OPEN

C&R Pub: We thought we’d seen the last of this Southern saloon, which used to be a go-to for honky-tonk tunes, life-sized Jenga, and Thursday “flip-night” drink discounts before it closed in Federal Hill two years ago. But old regulars will be happy to hear that the country concept has officially been revived—this time in Towson. The new iteration of Cowboys & Rednecks sits on the first floor of the mixed-use Towson Commons development along York Road. Featuring dark woods, plenty of flat screens, and a huge bar with more than 20 seats, the pub offers a barbecue-inspired menu listing everything from light bites to larger entrees. Specialty plates include the Rattlesnake Burger with jalapeño bacon, “Mountain Mama” steak salad, and signature “See Ya Later Gator” bites served with a zesty dipping sauce. 1 W. Pennsylvania Ave., Towson

Poulet: A second location of this popular spot off of Falls Road celebrated its grand opening in Timonium this week. Situated just across from the Maryland State Fairgrounds, the new eatery will offer the restaurant’s cafeteria-style entrees, sides, and hand-dipped ice cream in a much larger space that can seat more than 200. It will also feature an elevated bar program with a collection of small-batch whiskeys, wine on tap, and local craft beer from the likes of RAR and Union Craft. In keeping with its name, Poulet highlights rotisserie chicken and other proteins like sliced turkey, pulled pork, and grilled salmon. There’s also a lengthy sandwich menu, DIY burrito bar, and featured sides like scalloped potatoes and grilled cauliflower. 2235 York Rd., Timonium. 410-842-2270

COMING SOON

Lee’s Pint & Shell: Since rebranding from its former concept, Saute, two years ago, Lee’s Pint & Shell has become a favorite for Canton locals to crack open discounted beers and slurp down 50-cent oysters during happy hour. Now, the corner spot is rapidly expanding throughout the state. In addition to their dockbar Lee’s Landing in Cecil County, owners Bud Craven and David Carey are also planning to open a sister-spot in Sparrows Point this year. And, earlier this week, they announced that they recently settled on a fourth location on the Susquehanna River in Perryville. The old Perryville Yacht Club—which sits on four acres and has 80 boat slips—will soon be transformed into a Lee’s spinoff, with plenty of oysters, Orange Crushes, and seafood specialties to go around. 31 River Rd., Perryville.

The Urban Oyster: Chef Jasmine Norton’s beloved oyster bar will host one final pop-up at R. House next month before moving into a brick-and-mortar space of its own in 2019. The Urban Oyster plans to set up shop inside the former home of Ruby 8 Noodles & Sushi at McHenry Row in Locust Point early next year. Norton recently told The Baltimore Sun that the new eatery will provide kitchen space for her to prepare for farmers’ markets and festivals, while also acting as a permanent outpost for diners to find her oyster-inspired eats any time. Menu favorites include chargrilled oysters with parmesan and lemon-garlic butter, fried oyster tacos, a classic crab cake sandwich, and, of course, raw oysters on the half shell. 1702 Whetstone Way

NEWS

John Brown Butchery Adds Antique Shop: As the temperatures continue to drop and the holiday season approaches, it’s the perfect time to pay a visit to this hybrid-butchery, cafe, general store, and coffee shop in Cockeysville. Not only is the destination offering a wide selection Thanksgiving turkeys and holiday meats this season, but it has also added a new antiques shop, Hedgerow, for shoppers looking for unique gifts and decorations. Stop by the butchery to chow down on a cold cut sandwich or meatball sub before browsing the one-of-a-kind artwork, china, and table centerpieces at the new antique store. 13501 Falls Rd., Cockeysville. 410-891-8549

Hotel Monaco Wins Northstar Meetings Group Award: Congratulations are in order for downtown’s Kimpton Hotel Monaco, which recently received the 2018 Stella Award for Best Boutique Property in the Northeast region. Northstar Meetings Group presented the award to honor the hotel’s excellence in the meetings industry—considering its food and beverage program, staff professionalism, technological amenities, and more. The hotel, which houses celebrated bar and restaurant B&O American Brasserie, was one of 532 global properties nominated in 18 categories. 2 N. Charles St. 443-692-6170

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/17: Oyfest 5
The teams behind Union Craft Brewing, The Local Oyster, and True Chesapeake Oyster Company are coming together to host this fifth-annual festival at Union Collective this weekend. Grab a crew and enjoy endless shucks, draft beers, pizza from Well Crafted, and live tunes by the Ursula Ricks Project. If you’re really feeling festive, throw your hat in the ring during the annual oyster-eating contest. The $50 entrance fee, and a portion of all other proceeds, will be donated directly to the Friends of the Jones Falls Valley to keep our urban waterway clean and beautiful. 1700 W. 41st St. 12-5 p.m. $15-50

11/18: Put a Scoop on It Pancake Pop-Up with Big Softy
Detroit native Craig Falk, owner and executive chef of The Lunchbox Lady, is celebrating his love for pancakes this weekend by hosting an afternoon event with The Charmery owners David and Laura Alima at their shop in Towson. Falk’s Big Softy pop-up will be dishing out plain and malty chip pancakes topped with either blueberry or apple fruit topping. Each treat will be finished off with a scoop of any Charmery flavor, drizzle of Michigan maple syrup, and sprinkle of powdered sugar. 6807 York Rd., Towson. 10 a.m.-1 p.m. 443-275-2859

SHUT

Ludlow Market: It was a short-lived run for this concept that took over the former Wine Market Bistro space in Locust Point last summer. In June, longtime owner Chris Spann reopened the 14-year-old restaurant as Ludlow Market, featuring a new menu by chef Christopher Audia, updated interior, and enhanced outdoor patio. But, sadly, the changes weren’t enough to keep the restaurant afloat. “I think ultimately we didn’t allocate enough marketing dollars to give the concept a chance to take hold with people,” Spann says. “That’s where we came up short. But I find a lot of solace in the interactions I had with guests who were so enthusiastic, and often giddy about some of the signature dishes we had put on the menu.” While the restaurant has closed for good, its adjoining bottle shop will be offering discounts on its remaining stock throughout the weekend. 921 E. Fort Ave.

When The Wine Market Bistro opened in 2004, the chic warehouse space, which serves modern American fare inside the historic Foundry on Fort complex, was a novelty. The concept: Buy a bottle of Bordeaux at the attached wine shop boasting 800 bottles and get 15 percent off your purchase if you dine next door. At the time, the gimmick was cute, even catchy.

For many years, The Wine Market was a great gathering spot and one of the hottest reservations in town. But all good things must come to an end, and, by March 2018, after more than 13 years of business, the fickle crowds had moved on. But rather than call it quits, several months later, Wine Market restaurateur Christopher Spann reopened the space with a new name—Ludlow Market, Bar & Bottle Shop—as well as a new look and a new chef in the form of Christopher Audia, formerly of Tail Up Goat in Washington, D.C. Thankfully, there’s still a wine shop next door with the same discount offer.

I was a fan of the original restaurant, so I was eager to return, though, upon entering the space, with the exception of small tweaks—added splashes of color with red aluminum chairs and a colorful glass wall—I couldn’t discern the difference between the new and old spot.

My visit to Ludlow Market was perfectly pleasant, but the fact that our party of four was dining in a nearly empty restaurant didn’t feel good. And here’s my dining diagnosis: Sadly, a small neighborhood restaurant with an eclectic New American menu (shareable plates, classic sandwiches, more substantial mains) doesn’t necessarily spell success anymore now that so many new spots have sprung up in the city.

Food-wise, there’s a lot to like here—a dish boasting multicolored heirloom roasted carrots and cipollini offered a rush of pleasure with its sweet-and-sour notes. A painterly plate of plump, pan-seared scallops with watercress remoulade was good enough to get again and again. A Sukiyaki beef sub with mirin-marinated beef, Gochujang mayo, and stir-fry veggies was a fun cheesesteak riff for this Philly girl. Along with the hits, though, there were misses. A seafood risotto special with curry had us hunting for the advertised shrimp and sea bass, and a pan-seared salmon with blue crab butter and Calabrian chili served over wax beans tasted a bit like an institutional diet platter.

In the service realm we had no complaints. Our server was attentive and made great suggestions throughout the night, bringing extra rounds of baguette for our cheese plate and pacing out our courses in a way that made sense and never felt rushed.

Baltimore’s dining scene is at a crossroads these days, and this city of neighborhoods needs to make room for smaller spots. But which ones not only survive, but thrive, depends on the will and whims of the people. We suspect that if old Wine Market fans give this place a chance, they’ll find much to enjoy.

---

Ludlow Market, Bar & Bottle Shop 921 E. Fort Ave., 410-244-6166.
HOURS Tues.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; 5-10 p.m.; Fri. 11:30-3 p.m., 5-11 p.m.; Sat. 5-11 p.m. PRICES Starters, small plates: $6-17; entrees: $18-48. AMBIANCE Minimalist warehouse.

When Baltimore-born chef Christopher Audia first met with Wine Market Bistro owner Chris Spann about launching a new concept in the Locust Point space, it didn’t take long for the two to come to an understanding about the menu.

“Chris explained that he wanted this to be more of a neighborhood spot that people would visit fairly frequently,” Audia says. “He wanted to make it so that people could stop in and get a few dishes to share with friends, and really make the experience a little more playful.”

Locals will be able to try out the new concept for themselves when Ludlow Market, Bar & Bottle Shop—named after its proximity to Ludlow Street in Locust Point—debuts to the public in mid-June.

The space formerly housed Spann’s Wine Market Bistro, which he closed in March after 13 years due to lack of business. This time around, the spot will have a more casual feel with expanded food and drink menus at varying price points, an updated interior, and a focus on small-batch offerings in its attached wine shop—which remains open throughout renovations.

Audia plans for the locally sourced menu to fit all occasions, whether diners are looking for small plates, sandwiches, or more elaborate entrees. The chef, who was born in Hampstead, went to Johnson & Wales University in Rhode Island for culinary school, and later moved to Boston to work at French restaurant No. 9 Park. He recently moved back to the area to be closer to family, and built his resume at D.C. hotspots Mirabella and Tail Up Goat.

“I’ve worked in a fair amount of classical kitchens,” he says. “I never got the chance to actually eat at Wine Market Bistro when it was still open, but I think the style of food will be similar. It’s going to be contemporary food, but executed in a more classical sense.”

Though Audia is still hard at work testing dishes, he is eager to introduce eats like his grilled lamb ribs with hazelnut harissa and herb salad, Belgian frites finished in beef fat served with three dipping sauces, and toasted crostini topped with house-made ricotta, pea pesto, and grated parmesan.

The bar program is also aiming to accommodate a wide range of tastes by introducing draft beer, boozy slushies, and a gin and tonic menu, while keeping Wine Market’s lengthy wine list.

“We’re trying to pair all of the classical food with these very much Old World wines,” Audia says. “And we’re going to focus on making sure that the cocktails go well with the shareable appetizers. We want to be able to use the pairings to guide guests into any specific experience.”

While the space inside the historic Foundry Building won’t lose its industrial feel, the team has enhanced it with new furniture and tabletops, a fresh color scheme, and more lighting on its outdoor patio. Spann has added a partition wall to separate the bar from the dining room in hopes of making it its own destination.

Additional changes are in the works at the adjoining bottle shop, which will expand its offerings with more beverages from family-owned wineries, distilleries, and breweries. With the neighborhood in mind, Spann is also adding refrigeration space to the shop so that locals can stop in to grab cured meats, cheeses, and other gourmet takeaway items. 

Audia is also excited about embracing the local community, not only through exploring Chesapeake flavors, but also by getting to know the Locust Point neighborhood

“Baltimore has such an up-and-coming food scene with so much potential,” he says. “Being a part of something that can create more of a community and a culture in the city has always been a dream of mine.”

NEWS

Baltimore Whiskey Company Brings Home The Gold: It’s been an exciting week for the Baltimore Whiskey Company (BWC). The Remington distillery’s new Epoch Rye Whiskey—the first of its kind to be distilled in Baltimore in more than 50 years—has been awarded a double gold medal by the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits Competition. The coveted double gold distinction indicates that the spirit was given a unanimous gold rating by all judges. “Epoch Rye is the light at the end of a five-year tunnel for us, and we couldn’t be happier with our product,” BWC co-owner Max Lents said in a statement. “It’s amazing to see some of the most accomplished spirit tasters list it among the best Rye Whiskeys in the world.” The distillery was also recently awarded multiple gold medals from the New York International Spirits Competition. Aside from being named Maryland Distillery of the Year, BWC took home gold medals for its Shot Tower gin and coffee-flavored amaro from its Baltamaro line. The accolades come as BWC prepares to unveil its brand new facility and ramp up production at Union Collective this summer.

Heavy Seas Expanding its Taproom: Changes are on the horizon at Heavy Seas’ 23-year-old facility in Halethorpe. Next summer, the brewery will unveil a renovated taproom and new 15-barrel brewhouse that will allow the team to get creative with a limited-edition series unique to the taproom. Local designers have already begun planning their vision for the taproom, which will be seven times larger than the current space and feature reclaimed wood tables and a private event room. The facility will remain open throughout renovations. 4615 Hollins Ferry Road, 410-247-7822

Smoke Temporarily Closing at Cross Street Market: This weekend will be the last for diners to snack on brisket and pulled pork sandwiches at Smoke’s Federal Hill pop-up. After six months, the Cockeysville ’cue joint is closing up shop while construction continues inside Cross Street Market. But a post to Instagram indicates that the spot has every intention of coming back: “We can’t wait to return to the new market,” the post reads. “This thing is going to be sick!” The first phase of renovations on the Light Street side of the market are slated to debut this fall. In the meantime, diners can feast on Smoke’s fingerlickin’ fare at its flagship location in Cockeysville. 1065 S. Charles St.

Local Brunch Spots Awarded by OpenTable: Four Charm City restaurants were recently named among the 100 best brunch spots in the country by OpenTable. This year’s list gave nods to The Food Market in Hampden, Gertrude’s at the BMA in Charles Village, Rusty Scupper in the Inner Harbor, and Woodberry Kitchen in Clipper Mill. The list was narrowed down from more than 45,000 OpenTable reviews of brunch destinations throughout the country.

COMING SOON

Ludlow Market, Bar & Bottle Shop: Owner Christopher Spann is breathing new life into his restaurant and adjoining wine shop in the historic Foundry Building in Locust Point. The space was the longtime home of Spann’s Wine Market Bistro, which he closed in March due to lack of business. “The bistro side wasn’t hitting the necessary numbers,” he told us. Now, he is planning to launch a reimagined concept next month. Ludlow Market will offer an “upscale neighborhood” menu of shareables, sandwiches, and entrees sourced by local purveyors. Heading up the kitchen will be chef Christopher Audia, a Baltimore native whose resume includes stints at Tail Up Goat in Washington, D.C. and No. 9 Park in Boston. The Bottle Shop, which remains open throughout the turnover, will upgrade its offerings to focus more on beer and wine, as well as cured meats, cheeses, and other takeaway items. 921 E. Fort Ave. 410-244-6166

Italian Disco: A grand opening date has been set for this new ’80s-inspired pizza joint from Atlas Restaurant Group—which also owns Ouzo Bay, Azumi, Loch Bar, Bygone, and Tagliata in the area. Italian Disco will debut on Monday, May 18, featuring an elevated DJ booth and Wurlitzer jukebox. The menu will highlight wood-fired pies, sandwiches, and entrees paired with 50 craft beers on tap. 1006 Fleet St.

Papi’s Tacos: Come fall, Hampden locals won’t have to leave the neighborhood to chow down on Papi’s signature build-your-own street tacos. The Fells Point taqueria recently announced plans to open a second location in the former home of Dimitri’s Tavern on Falls Road. The spot will mimic the vibe of its flagship, with interior touches like exposed brick, strung lights, greenery, and plenty of sugar skulls. 3820 Falls Road.

OPEN

Urban Deli: This Federal Hill outpost quickly became a go-to for deli sandwiches and hangover breakfasts when it opened on Light Street in the spring of 2016. And it recently reopened in larger digs a few blocks north. Taking over the former home of Wok & Roll at 1025 Light Street, the new cafe features its signature coffee counter, bar seating, and pops of bright yellow throughout. The menu consists of deli sandwiches, wraps, paninis, salads, soups, and local Towson Hot Bagels. 1025 Light St., 443-708-0495.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/10: Creative Alliance Date Nights at Verde
Thursday evenings throughout May, Verde will be offering a special pairings dinner that includes a $20 discount on tickets to Thursday-evening shows at the Creative Alliance in Highlandtown. Head to the restaurant to enjoy a three-course prix fixe menu with options including roasted beet salad, burrata caprese, classic margherita and pistachio pesto pizzas, tiramisu, and imported hazelnut gelato. Mark your calendar for performances like Tuareg musician Mdou Moctor on May 10, musical comedian Dina Martina on May 24, and percussive dance quartet Duo Duo on May 31. 641 S. Montford Ave., 410-522-1000

5/17: Dinner for the Mamas of Baltimore: Flowers While I’m Here
Mother’s Day continues into next week at Ida B’s Table, where five female leaders will gather to host this intimate dinner and conversation. Enjoy a three-course menu from chef Dave Thomas while listening in on a discussion between MacArthur fellow Joyce J. Scott, actress Maria Broom, and performance artists Kibibi Ajanku, Rashida Forman-Bey, and Kay Lawal Muhammad. All five women are featured in the restaurant’s most recent art exhibition, SEEN, A Mother’s Intention, which will be on display from May 2-31. Ida B’s Table, 235 Holliday St., 6-8 p.m., $50.

SHUT

The BBQ: It was a short-but-sweet run for this Greenmount Avenue spot, which quickly became a destination for mouthwatering barbecue and sides when it opened last summer. Among the many foodies taking to social media to mourn the loss are the owners of Dovecote Cafe in Reservoir Hill. “Fam, running a small, black-owned business is extremely hard,” they posted to Facebook. “Please support our businesses, not just when it’s trending or ‘Small Business Week.’ We’re heartbroken.” The BBQ was recently named among Eater’s 12 hottest new restaurants in Baltimore. 2602 Greenmount Ave.

Rachel New American Cuisine: Speaking of short-lived spots, this Riverside restaurant has shuttered its doors after only 16 months. Regretfully, we are no longer open for service,” management posted to Facebook earlier this week. “The staff and ownership of Rachel are incredibly grateful to everyone who has supported our endeavor. Thank you to each of our guests and the entire Fed Hill community for allowing us to serve you.” Rachel, which was a hangout for charcuterie and cocktails, brunch, and dinner service—is the latest in a string of restaurant closures occurring throughout the area. There’s no word yet on what will become of the building. 554 E. Fort Ave.

Recently, the Baltimore restaurant scene has been changing as often as an Italian chef stirs a good risotto. Of course, change is inevitable, but the turnover in the area’s dining landscape—whether it be closures, rebrands, or eateries going up on the market—has become significantly more frequent lately.

In fact, the Bureau of Labor Statistics reports that the number of eating and drinking establishments in Baltimore City has been steadily decreasing since 2013. (The number dropped from 1,613 to 1,539 from 2013 to 2016.) And recent headlines seem to support these numbers.

Following the closures of city-wide favorites including Metropolitan Coffeehouse & Wine Bar in Federal Hill, Tavern on the Hill in Mt. Vernon, and Bistro RX in Patterson Park, Locust Point’s Wine Market Bistro announced earlier this week that it would be closing after 13 years. While the spot’s front bar and wine shop will remain open for the foreseeable future, owner Chris Spann confirms that the dining room will operate its final night of service on Saturday, March 17.

“The bistro side was not hitting the necessary numbers,” he says.“It’s a hyper-competitive time for operators who have to compete against many skilled and highly-funded restaurateurs, as well as the talented young men and women with dedication and passion to create compelling concepts and cult followings.”

Though the number of restaurants is decreasing, the quality of the new ones opening in Baltimore has raised the bar. Fierce competition is something that Gia Fracassetti, who owns Cafe Gia in Little Italy, has noticed in the current culinary landscape.

“It’s obvious that we’re saturated with a lot of new outstanding restaurants,” she says. “I’m up for the challenge and I know a lot of my business neighbors are, as well. We’re very committed to making it work.”

According to the National Restaurant Association’s 2017 State of the Industry report, daily competition with other foodservice outlets remains a top challenge for large portions of the industry. On a national scale, more than two-thirds of restaurant operators cited competition and inability to attract new customers as significant or moderate challenges for their businesses last year. In Baltimore, some see lack of customer acquisition relating to parking problems and crime issues.

“It’s tough to get diners down here,” Sean White, owner of 101 Deli Bar in Federal Hill, recently told us. “We’re the only neighborhood that’s permit parking, so we do the best we can. A lot of the demographic is the residents in the neighborhood.”

He adds that, as the dining scene continues to thrive in Baltimore County and other surrounding areas, some county dwellers aren’t willing to make the trip into the city. Fracassetti has had similar experiences, adding that the negative perception of the city has deterred visitors from strolling around Little Italy.

“We’ve seen a difference in foot traffic,” she says. “Our neighborhood is definitely one of the safest, but in Baltimore as a whole, when one community is suffering, we all suffer. We all take that on. We really need to pull together as a city and start to turn the tide here.”

Fracasetti stresses the importance of making neighborhoods pedestrian friendly—something that she says will, in turn, drive foot traffic to restaurants and other small businesses.

“It’s really important to go outside and sit on the steps, which is what I was raised doing,” she says. “We all have to be out and about embracing our city and going out into the neighborhoods. That’s vital in order for us to move beyond this.”