Tug on the samurai sword door pull as you enter Azumi, move beyond the bar with Japanese characters laser-cut into a steel sheet, then pick your path: a faux eel-skin banquette in the lounge, the raw-fish bar gleaming with live sea urchin, or a booth with breathtaking views of the harbor.

Welcome to The Land of the Rising Sun by way of The Land of Pleasant Living.

When we heard that Alex Smith and his partner George Aligeorgas of the Atlas Restaurant Group (known for the Harbor East hotspot Ouzo Bay) decided to stick with the concept of Japanese fine-dining when Pabu closed on the same site last year, the comparisons from Pabu’s dedicated fan base—present company included—seemed inevitable.

Wisely, Smith and Aligeorgas kept what worked at the former izakaya (Japanese for pub), going so far as to rehire master sake sommelier Tiffany Dawn Soto to preside as a consultant over the beverage program, which boasts the best sake selection in the city. And they changed what didn’t—broadening the menu to encompass not only authentic Far East imports (live black tiger shrimp and baby octopus from the famed Tsukiji Market in Japan), but also more approachable fare such as cooked sushi rolls, rock shrimp, and even roasted free-range chicken for the inevitable finicky eater.

While Pabu was pretty, designer Patrick Sutton has slicked up the space for Azumi (think: Nobu, Morimoto, and other internationally known fish emporiums) and created a more fluid flow, while even the front door was hard to find at the former iteration.

When my dining companion and I arrived early on a Saturday night, the trendy house music was already in full force, and grown-up versions of the cool kids were holding court at the buzzy bar. Though our waitress was sweet, her understanding of the menu seemed mostly memorized, so, as was our habit at Pabu, we summoned Soto (who actually helped recruit chef Eiji Takase and lived in Japan for several years).

Our dining neighbor offered that the fish was as good as any he’d had while on a recent trip to Tokyo.

While Soto can wax rhapsodic over the sake selection, she is equally excited about helping design your dinner from a menu comprised of starters, sushi, entrees, niku (meat) and sides, as well as an omakase chef’s choice tasting menu. The tab can get high here in no time, so plan properly and take Soto’s unerring advice on the best way to move through your meal.

Since its opening in December, I’ve visited Azumi numerous times and have taken every tack, from sampling the bold (bite-sized Sawagani crabs flash-fried with sea salt and lime) to trying the more banal—though no less delicious—
age dashi tofu, which was crisp and impossibly soft and resting in a soy dashi broth.

On this visit, we ordered from almost every section of the menu, though it’s the fish dishes—served hot, cold, cooked, or raw—that rate. Our favorite appetizers included an exquisitely plated kanpachi amberjack glistening with black-truffle oil and a tangy yuzu juice served on a crisp yucca chip, and the exceptionally fresh blue-fin toro sashimi (flown in daily from Japan). We ordered ours nigiri-style, with the buttery belly meat blanketing a ball of rice, and served properly with a dab of wasabi tucked between the layers, so that no additional sauce was needed. As we savored each bite, our dining neighbor offered that the fish was as good as any he’d had while on a recent trip to Tokyo.

On the sushi side of the menu, we chose from among a list of more than a dozen unique rolls. Having found fish bliss with the miso-marinated black cod entrée on a previous visit, we were eager to try the black cod roll fortified with spicy miso, crispy satsumaimo (Japanese sweet potato), and a kick of shiso ginger. It was as pleasing to the eyes as it was to the taste buds. A plate of delicate Scottish salmon crudo garnished with beet threads and flower petals also astonished.

To go with our surf, we included some turf—in this case a Wagyu New York strip steak. Expectations ran high for the prized piece of rarified A5-grade beef served with three house-made, soy-based dipping sauces. While full-flavored, the intensely marbled meat was difficult to chew and made me wonder: Why $58? On an earlier visit, the Wagyu skirt steak—way more fairly priced at $29—was preferable to my palate (and my pocketbook).

The desserts are artful and elaborate, adorned with hand-spun sugar sculptures and 23-karat gold flakes, though the simplest one, a selection of house-made mochi ice creams (mango, green tea, yuzu), is the standout. Sad as I was to say sayonara to Pabu, there are, in fact, other fish in the sea. Or at least along the Patapsco.

Virginia Byrnes is the first to admit that her diet has gone to the dogs. As the owner of Dogma—Life, With Your Pet, Brynes credits canines, as well as her rescue pups Oscar and Gladys, with inspiring her to eat healthfully.

“I feed my dogs the raw diet,” explains Byrnes. “It’s how they eat in nature—real meat, fruit, and vegetables. When I saw how beneficial it was for them to eat a biologically appropriate diet, I decided that maybe I should eat that way, too. Learning how to feed them has totally changed the way I eat.”

Two years ago, Byrnes started following a mostly Paleo-style diet. “I don’t eat any grains,” she says, “and I don’t eat processed foods or anything with more than two or three ingredients on the label. And when it comes to meat, I try to eat only grass-fed meat.” Her new way of eating, she says, has not only helped her shed a few unwanted pounds but it has also had a positive impact on her overall health. “I just feel better,” she says, “and I’m off all my arthritis medication.”

Canines were also a source of inspiration when the lifelong dog lover decided to start her own pet store business in 2006. While Byrnes has enjoyed myriad professional opportunities, including working in the film business (where she helped style the set of John Waters’s Cry-Baby) and even owning a mesquite grill restaurant, Dogma has (literally) been her pet project.

Byrnes’s new way of eating has had a positive impact on her overall health.

“When I was in set design, we would go location scouting and we’d always go to these great houses with all this really cool stuff,” recalls Byrnes. “The homes were beautiful, but when it came to the dogs, there would always be this bad-looking crate and an old towel for them. I was like, ‘Why can’t they have pretty things, too?’ And that’s how I got the idea for this venture.”

Byrnes is equally thoughtful as she reminisces about being raised as the youngest of six in Roland Park. “When I was growing up, we sat down to the dining-room table every night,” says Byrnes. “My mother always had a meat, a starch, and a vegetable on the plate. The meals were fairly simple, but she also made things like kidney stew and things that were adventurous at the time.” Early exposure helped Byrnes develop a palate. “One of my earliest memories is me sitting on top of the wooden raw bar at the North Avenue Market eating oysters with my dad at the age of probably five or six,” she says, smiling.

In addition to thinking about nutrition and taste, Byrnes carefully considers how food looks on a plate. “I love color,” she says. “This dish is easy on the eyes. It came from a friend of mine who got it from Alice Waters’s Chez Panisse Café Cookbook.” This prettily plated dish sums up her cooking philosophy. “I read somewhere that the first taste is with the eyes,” says Byrnes. “To me, those are words to live by.”

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Confetti Tuna

• 2 pounds tuna steaks (1½ inch thick, center cut)
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons coriander seed
• 1 tablespoon fennel seed
• Kosher salt
• Freshly cracked pepper
• 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
• 8-10 radishes, thinly sliced
• Cilantro, coarsely chopped, for garnish

For vinaigrette:

• 3 shallots, finely diced
• Juice of one-half lemon
• Kosher salt
• 3 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Directions

Rub tuna with olive oil. In a mortar, crush the coriander and fennel seeds until their fragrance is released. Sprinkle over tuna with salt and pepper—pressing seasonings gently into the flesh. Chill for several hours.

Heat an iron skillet until very hot. Sear tuna for about a minute on each side. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

Slice tuna into even slices and arrange on plate. Add fennel and radishes.

In a small bowl, add shallots, lemon juice, a pinch of salt and Champagne vinegar. Let rest for 10 minutes. Slowly, whisk in olive oil. Drizzle vinaigrette over dish.

Scatter cilantro for a playful, confetti-like effect!

As a neighborhood eatery, Pepe’s Pizza on Falls Road is hard to beat. It’s been around seemingly forever (actually since 1979). It’s family-run. (Andy Makris took over after the murder of his father, Peter, in 2000.) And its vast menu offers pretty much everything you could ever want at a deli/diner/family restaurant. (Pizza? Check. Gyros? Check. Burgers, Maryland crab soup, and salads? Check, check, and check.) It’s no wonder that North Baltimore families have depended on Pepe’s dine-in and carryout options for decades.

So it was with great interest that we watched Pepe’s recent $1.5-million renovation, including an expansion that doubled its size. We wondered: Would the new Pepe’s retain its humble charm? (We hoped so.) And would the spiffed-up digs prompt a similarly spiffed-up menu? (We hoped not.)

With its new seating area, flat-screen TVs, and earth tones, the updated dining room is a comfortable, if slightly generic, spot for noshing, but the constant bustle of families and kids (with a heavy representation from area private schools) keeps the vibe feeling cheerful and homey.

Except for a few additions (Makris decided to add fried chicken at the request of the construction crews), the menu is largely unchanged. The signature subs boast fillings ranging from Italian meatballs to jumbo fried shrimp and remain satisfying. On a rainy, late-fall night, we opted for the 16-inch eggplant parmigiana and chicken parmigiana subs (both $14.50) and found ourselves rewarded with toasted-bread torpedoes filled with gooey mozzarella, tangy tomato sauce, and thick layers of breaded eggplant and chicken cutlets.

On another occasion, we tried a lamb gyro ($6.50 sandwich, $9.50 platter) stuffed with thin slices of tender meat; lettuce, tomatoes, and onions; and a slightly over-generous dollop of tzatziki sauce. An accompanying Greek salad ($6.95-10.95) leaned a little too heavily on the feta, but the curly fries ($3.95) were golden coils of perfection.

Pepe’s is also open for breakfast, and regulars swear by its platters of eggs, scrapple, sausage, French toast, and breakfast sandwiches.

Whether starting or ending your day at Pepe’s, it’s likely you’ll find exactly what you want. We couldn’t be happier that at Pepe’s, the more things change, the more they stay the same.

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›› Pepe’s Pizza: 6081 Falls Rd., 410-377-3287. Hours: Mon.-Thurs. and Sat. 5:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri. 5:30 a.m.-12 a.m., Sun. 5:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Breakfast: 85¢-$10.50; pizza: $9.95 and up; entrees $2.50-23.95; sides: $2.95-4.75; desserts: $2.99-3.99.

As an only child whose mother was allergic to seafood, WJZ-TV meteorologist and weekend morning anchor Tim Williams ate mostly meat. “My mom didn’t cook seafood very much, because she couldn’t eat it,” says Williams. “We were a meat-and-potatoes household—the one exception is that I had relatives who taught me how to eat crabs.” These days, the Owings Mills-based journalist has expanded his culinary horizons, though he tends to favor Southern cuisine. “I love jambalayas and gumbos and things like that,” he says. “I think it stems from being indecisive when I look at a menu. If I get jambalaya or paella that has shrimp and chicken and pork and beef, I don’t have to decide.”

Through the years, Williams has taken an equally eclectic approach to his professional life. Although he has worked at WJZ for 20 years now, he never set his sights on going into the broadcast business. Williams once considered a career in fashion (even getting accepted to New York’s venerable Fashion Institute of Technology), but instead graduated from Towson University with a degree in communications. “I worked as a telemarketer for MCI, because they were across the street from Towson and recruiting,” he says.

While Williams worked his way up the corporate ladder, the refrain from his customers was always the same. “Based on my voice, people would always ask, ‘Have you ever done radio or television?'” By 1991, Williams went back to school to pursue journalism at the Broadcasting Institute of Maryland (while supporting himself and his high-school-sweetheart wife, Sandra, selling cars). His first big break came as a nightside reporter for Hagerstown’s WHAG-TV. “At the time, they had hired this guy with Robert Redford good looks, and they put him on the air and took him off the air in the same week,” says Williams, laughing at the memory. “He couldn’t read a teleprompter, and he broke into a sweat on the air. He would be reading and, with a shaky hand, he’d stop for a drink of coffee. A week-and-a-half later, he was fired—and they made me the 11 o’clock anchor.”

“Here, you get hurricanes, but also tornadoes, and blizzards—it’s like boot camp for weather people.”

From Hagerstown, Williams made his way to Jacksonville, FL, (where he was nominated for a regional Emmy for his coverage of the hunt for a giant monitor lizard). Then, in 1995, he found his way back to Baltimore as a general-assignment nightside reporter, occasionally filling in for veteran weathermen Bob Turk and Marty Bass. “I was one of the first black weathermen in Baltimore,” says Williams proudly. “And when I got my meteorology degree in 2006, I was one of the first black meteorologists in the city.”

As a native Marylander, Williams points out that forecasting in the Old Line State is not for novices. “If you’re in the South, it’s always hot,” he says. “If you’re in the northern part of the U.S., it’s always cold; if you’re in the west, it never changes, but in Maryland, you have mountains, and it can be 70 degrees here, but 40 degrees on the other side—and the ocean and bay complicate everything. Here, you get tropical storms, but also hurricanes, and tornadoes, and blizzards, and every doggone thing—it’s like a boot camp for weather people!”

While Williams weathers the storms at work, at home with his wife, Sandra, and son, T.J., one of his favorite pasttimes is settling down to a hot, stick-to-the-ribs meal. “My favorite meal of the year is Thanksgiving,” he says. “I can eat stuffing, turkey, gravy, and, yes, butternut squash soup, year-round.”

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Butternut Squash Soup with Granny Smith Apples

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 1 butternut squash; peeled, seeded, and chopped
• 1 Granny Smith apple; peeled, cored, and chopped
• 3 cups chicken broth
• 1 cup water
• ½ teaspoon cinnamon
• ½ teaspoon maple syrup
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish

Directions

In a large pot, melt butter on medium heat. Add onions and carrot and sauté for five minutes. Add the squash, apple, broth, and water to pot. Bring to a boil.

Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes, until squash and carrots have softened. Using a blender, purée the soup, in batches. Add cinnamon, syrup, and salt and pepper. Garnish with parsley. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Bagrationi Extra Dry Sparkling Wine
$14, Georgian Wine House
This festive sparkler comes to us from the country of Georgia, where it is used to kick off feasts both fanciful and humble. Three native varieties—Mtsvane, Tsitska, and Chinebuli—make for the tastiest sparkling wine you’ve never heard of. It certainly pairs well with eggs and sausages, but has enough sweetness around the edges to complement pastries and even maple syrup. Best of all, it’s affordable enough for mimosa makings, too.

Montinore Estate Borealis 2012
$13, Prestige Beverage Group
Montinore Estate crafts elegant, flavorful wines from certified organically grown grapes in Oregon. Their “Borealis” white is a blend assembled from Riesling, Pinot Gris, Müller-Thurgau, and Gewürztraminer. The result is a deftly light, ever-so-slightly sweet white wine that was practically born to brunch. Serve chilled, it will easily wash down whatever you’re having.

Paul Autard Côtes du Rhône 2013
$16, The Country Vintner
Red wine can be tough to tackle for brunch. Easy options include softies like Pinot Noir or the French grape Gamay, most famously grown in Beaujolais. For something equally versatile, but with a bit more punch, consider a wine made from Grenache. With this wine, all it takes is a little tomato in that omelet to transform the experience into a Southern French affair. It also pairs well with deli meats, pâté, and cheeses.

When I first heard that Bryan Voltaggio was opening Aggio in Baltimore, I was elated. The Top Chef runner-up’s highly acclaimed Volt in Frederick has been on my restaurant bucket list for years, though at the time, I had yet to make the 45-minute pilgrimage to Frederick County. (I’ve since been to Volt and I can assure you, it’s worth the trip.) Aggio was my chance to see what all the fuss was about.

My eagerness was only tempered when I learned the upscale Italian restaurant was opening in Power Plant Live (in the former space occupied by Tatu Asian Grill)—it seemed like an odd location. While branching out into the Baltimore market makes perfect sense for the Frederick native (who has been opening restaurants at warp speed, with seven Mid-Atlantic restaurants in seven years, including spots in Frederick; Ashburn, VA; and Washington, D.C., where he opened his first Aggio), why pick a place known more for its nightlife than fine dining?

If my most recent Saturday night visit is any indication, Power Plant Live!—with its ample parking and easy I-83 access—has not proven to be a problem.

Since its opening last June, I’ve visited Aggio several times, and it gets better and better—from the service (going from dismal to dedicated), to the portions (noticeably larger than on my first few visits), to the vibe (from a bit of a ghost town to a pleasant hubbub).

But let’s talk about the food. Aggio is a foodie fantasy with creative compositions you won’t find anywhere else in town. (It’s hard to say whether this place should earn a Michelin star or a nod from the National Endowment for the Arts.) And while imaginative, the food is surprisingly unfussy.

Like many menus these days, the roster is seasonal, with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients and a nod to the Mid-Atlantic. With a kitchen assist from chef de cuisine Dan Izzo, who honed his skills at Mario Batali’s highly acclaimed Del Posto in New York City, Voltaggio cleverly retools Boot Country classics. (A blissful burrata plus grilled Mission figs, Tiger figs poached in red-wine sauce, and slivers of prosciutto stand in for a traditional Caprese appetizer, for instance.)

Aggio is a foodie fantasy with creative compositions you won’t find anywhere else in town.

The lineup includes almost two-dozen plates to pick from, in addition to two six-course tasting menus ($95, plus $65 with wine pairings), though if you’re with a few friends, you can cover just as much ground by ordering a la carte.

While we settled on our selections, we indulged in the small and savory amuse-bouche “funnel cakes,” dusted with Parmesan, followed by a just-out-of-the-oven olive focaccia served with whipped mortadella and a mound of ricotta drizzled with olive oil. Both were delicious, and we had to stop ourselves from asking for seconds.

To maximize our tasting options, our party of four shared a number of plates. Our favorites included the fork-tender charred octopus perfumed with agrumato (lemon oil), which rests on a bed of toasted fregola (basically, Italian couscous), and a novel kale and collards Caesar salad with fried Mid-Atlantic oyster “croutons,” adding a nice element of brininess and crunch.

On the pasta front, we loved the reimagined take on a classic seafood and spaghetti dish. This version featured hand-rolled basil farfalle tossed with tender calamari, and flecked with clams cooked in a lusty lemon, saffron, white wine, and butter broth. Another great addition to the pasta program was a boundary-pushing preparation of chocolate tagliatelle and wild boar. The slightly bitter pasta, fashioned from unsweetened cocoa powder, was balanced by the sweetness of the meat. And the inclusion of orange zest added a surprising lift to an otherwise earthy entree.

We also eagerly tucked into a glorious fall-off-the bone pork osso buco blanketed by a pine nut gremolata, offsetting the deep richness of the pork. A plate of three fat sea scallops sautéed in a brown-butter-balsamic-sage sauce and nestled on top of a mound of sweet spaghetti squash, butternut squash purée, and roasted chestnuts was an exceptional choice, as well.

Given the newly ample portions, it’s not easy to save room for dessert, but you should try. We enjoyed a deconstructed spumoni (one scoop each of chocolate, cherry, and pistachio gelato), while also eyeing an artful tiramisu (presented with a cloud of coffee foam).

While Voltaggio may have lost the Top Chef spot to his younger brother, Michael, he has quickly become one of the top chefs in Baltimore.

Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2013
$18, Cape Starz
The Iona winery was founded in 1998 in the South African region of Elgin. From the beginning, it was understood that this plot in Africa had a climate similar to Sancerre, the source of great Sauvignon blanc in France. Indeed, this offering shows off lemon-driven citrus, subtle minerals, and a long, clean finish. Not only is it a classic Sauvignon blanc, it’s a testament to African wines and a fitting addition to your meal, be it in honor of Kwanzaa or any occasion.

Notte Italiana Prosecco NV
$16, Monsieur Touton
Sparkling wine is the most popular category of wine during the holidays. Whether for toasting friends or ringing in the New Year, bubbles are a mandatory part of any gathering. Prosecco, Italy’s most recognizable sparkler, boasts pear and citrus tones, is juicy and not too dry, and has appeal beyond the wine enthusiast’s palate. Notte Italiana is certified kosher as well, but ready for a party of any denomination.

Chateau Musar Jeune Rouge 2011
$23, The Country Vintner
The “Jeune Rouge” is made of Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. It is a heady red wine with deep red fruits and an earthy, sturdy backbone. If red meat plays into your Christmas feast, this is a fine companion. After all, it was during the Feast of Cana that Jesus performed the miracle of turning water into wine, a mere 75 miles south of this Lebanese chateau!

Imagine a chocolate bar so good for you it’s not even considered candy. That’s the inspiration behind Pure Chocolate by Jinji, created by former holistic nutritional counselor, Jinji Fraser, who sells her line of artisanal chocolates at the Belvedere Square Market (and other locations). 

“I came up with the idea because, when I would counsel them, my clients were asking, ‘What will I do without sweets?’” says Fraser. 

The proof is in the product. One taste of Fraser’s line of raw, sugar- and gluten-free goodness—packed with ingredients including iron-rich bananas and immunity-boosting honey—is all it takes to give up sweets tout de suite. 

Says Fraser, “Take, for example, the raspberry, orange, Brazil nut bar. The vitamin C in the raspberries and oranges enhances hair growth. That’s not to say you’ll look like Rapunzel if you eat it, but if you include these ingredients in your diet, you’ll have great hair, too.” 

Not to mention a clear conscience. “For a lot of people, chocolate is sinful,” explains Fraser. “But dark, raw, organic chocolate is a super food and a great accompaniment to a healthy diet, plus it tastes great, too.”

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Health Nut

Jinji’s hazelnut/chocolate spread is a delicious and healthy alternative for Nutella lovers. It’s great on toast, pretzels, and even ice cream!

Just one bite in to my artfully arranged seasonal salad with three towers of watermelon supporting a carefully perched piece of feta, and I find myself fantasizing about moving to the Maple Lawn community where Ananda is located. Clearly, the locals appreciate it. On a Sunday evening, the Indian restaurant is buzzy with diners, many of whom I hear cooing to owner (and serious dreamboat) Binda Singh that they love having such a special spot within waking distance of their own Howard County ’hood.

Located just a few miles south of Columbia, Ananda is the sequel to Baltimore’s popular Ambassador Dining Room, which is tucked away in the quaint Hopkins-adjacent Tuscany-Canterbury neighborhood. The operations are family affairs—Singh and his older brother, Keir, co-own both restaurants, while their sister, Kinday, runs the kitchen at Ananda. For years, the family had been seeking a spot to expand their brand, before settling on this stately stucco structure, which was two years and $3 million in the making.

It’s no easy feat to recreate the romantic elegance of the Ambassador—with its garden setting, roaring fireplaces, and genteel nod to Colonial India—set inside a ’30s-era Tudor-Gothic apartment building. But Ananda (which means “bliss” in Sanskrit) manages to be even more magical. In addition to two seating areas—a more formal dining room with reclaimed stained-glass windows from a Bolton Hill mansion, as well as a recreation of the Ambassador’s year-round veranda with glass garage doors—there’s a stunning marble bar area and two private dining rooms for parties. Also worth noting, in addition to dinner service, Ananda is open for lunch and has a so-called daily “bliss hour” (from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.) for small plates and cut-rate specialty cocktails (put the Mumbai mule on your drink list), plus wine and beer.

While Ananda’s menu echoes the Ambassador’s lineup, the dishes—northern Indian in origin—are cleaner and even more refined. There’s also an ostensible farm-to-table focus thanks to the restaurant’s relationship with Howard County growers. In addition to expertly prepared Indian staples such as lamb vindaloo, chicken korma, alu gobi, and palak paneer, also on offer are house specials such as a moist halibut cold-pressed in organic coconut milk and enrobed in banana leaves, a kerala cake (lump crabmeat tossed with local Silver Queen corn and toasted mustard seeds), and kulu kofta (tender, braised spring lamb, which gets its zing from diced Vidalia onions and a good kick of garlic).

Crab Malabar; Ananda co-owner Binda Singh. —Photography by Scott Suchman

For the sake of comparison, we started our meal with the bengan khas (baby eggplant simmered in fresh tomatoes and topped with a creamy yogurt-and-mint sauce and served with garlic naan for dipping), our go-to dish when dining at the Ambassador. The flavorful eggplant dish did not disappoint and was every bit as delicious here. The avocado-and-roasted-corn salad with red peppers tossed in white balsamic vinaigrette is also deserving of a shout out. It was a nice, light way to start the meal and highlighted the traditional fruits and vegetables of India. We also sampled the onion bhajia, thinly sliced sweet onions flash-fried in a spicy chickpea batter. It was less to our liking, slightly greasy and a bit bland, but the only misstep to an otherwise impeccable meal.

Our entrees were spectacular, too, including the crab Malabar, a traditional coastal Indian dish with colossal hunks of crab seasoned with a symphony of Indian spices, and a vegetable-centric, but surprisingly hearty, jalfreezi with cauliflower, broccoli, peas, sugar snap peas, and potatoes. The smoky reshmi kebab—moist breasts of free-range chicken marinated in yogurt, lime juice, and pistachios, and cooked in the tandoor oven—was the first dish to disappear. (In fact, we liked it so much, we immediately placed a second order to go.) Another greatest hit was the grilled shrimp adrak. A mint, mango, and avocado chutney added texture and brightness and was served on the side. Desserts (consider the creamy house-made rice pudding or the peach-strawberry crumble, if it’s on the menu) were equally exemplary.

As has always been our experience at the Ambassador, the service was unerring. Our waiter, an 18-year Ambassador veteran, was both knowledgeable and passionate about the place. “I wait for the sun to come up so I can get here,” he offered when asked about his new gig. We share his sentiments completely.

Anyone interested in a ’40s fixer-upper in Baltimore County?

In America, the garage is a place where anything goes and ingenuity and experimentation can flourish freely. (To wit: A young Steve Jobs tinkering in his parents’ Silicon Valley shed.) In Hampden, Le Garage Beer Bar & Frites (actually, more of a subterranean space than a garage) is where French food has been retooled for the 21st century. With its novel take on a cuisine often associated with pricey pâtés, complicated sauces, and intimidating plates, Le Garage (on the site of the former The Dogwood restaurant) is the perfect fit for working-class Hampden, billing itself as featuring “approachable” French fare in an understated industrial setting.

When we stopped by Le Garage on a Saturday night, six weeks or so after it opened its doors in May, our intention was to throw back a few pints of beer or a Family Mule cocktail, order a few bar snacks (the chicken-fried country pâté had our full attention), and come back with the more serious purpose of crafting critical commentary at a later date. (We’ll let you in on our trade secret: Most times, our policy is to give a restaurant several months to establish itself before writing a review.)

But as the food came out of the kitchen, we realized that this place had the potential to be great right out of the gate, so we settled into our quintessential French garden cafe chairs and, steno pad and pen in hand, took notes.

Even if you think you don’t like French food, this menu, with open-faced tartines (sandwiches), an onion soup made with braised short-rib stock, and more substantial entrees such as a grilled sausage bourguignon with fingerling potatoes or an indulgent Roseda Black Angus Farm burger with foie gras butter, will have you eagerly crossing culinary borders in no time.

Le Garage’s executive chef Sarah Acconcia, on The Avenue again after leaving 13.5% Wine Bar for Maggie’s Farm in Lauraville, puts a spin on blue-white-and-red flag favorites. We started with a small but satisfying plate of boucheron, an intensely tangy wedge of the classic goat cheese, served with a compote of raisins and cranberries, and toasted brioche rounds. At $6, the cheese, which can also be ordered as a dessert course, was unfussy, differentiating Le Garage from many other French spots where ordering the cheese plate can feel like an overwrought ordeal.

While there are some solid staples, the changing menu also features seasonal fare. On our visit, it was a creamy, chilled asparagus soup, a combination of chives and crème frâiche highlighting the flavors of the fresh Eastern Shore asparagus. Less to our liking was a tartine advertised as containing bacon, tomato jam, and egg on a brioche. Instead, we received a thick slice of buttery brioche featuring a fatty hunk of braised bacon beneath a fried egg. We were expecting the same crisp bacon featured on the burgers passing by, so we weren’t prepared for the pork-belly-style cut of meat, which we found overwhelmingly fatty and too rich as an appetizer.

Our main courses were more successful, including a salad niçoise. We liked that some of the salad components were classic, such as niçoise olives and fingerling potatoes, while other elements—like the chunks of sushi-grade tuna, snap peas (a stand-in for haricots verts), and ramp dressing—offered a fresh take on tradition. The pan-seared soft-shell crab special served on house brioche with green goddess and ramp kimchi and a fried-green tomato was fantastically fresh, and the brioche “bed” was an original addition. (We also experienced ordering envy as we watched the steak salad with arugula, watermelon, and blue cheese go by and made a mental note to get that next time.) Of course, we had to try the namesake fries, paying 75 cents extra to sample an additional sauce. Our favorite was the gochujang aioli with its kicky chile paste marrying well with the blander spud sticks.

Several weeks later, a weeknight visit was equally pleasant as we settled into sharing a pot of P.E.I. mussels swimming in a white wine and buttery broth confidently flavored with chorizo sausage and fennel, plus fries on the side. Also arriving at the table, was a hearty stroganoff-style homemade pasta, offering an earthy blend of crème frâiche, exotic mushrooms (oyster, royal trumpet), some shallots, garlic, white wine, pieces of pecan, and serious shavings of grana Padano. The dish was a great choice for the avowed vegetarian at our table.

On both visits, desserts prepared by Rachel Theisen, a former Woodberry Kitchen cook, were a menu highlight. The s’mores profiteroles with gooey marshmallow and rich chocolate sauce were dense and delicious, while the croissant bread pudding with Taharka Bros. cinnamon ice cream, served in a cast-iron skillet, stole the show. Le Garage is the perfect fit for its Hampden ’hood—a culinary Silicon Valley of sorts where we fully expect to see more great discoveries coming out of the kitchen.

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LE GARAGE BEER BAR & FRITES 911 W. 36 th St. 410-243-6300.
HOURS Sun.-Thurs. 5 p.m.-12 a.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5 p.m.-1 a.m.; closed Mondays.
CUISINE Modern French bistro
PRICE Snacks and appetizers: $3-12; entrees: $17-24; desserts: $3-8.
ATMOSPHERE Cozy, cloistered industrial bistro, with a stunning bar area.

Broadbent Vinho Verde NV
$12, The Winebow Group

Vinho Verde is that crisp, lightly effervescent white wine of Portugal, known for its faint greenish hue. It’s crafted from indigenous grape varieties, and Broadbent shipped this one in refrigerated containers to preserve its electric freshness. Hints of green apricot, melon, and fresh English peas here, along with a crisp mineral note and a fresh, spritzy finish. Chill one down and then chill out.

Lieu Dit Chenin Blanc 2012
$30, Prestige Beverage Group

It’s rare when a California white wine offers the character and dryness that the same grape displays in Europe. And yet, in the Lieu Dit Chenin Blanc, we’ve found a white wine with so much character, it deserves recognition. Made from vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley, this wine is redolent with the lacy minerals and stone fruits that make Chenin Blanc so famous in places such as Savennières. 

Domaine Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet 2012
$12, Vignobles LVDH

If Vinho Verde is Portugal’s summer white wine of choice, then for Mediterranean French it is surely Picpoul de Pinet. Made from the Picpoul grape grown on coastal vineyards, this Languedoc gem delights the palate with light peach, citrus, and minerals, along with a faint hint of fresh seaside salinity. Delicious on its own, it also pairs well with chilled shrimp or fried chicken.

Jockey Victor Espinoza wore shiny purple silks as he crossed the finish line aboard California Chrome at the Preakness. Across town, patrons catching the race at one of Canton’s newest bars wore big, saucy smiles. Most hadn’t even won bets, but a Saturday spent at Silks, a stylish pub whose name pays homage to jockeys’ garb and whose menu features a blend of craft and down-home beer, delicious cocktails, and tasty food, is always a winning ticket. For years, the bar on the corner of Hudson Street and South Lakewood Avenue with the tacky sporting-goods mural outside was an enigma. It never seemed open. Was it a speakeasy? A private club? A dive with unusual hours? Who knows? And now, who cares? When new owners renovated, they rid it of practically everything but the name. A lacquered, dark wood bar, staffed by talented and jovial bartenders, runs practically the length of the building. With open windows allowing in plenty of sunlight and a cool breeze on a nice day, it’s one of the most outdoor-like indoor places to drink in the neighborhood.

There’s also a small dining room, but make no mistake, Silks is more bar than restaurant. Which is not to say that its kitchen doesn’t turn out classic tavern fare that’s a cut above. Start with an order of wings (10 for $9.99), prepared confit-style for an interesting twist. You’ll find burgers (the Juicy Lucy, with the cheese on the inside, is $10.19), cheesesteaks ($9.80), and chicken sandwiches (topped with crab dip and cheddar for $10.50), along with entrees like fish and chips ($11.99), Cajun salmon cakes ($11.99), and even a prime rib. While it’s not quite Capital Grille-quality, the steak, served with a vegetable and garlic mashed potatoes, is a bargain at $19.99.

Whatever you order, it’s wise to grab a side of fries. Sidewinders, as they’re called, are a delicious hybrid steak and curly fry, doused with salt and served piping hot. They’re plump and flavorful, and a plate of them makes a perfect side or snack. The cocktail menu features an array of sublime libations. The blueberry margarita, made with Avion Silver tequila, fresh-squeezed lime juice, muddled blueberries, triple sec, and agave nectar, is one of the most refreshing drinks—in one of the most refreshing new/old bars—in the city.

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›› Silks, 2641 Hudson Street, 443-708-0317. Hours: 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Fri., 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Sat.-Sun. Appetizers: $6.80-10.50; sandwiches: $6.80-11.49; entrees: $11.99-19.99.

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Mike Unger is a senior contributing writer for Baltimore.