At hip beer garden and wine den Fadensonnen in Old Goucher, words and wine collide to bring local poetry lovers a “Hidden Palace.” The series—which takes place on the first Wednesday of the month and is organized by writers Ashleigh Phillips, Joseph Grantham, and the staff at Remington’s Greedy Reads bookstore—gathers writers in the upstairs tavern to share their poems and other compositions of all genres. 

“No matter who finds ‘Hidden Palace,’ as soon as the writer starts reading, everyone in the room is ready to listen,” Phillips says. “It never gets old.”

The winner of the 2019 C. Michael Curtis Short Story Book Prize for her debut collection Sleepovers, Phillips says that the event took off in the early days of COVID-19, when she was transitioning from working behind the bar at Fadensonnen to managing its natural wine shop, Angels Ate Lemons. When her book came out, Fadensonnen owner Lane Harlan bought a copy for everyone on staff, and later asked Phillips to curate the reading series after pandemic restrictions loosened. 

“It was like Lane read my mind,” Phillips says. “Joseph and I have both hosted reading series in other cities. I had been wanting something like that in Baltimore.”

The very first installment in March 2022 featured local Poet Sylvia Jones, along with North Carolina novelist Mesha Maren and New York City poet Joshua Garcia. In the year since, other participants have traveled from as far as Louisiana and Oregon.  

“Often, it’s the first time many of these writers have been to Baltimore,” says Phillips, a Baltimore transplant from North Carolina. “It’s fun to get to show them around the city that Joseph and I have come to love so much.”

The monthly events are free to the community, and typically feature readings from four different writers and poets. In the digital age, Phillips is pleased to see gathered lit lovers put down their phones and tap into the power of good storytelling.

“Sadly, so many readings these days are rarely about the words,” she says. “So often they’re about networking, who knows who, and who ends up in what picture on Instagram.

“But here in Baltimore, it’s so inspiring to see a packed house of people giving themselves over to the poem and the story. People who come aren’t trying to meet a literary agent or an editor at a magazine, they’re there to really listen. It speaks to what Baltimore’s about.”

CH-CH CHANGES

The Corner Pantry Expands: Since it opened on Valentine’s Day in 2014, many Mt. Washington dwellers have made this breakfast-and-lunch spot a part of their regular routine. Come March, the cafe will offer even more to love by nearly doubling its footprint. The spot will expand into the vacant space next door and add an additional 1,150 square feet. With more room to breathe, husband-and-wife owners Neill and Emily Howell plan to add a second counter for faster service, optional private dining and meeting space, and an expanded kitchen that will allow them to amp up catering. Plus, there will be more opportunities to host events and cooking classes for customers.

“Since we opened nearly six years ago, we have been able to produce some really incredible food out of a 400 square-foot kitchen,” Neill said in a statement. “Our business has evolved based on the feedback and needs from our customers, and we know expanded seating and offerings are what we can add at this point in our journey.” The owners plan to remain open for most of the construction period, which will begin in January.

Cosima Brings Names New Executive Chef: There’s been a slight shift in the kitchen operations at this Southern Italian destination along the Jones Falls in Hampden. Longtime chef de cuisine Jonathan Hicks was recently promoted to executive chef. But, rest assured—Baltimore’s own culinary queen Donna Crivello isn’t going anywhere. She’s stepped into the role of concept director at Cosima, where she will continue the restaurant’s monthly cooking classes, add tutorials for children on the weekends, and oversee private events. “As the granddaughter of Cosima and daughter of a Neapolitan mother, I absolutely love the warmth of Southern Italian hospitality,” Crivello said in a statement. “Those ideals are at the root of the restaurant, and I’m excited to be able to maintain and expand them.”

Bird in Hand Adds Bar Program: Since opening near the Johns Hopkins University campus three years ago, students and neighbors have relied on this collaborative spot—from the teams behind the Ivy Bookshop and Woodberry Kitchen—for a strong latte, espresso, or pastry. Last month, the cafe added to its offerings by launching “Bird Bar,” a collection of wine, beer, and cider to pair with the food menu. In keeping with Bird in Hand’s hyper-local philosophy, the list features Baltimore purveyors including Peabody Heights, Union Craft, and Oliver Brewing Company.

OPEN

Ropewalk Tavern: For nearly six months, Federal Hill revelers have missed the strong drinks and lively piano bar at this neighborhood staple. The McFaul family—who also runs three Ropewalk locations on the Eastern Shore—closed their flagship in July to make some fun upgrades in honor of the bar’s 25th anniversary year. And at the grand reopening party earlier this week, the team unveiled refreshed bars, new arcade games like Skee Ball and basketball shoot-outs, and a bowling alley upstairs. Swing by to play some of the new games, shoot a round of pool, and sip one of Ropewalk’s 150 featured beers.

COMING SOON

Angels Ate Lemons: The weekend before Christmas, Socle—the Old Goucher complex that houses Larder, Sophomore Coffee, and beer garden and natural wine bar Fadensonnen—will welcome yet another attraction. This new weekend concept invites guests to taste some of the worldly wines from Fadensonnen’s storage room in a daytime setting. Named after a line in an Etel Adnan poem, the experience is meant to foster “deep conversation and togetherness,” according to a message posted to Instagram. Angels Ate Lemons marks yet another innovative bar program from Lane Harlan, who also oversees Clavel and W.C. Harlan nearby in Remington.

NiHao Baltimore: We’ve been keeping tabs on this Baltimore expansion from culinary icon Peter Chang, who began his career as a chef at the Chinese Embassy in Washington, D.C. He has built an empire serving Sichuan specialties at strip-mall restaurants throughout the DMV, as well as at his fine-dining spot Q by Peter Chang in Bethesda. Earlier this year, word spread that the chef and his family planned to take over the former Fork & Wrench space in Canton. Though the restaurant isn’t slated to open until February 2020, the family was given a warm welcome last weekend when they hosted a pop-up at Artifact Coffee—giving diners a sneak peek at what the menu might look like when NiHao Baltimore officially opens.

Tofu skin salad and Sichuan pickled baked rockfish were among the featured dishes from Peter, his wife, pastry chef Lisa Chang, and chef Pichet Ong. (Ong is the James Beard award-nominated chef behind Brothers and Sisters located inside The Line Hotel in D.C., which also houses Artifact sister-spot, A Rake’s Progress.) Stay tuned for more details on NiHao’s highly anticipated grand opening in 2020.

EAT

Oct. 20: World Food Festival: Mera x Fadensonnen

Fadensonnen, 3 W. 23rd St. 5-9 p.m. Free.

On a snowy night last January, chef Iman Alshehab—co-founder of Mera Kitchen Collective, a co-op that empowers refugees to tap into their culinary heritage—cooked and served shawarma out of a food truck for the first time while parked at Fadensonnen. That evening, crowds of people came out to the beer garden and natural wine bar to sample her food, and since then, Mera’s chefs have hosted rotating pop-ups at the popular Old Goucher spot. This Sunday, chefs Iman, Emilienne, Anna, and Mona will come together to prepare a meal in Fadensonnen’s courtyard, featuring two new dishes from each chef. Don’t miss the chance to try new authentic eats inspired by cuisines from across the world, including dishes like Syrian lamb kibbeh, Salvadoran chicken soup, and lemon tahini shrimp.

DRINK

Oct. 19: OktoBEARfest

The Maryland Zoo, 1 Safari Pl. 12-5 p.m. $29-69.

The Maryland Zoo is known for its wide variety of furry, slimy, and flying friends, but we also love it for its boozy fundraisers that make it (a little too) easy to support the local institution. This fall-inspired beer festival offers unlimited samplings of more than 50 seasonal brews, along with tons of eats, wares by area artisans, and the chance to get up close and personal with a few of the animals.

SEE

Oct. 18-19: The Rocky Horror Picture Show

Creative Alliance, 3134 Eastern Ave. 7:30 & 10:30 p.m. $12-15.

We’re already shivering with antici…pation for this interactive screening of the weird and wild cult classic at Creative Alliance. Tighten your garters for a night filled with the traditional movie callbacks and costume contests, as well as special burlesque, drag, and tap performances by beloved local drag queens Betty O’Hellno, Venus Fastrada, and Baby. Come up to the Highlandtown lab and see what’s on the slab during this Halloween tradition that’s sure to leave you wanting more, more, more.

HEAR

Oct. 19: Off the Cuff: Brahms Symphony No. 4

Joesph Meyerhoff Symphony Hall, 1212 Cathedral St. 7-9 p.m. $25-80.

It’s only been a few weeks since the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra returned to the Meyerhoff after three months of tension between the symphony’s management and musicians over contract disputes, and this Saturday’s performance of Brahms’ Fourth Symphony is a fitting nod to both the past and the future of the orchestra. After watching world-renowned conductor Marin Alsop lead the musicians through this 20th century masterpiece, stick around to sip on brews by Peabody Heights, snack on eats by Midnite Confection’s Cupcakery and Noona’s, and listen to live music by local artist Brooks Long as you talk with fellow music-lovers about the evening’s performances.

DO

Oct. 19: Baltimore Running Festival

Paca & Camden Sts. 8 a.m. $60-280.

One thing that we love about citywide festivals is there’s usually something for everyone, and the Baltimore Running Festival is the perfect example. Since this event features five different events ranging from an all-ages 5K to the BaltiMORON-a-thon, runners of all skill levels can come together and celebrate the beauty of hitting the pavement. There’s still time to register, so secure your spot at the starting line and get ready to show off that crab-shaped finishing medal.

With its shelves stocked with fancy finishing salts, artisanal toothpaste, and hand-crafted herbal cleaning products, Larder feels like a place where you might find Gwyneth Paltrow nibbling on a gluten-free frittata with nettles and edible flowers.

Larder is owned by chef Helena del Pesco, whose chef C.V. includes gigs around the globe in places such as Mexico City, Tel Aviv, and the San Francisco Bay area, where she trimmed chanterelles and made nettle ravioli at Alice Water’s legendary Chez Panisse.

Del Pesco opened Larder after befriending Lane Harlan of Clavel fame. Harlan, ever the sorceress, excels at taking properties in need of some TLC and making magic of them. This time around, she had the vision to transform a dilapidated block between Maryland and Charles Streets to make way for three independently owned businesses, of which Larder (sharing a courtyard with Harlan’s new natural wine bar/tap room Fadensonnen) is one.

At Larder, you’ll find a lunch menu rife with farm-grown produce, including house-made relishes and kimchis, as well as scratch-made gluten-free pastries. The menu rotates weekly, but for all of the offerings, the focus is on “food that tastes good, feels good, and does good,” according to the menu’s website.

If, indeed, we are what we eat, we’re in good hands here—all ingredients were recently picked, plucked, or sourced from farm or field. For Del Pesco, who holds a graduate degree in fine arts from Berkley, presentation is paramount, and everything— from the blond wood walls to the not-too-sour house kombucha—is meticulously curated and crafted.

The menu is concise, yet broad enough without feeling limited, thanks to the opportunities for customizing vegetarian dishes with cheese, lamb, or beef. On my visit, a too-pretty-to-eat mushroom and pesto pasta arrived in a delicate blue-and-white striped bowl filled with brown rice pasta, tossed with a mix of cremini, shitake, and oyster mushrooms, and enlivened with fresh dill and walnut pesto.

In the bowl of Beans, Greens & Grains, the individual elements, including locally grown Hmong sticky rice, black beans, Swiss chard, kale, and grilled radicchio (and sheep’s milk, which we added on), worked in harmony, though some acid to boost the brightness of the vegetables would have been appreciated.

Another item, a simple bowl of tomato soup with sprigs of dill flower floating in delicate broth, was the essence of summer. The soup was accompanied by a diminutive—and delicious—grilled cheese served on whole-grain bread sourced from the new Motzi Bread, owned by Russell Trimmer, the former lead baker of Woodberry Kitchen.

Know before you go that Del Pesco takes more of a quality over quantity approach and portions tend to be on the smaller side, though the price point, an average of $9 per, allows you to order an additional plate or side without breaking the bank.

“Some people complain about our portion size,” admits Del Pesco, “but with food this nutrient-dense, I ask them, ‘Are you still hungry or do you feel satisfied?’”

On our trip to Larder, two of three of us felt the latter. Even so, we decided to sample the spicy-sweet strawberry tart. In addition to being delicious, its ginger-vinegar curd seemed practically detoxifying, even good for the gut. Gywneth would approve.

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›› LARDER 3 W. 23rd St., 410-982-6246, Tues.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

OPEN

Gangster Vegan Organics: A franchise of Gangster Vegan Organics will open in Cross Street Market on August 23. The menu will include items that are organic, unprocessed, raw, soy, and gluten-free. The spot is owned by husband-wife duo, James and Taneea Yarborough. Taneea is a survivor of ovarian cancer who switched to a plant-based diet as part of her wellness regime.

FOOD NEWS

Ekiben Pop-Up at Fadensonnen: Steve Chu and his business partner Ephrem Abibe at Ekiben are launching a new Taiwanese noodle bar pop-up at Lane Harlan’s Fadensonnen in Old Goucher every Wednesday, for the next six weeks. The new project is called Ojichan, which means grandad in Japanese. Look for handmade wheat noodles with ground pork, scallions, and soy egg. The noodles are served cold to retain their bouncy texture and served with a warm broth. “Ephrem and I had a hankering for the super bouncy noodles we had in Taiwan, but couldn’t find in America, so we decided to make them,” said Chu on his Instagram page. The announcement of the pop-up led one Instagrammer to comment, “You guys are public servants.”

New Beer Garden: A beer garden is planned for the 108-year-old American Ice Building at 2100 West Franklin Street in West Baltimore. The space will include an events area and art hub under a proposed $18.7 million project, according to the Baltimore Business Journal. “It is a diamond in the rough,” Washington D.C. developer Ilay Alter recently told the BBJ. Alter has partnered with local developer Bill Struever who has rehabbed many area industrial sites including the Woodberry-Hampden area of Baltimore, where Woodberry Kitchen is now located. Alter opened a similar such space the Dacha Beer Garden on a vacant lot in D.C.’s Adams Morgan neighborhood in 2013.

Tapas Teatro: The beloved tapas spot in Station North is undergoing a renovation. A new bar area will create more space for a communal table, larger parties, and a new look.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/25: La Cuchara Farm Dinner with the Maryland Farmers Market Association and Hex Ferments

La Cuchara is hosting a farmer’s market dinner in conjunction with the Maryland Farmers Market Association and Hex Ferments on Sunday, from 5-8 p.m. Dinner will include a map of the Saturday and Sunday Baltimore farmers markets showing where some of the ingredients for the meal are sourced from. Hex Ferments will provide cocktail pairings and a portion of proceeds will support the Maryland Market Money program, which provides matching dollars to low-income families who use their benefit at area farmers markets.

7/25: Col Bol Pop-Up at Grind House Juice Bar

Chef Carleen Goodridge of Le Monade will host a pop up called Col Bol, which means “cold bowl.” The event will take place this Sunday at 11 a.m. at Grind House Juice Bar on Saint Paul’s Street. Carleen is honoring her Liberian heritage with dishes like eggplant stew and cassava leaf and plantain porridge.

7/29: Chez Hugo Collaborates with Sacré Sucré

Chez Hugo Bistro will collaborate with Sacré Sucré pastry studio for a six-course tasting menu with all things sweet and savory. Each kitchen will present three courses. Look for dishes such as a blackberry crisp tuile with buckwheat cream, candied beets, and preserved summer fruit and fromage blanc and corn cheesecake with cornbread crumbs, pepper jam, fermented honey, and glazed fresh corn. The cost of the tasting menu is $50. The event runs from 7-9 p.m.

Happy Birthday to You!

Area restaurants celebrate big numbers.

City Café turns 25 on Sept. 4.

The Helmand turns 30 this fall.

Mt. Washington Tavern kicks off its 40 years in business celebration this November.

NEWS

Rooster & Hen Moving to Cross Street Market: Just when we thought Cross Street Market couldn’t get any more enticing, the newly renovated food hub recently announced that Catonsville grocery Rooster & Hen will be opening a “market within the market” this fall. Owners Joseph McRedmond and Allison Smith will close their Frederick Road favorite in September and head to Federal Hill to get the new 1,800-square-foot stall up and running. Since 2016, the owners have peddled local produce, featured items from small-batch makers, hosted area pop-ups, and even opened the store up for community events. That mission will continue in the new space—which will offer flowers, pantry staples, frozen comestibles, prepared foods, fresh fruits and veggies, meal prep kits, and a full kitchen for hosting pop-ups and cooking classes. “The Federal Hill community holds a special place in our hearts and has been the setting for some of our fondest memories,” the owners said in a statement. “Becoming a part of the historic legacy is an honor.”

Maximón Releases Patio Renderings: It seems like the wheels never stop turning for Atlas Restaurant Group—the team behind Harbor East hotspots Ouzo Bay, Loch Bar, Azumi, and Bygone. Next up is Latin American-inspired restaurant Maximón, which is expected to open this fall in the former home of Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore. Atlas recently unveiled renderings for the restaurant’s Spanish-style courtyard executed by local designer Patrick Sutton. The plans for the promenade include glowing purple lighting, lush greenery, lounge furniture, and an oval-shaped bar overlooking the harbor. Stay tuned for more details.

Roggenart Closes Temporarily: Many Mt. Washington locals have made stopping into this European pastry palace a part of their morning routine for the past two years. But recently, the cafe—which was nearing the end of its lease—closed temporarily while the team prepares to open a new location at the yet-to-open Whitehall Food Market in Hampden this fall. Though a reopening date hasn’t been solidified as of yet, here’s hoping it’s only a matter of weeks before the Mt. Washington shop starts cranking out its famous croissants and pain aux chocolat once again.

Wet City Lauded by Bon Appétit: Last week, we were pleased to see a local name featured in Bon Appétit magazine’s recurring column “Highly Recommend,” in which editors’ share their favorite things. The piece was dedicated to the “Spaghett” cocktail at Wet City in Mt. Vernon. “This cocktail has become my official drink of the summer,” editor Alex Delany wrote about the $5 happy hour drink that combines Miller High Life, Aperol, and lemon juice. “This is on deck for the rest of August and most of September for me. Long live Baltimore. Long live summer. And long live the Spaghett.” We couldn’t agree more.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

8/16: Jade Pop-Up at Fadensonnen
Johns Hopkins biomedical engineering student Jesse Wu, who started his own pop-up inside his dorm room last year, is bringing his Chinese-American cuisine to Fadensonnen in Old Goucher. Grab an order of Wu’s signature Hunan rice noodles, and stick around to sip Fadensonnen’s natural wines, beers, and sake throughout the night.

8/16-9/1: Maryland Vegan Restaurant Week
As Baltimore Restaurant Week comes to a close (many participants have extended their menus through Sunday, August 18) another dining-out promotion is just ramping up. Spots all over the state are rolling out dairy-free dishes in honor of Maryland Vegan Restaurant Week. Of course, staple vegan eateries including Golden West Cafe, L’Eau de Vie Organic Brasserie, Great Sage, and Stall 11 will be putting out their best plates. But you can also enjoy specialty dishes at restaurants like Wicked Sisters, La Scala, Little Havana, and Sobo Cafe. An array of special events throughout the week will kick off with a vegan baked goodspop-up at The Land of Kush on August 19.

SHUT

Bill Bateman’s Bistro Reisterstown: Baltimore County locals are still reeling from the loss of the Bill Bateman’s location on the Towson University campus, which closed for good last year. Now, yet another one of the homegrown pub’s outposts is shutting its doors. After 21 years, the Reisterstown mainstay in the Chartley Shopping Center will close for good on Sunday, August 18. “It has truly been a pleasure being a part of this ever-growing and always-friendly neighborhood,” management wrote in a post to Facebook announcing the closure. This weekend, regulars will gather for one last pint, crab pretzel, and order of wings around the bar at the community hangout. The Severna Park, Parkville, and Rosedale iterations of the local sports bar are still going strong.

When chef Helena del Pesco, owner of the new Larder in Old Goucher, arrived here after years of living in the San Francisco Bay area, she was surprised by the farms she found. “I was expecting it to be a challenge coming from a place where there’s such a big scene around small organic farms, but there are a lot more small farms here than I expected,” she says.

In trading the San Francisco Bay for the Chesapeake Bay, del Pesco has found new ways to challenge herself. “There’s not as much abundance year-round and you have to find ways to preserve things,” she says. “But those constraints can bring out more creativity and that’s been really fun.”

I know you came from California a few years ago. What brought you to Baltimore?
My husband and I moved here three years ago from San Francisco after traveling for a year. We wanted to be closer to his family—they are in Delaware. My first ever trip to Baltimore was to go to an event that Hex Ferments was hosting. Owner Meaghan and I had gone to art school together in Minneapolis and I started working at Hex while living in Northern Maryland and commuting down to Baltimore. I fell in love with Baltimore and the food scene here. We did a pop up before we even moved here, and it sold out within 24 hours.

I know that Lane Harlan approached you about the idea of sharing a courtyard when she opened Fadensonnen.
Lane and I really clicked in terms of our sensibility and our interests. We have spent a lot of time in Oaxaca and Mexico City, and I could tell that she was very passionate about mezcal and took it seriously. She also has a poetry background, so we both have this crossover between food and art.

Originally, I was going to potentially be the chef for the wine bar at Fadensonnen, but when she realized that there was going to be additional space on the property, she approached me and Kris [Fulton, the owner of Sophomore Coffee]. We’re all collaborators now. We make the pâtes and pickles and marmalades for Fadensonnen and we make the pastries for Sophomore Coffee.

How did you become a chef?
I have a background in art. I went to undergrad at the Minneapolis College of Art and Design and have a graduate degree from UC Berkley for fine art. I became a chef because I was already working with food as part of performance events and as an artist, I was making ceramics and textiles and objects incorporated into those meals. My thesis project led up to 8- to 10-year-olds running a restaurant for a day. They made all of the plates and silverware and ceramics and made menus out of silkscreen. And they made ravioli with the fillings you’d expect from 8- to 10-year-olds. My favorite was a burrito ravioli.

So how did you go from an artist’s studio to restaurants?
I had worked in restaurants for a very long time–more front of the house as a server. I’ve always loved food and worked for really fantastic chefs in San Francisco, who shared not only their techniques but their sourcing of ingredients and working closely with farmers. I’ve always loved plants. I garden. I have some background in making folk medicine from plants. As an artist, I felt limited with what I could do in the space of a gallery or a museum—there were lots of restrictions in terms of bringing living things and food into those spaces.

I love the creative process of cooking for others. It’s very immediate and ephemeral. You make it—and then it’s gone. That appeals to me and also it appeals to me in terms of a footprint. In art school, I’d produce all of this stuff. Maybe someone buys it, or it goes into a storage unit or gets throw away. The object can feel like a burden. With cooking, I love how immediate it is.

What was it like to work at the famed Chez Panisse?
I did work at Chez Panisse as a stage. It was more like a brief stint. My good friend Jerome Waag was the head chef there. The people who work in that kitchen are very intuitive, very elegant. It’s obvious that they know the ingredients really well and treat the ingredients with so much respect and do things minimally to make those things shine. I’ve worked in more formal kitchens like Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain. The kitchen is very theatrical, very elaborate like paper thin layers of potatoes in vegetable dyes. There’s so much process and it’s incredible.

Has this informed your farm-to-table leaning Larder?
I’m more drawn to the Chez Panisse style—showing off what the plant has to offer. I also worked [in the San Francisco area] at Camino and Bar Agricole. Those two places had a strong farm-to-table ethos that became how I thought about food, how I think about seasons and getting to know what a farmer’s strengths are and building a menu and the products that you know are available. I’m not a hard-core locavore. I get my citrus from California and olive oil from Italy, but it’s all in the service of preparing a menu that is based on what’s here.

Did you do any R&D before opening Larder?
I spent the first two years getting to know the local farms and doing farm visits. Getting to know what other people in the area are doing and how could we fill a need. I think lunch is challenging for a farm-to-table restaurant. It’s challenging to keep the prices low enough.

Has anything about the food scene here surprised you?
Finding Clavel and just realizing that there’s really good Mexican food to be had in Baltimore was a great surprise. At one point, good Mexican food on the East Coast was pretty tough to find. I’ve been really impressed with how supportive the food scene is—how supportive people are of each other, of sharing resources and giving advice. One thing I miss the most in San Francisco is some of the Asian flavors, the Thai, the Japanese—there’s not as much variety with that.

Any menu items you want to highlight?
The frittata is on the menu to keep things consistent, but it will change with the season. We can change the flavor profile with the seasons. It’s a comfort food that won’t put you to sleep easily. We started out doing nettles in the beginning that’s a lovely spring delicacy super good for you. The chicken salad is very approachable, but it’s made with tahini instead of mayonnaise. The menu is approachable menu with little twist that make it more interesting or delicious.

What’s your elevator pitch for people coming to visit Larder?
We’re trying to provide the overall element of food being delicious and also that you leave feeling good, not weighed down, that it feels good in the body and that the space is pleasant, so that it’s a total experience and service, of course, adds to that and it all feels very personal.

When Carleen Goodridge moved to Baltimore from Texas nearly three years ago, she felt at home almost instantly. The chef relocated here just before Thanksgiving in 2016, and by the first week of December, she had already booked a pop-up for her craft beverage company Le Monade.

“The name comes from the way my youngest, who’s now 7, used to ask me for lemonade,” says Goodridge, a mom of four who sells her line of small-batch drink mixers, blends, and syrups routinely at the Baltimore Farmers’ Market under the JFX. “He would say, ‘Mama can I have some ’monade?’”

Not only did Goodridge find her niche in the startup scene, but she also felt supported by the city’s vibrant community of female chefs of color: “I never realized how much of a difference it really made to see other people who look like you out there doing it,” she says. “Even if it’s their own path, you’re walking along that same road together. So we’re able to be like, ‘Hey girl, you got this.’”

Though establishing a home for Le Monade has been her main focus, there’s another passion project that Goodridge has had brewing for years. Now, she feels like it’s the right time to launch Cōl Bōl, a culinary tribute to her Liberian heritage whose name translates to “cold bowl.”

“The best way I can describe it is like when you make spaghetti and then the next day the sauce tastes even better,” she explains. “Liberians have this thing where we say, ‘Oh what are you eating today?’ And we get excited to say, ‘I’m about to have cōl bōl.’ It’s a nostalgic feeling. I’m not serving leftover food, but now that it’s now gotten cold those chemicals have created new flavors. And when you heat it up there’s a new caramelization happening.”

Scheduled to debut with a pop-up at Fadensonnen on June 27, Cōl Bōl will feature authentic delicacies like pepper soup, nut butter bisque with seared shrimp, tried-and-true Liberian jollof rice, and a deconstructed dish that Goodridge is calling, “Sundei.” Inspired by a meal her grandmother used to make, the plate will incorporate cornbread croquettes with chicken gravy, cassava, plantains, and lots of spices.

“Growing up, no matter what was going on, our ‘oma’ would prepare that on Sundays,” she says. “We would have it in the morning and that’s what we would eat throughout the day before the big dinner was ready.”

Goodridge’s heritage played a huge role in her decision to make cooking a career. After serving in the Army National Guard for 12 years—and later working federal and corporate jobs—her passion for food and fellowship ultimately led her to open a food truck and catering business in Texas.

With Cōl Bōl, the chef sees an opportunity to share her story through Liberian food culture. Interestingly, she has a familial connection to Harriet Tubman, whose husband, John, was a great uncle on her maternal side. After being freed from slavery, her ancestors went to colonize Liberia. Goodridge’s great grandfather, former Liberian president William V.S. Tubman, ended up being the first African head of state to be invited to the White House.

“It’s about sharing this story of food, culture, and the connection we have here in the United States—even in Baltimore, where slaves were literally shipped right out of Fells Point,” she says. “It’s an opportunity to bring people together and educate them, especially because Liberia is still struggling. We fought two civil wars and had the ebola outbreak. We’re trying to get back together, and there’s such beauty and history there.”

As Goodridge moves forward with Cōl Bōl, and continues to expand Le Monade, she says she’s constantly thinking about how to better the community that welcomed her with open arms—whether that means expanding her team or cultivating collaborations with other small businesses.

“What I love about Baltimore is that I can really be a part of my community,” she says. “As transplants coming here, it’s absolutely contagious, and you want to be involved.”

OPEN

Larder: Socle, the Old Goucher food-and-drink complex from Clavel owners Lane Harlan and Matthew Pierce, is officially operating in full swing now that its final concept, Larder, has opened its doors. Joining Harlan’s natural wine bar Fadensonnen and celebrated coffee shop Sophomore Coffee in the renovated carriage house on Maryland Avenue, Larder will specialize in hyper-local dishes prepared by chef Helena del Pesco. Area produce—as well as many ingredients fermented in house—will show up in colorful dishes such as crunchy snap pea and asparagus salad and fig-leaf infused yogurt pudding with roasted peaches. While stopping by for lunch or an early dinner (normal hours will be 11 a.m.-7 p.m.), guests will also be able to peruse shelves stocked with artisan pantry goods from local purveyors like Hex Ferments and Keepwell Vinegar, and some from businesses as far as Oaxaca and San Francisco. 2223 Maryland Ave. 410-982-6246

COMING SOON

Old Boy: A grand opening party for Phil Han’s newest concepts inside Broadway Market has been set for Wednesday, May 15. All of the stalls inside the recently renovatedFells Point institution have been celebrating staggered grand openings since March. Veteran vendors Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, Sophia’s Place, and Sal’s Seafood were the first to premiere, followed by newbie Thai Street. Now, the concepts from Han of Dooby’s are ready to make their debut.

Among them is Old Boy, an authentic Korean eatery whose kitchen will be headed up by Irvin Seo of the popular Haenyo pop-up. In addition, Han’s team will operate a centerpiece bar called Fat Tiger, which is open now serving an all-day menu of coffee, beer, wine, and cocktails. The bar team will also oversee El Tigre—a tiki-inspired play on the Fat Tiger concept that will expand bar service outside to the market’s patio. At the grand opening party, guests will enjoy a soju ice luge at Old Boy, complimentary welcome punch at Fat Tiger, and plenty of tiki drinks from El Tigre outside. 1640 Aliceanna St.

Rock & Toss Crab House: The developers at Greenberg Gibbons are adding yet another eatery to Foundry Row in Owings Mills this summer. The mixed-use development already boasts plenty of fast-casual destinations including Nalley Fresh, Sunset Raw Juice Bar, Mission BBQ, and Zoë’s Kitchen, and now, this Bowie-based seafood spot is also joining the lineup. The 3,060-square-foot restaurant will offer shrimp, baby clams, green mussels, crawfish, and, of course, blue crabs. The entrees arrive covered in signature cajun, lemon pepper, or garlic-butter seasonings. 10100 Reisterstown Rd.

Whole Foods Towson: In other development news, Greenberg Gibbons and Caves Valley Partners have inked a deal with Whole Foods to be the anchor tenant in the forthcoming Towson Row project on the corner of York Road and Towsontown Boulevard. Whole Foods was announced as a tenant years ago, but later pulled out of the ongoing project. Now, the grocery chain is back on board with plans for two levels of parking, a mezzanine space, and an outdoor dining terrace. Construction on the store is expected to begin later this year and it will likely open in late 2021. When complete, the five-acre development will also include 75,000 square feet of retail and residential space, student housing units, luxury apartments, and a 220-room hotel. York Rd. & Towsontown Blvd., Towson.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/11: Diamondback Brewing Mole Stout Release
This weekend, the team from Diamondback Brewing will officially release its new bourbon barrel-aged mole stout, Tal Uno—a special collaboration with local chocolate expert Jinji Fraser of Pure Chocolate by Jinji. The 9-percent ABV beer was aged in Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels for 14 months before being infused with Jinji’s ingredients to produce notes of vanilla, spicy pepper, and dark chocolate. Swing by the South Baltimore brewery from 12-7 p.m. on Saturday to sample the release while mingling with brewers who will be on hand to discuss the yearlong process. There will also be live music by funky-folk band Gene & Friends and special Mexican pizzas fired up in the brewery’s new in-house kitchen. 1215 E. Fort Ave. 443-388-9626

SHUT

Atelier Culinaire: This Little Italy fine-dining den closed its doors late last month. Staffed by culinary students at Stratford University, the restaurant was known as a launchpad for young chefs transitioning into the industry. Regulars at the white tablecloth spot enjoyed classics like the roasted rack of lamb, beef bourguignon, and ginger-crusted salmon. There’s no word yet on what will become of the Stiles street space, which is equipped with a built-in bar and mezzanine level. 806 Stiles St.

Gnocco: After three years in Highlandtown, Gnocco will open for its final night of service this Saturday, May 11. The decision comes as Chef Brian Lavin prepares for a move to the West Coast. Throughout its run, the cozy Spanish and French-influenced neighborhood spot became known for its antipasti, comforting pastas, and one of the best Negronis on this side of the pond. 3734 Fleet St.

Prime Corner: Sadly, the days are also numbered for Hampden’s colorful bodega on the corner of 34th Street and Chestnut Avenue. Owner Tess Russell took to social media last week to announce that the she would be closing the store at the end of the month. “The economics of a grocery are super hard,” Russell recently told the Baltimore Business Journal. “Some months we did great, others were tougher.” In the eight months since it opened, the store became known for its artisan grocery items and pantry products from the likes of Taharka Bros., City Seeds, Donut Alliance, and The Lunchbox Lady. Here’s hoping another local operator will reactivate the neighborhood gathering space, which formerly operated as kid-friendly Play Cafe before Russell took over. 3400 Chestnut Ave.

To call this project a labor of of love might be an understatement. Five years ago, before Clavel was even a glimmer in their eye, the husband-and-wife team of Lane Harlan and Matthew Pierce wanted to open a small-scale beer garden in Baltimore.

The pieces didn’t quite come together, and they moved on—such is life. But that vision remained and, in fact, only grew into what is now a multipurpose complex in Old Goucher that will soon consist of three small businesses and an artist residency.

The first of those businesses is Fadensonnen (3 W. 23rd St.). Located in a former two-story carriage house, it’s not only a beer garden but a natural wine and sake bar. Mirroring the mood of Clavel, the 148-seat courtyard is minimalist with a wooden overhang, string lights, and picnic tables. The beer garden menu features a sustainable keg program pouring small-batch selections from Union Craft Brewing, Brooklyn Kura, Old Westminster Winery, and Hex Ferments.

In case you were wondering (like many are), “Fadensonnen” is the title of a German poem published in 1968 by Paul Celan and translates into English as “threadsuns,” which gives a nod to both the style of the beer garden and its open-air concept.

Ascend the carriage house stairs and you’ll find a cozy, 35-seat wine bar complete with original exposed ceiling beams, a white-brick fireplace, and charred Japanese wood throughout. Details aren’t overlooked here, and nice touches include the complimentary hot tea upon arrival and the bar and snacks from Larder (an upcoming business in the complex) such as pork pâté, chocolate, and charcuterie plates.

Things can get really funky, literally, as you taste your way through natural wines and unpasteurized sake. Take the sake from Fukushima, Japan, that was smooth and creamy and had hints of sweet cherry. Or the apricot-colored wine from the country of Georgia that was super earthy and peachy and redefined what we thought wine could taste like.

And that’s the magic of all of Harlan and Pierce’s projects—they don’t just nourish us, they make us think. After paying our bill, we walked away not only with the warm buzz of wine and sake humming in our heads, but with a new perspective on how a bar should be: edifying yet comfortable.

COMING SOON

Peter Chang Restaurant: Get pumped, “Changians.” Though details have yet to be announced, devoted fans of cult icon Peter Chang will be happy to hear that the chef’s family plans to open an Asian restaurant in the space that was previously Fork & Wrench in Canton. A former chef at the Chinese Embassy in Washington, D.C., Chang started his empire by opening strip-mall restaurants in towns throughout Virginia that weren’t particularly known for their Asian cuisine. While Baltimore boasts some stellar global eats, locals have long been waiting for an authentic Chinese food spot to open within city limits. Here’s hoping we’re next on Chang’s list of places to introduce to his Sichuan specialties—which include dry-fried eggplant, crispy pork belly, and Peking duck. 2322 Boston St.

OPEN

Lyfe Cafe: Experts say that late-January is typically the time when New Year’s resolutions start to go off course. But this new Towson eatery is making it easy for diners to prioritize healthy eating. Local nutritionist and personal trainer Penny Seabolt opened Lyfe Cafe inside The Shops at Kenilworth earlier this week, offering everything from protein shakes and wellness shots to vegan fare and meal-prep services. In addition to the lengthy list of breakfast, lunch, and dinner dishes, the daily menu features a “Food for Mood” section with suggestions for specific health concerns. Need a B-12 boost? Try the veggie omelet with egg whites, spinach, and red pepper. For a healthy heart, Seabolt recommends the Summer Salad with grilled chicken, strawberries, and balsamic. The new eatery joins old standbys Atwater’s and Italian Gardens at the shopping destination, which also plans to welcome Felipe’s Mexican Taqueria next year. 800 Kenilworth Drive. Ste. 800, Towson. 410-842-1050

NEWS

The Elephant Building for Sale: Although co-owners Steven and Linda Rivelis and Mallory Staley assure that this fine-dining destination is in it for the long haul, they recently decided to put the historic building that houses the restaurant up for sale. In an open letter sent to diners via email earlier this week, the owners explained their struggles to secure a bank loan to pay back investors who helped fund the multi-million dollar renovation of the Mt. Vernon mansion. “Without even looking at our financials, nine banks told us that they will not make a loan for a restaurant, especially in Baltimore City,” the owners write. “Unfortunately, we have run out of time. After two years, our friends and family who loaned us the gap funds deserve to be paid back.” The iconic North Charles Street property is currently listed at $2.9 million. Although it will soon have a new landlord, The Elephant’s elegant dining rooms, craft cocktails, and worldly cuisine are here to stay. 924 N. Charles St. 443-447-7878

So Long, Esskay Hot Dogs: Don’t be surprised if you can’t find orange-and-black packages of Esskay hot dogs on your next trip to the grocery store. Virginia-based Smithfield Foods recently made the tough decision to discontinue the fan-favorite franks in an effort to reduce expenses and competition with its other products. As a result, Esskay will also soon disappear from Camden Yards. “The Orioles have always offered a variety of hot dogs, including Kosher options, at Camden Yards, and there are many brands that are expressing strong interest in bringing their product to the ballpark,” Orioles spokesman Greg Bader told The Sun this week. Though summertime cookouts will never taste quite the same, we’re confident that the team will soon find a new brand to spark the same kind of hometown pride. Perhaps the only good news to come of the Esskay loss is that officials say it will not have any effect on the famous Hot Dog Races at Camden Yards.

Baltimore Spirits Company Releases Limited Liquor Line: In the very first collaboration between Baltimore Spirits Company and its Union Collective neighbors Union Craft Brewing, the distillery has created a malty, chocolatey liqueur using fermented wort (extracted liquid) from the brewery’s seasonal Snow Pants Stout. Singularity #1 is the inaugural release in Baltimore Spirits Company’s new “E.B. Smith’s Singularities” line, which is named after co-founder Eli Breitburg-Smith. The liqueur will be available in the tasting room starting this weekend. Other Singularity releases, including a pear brandy, are expected to debut in the coming months. 1700 W. 41st St. Ste. 430. 443-687-9099

EPICUREAN EVENTS

1/25-26: Masarap Filipino Pop-Up at Fadensonnen
If you still haven’t gotten a chance to stop by Fadensonnen—the Old Goucher beer garden from husband-and-wife owners Lane Harlan and Matthew Pierce—this weekend is an ideal opportunity. Not only will the spot offer its local beers, wild ciders, and natural wines, but it will also host chef Rey Eugenio in the food truck out front. Authentic Filipino dishes on deck include a braised pork noodle bowl with fried garlic chips, grilled veggie skewers with Jasmine rice and kimchi cabbage, and a beef-and-potato bowl topped with fermented chili paste ketchup. 3 W. 23rd St. 5-9 p.m.

1/25-26: Harry Potter Pop-Up at Order & Chaos
Key Highway coffee spot Order & Chaos is collaborating with Hampden’s Full Circle Artisan Palace to host a Hogwarts-themed pop-up party this weekend. Fans can enjoy butterbeer lattes while sampling a selection of magical sweets crafted by Full Circle. Among them include doughnuts like the chocolate-glazed “Deathly Hallows,” espresso-sugar covered “Floo Powder,” and cinnamon dusted “Potter Spice.” 1410 Key Highway. 7:30 a.m.-5 p.m.

1/29: Johntay Bedingfield on Chopped
Head to La Food Marketa in Pikesville to watch the restaurant’s own chef Johntay Bedingfield compete on an episode of Food Network’s Chopped. The kitchen will be closing at 8:30 p.m., at which point diners and staff will gather at the bar for drinks and light snacks while cheering on the chef during the episode. 2620 Quarry Lake Drive, Pikesville. 8-10 p.m. 410-415-0606

SHUT

Cafe Andamiro: MICA students were saddened to hear that this cozy Midtown-Belvedere cafe will be shutting its doors for good this weekend. “We appreciate your business and support,” mother-and-daughter owners Ran Yun and Bomin Jeon posted to Facebook earlier this week. “Being able to share food, drinks, and moments with you was special to us.” Since opening in 2016, Cafe Andamiro—meaning “overflow in abundance” in Korean—has been known for its espressos and pastries, as well as Seoul-inspired specialties including noodle bowls, seasonal salads, avocado toasts, and pressed paninis. 241 W. Chase St. 443-453-9314

This isn’t the first time Lane Harlan has been a trailblazer in Baltimore. Back before it was trendy, she and her now-husband Matthew Pierce opened cocktail bar W.C. Harlan in Remington before the thought of ordering Old Fashioneds and Fernet Branca was commonplace. And, of course, a couple of years later, they followed just down the street with Clavel and introduced Baltimore to the world of mezcal and Sinaloan cuisine.

Now, they are making new waves in the nearby neighborhood of Old Goucher with Socle at 2223 Maryland Avenue, a complex that consists of three small businesses and an artist residency. The first of those businesses—and the true baby for Harlan and Pierce—is Fadensonnen, a beer garden and natural wine and sake bar that is opening to the public this Friday.

“Back in 2014, before we ever set our sights on opening Clavel, we started looking at properties in Old Goucher to realize our dream of opening a small-scale beer garden,” Harlan says. “After being unable to find a building with enough outdoor space, we moved on to Clavel and kept the vision of Fadensonnen alive in our minds. Two years later, we found the perfect location—an old carriage house facing an open-air courtyard just two blocks from our other businesses.”

For those curious about the name, Fadensonnen is the title of a German poem published in 1968 by Paul Celan and translates into English as “threadsuns,” which gives a nod to both the style of the beer garden and its open-air concept.

The 148-seat courtyard will include a sustainable keg program pouring wild ciders, natural wines, unpasteurized sake, and beer on draft with selections from Union Craft Brewing, Graft Cider, Old Westminster Winery, and Hex Ferments as well as many wines from around the world. Guests will also be able to access a bottle shop to select wine to enjoy at the bar or take home.

Harlan is particularly excited to introduce locals to the concept of natural wine, which is farmed biodynamically or organically without the use of harsh chemicals in the vineyard.

“The wine is produced without additives following a low interventionist philosophy,” she explains. “Fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts and there is no fining or sterile filtering of the wine resulting in a real ‘living wine.’”

Up the stairs and through the carriage house is an intimate 35-seat wine bar (with original exposed ceiling beams and dark, charred wood throughout) that will specialize in more natural wine and Japanese sake. The menu will rotate frequently to reflect the nature of small-scale sake microbreweries.

Other concepts to look forward to in the Socle complex will be Larder, a cafe from Chef Helena del Pesco, who honed her culinary skills in San Francisco and places like Mexico City and Tel Aviv. She’ll be working closely with local farmers to create seasonal lunch options including hearty snap pea salads and slow-cooked shepherd’s pie.

The third business will be the subterranean Sophomore Coffee, run by Ann Travers Fortune and Kris Fulton (formerly of Lamill Coffee in the Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore). Their menu will focus on coffees roasted by Toby’s Estate in Brooklyn, New York, as well as a selection of teas and light fare.

“We are a creative nexus of people who recognize that the things we consume to nourish ourselves are a key part of our daily rhythm,” Harlan says, “one that pulses with the bright flavors of farm-grown produce, the wild notes of natural wine, and the complexity of meticulously roasted coffee beans.”

For now, just Fadensonnen will open at 3 W. 23rd Street to the public on Friday, with the courtyard staying open until midnight and the upstairs bar closing at 1 a.m.

OPEN

Gypsy’s Truckstaurant: Diners no longer have to track down the Gypsy Queen food truck to sample its signature wraps, gyros, and crab cake-topped French fries. After months of delays, the owners have officially opened their new “truckstaurant” tucked off of Clipper Mill Road in Hampden. The hybrid concept uses a large food truck kitchen outside to prepare the dishes that are served in the 90-seat dining room—which boasts a large bar, strung lights, and vintage decor. There’s also a greenery-filled patio equipped with a Ping Pong table and plenty of outdoor seating. Menu options include staples from the truck, as well as old favorites from the former Helen’s Garden Restaurant that owners Annmarie Langton and Tom Looney operated in Canton for 15 years. Be on the lookout for internationally influenced eats including San Diego-style fish tacos, Persian mango and feta salad, and a Korean kimchi burger. 3515 Clipper Mill Road. 443-869-5602

COMING SOON

Fadensonnen: This fall, Old Goucher will welcome Socle—an innovative food and beverage complex from the team behind W.C. Harlan and Clavel. Aside from housing Sophomore Coffee and farm-to-fork cafe Larder, the revamped old carriage house will also be home to Fadensonnen, a bar featuring draft beers, natural wine, and wild ciders that opens up to a 148-seat open air courtyard. Named after a German poem penned by author Paul Celan in 1968, the biergarten will also boast its own “wine cave” bottle shop and an intimate bar upstairs specializing in all-natural wine and nihonshu (Japanese sake). While the cafe and coffee shop aren’t expected to debut until December, Fadensonnen is readying for a grand opening next month. 2223 Maryland Ave.

Nepenthe Brewing Co.: With a newly painted facade by local artist Kelly Walker of Artstar Baltimore, husband-and-wife team Brian Arnold and Jill Antos—along with partner Brendan Kirlin—are now one step closer to opening their expanded homebrew shop and taproom on Falls Road in Hampden. After their former supply shop in Woodberry’s Meadow Mill complex was flooded twice, the owners decided to move to a larger space on higher ground. The new digs will not only provide retail space for all of Nepenthe’s signature beer-making kits and supplies, but also include a full kitchen, taproom, and on-site brewing facility. A grand opening is slated for this fall. 3626 Falls Rd.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

10/13-14: Oysterfest 12
For two days, East Cross Street in Federal Hill is transforming into an oyster-lover’s paradise with raw bars, buck-a-shuck tasting tents, and plenty of seafood specialties to go around. The 12th annual festival hosted by Ryleigh’s Oyster will feature classic crab cakes, pit beef sandwiches, whole-smoked fish, and, of course, more than 10 varieties of local oysters served raw and grilled. A jam-packed lineup of local bands will provide the soundtrack for the weekend, which will highlight the eighth annual Baltimore Oyster Shucking Championship on Saturday at 3:30 p.m. 36 E. Cross St. 12-7 p.m., $12-40.

10/16: Smoke Turns 3
Hard to believe that it’s been three years since chef Josh White first introduced us to his smoked chicken wings, “Boss Dawg” sandwiches (pulled pork, bacon, slaw, and crispy onions), and catchy odes to his dishes set to the tunes of popular rock songs. This Tuesday, the Cockeysville barbecue joint is celebrating its big birthday in style with an all-day rager. Stop in for specials like $3 coffees and deals on three of the restaurant’s “greatest hits” from its run. 574 Cranbrook Rd., Cockeysville. 410-891-8515

SHUT

Baltimore Soup Co.: The South Baltimore location of this homegrown cafe shuttered its doors unexpectedly last week. A sign posted to the door notified customers that the eatery was “busier than expected and sold out of soup.” But owners David and Lisa Redmond confirmed to SouthBMore.com later in the week that they had closed the shop for good after only nine months. “We had a good run and loved our guests who supported us, but there just weren’t enough to make it work,” they said. Luckily, the Towson location is still going strong, serving the cafe’s daily rotation of scratch-made soups including Maryland crab, chicken pot pie, sweet potato vegetable, and broccoli cheddar. 2 E. Wells St.

The Nickel Taphouse: Mt. Washington diners are already mourning the loss of the famous beef on weck sandwiches at this neighborhood haunt, which officially closed its doors earlier this week. Owner Robbin Haas took to Facebook to confirm the closure, stating that the team had “made the difficult decision to utilize our resources toward our Baltimore sister locations Birroteca and Encantada. Both of these locations offer more space, as well as private party areas.” Since 2013, the Nickel served as a community gathering spot for burgers, raw oysters, and other gastropub fare. “We wish our Mt. Washington neighbors the best of luck and look forward to seeing you at our other locations,” Haas said. There’s no word yet on what will become of the space, which previously housed other restaurant concepts Blue Sage Cafe and Freda’s Kitchen. 1604 Kelly Ave.