For more than 20 years, city dwellers have gotten to know the The Brewer’s Art as a dimly lit, dichotomous destination for pairing house-brewed drafts of Resurrection and Beazly in both its posh upstairs setting and its cavernous basement below.

Come spring, a second location in Howard County will offer a middle ground between the two in the form of a rustic tavern in Highland.

“It isn’t super modern out here in Western Howard County,” says Ryan Roth, a Highland resident who owns The Brewer’s Art building in Mt. Vernon. “It’s a little more traditional, so we’re definitely going to keep it casual.”

Aptly named The Brewer’s Art Tavern, the 85-seat sister spot will add some casual charm to the former home of the Twist and Turn Tavern, then Highland Tavern, off of Clarksville Pike. Roth—who estimates that he lives about 200 feet from the new restaurant—took over the lease last fall, and approached his Brewer’s Art tenants about teaming up to open a second location in the space soon after.

“I was always a big fan of theirs,” he says. “And I figured, ‘Hey, these guys probably know a lot about running a restaurant.’ They’re a cautious group. They’ve been doing the same thing for a long time, and it’s worked for them, but I think they saw the advantages and were excited about it pretty quickly.”

Brewer’s Art co-owner Volker Stewart explains that the team was uncertain of the Mt. Vernon restaurant’s fate when the building was up for sale a few years back. But after Roth became the new landlord in 2017 and later presented his expansion plans, it seemed like the right time to widen the footprint.

“It was kind of a serendipitous thing,” Stewart says. “Ryan was a fan of The Brewer’s Art, which all of the partners thought was pretty great. He reached out to us about reopening his local bar with a new concept, and after a number of conversations, we thought it would be a great fit.”

Roth expects that 50 percent of the menu in Mt. Vernon will carry over to the new tavern, which will dedicate six of its 14 taps to Brewer’s Art beers. Executive chef Andrew Weinzirl will oversee both kitchens, bringing approachable staples like the rosemary-garlic fries, poutine with pickled chilis, and soft pretzels with Resurrection mustard to the new space.

Aside from the local craft beer and cider, the beverage offerings will include a selection of house cocktails and a 180-bottle wine list that Roth is curating with the help of the staff at Highland Wine & Spirits next door. “We want to offer some nice bottles that people can just walk over and buy for themselves after dinner if they’re so inclined,” he says.

Though most of the building was equipped with proper plumbing and electrical systems, construction crews have been hard at work restaining woods, bringing in new furniture, and adding fresh coats of paint in advance of the early-April opening. The goal is to tone down the horse country feel of the previous inhabitant to make way for a more inviting, warm interior. The spot also features a 20-seat outdoor patio that Roth plans to convert into a beer garden.

As the Howard County dining scene continues to grow with new concepts like The Turn House, Manor Hill Tavern, and Cured 18th & 21st, Roth is looking forward to adding yet another dining destination to the area. For his part, after two decades, Stewart feels the timing is finally right for the expansion of Brewer’s Art.

“Ryan is committed to creating a space that offers the same high-quality product and experience that we offer here,” Stewart says. “We are excited to have a sister restaurant.”

Move over, Ravens and Orioles, a new bird is taking Baltimore by storm: the chicken. Although chicken might not be a beloved Birdland mascot, it’s certainly a rising star on menus throughout the city. For years, culinary gurus such as Anthony Bourdain have rolled their eyes at the original white meat, labeling it tasteless and forgettable, but Charm City chefs have recently taken advantage of chicken’s endless versatility to create memorable dishes.

“The way chefs look at chicken has changed quite a bit, and it’s much more sophisticated today,” says Linwood Dame, co-owner and chef of Linwoods. “There are so many different ways to work with chicken, but it’s difficult to get right, so you’ve got to do it well.”

If there’s one place chicken is consistently cooked to perfection, it’s France, where the bird has been a cornerstone in the kitchen for generations. Luckily for all of us across the Atlantic, French transplants such as Steve Monnier, the executive chef at Chez Hugo, offer to-die-for chicken dishes.

One of Chez Hugo’s most popular plates is the poulet roti au foin pour deux, or the whole roasted chicken for two.
For Monnier and his team, serving such a dish is a painstaking, six-day process that includes carefully selecting chickens from local farms, marinating the meat for hours, slow-roasting the bird on a bed of hay to give the dish a true farm-to-table feel, and cooking different cuts in the oven to make sure every bite is tender and flavorful before reconstructing the pieces to compose a whole bird.

“It seems simple, but you have to make sure the meat is juicy and the skin is crispy,” says Monnier. “This takes a lot of technique.” It’s a far cry from the overlooked poultry of the past, and restaurants throughout Baltimore are offering more and more chicken dishes that soar miles above expectations.

Roasted Half Chicken

The Brewer’s Art
At this Mt. Vernon restaurant, a pan-roasted breast is accompanied by a confit leg and thigh. A watermelon salad, pistachios, and salsa verde provide counterpoints to the richness of the meat.

Poulet Grillé

Petit Louis Bistro
The whole roasted bird for two is a star at this Roland Park staple, but its lighter chicken fare—succulent grilled breast served over fingerling potatoes, with grilled red onions and zucchini and a drizzle of pistou sauce—is just as delicious.

AC’s Famous Fried Chicken

Rye Street Tavern
At this upscale Chesapeake-style spot, ordering the fried chicken—crispy, golden-brown, and packed with flavor—is a no-brainer. On the other hand, choosing between the Southern style, served with buttermilk biscuits and whiskey pickles, or the spicy Jerked version, plated with charred pineapple and Hawaiian rolls, is quite the challenge.

Korean Fried Chicken Breast

Jazz + Soju
In classic Korean technique, this chicken is twice-fried in soybean oil, leaving tender meat covered in a light, crispy shell. This Riverside kitchen’s signature dish melts in your mouth and is tossed with one of two sauces: soy garlic or spicy.

When Corey Polyoka started to configure the beach furniture, recycled shipping containers, and vintage 1968 Safari Airstream trailer at Sandlot last spring, he knew he had something special. But he didn’t anticipate just how much his urban island concept would catch on with locals.

On opening day last June, hundreds packed the 40,000-square-foot, open-air oasis to sip slushies, sample skewered snacks, and challenge friends to yard games while soaking up sunshine on the border of Fells Point and Harbor East.

“That first day was incredible,” says Polyoka, managing partner of Spike Gjerde’s Foodshed restaurant group, which operates Sandlot, as well as other restaurants like Woodberry Kitchen and Parts & Labor. “I’m an operator, so in my mind I quickly realized, ‘Wow I’m not sure if we were quite ready for that.’ But then seeing how people were enjoying it on social media and making their way down there a lot last summer was really amazing.”

Polyoka is hoping to keep that momentum going this year, as he and his team gear up for Sandlot’s second season opener on Saturday, May 5. This time around, the beachfront hangout is upping its game with additional seating and shaded areas, expanded food and drink offerings, weekly live music, athletic programming on the sand, and even more community events. 

“There’s more of everything at Sandlot this season,” Polyoka says. “I think toward the end of last year we really found our groove. We’re excited to start there and pick up where we left off.”

Beginning this weekend, the outdoor eatery and rec yard will be open from 4-11 p.m. on weekdays, and 11 a.m.-11 p.m. on weekends until late October. Here’s what to look out for as the season kicks into gear. 

Expanded Eats

Larger Focus on Seafood: In keeping with Foodshed’s sustainability mantra, the food program will serve more seafood this year. “We’re so close to the water and connected to the bay,” Polyoka says. “So it made sense to focus the menu around fish and shellfish coming out of the Chesapeake.” Though fan-favorite snacks like garlic and herb fries, soft pretzels, ice cream, and pulled pork sandwiches will remain, Polyoka is hoping to incorporate more fish into Sandlot’s skewers, burgers, and nachos this season. He is also looking forward to hosting more waterfront crab feasts as the summer goes on.

Karma Farm at Harbor Point Growing On-Site Produce: Last month, farmers from Monkton’s Karma Farm began installing two hoop houses and a hydroponic unit on the Harbor Point land surrounding Sandlot—making it even more convenient for the kitchen to source local ingredients. The farm will provide greens and fresh vegetables for the culinary team, while also hosting a weekend produce stand at Sandlot for visitors to purchase items like fresh herbs, cucumbers, peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes.

Beach Flag Service Model: Table service will have a fun twist this season. In order to streamline wait times, each outdoor table will have its own custom-made flag that diners can raise when they’re ready to order. The model was inspired by a trip that Polyoka took to Florida with his family last summer. “We were on the beach and our cabana had a flag next to it,” he recalls. “After raising it a few times it dawned upon me. I was like, ‘This would work great for us.’” 

Beach Beverages

Soak Up The Sun by The Brewer’s Art: Later this month, Sandlot will introduce its own exclusive beer in collaboration with The Brewer’s Art. The brew, fittingly dubbed Soak Up The Sun, is a light-bodied saison made with Choptank hops and lemon peel from The Brewer’s Art co-owner Tom Creegan’s lemon tree. Creegan says that it was “overwhelmingly fun” to partner on a brew for the waterfront spot. “We’re such a fall-winter place,” he says of his dimly lit brewpub in Mt. Vernon. “We love finding ways to have fun outside. And Sandlot is such a different thing for Baltimore. If you can’t make it to Ocean City for the weekend, you can do a little bit of that right here after work.” An official Soak Up The Sun release party will take place on Sunday, May 27.

Old Westminster Wine in a Can: When Drew Baker of Old Westminster Winery (OWW) first began toying with the idea of canning wine last year, Sandlot was one of the first spots that came to mind. He remembers running the idea by Polyoka, who was naturally enthusiastic about the prospect of offering 100-percent Maryland wine at the island hub. “That was one of the first major greenlights for us,” Baker says. “The Foodshed group has a tremendous support of local agriculture right down through their wine program, however Sandlot was always tough for them because they have a glass-free policy.” Old Westminster began canning wines last fall and is looking forward to offering its varieties at Sandlot for the first time this summer. (OWW is even hosting a “Can Jam” party at the beach on May 19th to celebrate.) The spring line—featuring a semi-sweet white and sparkling rosé—will be offered at Sandlot until June 19th, when OWW debuts its summer releases.

Bottled Kombucha Cocktails: Aside from additional satellite bars to minimize lines, the beverage program now boasts two new slushie machines with more flavors, and a signature bottled cocktail that combines local Counterpart Kombucha with vodka and fresh herbs. “They’re going to hit that vodka soda kind of ABV,” Polyoka says. “We think it’s going to be a nice addition especially for the warmer weather.” 

Seating and Shade

Beach Chairs: To accommodate the crowds, staffers have added more lounge seating and outdoor patio furniture on the beach. They’ve also invested in massive outdoor fans to help visitors stay cool during summer scorchers.

Summer Shade: Speaking of heat waves, the team is making it a priority to add more shaded sections this year. In addition to installing heavier cloth over the garden area near the decks, there will also be increased shade over the shipping containers for diners waiting in line for food and drinks.

New Covered Structure: Sandlot’s new building, which Polyoka describes as a “vintage metal carport,” will act as a permanent rain and shade structure. The building will be able to seat 40-50 guests and will also be available to be rented out for private parties. 

Upcoming Events

5/5: Opening Day Pig Roast and Monument City Pagoda  Release Party
Sandlot’s opening day bash will double as a release party for the new Pagoda Pale Ale from Monument City Brewing in Highlandtown. Plus, the team is roasting a full pig to celebrate. Snack on special pulled pork tacos and sandwiches while sampling beer and dancing to live music from Mike McHenry and DJ Kev. 

5/10: Baltimore Teachers Happy Hour
After the final bell rings, all teachers are invited to head over to Harbor Point to receive 15-percent off of their bar tabs during happy hour when they present their school ID’s. 

5/13: Mothers’ Day with B. Willow and Charm City Meadworks
Celebrate mom at this flower-filled event with Remington plant shop B. Willow. There will be bouquet-making stations for little ones, and a specialty mead from Charm City Meadworks for moms to sip while their kiddos participate in the craft. 

5/26: King of The Castle Competition
Show off your skills in the spot’s first-ever sandcastle competition later this month. Participants will have four hours to build their structures while spectators enter to win raffle prizes and sample Monument City brews throughout the day. The contest is open to professional and novice sculptors of all ages. “I was happy that Sandlot became such a family place last year,” says Polyoka, a father of four. “It was something I was really hoping we could do, and it was always great to see kids there playing in the sandboxes. I think that’s one of the things we really got right.”

As with all things related to the Baltimore Rock Opera Society, they have some unconventional rules to live by.

“We have our official charter that incorporates us as a nonprofit,” says BROS executive director Aran Keating. “And then we have this unofficial charter that we made up and article one is ‘There will be beer.’”

So it almost seems like destiny that the local theater group would one day have its very own beer, brewed and packaged especially for them. The Chuggernaut, which is a collaboration with The Brewer’s Art and canned locally at Oliver Brewing, is a 4.5-percent ABV Kolsch-style ale that will be available after April 7.

“This aligned with our vision for how we want BROS to be perceived,” Keating says. “It’s not just a theater company—it’s a community, a feeling, a whole brand. Plus, beer is a big part of what it means to enjoy the hell out of a live rock show.”

The Brewer’s Art was a fitting collaborator since the bar was the setting for BROS’ very first fundraiser and has brewed one-off releases for the company’s past shows. But this is the first time they were able to can something exclusive and sell it retail.

“With changes in the packaging landscape, now you can do short runs and make 200 cases of beer,” says Brewer’s Art co-owner Tom Creegan. “The BROS’ desire matched up with the technology and it’s been great working with Oliver to make this happen.”

Chuggernaut, a name Creegan was surprised got approved by the Tax and Trade Bureau, is dry-hopped with traditional noble hops and features labels by local artists John DeCampos and Shannon Hadley.

“I wanted to do something that was imminently crushable,” Creegan says. “It just tastes like beer. It’s not fruity, not overly hoppy. We kind of went old-school with it.”

The beer will first be available at BROS’ upcoming fundraiser gala Swanktacular, on April 7 at Mt. Zion Church, and then patrons can get it at The Brewer’s Art, Remington Wine Company, and The Wine Source.

The theater company’s latest show, “Incredibly Dead,” premieres at the church on May 12, as the BROS get ready to announce its permanent home. Keating says he and his team are currently working on a space in Station North.

“The BROS and Aran have been steady patrons for a long time,” says Creegan. “We just fell in love with the energy and creativity they bring to the city. They are so Baltimore.”

Cue the giant sculptural campfire, the Adirondack chairs, the dance socials—and, apparently, performances by a Gypsy punk band and a kick-ass female drummer.

Gogol Bordello will headline this year’s camp-themed Artscape, performing on Saturday. The night before, legendary R&B and funk performer Sheila E. (“Glamorous Life”, anyone?) takes the stage, and Sunday features soul group Robert Randolph & The Family Band.

“Artscape is one of the most exciting things we do in the city every single year,” said Mayor Catherine Pugh at the press conference announcement at the Parkway Theatre today. 

Camp Artscape: Adventure Awaits—as the country’s largest free arts festival is being designated this year—runs from July 21-23. And there are plenty of features that are on theme—from a “camp site” on Charles Street where festival-goers can taste camp-inspired eats and connect with fellow “campers” to a whole installation devoted to “dance camp” where you can live out your summer stock dreams in a workshop or catch a high-energy performance.

And, of course, there will be plenty of the old favorites—the artists’ market that lines West Mount Royal Avenue, street performers, concerts from the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra and OrchKids. Plus, there’s food from 100-percent Maryland food vendors and, new this year, the beers will also be 100-percent local, including selections from Flying Dog, Heavy Seas, Union Craft, and The Brewer’s Art. 

“It’s great because it’s right in our backyard,” says Tom Creegan, co-owner of The Brewer’s Art. “It’s been a trend that’s been building for a long time and the people at BOPA have really taken notice. I’m glad they’re seeing the plethora of really awesome products available and are choosing to highlight them along with all of the local artists.”

As for new features, the Parkway will host a free feature film and short films, Argentinian dance phenom Che Malambo will perform at the Lyric, and a portable gallery will showcase the work of Brian High, a junior at the Baltimore Design School, at the median of Mount Royal Avenue.

Add to that sets by Ama Chandra, Baltimore rockers Super City, and 15-year-old rapper Faame Emanuel, plus pop-up performances and art shows around the city, and Artscape promises to be the same sweat-soaked, mind-blowing, city-wide party that is always a highlight of the summer. 

Growing up in Germany, it was only natural that Volker Stewart would fall in love with beer. By college, he moved to California, where the romance only intensified, arriving in 1982 as a vibrant craft beer scene was just beginning to brew. One sip of Anchor Steam and he knew he was hooked.

Eventually, Stewart followed a friend to Baltimore and landed a job as a reference librarian at the University of Baltimore. In Charm City, brewers Hugh Sisson (of Heavy Seas) and Bill Oliver (of Oliver Brewing) were leading the charge, and before long, Stewart hopped aboard the beer bandwagon, turning a then-91-year-old former antique store in Mt. Vernon into Baltimore’s first Belgian-style brewpub.

“It was a lemonade stand idea,” he says, “and the rest is history.”

Beneath the building’s high ceilings, marble columns, and timeworn elegance, he started with four beers: a pale ale, a rotating seasonal, the Ozzy (now named Beazly after a cease-and-desist from its namesake rock star, Ozzy Osbourne), and the best-selling Resurrection. Within no time, fans were flocking for creative concoctions, candlelit conversation, and the cavernous basement bar.

Twenty years later, even in Baltimore’s exceedingly hot beer climate, The Brewer’s Art continues to serve some of the best suds in town.

“I still feel like the new kid on the block,” says Stewart, who will be releasing a new ale to commemorate the occasion this fall and hosting an anniversary party at the Baltimore Museum of Industry on October 6. “Baltimore has always been loyal to us. I’m really grateful after all these years.”

Chances are, if you’ve been to any local event, you’ll recognize “Bowtie Bob” Nelson. He’s the older man in pastel colors, maybe a flashy fedora, but always wearing a bow tie. 

The Mt. Vernon resident, 69, who dubs himself “semi-retired,” goes out five nights a week and says he’s not slowing down. “I never want to confuse my age with my date of birth,” he says with a laugh. “People think I’m crazy to go out so much in the city, but I love the people, the neighborhoods.” 

A typical week for Nelson involves nonprofit meetings, hanging out at The Brewer’s Art or Liam Flynn’s Ale House, seeing a movie at The Charles Theatre, hitting up a weekend festival, and walking 10 miles a day. 

And you can’t forget his style. “I’ve always been Joe College or preppy,” he says. “I won’t take the trash out without a bow tie on.” Nelson says he owns nearly 40 versions of his signature accessory and shops vintage at DeBois Textiles. Basically, at nearly 70 years old and rocking a pacemaker, Nelson is one of the coolest kids in town. 

“I may have another 30 years or three days left,” he says. “But, I’ll be laying down in the ground a lot longer. So I’ve got plenty of time to do that later on.”

An Poitin Stil

Timonium
By 7:15 p.m., An
Poitin Stil’s parking lot is filled. Inside, happy hour is bleeding into
a bender. Four small groups of officemates are spread throughout The
Stil, that rarest of breed, a county establishment that feels more bar
than restaurant. Not that it lacks tasty fare. The Stil offers Irish
classics like fish and chips and stew. Behind the eight-sided main bar,
conversation varies from shop talk to gossip as the Harps flow. Outside
on the heated “paddy ’o,” more white collars lean on the semi-circular
bar, sipping suds while a duo plays familiar classic rock tunes. It’s 9
p.m. now, and comments like, “You want a Jäger bomb?” and “What’s your
favorite kind of underwear?” are overheard. Tomorrow should be an
interesting workday, assuming everyone makes it into the office. 2323
York Road, 410-560-7900, thestill.net

The Brewer’s Art

Mt. Vernon
Walk
up to The Brewer’s Art, and you’re faced with a decision. Head through
the double doors into the foyer of the grand row house-turned-restaurant
or descend the stairs to the dim and grimy wine cellar-turned-bar.
You’ll be happy either way—the upstairs exudes elegance, with dark wood
molding and marble fireplaces. When you feel like late-night drinks,
downstairs is the perfect hangout with its cozy corner tables carved
with initials. But what we have to mention is the beer. Six tap handles,
some handmade by brewers, signal what’s on draft for the night: a
roughly hewn cross for their famous abbey brown ale Resurrection, a hand
throwing up metal horns for their devilish, Belgian-style Ozzy (a
signed, black-and-white image of the star himself sits behind the bar),
and so on. All suds are brewed on-site, but if beer’s not your thing
(we’ll let it slide), extensive wine and whiskey lists are sure to
quench your thirst. 1106 N. Charles Street, 410-547-9310, thebrewersart.com

Cat’s Eye Pub

Fells Point
Venture
into Cat’s Eye Pub, and you’ll be welcomed with open arms—or at least a
handshake across the bar from co-owner Tony Cushing Jr. A family-owned
Baltimore staple for more than 35 years, the bar has a steady group of
regulars and tourists on pilgrimage. (It made All About Beer’s list of
125 places to have a beer before you die.) The dive’s eclectic décor has
influences Irish, maritime, and downright random. (An upside-down
Christmas tree hangs from the ceiling.) Talented bands and a
come-as-you-are vibe distinguish this pub from its neighbors. There’s
live music every night (one particularly awesome blues band improvised
lyrics about an O’s game) and the front bar is crowded with dancers.
Move to the back room or patio for laid-back conversation with a crowd
diverse in age and style. You’ll find no pretense here, just genuine
people looking to have a good time. 1730 Thames Street, 410-276-9866, catseyepub.com

The Club Charles

Station North
Whatever
you might have heard about The Club Charles, it’s probably true. Yes,
it can be cliquish and dripping with hipster attitude—what do you want?
Matt Porterfield hangs out here!—but it also has low drink prices and
very competent bartenders. The music alone could keep you there for
hours, crafting your own playlist that includes the Cocteau Twins, James
Brown, The Velvet Underground, and The Jesus Lizard. The place is
really, really red, but that only adds to the den-of-iniquity vibe. It’s
got two bars and several retro-looking booths and cubbies. The kitchen
next door pumps out tasty burgers and pizza, and if you’re drinking on a
budget, it’s hard to beat $2.75 for a PBR and $4.30 for a pint of
Guinness. Sure, The Club Charles is not the easiest place to make new
friends, but that shouldn’t matter since you’ll probably run into
someone you know. 1724 N. Charles Street, 410-727-8815, theclubcharles.com

Curb Shoppe Bar & Grill

Mt. Washington
Everything’s
in such tight proximity at the Curb Shoppe that the cops on one side of
the bar can almost certainly hear the conversation about drugs that two
men and a woman are having on the other. (It doesn’t help that these
three appear to have been on their stools for quite some time, and as
such, they’re pretty much shouting.) Neither group cares. It’s comfort
not conflict that has kept the Curb Shoppe around all these years. It
serves sandwiches on white, wheat, or rye—a practice, like the place
itself, that’s seems timeless. If you’re not craving a plate of the Curb
Shoppe’s classic burger bites or gravy fries—not likely—help yourself
to a basket of pretzels on the bar. The beer is cold, the drinks are
strong, and maybe the only proof that it’s 2012 and not 1982 is the
constant parade of people walking outside to smoke. 5736 Falls Road,
410-433-8299, curbshoppe.com

Duda’s Tavern

Fells Point
Duda’s
has come a long way from its mid-century origins as a shot-and-beer
bar, a gathering place—and occasional boarding house—for ship captains
and seafaring men. Now operated by the third generation of the Duda
family, the attractively renovated tavern, at the corner of Bond and
Thames, is a comfortable spot to enjoy a Resurrection draft, some
complimentary peanuts, and a really delicious crab cake on a soft
brioche roll. Weeknight and happy-hour specials provide more reasons to
visit Duda’s and enjoy the ’80s music, pleasing draft selection, and
sports shown on three TVs. In warm weather, the crowd spills onto the
sidewalk, where a handful of tables offer a cafe feel. 1600 Thames
Street, 410-276-9719, dudastavern.com

Frazier’s on the Avenue

Hampden
After
pouring a glass of red wine, filled to the brim, our bartender asks us
not for cash or a credit card, but for our names. We’re at the smaller
of Frazier’s two bars (the one in the room with a single pool table)
and, even though we’re the only people here he doesn’t know, he treats
us like we’re regulars. We will be soon. The sum of its nuances makes
Frazier’s special—the flavorful salsa served with the potato skins, the
wide wooden bar with a step on which to rest your feet and a ledge for
your elbows, and the welcoming people on both sides of it. After
splitting two salmon cakes and a delicious plate of fries, we order a
nightcap. Our driver asks if she can get a half glass of wine. “Sure,”
the bartender says. You get the feeling that he rarely says “no.” He
starts pouring, looks up smiling, and says, “Just say when.” 919 W. 36th
Street, 410-662-4914

Howard’s Subway

Linthicum
In
July of 1946, Oscar Howard Sensibaugh and his wife, Ruby, bought a
house on Hammonds Ferry Road and opened a bar in the basement. The
underground location begat its enigmatic name: Subway. Four generations
of Sensibaughs have worked the bar since, and honor Howard’s creation.
It is a monument to what a basement bar should look like—a precise
mixture of Formica, wood paneling, tile and terrazzo floors, red-leather
stools, and amber wall sconces. Judy the bartender scolds a customer
for using profanity, and he sheepishly apologizes. At a corner booth,
five young men share a pitcher of beer. The double doors to the kitchen
swing open and Karen Sensibaugh carries a tray of loudly sizzling New
York strip steaks. As she runs to the table, smoke trails behind her,
and when she sets the metal platters down, the men applaud and cheer. As
they eat, a mouthwatering aroma fills the room, and several patrons ask
to see menus. 711 N. Hammonds Ferry Road, 410-789-6609

Jennings Cafe

Catonsville
Jennings
Cafe feels a lot like your uncle’s knotty-pine clubroom, and even the
regulars will welcome you like a long-lost cousin.
Family-owned-and-operated since 1958, Jennings is a comfortable spot to
have a few beers and watch the game with the guys, but it’s wholesome
enough to bring the kids for dinner, even complete with a children’s
menu that includes spaghetti, hot dogs, and chicken tenders—plus, plenty
of choices for grownups. Try the popular crab cakes, soft crabs, and
shrimp salad with a side of cucumber and onions, lovingly prepared by
the matriarch herself, Mrs. Jennings. With a subtle horse-racing theme
referencing its roots, and waitresses who just might pull up a chair and
shoot the breeze while you eat, Jennings has a comfortably dated feel.
The only modern element might be the clever addition of Fat Tire ale to
the tap array. 808 Frederick Road, 410-744-3824, jenningscafe.com

Johnny Dee’s Lounge

Parkville
Tucked
in the lower level of the Loch Ridge Shopping Center, Johnny Dee’s
Lounge is literally a hideaway. Walk through the unassuming doors and be
transported to another time. This isn’t your grandfather’s lounge,
unless your grandfather was very hip. The main room is filled with
enough vintage mid-century modern furniture to make the set designers of
Mad Men weep. If you don’t want to sit in the lounge, try to get a seat
at the bar. Its “L” shape, with nine black leather stools crowded
around it, makes it ideal for chatting up strangers or drinking with a
friend. If you want a beer, go ahead and order one of the 20 bottled
brands in stock. But there’s something about the place that just makes
you want a cocktail—a classic martini, Manhattan, or Tom Collins.
Bartenders Joan, Tiffany, and Henry pour 30 years of combined experience
into every drink. Small plaques bearing the names of good customers
line the walls—they can’t be purchased, they must be earned. And there’s
no better time to start. 1705 Amuskai Road, 410-665-7000

The Judge’s Bench Pub

Ellicott City
In
a city where our favorite bars are around the corner, driving 20
minutes down the road seems unnecessary. That is, until we visit The
Judge’s Bench Pub in Ellicott City. Located right on quaint Main Street,
the stone building bedazzled with white Christmas lights gives off an
immediately warm feeling. We plop down on two open bar stools and notice
a diverse array of beer taps hanging from the ceiling and marvel at how
the bartender, Carrie, seems to know everyone’s back story. “How’s the
new job?” she’ll ask. “Did you get a haircut?” Though we’re not
regulars, she’s sweet as can be as we order a beer flight (four 4-ounce
pours) including Ommegang Abbey, Heavy Seas Great Pumpkin, Stoudts
Achluophobia, and a Weyerbacher Heresy stout. Without missing a beat,
she assures us that the Stoudts isn’t too strong, and only clocks in at
4.8 percent ABV. Rumors are this place is haunted (like most of Ellicott
City), but we can’t help but feel a sense of total comfort, and we’re
not the only ones. “That’s what happens,” says a middle-aged man next to
us. “You come in here for one drink and, before you know it, they’re
closing down.” 8385 Main Street, 410-465-3497, judgesbenchpub.com

Leon’s

Mt. Vernon
No
one seems to remember the name of the first bar at the corner of Tyson
Street and Park Avenue, or how long it had been there. But in 1957 it
was called Leon’s, and Leon’s was the first “gay-friendly” bar in
Baltimore. So, to Charm City’s gay community, it’s hallowed ground. On
Sunday nights, the place is packed and fun. Patrons, all male, are
spilling out the front door onto the sidewalk. Inside, Ben the bartender
works the oval bar, quickly serving two-for-one, happy-hour drinks.
It’s a dark, low-ceilinged place, and techno music blares from the
speakers without overwhelming the conversations. There is no uniform:
Denim is as prevalent as leather; Orioles and Ravens jerseys are both
represented; and men in Polo shirts sit next to men wearing no shirts at
all. Hugs and kisses get exchanged when walking in, even if you walked
out just a minute before. Some patrons are obviously alone, but no one
looks lonely. And maybe that’s all anyone should ask of any bar, gay or
straight. 870 Park Avenue, 410-539-4993, leonsbaltimore.tripod.com

Muir’s Tavern

South Baltimore
There
was a time when Fort Avenue was lined with family-owned bars—perhaps as
many as 30 between Race Street and Fort McHenry. South Baltimore’s
locals bought drinks from their neighbors in places called Cox’s,
Hartlove’s, and Henry’s. Today those names are nothing but memories,
only Muir’s remains. It’s a Formstone castle at the corner of Marshall
Street and Fort Avenue with a classic Baltimore pedigree. It was founded
in 1944 by Roland Muir, a tugboat captain, who ran the place and lived
upstairs. His son, Roland Jr. took over in 1968, but not before he
worked 23 years as a longshoreman and 18 years for the National Brewing
Company. Inside, it’s pure Baltimore: There’s a framed portrait of
Johnny Unitas on the wall, the Natty Boh signage dates back to when it
was actually made here, and red neon light bathes everything. The bar
fills up on a Friday afternoon and Roland Jr. sits at a back table with
his nephew, Tom, the third-generation Muir at the helm. They clink two
beer cans together and toast the approach of the seventh decade. 36 E.
Fort Avenue, 410-385-0344