The Bolton Hill district continues to remake itself into an inviting cloister for residents and visitors alike. Narrower driving lanes, well-marked crosswalks, new curbs, and a dedicated bike lane have tamed Mt. Royal Avenue’s traffic, rendering it less of a speedway and more of a promenade. The tendrils of new openings probe this revitalized block, and Noona’s is the latest arrival.

Owner Phil Han’s credits include the Asian-inflected Dooby’s on North Charles and laid-back cocktail bar Sugarvale, as well as Fat Tiger and Old Boy’s in the newly renovated Broadway Market. Noona’s brings an Italian-inspired menu to students and longtime Bolton Hill residents alike, without white-tablecloth prices. On our visit, we were welcomed by an airy space with a minimalist aesthetic accented with cool metals, warm woods, and restrained dashes of color.

From bar stools to high tops to banquettes to outdoor tables, we had our pick of seating options. We took our seats inside and checked out the menu while sipping inventive cocktails, then began our meal with two small plates. We were delighted by fava beans in the farro salad, accompanied by roasted turnips, earthy sorrel, and bright pickled ramps. We also enjoyed the roasted broccoli’s interplay between zesty lemon accents and piquant tellicherry peppers.

As we polished off these delicious starters, we were enticed by the pizzas passing by, ultimately indulging in The Bambino. A toothsome and satisfying sourdough crust provided the foundation for a succulent dance of flavors—juicy fennel sausage, red onion, creamy ricotta, and spicy honey. We loved this spirited combination and were tempted to polish off the whole pie right there, but other plates beckoned to us, starting with the soft crab special.

This was offered as a sandwich or on its own, and we opted for the naked crab. Our crustacean arrived lightly battered and fried and accompanied by tartar sauce. The combination was beautiful in its simplicity and left us wanting another. Instead, we went with the roasted pork belly.

Here, chef Cai Lindeman (formerly of the Michelin-rated The Dabney in Washington, D.C.) revealed his understated creativity and sense of humor. Richly fatty pork belly arrived on a bed of charred cucumber, pickled mustard seeds, grilled onions, and radicchio. A dash of vinegar bound all these flavors together in a playful interpretation of a frankfurter accompanied with pickles, relish, and mustard. We wrapped our meal up with a sinful slab of lemon pound cake garnished with basil-infused blackberry compote.

Noona’s offers the wholesome yet uncomplicated casual dining that Baltimore needs—unfussy presentations, bright flavors, reasonable prices, and the deft hand of a good chef to bring them together. We’d like to see a bit more Italian-inspired focus on the wine list to support the flavors coming from the kitchen, but that’s a minor quibble for a restaurant with no fine-dining aspirations.

NOONA’S 1203 W. Mt. Royal Ave. 410-424-0857. HOURS: Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-9 p.m.; Tues.-Wed. 5-9 p.m.; Thurs.-Fri. 5-10 p.m.; Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-9 p.m. PRICES: Small plates: $7-10; pizza and entrees: $11-15; desserts: $3.50-8. AMBIANCE: Trendy casual.

In only a few short months, construction crews have managed to transform the north shed of Broadway Market in Fells Point from a property full of rubble to a bonafide dining destination housing nine local food concepts.

“People like seeing Baltimore City do something meaningful with market spaces,” says Phil Han, the owner of a Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon who is opening two stalls inside the market. “They did a really good job, too. It’s not like they were Band-Aiding or patching up little things. They really found the funding to do something large here, and in a really fast time frame.”

Thanks to Baltimore Public Markets and a team including Development Solutions and PI.KL Studio, the 233-year-old community hub—the city’s oldest existing public market—now boasts a black-and-white aesthetic, more than 100 seats, and a huge outdoor patio in the middle of the square. As stalls begin to open for business (three are expected to be up and running by next week), here are a few things to note.

Vikki’s Fells Point Deli reopens today.

Leading the wave of food concepts making their debut inside the space is veteran vendor Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, a Broadway Market staple since 1983. The beloved breakfast- and-lunch spot officially reopened Tuesday morning at 7 a.m., serving a limited soft-opening menu of its classic diner fare.

“I went from 760 square feet to 320,” owner Vikki Powers said while organizing her stall on Monday afternoon. “So this is going to be an adjustment. We’re probably not going to have the full menu up and running until next week, but we’re trying to get the most important things nailed down.”

One of the most important components of Vikki’s signature sandwiches and breakfast platters is bacon. As the smell of the frying strips permeated throughout the space, Powers broke down the numbers: “We go through about 30 pounds per day,” she said. “So we’ll prep 15 today and do 15 tomorrow.”

The vendor lineup is meant to be a mix of old and new.

Neighborhood regulars will recognize other returning vendors such as Sophia’s Place European Deli, expected to start offering soups and sandwiches by Friday, and Sal’s Seafood, which is slated to serve its first ceviche by early next week.

The veteran stalls are stationed toward the Aliceanna Street entrance, while the new spots are situated on the opposite side of the building. Among them are farmers’ market favorite Thai Street, Hampden-based Indian restaurant The Verandah, Lexington Market mainstay Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, social justice-driven creamery Taharka Bros., and Old Boy—Han’s authentic Korean concept whose kitchen will be headed up by Irvin Seo of the Haenyo pop-up. All of the new concepts are hoping to debut next month.

“It kind of feels like Grand Central Market in Los Angeles,” Han says. “You have the old-school vendors, and then you have some of the new guys coming in and adding this nice balance in the space.”

The all-day bar program will be called Fat Tiger.

Beneath a gleaming skylight in the center of the market is Fat Tiger, Han’s all-day bar concept that sits directly across from Old Boy so that the two can share a kitchen.

“I wanted to incorporate a tiger in some capacity,” Han says of the name. “It was the ’88 summer olympic mascot for Korea, and the tiger is also my Chinese Year sign. We just wanted it to be playful—the idea of a fat tiger isn’t so serious.”

The centerpiece bar will open at 8 a.m. daily, offering cappuccinos, lattes, a New American-inspired weekend brunch menu, and pastries supplied by the Dooby’s team. (Han says that Sundays, his short-lived doughnut pop-up at Cross Street Market, could make a return at Fat Tiger.) There will also be a full menu of beer, wine, and cocktails served all day.

“Fells Point already has a very rich and dynamic bar community,” Han says. “So this is supposed to be more of an amenity bar. If you want that mimosa or Bloody Mary, or if you want to extend your evening and have a nicer cocktail, you can do that with us.”

As temperatures warm up this summer, Han is looking forward to launching a El Tigre—a tiki-inspired play on the Fat Tiger concept that will expand bar service outside to the market’s patio. Though the plan is still in flux, he is toying with the idea of using a shipping container as a homebase for the outdoor bar.

The outdoor patio will be pet-friendly.

Yet another perk of the outdoor space is that it will welcome leashed pets: “We want the residents around Upper Fells, Fells Point, and Patterson Park to make this a destination when they’re out walking,” says Stacey Pack, project manager for Baltimore Public Markets. “We’re also near so many hotels that are pet-friendly, so when folks travel, it’s nice to have the ability to take your animal for a walk and stop to get some coffee and food.”

Aside from water bowls for dogs, the patio will also feature a wooden awning with strung lights, nearly 60 bistro chairs, and six massive communal tables crafted by Station North makerspace Open Works.

The building’s original architecture was preserved in the design.

A hyper-local design team including Sandtown Millworks, Plano-Coudon Construction, Gruver Studios, Goodwood Design, and PI.KL Studio helped to execute the final product, which enhances structural features while adding more modern white tile, black furniture, and hanging lights.

The building’s original interior archways have been preserved, and the arches above the floor-to-ceiling windows—which were previously filled in throughout the ’70s and ’80s—have been restored to their former glory.

With roots dating back to the early 1900s, the building had been vacant for a nearly a decade before construction began last year: “To be able to breathe life into the space and activate it fully is really nice,” Pack says, “especially after it had been sitting vacant for so long.”

The previous Broadway Market vendors operated inside the market’s south shed, which is now being transformed into The Choptank restaurant from Atlas Restaurant Group. Han feels that all of the development adds to the overall vibrancy of the neighborhood.

“I think everyone’s excited,” he says. “Fells Point has historically done well as being this charming neighborhood by the water, so the more it can do to bring people to this area is a huge plus.”

We’ve always loved the idea of descending stairs to enter bars—especially in the winter. There’s something cozy and, yes, a little bit clandestine about these buried treasures.

And once you enter the doors of Sugarvale (4 W. Madison St., 410-609-3162), the city’s grit and grime become a distant memory. The truly beautiful candlelit space with polygon-patterned tile floors features a pleasant post-punk soundtrack and rotating ceiling décor that will keep you staring skyward at flowers in the springtime and snowflakes in the colder months.

But look down and you’ll notice that the creativity carries over to the menu, as well. This comes as no surprise once you discover renaissance man Phil Han—of Dooby’s, Sundays, and Noona’s fame—owns this bar, too. (In fact, he named it after the street he grew up on.) Back when it opened in 2015, cocktail bars like this, featuring local spirits and craft beers as much as possible, still felt like pioneers in the city.

The cocktail menu changes often, and we love the way in which it’s always cleverly divided into “shaken” and “stirred” options. On our visit, this was especially apropos, since the bar was playing a Goldfinger VHS on a tiny TV in the corner. We decided on the Beauvoir, a well-balanced and hearty mix of bourbon, madeira, amaro, and pineapple-cinnamon cane syrup. Most of the dozen or so drinks on the menu contain house-made tinctures and syrups, which lend a culinary feel to the menu.

If it’s real food you’re after, there’s a menu of small bites that includes many varieties of Dooby’s-style signature buns, such as the popular Korean fried chicken (KFC for short) with daikon, purple cabbage, and sweet pickles.

And while Sugarvale is a fun place to experiment and try new things, we also appreciate the old standbys such as the simple negroni, gimlet, or Manhattan—which are all on special during the bar’s generous happy hour (Monday-Saturday, 5-7 p.m. and a dangerous Sunday 3 p.m.-close).

Whatever drink you order, whichever VHS tape is playing that night, or however the ceiling is decorated that season, it’s hard to have a bad night at the bottom of the Sugarvale stairs.

When it comes to naming his restaurants, Phil Han tends to get personal. Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon is a nod to his nickname as a young boy. Cocktail bar Sugarvale is a reference to the street that he grew up on. And forthcoming Broadway Market stall Old Boy pays homage to the classic Korean dishes Han now has a deeper appreciation for as an adult. His newest spot Noona’s—meaning sister in Korean—is a dedication to his older sister, Christina.

“In really thinking about what to call this place, I thought back to how the name fits within the grander scheme of what we do,” Han says. “‘Noona’ is a term of respect, specifically from a younger guy to his older sister.”

To further the dedication to his only sibling, Han worked alongside Christina on design and menu details for the Midtown-Belvedere restaurant. Even the logo for the new shop mimics his sister’s natural handwriting.

But beyond just their names, the restaurant concepts also serve as a way to give diners a glimpse at Han’s upbringing: “Like every other kid, almost every birthday party that I went to growing up was always surrounded by pizza as this central food,” he says.

Noona’s—which opens today in the former home of Two Boots Pizza in the Fitzgerald Apartment Building—features a menu of signature sourdough-crust pies topped with ingredients like pancetta and shallots, potatoes and leeks, and classic pepperoni and mozzarella. The offerings will also include larger entrees like braised lamb with mint farro or roasted pork loin with broccoli rabe.

“The menu certainly has a big pizza element to it, but we also just wanted it to be a good neighborhood restaurant,” Han says. “That was so key to where we wanted it to go. We thought about how it doesn’t have to be just a pizza place with a few traditional pizzas and garlic knots. It can be something more than that.”

Though there are some tie-ins to the Korean-fusion flavors at Dooby’s, including a kimchi pork belly pie and similar coffee and pastry program, Han says he wanted Noona’s to have its own identity.

The 55-seat space is a bit more modern, with mirrors by Artstar Baltimore, custom furniture by Goodwood Design, hanging ball light fixtures, a mix of individual and communal tables, and an L-shaped bar—which will be staffed by some familiar faces from his other businesses.

“The bar program is going to be very much driven by the Sugarvale team,” Han explains. “However, it’s going to be a touch more approachable. Sugarvale draws a lot more of the cocktail fanatic crowd, whereas this is more about how the drinks pair well with the food.”

Aside from six local brews on tap, the bar will also offer beers, prosecco cocktails, and a rotating list of signature drinks. Among them are a house Negroni and the “Della Tristezza,” which fuses rum, Strega liqueur, lime, grapefruit, pineapple, cane sugar, and molasses bitters.

An outdoor seating area with views of Mount Royal Station is also in the works for the warmer months. Han hopes that Noona’s becomes a go-to for locals commuting from Penn Station, as well as MICA and University of Baltimore students strolling around the area.

“It’s definitely a new neighborhood for us, but the way I think about it, it still feels like home field advantage,” Han says, mentioning that many Midtown residents are regulars at Dooby’s. “This definitely feels like familiar territory, and it feels great to be able to continue those relationships.”

COMING SOON

Broadway Market: Earlier this week, Mayor Catherine Pugh announced six stalls that will be setting up shop inside the renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point this winter. Slated to debut in February, the north shed of the redesigned public market will house local icon Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, farmers’ market favorite Thai Street, social justice-driven ice cream purveyor Taharka Bros., Hampden-based Indian eatery The Verandah, and Old Boy—an authentic Korean concept from Phil Han of Dooby’s. Han will also operate the market’s centerpiece bar, which will feature an elevated coffee program and brunch menu during the day, and draft beer and cocktails in the evening.

Returning to the revamped space will be longtime vendors Sal’s Seafood, Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, and Sophia’s Place, the European cafe and bakery that first opened in the market in 1986. There is still one stall that has yet to be leased. Once the north shed reopens, construction will begin on the south shed, which will house collaborative seafood spot The Choptank from Atlas Restaurant Group and Captain James Landing. 1640 Aliceanna St.

Lyfe Cafe: Be on the lookout for this new dining destination at The Shops at Kenilworth while checking out the mall’s beloved holiday train garden this season. Expected to open in early 2019 (just in time to get started on those New Year’s resolutions), the healthful spot from local owner Penny Seabolt will feature an all-day menu prepared with ingredients that promote physical and mental wellness (think protein pancakes and waffles, a kale detox salad with lemon-tahini dressing, smoothie bowls, and wellness shots). The eatery is designed to accommodate every major diet—including low-calorie, gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan, and vegetarian—and will also offer meal prep services. The 1,788-square-foot cafe will be located next to Wilkes & Riley on the ground level of the recently-renovated Towson shopping plaza. 800 Kenilworth Drive, Towson

OPEN

The Common Kitchen: The food hall trend—which has taken off in Baltimore with spots like R. House, Mount Vernon Marketplace, and the upcoming Whitehall Mill—has now spread to Clarksville with this new communal space that will house 11 artisan makers. A grand opening celebration is scheduled for this Saturday, November 10, where local schools will perform live music and vendors like Scoop & Paddle ice cream and Indian street food shop Namaste Foodie will offer opening day specials. Located near Food Plenty inside the environmentally sustainable Clarksville Commons, the gathering space will mark the first food hall in all of Howard County. Other stalls to look out for include Egyptian eatery Koshary by Misteka, bubble tea purveyor Royaltea, barbecue joint Smokin’ on the Bayou, and Trifecto—a coffee and juice bar specializing in Ceremony Coffee drinks and colorful acai bowls. 12240 Clarksville Pike, Clarksville. 301-854-2090

Pat’s Select Pizza and Asian Garden: These new BYOB restaurants are opening next door to one another at the Crestridge Center in Cockeysville this month. The eateries are expected to be popular lunch destinations in the development, which features two office buildings and one retail property. Pat’s, a fast-casual pizza chain that is now open, features its signature brick-oven pies alongside flatbreads, burgers, salads, and a lengthy list of pasta dishes. Slated to debut next week, Asian Garden will highlight Chinese, Japanese, and Thai staples ranging from sushi to bowls of lo mein and pad thai. 10151-10155 York Road, Cockeysville

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/12: Sweat: Our World, Your Stage
Everyman Theatre is known for bridging the gap between the food and theater world. The downtown showhouse is continuing that creativity with a Veteran’s Day event at Checkerspot Brewing that ties into the themes of Everyman’s current production, Sweat—a slice-of-life drama about steel mill workers facing a plant shutdown who routinely gather at their neighborhood bar. Make your way to the South Baltimore brewery to sip craft beers while watching scenes from the play, and listening in on a conversation comparing the themes in the script to the current hardships facing our own neighbors. Ten percent of all ticket proceeds will benefit South Baltimore-based nonprofit The Baltimore Station, which works to support homeless veterans and reintegrate them into the workforce. 1399 S. Sharp St. 6-8:30 p.m. $15

11/16: Intercostal Breakdown
Fittingly named after the anatomical term that means “situated between the ribs,” this one-night-only barbecue pop-up, hosted by food writer Amy Langrehr of Charm City Cook, will feature smoked ribs cooked on custom-built cages and grills. Head to Monument City Brewing in Highlandtown to sample meats prepared by chef Patrick Morrow of South Point and chef Damian Mosley of Blacksauce Kitchen. The evening will also feature $5 Monument City beers all night, and Annapolis-based folk rockers Ampersand Stringband playing live from 7:30-9:30 p.m. 1 N. Haven St. Free. 5-10 p.m.

Since opening his Korean-inspired cafe Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon in 2014, Phil Han has witnessed the city’s food scene expand with globally diverse concepts that take diners everywhere from the islands of Thailand to the mountains of Senegal.

“When Dooby’s opened, we played a very fine balancing act of introducing some Korean ingredients, but at the same time making a menu that was a little more approachable for the broader audience,” says Han, who also owns cocktail bar Sugarvale and forthcoming pizza spot Noona’s. “Where we are food-wise as a city has certainly progressed and caught its bearings since then.”

Han made it a priority to reflect that evolution when he was asked to assist with the vendor selection process for the newly renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point. It was announced today that the revamped north shed of the 232-year-old property—between Fleet and Aliceanna streets—will house 10 stalls, both old and new, when it reopens in early 2019.

Aside from new locations for Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, Taharka Bros. Ice Cream, Thai Street, and The Verandah, veteran vendors Sal’s Seafood, Sophia’s Place, and Vikki’s Fells Point Deli will make up the market. Han himself also plans to introduce two new concepts, an all-day centerpiece bar and an authentic Korean eatery called Old Boy.

The Dooby’s spinoff will feature bar seating that allows diners to engage with their servers and learn more about the authentic dishes that Han grew up with. He mentions homestyle options like tonkatsu, a deep-fried pork cutlet, and dakbokkeumtang, spicy chicken braised with vegetables and spices.

“You’ll certainly see modern interpretations throughout the menu,” he says. “But it’s still built so that if my parents were to come in with their friends they would very much feel at home with the dishes that were presented.”

While partially inspired by a classic Korean action film, Old Boy’s name also pays homage to the idea that, as Han has grown older, has has developed a deeper appreciation for the classic dishes that he grew up eating with his family.

“I used to be that kid who would bring a Happy Meal into Korean restaurants,” he recalls. “Now I realize that the food my mom cooked when I was younger is the food that I’m craving more often. This is what I want to eat, and it’s a return of a deeper appreciation and representation of where I came from.”

Not far from Old Boy’s stall will be Han’s yet-to-be-named bar, which will offer an array of cappuccinos and lattes in the morning, as well as house made pastries and its own New American-style brunch menu. Situated under a gleaming skylight, the bar will also serve a menu of beer, wine, and cocktails during the evening hours.

Though they’re only a few hundred square feet, the goal is for both concepts to have distinct and inviting styles—which will be executed by a hyper-local design team that includes PI.KL Studio, Goodwood Design, and Sandtown Millworks.

“With Old Boy, you’ll see a little bit of homage to that old-school Korean look, which generally lends itself to a lot of natural wood tones,” Han says. “We just really want to create this warm space where it feels inviting to come over and sit down.”

The redesigned north shed, which has sat vacant for more than a decade, is expected to debut in February. Following in the summer of 2019 will be the premiere of The Choptank, a collaborative seafood concept from Atlas Restaurant Group and Captain James Landing, which will open in the neighboring south shed.

Aside from reactivating the Fells Point space, Han is enthusiastic about what a concept like this means for the future of the Baltimore food scene.

“I think sometimes people get a little bit too fixated on what’s closing,” he says. “But there’s definitely some positivity and growth happening in Baltimore. It’s an exciting time to see some of these younger food guys getting a shot at a bigger game.”

Last year, Stephanie Hsu was assisting the Ekiben team with a pop-up at R. House in Remington when they realized that they needed bubble tea to test in their recipes. Normally, Hsu would make the trip to her favorite Asian market in the county to buy the ingredient, but she was short on time.

She remembered hearing about Po Tung, an ethnic grocery store on the 300 block of Park Avenue downtown, which is situated in the heart of Baltimore’s historic Chinatown.

“That was the first time I had ever been on Park Avenue,” remembers Hsu, the former marketing and events director for R. House. “When I was walking up and down the street, I had this realization of generations that had been there before. There is a history there that is not widely shared and not widely known.”

Feeling inspired, Hsu dug deep into the archives of the Enoch Pratt Free Library and the Maryland Historical Society to learn more about the history of Asian-American immigrants in Baltimore. After months of research, she and other local descendants have formed The Chinatown Collective—a group that works to celebrate the contributions of Asian-Americans and their deep-rooted heritage in the city.

“We want to acknowledge the stories of the immigrants and their families that have come before us,” Hsu says. “But at the same time, it’s about the entire community coming together and saying, ‘This is who we are now.’”

That mission is exactly what the collective is hoping to highlight with the first-ever Charm City Night Market on September 22 from 4-11 p.m. The outdoor block party will extend from the green space at 200 Park Avenue down to Lexington Market—a footprint which overlaps with what was once a bustling hub for Asian-American arts, food, and commerce from the late 1800s to the 1940s.

Coinciding with Asia’s traditional Lunar Mid-Autumn Festival, the free event will feature an illuminated lantern walk along Lexington Street where visitors can peruse visual art, crafts, and jewelry from the likes of Priya Means Love and Filipino-American sister duo Timpla.

Attendees can expect to sample eats from local Asian-fusion vendors including Ekiben, Thai Street, Mera Kitchen Collective, and Mochichi—a new Korean shaved ice concept from Steve Cho who owns Sausage Master inside Lexington Market.

The drink offerings, helmed by Phil Han of Dooby’s and Sugarvale, will spotlight beer and spirits such as sake and soju.

“We want to showcase how Asian ingredients can be incorporated into a drink that’s fun and easy to enjoy,” Han says. “Some of the sakes can add this nice, subtle creaminess to a drink that you might not expect.”

From a food standpoint, Han says that the event is in line with the increased awareness of Asian cuisine in Baltimore.

“Five years ago, the word ‘Korean’ being on a menu was so sparse,” he says. “Now we’re seeing more dishes with Chinese, Korean, and Thai ingredients appearing on New American menus across town. That kind of exposure makes it more encouraging for Asian restaurants to keep growing.”

The festival will also feature live performances from Korean drumming troupe Samulnori and the Baltimore Dance Crews Project, which was founded by two Filipino-American hip-hop dancers who work with local students to choreograph pieces inspired by their feelings on social justice issues.

Hsu credits the inspiration for the event to Kitty Chin, a 90-year-old Asian-American immigrant who vividly remembers the once-bustling Chinatown. After the community eventually faded away, Chin and her late-husband, Calvin, hoped to revive the district to be inclusive of all of the different Asian cultures that had converged in Baltimore by the late ’70s.

“They wanted to bring people back to that area,” Hsu says. “Not as a Chinatown specifically, but as a pan-Asian hub that would then incorporate a lot of the other Asian immigrant communities that were moving into the city at that time. Now we’re taking their vision and expanding on it to reflect what the city looks like now.”

Aside from raising awareness about the venue and its origins, Hsu says that she hopes Asian-Americans of all ages come to the event and feel connected to the rich immigrant culture in the city.

“We hope it expands on the idea that Asian food isn’t just Chinese food,” she says. “There are a lot of different cuisines and nuances, and maybe people will find a new favorite. At the end of the day, I think we’ll be pretty happy if people have a good conversation with someone about their own culture or experience a different culture in a deeper way.”