OPEN

Larder: Socle, the Old Goucher food-and-drink complex from Clavel owners Lane Harlan and Matthew Pierce, is officially operating in full swing now that its final concept, Larder, has opened its doors. Joining Harlan’s natural wine bar Fadensonnen and celebrated coffee shop Sophomore Coffee in the renovated carriage house on Maryland Avenue, Larder will specialize in hyper-local dishes prepared by chef Helena del Pesco. Area produce—as well as many ingredients fermented in house—will show up in colorful dishes such as crunchy snap pea and asparagus salad and fig-leaf infused yogurt pudding with roasted peaches. While stopping by for lunch or an early dinner (normal hours will be 11 a.m.-7 p.m.), guests will also be able to peruse shelves stocked with artisan pantry goods from local purveyors like Hex Ferments and Keepwell Vinegar, and some from businesses as far as Oaxaca and San Francisco. 2223 Maryland Ave. 410-982-6246

COMING SOON

Old Boy: A grand opening party for Phil Han’s newest concepts inside Broadway Market has been set for Wednesday, May 15. All of the stalls inside the recently renovatedFells Point institution have been celebrating staggered grand openings since March. Veteran vendors Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, Sophia’s Place, and Sal’s Seafood were the first to premiere, followed by newbie Thai Street. Now, the concepts from Han of Dooby’s are ready to make their debut.

Among them is Old Boy, an authentic Korean eatery whose kitchen will be headed up by Irvin Seo of the popular Haenyo pop-up. In addition, Han’s team will operate a centerpiece bar called Fat Tiger, which is open now serving an all-day menu of coffee, beer, wine, and cocktails. The bar team will also oversee El Tigre—a tiki-inspired play on the Fat Tiger concept that will expand bar service outside to the market’s patio. At the grand opening party, guests will enjoy a soju ice luge at Old Boy, complimentary welcome punch at Fat Tiger, and plenty of tiki drinks from El Tigre outside. 1640 Aliceanna St.

Rock & Toss Crab House: The developers at Greenberg Gibbons are adding yet another eatery to Foundry Row in Owings Mills this summer. The mixed-use development already boasts plenty of fast-casual destinations including Nalley Fresh, Sunset Raw Juice Bar, Mission BBQ, and Zoë’s Kitchen, and now, this Bowie-based seafood spot is also joining the lineup. The 3,060-square-foot restaurant will offer shrimp, baby clams, green mussels, crawfish, and, of course, blue crabs. The entrees arrive covered in signature cajun, lemon pepper, or garlic-butter seasonings. 10100 Reisterstown Rd.

Whole Foods Towson: In other development news, Greenberg Gibbons and Caves Valley Partners have inked a deal with Whole Foods to be the anchor tenant in the forthcoming Towson Row project on the corner of York Road and Towsontown Boulevard. Whole Foods was announced as a tenant years ago, but later pulled out of the ongoing project. Now, the grocery chain is back on board with plans for two levels of parking, a mezzanine space, and an outdoor dining terrace. Construction on the store is expected to begin later this year and it will likely open in late 2021. When complete, the five-acre development will also include 75,000 square feet of retail and residential space, student housing units, luxury apartments, and a 220-room hotel. York Rd. & Towsontown Blvd., Towson.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/11: Diamondback Brewing Mole Stout Release
This weekend, the team from Diamondback Brewing will officially release its new bourbon barrel-aged mole stout, Tal Uno—a special collaboration with local chocolate expert Jinji Fraser of Pure Chocolate by Jinji. The 9-percent ABV beer was aged in Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels for 14 months before being infused with Jinji’s ingredients to produce notes of vanilla, spicy pepper, and dark chocolate. Swing by the South Baltimore brewery from 12-7 p.m. on Saturday to sample the release while mingling with brewers who will be on hand to discuss the yearlong process. There will also be live music by funky-folk band Gene & Friends and special Mexican pizzas fired up in the brewery’s new in-house kitchen. 1215 E. Fort Ave. 443-388-9626

SHUT

Atelier Culinaire: This Little Italy fine-dining den closed its doors late last month. Staffed by culinary students at Stratford University, the restaurant was known as a launchpad for young chefs transitioning into the industry. Regulars at the white tablecloth spot enjoyed classics like the roasted rack of lamb, beef bourguignon, and ginger-crusted salmon. There’s no word yet on what will become of the Stiles street space, which is equipped with a built-in bar and mezzanine level. 806 Stiles St.

Gnocco: After three years in Highlandtown, Gnocco will open for its final night of service this Saturday, May 11. The decision comes as Chef Brian Lavin prepares for a move to the West Coast. Throughout its run, the cozy Spanish and French-influenced neighborhood spot became known for its antipasti, comforting pastas, and one of the best Negronis on this side of the pond. 3734 Fleet St.

Prime Corner: Sadly, the days are also numbered for Hampden’s colorful bodega on the corner of 34th Street and Chestnut Avenue. Owner Tess Russell took to social media last week to announce that the she would be closing the store at the end of the month. “The economics of a grocery are super hard,” Russell recently told the Baltimore Business Journal. “Some months we did great, others were tougher.” In the eight months since it opened, the store became known for its artisan grocery items and pantry products from the likes of Taharka Bros., City Seeds, Donut Alliance, and The Lunchbox Lady. Here’s hoping another local operator will reactivate the neighborhood gathering space, which formerly operated as kid-friendly Play Cafe before Russell took over. 3400 Chestnut Ave.

As much as Chef Brian Lavin loves Baltimore—and the local food scene that he has been a part of for the past decade—he says it’s time for a change.

“I’m ready for something different,” says the executive chef of Gnocco in Highlandtown, which will serve its final meal this Saturday, May 11. “I’m still relatively young, and I didn’t want to wake up one day and be like, ‘Oh man it would have been great to experience a different city.’ Exploring different food cultures is something I’ve always really loved.”

In fact, the restaurant itself was inspired by Lavin’s study-abroad adventures throughout Spain and Europe with Gnocco’s general manager, Sam White. Now, he and the team have made the bittersweet decision to close the spot as he prepares to move to California to be closer to his sister, who is a pastry chef in Beverly Hills.

“Every time I go and visit her, I see what a thriving food scene it is,” says Lavin, a Howard County native. “And with all of the produce there, it’s kind of like a chef’s dream. I just thought it was a good time get a little change of pace.”

Lavin and White had been contemplating the future of the restaurant since last summer, when their two-year contract with the owners of the building came to an end. They were presented with the choice of either buying the property themselves, or putting it on the market.

It was around that same time that the restaurant technically changed its name to Gnocchetto, after it was getting confused with another spot of the same moniker in New York City. The new name never really caught on with diners—though the translation of “little dumpling” was certainly fitting.

Given the size of the tiny kitchen at Gnocco, they put the building up for sale and looked around for a larger space. Having formerly worked at local spots Salt and Fork & Wrench, Lavin’s skill set included techniques like milling his own flour and making pastas in house, but all of that was tough to execute in a cramped kitchen with only three burners.

“We were really limited in what we could do back there,” he says. “We took our time to talk to a lot of people about spaces that were available, and really figure out what we wanted to do.”

After a number of months, the property is still sitting on the market, so the team has decided that it was the right time for everyone to move forward.

“We have such a tight-knit crew here,” Lavin says, mentioning White and veteran server Gilles Mascarell, who came from Arômes and Salt. “We could have tried to keep it open if one of us were to leave, but we were really a team together.”

Looking back at Gnocco’s three-year run, Lavin mentions memories like the annual Feast of the Seven Fishes dinners and bar collaborations with Highlandtown neighbors Old Line Spirits and Monument City Brewing.

Aside from special events, the restaurant became a neighborhood spot for regulars to indulge in antipasti, comforting pastas, and White’s top-notch wine and cocktails—including one of the best Negronis in town.

For his final night of service this week, Lavin is planning to feature favorites off of the opening menu, including the squid ink gnocchi with tomatoes and spicy breadcrumbs, and grilled octopus with romesco sauce.

“Hopefully, everyone will drink all of the prosecco at the end of the night,” he says with a laugh. “I’m sure there will be some emotions, but we wanted to end on a nice high note.”

There’s no word yet on what will become of the space, but Lavin hopes that it would be appealing to another restaurant given all of the growth in Highlandtown. He feels grateful to have called the neighborhood, and Baltimore, home for the past 10 years.

“We’re proud of our tiny, little corner restaurant,” he says. “I appreciate all of the great opportunities I’ve had here, and all of the relationships I’ve developed with the guests. You have people who come in every week and they’re kind of like family. I’ll miss that.”

EAT

Dec. 22-23: Feast of the Seven Fishes

Gnocco, 3734 Fleet St. 5 p.m. $69.

While it’s not quite Christmas Eve yet, this cozy corner spot in Highlandtown is celebrating this beloved Italian-American custom a few days early with a lavish five-course dinner. Since Feast of the Seven Fishes, or “Festa Dei Sette Pesci,” is all about seafood, start with oysters on the half shell and arancini with clams and mussels before moving onto delectable main dishes like squid ink garganelli, saffron gnocchi, and red wine braised octopus and cuttlefish.

DRINK

Dec. 22: Save Your Soul Party

Paulie Gee’s Hampden, 3535 Chesnut Ave. 10 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Free.

After a year of record-setting rains and one political scandal after another, we need to shake off the negative vibes and end 2018 on a high note. Luckily, Paulie Gee’s Hampden is combining its late-night specials on amaro pours and the classic Baltimore pairing of a shot and a beer with enough deep cuts from soul stars Etta James, The Supremes, and Aretha Franklin to keep you grooving all night long. Don’t miss one of the city’s best dance parties and the chance to spin and shimmy out of this year in style.

SEE

Dec. 22-23: It’s a Wonderful Life

The Senator Theatre, 5904 York Rd. Free.

While more recent Christmas movies like Elf and How the Grinch Stole Christmas have become holiday-season staples, nothing beats Frank Capra’s 72-year-old classic It’s a Wonderful Life. This Saturday, watch this sentimental classic come alive on the big screen, and for the first time, The Senator Theatre will show it again on Sunday for double the feels. Plan to bring non-perishable food items in lieu of admission to benefit GEDCO Cares Food Pantry and get to the theater early to hear live holiday tunes by Jim Jones of The Music Workshop.

HEAR

Dec. 22: Baltimore Boom Bap Society

The Windup Space, 12 W. North Ave. 9 p.m.-12 a.m. $8.

Since DJs/producers Erik Spangler and Wendel Patrick founded the Baltimore Boom Bap Society back in 2011, this monthly improvised hip-hop event has become a breeding ground for some of the city’s best experimental beats and cross-genre collaborations. This Saturday marks the start of the society’s eighth season and its new Saturday night slot at The Windup Space, and to celebrate DJ Dubble8 and Patrick will host nine up-and-coming musicians, including locally-loved beatboxer Shodekeh, emcees Ill Conscious and Black Root, and violinist Blair Skinner.

DO

Dec. 22: Charm City Klezmer Holiday Dance Party

Creative Alliance, 3134 Eastern Ave. 8 p.m. $15-18.

Although the eight days of Hanukkah ended a few weeks ago, this annual holiday klezmer (aka Jewish-inspired folk) dance party is worth extending the celebration for. Head to the Creative Alliance on Saturday night to dance the horah, learn traditional Yiddish dances from performers Judith Geller and Michael Raitzyk, and spend the evening shaking off those extra holiday calories.

NAME CH-CH CHANGES

Gnocchetto: After some confusion arose with a restaurant of a similar name in New York City, Gnocco in Highlandtown recently changed its name to Gnocchetto—which translates to “small dumpling” in Italian. “We think it will just be easier in the long run,” said general manager Sam White, in a statement. Despite the name change, the Mediterranean-inspired spot is sticking to its roots with worldly wines, antipasti, and a slew of locally sourced pastas that use milled rye and red wheat flour from Migrash Farms in Randallstown. In fact, chef Brian Lavin recently expanded the pasta offerings to include four options per evening. Be on the lookout for a new red beet tagliatelle with swiss chard or the Semolina trofie with arugula, basil pesto, pine nuts, and summer truffle. 3734 Fleet St., 443-449-6540

Sobeachy Haitian Cuisine: Festival-goers might be familiar with Green Grass Tall Trees, the Haitian-Caribbean purveyor that has served up its authentic eats at large-scale events including Light City, Artscape, and AFRAM. (It also routinely pops up at the Canton Waterfront, Fells Point, and Pratt Street farmers’ markets.) Recently, husband-and-wife owners Leo and Chanel Fleurimond changed the pop-up’s name to Sobeachy Haitian Cuisine to better reflect the vibe to their customers. “Everyone always confused us with a juice bar with wheat grass or a landscaping company,” Chanel says with a laugh. “We wanted to have a name that connects to exactly what we are.” Diners can catch Sobeachy at R. House throughout the weekend to sample signature dishes including smoked turkey sausage with sweet peppers, the “Taste of Haiti” plate with stewed chicken and plantains, and the customer-favorite “Endless Summer” refresher that combines pineapple, watermelon, lemonade, and tropical fruit juices. 301 W. 29th St.

NEWS

16 On The Park: Savor every last second of summer on the patio of this rooftop restaurant on the Johns Hopkins Medical Campus—which switched up its menu earlier this week. The new seasonal menu will be offered all day, and include a special list of late-night eats on Fridays and Saturdays from 10-11 p.m. New items to look out for include a seafood tower for two, a cobb salad with Old Bay ranch, and a house burger topped with cheddar and crispy tobacco onion. Pair all of the eats with new Charm City-inspired cocktails like the “Spirit of B More” (Maestro Dobel reposado, fruit rouge crush juice, and ancho reyes) or “A Little Crush in the Park,” a spin on a classic Orange Crush with house tangerine foam. 800 N. Wolfe St. 443-524-8450

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/5-12: Chef Wolf’s Special Southern Menu at Charleston
Chef Cindy Wolf is celebrating the end of summer with a special Southern menu at Charleston in Harbor East. For one week only, diners are invited to feast on a prix-fixe menu highlighting buttermilk-marinated chicken, Gambian roasted eggplant and groundnut soup, Creole shrimp with andouille sausage, blackened red snapper, slow-cooked pork shoulder, and drunken peaches in a whiskey sorbet. Optional wine pairings will be available to help wash down all of the Lowcountry fare. 1000 Lancaster St. 410-332-7373. $94

9/12: Kitchen Table Series at Wit & Wisdom
This weekly series of intimate dinners is returning to Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore next week. The kickoff will have a family-style Italian theme and feature a menu executed by chef Randall Matthews. Snag a spot at the 12-seat table to indulge in white truffle arancini, wild mushroom polenta, hand-rolled spaghetti with crushed red pepper flakes, Mediterranean bass with San Marzano tomatoes, and chocolate and citrus cannolis. 200 International Drive. 6:30 p.m. 410-576-5800.

9/26: Sicilian Cooking Classes at Cosima
Throw on an apron and join chef Donna Crivello to learn about the flavors and cooking techniques inspired by her Sicilian heritage. The inaugural cooking class later this month will feature traditional Sicilian plates including seared scallops, saffron risotto, and limoncello ricotta cheesecake. The monthly series will continue with an Autumn Dinner in October, a small plates seminar in November, and a classic Feast of the Seven Fishes class to celebrate the holidays in December. Cosima, 3000 Falls Rd. 6:30 p.m. 443-708-7352, $85.

SHUT

The Fudgery: This weekend will be the last for Baltimoreans to hear the confectioners at The Fudgery sing while turning chocolate at Harborplace. After 33 years inside the Light Street Pavilion, the sweets shop will shutter its doors for good this Sunday, September 9. “Unfortunately, time changes things and there is not enough of our customer base to support a profitable operation,” The Fudgery founder and CEO A.C. Marshall said in a press release. Aside from its house-made fudge and colorful candy apples, The Fudgery will be remembered for being the shop that spawned homegrown R&B sensation Dru Hill—whose members practiced their songs while working there in the early ’90s. While Harborplace has seen many vendors close throughout its ongoing renovation process, new retailers including Build-A-Bear and Mason’s Famous Lobster Rolls are planning to set up shop in the development in the coming weeks. 301 Light St.

OPEN

Urban Plates: After a successful debut at Tysons Corner earlier this summer, California chain Urban Plates is opening its second East Coast location at the Mall in Columbia on Monday, August 27. The restaurant’s rustic-meets-modern vibe features interior greenery, hanging lights, and dark woods throughout. And although the eatery focuses on cafeteria-style service, don’t expect the same options that were served at your college dining hall. Chefs stand behind the counter to prepare scratch-made meals ranging from a Nicoise salad with grilled ahi to a plate of barbecue ribs in a habanero-mango sauce. Diners can mix-and-match entrees with sides (think roasted Old Bay potatoes and beet salad with walnuts) and desserts including chocolate pudding and a mango tart. 10300 Little Patuxent Parkway, Columbia, 443-741-8787.

Baltimore Built Bistro: For many local barflies, there’s still a wave of nostalgia that hits when walking past the old Bad Decisions space on Fleet Street in Fells Point. But now, a new dining concept is breathing life into the vacant space. Baltimore Built Bistro (B3) will officially cut the ribbon on Friday, August 24 at 3 p.m. Featuring a menu of specialty cocktails, soups, sandwiches, appetizers, and other lite fare, the bistro will be open for lunch and dinner on weekdays and serve brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. Stop by during opening weekend to sample dishes such as a poached pear salad, grilled chicken sandwich with cranberry pesto, or house burger topped with raw onion on a toasted bun. 1928 Fleet St. 443-438-9564

Charles Village Pub: The wait is finally over, Charles Village. Since the community’s beloved watering hole suffered a grease fire and was forced to shut down back in May, locals have been waiting (some more patiently than others) to return for burgers, wings, discounted drinks, and some quality time with friends and neighbors. And now, the reopening has officially been set for Thursday, August 23. Belly up to the bar this weekend to toast CVP’s return and long future ahead. 3107 St. Paul St. 410-243-1611

COMING SOON

Atlas Restaurant Group Expands to Washington, D.C.: The homegrown restaurant group that birthed Harbor East hotspots Ouzo Bay, Azumi, Loch Bar, Tagliata, The Elk Room, and Italian Disco is expanding its footprint even further in 2019. Aside from opening additional spinoffs in Boca Raton, Florida and Houston, Texas later this year, Atlas recently announced plans to debut two new restaurants at the Moxy Hotel in downtown Washington, D.C. Slated to open in spring 2019, the first of the to-be-determined concepts will take over two floors of the historic Victorian building adjacent to the hotel, which dates back to 1875. The second will be a rooftop restaurant on the top floor of the Moxy. 1011 K. St NW, Washington, D.C.

Avenue Kitchen Launching Late-Night Taco Spot: Riding on the success of Garden Party, the freestanding wine-and-charcuterie shop stationed at the center of the Rotunda shopping center in Hampden, the owners of Avenue Kitchen & Bar are opening yet another kiosk on the property—this time focusing on tacos. Partners Patrick Dahlgren and Bill Irvin have taken to Facebook to poll patrons on the name of the late-night taco spot, which will either be called The Red Eye (a nod to the late flight from the West to the East Coast) or LIT, which stands for “little interesting tacos.” Night owls will be happy to hear that the shop, expected to open in late September, plans to serve its tacos, burritos, and other Mexican staples from lunchtime until 3 a.m. 711 W. 40th St.

Himalayan Yak: The Canton dining scene will soon welcome this Nepalese spot from Mohan Thapa, the owner of Masala Kitchen in Charles Village and Kumari Restaurant and Bar in Mt. Vernon. Taking over the former home of Cask & Grain—which shuttered its doors back in June—on O’Donnell Square, the spot will highlight authentic Nepalese and Indian dishes such as paneer chili, chicken vindaloo, lamb kabobs, and vegetable samosas. Himalayan Yak will open with dine-in and carry-out service, and plans to start delivery in the area in the coming weeks. 2823 O’Donnell St. 410-522-7678

Streets Market & Cafe: Earlier this week, Streets Market & Cafe—the independent grocery chain that has a store downtown on North Charles Street—announced plans to open a second Baltimore location at Yard 56, the forthcoming office-and-retail development in Greektown. Expected to open next year, the 23,000-square-foot market will offer its fresh produce, meat, seafood, baked goods, and organic household products to the Southeast Baltimore community. “Streets Markets adds an important shopping element to this development,” said David Bramble of property manager MCB Real Estate, in a press release. “Our intent is to create a project that becomes a regular part of the lives and routines of the local community.” 5601 Eastern Avenue.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

8/23: Scalawags Pit Meat Pop-Up at Gnocco
Scalawags Pit Meat, the smokin’ side project spearheaded by Gnocco general manager Sam White, is hosting a pop-up at the Highlandtown hangout tonight from 6-9 p.m. White will be mixing up whiskey cocktails—made with spirits from Republic Restoratives Distillery in Washington, D.C.—with guest bartender Alex Higdon. Aside from taking advantage of the all-night happy hour deals, be sure to sample all of the mouthwatering beef, turkey, and ribs that Scalawags pit master Kevin James will be serving up from his beloved barrel smoker. 3734 Fleet St. 6 p.m. Free. 443-449-6540.

8/30: Summer in Provence Dinner
If you haven’t had the chance to check out Ludlow Market, the new concept in the former Wine Market Bistro space in Locust Point, Chef Christopher Audia is flexing his skills with a special wine pairings dinner highlighting the Provence region of France. The three-course menu features dishes such as roasted tomato soup, mussels, and rockfish in a saffron broth; braised short rib in a red wine jus; and cream-stuffed brioche in orange blossom water. 921 E. Fort Ave. 6:30 p.m. $69. 410-244-6166

Highlandtown locals are used to seeing Sam White behind the bar at Gnocco, where he is usually shaking up Italian cocktails or uncorking worldly bottles of wine at the white marble bar. But regulars shouldn’t be surprised to see him sweating in front of a black steel smoker this summer.

Last month, White and his longtime friend Kevin James launched Scalawags Pit Meat—a side project focusing on barrel-smoked pit beef, turkey, chicken, and other carnivorous classics.

“It’s been fun going from a fine-dining thing to doing something more laid-back and hanging outside,” White says. “Pit beef is such a classic Maryland dish. It’s interesting to learn more about it and how people like their sandwiches—with horseradish or without. Onions or no onions. It’s really personal.”

The duo first started experimenting with smoking meats after James received a barrel smoker as a wedding present a few years ago. Since then, they have been testing recipes in his backyard, mixing different woods, proteins, and marinades.

“The pit barrel isn’t really a smoker and it isn’t really a grill,” James explains. “It’s this weird in-between cooking machine. But it’s pretty easy to use and all of the sudden I found myself firing it up every other weekend and turning out really tasty stuff. It really all started out with us having fun while drinking Natty Boh in the backyard.”

In July, Scalawags hosted its inaugural pop-up at Monument City Brewing in Highlandtown—eventually selling out of pit beef sandwiches, pork loin, turkey breast, and smoked corn with clarified butter. In the future, the duo is looking forward to adding ribs, whole chicken, and smoked bacon BLTs to the menu.

James says that perfecting the smoking technique is all about timing, temperature, and choosing the right wood chips.

“The way the environment is in the barrel itself makes for a really delicious product,” he says. “The juices from the meat actually drip down into the charcoal. When you open up the lid there’s just this mushroom cloud of smoke and deliciousness that really takes the cake.”

The next event for Scalawags—which was named after James’ former gig working on the Urban Pirates ship—will be at Gnocco on Thursday, August 23. James will serve up hearty sandwiches that White will pair with whiskey cocktails from Republic Restoratives Distillery in Washington, D.C.

The team is also looking forward to partnering with Old Line Spirits, another one of Gnocco’s neighbors in Highlandtown, to host a third pop-up and put more of a personal touch on some of the smoked meats.

“The distillers from Old Line reached out and offered to let us use wood chips from their whiskey barrels,” James says. “I was floored because it’s local and it adds a certain kind of flavor that you’re not getting anywhere else. It’s typical Smaltimore.”

OPEN

QQ Boba: Don’t be surprised if you happen to see an influx of bubble tea photos flooding your Instagram feeds. Earlier this week, QQ Boba joined the scene on The Avenue in Hampden, offering smoothies, juices, and a wide array of boba—the trendy Taiwanese milk teas often enhanced with flavored jellies and chewy tapioca balls. Taking over the former home of Polenta Cafe, the spot specializes in bubble tea favorites like passionfruit green tea and the lavender-hued taro milk tea. The shop is open from 11 a.m.-9 p.m. on weekdays and Sundays, and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. 900 W. 36th St., 443-682-3502

Gordon Ramsay Steak: Famously fiery celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay came to town earlier this week to unveil Gordon Ramsay Steak, his new restaurant inside Horseshoe Casino Baltimore. Ramsay’s first East Coast dining destination features various cuts of meat and seafood dishes, as well as fare like beef wellington and sticky toffee pudding that serves as a nod to the chef’s British roots. The interior also furthers the U.K. vibe, with plush furniture and a huge Union Jack flag on the ceiling above the dining room. (Read more about Ramsay’s restaurant and his thoughts on Baltimore.) 1525 Russell St., 443-931-4386

NEWS

Colossal Blue: If you’re on the hunt for ultra-local gifts to send to foodie friends this season, this new startup might be your best bet. Recently launched by lifelong Marylanders George and Catherine Nichols, Colossal Blue ships traditional crab cakes, crab balls, and crab soups nationwide. All of the cakes are hand-made using the family’s decades-old recipe, then packaged with black ice in a polystyrene box to maintain an ideal temperature for next-day shipping.

POP-UP PLANS:

TO 12/3: Big Bean Theory at R. House

Big Bean Theory, the celebrated soup stall at the Mount Vernon Marketplace, is setting up shop at a new communal food hall this week. Throughout the weekend, swing by R. House to sample chef Eula McDowell’s specialties including hot soups, fish sandwiches, macaroni and cheese, and black bean burgers. 301 W. 29th St., 443-347-3570

12/3: Haenyo at Village Square Cafe

The dudes behind this Korean-fusion pop-up are certainly keeping busy. On the heels of takeovers at spots like R. House in Remington and Cafe Andamiro in Mt. Vernon, Collin Morstein and Irvin Seo are heading to Cross Keys this weekend. The pop-up at Village Square Cafe will have a fall harvest theme, featuring dishes like japchae (sweet potato noodles and vegetables), songpyeon (sweet rice cake), doenjang-jiggae (bean curd soup), and Korean-style meatballs made with beef from Liberty Delight Farms in Reisterstown. 66 Village Square, 5-10 p.m., $8-18, 410-433-2233

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/30: Pig Roast + Tiki Party at Alma Cocina Latina

If you’re already missing the summer heat, Canton’s Alma Cocina Latina has got you covered. At this all-out tiki bash, sip on refreshing punches from Denizen Rum, feast on a 17-hour smoked Rortega Farms pig, and tap your feet to live music by flamenco guitarist Michael Perez. All while snacking on traditional Venezuelan favorites like arepas, cachapas (corn cakes), pickled onions, and cilantro mojo. 2400 Boston St., 6:30 p.m., $40, 667-212-4273

12/6: Second Annual Truffle Feast at Gnocco
This Highlandtown dining destination is hosting a special dinner to celebrate the peak of truffle season. Chef Brian Lavin’s six-course menu featuring wine pairings from Northern Italy (think cortese and prosecco brut) will include dishes such as savory pumpkin sformato (similar to a soufflé) with caramelized onions and crispy leeks, fontina tortellini with brown butter and hazelnuts, and seared sea scallops with a sea urchin crema. 3734 Fleet St., $179, 7 p.m., 443-449-6540

SHUT

Tooloulou: Locals lost a go-to for pizza and po’boys earlier this week, after Cajun eatery Touloulou shuttered its doors in Belvedere Square. Owners Shawn and Megan Lagergren took to Facebook to announce the news, stating that the decision was a difficult one: “Blood, sweat, tears, and so much sacrifice have gone into our business,” the post reads. “Sometimes, it’s not enough. We are deeply, deeply hurting with this loss and the closing of Tooloulou. Thank you for coming in and making memories with us.” There’s no word yet on what will become of the spot, which was best known for its shrimp and grits, fried oysters, kale salads, and classic beignets. 529 E. Belvedere Ave. 

Five things to eat, drink, see, hear, and do with your Charm City weekend.

EAT

Dec. 24: Feast of The Seven Fishes

Gnocco, 3734 Fleet St. 5-8 p.m. 443-449-6540.

One of the most beloved Italian-American traditions is the Feast of the Seven Fishes, or “Festa Dei Sette Pesci.” This Christmas Eve custom is all about two things: family and seafood. This year, Gnocco will serve its first-ever Feast of the Seven Fishes dinner featuring five lavish seafood courses. Start a new Christmas Eve tradition and try the crispy fried eel garnished with lemon and salsa verde, squid ink gnocchi with tomato-braised calamari, and end the meal with whole-grilled Dorado.

DRINK

Dec. 24: Yippee-Ki-Yay!

Blue Pit BBQ & Whiskey Bar, 1601 Union Ave. 9 p.m.-1 a.m. 443-948-5590. Free.

Welcome to the party, pal. The laid-back Hampden hangout will continue its annual tradition of showing the 1980s classic Die Hard on Christmas Eve with plenty of eggnog and whiskey to go around. Catch one of the two viewings (Movie starts at 9 p.m. and again at 11 p.m.) or stay all night for the Chinese food and explosion-filled fun. Pull up a seat, grab a glass of rye whiskey, and get ready to debate why Die Hard is still considered a Christmas movie.

SEE

Dec. 25: Ravens vs. Steelers

4:30 p.m. on NFL Network.

After a narrow victory over the Philadelphia Eagles last Sunday, Ravens fans are hoping Santa will check off their wish lists and deliver a win over the Pittsburgh Steelers. The notorious rivals will face off Christmas Day to decide which team will lead the AFC North division into playoff season. If you want to watch the game from your lucky barstool or just need a way to escape from your extended family; don’t worry, some of the best Ravens bars like Mother’s Grille, Kisling’s Tavern, and Abbey Burger Bistro will be open for the game. Whether you’re cheering from the couch or knocking back Ravens Bombs at Charles Village Pub, don’t miss the rivalry game of the season.

HEAR

Dec. 23: A Very Jerry Christmas

The 8×10, 10 East Cross St. 9 p.m.-1:30 a.m. 410-625-2000.

Already sick of listening to Christmas carols? Get “Frosty the Snowman” out of your head and catch Baltimore singer-songwriter Cris Jacobs during the last leg of his two-night show at The 8×10. As part of the club’s DEADcember event, Jacobs is bringing his signature blend of sweet and rugged sounds to Friday’s sold-out crowd. This is the last chance to hear Jacobs in Baltimore in 2016, so ditch the in-laws and sing along to songs from his latest solo album, “Dust to Gold.” If you couldn’t score a ticket, Jacobs and Friends will be back at The 8×10 during the first weekend of the new year.

DO

Dec. 25: Baltimore Chanukah Festival

McKeldin Square in the Inner Harbor, East Pratt St. 2-5 p.m. Free.

For the past two weeks, the Esther Ann Menorah has stood in McKeldin Square as part of the Baltimore skyline. The 30-foot menorah symbolizes the idea of spreading light throughout the city, and will be lit as the main event of this year’s Chanukah festival. Before heading to the menorah-lighting ceremony at 4:30 p.m., follow the dancing driedels to the Chanukah Wonderland for an olive press show, face painting, and live music starting at 2 p.m. Grab a Chanukah doughnut or a pastrami sandwich from the kosher food truck The Brooklyn Sandwich Co. and enjoy this lively festival at the Inner Harbor.

As devoted fans of both Fork & Wrench and Salt, we were delighted and intrigued to hear that Brian Lavin—former executive chef at both venues—had opened up his own shop in a snug corner row house in Brewers Hill. Lavin’s cooking features subtle but oft-surprising combinations, like a fondly remembered sweet-and-sour date purée and tzatziki pairing devised to accompany an oven-roasted duck at Salt.

We wondered if that sensibility would translate to this new venture’s menu, which features a narrower range of Italian and Spanish flavors on display in a roster of mostly small plates and pastas. And we wondered, too, if the challenge of running his own kitchen would blunt his talents. Happily, Lavin seems more than up to the task. On the outside, Gnocco looks like your typical neighborhood haunt, but on the inside, Lavin is serving up some of the most inventive cuisine around.

Food takes pride of place here. The rustic simplicity of the environs—repurposed wood, fresh flowers, dark colors—seems designed to provide a quiet backdrop to plates that are often spectacular in their colorful artistry. There’s a bar on one side, a small dining room on the other. We love that there’s Prosecco on tap, Italian aperitivo and digestivo, a well-curated wine list, and some beautiful craft cocktails on offer (try the Negroni Sfumato with smoked rhubarb amaro). And we love the thoughtful, attentive service. But the noise level? Not so much. When the place gets crowded—and as word spreads, this is increasingly the case—it’s deafening, the single glitch in our overall experience. But focus on the food and you’ll soon forget that you have to shout to convey how fabulous it is.

This is especially true of the ever changing roster of nine or 10 small plates, each one a gem of execution. A succulent mound of lobster salad floats over cool cucumber soup dotted with tarragon. Pale, silky scallop crudo gets color and spark from bright bites of tomato escabèche and basil. Grilled head-on shrimp, draped over romesco sauce and showered with bits of crispy garlic, melds beautifully with creamy roasted leeks.

On our first visit, we especially loved the grilled octopus. You wouldn’t think there’d be much you could do to make octopus look pretty, but Lavin manages it. The tentacles (nicely charred on the outside, tender on the inside) sat atop a salad composed of contrasting pale and bright green fennel and arugula, a circle of deep purple grapes echoing the cephalopod’s faintly violet hue. It’s typical of the great care that goes into plating here, a thoughtful approach that doubles your dining pleasure. The dish had disappeared from the menu by our next visit, but we happily discovered a new seafood favorite: crispy polenta-crusted oysters beside a pool of green goddess dressing.

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Veal Sweetbreads
Nestled on a bed of grilled green onions, lightly breaded veal sweetbreads reveal a creamy richness beneath their crisp coating. They sit atop a purée of roasted corn that brings out the “sweet” in the sweetbread and underscores their delicate flavor.

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Three small pasta dishes round out the trove of small plates. One night, delicate thyme tagliatelle with chanterelles and sweet corn made us swoon. A little later in the summer, a heartier squid ink gnocchi with tomato-braised calamari and mint had us slowly tasting to discern the way each element complemented the others. We admit we’ve been so captivated by the smaller dishes that we’ve only tried one of the two entrees on offer—a sweet-fleshed, whole, grilled red snapper garnished with snap peas and pickled onions.

We only tried one dessert: warm ricotta doughnuts glazed with fennel honey and served with ginger ice cream. These made my dinner partner clap her hands with childlike glee.

Next time, maybe we’ll eat nothing but entrees and desserts. And rest assured, there will be a next time. There’s a braised wild boar shoulder in chickpea stew we’d love to catch when it’s available, and a yummy sounding chocolate panna cotta with blueberry jam that we hope will stay on the dessert menu. We’re dreaming of Lavin’s way with autumn’s bounty already.

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GNOCCO 3734 Fleet St., 443-449-6540. HOURS Tue.-Thu. 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5-11 p.m.; Sun. 10:30 a.m.- 3 p.m., 5-9 p.m. CUISINE Mediterranean.
PRICES Appetizers and small plates: $9.95-18.95; pastas and entrees: $16.50-25.95; desserts: $8-19. ATMOSPHERE Rustic.