A welcoming spirit envelops you from the moment you set foot in Church, the divine new cocktail bar in Old Goucher.

Standing behind a wooden pulpit that came from an actual house of worship in Hampden, co-owner Chelsea Gregoire greets guests with a palpable warmth that sets the tone for what Gregoire and co-owners Marisa Dobson and Martha Lucius hope is Church’s legacy.

“Church and the community we seek to foster is based on my philosophy that hospitality is the business of caring for souls,” Gregoire, who holds a Bachelor of Science in religion and a Master of Arts in theology from Liberty University, told Baltimore when plans for the project were announced. “Drinks, food, and a cool space are just vehicles for finding new ways to meet people where they are. Calling my first bar ‘Church’ is a succinct way for me to ask, ‘Where do we go from here? How can we reshape hospitality and Baltimore together?’”

Housed in a 19th-century renovated building, the long-anticipated Church features outdoor seating in the front and back, as well as a dining room, a medium-sized bar (with decorative wooden “organ pipes” above it), and an open kitchen. It has delivered on its promise—all those areas have tended to fill up quickly since it opened in September, so reservations (even for bar seats) are recommended.

Church’s cocktail menu is unlike any other we’ve encountered in the city. First on the list, which Gregoire says will change quarterly, was The Host, a proprietary blend of clear spirits, blanc vermouth, bitters, and a light brine that’s available as a martini or in a bottle with garnish service for three or more people to share. The Four Blessings includes applejack, the Golden Gate features celery gin, and the St. Vincent showcases Bolivian brandy.

We went with a Loose Seal, a combination of Japanese whisky, Szechuan amaro, yuzu, banana, and Thai basil. It was smooth and well made by our bartender, who, like the other employees, was attentive and conversational. Our second beverage, a Bath & Body Works, is a take on a margarita, made with blanco tequila, cucumber, grapefruit, melon, and lined with black lava salt. It was tart but not overwhelmingly so.

In addition to a permanent culinary team, Church employs a chef-in-residence who will change every few months. The program, reads the website, is “an experiment in creating a new kitchen paradigm that fosters mentorship, experimentation, and Church’s vision of community.” The first chef, Dwight Campbell, was raised in Jamaica. His menu, including pepper shrimp and jerk ribs, harkened to those roots.

We tried the rockfish served over a sweet pepper and onion escabeche. The fish was flaky and the escabeche complex and spicy. The best part of the dish was the fried fish skin that accompanied it. (Campbell should bag these delights and sell them as snacks.)

As we left Church that night, we felt that sense of inclusion and community that its owners are striving to create.

We’ll be back. We’re Churchgoers now.

Chelsea Gregoire is giving a Zoom tour of their apartment in Hampden’s Whitehall Mill, where the vast collection of books they share with their artist wife, Shandi Chester, is organized by the color of the books’ spines. The blue books alone show the range of the collection.

“We have The Basics of Biblical Greek,” says the 30-year-old, who uses “they/them” pronouns and identifies as queer. “We have What If?, which are critical-thinking exercises for philosophy. We have Setting the Table by Danny Meyer. We have a book about Madeira, Grief Observed by C.S. Lewis (“I read this four-chapter beauty every time I go through something difficult.”), and The Sick Rose, which is a book about medical illustrations.”

If one’s bookshelf can be considered an autobiography of sorts, Gregoire’s volumes speak volumes. In this case, Gregoire’s varied book collection serves as a sort of metaphor for the acclaimed beverage director’s mission of inclusiveness, diversity, and making everyone feel at home, including their coworkers, such as NiHao bar manager Ashley McMichael, who previously worked with Gregoire at True Chesapeake Oyster Co.

“They have taught me so much,” says McMichael. “I’m a recovering alcoholic. And when I first got sober, I was like, ‘How can I be sober and then run a bar program and mix drinks for people?’ And Chelsea was like, ‘You can totally do that. If that’s what makes you happy.’ And they encouraged me to come up with ideas for mocktails. I’ve never had a mentor who was so passionate about everything they do, especially when it comes to teaching others. Chelsea always makes sure that everyone feels included—they’re everything you want in a coworker, a boss, a friend. And I give Chelsea such accolades for being the person they are in a world that told them ‘no’ a lot.”

Dave Thomas, the former chef-owner of Ida B’s Table, who worked with Gregoire when they were a bar manager at his restaurant, puts it like this: “They say what’s on their mind and care about how things affect other people. They fostered this idea of the bar collective and emboldened the staff to create cocktail menus, instead of taking the credit.” Gregoire, says Thomas, has the rare ability to give careful consideration to every last detail in a way that goes way beyond the bar.

“We were an African-American-owned and operated business that didn’t carry Hennessy behind the bar, which was a big problem,” says Thomas. “We didn’t know a lot about Hennessy back then, except for the fact that it was a staple in Black bars. But we also wanted to make sure that whatever brands we carried didn’t exploit the culture. Chelsea took on researching the brand and was also always explaining to customers why we weren’t going to carry it until we knew more.”

Even beyond Baltimore, for Gregoire, an industry veteran despite their relative youth, the hosannas keep coming. Gregoire has won numerous national awards in the beverage industry for their mission toward creating more inclusive and equitable restaurant spaces and better working conditions for people in the service industry, from talking about affordable health care and a livable wage to raising awareness surrounding fair hiring practices, product selection, and company partnerships.

In 2018, as the bar manager at Hotel Revival, they were named an Eater Young Gun. And in 2019, while still working at True Chesapeake Oyster Co., Gregoire was named Beverage Director of the Year by Esquire magazine, which mentioned their “radical, generous-spirited approach to inclusiveness” and called them a “game changer” for the industry.

“I wake up to an email that says, ‘Congratulations, you’re America’s Beverage Director of the Year,’” recounts Gregoire. “I couldn’t have imagined it in my wildest dreams, but I don’t want the awards to elevate me. I want them to elevate the idea that things could be better.”

Most recently, Gregoire published a holiday cocktail for Bon Appétit, a publication whose editor-in-chief resigned over accusations of racial bias and discriminatory culture. Before agreeing to be featured in the special issue, edited by famed Ethiopian Swedish chef Marcus Samuelsson, Gregoire proceeded with characteristic caution and care.

“BA’s recent reckoning has not gone unnoticed,” says Gregoire. “I knew they were trying to diversify the voices and treat those voices equally, but I wanted to make sure that they weren’t just asking a bunch of white people to make holiday cocktails. If someone doesn’t hold these organizations accountable, then the change we are asking for fails.”

Even Gregoire’s manner of dress—sartorial men’s custom suits and an array of playful printed ties and bowties—is their way of making a statement that all people, regardless of race, gender, or creed, should have a place at the proverbial table.

“The way I dress is one of my main forms of expression in a business that’s a lot about assimilation, to its detriment,” says Gregoire. “There’s an abundance of uniforms, so being able to have that self-expression is important. I see it as a suit of armor that allows me to navigate a space that I wouldn’t normally be able to.”

FOR GREGOIRE, AN INDUSTRY VETERAN DESPITE THEIR RELATIVE YOUTH, THE HOSANNAS KEEP COMING.

First and foremost, Gregoire considers themselves a bartender, but with their wide smile, big blue-green eyes, and, yes, spirited personality, crafting a cocktail is about more than just adding an ounce or two of alcohol, a splash of liqueur, or a garnish to a glass. The secret to the sauce—or, in this case, the drink—is that every cocktail (and cocktail program) is a chance to share a story.

“I think of people who make drinks and food as artists,” says Gregoire, who created a list of cocktails at Ida B’s Table inspired by songs from Black artists such as Chuck Berry’s “Promised Land” and The Supremes’ “I Hear A Symphony.”

Gregoire once considered a career with the ministry, but has instead used bars and restaurants as their pulpit. In their nearly eight years since graduating with degrees in religion and theology from Liberty University, they have worked in all aspects of the industry.

Gregoire’s first beverage job was in 2009 at Teavana in Annapolis, followed by a barista job at Firehouse Coffee Company on O’Donnell Square in Canton, and then years of working as a barista at various Starbucks outlets in Virginia. “I loved the satisfaction of seeing a smile on someone’s face in a conversation about their day,” they say. “And I know what their usual drink is.”

In fact, most of what Gregoire has learned about the world of cocktails came from their interest in java. “The world of coffee can go on forever and ever,” they say, “but it’s a foray into understanding terroir and into the understanding of the manipulation of production and the effect it has on an agricultural product. Once you get a taste of that and how these different methods develop different flavors, you can’t get enough. For someone like me who loves devouring information, I couldn’t stop.”

Since those days, Gregoire has worked all over Charm City, from bartending at the former Pen & Quill in Station North to managing the bar at Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon, as well as a management position with Jay’s Restaurant Group.

At the height of the pandemic, in June of last year, they decided to leave their gig as general manager and beverage director at True Chesapeake Oyster Co. to devote their efforts full-time to their consulting firm, the wryly named Drinkable Genius, in which they plan events, teach classes, help create cocktail menus, and “dabble” in all aspects of the beverage arena.

In addition to teaching mixology virtually for now, at local and national events and conferences such as Tales of the Cocktail, Portland Cocktail Week, Bar Convent Berlin (Germany), and Baltimore Cocktail Week, Gregoire is a restaurant consultant for local restaurants such as Crust by Mack. And during the pandemic, as restaurants continue to struggle for survival, there has been no shortage of need.

“The paycheck isn’t the most important part,” they say. “I’m trying to meet people where they’re at. I can help people for an hour and still make an impact—I just want to see as many small businesses as I can make it to the other side of this.”

For Gregoire, who was born in Baltimore and raised in Annapolis, the road to the world of hospitality has been an unlikely one, though connecting with community has always been a leitmotif in their life. “As a kid, I was super outgoing,” they say. “I grew up dancing and doing musical theater like Carousel and Footloose, but I didn’t want to be the lead, it was more fun for me to be a part of the community than to be a star of the show.”

Gregoire’s mom, Lisa, recalls that Chelsea, who played upward of six instruments, including guitar, electric bass, piano, the mandolin, and sold five full-length albums on iTunes before they were 15, was precociously bright.

“I remember going down to Raleigh, North Carolina, and my great-grandfather was reading the newspaper, and Chelsea was 3 years old and climbed on his lap and said, ‘Can I read the paper?’ He was like, ‘Is this kid for real?’ And Chelsea started reading the newspaper to him.”

Growing up, Gregoire briefly considered the idea of becoming a marine biologist (“Once you watch Free Willy, you’re like, ‘Give me the whales,’” they crack), considered a career as a musician, and finally set their sights on working in the church. “I wanted to figure out ways that I could help people,” they say. “Music was a bridge. I was playing music at church, and I was like, ‘I’m really passionate about this ministry thing, in addition to music.’”

Along the way to adulthood, their sunny personality landed them a job selling cards and gift-wrapping at a Hallmark store in Annapolis in 2007. “I’ve always been sentimental, but working at Hallmark took it from 25 percent sentimental to 150 percent,” they say. “Anyone who has ever worked for me has gotten a card or a note or a handwritten message or text telling them how much I love them. I’m just a giant sap—Hallmark drove that home.”

While still a senior in high school, they had a brief stint as a receptionist at a Lexus dealer in Annapolis. (“Oh, the irony,” says Gregoire. “I don’t even have a driver’s license.”)

By 2008, Gregoire was a student at York College living the life of a freshman. “I partied a little too hard,” they say. “I’ve always been extremely self-aware, and I came home for winter break and was like, ‘I can’t go back. I just can’t.’” They decided, instead, to transfer to the faith-based Liberty University. “My mother was skeptical but supportive,” says Gregoire. “I just needed to put walls around myself, so I could focus on the task at hand, which was to study.’”

When Gregoire first arrived on campus, following the rules and regulations of the Christian college—with its dry campus and insistence on abstinence—wasn’t an issue. But over time, Gregoire started to question Liberty’s ideology. “There was something called The Liberty Way, with fines and disciplinary homework for the normal college stuff that kids do—I smoked a cigarette and there was such a layer of guilt put on me that I had to admit my wrongdoing and then had disciplinary homework,” they say, now laughing at the memory.

Gregoire had other experiences that led them to question the code of conduct, too. After graduating with a master’s in theology in 2013, Gregoire was set to teach an online freshman class at the university. At the same time, they had come out as queer and went public with a post on Facebook.

“I posted that I was in a relationship with Shandi,” they say. “And then I received a message from Becki Falwell [the wife of then university chancellor Jerry Falwell Jr.] that said, ‘I saw your status about Liberty. Is there something that I can do?’ And I was like, ‘If you need to ask….’”

“HOSPITALITY IS THE BUSINESS OF CARING FOR SOULS,” SAYS CHELSEA GREGOIRE.

Shortly after, Gregoire says they were locked out of the university’s email, effectively blocking them from the school’s online community and classrooms. (We reached out to Liberty University for a comment, but at press time, had not heard back.)

Looking back now, as they sit near the rushing waters of the Jones Falls, just outside Whitehall Mill, the recent report that Becki was allegedly having an open extra-marital affair (which led to her husband’s ouster) clearly calls up old wounds.

“I’m livid,” they say. “These disclosures have been completely emotionally exhausting. I still have $23,000 in student loans. What she did is not inherently wrong—you can have an open relationship and extramarital affairs, if that’s something that you agree to—but what I can’t stand for is the absolute hypocrisy.”

Though their college years are now a thing of the past, Liberty left a lasting impression. “Going there changed almost everything about me,” says Gregoire. “I firmly believe that you can believe in God and still enjoy a glass of wine. The two are not mutually exclusive, but at Liberty, it is. That realization really gave me pause.”

Despite those realizations—or maybe because of them—Gregoire, who has a cross tattoo tucked behind their right ear, still considers themselves spiritual. In fact, they often draw on their abiding faith. “Hospitality is the business of caring for souls,” they say. “It’s a very religious idea that we can only pour out as much as we are being filled up—that’s the whole basis of religious community. We only have so much we can give without being refilled ourselves.”

And that’s a particularly helpful insight during the inevitable challenges that arise from working in the service industry.

“Hospitality has taught me that there’s always a backstory when a customer is cranky or someone on the staff is having a tough time,” says Gregoire. “There’s always something going on in people’s lives, something that’s causing them to act this way, and that’s one of the hardest parts of hospitality. If often ties back to the thing I take to heart from my experiences with religion and Christianity—it’s about the extension of grace.”

Corn Soup

DAVID ZAMUDIO, ALMA COCINA LATINA

SERVES 4

If you’re not cooking with corn, it just isn’t summer. “Growing up, my grandmother would make me soups,” says David Zamudio, executive chef of Alma Cocina Latina. “This corn cream soup is inspired by one that she often made.” As soup recipes go, this one is incredibly basic, says Zamudio. “Boil all of the ingredients first, then blend and strain. It’s as easy as 1, 2, 3!” And if you want to turn this simple soup into more of a meal, you can do that, too. “The soup goes great with crispy cassava [yuca] bread,” he says. To finish it off, “Brush the cassava with butter and herbs to complete the flavor profile.”

INGREDIENTS

1⁄2 large onion

1 leek (white part only)

1 clove of garlic

4 cups of water

1⁄2 tablespoon salt

1⁄4 teaspoon pepper

1⁄2 teaspoon onion powder

1⁄2 teaspoon garlic powder

1⁄2 teaspoon Old Bay

7 ounces corn kernels, preferably cut straight from the cob
1 bunch cilantro, reserving some for garnish

DIRECTIONS

1. Dice the onion.
2. Slice the leek.
3. Boil all ingredients for about
30 minutes over medium to high heat, with exception of cilantro.
4. Add the cilantro, blend, and strain. 5. To garnish, add additional
cilantro leaves.

---

Hottest Day on Record

CHELSEA GREGOIRE, DRINKABLE GENIUS

SERVES 1

“At first I thought about making a cocktail that
could stretch into fall, but then I remembered: August in Maryland is an absolute swelter!” says Chelsea Gregoire, who grew basil during quarantine. “My basil was immediately gigantic. To use some of that beautiful basil, I crafted this summer refresher.”

INGREDIENTS

2 ounces light rum (or any light spirit: vodka, gin, tequila)

1 ounce peach liqueur or peach juice
3⁄4 ounce lemon juice

3⁄4 ounce Campari

1⁄2 ounce green tea syrup, (see below)
2 large or 4 small basil leaves
3 dashes of Peychaud’s bitters

For Green Tea Syrup: In a small saucepan, bring 16 ounces of water to boil. Once hot, remove from heat, and add two green tea bags. Once steeped, remove tea bags. Put saucepan on low heat, and add 16 ounces of sugar. Stir until dissolved. Cool and store in refrigerator for up to three weeks.

DIRECTIONS

1. Add all ingredients to a shaker
or Mason jar with ice.
2. Close, and shake vigorously.
3. Pour the shaker contents into a Collins glass, adding more ice, if necessary. 4. Garnish with fresh basil.

---

Rigatoni with Lobster, Eggplant, Burrata, and Pistachios

JULIAN MARUCCI, TAGLIATA

SERVES 2

For this recipe, Julian Marucci, executive chef at Tagliata, says he decided to focus on the combination of lobster and eggplant. “Eggplant has a natural bitterness that goes well with sweet flavors,” he says. “The remaining ingredients complement the lobster and eggplant.”

INGREDIENTS

Extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons shallot, minced
1 teaspoon ginger, minced
1 teaspoon garlic, minced
1 tablespoon celery, minced
2 small eggplants, peeled and medium diced
1 tablespoon capers 1 ounce pistachios, toasted and chopped
11⁄2 ounces honey
11⁄2 ounces aged sherry vinegar
13 ounces rigatoni
2 lobsters, 1 pound each
1 lemon
1 piece of burrata
2 sprigs of fresh basil, small leaves
1 teaspoon chives

DIRECTIONS

1. Sauté shallots, ginger, garlic, celery in extra-virgin olive oil, carefully cooking to just sweat the vegetables without color. 2. Add eggplant to saute pan. Season with salt and pepper stirring frequently, cooking on low to medium heat.
3. Once the eggplant is soft and tender, add capers, nuts, honey, and vinegar. Taste and set aside
to be mixed with pasta.
4. Boil roughly five quarts of water, season with salt. Cook pasta according to package. Strain pasta and mix with eggplant mixture in a large bowl. (Don’t rinse pasta with water). Add some olive oil and stir. 5. Cool pasta in refrigerator.
6. Cook lobster in boiling water
for 9-12 minutes, depending on size of pot and lobster. Once cooked, chill in ice water, then clean and dice meat.

To Serve: Toss pasta with more olive oil, if needed. Add lobster meat, lemon juice. Plate in a large bowl, garnish with torn burrata, a drizzle of oil, basil leaves, and chives. Save tail meat to use as garnish.

---

Chipotle Honey Chicken Tacos with Street Corn Salad & Bacon Guacamole

JOHNTAY BEDINGFIELD, LA FOOD MARKETA

SERVES 6

“This is an easy, approachable dish that’s clean and light,” says Johntay Bedingfield of his recipe. “I like to use one ingredient, like cilantro, in more ways than one. You can use stems for marinade and the leaves for the corn salad and guacamole.” And if you want to make the dish a little lighter, he sometimes swaps the mayonnaise for yogurt in the corn salad. “It’s tangy and adds a nice cream component,” he says.

INGREDIENTS

2 lbs. chicken (preferably thighs)

Chicken Marinade (yields about 12 ounces)
2 cans chipotle peppers
1 tablespoon adobo liquid (from chipotle peppers)
1 bunch cilantro stems
5 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano
1 tablespoon cumin
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1⁄4 cup white vinegar
2 limes, juiced and zested
1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

DIRECTIONS
1. Place all ingredients in blender or bullet. Mix well until smooth.
2. Use 1⁄3 of marinade to coat chicken. (Set aside remainder of marinade.) Cover and let chicken rest in refrigerator for 1 to 4 hours.

TO GRILL CHICKEN:
Heat grill. Oil or spray grill as chicken will stick a little because of the sugar and honey. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Grill for about 7 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the chicken. Allow chicken to rest 10 minutes before cutting. Dice chicken and toss with about
1 tablespoon of reserved marinade.

Street Corn Salad
4 ears corn (in husk)
1⁄4 cup mayonnaise or Greek yogurt

2 tablespoons chipotle honey marinade
1 teaspoon salt
2⁄3 bunch cilantro tops (minced)

DIRECTIONS
With corn still in husk, place corn in a container large enough to submerge in water. Allow corn to soak as long as the chicken.

TO GRILL CORN:
I like to grill my corn in the husk so it steams and keeps the corn tender while picking up charred notes from the grill. You want to burn the husk when grilling. Grill corn for 12-15 minutes, turning every few minutes. Allow to rest for 10 minutes to cool down before shucking husk off the corn. Once cooled and shucked, cut corn off cob. In a mixing bowl, mix mayonnaise or yogurt, marinade, salt, and cilantro. Fold in corn. Set aside for assembly later.

Bacon Guacamole
1⁄4 pound bacon

4 avocados

1⁄4 cup small diced red onion

1⁄3 bunch of cilantro tops (minced)
1⁄4 lime juice

DIRECTIONS
1. Cook bacon at 350 Fahrenheit for 14-16 minutes until super crispy, almost burnt! Once cooled, dice bacon into bits. 2. In a mixing bowl, add avocado, red onion, cilantro, lime juice, and bacon. Mix well. Cover with plastic wrap.

Tortillas
1. Place tortillas (double stacked) on grill for about 30 seconds on each side. Don’t be afraid of a little color. Wrap tortillas in a kitchen towel to keep them warm until ready to serve.

ASSEMBLY: Start with your tortilla, place a smear of guacamole, add chicken, and top with street corn salad.

---

EAT

July 19: Cocktails & Cajou

In advance of National Ice Cream Day on July 19 (be sure to check out our handy guide to local ice cream shops for the cherry on top of a perfect Sunday), Cajou Creamery is continuing this Friday-night Instagram Live series with special guest Chelsea Gregoire of Drinkable Genius. The hospitality veteran will join husband-and-wife owners Dwight Campbell and Nicole Foster to create tasty cocktails that incorporate Cajou’s entirely-vegan flavors. Grab a pint, sit back, and kick off your weekend by tuning in to the fun conversation. While you’re at it, consider donating to Cajou’s Kickstarter campaign to help fund nationwide shipping and equipment for a new storefront.

DRINK

July 18: Old Line Spirits Courtyard Bar Grand Opening

Old Line Spirits. 200 S Janney St. 12-8 p.m. Prices Vary.

Old Line Spirits is opening its long-awaited outdoor courtyard on Saturday. In honor of the debut, the Highlandtown distillery will be offering a full summer cocktail menu featuring its own whiskey and rum, as well as its latest release: New Normal Vodka. Deddle’s Chicken & Donuts will also make an appearance to serve up juicy Buffalo wings made with a signature Old Line Whiskey sauce. You can even bring your pup, as long as it’s on a leash, and non-alcoholic drinks will also be available.

SEE

July 18: The Wind of Change Gallery Opening at Baltimore Clayworks

Baltimore Clayworks. 5707 Smith Ave. 2-8 p.m. Free.

Strolling through galleries and gazing at art is one of things we’ve missed most during quarantine, but this weekend, Baltimore Clayworks is ready for you to view its latest exhibition, The Wind of Change: Contemporary Ceramics of Taiwan. Professor Ching Yuan Chang of Tainan National University of Arts has expertly curated a unique display of Taiwanese ceramics to display the craftsmanship, creativity, and resilience of clay. The solo exhibit will also feature displayed works by one of Baltimore Clayworks’ very own fellows, Samantha Briegel. Briegel’s “Maintaining Comfort” spotlights functional vessels inspired by fabric and fashion. Entries will be timed and masks will be required to ensure that guests can wander through the gallery safely, so be sure to reserve your spot online.

HEAR

July 19: Live From The Zen Garden

Zen and the City. 811 N Charles St. 5-9 p.m. $5-15.

This weekend, instead of massages and facials, downtown wellness center Zen and the City is bringing you a live outdoor concert. Described as “Tiny Desk-meets-Artscape,” the event will allow guests to browse and purchase art from Charm City creators before heading into the garden to enjoy the tunes. The series will be broken into 60-minute slots, with performances by electronic soul artist Jazzo, poetry duo The 5th L, and singer-songwriter Mariah Ash. Seating is limited, so don’t forget to bring an outdoor pillow to get comfortable outside.

DO

July 18: Yoga at the Zoo

The Maryland Zoo in Baltimore. 1 Safari Place. 8-10 a.m. $14.99-24.99.

Since so many yoga positions are inspired by the animal kingdom, what better place to hold a downward dog or cobra pose than the Maryland Zoo? All yogis are welcome to travel to Safari Place to take part in a 60-minute, Vinyasa-style yoga class. The class is designed for both beginner and intermediate yoga lovers, so no need to worry if you’re not a master yet. The session will take place at Penguin Coast, allowing participants to gaze at the flowing waters and swimming penguins while sweating it out in the summer heat.

After working as the general manager and beverage director at Hampden’s True Chesapeake Oyster Co. since October, Chelsea Gregoire has decided that it’s time to move on.

Gregoire will devote herself full time to her restaurant consulting company, Drinkable Genius.

“I’ve been in this industry a long time,” says Gregoire, who is currently studying for her sommelier certification. “It’s not a massive surprise to anyone that restaurants are really struggling, and the whole business model is really difficult, especially when people cannot gather together. When I started to feel like there was a possibility we might be coming back to work soon, I had to stop and reflect on what my role will be in this new landscape and what that meant for my team.”

It was a decision she made for the greater good. “I knew that if I was able to stay on and take a salary when not everyone was going to be able to come back to work, it wouldn’t sit well with me, especially when I have my own business,” she says. “I’ve bounced back before and I have the ability to do that, so I was in the best position to make that sacrifice and say, ‘You know what? Don’t pay me a salary. Let me make this decision for the good of everyone. You don’t need a general manager for 10 tables and then 20 tables,’” she adds, referring to the reduced capacity for in-person dining.

Gregoire started her wryly named Drinkable Genius in 2016, and went on to help open Ida B’s Table and True Chesapeake Oyster Co., as well as a revamp the cocktail menu for Market Tavern in Sykesville. The modest Gregoire, who was named Esquire magazine’s Beverage Director of the Year in 2019, doesn’t want anyone to think that she’s calling herself a genius with the name of her company.

“The name rolled off the tongue one day,” she says. “And I had to step back and say, ‘Does that make me sound like a jerk?’ Anyone who knows me knows that I don’t think of myself that way, but rather I like to say that I create drinkable works of genius, something exciting and innovative that you can either drink in a cocktail glass or take in through an experience. That’s how the name plays out.”

She has also worked for a number of spirit brands and collaborated on events centered on community building.

“I’ve helped a variety of different restaurants and concepts open for the first time or just provided some guidance in making changes and fine-tuning things,” Gregoire says. “I think people seek me out because of my approach to hospitality. I try to come in and help with all of the math and the costs, as well. Right now, business owners need the ability to step back and figure out how they can save money and earn more money despite the climate. I’m not expecting a ton of response, but I’m hoping that if there’s someone out there who needs a hand and some fresh ideas, they give me a call.”

Gregoire, who earned a master’s degree in theology, found her True North from behind the bar. “A bar creates this wonderful atmosphere of great energy and great community,” says the Baltimore-born, Annapolis-raised hospitality veteran. “Making cocktails and learning about wine and spirits and beer scratches that creative itch and being behind the bar scratches that community itch for me—I just fell in love.”

On Sunday night, Gregoire worked her last shift at True Chesapeake, a project that was years in the making.

“It was bittersweet,” she says. “It always is. You work really hard on a project and get really close to the ownership team and your staff that you curated and brought together. But when it’s time to go, it’s time to go. I feel like we had a great last few days. ‘The kids’ threw me a little get together on Saturday night. Ten of us got together and sat around talked about our memories. On my last night chef [Zack Mills] and I had a glass of Champagne together. It was just really good send off.”

Then again, Gregoire, who lives in Whitehall Mill on the grounds of the restaurant, isn’t straying very far. “I know we will stay in touch,” she says.

At only 29, Chelsea Gregoire—Baltimore-born, Annapolis-raised—has worked at a number of spots around town, from Dooby’s to City Café to Ida B’s Table. She also runs her own consulting company, Drinkable Genius, and hosts workshops all over the country.

Her most recent role is general manager and beverage director at True Chesapeake Oyster Co. in Hampden’s Whitehall Mill, a post that has earned her a coveted nod from Esquire magazine as Beverage Director of the Year.

When asked how to distill down the question, “Who is Chelsea Gregoire?” the former theology major talks about creating her own sacred community behind the bar. “I really care about caring,” she says. “I give a damn about giving a damn. I feel too deeply, but that’s what makes us human.”

Her spiritual life continues in hospitality work. “There’s always an element of spirituality in my life,” she says, “whether it’s a reverence for human beings and for the environment or for the basic needs of all people that flows through me.” (Let’s cheers to that.)

We caught up with Gregoire to chat about her recent award, how theology led to a career in the hospitality industry, and what to drink at True Chesapeake.

How are you feeling about being in the spotlight? I’m sure that you would have been thrilled with being named the Best Beverage Director in Maryland, but being named Beverage Director of the Year on a national scale—that’s next level.
I feel completely overwhelmed in all positive ways—I am on Cloud Nine. I’m not one who likes attention, so having all of this attention is a little weird for me. It’s exciting—it means that I get to represent Baltimore on a national stage and that’s a huge deal. I’m just taking it day by day.

What was your reaction to the news when you heard?
I woke up to this email from Esquire [last Wednesday] and I wanted to scream, cry, and pass out all at once. Instead, I went with my wife to La Cuchara to celebrate that night—and then I went to work.

You have two degrees in theology. How did you segue from your studies to working in hospitality?
I enjoyed my theology classes when I was at Jerry Falwell’s Liberty University and was one of the few women in the program. When you graduate with a master’s in theology, you either teach or you pastor at a church. I thought I would teach for a bit, but as soon as I came out as gay in 2013, the opportunities were all gone. But I’d worked in restaurants and cafes all through college, and I realized that community in a restaurant or bar is really beautiful.

I love the idea of all these people working together. There’s something really poignant and beautiful about going to a restaurant that makes you feel like you’re at home and a part of something—it nourishes you, obviously. Getting nourishment is a human need that we have but, also, it provides an unmatched opportunity for community and getting to know other people and where they come from.

Tell me about the wine and beer program at True Chesapeake.
We have a large wine program that spans a lot of regions around the world and magnifies the flavors that chef [Zack Mills] is working with. We have something for everyone with a wide swatch of pricing. All of our beers are local or just over the Pennsylvania line. And we have one beer from Virginia that’s a nod to [co-owner] Nick Schauman’s The Local Oyster in Ballston.

And what about cocktails?
I’ve done enough cocktail programs at this point that I generally walk through with a framework—keeping in mind what flavors and ideas I want to hit. But, in researching this menu, I also went on an adventure to all the places in the watershed that I grew up going to as a kid—the parks, the waterfront, being out on the water and eating random things from nature. I allowed those smells and experiences to dictate where the menu went.

True Chesapeake is about home for me and Zack and Nick and [co-owner] Patrick [Hudson]—this is home for us. I always felt so lucky to grow up so close to the water, particularly the Chesapeake Bay and all of its estuaries and the watershed in general. I felt that it was so important that my experiences of growing up in this area, and how much they echoed these bodies of water and the sights and sounds and nature surrounding them, was seen through the cocktail menu.

Your cocktails are clever in every way, from the ingredients to the names. How do you name them?
“Holy Lagoon” is the tiki-inspired drink that we have on the menu right now. Little known fact: St. Jerome Creek, where are oysters are grown, is actually a lagoon. It’s named after a saint. I was like, “‘Holy Lagoon’ would be a perfect name for a drink.” It’s as if it was actually a tiki drink before it was a tiki drink.

Any other inspiration?
“Prettyboy” is named after the reservoir…and there are tiny hints to this area throughout. Take “Old Foraged” [Old Forester bourbon bitters, spicebush turbinado, citrus peel]—that name doesn’t necessarily harken back to anything except we use spicebush to infuse our turbinado syrup that grows all over the area. You can go out to the woods and probably find it right now. “By Word Nor Deed” [sotol, amontillado sherry, lemon oleo, applejack, bitters] is boozy, but balanced because it has amontillado sherry. “By Word Nor Deed” is both a reference to the Maryland state motto, but also a direct quote from Edgar Allan Poe’s, “The Cask of Amontillado.”

What should a first-timer order?
I would tell them to go for the cocktails they are familiar with. Get an “Old Foraged” because you can mentally relate that to an Old Fashioned. Or get “Forester’s Union” [gin, lemon, molasses, smoke] because you can mentally relate that to a gin sour, and then once you have those notions of, ‘This is what this is like,’ in your head, that’s when you get to see what message the bartender is sending. It creates an experience that shows what the concept is about. It’s a more adventurous way to drink. The things that make it different is what makes it exciting.

What’s the next big thing? Where are we going with cocktails?

We are definitely headed in a direction where every cocktail menu will have something that is without alcohol in it. It’s less of a trend and more of a style of drinking. People are slowing down more. Through college, it’s ripping shots and chugging beers, but people are starting to take the time to appreciate what’s in front of them—that’s the same with food, too. People are starting to appreciate where things come from and the work that it took to source it. Beers and shots are going to pay the bills, but the conversation that comes from a person who really wants to learn and understand what they’re drinking is happening more often all over the industry.

What will the Beverage Director of the Year accolade mean for you?
I’m hoping this will afford me other opportunities, but I’m never leaving Baltimore.

Most Marylanders can recognize when they experience a truly outstanding oyster. For former Wit & Wisdom chef Zack Mills—an Anne Arundel County native—that moment came when he was manning a table at The Emporiyum a few years back.

“One of my buddies was like, ‘You have to try this oyster,'” he recalls. “I tried it and fell in love with it immediately.”

It was the first time Mills had sampled one of the famously petite, yet plump Huckleberry oysters from True Chesapeake Oyster Co.—a farm founded by Patrick Hudson on the brackish waters of St. Jerome Creek in Southern Maryland nearly a decade ago.

Mills enjoyed it so much, in fact, that he decided to permanently feature Hudson’s oysters on the menu at Wit & Wisdom, and the now-closed Four Seasons hotspot became one of True Chesapeake’s first major restaurant accounts. Though Mills and Hudson didn’t know it at the time, it was the start of a longstanding partnership between the chef and the farmer.

“When I decided to step away from Wit last June, I was planning on taking some time off to reset,” Mills says. “But once it was known that I was leaving, I got a phone call from a mutual friend who told me I should reach out to Patrick. We went and had coffee, he explained this new project, and the next week I came in and looked at the space. I was pretty much signed on after that.”

Now, the duo has collaborated with longtime friend Nick Schauman of The Local Oyster—who Hudson has worked with for years—to open the True Chesapeake Oyster Co. restaurant inside the renovated Whitehall Mill development in Hampden. When it officially debuts to the public on October 8, the spot will mark the first Maryland oyster farm to open its own restaurant.

“I felt very early on that the natural progression of True Chesapeake would be a restaurant,” Hudson says. “It just felt like the next step. We wanted to go bigger and get a team together to do something that felt really genuine.”

Building on the ethos of the farm, the spot will feature spins on classic oyster dishes, Maryland seafood staples, a seasonal drink menu by general manager and beverage director Chelsea Gregoire, and, of course, a stellar raw bar with True Chesapeake varieties as well as others from surrounding Eastern Shore purveyors. Hudson estimates that True Chesapeake’s signature Huckleberries and Skinny Dippers will be delivered from Southern Maryland three times per week.

The overall concept is something that the partners refer to as “restorative dining,” which Hudson says starts with highlighting the environmental impact of the farm and its work to restore the Chesapeake Bay’s oyster population. The staff is looking forward to presenting the food as a means to educate their guests about local aquaculture and how, exactly, it arrives on their plates.

“We rented a school bus and took our entire staff down to the farm for the second day of training,” shares Gregoire, a local hospitality veteran. “I could explain up and down what the farm looks like, what the water smells like, and what the birds are singing, but you don’t fully understand it until you’re out on a boat helping them pull up a cage. There’s a feeling that we wouldn’t be here without.”

Another key aspect of the overall mission has to do with Mills’ dedication to classic Maryland cuisine.

“He cooks with the intent to make people feel good—to make people form a new memory or recall an old one,” Hudson says of Mills’ style. “You can go anywhere and have really great tuna tartare and think, ‘That was really good.’ But there’s a big difference between that and having Oysters Rockefeller or a crab soup that makes you think of your grandmother’s recipe. It’s getting at that homegrown Chesapeake Bay food and creating a menu that really restores the soul.”

In an effort to evoke that feeling, Mills’ Maryland-inspired menu will feature options including oyster stew, roasted half shells, semolina-fried oysters, Old Bay fried chicken, seared rockfish in a saffron broth, a breaded fish stick topped with a deconstructed tartar sauce, and a crab cake that is a mix between Mills’ recipe and Schauman’s iteration at The Local Oyster.

The homegrown inspiration also translates to the beverage offerings. Gregoire and lead bartender Ashley Mac will serve innovative oyster shooters, as well as drinks like the booze-free “Ark and Dove” (Giffard aperitif syrup, Asian pear, cardamom, and rhubarb) and the “Take Root,” shaken with carrot juice, tequila, lemon, ginger, and rooibos syrup.

The booze-free “Ark and Dove” with Giffard aperitif syrup, Asian pear, cardamom, and rhubarb.

The “Take Root,” shaken with carrot juice, tequila, lemon, ginger, and rooibos syrup.

 

“With all of us being Marylanders, I really just started exploring the places I went to as a kid,” Gregoire says. “I went to the parks, waterfront areas, and the bodies of water that I grew up on and tried to interpret those experiences in cocktails.”

Other drink offerings will include local beer and a wines from the 500-bottle cellar: “Everything pairs well with oysters,” Gregoire adds, mentioning everything from scotch to a Bloody Mary. “My story for the bar here is, don’t be afraid to have an adventure.”

Designed by Hudson’s sister, Kate Giese, the space itself also reflects the farm’s philosophies. Giese was able to reclaim some of the square beams from the former sail cloth factory to form the oyster bar, which features a top made of crushed True Chesapeake shells.

Custom troughs have been installed around the wraparound bar so that patrons can enjoy their oysters ice cold no matter how far they are from the shucker station. Other on-theme touches include dark woods, artwork from award-winning Chesapeake Bay photographer Jay Fleming, and custom light installations that are meant to mimic the glow of a raw pearl.

Though the 4,500-square-foot restaurant is sectioned into an outdoor bar and patio, indoor lounge area, and a more formal dining room, the partners want diners to experience the same welcoming feeling no matter where they sit.

“I want somebody to be able to come in wearing a Ravens jersey and flip flops and feel comfortable,” Mills says. “Or if somebody wants to celebrate a graduation, they can sit right next to them and be doing that. That’s the goal here, to have the best of both worlds but always make sure how the menu reads and how the space is set up is approachable to everybody.”

Adds Hudson: “That’s Baltimore.”

OPEN

Vida Taco Bar: Ever since the Central Avenue Bridge opened earlier this month, diners have enjoyed easy access to eateries in Harbor Point—the 27-acre peninsula that sits in between Harbor East and Fells Point. The most recent addition to the mixed-use development is a new location of Annapolis favorite Vida Taco Bar, which officially opened earlier this week. The strictly tacos-and-tequila menu features creative tortillas stuffed with everything from fried avocado and Buffalo cauliflower to glazed pork belly and soft-shell crab. Wash down all of the eats with colorful cocktails including a classic Paloma, watermelon margarita, and a hibiscus sangria. 1401 Point St., 443-835-8474

Dear Globe Coffee: Since it was founded last year, this local roastery has been winning over coffee fiends with its worldly blends sold at Remington Wine Company, Taps Fill Station, and local pop-up markets around town. Last week, owner LieAnne Navarro opened a brick-and-mortar headquarters for the coffee operation on Antique Row in Mt. Vernon. Swing by to sample the strong java drinks alongside muffins and cookies by local bakeshop Taste This Cake. To celebrate the opening, Bottoms Up Bagels will be on site slinging their signature bagels and sandwiches at the shop July 24-27 from 7-10 a.m. 827 N. Howard St., 443-850-5051

LemonTopia: Pucker up for this sweet pop-up that opened inside Cross Street Market earlier this week. Perfect for summer scorchers, the stall offers refreshing lemonades (think flavors like mint, cherry, and peach citrus) and other lemon-flavored treats created by 11-year-old Jamaria Crump. The young entrepreneur will be behind the counter on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-6 p.m. until school starts back up in the fall. Stop by to indulge in the ultimate summer snack of lemonade paired with cookies, pie bites, cheesecake, and, of course, lemon bars. 1065 S. Charles St.

World of Beer: Adding to the thriving dining scene in Owings Mills—which recently welcomed Stanford Kitchen and will soon see a new Mexican hotspot—is the latest location of this Tampa-based craft beer franchise. World of Beer has officially debuted in the Metro Centre development offering a full food menu and more than 50 brews on tap. Drink your way through the local (think Union, Heavy Seas, Flying Dog, Jailbreak, etc.) and domestic selection while enjoying eats like mac and cheese bites, Margherita flatbreads, and DIY burgers. 10200 Grand Central Ave., Ste. 100, 410-363-1040

COMING SOON

AJ’s on Hanover: After a string of neighborhood closures—including Regi’s Bistro, Rachel New American Cuisine, and Metropolitan—South Baltimore locals will be happy to hear that the team behind Delia Foley’s on South Charles Street has taken over the former Bluegrass Tavern space one block over. Come September, owners Andrew Carter and Jesse Selke will transform the former Lowcountry spot into this community hangout featuring upscale pub grub, moderately priced entrees, oysters, wine, cocktails on tap, and a selection of craft beer. Stay tuned for more details. 1500 S. Hanover St.

NEWS

Chelsea Gregoire Named One of Eater’s Young Guns: It’s been an exciting week for Chelsea Gregoire. The local service industry veteran—who we name Best Bartender in our current “Best of Baltimore” issue on stands July 27—also received national acclaim from Eater this week. Gregoire earned a coveted spot on the publication’s annual “Young Guns” list, which praises food service up-and-comers from cities across the country. Aside from shouting out her work as bar manager at the new Hotel Revival, the piece mentions Gregoire’s consulting business, Drinkable Genius, as well as her work to advocate for women and LGBTQ+ professionals. “More than ever, I want to encourage people to take up their space,” she told Eater. “I’m excited to do what I do and bring people along with me as I go.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/19: KoRYEan Pop-Up at Rye
Throughout the past year, Haenyo has invaded local kitchens including Dylan’s Oyster Cellar, Forno, R. House, Cafe Andamiro, and Village Square Cafe to serve its signature Korean-fusion dishes to the masses. Now, the pop-up is celebrating its first birthday in style with a special event at Rye in Fells Point. Head to the bar tonight to sample an a la carte menu of small plates such as yukhoe (beef tartare), shrimp and kimchi mandu, and spicy tteokbokki (stir-fried rice cakes) paired with Korean-inspired cocktails crafted by the Rye team. 1639 Thames St. 6-11 p.m. 443-438-3455

7/19: Gathering for the Gazette

Tonight, Mick O’Sheas in Mt. Vernon is hosting this trivia fundraiser to support victims of the tragic shooting in the Capital Gazette newsroom last month. All trivia proceeds and donations will benefit the Capital Gazette Families Fund—which aids survivors and families of the victims with funeral costs, grief and trauma counseling, and other expenses that might arise as a result of the tragedy. In true Charm City fashion, many local establishments including Mother’s Grille, DuClaw Brewing, Alexander’s Tavern are helping to support the cause by donating gift cards to be raffled off as prizes at the event. 328 N. Charles St. 6:30-9 p.m. 410-539-7504

Although San Francisco-based hospitality group Joie de Vivre operates boutique hotels scattered all over the country, its newest property opening in the heart of Mt. Vernon this spring won’t feel like a national chain.

“I’ve worked at a lot of places, traveled, and seen a lot of things,” says Hotel Revival’s executive chef Wilbur Cox, a Baltimore native whose 20-year career includes stints at former favorites Ixia and The Bicycle. “But the thing that is most appealing to me about Revival is that, even though it’s a company that owns the hotel, we are running it like two local, independent restaurants.”

Instead of debuting a carbon copy of one of its hotels in another city, Joie de Vivre is taking a hyper-local approach its Baltimore iteration—playing up its proximity to the Washington Monument and offering two restaurants that make use of local purveyors. Both concepts will have bar programs led by local industry veteran Chelsea Gregoire.

“I couldn’t not be a part of it,” she says about joining the project. “The way that the brand takes the approach of essentially coming into a city, owning it, and loving on it the way that they do really strikes my core. It’s what I’m all about.”

Aside from its 107 guest rooms, the 14-story hotel will boast a lobby-level restaurant and market named Square Meal, as well as a laid-back rooftop destination, Topside, highlighting seafood specialties and local beers.

“Any chef will tell you that they like to have their cash cow, high-end restaurant,” Cox says. “But they also always want to have that fast-casual place where they can be a little more creative and not worry about rules so much. This gives us that opportunity to do both. It’s kind of every chef’s dream.”

Square Meal will offer all-day service, as well as its own retail market with to-go items like local Ceremony Coffee, house-bottled sauces, cured meats sliced to order, and a selection of prepared foods. Cox has enjoyed partnering with area farmers—including Liberty Delight in Reisterstown and Albright Farms in Phoenix—to develop the seasonal menu, with signature dishes including a smoked white fish mousse bagel, soft-boiled Scotch eggs, mustard green agnolotti, and braised pork cheek with red cabbage and pickled mushrooms.

Though there will be plenty of proteins to choose from, Cox says that he’s especially excited to get creative with local produce: “Instead of drying a piece of beef and making jerky, we’ll dry cabbage leaves and make it taste like seaweed,” he says. “We’re really trying to showcase the bounty of the farmers that we’ve partnered up with.”

The downstairs restaurant will also boast a fully stocked bar, featuring a limited-edition bourbon bottled exclusively for the hotel by Old Line Spirits in Highlandtown. Upstairs, the beverage offerings at Topside will be a bit more beer-centric—with 13 East Coast varieties on tap, 60 bottles and cans, a custom brew from Peabody Heights, and a beer-inspired cocktail list.

“Think about those common flavors that you find in beer, like the citrus of a pale ale, or those roasted, nutty, chocolatey notes that you find in a great stout,” Gregoire explains. “Here, we’re breaking it down to a chemical, molecular level and trying to get to the basis of these flavors to put them into a cocktail.”

The beverages at Topside will be paired with Cox’s seafood-centric dishes including a whole-fired blue catfish, bay scallops, and a local seafood tower with mussels, clams, and crab claws. Adds Cox: “When I have an ice-cold beer, I want to be eating something that I can wash down.”

The rooftop hangout will project a laid-back vibe with foosball tables, a giant Connect Four board, and panoramic views of the Washington Monument.

“We want to do something fun,” Gregoire says. “Revival can mean a lot of things, but for me it’s a breath of fresh air. We just want to breathe new life into the city and the community.”

Enhancing the community is something that both Cox and Gregoire say they are most excited about. In fact, the dining team has already partnered with organizations like the Maryland Food Bank and Back On My Feet to help bring opportunities to aspiring chefs.

“If we don’t bring everyone with us as we are moving forward, then we are doing a disservice to our neighbors,” Gregoire adds. “If we’re doing something new, we should bring everyone alongside of us. That’s the true meaning of community.”