop ($20)

Why stop at simply taking home a pint of one of the Charmery’s eccentric flavors? Recreate the experience by treating yourself to an ice-cream scoop engraved with the shop’s logo.

Baby’s on Fire Mug (10)

Show off your love for records and your dedication to caffeine by grabbing a cute white mug with the logo of Mt. Vernon’s finest. Better still, stop in for
a cup of coffee and buy a mug for whomever you call ‘baby.’

Sticky Rice Star Wars Shirt ($16)

Whether you’re a sci-fi buff or a connoisseur of high-quality tater tots, Sticky Rice has something for everyone. Meld the two passions together by checking out this T-shirt, and we can (almost) guarantee that you’ll be the only person in the room wearing tater-shooting-spaceship chic.

Duck Duck Goose Baseball Hat ($30)

There aren’t many things in this world cuter than baby ducks, which is why we adore the embroidered ducks on the back of the hats from this Fells Point eatery. For a fashion-forward look, wear it backwards to display the ducks to the world.

Ashish Alfred’s scars—at least the ones that are visible to the naked eye—are mostly healed over. “I used to cut myself,” he says, as he searches his arm to show off a scar. “You can’t see it much anymore, because I have it all covered up in tattoos—but it’s still there.”

After a moment of scanning, he finds what he’s looking for. There’s the scar tissue on his left forearm masked by a skull tattoo. In many ways, the scar—and others like it—is a metaphor for his life, as the once weeping wounds, made with a razor blade during a darker chapter of his life, have formed a patch of thickened keloid tissue. At that time in his life, he says, “I was very much trying to die, whether I was flat out trying to kill myself or just having no regard for my own health and safety whatsoever. It was really only by some miracle that I didn’t die.”

To the outside observer, with his good looks and three successful restaurants, including Duck Duck Goose in Fells Point and Bethesda, Alfred appears to be the picture of success. And he is a success story, though it’s been a long time coming.

Way back when he was being bullied on the playground—for being Indian, for being slight, for just being—the Silver Spring-born chef had to learn to stand up for himself.

“I had switched schools in the fourth grade because I was getting picked on and was starting to come undone,” he says. By middle school, the bullying started up again. “I was like ‘Fuck it,’” says the 33-year-old chef, whose friends call him Al. “If I’m going to get picked on, I’m going to fight back. I was very, very insecure, so any little thing would set me off.”

Alfred did not have it any easier at home. As a toddler, he playfully pounced on the chest of his alcoholic father, Rajesh, and was thrown to the ground, shattering his femur. In the aftermath, Alfred wore a body cast for months. His mother, Veena, did her best, but, as the primary breadwinner and owner a string of assisted living homes, she spent a fair amount of time away from home. Alfred recalls that “her moods revolved around whatever his mood was.”

“I remember my father being a nasty drunk as a child,” says Alfred. “I also remember him being nasty sober, too. When he wasn’t drinking, he was doing the white-knuckle thing. He was sitting there thinking about when he could drink again, so you could never be quiet enough or not move enough. My mom will say that I was a very good boy when I was little. She has said, ‘It’s almost like you knew to behave.’”

By contrast, in school, Alfred acted out. “I bought pot and starting drinking for the first time in eighth grade,” he says. “Being at home was misery and being at school was an escape from that.”

Alfred also carried a secret, which he’s just starting to grapple with and acknowledge now. “I was molested by a few different people growing up,” he says. “They weren’t family members. When it happened to me, I felt like it was my fault. I felt like I was doing something dirty that I wasn’t supposed to talk about, something wrong, so how dare I speak about it because I was part of it, too. But truth be told, I was 5, 6, 7 years old. What would I have known to say? If you carry around a bag of bricks on your right shoulder, your right shoulder is going to hurt after a while.”

The downward spiral continued into his adolescent years. To protect himself, Alfred projected a disaffected, don’t-mess-with-me persona. He’d get high and drunk and sneak out of class to smoke cigarettes. “I just didn’t want to do my homework or go to school,” he says. His surrogate family of friends was a bunch of other like-minded, self-destructive types. “All I had to do to stay with them was drink and party,” he says. “That’s where I learned to be violent—and then it didn’t matter that I was smaller. I figured out pretty quickly that that was a little bit of a family for me.”

After graduating from Magruder High School in Rockville 2005, he worked odd kitchen jobs between Washington, D.C., and Bethesda—bar back, bouncer, and barista—but was always focused on his next fix. He pawned his father’s Rolex to get drug money. Cocaine was his substance of choice. “Imagine going out and having four or five drinks and feeling buzzed,” he says. “Cocaine set me back to zero. Cocaine provided a sense of euphoria. It made it easier to consume more alcohol and take more Percocet—it was a numbing mission for me.”

His one source of solace and seemingly only diversion—beyond getting blitzed—was watching the Food Network. “I knew that my life was going to be in the service industry one way or the other,” he says. “That’s where I was happiest. I liked the hours. I liked the drinking. I liked the partying—I liked all of it.”

So, in 2008, after promising Veena that he would clean up his act, Alfred attended The French Culinary Institute in New York City. At the time, neither he, nor his family, understood the extent of his addiction.

“Cocaine provided a sense of euphoria. It made it easier to consume alcohol. It was a numbing mission.”

In his contemporary Canton townhome, Alfred engages in a game of fetch with Marco, his energetic Belgian Malinois pup, named for his idol, famed British chef Marco Pierre White. Sitting on a stylish cream linen chair at the dining room table, he’s surrounded by calming, neutral colors and inspirational artwork. (“Give thanks,” reads one that’s propped against the wall.) In hopes of helping others, Alfred is disarmingly open and honest as he talks about the havoc that drugs and alcohol wreaked on his life until he finally got sober on April 12, 2014.

On one particular binge while still a culinary student, he traveled to Ocean City and, in his words, got “yacked” out of his mind. “I finally pull up to my mother’s house at midnight, and she takes one look at me and is like, ‘You have to be at school in the morning.’” He stops for emphasis, just to be clear that what she’s asking of him seemed Sisyphean at the time. “It’s midnight,” he continues. “I’m at my mother’s house in Rockville, and my school is in Manhattan. She puts me in a taxi because if I wasn’t at school the next day, I would have failed. I’m doing blow in the taxi on the way to Union Station. I get to the train station, and I’m paranoid because I’m high and there’s Amtrak police all around—I dump the blow, so I’m coming down, which is miserable.”

The next day, Alfred actually made it to class, but his teacher allowed him to sleep it off in a nearby locker room so that he didn’t miss yet another class and get kicked out of school.

Alfred tells his tale with complete clarity, as if it happened just yesterday. The cocaine, he says, keeps you from blacking out, so you tend to remember everything. Whether purposely or not, he draws out his stories, recounts every detail, which allows time for the horror of what he’s saying to sink in. Every story is a well-told cautionary tale that leads the listener to the same inarguable conclusion: Don’t do drugs.

Despite his addiction, Alfred excelled in cooking school. He learned the classic techniques of Gallic gastronomy: how to clean a sauce and that when you make stock, 20 percent of the weight of your bones should be vegetables. “I was known as the guy who came in hungover or who missed a few too many days of classes,” he says, “but I was also known as the guy who could get shit done.”

After culinary school, he stayed in New York and worked at a range of restaurants, from the French-focused Daniel to the Italian-inspired Lupa. Still, his demons plagued him and he continued to use. By 2012, he was back in Bethesda, where he opened his first restaurant, 4935 Bar and Kitchen. Quickly, the place tanked because its chef’s addiction. A “nightmare” is how he describes himself at that time in his life.

Things hit rock bottom when, one night in April 2014, he shot up heroin with a prostitute. The evening ended with him falling on his face, breaking four teeth, robbing the safe of his own restaurant of $4,000 to buy more heroin, and then waking up the next morning to find that the woman—and his money—had vanished.

A week later, Veena, who had financed his restaurant, bought him a pack of cigarettes and drove him to Caron, a rehabilitation program in Pennsylvania. As he was being admitted, he dumped the bag of blow that was in his wallet, swallowed some random pills from his pocket, and then spent the next two days withdrawing in the detox room. “The feeling is indescribable,” he says of detoxing, “but I knew that I never wanted to feel like that again.”

It has been a little more than five years now, and Alfred is still sober.

As he stands at the pass in the kitchen at Duck Duck Goose, this work gives him a different kind of high.

In 2016, drawing upon his knowledge of French technique honed at cooking school, Alfred opened his first Duck Duck Goose brasserie in Bethesda. He also rebranded 4935 as George’s Chophouse (named after his late half-brother) in Bethesda. On the heels of its success, he opened a second Duck Duck Goose location in 2018 in Fells Point. With its innovative interpretations of French bistro fare and craft cocktails, it has quickly become a great alternative to a neighborhood known for its pubs and pizza joints. “I remember coming here when I was a kid and walking around the harbor with my family and then, as I got older, hanging out around Fells Point,” he says. “The bar business has always been very appealing to me—and nowhere is it more appealing than in Fells Point.”

Staying clean has helped him be a better chef. “Maybe it’s the gift of sobriety. I never feel like I have to put my ego on the plate,” he says. “There are a lot of young chefs who spend a lot of money and take a lot of time because they want to show the world that they can do this or that. It’s great for the guys who work really hard and they have their James Beards and their Michelin stars. But I want to be the guy whose restaurant you go to and you ate until you couldn’t eat anymore—I want the restaurants to be synonymous with a good time.”

His sobriety has had other upsides, too. “When I look at my food pictures, I can see the difference from the time I got sober,” he says as he scrolls through his Instagram account. “It’s been cool to see myself evolve as a cook. I feel like my food and my flavors got cleaner. My presentations got cleaner. I had a clear head—I could really think.”

Some days, he admits the cravings can still kick in. “Are there days when I want to go out and get [messed] up—absolutely,” he says. “Running a restaurant is hell. You go four, five, six days in a row where you’re struggling for plates and glassware and people are quitting right and left because the turnover is so high. You think you don’t want to have a drink after that? Yeah, you do.”

But regular check-ins with his appointed sponsor from Alcoholics Anonymous, a therapist to deal with ongoing dark thoughts and suicidal ideation, plus exercise and proper meals have helped. “I don’t allow myself to be angry or lonely, and I get as much rest as I need to get,” he says. “Sobriety is not that difficult. It really is a matter of doing the next right thing, sometimes minute to minute, hour to hour,” he says, speaking the language of AA.

His father, who was divorced from his mother in 2001, is now sober, too—and continues to rebuild his relationship with his son. “I’m not making excuses for him or trying to downplay it,” says Alfred, “but if I’ve ever known a man to make a turnaround, he has. I owe my sobriety to him. Every time I see him, he will say, ‘Look, I’m sorry.’ We have a beautiful relationship now.”

Last December, Alfred cooked at the prestigious James Beard House in New York City, with Veena by his side. The nine-course meal included halibut with scallop mousseline in puff pastry and Russian caviar and a duck terrine of foie gras with cherry gelée. “On my first day of culinary school they told us about the opportunities to volunteer at the James Beard House with well-known chefs, so to be cooking my own dinner there was humbling,” he says. In March, Alfred was nominated Best Chef by the Restaurant Association of Maryland.

Back in his own Duck Duck Goose kitchen in Fells during dinner service one late winter’s night, Alfred is in the zone as he inspects every plate that goes out with the seriousness of a TSA agent. He rearranges the agnolotti with pea purée into a star pattern, changes the crinkled bun on a rib-eye burger with foie gras (“This bread looks like shit,” he says to one of his line cooks), instructs his sous chef to remake a chocolate soufflé that has fallen, and tells the kitchen to soak the bone marrow in more milk. (“No one wants to eat blood,” he says, as he dabs at the blood on the bone.) He alternates between swearing at his kitchen staff and calling various members of his crew “sweetheart.” He’s also ever-aware that, although he’s had his struggles, he comes from a place of privilege, too. “What am I going to do, be an asshole because my staff didn’t go to culinary school?” he says. “You’ve got to show a little love.”

As he stands at the pass in the kitchen at Duck Duck Goose and receives a compliment from a customer who has stopped by to tell him that “everything was excellent,” this work gives him a different kind of high. “There’s nothing sexier to me than looking out into the dining room and the music is up and there’s a table of people doing their happy dance over the food. That’s what you get in the business for—that’s what 14-hour days are for.”

Telling his story has also been a part of his recovery. Alfred has lately learned to share his story publicly. In February, The Washington Post wrote a wrenching story on his past. He also revealed his story on The Today Show. The notoriety is new, and the media attention has set off an outpouring of strangers and people in the community emailing him to ask advice, share their struggles, or congratulate him on staying clean. “It’s almost strange being put on a pedestal,” says Alfred. “Some part of me wishes that I was getting all this attention for being a good chef, and a small part of me hates that I’m getting attention for the fact that I was a royal fuck-up.”

Back in the kitchen, a new, show-stopping soufflé appears about 30 minutes after the fallen one was sent back. This one rises inches high above the ramekin. It’s a crowning achievement, the true test of any French kitchen. As he spoons crème Anglaise over the top, it’s clear that all eyes are about to be on him. “See,” he says, looking at the soufflé. “Good things come to those who wait.”

OPEN

Le Comptoir du Vin: For years, local diners knew the cozy space at 1729 Maryland Avenue as the home of Bottega—the celebrated BYOB from local restaurateur Adrien Aeschliman. The Tuscan spot later migrated to larger digs down the street, but the building still remains in the Bottega family. Former employees Will Mester and Rosemary Liss recently transformed the Station North space into a European bistro called Le Comptoir du Vin, French for “the wine counter.” At the new restaurant, Mester, formerly of Woodberry Kitchen and Parts & Labor, pairs a selection of French regional wines with dishes such as house sourdough with butter and grated daikon, steak tartare with country potatoes, gnocchi with duck ragout, and a signature yuzu cheesecake. The 35-seat spot is now open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner service. 1729 Maryland Ave.

COMING SOON

Pure Raw Juice: This fuel-up fixture has been providing colorful smoothies, pressed juices, and acai bowls to locals since its Federal Hill flagship debuted in 2015. Pure Raw expanded with a new shop in Towson soon after, and now, the juice bar is widening its footprint yet again with a third location in Hampden. Equipped with large windows and a mezzanine level, the new spot is expected to debut at The Rotunda shopping center in the spring of 2019. Pure Raw president Richard Manson says he’s looking forward to joining neighbors like MOM’s Organic Market and Brick Bodies in the mixed-used development. “We’re really excited to join the Hampden community,” he says. “It’s a community that really understands and respects what we do.” Hampden dwellers will easily be able to stick to their New Year’s resolutions with the shop’s signature juice blends including the “True Blood” (pineapple, beet, carrot, and orange) and Lemon Ginger-Aid, which fuses ginger root, lemon, and filtered water. 711 W. 40th St.

NEWS

Chef Ashish Alfred Heads to the Beard House: The chef/owner of French brasserie Duck Duck Goose in Fells Point recently received the ultimate culinary honor when he was invited to cook at the James Beard House in New York City next month. Alfred, who was classically trained at the French Culinary Institute of Manhattan, plans to showcase his passion for French technique with a five-course meal that incorporates some his favorite dishes at Duck Duck Goose. “Cooking at the Beard House is really a dream come true for me,” Alfred said in a statement. “It’s an amazing honor to be invited to such a center of culinary achievement and share my best work with an intimate group of discerning guests—even more so because we’ll be together in the heart of the holiday season.” Tickets for the dinner on December 20 at 7 p.m. start at $140.

David Thomas Wins Chopped: Regulars gathered at Ida B’s Table last night to watch executive chef David Thomas cook for judges Martha Stewart, Amanda Freitag, and Marc Murphy on a special Thanksgiving episode of Food Network’s Chopped. Thomas made Baltimore proud, and ultimately won over the judges in every round of the tournament-style competition. His Southern soul food-inspired dishes included a mac and cheese made with Stewart’s butternut squash soup, deep-fried turkey breast with cracklings and gravy, and a spoonbread hand pie with cranberry and port whipped cream. “For me to be standing here in this moment is a powerful thing,” Thomas said on the show, after he was crowned the Chopped champion and winner of a $10,000 grand prize. “It lets me know that I’m on the right path. I feel like the ancestors are smiling.”

Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood Closing at Cross Street Market: There are many diverse stalls that will be operating in the newly renovated Cross Street Market by the time construction wraps up next year, but, sadly, longtime vendor Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood won’t be one of them. After a drawn-out lease dispute with developer Caves Valley Partners, Nick’s will be closing its doors for good on January 7. According to the Baltimore Business Journal, the announcement of the closure comes after a settlement was reached between Caves Valley and Nick’s owner Kwang Lee last week. Next month, be sure to pull up a wooden barstool and celebrate Nick’s 46 year-run with one last round of oysters and massive 32-oz. beers. 1065 S. Charles St. 410-685-2020

SHUT (FOR NOW)

BonChon Canton: For the time being, Canton diners will have to look elsewhere when cravings for Korean fried chicken strike. A sign posted to the front door of Bonchon off of Boston Street indicates that the Asian-fusion eatery will be temporarily closed until further notice. It goes on to thank guests for their patience and understanding. There’s no word yet on the reasons for the closure, or on when the spot plans to reopen. We’re not sure how long devoted regulars can last without the twice-fried chicken wings, pork buns, and bibimbap bowls, so here’s hoping for a swift turnaround. 3500 Boston St.

Whether it’s paintings, fashion, gilded palaces, leggy women, or chiseled men, the French harbor an unapologetic appreciation for physical beauty. This is also the case when it comes to their food. Stylish plating is an art in and of itself in the world of French cuisine, an aesthetic Ashish Alfred has embraced at his fabulous new Fells Point brasserie, Duck Duck Goose.

Crab imperial with dark paddlefish caviar is served in a crab-shaped dish on black rocks in a white bowl. Plump scallops glisten atop a bright green mélange of Israeli couscous, parsnip purée, and apples. A streak of beet purée provides a striking stripe on a plate of roasted duck. Each dish is bursting with color, and most taste as good as they look.

The South Broadway restaurant is the second outpost of a concept that’s actually more broadly continental than strictly French. The first opened in Bethesda in 2016, and after a quick glance at the menu, we worried that it might not translate from the posh Montgomery County suburb to a neighborhood whose culinary sensibilities are a bit more casual. But those fears were eased the moment we walked in.

Housed in the former home of the late meatball eatery 8 Ball, Duck Duck Goose offers a sophisticated take on European cuisine without the accompanying pretense. While the layout is relatively unchanged—there’s an L-shaped bar, large common counter and lounge area in the main room, and a smattering of tables in the adjacent dining room—the décor is decidedly more fowl. Murals of geese dot the walls, and wooden ducks sit docilely behind the bar. Although he’s classically trained, having studied at the International Culinary Center in Manhattan, Alfred (who prefers to be called “Al”) doesn’t want the atmosphere to be stuffy. Hence, the eclectic selection of rather loud music, ranging from jazz to pop to club, playing on the nights we visited.

Wearing a backward baseball hat, and with an easygoing manner, our bartender, Tim, added to the casual vibe. On both our visits, he took great time and care preparing our cocktails, all of which are cleverly conceived—and named. The Duck L’Orange, made with bourbon, Grand Marnier, and maple simple syrup, packs a punch, yet goes down smooth. Le Vie en Rose (“life through rose-colored glasses”) combines vodka, raspberry liquor, lemon, and champagne for a not-too-sweet thirst-quenching treat. While we waited for our food, Tim gave us a sample of the restaurant’s house-infused banana Jameson, served on the rocks. It’s surprisingly bite-free and would make for a good before- or after-dinner drink.

The menu, divided into six smalls, four shares, and seven mains, can be intimidating to those unfamiliar with French fare, yet Alfred’s preparation makes the food we tried extremely accessible. We started with the roasted Japanese eggplant, a long strip of the vegetable topped with lemon yogurt, pistachios, and peppers that add a spicy kick. No disrespect to what followed, but it might have been the tastiest dish of the night. The cauliflower steak, a mixture of charred, puréed, and pickled forms of the veggie, offered a panoply of colors and flavors.

Surpassing our sky-high expectations, the honey-roasted duck was among the best we’ve ever had. A tender breast, cut into two tender strips and cooked medium-rare, was rich and only enhanced by the cherry reduction and glazed beets. Tournedos, a center-cut filet topped with foie gras in a red wine jus, was prepared medium-rare at our server’s suggestion. It emerged from the kitchen more rare than medium, the perfect preparation for such a high-quality piece of meat. Halibut, four pieces each wrapped in puff pastry, was perhaps the most inventive dish we tried, and while it was certainly good, the fish was a bit overpowered by the breading.

The best entrée we ate—shockingly—was one we rarely order at restaurants: the roasted chicken. But Alfred’s version, inspired by and named for Marc Forgione of Iron Chef, is impossibly juicy. Served with spicy broccolini, confit potatoes, and charred lemon, it’s worth every cent of its $24 cost.

There will be some who are scared off by Duck Duck Goose’s seemingly exotic menu or high pricing structure. To unadventurous eaters, we say there’s no need to order bone marrow or the Cote de Boeuf—a $95, 36-ounce bone-in ribeye for two. Simple dishes such as risotto, filet, and, of course, chicken are as pleasing to the palate as they are to the eye. At Duck Duck Goose, that’s saying a lot.

DUCK DUCK GOOSE 814 S. Broadway, Fells Point, 443-869-2129. HOURS Brunch: Sat.-Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner: Tues.-Sun. 5-10 p.m.; bar: Tues.-Sun. 4 p.m.-1 a.m. PRICES Appetizers: $6-21; small plates: $13-16; entrees: $18-95. AMBIANCE Hunt country chic.

OPEN:

The Local Fry: We’ve been patiently waiting to move this spot up to the “open” list for a while now. After months of anticipation, husband-and-wife owners Kevin and Elizabeth Irish are unveiling the second iteration of their Federal Hill fry shop at The Rotunda in Hampden this Friday, June 15. To celebrate the grand opening falling on a “fry-day,” all fry orders will be $5 from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Enjoy crispy potatoes loaded with toppings like Korean barbecue cheesesteak, Buffalo chicken, chicken bacon ranch, and the classic taco beef and special sauce combo. Plus, get your fix of wings and banh-mi sandwiches while hanging out in the brand new space. 711 W. 40th St., Ste. 152, 667-210-2633

The Hoof Cafe: This weekend, Locust Point locals will be able to stop in to this new java joint for their morning coffee. The shop will officially debut in soft-opening mode this Saturday, June 16 at 6:30 a.m., serving pastries, bagels, oatmeal, and other cafe fare. A partnership between neighborhood residents Rebecca Friedman and Jason Schiavone, the community hub will showcase array of teas, as well as coffee and espresso drinks made from local Pfefferkorn’s Coffee blends. 1648 E. Fort Ave. 443-961-1039

Jazz + Soju: In other Locust Point news, this new Korean-fusion restaurant inside the Anthem House apartment complex is now officially open for lunch and dinner service. After a few weeks of operating limited hours, owner Michelle Min has cut the ribbon at the artsy space—which features dark woods, funky light fixtures, and walls lined with vintage records. As its name implies, the music-themed spot combines live jazz music with soju, a Korean iteration of vodka. The food menu offers classic twice-fried chicken, as well as kimchi fries, bulgogi burger sliders, and pork dumplings. 900 E. Fort Ave., 410-244-8600

Ludlow Market: This reimagined concept in the former home of Wine Market Bistro in Locust Point is open for business. The spot now has a more casual feel with an updated interior and outdoor patio, as well as an expanded menu from executive chef Christopher Audia. Dishes to look out for include black-eyed pea fritters with smoked mayo, ricotta and pea pesto crostini, lamb ribs with hazelnut harissa, and a vegetarian chickpea panisse with roasted beets. 921 E. Fort Ave., 410-244-6166

Palio: On the heels of Stanford Kitchen opening in Owings Mills, the area is welcoming yet another dining destination, as this Tuscan-inspired restaurant opened in Foundry Row earlier this week. The spacious dining room and outdoor patio is open for lunch and dinner service, highlighting traditional antipasti, wood-fired pizzas, an array of pastas, and heartier meat dishes. Menu standouts include shrimp scampi with sundried tomatoes, lemon-butter salmon with salsa verde, and a classic chicken marsala. 10090 Reisterstown Rd., Owings Mills, 888-456-3463

Union Craft Brewing: Get excited, beer lovers. The wait is finally over for the debut of Union Craft Brewing’s new taproom at Union Collective. Stop by this weekend to grab a pint, check out the new space, and hang out on the outdoor patio—which features picnic tables and a colorful wall mural by local artists Jessie Unterhalter and Katey Truhn. 1700 W. 41st St.

COMING SOON

Duck Duck Goose: Local chef Ashish Alfred has finally set a grand opening date for the second location of his French brasserie concept, whose flagship is in Bethesda. Set in the former home of 8 Ball Bar & Grill on Broadway in Fells Point, Duck Duck Goose will debut on Friday, June 22 serving Alfred’s unique takes on French fare including ratatouille, bronzino, and honey-roasted duck. The renovated space now boasts an open concept with plenty of tables, wall art, and an exhibition kitchen so that diners can see they’re food being prepared. 814 S. Broadway, 443-869-2129

NEWS

Whole Foods Delivery via Amazon Prime: As of this week, local Amazon Prime users can get Whole Foods Market products delivered to their doorstep in two hours or less. After acquiring the organic food chain one year ago, Amazon has launched delivery of its natural products through Prime Now in cities across the country. This week, the service expanded to Boston, Philadelphia, Richmond, and Baltimore, making it easy for locals to get produce, snacks, bakery items, meat, and seafood brought to them in a time crunch.

Magdalena Launches Brunch: Diners looking to switch up their usual brunch routine will be happy to hear that Magdalena, chef Mark Levy’s swanky spot inside Mt. Vernon’s Ivy Hotel, debuted brunch service earlier this month. Every Sunday from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m., the restaurant will offer a $39 prix-fixe menu featuring dishes like a country ham eggs benedict, glazed Maryland crab omelet with piquillo peppers, and shrimp and grits with tomato stew. 205 E. Biddle St. 410-514-0303. $39

EPICUREAN EVENTS

6/16: Libations and Creations Makers Market at Monument City
Now back for the second time, this pop-up market at Monument City Brewing in Highlandtown will feature the works of more than 30 artisans. Spend your Saturday sipping Monument City brews while perusing everything from florals and candles to local WOOT Granola and gourmet baked goods and libations from Sweet Tea and Cornbread. The market’s raffle ticket proceeds will benefit Itineris—a local organization committed to providing opportunities for adults living with Autism Spectrum Disorder. 1 North Haven St. 12-5 p.m. 443-529-8131.

TO 6/17: Big Softy Pop-Up at R. House
There’s still time to get your hands on a savory soft-shell sandwich from this weeklong pop-up at R. House in Remington. The Lunchbox Lady’s Craig Falk will be slinging his signature soft shells throughout the weekend, along with rotating specials like crab and cucumber salad, homemade pastas, and brunch bites. R. House, 301 W. 29th St. 9:30 a.m.- 9 p.m.