When one door closes, another one opens. Such is the case for the Lefenfeld family (including brothers Jake and Ben, as well as Ben’s wife, Amy), who closed their seafood spot Minnow in South Baltimore last week. Just seven days later, they reopened the space as a new Asian street food-inspired eatery called The Hot Dry.

The menu focuses on the Hubei region of Central China, and specifically the city of Wuhan—where “hot dry noodles” made with Sichuan peppercorns are revered. In addition to two types of noodles, featured offerings include scratch-made soup dumplings, pickled vegetables, and chicken with chilis and peppercorns. Minnow chef Sarah Murray is staying on, though noticeable changes include a new mural, additional high-top tables, and a lower price point—with dumplings for as little as $5. “This is the concept I’ve been wanting to do for years,” says Ben, whose family is also the team behind La Cuchara in Woodberry. “This is kind of food that I love and that I grew up eating in Columbia.”

We sat down with the chef to talk more about the inspiration behind the concept, the importance of culinary authenticity, and his love of noodles.

Why did you decide to open up an Asian street food spot?
When I was growing up, Columbia had a lot of chain restaurants and ethnic restaurants—and it was the Asian restaurants that had the best food in town. In particular, I love noodles. When I go to different cities, I look for soup dumplings at the hole-in-the-wall places. As a kid, I loved going to Chinatown in New York and trying out tons of them.

Why did you decide to open The Hot Dry now?
I started doing research for this menu and concept a couple of years ago. I would have opened this instead of Minnow had I been prepared, but I didn’t feel confident in terms of the research I had done and my familiarity I had with the cuisine at that time.

Your chef C.V. includes stints at Asian restaurants after graduating from culinary school. What did you learn from those gigs?
They were both Asian fusion spots—I learned the wok. I learned how to work with ginger and how to toast chili peppers, how to toast garlic and flavor the oil before sautéing it. I learned how to cook eggs in a wok…I was exposed to a lot of beautiful flavors.

Why did you pick this specific region of China to focus on?
I didn’t want to cherry-pick across this massive continent. Instead, I wanted to focus on a specific region to have that North Star direction and spirit for specific dishes, though we are by no means calling this authentic cuisine.

Recently, there’s been a lot of backlash about Caucasian chefs appropriating Asian flavors and opening Asian restaurants. What’s your response to that and is it something you thought about prior to opening?
It’s a double-edged sword to focus on a specific cuisine because the questions that come up are, “Did you grow up there?” and “How long did you train there?”—which are completely fair if it’s within the context of authentic cuisine. But that’s not what we’re going for here. There’s a lot of eloquence on both sides of this debate, but at the end of the day, I think people should be able to cook whatever they like—as long as they have respect for the journey, they are sourcing correctly and developing correct techniques, and they are doing it with respect for the cuisine, I don’t see a conflict. That said, I do plan on traveling to the region within the next few months.

We know that you recently went to Peter Chang’s Mama Chang in Fairfax, VA, to break bread—we mean, eat noodles—with Ekiben owner Steve Chu and Leandro Lagera, co-founder of the Chinatown Collective and Charm City Night Market. What was the purpose of the meal?
I wanted to learn more about the issues involved with this controversy. I learned that we need to be ourselves with this. If you’re cooking food that you love and trying to do due diligence and learn the history of the cuisine, while not calling it authentic, that’s what it comes down to.

Where did the name of the restaurant come from?
Hot dry noodles separate themselves from other noodles in the country in that they’re not served in broth. The noodles are tossed with hot oil and they’re fun because they can be garnished with lots of different ingredients—ours have black and white sesame seeds, cilantro, and pickled cabbage on the side. There’s a secondary reason for the name, as well. The food is hot, and you get that drying sensation from the Sichuan peppercorns.

Tell us about the menu.
We’re doing noodles, alkaline noodles, knife-cut noodles, three types of dumplings, chilled vegetable salads, and other dishes that don’t involve noodles like twice-cooked pork with Pixian chili paste and dry pot chicken with potato, coriander, and cabbage.

Will there be changes to the bar program, as well?
We’ve added some cooling drinks to the program. Our bar program was already pretty fun, but we’ve featured a larger selection of white wines with a higher amount of the residual sugar to work well with the spice. One drink that Jake put on the menu has almond milk as its base. It’s absolutely delicious and cools the burn as you’re eating the spicy food. We also have a couple of large format cocktails for the table. There’s one called, “This Drink Sucks,” its vacuum-infused whiskey with black tea.

What about sourcing?
We’re making our own lye solution for the alkaline noodles. We are importing Pixian chili paste from Pixia and also using imported fermented bean paste. The cabbage, green beans, and cucumbers for the chilled dishes are all from local farms.

OPEN

Bon Fresco: This homegrown coffee-and-carb chain—which has shops scattered everywhere from Columbia to Beltsville—opened its first Baltimore location in the Inner Harbor last week. Dooby’s owner Phil Han, whose father-in-law founded the chain in 2008, is spearheading the new shop between Pratt and Lombard streets. His team will follow Bon Fresco’s recipes, highlighting stuffed sandwiches on house-baked ciabatta rolls. (Standouts include the Tuscan Chicken with grilled veggies and famous London Broil topped with red onions and dijonaise.) In addition, the cafe offers breakfast sandwiches, salads, soups, DIY grain bowls, house pastries, and tons of coffee drinks.

Bentley’s Restaurant, Bar, and Lounge: Adding to Charm City’s recent jazz renaissance is this new restaurant and live music venue in Mt. Vernon. On the heels of Keystone Korner’s debut in Harbor East, Bentley’s is now officially open on Antique Row—offering a comfort food menu and weekly jazz, soul, and R&B performances. Diners can tap their feet along to the live soundtrack while enjoying dishes such as beef brisket in a red-wine demi glace, filet mignon topped with crabmeat, and crispy skin salmon with sweet potato mash. Bar snacks include Old Bay wings, peach-glazed shrimp, and Baja fish tacos.

DAYTIME DINING:

Noona’s: Speaking of Han, his pizza spot in Bolton Hill is now open for lunch. As MICA students and faculty return to the neighborhood for the fall semester, the restaurant is now open at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Friday. To accommodate those with limited lunch breaks, Noona’s will feature pub-style service during the day (diners pay at the bar and have their food brought to them) with featured dishes including the house burger, a tomato and mozzarella sandwich, and a farro grain bowl with soft boiled egg and late-summer herbs and veggies.

Topside: Hotel Revival’s rooftop restaurant is also launching daytime service this fall. Beginning Thursday, September 19, Topside will open from 7-10:30 a.m. for breakfast and then reopen from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for lunch. Executive chef Scott Hines’ breakfast menu will include egg white frittatas and grilled French toast with chantilly cream, while the lunch lineup will feature classic Maryland crab soup and an ancient grains salad with pickled fennel. The first day of the new service just so happens to coincide with Moveable Feast’s Dining Out for Life fundraiser, which donates 25 percent of proceeds from participating restaurants to feeding locals in need.

COMING SOON

Roll Ice Cream & Coffee: Great news for sweet tooth fiends in Mt. Vernon. Highlandtown staple Roll Ice Cream & Coffee is bringing its customizable confections to the neighborhood with a new stall at Mount Vernon Marketplace. Opening on Saturday, August 31, the spot will offer its made-to-order treats that freeze a liquid ice cream base on a subzero plate before mixing in toppings and rolling it up in a cup or waffle taco. Although add-ins can be mixed and matched, co-owners Jason Werner and Jessica Reyes also offer house creations like the popular “Couch Surfer”—which tops a chocolate base with potato chips and caramel popcorn. In keeping with the local feel, the owners also collaborate with area purveyors like Wight Tea Co. and Ceremony Coffee to create their matcha and coffee flavors. Stop by the grand opening from 2-6 p.m. this weekend to sample signature ice cream concoctions and coffee drinks offered exclusively for the grand opening.

Heritage Smokehouse: Industry insiders know George Marsh as the former head chef and butcher at Parts & Labor in Remington, where he specialized in whole-animal butchery and supplied cuts to sister restaurants (including Woodberry Kitchen) and customers in the retail shop up front. “A lot of people are uncomfortable if their meat doesn’t come in a little shrink-wrapped Styrofoam thing,” Marsh told us back in 2016. “I want people to connect with it, see it, get used to it, get comfortable with it. Everyone’s gotten so desensitized to what meat is and what it looks like.” Now, the chef is bringing those philosophies to a new spot of his own. Slated to open in the former home of Murphy’s Bar in Govans by the end of the year, the York Road restaurant will offer smoked meats, locally sourced sides, and a family-friendly setting with arcade games.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

8/30-9/1: Water Song Pop-Up at R. House
Head to R. House sometime during the long Labor Day weekend to get a taste of Yunnan, China by way of Remington. Water Song will be setting up shop in the food hall’s rotating pop-up stall to serve authentic Mixian rice noodles in a tasty broth with pickled mustard greens, a touch of meat, and lots of chili oil.

SHUT:

Minnow: Last weekend, brothers Ben and Jake Lefenfeld served their last orders of crab toast and crispy tofu at this nautical-themed restaurant in Riverside. Open since May 2017, the La Cuchara sister-spot became known for its fish dishes and weekend drag brunches. Although regulars are sad to see Minnow go, the owners aren’t going anywhere. They recently decided it was time for a change and are planning to reopen the restaurant as a new concept called The Hot Dry this weekend. Stay tuned for more details and an exclusive interview with the Lefenfeld brothers on our Local Flavor Live podcast.

COMING SOON

The Urban Burger Bar: It’s going to be a great year for Jasmine Norton, the local chef who you’ve most likely seen shucking shells and slinging po’ boys around town with her pop-up The Urban Oyster. Come March, Norton is expected to open a brick-and-mortar home for the concept at McHenry Row in Locust Point. But before she settles down at the seafood spot, she’s switching things up with a burger concept in R. House’s rotating pop-up stall from January 28-February 3. “I love that R. House provides this platform so that chefs don’t have to be married to one thing,” Norton says. “It allows people to see I’m not just oysters. I’m a chef who can cook lots of things.” Swing by to sample a variety of different patties, including the “Simpleton” with cheddar cheese, “Bacon Bae” with thick-cut bacon, a portobello mushroom burger with Swiss and caramelized onions, and The Urban Oyster’s smoked salmon burger—which uses fish that is smoked and flaked in house before being formed into a patty topped with Old Bay aioli. The pop-up will also offer seasoned fries and additional toppings like avocado and fried eggs. 301 W. 29th St.

OPEN

Charmed Restaurant: Just when we thought the local restaurant scene couldn’t get any more “charming,” this Mt. Vernon newbie opened its doors on the 800 block of North Calvert Street earlier this week. Not to be confused with Charmed Kitchen—which debuted in Butcher’s Hill last month—the neighborhood spot from industry veteran Danae Schrock opens bright and early at 6 a.m., offering rotating baked goods and a full menu of breakfast and lunch fare. Decorated with pops of Orioles orange and Ravens decals, the Baltimore-themed eatery features Old Bay omelets, chocolate chip pancakes, yogurt parfaits, and tater-tot waffles topped with fried eggs and avocado. Lunch specials range from a veggie wrap and champagne spinach salad to a fiesta burger with chipotle mayo. The dining destination fills a void on the block that was left by Brew House No. 16, which closed its doors just across the street last month. 824 N. Calvert St. 443-835-2803

NEWS

Garden & Gun Praises The Bluebird Cocktail Room: Hampden’s own literary-themed haven was given a serious shout-out earlier this week, when it was named one of the Best New Southern Bars by Garden & Gun magazine. Bluebird was the only Maryland bar mentioned among the 25 sipping spots scattered everywhere from Virginia and Washington, D.C. to Tennessee and Texas. “The cocktails at the Bluebird are as sturdy as a three-legged stool, served in a room with the feel of a well-funded library at a small but prestigious school,” wrote reporter Wayne Curtis, referring to the shelves stocked with vintage literature donated by The Book Thing in Waverly. Though Bluebird has gotten plenty of local love since it opened in 2017, we couldn’t be happier that the next-level spot—whose menu currently includes winter options like a house eggnog and hot toddy with whiskey and ginger—is getting some national attention. 3600 Hickory Ave. 667-303-3263

Dining Discounts for Furloughed Workers: As the government shutdown persists, more than 172,000 federal workers throughout the state are struggling to make ends meet. But the local dining scene is lending a hand by offering discounted meals for those who have been furloughed. At Pinch inside Mount Vernon Marketplace, federal employees can enjoy half-off dumpling specials with valid government ID. Ejji Ramen is also paying it forward with free rice bowls at both of its locations in Belvedere Square and in Bethesda. Local dessert pop-up Love Puddin’ is hoping to lift spirits by offering free pudding delivery(think flavors like Oreo-topped “dirt” and sweet strawberry-crunch) throughout the end of this week. And, in an effort to help families continue to dine out, Mr. Y’s Pizza n Fries in Fallston is gifting free kids meals for all children of federal employees until the end of the shutdown.

Heavy Seas Offers Twists on Uncharted Waters Series: This year, Heavy Seas is having some fun with its “Uncharted Waters” series of limited releases, which includes favorites like the Siren Note chocolate stout and Great’er Pumpkin ale. Throughout 2019, the Halethorpe brewery plans to unveil draft-only twists on some of the beers. The first will be a salted caramel version of Blackbeard’s Breakfast, a bourbon barrel-aged imperial coffee porter. The updated release is a non-coffee variant brewed in a tank with house-made caramel and imported sea salt. “It has a more pronounced vanilla aroma, along with a rich toffee, caramel flavor that is balanced nicely with the hint of salt,” said brewmaster Chris Leonard, in a statement. “There are still some coffee-like roasted notes, but they provide a much subtler layer to the flavor profile.” The beer will be available on draft in select markets starting in February. 4615 Hollins Ferry Rd., Halethorpe. 410-247-7822

EPICUREAN EVENTS

1/19: Minnow’s Bombtastic Drag Brunch
This South Baltimore hangout is kicking off its first drag brunch of 2019 in style. Settle in with a first round of bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas before the fabulous Bombalicious starts the show with special guests Sarabesque and Betty O’Hellno. The tapas-style bottomless brunch includes plates like crispy oysters, shrimp ceviche, pastrami-cured salmon, sour cream doughnuts, French toast, and more. (If you need to brush up on your drag brunch etiquette for this weekend, we’ve got you covered.) 2 E. Wells St. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. 443-759-6537. $59

1/24: Yeast Meets West Maryland Beer Dinner

Some might be familiar with Federal Hill’s Don’t Know Tavern as a go-to for day-drinking and game-watching. But next week, the bar is switching things up with a four-course prix-fixe menu paired with beers from RAR in Cambridge and Union Craft Brewing in Hampden. Be on the lookout for Chesapeake-inspired dishes like pan-fried coddies paired with RAR Bucktown Brown ale, pit beef with smoked tomato chutney alongside Union’s Dark Sour, and Smith Island Cake with candied popcorn paired with Union’s AM Gold vanilla latte. 1453 Light St. 6:30-9:30 p.m. 410-539-0231. $69

Wake up and smell the hairspray—local drag queens have taken over Baltimore’s brunch scene, and they’re leaving a trail of glitter in their wake. With high-energy performers drawing masses of mimosa-sipping patrons to restaurants such as Minnow, El Bufalo Tequila Bar & Kitchen, and Trinacria Cafe, it’s time for a refresher course on how to act when a queen sashays around your table or challenges you to a twerk-off.

We asked Brooklyn Heights, host and lead performer of Points South Latin Kitchen’s Sunday brunch, to give us the lowdown on drag brunch etiquette.

• Always tip your entertainers! It takes a lot of money to look this fabulous, darling.
• Do not touch, unless given permission.
• Unless you work for Picture People, get off your damn phone!
• The more you drink, the prettier we’ll look.
• If anything we do offends you, you probably don’t belong here, anyway.
• Respect the staff as much as the entertainers. We ALL work hard to please you!
• Make a reservation, confirm your reservation, and show up to your damn reservation.
• Have fun!

With the rise of delivery apps and fast-paced food halls, our modern world prioritizes convenience and efficiency. Yet the finery of tableside preparation—the swiveling carts, the knife-wielding waiters, the pyrotechnics on wheels—is making a comeback.

Though the practice dates back to the Edwardian era when dishes were served a la francaise or a la russe in elegant banquet halls, it crossed the Atlantic Ocean and redefined dining in post-WWII America with its decadent flair. Now, diners pine for this old-school showmanship once more as restaurants keep them on the edge of their seats with flaming displays and theatrical flourishes.

Here are some restaurants that will leave you “ooh-ing” and “aah-ing” with their tableside fare.

Rec Pier Chop House
Salad artists put on a show as they cut, toss, and dress romaine into classic Caesars, complete with freshly cracked pepper, egg, and anchovies. 1715 Thames St., 443-552-1300

Minnow
Hot toddies take an experimental turn with a 10-minute vacuum infusion to enhance herbal and citrus flavors. 2 E. Wells St., 443-759-6537

Chopstix Gourmet
On weekends, a parade of carts rolls out of the kitchen and makes its way through roundtables with lazy Susans, transporting bite-sized dishes called dim sum (translates to “touch the heart”). 1201 67th St., Rosedale, 410-866-2903

The Black Olive
Select fresh fish from a seafood display and watch as it’s meticulously filleted and deboned right in front of you. 814 S. Bond St., 410-276-7141

The Bygone
Roasted Peking duck, stuffed with herbs and glazed with lavender honey, arrives at the table on a silver platter, then is set ablaze with brandy and overproof rum. 400 International Dr., 443-343-8200

Wit & Wisdom
Lobster pot pie gets deconstructed as servers remove the pastry lid and place its contents—Maine lobster, truffle-brandied cream, and vegetables——atop the thick crust. 200 International Dr., 410-576-5800

COMING SOON

The Charmery Towson: Anneslie locals might have noticed the new, custom-made ice cream cone sculpture that towers over the building at 6807 York Road. The storefront is now home to the newest location of The Charmery, the beloved ice cream shop whose flagship sits on the Avenue in Hampden. Owners David and Laura Alima are putting the finishing touches on the larger shop in preparation for its grand opening this Saturday, May 26. Decorated with custom wallpaper, interior greenery, and vintage VHS tapes that pay homage to the building’s history as an old video store, the shop features a 16-flavor lineup including old favorites like Old Bay Caramel, and a new Rocky York Road flavor (chocolate, ice cream, peanuts, and marshmallow sauce) inspired by its new address. 6807 York Rd.

Cinnaholic: Making decadent cinnamon rolls without eggs or dairy might seem like a daunting task, but this vegan bakery has perfected its recipe. The California-based franchise, which was featured on Shark Tank, will officially cut the ribbon at its newest location at the Rotunda in Hampden on Friday, June 8. To celebrate the debut of its first Baltimore eatery, Cinnaholic will be giving out $1 cinnamon rolls from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on opening day. Diners can customize the treats with a variety of frosting flavors and toppings like berries, nuts, marshmallows, and chocolate chips. 727 West 40th St.

NEWS:

Food Network Gives Love to Baltimore: We’re always happy to see our dining scene get some well-deserved national acclaim. Earlier this week, the Food Network published its picks for the best places to eat in the Baltimore—describing us a “way-underrated food town with accessible traditions, strong chefs, and a palpable sense of slightly off-kilter pride.” Among the many spots that received shout-outs include local gems like Ale Mary’s, Matthew’s Pizza, The Chasseur, DiPasquales, Red Emma’s, Clavel, Ekiben, Idle Hour, Wet City, Blacksauce Kitchen, and the aforementioned Charmery.

Andrew Zimmern Gets a Taste of Baltimore: Speaking of national television praise, The Travel Channel star Andrew Zimmern stopped by a handful of local spots on an episode of his show “The Zimmern Project” that aired earlier this week. Zimmern’s first visit was to Lexington Market for a classic turkey dinner at Krause’s and classic crab cakes at Faidley’s. His Baltimore food tour also included sandwiches at DiPasquale’s in Highlandtown, crabs at LP Steamers in Locust Point, tailgating outside of M&T Bank Stadium, and a meal at Rye Street Tavern in Port Covington.

Zack Mills Moving on from Wit & Wisdom: It’s the end of an era for Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore. Executive chef Zack Mills took to Instagram earlier this week to announce that he would be moving on from the Chesapeake-inspired restaurant after heading up its kitchen for the past five years. His last night of service will be Saturday, June 2. “It means so much that I got the opportunity to help run a restaurant in my home state for the same restaurant group family that taught me everything,” Mills wrote, referring to his longtime mentor and Wit & Wisdom operator Michael Mina. “Thank you from the bottom of my heart to everyone who has supported this restaurant over the years.” Mills is looking forward to taking time off before making his next move.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/26: Baltimore Herb Fest
Now back for its 31st year, the Baltimore Herb Festival transforms Leakin Park into a plant paradise with more than 50 outdoor vendors, live music, free rides on miniature steam trains, and a lineup of lectures from local gardening professionals. Plus, there will be plenty of food trucks on site for attendees to grab lunch while taking in all of the greenery. Leakin Park, 1920 Eagle Drive, $7, 9:30 a.m.- 3 p.m.

5/28: Red, White, and Blue Crab Feast at Minnow
Nothing says Memorial Day Weekend like picking crabs and cracking beers. This Monday, Minnow in South Baltimore is doing just that with a special holiday brunch featuring all-you-can-eat crabs, frites with smoked red pepper aioli, roasted corn with lime crema, red beans with ham hocks, and Napa slaw. Wash down all of the eats with $12 Bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas, $2 RAR Brewing Country Ride pale ales, and boozy snowballs. Minnow, 2 E. Wells St., $39, 11 a.m.- 8 p.m., 443-759-6537

5/28: Memorial Day Block Party at Parts & Labor
Spend your day off at this Remington hangout, which will be hosting one of its signature outdoor block parties with eats, drinks, and plenty of group games like Ping Pong and cornhole. Specials of note for the holiday soiree include $2 beers and $6 burgers all day long. 2600 N. Howard St., 11 a.m.- 9 p.m. 443-873-8887.

SHUT

Chick P City: The days are numbered for this Middle Eastern outpost in Mt. Vernon. Last week, owners Majeed and Dina Tamerjan announced on Facebook that their last day in business would be Thursday, May 31. “Thank you so much for all of the love you showed us,” the post reads. “We won’t forget it.” The Read Street spot was best known for its falafel, pita wraps, and traditional spreads. As a thank you to all of its customers, Chick P City will be offering 10 percent off all platters until its last night. 202 W. Read St. 410-244-7009

 EAT

April 29: Bottomless Drag Brunch

Minnow, 2 E. Wells St. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. $69. 443-759-6537

Nothing says “Sunday Funday” like sipping on bottomless morning cocktails, noshing on tapas-style eats, and watching drag queens lip-sync and dance between tables. At this monthly drag brunch, sample from Minnow’s signature brunch menu (think crispy chicken biscuits, sour cream doughnuts, and fried oysters), and cheer on local divas like Bombalicious, Abbi Kadabra, and Desiree Dik as they sashay through the South Baltimore restaurant.

 DRINK

April 28: The Last Party at Sisson St.

The Baltimore Whiskey Company, 2800 Sisson St. 12-6 p.m. Free. 443-687-9099.

The Baltimore Whiskey Company’s Remington distillery holds a lot of special memories; after all, that’s where their team concocted the first rye whiskey produced in the city since the Prohibition era. But change is inevitable, and as the BWC prepares to move into their new digs at Union Collective this spring, it’s time to say farewell to the beloved distillery at Sisson Street. During this final parking-lot party, featuring the second release of the award-winning Epoch Straight Rye, raise a glass to the distillery’s next chapter and dig into eats from local food truck Farm to Charm.

 SEE

April 28: Women of the World Festival Baltimore

Notre Dame of Maryland University, 4701 N. Charles St. 9 a.m.-7 p.m. $6-20. 410-435-0100

The past year was defined by female voices—from speaking out against sexual harassment to becoming a tenacious political force. Now in its second year, the Women of the World (WOW) Festival returns just in time to explore women’s issues through panels, performances, and activities. This Saturday, head to Maryland’s only all-women’s college and get inspired by keynote speakers Tarana Burke, the #MeToo founder who was named a Time magazine “Person of the Year,” and Roxane Gay, cultural critic and The New York Times best-selling author of Bad Feminist and Hunger. After the keynote speeches, drop by sessions like Self Care for Women of Color and Trailblazing Women of Baltimore, peruse through women empowerment-focused vendors, and grab bites from local food trucks. 

 HEAR

April 27-18: Charm City Bluegrass Festival

Druid Hill Park, 900 Druid Park Lake Dr. Fri. 4 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m. $30-170. 410-396-6106.

The Charm City Bluegrass Festival has proven time and time again that Baltimore’s Americana music scene is a force to be reckoned with. Now in its sixth year, the festival has upped the ante, expanding to a two-day celebration featuring three stages, 21 bands, local food, and homegrown brews from Union Craft Brewing. This weekend, experience a little slice of Americana heaven with performances by headliners The Devil Makes Three and The Travelin’ McCourys, plus local acts such as Caleb Stine, Haint Blue, and The Honey Dewdrops.

 

 DO

April 28: Roots and Raíces Festival 

128 W. North Ave. 1 p.m.-2 a.m. $10-15. 410-752-1513.

In collaboration with the Court Appointed Special Advocates, Roots and Raíces, a local communications platform for immigrants and people of color, presents its inaugural music and arts festival that highlights immigrant and minority-led performances, vendors, and organizations. This Saturday, hear nationally renowned artists like EDM influencer Dave Nada, DJ and producer Happy Colors, and four-piece band Conjunto Bruja, as well as local artists :3LON, Nikilad, and Genie. Browse through artwork and crafts in the El Mercado, participate in a piñata-making workshop, meet with immigrant-rights advocates, and fill up on eats from local favorites Cocina Luchadoras and The Cupcake Fairy.

Spring is finally making its debut in Baltimore—with flowery buds blooming on trees and neighbors venturing out to sit on their stoops. With that also comes fresh area produce and the use of herbaceous and fruity local ingredients on cocktail menus around town.

“A lot of what we do with cocktails here is fun and quirky anyway,” says Jake Lefenfeld, co-owner of Minnow in Riverside. “But spring is that great time to get locally sourced carrots and beautiful fruits like huckleberries.”

Minnow’s new spring cocktail menu, which launches on Monday, include drinks on the entire color spectrum including Through the Looking Glass, a gin martini with lychee pearls infused with a bright, naturally blue butterfly pea extract.

“We were lucky enough to work in the McCormick science lab to test what products we could infuse that would still hold up their forms,” Lefenfeld says. “You’ve got to fail at eight different things before you get it to work. My goal was to use something natural to achieve a beautiful color.”

Natural ingredients are also highlighted on the new, John Waters-inspired menu at R. Bar, which uses titles from the filmmakers’ irreverent portfolio as inspiration.

“We’re finally getting the fresh things that are locally produced,” says R. Bar manager Amie Ward. “You’re looking at more greenery and herbs; berries start to get on the radar. Any opportunity I have to sneak in carrot juice or snap peas into cocktails, I’ll take it.”

One way Ward’s staff is sneaking in those vegetables in is through the Suspicious Scotty Barnhill (based off a character in Serial Mom), which uses Barr Hill Gin, Mastiha Greek Liqueur, carrot juice from R. House’s Stall 11, and Shrub District Celery.

“At first, you wouldn’t think all those ingredients would pair well together except if you were a health nut,” Ward says. “But it’s delicious! People say it’s a great Bloody Mary substitute.”

An ode to Female Trouble, the Trouble Maker cocktail also uses stall ingredients—in this case, matcha tea, from Ground & Griddled—to compliment the funky notes of Paranubes Oaxacan Rum, herbaceous honey-thyme flavor of Vecchio Amaro del Capo, and lemon.

Goodbye rainbow, hello black. From charcoal-activated brownies to squid-ink stained pasta and blood sausage, inky-toned fare is the latest trend to hit area restaurants.

“The black food trend started because of earthy umami flavors that have been reintegrated into the current culinary scene,” says La Cuchara executive chef/co-owner Ben Lefenfeld. “Think truffles, nori, fermented garlic, squid ink, charcoal, boudin noir [blood sausage]—all are ancient flavors representative of artisan small-batch production and preservation of different food products.” Of course, the color black (or, if you want to get technical, the lack of color) also offers dramatic visual appeal. “It looks really cool in high-resolution photography,” says Lefenfeld.

Here’s a peek at some of the area’s hottest dark-hued edibles.

The Golden Egg | La Cuchara

The Dark Night Cocktail | Minnow

The L.D.E. Dry-Aged Burger | Minnow

Squid Ink Spaghetti | Cinghiale

Nearly 100 dining destinations scattered across the city are perfecting their menus for Baltimore City Winter Restaurant Week, which returns in its 13th year January 12-21. With featured spots offering everything from burgers to bronzini—plus more vegan and vegetarian options than ever before—the annual prix-fixe promotion certainly boasts plenty to choose from.

“I thought originally that it was only for fancy places,” says Annabel Lee Tavern owner Kurt X. Bragunier, who is participating in Restaurant Week for the first time this season. “But I’ve learned over time that little places like mine are good candidates, too. So I figured I’d give it a shot.”

Bragunier’s ode to Edgar Allan Poe on the corner of South Clinton Street closed briefly last summer due to financial struggles. Luckily, two local investors swooped in to save the bar soon after. Now that the tavern is back on its feet, Bragunier says that he’s looking forward to really showing the community what it has to offer.

“We wanted to gear the menu toward people who haven’t been here,” he says, mentioning the restaurant’s “tried and true” dishes including its crab cakes, crispy Brussels sprouts, and duck-fat fries. “I feel really strongly about our food—it’s just all about getting people in here to try it.”

Annabel Lee is among many of the must-try spots that are participating in the 10-day deal, which offers fixed menus priced between $12-25 for a two-course lunch, and $20-35 for a three-course dinner. In an effort to help break down all of the options, we’ve put together list of recommendations for the best spots to visit—whether you’re interested in a luxurious lunch, vegetarian dishes, beer pairings, or dining near a cozy fireplace.

Best bargain: The Prime Rib
With its white linen tablecloths, leather chairs, and famous leopard-print carpet, this Midtown supper club is bursting with old-school charm. And while its entrees could typically set you back anywhere from $26-69, the swanky steakhouse is offering a three-course prix-fixe menu including all of the classics for $35 during Restaurant Week. Choose from a house salad or warm bowl of tomato soup to start, followed by main courses like filet mignon, chopped sirloin, a center-cut pork chop, imperial crab, or the namesake special cut of prime rib. End the evening on a sweet note with traditional crème brûlee, key lime pie, or chocolate mousse. 1101 N. Calvert St., $35, 410-539-1804

Beer pairings: Heavy Seas Alehouse
There are plenty of spots to sip worldly wines, but if you’re more of a beer person, Heavy Seas Alehouse has got you covered. Each of the menu’s three courses will be accompanied by 10-oz. pours of Heavy Seas favorites including the Vienna-style Cutlass lager, Peg Leg imperial stout, and the brand new Americannon pale ale. Fittingly, the menu also features beer-infused specials including beer-battered crab dip, an alehouse burger marinated in Heavy Seas’ Powder Monkey pale ale, Golden Ale mousse, and a Tropicannon bread pudding with beer-infused cream sauce. 1300 Bank St., $35, 410-522-0850

Brunch spot: Minnow
This South Baltimore spot, which has been generating buzz with its smoked cocktails and trendy black-bun burgers, is going all out for Restaurant Week. In addition to the prix-fixe dinner menu (think dishes like crispy tofu, braised beef short ribs, and a chocolate-almond tart), the spot is also offering a three-course brunch. Dig in to dishes like French toast with spiced apple compote, crispy fried chicken on a blue corn waffle, sautéed shrimp omelets, and a Snow White cake with a  vanilla-swiss buttercream. 2 E. Wells St., $22-35, 443-759-6537

Luxurious lunch: Johnny’s
Ditch the sad desk lunch and head to this Roland Park favorite for a three-course meal that starts off with either butternut squash soup with sage brown butter, or a classic Caesar salad. Then choose from options like a beer-braised short rib sandwich, chicken BLT hoagie, or a grilled shrimp kale salad with beets, goat cheese, and Marcona almonds. You can’t go wrong with ginger molasses, mocha chocolate chip, or gluten-free peanut butter cookies for dessert. 4800 Roland Ave., $20-35, 410-773-0777

Newbie: Rye Street Tavern
If you have been meaning to swing by chef Andrew Carmellini’s new tavern next to the Sagamore Spirit Distillery campus in Port Covington, Restaurant Week is an ideal opportunity. Take in the waterfront views while indulging in options like black bean soup with lime crema, cornmeal-crusted catfish with Carolina gold rice, the chef’s famous fried chicken with buttermilk biscuits and whiskey pickles, and banana pudding for dessert. 225 E. Cromwell St., $20-35, 443-662-8000, weekends excluded.

Most romantic: Annabel Lee Tavern
Nothing says amour like the melancholic-romantic style of Edgar Allan Poe. This beloved corner destination devoted to the master of macabre is an ideal date-night spot, with its dim lighting, merlot-colored walls, sculpted ravens, and vintage paintings. Glance over the handwritten menu to find dishes like chicken tortilla soup, a charred romaine and tomato salad, and comfort-food entrees like meatloaf with Applewood-bacon gravy and a mango vegetable curry served over couscous. Plus, you can make it a cheap date, since the prix-fixe menu only costs $28. 601 S. Clinton St., $28, 410-522-2929, weekends excluded.

Vegetarian offerings: Myth & Moonshine
Sip Moonshine cocktails out of a Mason jar while enjoying the farmers’ market-inspired fare at this Canton hangout. Chef Kevin Cauthorne’s three-course dinner menu features many meatless options including French onion soup, a fried goat cheese medallion in a crimson tomato sauce, and white wine-marinated eggplant fried in Cajun flour with a side of sautéed spinach and zucchini. The dessert menu also bolsters the ultra-local focus, featuring Dangerously Delicious Berger cookie pie and cheesecake from Sasscer’s Bakery in Canton. 2300 Boston St., $25-35, 410-777-5502

Best fireplace: Regi’s Bistro
Retreat from the frigid temperatures by snagging a table near the antique marble fireplace at this Federal Hill mainstay. The seasonal specialties on Regi’s Restaurant Week menu only add to the cozy vibe—with lunch options like a Bangkok chicken noodle bowl or steak quesadilla, or dinner dishes including Chilean sea bass, veal osso bucco, New York strip steak, and flourless chocolate cake. 1002 Light St., $15-34, 410-539-7344

Australian millionaire and real-estate mogul Tim Gurner recently shared some words of wisdom with millennials who are struggling to save for a home: Stop buying artisanal avocado toast. It seems like a piece of sage advice to the aspiring homeowner. Then again, Gurner never had the crisped-up creations with roasted tomato vinaigrette at Jake and Ben Lefenfeld’s Minnow. If he had, he’d understand that renting has its merits.

In addition to the avocado toast, everything about this place is well worth the investment. The fare, prepared by former Foreman Wolf cook and Culinary Institute of America grad Drew Lesoveck, is high-quality, well-priced, and fuss-free. Situated in trendy Riverside, Minnow acts as a neighborhood place (we love that Jake, who lives within walking distance, knows the name of every dog who sniffs the sidewalk), but it’s also destination dining as good, or even better, than many fine-dining spots in the city.

The nautical theme is in full force here with bait-fish lures set inside recycled sardine tins from La Cuchara (the owners’ sister spot), fish-print pillows, and marine-blue touches—all of which invoke a modern-day Maryland seafood house. It’s a motif that could easily become kitschy or overdone, but remains tasteful here.

The highly approachable menu, with just the right amount of starters (“Smalls”), entrees (“Biggies”), and sides, practices similar restraint. Minnow’s menu is heavy on simple seafood preparations, though, surprisingly, you’ll also find several stellar vegetarian items, including a black bean burger with shredded beets and a flatbread festooned with lavender, asparagus, chevre, and zucchini.

Minnow offers a familiar take on seafood favorites, but they’re done in a new way. Case in point: Another toast-forward offering is the crab toast—a fresh approach to a crab salad sandwich. It features an oversized scoop of Maryland’s finest jumbo lump perched on a house-made slab of buttery brioche toast drizzled with a classic creamy Green Goddess dressing and served alongside a grilled plum tomato.

Other seafood stars include the best mussels I’ve ever had (and a ridiculous bargain for $5 at the daily happy hour). Sourced from Prince Edward Island, served in a ceramic white bowl, and swimming in a simple sauce of white wine, roasted garlic slices, and parsley, they were so tender they slid straight out of the shell with little to no nudging. A pile of first-rate frites, dressed in garlic aioli and plopped on top, were equally irresistible.

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Crispy Tofu
In a sea of seafood, the crispy tofu seems like a menu anomaly and is easy enough to overlook. Go ahead and get it. It has been soaked in soy, garlic, shallots, and sesame oil for 36 hours, and is a great prelude to the menu’s proteins. 

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My dining companion and I also enjoyed the shrimp ceviche starter—a meltingly tender affair (soaked in lemon, lime, and orange juices) that seems to evaporate on the tongue and was accompanied by house-made chips for scooping.

Our “Biggies,” included a first-rate plate of Baltimore coddies—two patties made of blended roasted potatoes and cod—that offered a bit of nostalgia with a modern twist. This version is prettily presented atop a bed of sauteed spinach and pea shoots, and basks in a citrusy and sweet orange beurre blanc.

Though instinct would tell you to stick with the treasures of the sea, the non-seafood entrees—including the tomato bisque with grilled raclette on house-made sourdough bread and a killer fried chicken with crunchy pickled cabbage and blue-corn waffles (the smell will make you salivate as you walk in the front door)—are eminently satisfying, too.

In keeping with the casualness of the place, the waitstaff is pleasantly low-key. Over the course of several visits, our servers were helpful without hovering and seemed well-versed on dish details.

The beverage program, overseen by Lefenfeld, is similarly stalwart. Cheekily named rum-, whiskey-, and bourbon-based cocktails are $10 a pop and perfectly put together. (F* That’s Delicious—with Bulleit Bourbon, amaro, and cava—lives up to its name.) And if you don’t mind a bit of restaurant rubbernecking, consider a trendy Old Fashioned that gets smoked tableside.

There’s also a reasonably priced list of local beers and Mediterranean wines. In fact, at $8 a glass for a Spanish rose, you can order the $7 avocado toast and likely still afford a down payment on that one-bedroom loft in Riverside.

The La Cuchara team—Ben Lefenfeld, his wife, Amy, and brother, Jake, are putting the finishing touches on their new casual seafood spot in the Riverside Park area of Federal Hill at 2 E. Wells Street.

Set to open within the first week of May, the team is hoping that Minnow will contribute something new to Baltimore’s exploding scene.

“Lately, there have been very large, fine-dining restaurants opening, but we wanted to take a different path as far as location and as far as style of food,” explains Ben, who will remain at La Cuchara but oversee operations at the new venture. “There’s a lot of fast casual that’s been going in and also high-end dining—we’re trying to fill the void between the two.”

Chef Drew Lesoveck, former brewmaster at Union Craft Brewing, will oversee a menu of simply prepared large and small plates, including house-cured sardine toast, Bluefin tuna crudo, moules frites, a soft-shell crab BLT, and pan-roasted rainbow trout.

“For many years, there has been a lack of a great quality seafood places in the city, especially places that are casual and not producing most of their seafood in the steamer or fryer or the raw bar,” says Ben. “We are really trying to get back to simply prepared seafood with a heavy emphasis on fish.”

For non-seafood lovers, there will be other options, including a fried chicken sandwich served on a blue corn waffle (“not one of our lower calorie choices,” cracks Ben) and a black bean and beet vegetarian burger. Entrees will run between $11 and $17.

La Cuchara head baker Carrie Goltra will preside over the bread and pastry, and house-made ice cream program at Minnow, as well.

Sommelier Marco Valverde, formerly of The Elephant, will oversee the wine program. “The focus will be mainly Mediterranean wines,” says Jake. “We will have lots of wines by the glass and are going to have a fairly extensive cocktail list with a lower price point, as well as draft beers and some fun things that will remind customers of La Cuchara, like smoked cocktails, but with their own curve.” 

Aesthetically, Ben says, he wanted it to feel like “a cross between a Great Lakes cabin with an East Coast Maine feel.” To that end, design details include marine blue accents, a barn door made of barrel stays, and vintage lures set inside sardine tins mounted on the wall above a seating area of banquettes that is reminiscent of the team’s Basque-inspired spot in Woodberry.

Minnow will offer free valet parking, key in an area where parking is often a problem, and will not take reservations for parties under 6. The restaurant will be open daily for dinner, with plans for Sunday brunch in a few months.

Jake, a Riverside resident, knows the neighborhood firsthand and is excited to be able to walk to work.

“From living down here, I know there’s a crowd that wants to go out and enjoy great service, even if it’s for a lower price point,” he says. “We really hope to draw on that.”