Beginning with the opening of the Greek-isles-inspired Ouzo Bay in 2012, Atlas Restaurant Group has gone all over the globe, with stops in Japan (Azumi), Italy (Tagliata, Italian Disco), Latin America (Maximón), and, soon, France (Monarque). But while the restaurant group has been around the world, it’s finally firmly rooted in Baltimore with The Choptank. Inside the newly renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point, Choptank bills itself as a “classic fish and crabhouse,” but it’s way more than that.

For starters, there’s a locally loved chef—Andrew Weinzirl of Maggie’s Farm fame—an adult playground with ping-pong, pool, and foosball tables, cornhole in place of the usual Keno, century-old photographs of Fells Point (no stuffed marlins or knotty pine here), and live music nightly. If there’s smoke outside on the patio, it’s likely from cigars, not cigarettes.

It’s a crabhouse, yes, but one with swagger. There’s also a menu full of finds and all the bells and whistles of a landmark in the making. When it comes to Maryland menus, it doesn’t get more Old Line than this: There’s crab soup, Monkton-sourced Roseda pit beef, Maryland crab dip, hard shells (sourced locally when available), Sweet Jesus oysters from the Chesapeake Bay, and Natty Boh’s Beer Can Chicken.

In many ways, this might be my favorite of Atlas’ 13 local spots, which can sometimes feel overly thematic. There’s a theme here for sure, but it’s the story of our state and one fitting for a restaurant set inside the historic south shed of Broadway Market, a place that once served the sailors and immigrants of Fells and is named for the Native American tribe that occupied the Choptank river basin in 1668.

Pretzel monkey bread

Rockfish Oscar

In addition to Atlas co-owners, and born-and-bred Maryland brothers, Alex and Eric Smith, there’s a third partner, Vasilios “Bill” Tserkis, who owns the nearby Captain James Landing crabhouse, which his family has owned and operated for more than five decades. Which is to say, the fabric of that heritage and history are woven into the walls here.

On my first visit, the place was packed in the still-warm fall weather. Of course, there was buzz surrounding the controversial dress code rules (no baggy clothing, no shorts below the knee, no sunglasses after dark) when the place opened in August, which seems to only have increased its popularity. (The dress code has since been amended.)

Throngs of patrons crowded outside, and since it was still in season, the requisite mallets and brown paper lined every picnic table. Inside is a more refined, yet casual space, where designer Patrick Sutton wisely retained the look and the feel of the original market, with its soaring wood-beamed ceilings. Blue and white table- ware and napkins and servers in denim shirts and boating shoes carry through the nautical theme, as does a giant crab rising like a phoenix over the raw-bar area. A Black-Eyed Susan, our state flower, graces every table.

Food-wise, we enjoyed almost everything we ate. The Maryland crab soup was a classic rendition with a tasty tomato broth and large chunks of crab meat; fried green tomatoes add a southern spin to the appetizer section, this version was topped with a blue crab and corn salad and Old Bay aioli. We also enjoyed the pull-apart pretzel monkey bread with Old Bay butter, a dippable cheese sauce, and mustard. An ahi tuna salad was nicely presented with thick slices of seared tuna coated in sesame seeds, served over greens with a tart-and-tangy ponzu dressing.

Our entrees included a luscious crab cake platter with broiled jumbo lump. While many places say that they serve Maryland or Gulf crab meat, there’s no question you’re getting quality crustaceans here. The cake was well-portioned and incredibly sweet, with that great crabby flavor that only comes from blue crab. (Little did I know that the following week, The Sun would publish a scathing review, leading the publication and the restaurant to get into a crab cake kerfuffle.)

I also enjoyed the accompanying sides. The fries and coleslaw, ordinarily throwaway accoutrements, were house-made. We also shared the beer-battered fish tacos. While tasty, they were overly fried, though I took note of the price point of this item, and many items, on the menu at a restaurant group that usually offers much more expensive plates.

Since no night out is complete without a sweet, we settled on the Berger cookie bread pudding: Berger cookies and a heap of Old Bay caramel ice cream from Maryland’s own Taharka Brothers mixed into chocolate brioche bread budding. It was the right side of sweet, and I appreciated the effort that went into creating house-made cookies.

By the time of my second visit, the crab controversy was the talk of the town, and I knew that I needed to return for another visit. Taste is, after all, subjective, but just in case my palate was having an off night, I brought along one of the preeminent experts on Chesapeake cuisine as my dining companion. This time, we ordered the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich (move over, Popeye’s) and a crab cake sandwich.

The verdict? While it seemed to have slightly less lump than the cakes on the platter, I loved the pairing of creamy (tartar-style remoulade) and crisp (fennel slaw) to offset the sweet meat. It’s a damn good cake, with made-in-Maryland pride evident in every bite. My mallet has fallen.

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THE CHOPTANK 1641 Aliceanna St., 443-707-3364. HOURS: Sun.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. PRICES: Appetizers, soups, salads: $6-18; sandwiches: $12-29; entrees: $18-39; desserts: $6-8. AMBIANCE: Upscale crabhouse.

COMING SOON

BRD: Back in February, we told you about R. House chicken sandwich stall BRD’s plans to expand to the heart of Federal Hill. After months of work setting up the eatery on the bottom floor of the Wheelhouse apartment building across from Cross Street Market, a grand opening date is finally in sight. Owner Alex Janian will debut his second BRD location to the public on Monday, October 7, offering an extended menu that will highlight new items like thick milkshakes and “BRD Bites”—his take on chicken nuggets.

Of course, diners can also expect the signature sandwiches (including the Katsu Sando and the Bmore Bird with Old Bay and dill pickles) hand-cut fries, dipping sauces, and fountain sodas that they have grown familiar with at the Remington flagship. The best part? The communal dining space designed by PI.KL Studio will be open until 3 a.m. on weekends so that revelers hanging around South Charles Street can still get their fix after last call. “We want to be there when people want it,” Janian told us. “We want to be there when the crowds are there, and we want to be enjoying the night right along with them.”

True Chesapeake Oyster Co.: Speaking of anticipated grand openings, this new Hampden spot will officially premiere to the public on Tuesday, October 8. As its name signifies, the collaborative project between former Wit & Wisdom chef Zack Mills, True Chesapeake oyster farmer Patrick Hudson, and The Local Oyster owner Nick Schauman will incorporate locally farmed bivalves into every aspect of the restaurant. Featured dishes will include oyster stew, semolina fried oysters, roasted half shells, and Mills’ take on a classic Rockefeller. Of course, there will also be other Maryland-inspired fare and an impressive bar lineup from beverage director and general manager Chelsea Gregoire.

OPEN

Red Pepper Sichuan Bistro: The former Allegheny Avenue home of La Cakerie in Towson has recently been transformed from a hot pink-painted bakery into this sleek dining destination specializing in authentic Sichuan cuisine. Fusing salty, sour, sweet, bitter, and floral flavors, the menu—written in both Chinese and English—goes beyond the traditional Kung Pao chicken and mapo tofu with everything from noodle soups to Sichuan street food. Highlights include spicy hot pots, fried pork with scallions, stir-fry Shanghai cabbage, and sweet-and-sour fish fillets. Diners are invited to snag a table in the renovated dining room—now equipped with wooden furniture and a grand piano—or order online for carryout.

NEWS

Lexington Market to Hold Second Community Meeting: The second in a series of quarterly meetings geared toward gathering community input for the Lexington Market revamp, slated to be completed mid-2021, is scheduled for Wednesday, October 9 from 6-7:30 p.m. The inaugural meeting at the end of June drew crowds that expressed a number of concerns, including increased food prices and a lack of employment opportunities. At the next installment, Seawall Development and Baltimore Public Markets plan to further discuss food access, affordable pricing options, and the recruitment process for new vendors inside the 237-year-old public market. In an effort to gain as much feedback as possible, organizers will be offering free childcare during the town hall.

“The project to transform Lexington Market represents an opportunity to prove that brought together in an inclusive way, a single building can unite a very divided city,” said Seawall co-founder Thibault Manekin, in a press release. “We look forward to sharing the progress we have made as a result of hundreds of hours of deep listening and inspiring conversations that we have had all over the city.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/26: Origins: A Speaker Series

The latest iteration of this ongoing speaker series at Artifact Coffee—which we recently gave a Best of Baltimore award—aims to answer one pivotal question: Is it now or never for local farms? Listen in as a panel of female farmers—including Shelby Kalm of Fair Farms Maryland, Dena Leibman of Future Harvest CASA, and Anne Palmer of the Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future—discuss the state of agriculture across the mid-Atlantic. As always, the evening will begin with appetizers and cocktails and close out with a family-style meal inspired by the topic of conversation.

9/26-28: Saint Demetrios Greek Festival

The parishioners of Saint Demetrios Greek Orthodox Church in Parkville have been busy hand-making flaky baklava, stuffed dolmades (grape leaves), scrumptious spanakopita, and more tasty delicacies in preparation for their annual festival returning this weekend. Stop by to sample the flavors of Greece while enjoying folk dancing, live music, shopping, and a designated kids zone. If you still aren’t ready to turn in after all of the excitement, stay out for the Glendi on the Hill after party that will keep the music going until 3 a.m.

9/29: Bramble Bakes x Fat Tiger Bake Sale

Since opening inside Broadway Market in Fells Point last summer, sister concepts Old Boy, Fat Tiger, and El Tigre have already hosted tons of community pop-ups and events. And this weekend, all-day bar Fat Tiger is kicking off yet another initiative to support its fellow food businesses. In the first of many “bake sales” that will provide a temporary storefront to local pastry chefs, Allie Smith of Bramble Bakes will be setting up shop at the centerpiece bar to sell her sweet treats from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. this Sunday. Be on the lookout for potato and leek hand pies, dark chocolate babka knots, five-spice morning buns, and coffee cardamom shortbread all paired with espresso and drip drinks from the Fat Tiger team.

When patrons stop by the North Shed of Broadway Market in Fells Point, they can expect a great mix of vendors old (including Sal & Sons Seafood and Vikki’s Fells Point Deli) and new (Thai Street, Connie’s Chicken and Waffles, Old Boy). In fact, after a nine-month-long, $3-million renovation, this marks the first time in a decade that patrons can visit the North Shed, which fell into disrepair years ago and has finally gotten the spiffy update it needed.

“We knew that we had to create something that was what the market demanded in 2019,” says Stacey Pack, project manager for Lexington Market and Baltimore Public Markets. “This is like traditional market meets food hall. You have stalls like Sal’s selling fresh sh that you can take home to prepare or have it prepared there on the spot.” Adds Phil Han, who owns two of the 10 stalls, “This is an ideal reincarnation of what Broadway Market wants to be right now.”

Here are a few things to note when planning a visit:

Home Again

Three of the vendors, including Vikki’s, Sal’s Seafood, and Sophia’s actually started their businesses in the North Shed, but when it became uninhabitable, they relocated to the South Shed.

Star Stall

Sophia’s Place European Deli is the place to go for outstanding potato or kraut and mushroom pierogies, stuffed cabbage, and baked goods. Years ago, Chelsea Clinton stopped by. “She loved pierogies and kruschicki cookies,” says owner Zofia Para. “Senator Barbara Mikulski [who is of Polish descent] has also been a frequent customer.”

And. . . Action!

Old Boy’s name was, in part, inspired by Park Chanwook’s classic Korean action film Oldboy, based on a Japanese manga of the same name.

To the Dogs
Look for the bowls of water outside near the picnic seating. Broadway Market is Fido-friendly!

Fun Fact
Sal Ayala, who hails from El Salvador, came to L.A. in 1977 and worked in the fish markets, where he learned to speak many languages, including Korean. “I loved meeting Sal and having him speak to me in near fluent Korean,” says Han, who is of Korean descent. “It blew me away.” Says Sal, simply, “I’m a very smart man.”

Golden Arches
The building’s original interior arches above the floor-to-ceiling windows were covered over in the ’70s and ’80s. They’ve now been restored to their former glory and have helped drench the space in sunlight.

History Lesson
Baltimore boasts the oldest continuously operating public market system in the U.S. Baltimore Public Markets have operated even longer than the city’s health department or mayor’s office. A public lottery funded the construction of the first market in 1763. Six Baltimore City Public Markets remain, including Broadway Market—founded in 1786.

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Courtesy of Old Boy

BEST
BITES

No need to ever go hungry (or thirsty) again, especially with new extended dinner hours at Broadway Market. From Poland to Thailand to Korea to India, here are some of the best bites we’ve had thus far.

• Potato pierogies at Sophia’s Place.
• Salty caramel ice cream at Tahkara Bros.
• Tonkatsu pork cutlets and bibimbap at Old Boy.
• Fish and shrimp tacos at Sal & Sons Seafood.
• Chive dumplings at Thai Street.
• Ginger and mint lemonade at The Verandah.

COMING SOON

The Charmery: Baltimore’s own quirky ice cream shop has already made its mark on the Northern Baltimore neighborhoods—serving scoops at its Hampden flagship, Towson storefront, and massive Medfield production factory inside Union Collective. And now, it’s spreading the love south. The Baltimore Business Journal broke the news this week that husband-and-wife owners David and Laura Alima plan to open a fourth location at 46 E. Cross Street in Federal Hill in the coming months. “The factory only works if it has something to feed,” David said of The Charmery’s expansion, in our profile of the couple last year. Unlike the other shops, the small storefront across from Cross Street Market will feature a walk-up window concept. Signature flavors will include locally inspired favorites like Old Bay Caramel, Maryland Mud, Lemon Stick, and Tell Tale Chocolate.

OPEN

Coelum Cafe, Bar, and Market: This new dining destination in Canton—whose name translates to “sky” or “heaven” in Latin—is fittingly decorated with feather details and lots of lush greenery. Industry veterans Corey Laub and Ryan Thacker opened the restaurant earlier this week in the former home of Gitan Bistro Cru in Canton. The menu pairs batched cocktails and natural wines with seasonal dishes like summer squash risotto, fried green tomatoes, and duck confit. Coelum (pronounced coy-loom) will also offer a retail market stocked with local products like Open Seas Coffee and cupcakes from Slam Bakes.

Ono Poke: Nothing beats a refreshing poke bowl during the dog days of summer. Ono Poke officially opened inside the newly renovated Cross Street Market in Federal Hill last week, offering the authentic Hawaiian delicacy of raw fish topped with sweet and spicy sauces and vegetables. If you still haven’t gotten a chance to check out the upgrades at the market, stop in to try one of Ono’s signature bowls including the “Smooth N Spicy” (ahi tuna, creamy spicy aioli, avocado, cucumber, jalapeno, habanero masago) or the “Lomi Lomi” with salmon and citrus shoyu vinaigrette. Other vendors on deck to open in July include Annoula’s Kitchen, Sobeachy Haitian Cuisine, and a stall slinging Royal Farms chicken.

NEWS

The Bluebird Cocktail Room Turns Two: It’s been two years since Hampden’s literary-themed cocktail haven officially joined the scene. On Sunday, July 7, the bar is celebrating its big birthday accordingly with raffles, discounted drinks, and new menu items. Starting at 12 p.m., Bluebird’s downstairs pub will be offering happy hour specials and half-off its signature Old Fashioneds during brunch. Make your way upstairs when the Cocktail Room opens at 5 p.m. to sample summer sips (new drinks include the watermelon molasses-infused “Waxen Fruit Impends” and vodka-based “Goddess Strikes #2”) and enter into a raffle to win a private cocktail class. Throughout the day, the team will be donating $1 from every cocktail purchased to the nearby Hampden Family Center.

Citron Wins Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator: The wine program at this Pikesville fine-dining den got some national recognition this week when it was listed among the winners of Wine Spectator’s annual Restaurant Awards. Citron was given the Award of Excellence for its well-curated wine list, which features more than 1,700 regional bottles. The restaurant joins the ranks of other previous Baltimore winners including Magdalena, Tagliata, and The Prime Rib.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

TO 7/6: South American Showdown at Bar Vasquez
Speaking of wine, Bar Vasquez in Harbor East is hosting a head-to-head showdown menu as a way to introduce diners to some of South America’s most impressive varieties. The $55 four-course menu features six wine pairings (two for each savory course) ranging from a Mendoza malbec to a classic cabernet franc. Dishes to look out for will include crispy zucchini with caper herb aioli, lobster and corn cakes, wood-grilled Hudson Valley duck breast, and a traditional tres leches cake.

7/6: Independence Weekend Block Party at Fat Tiger
The Fourth of July fireworks will likely all have fizzled out by this weekend, but the bar team behind Fat Tiger and El Tigre at Broadway Market is keeping the party going with this block party from 1-10 p.m. on Saturday. Head to the market’s patio to enjoy an all-American menu of pulled pork, chorizo, beer-can chicken, baked beans, mac and cheese, and jalapeño cornbread paired with icy cocktails made with Baltimore Spirits’ Company gin and amaro.

7/6: Fried Chicken and Champagne at Chez Hugo
It might seem odd, but fried chicken and champagne remains one of the most underrated culinary combinations. For the second year in a row, Chez Hugo is celebrating National Fried Chicken Day by frying up breasts, thighs, drumsticks, and wings and drizzling them in espelette honey. A la carte sides will include buttermilk biscuits, charred kale, barbecue baked beans, and caviar. Specifically for the occasion, bar manager Maximo Guerra has hand-selected four champagne options by the glass, as well as many specialty bubbles by the bottle.

A batch of new beach bars are joining the city’s open-air dining scene this summer, which means it’s the perfect time to throw on a pair of shades and head out for a sun-soaked day drink. Whether you’re into boozy slushies, rum punches, classic daiquiris, or trendy tiki cocktails, these new (and returning) seasonal spots have something to please all palates. In between visits to our coveted dockside destinations and sky-high rooftop bars, enjoy a little change of scenery at one of these outdoor hangouts.

El Tigre: Not only has the Dooby’s team graced us with Old Boy and Fat Tiger inside the new Broadway Market, but they’ve also launched El Tigre—a pan-Latin-inspired tiki bar that expands cocktail service outside onto Broadway Square. Beneath the twinkling lights on the market’s patio, beverage director Tyler DiMarco pours thoughtful creations including the cachaça-forward “Muito Bom,” a classic Planter’s Punch, and the “Viracocha”—a flagship cocktail made with Peruvian pisco, dry gin, tropical fruit juices, and cinnamon. “It embodies who we are and what our mission is,” DiMarco says of the Viracocha, which is named after the ancient Peruvian Incan god of the sun.

Standout sip: The “El Teniente,” an agave-infused riff on the classic Navy Grog that combines Ilegal Mezcal Joven, reposado tequila, aperol, passion fruit puree, baking spices, absinthe, and star anise. 1640 Aliceanna St.

Long Beach Marina: The recently renovated bar and restaurant at this full-service marina in Bowleys Quarters has all of the essentials for an island staycation. In addition to the palm trees and frequent performances by reggae and steel drum bands, the refreshed menu features summer staples like sesame ahi tuna and massive crab cakes. Pair the eats with fruity cocktails including the “Bananarama” (banana rum, peach schnapps, and pineapple juice) and the “Coconut Concussion”—a mix of coconut rum, Sprite, and muddled lime.

Standout sip: The “Mermaid Water” with Captain Morgan spiced rum, pineapple juice, lime juice, and blue curacao. 800 Chester Rd., Bowleys Quarters. 410-335-8602

Ouzo Beach: Ouzo Bay in Harbor East is expanding its footprint across Lancaster Street with this sister venue expected to open next week. Decked out with blue stone, palm trees, a wooden trellis, and tons of tropical plants, the streetside oasis is meant to resemble the courtyard of a Mediterranean-style villa. The bar team is rolling out some creative cocktails for the new concept, including a “Gin & Juice” cocktail made with Baltimore Spirits Company’s Shot Tower Gin and a frozen “Cold Fashioned.”

Standout sip: The “Rose All Day” mixed with ginger and rose water. 1000 Lancaster St. 443-708-5818

Raw Bar: After sitting vacant since last fall, Boathouse Canton has been brought back to life by the team behind Bond Street Social and Barcocina. As its name suggests, the waterfront social spot offers a seafood-focused menu emphasizing raw oysters, rockfish tacos, crab cakes, and lobster rolls. While taking in the harborside sites from the patio and outdoor gazebo, enjoy island-inspired cocktails like hibiscus margaritas, blackberry sangria, Sagamore whiskey lemonade, a classic Bee’s Knees, and a rum runner on tap.

Standout sip: The “Smokin Pyrat” with Pyrat rum, pineapple juice, sour mix, and agave nectar in a cinnamon-smoked glass with a brown sugar rim. 2908 Boston St. 443-708-7961

Raw & Refined: Not to be confused with its neighbor Raw Bar, this Boston Street hideaway adjacent to Swim Club recently debuted with a Caribbean- and Latin American-inspired seafood menu. (Think dishes like tuna tartare cannoli, an open-faced Cubano, and elote-inspired grilled oysters with chili lime butter and cotija.) The eatery’s outdoor patio is ideal for sipping cocktails while watching boats sail across the water at Lighthouse Point. Options include refreshing Grapefruit Crushes, the “Bull & the Berry” (Ketel One botanical cucumber, coconut-berry Red Bull, simple syrup, and fresh berries), and the “Poolside Paloma” with jalapeño-infused tequila and grapefruit.

Standout sip: The “Rude Buoy” made with Tanqueray Ten, St. Germain, pressed lemon, agave, and soda. 2723 Lighthouse Point.

Sandlot: Baltimore’s beach is back for the season with a full schedule of live music, community barbecues, DJ dance parties, salsa lessons, sunset yoga, and much more. Head to Harbor Point to lounge on one of Sandlot’s shaded cabanas while sipping a Spanish G&T, classic Dark & Stormy, or a bitter spritz with prosecco and strawberries. Local breweries and wineries have also made exclusives for the harborside hangout, including Heavy Seas’ “Stay Cay” wheat ale and the sparkling, canned “Bay Rose” from Old Westminster Winery.

Standout sip: The “Sandia Fria” slushie with local rosé, limoncello, watermelon, and honey. 1000 Wills St.

South Point: With a killer view of the Hanover Street Bridge, this Port Covington venue is one of the most beautiful sunset-watching spots in the city. Last summer, the community hub became requisite stop on dog-walking routes, a go-to for life-sized Jenga and Connect Four, and a place to sip cold cocktails and canned wine while listening to live music played on a custom-built stage. It’s expected to officially debut for the season later this month, offering Crushes squeezed to order, 40 different varieties of beer and wine, and a new array of low-carb and gluten-free drinks.

Standout sip: The fresh-squeezed lemonade Crush. 101 W. Dickman St.

Tiki Lee’s Dock Bar: Boaters were delighted by the opening of this nautical newbie at North Point Cove in Sparrows Point, which is equipped with 100 free boat slips. The spinoff of Lee’s Pint & Shell in Canton features strung lights, shaded wooden tables, palm trees, and plenty of sand outside. The island vibe also permeates to the menu, which offers summer eats like jerk chicken and pulled pork alongside a lengthy list of libations. In addition to canned beer and wine, the bar also serves watermelon and creamsicle Crushes, fruity Smirnoff bombs, and a signature “Bayside Tiki” with Rumhaven and coconut cream.

Standout sip: A frozen strawberry daiquiri and pina colada “Pain in the Ass” topped with an additional floater of Captain Morgan black rum. 4309 Shore Drive, Sparrows Point. 443-242-6698

OPEN

Tiki Lee’s: Fans of Lee’s Pint & Shell in Canton will be happy to hear that this new sister-spot has officially debuted on the water in Sparrows Point. The dockside oasis at North Point Cove serves as an ode to owner Dave Carey’s late father, Lee—an avid fisherman who loved spending time relaxing outdoors. During the official grand opening last weekend, revelers flocked to the long-awaited destination to cool off with frozen cocktails and vodka drinks while enjoying summer fare like crab cakes, shrimp salad wraps, and house salads topped with jerk chicken. Diners can experience the hyper-local feel inside (the dining room includes nods to Old Bay, the Orioles, and Bethlehem Steel) or the island vibe outside, which is equipped with palm trees, strung lights, ample boat slips, and plenty of sand to feel between your toes. 4309 Shore Drive, Sparrows Point. 443-242-6698

COMING SOON

Venice Tavern: In the realm of old-school Baltimore dive bars, Venice Tavern is one of the greats. The Highlandtown hangout has been around since 1933, when original owners Frank and Victoria DeSantis opened it in the basement of their home after the repeal of Prohibition. Soon, fourth-generation owner Damion DeSantis will expand the pub’s legacy by opening a second Venice Tavern on Eastern Avenue next to La Scala in Little Italy, according to liquor board documents. The new Venice Tavern marks Damion’s return to the building—which previously housed his former concept Dego Dames before it closed in 2010. This time around, the new space will take after the beloved cash-only flagship in Highlandtown, which has built a reputation for its $3 pints, well-worn pool table, and walls collaged with portraits of boxing champions. 1018 Eastern Ave.

(RE) OPEN

Bluebird Pub: Just a few days after its grand opening on May 10, this refreshed concept below The Bluebird Cocktail Room in Hampden was forced to close due to a flooding issue that caused significant damage to the subterranean space. But now, after a few weeks of cleanup and repairs, the pub is back at it for take two. Resuming normal hours—noon to 10 p.m. Thursday through Sunday and noon to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays—the bar will highlight a menu of elevated pub fare and a strong lineup of whiskey drinks. Pair eats like a foie gras burger and vegetarian broccoli sandwich with cocktails including an Old Grand-Dad bonded bourbon Old Fashioned or a barrel-aged Cachaça Sour shaken with lemon juice and sugarcane. 3600 Hickory Ave. 667-303-3263

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/31: Clavel Pop-Up at Union
Chef Carlos Raba is rounding up his team from Clavel and heading to Union Craft Brewing for this Friday-night pop-up in Hampden. Snag a spot on Union’s patio to kick off the weekend by sipping craft beers and filling up on tacos and ceviche by Clavel. The soundtrack for the free event will be provided by DJ Rezzy Ron. 1700 W. 41st St. 6-9 p.m. Free

5/31: Getcha Lechón Pig Roast at Broadway Market
El Tigre, the outdoor bar program at the newly renovated Broadway Market, is launching food service with a Latin-style pig roast on the market’s patio this Friday. Flock to Fells Point to enjoy a plate of slow-roasted Liberty Delight Farms pork with bottomless beans, rice, tostones, and all the fixins’. In keeping with El Tigre’s tiki theme, bartenders will also be pouring plenty of custom cocktails made with rum and Illegal mezcal. 1640 Aliceanna St. 6-10 p.m. $25

6/2: Coffees of Antioquia Tasting at Vent
If you’re in need of a hangover helper come Sunday, Vent Coffee Roasters is hosting this intimate tasting with its direct trade partner from Antioquia, Colombia. Stop by to sample three Colombian coffees while chatting with experts about coffee production and farming. The event is free, but registration is required in advance. 1700 W. 41st St. 1-2 p.m. Free

SHUT

Baltimore Built Bistro: We’re always sad to report the loss of a corner bar in the city, especially when it’s as short-lived as this Fells Point watering hole. B3 took over the former home of Bad Decisions just under a year ago, and shuttered its doors for good last week. “The team at Baltimore Built Bistro would like to thank everyone for their support,” reads an announcement posted to Facebook on May 24. “Unfortunately, we are closing our doors permanently.” Throughout its 10-month run, the neighborhood spot became known for its next-level bar snacks, loaded burgers, and signature cocktails like the Coldbrew Crush with espresso vodka and salted caramel Baileys. 1928 Fleet St.

Gourmet Again: Pikesville locals are mourning the loss of this decades-old fixture best known for its deli counter, salad bar, prepared foods, and kosher catering. Shoppers visiting the store earlier this week were surprised to see a sign posted to the front door announcing the closure. “The food business is very difficult, cutthroat, and competitive,” owner Andy Hoffman told Jmore earlier this week. “I couldn’t compete with the big guys. I just didn’t have that kind of purchasing power.” The closure is yet another hit to the community, which also said goodbye to mainstay Jewish deli Suburban House in 2017. All catering credits and gift certificates are being honored by former Gourmet Again general manager Jerry Schlichting, who now owns Clean Cuisine catering in Owings Mills. 3713 Old Court Rd., Pikesville.

Red Star Charles Village: This weekend will be the last for diners to chow down on burgers in the wood-stained dining room at Red Star in Charles Village. Marketing and operations manager Willy Dely recently confirmed to the Baltimore Business Journal that the extension of the original Red Star in Fells Point will officially close its doors on June 2. The restaurant opened in the Nine East 33rd development near the Johns Hopkins campus in the summer of 2017, offering a menu of burgers, sandwiches, pizzas, and bar snacks helmed by chef Francisco Lopez. It later became known for hosting weekly pint nights, half-price wine specials, and weekend drag brunches. The original Red Star, as well as its Fells Point sister-spot Waterfront Hotel, are both still going strong. 3224 St. Paul St.

OPEN

Larder: Socle, the Old Goucher food-and-drink complex from Clavel owners Lane Harlan and Matthew Pierce, is officially operating in full swing now that its final concept, Larder, has opened its doors. Joining Harlan’s natural wine bar Fadensonnen and celebrated coffee shop Sophomore Coffee in the renovated carriage house on Maryland Avenue, Larder will specialize in hyper-local dishes prepared by chef Helena del Pesco. Area produce—as well as many ingredients fermented in house—will show up in colorful dishes such as crunchy snap pea and asparagus salad and fig-leaf infused yogurt pudding with roasted peaches. While stopping by for lunch or an early dinner (normal hours will be 11 a.m.-7 p.m.), guests will also be able to peruse shelves stocked with artisan pantry goods from local purveyors like Hex Ferments and Keepwell Vinegar, and some from businesses as far as Oaxaca and San Francisco. 2223 Maryland Ave. 410-982-6246

COMING SOON

Old Boy: A grand opening party for Phil Han’s newest concepts inside Broadway Market has been set for Wednesday, May 15. All of the stalls inside the recently renovatedFells Point institution have been celebrating staggered grand openings since March. Veteran vendors Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, Sophia’s Place, and Sal’s Seafood were the first to premiere, followed by newbie Thai Street. Now, the concepts from Han of Dooby’s are ready to make their debut.

Among them is Old Boy, an authentic Korean eatery whose kitchen will be headed up by Irvin Seo of the popular Haenyo pop-up. In addition, Han’s team will operate a centerpiece bar called Fat Tiger, which is open now serving an all-day menu of coffee, beer, wine, and cocktails. The bar team will also oversee El Tigre—a tiki-inspired play on the Fat Tiger concept that will expand bar service outside to the market’s patio. At the grand opening party, guests will enjoy a soju ice luge at Old Boy, complimentary welcome punch at Fat Tiger, and plenty of tiki drinks from El Tigre outside. 1640 Aliceanna St.

Rock & Toss Crab House: The developers at Greenberg Gibbons are adding yet another eatery to Foundry Row in Owings Mills this summer. The mixed-use development already boasts plenty of fast-casual destinations including Nalley Fresh, Sunset Raw Juice Bar, Mission BBQ, and Zoë’s Kitchen, and now, this Bowie-based seafood spot is also joining the lineup. The 3,060-square-foot restaurant will offer shrimp, baby clams, green mussels, crawfish, and, of course, blue crabs. The entrees arrive covered in signature cajun, lemon pepper, or garlic-butter seasonings. 10100 Reisterstown Rd.

Whole Foods Towson: In other development news, Greenberg Gibbons and Caves Valley Partners have inked a deal with Whole Foods to be the anchor tenant in the forthcoming Towson Row project on the corner of York Road and Towsontown Boulevard. Whole Foods was announced as a tenant years ago, but later pulled out of the ongoing project. Now, the grocery chain is back on board with plans for two levels of parking, a mezzanine space, and an outdoor dining terrace. Construction on the store is expected to begin later this year and it will likely open in late 2021. When complete, the five-acre development will also include 75,000 square feet of retail and residential space, student housing units, luxury apartments, and a 220-room hotel. York Rd. & Towsontown Blvd., Towson.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/11: Diamondback Brewing Mole Stout Release
This weekend, the team from Diamondback Brewing will officially release its new bourbon barrel-aged mole stout, Tal Uno—a special collaboration with local chocolate expert Jinji Fraser of Pure Chocolate by Jinji. The 9-percent ABV beer was aged in Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels for 14 months before being infused with Jinji’s ingredients to produce notes of vanilla, spicy pepper, and dark chocolate. Swing by the South Baltimore brewery from 12-7 p.m. on Saturday to sample the release while mingling with brewers who will be on hand to discuss the yearlong process. There will also be live music by funky-folk band Gene & Friends and special Mexican pizzas fired up in the brewery’s new in-house kitchen. 1215 E. Fort Ave. 443-388-9626

SHUT

Atelier Culinaire: This Little Italy fine-dining den closed its doors late last month. Staffed by culinary students at Stratford University, the restaurant was known as a launchpad for young chefs transitioning into the industry. Regulars at the white tablecloth spot enjoyed classics like the roasted rack of lamb, beef bourguignon, and ginger-crusted salmon. There’s no word yet on what will become of the Stiles street space, which is equipped with a built-in bar and mezzanine level. 806 Stiles St.

Gnocco: After three years in Highlandtown, Gnocco will open for its final night of service this Saturday, May 11. The decision comes as Chef Brian Lavin prepares for a move to the West Coast. Throughout its run, the cozy Spanish and French-influenced neighborhood spot became known for its antipasti, comforting pastas, and one of the best Negronis on this side of the pond. 3734 Fleet St.

Prime Corner: Sadly, the days are also numbered for Hampden’s colorful bodega on the corner of 34th Street and Chestnut Avenue. Owner Tess Russell took to social media last week to announce that the she would be closing the store at the end of the month. “The economics of a grocery are super hard,” Russell recently told the Baltimore Business Journal. “Some months we did great, others were tougher.” In the eight months since it opened, the store became known for its artisan grocery items and pantry products from the likes of Taharka Bros., City Seeds, Donut Alliance, and The Lunchbox Lady. Here’s hoping another local operator will reactivate the neighborhood gathering space, which formerly operated as kid-friendly Play Cafe before Russell took over. 3400 Chestnut Ave.

Walkability was a huge factor for Michael Neall when he decided to open Blue Dog BBQ in the former Heavy Seas Alehouse space, which sits on the corner of Central Avenue and Bank Street near Little Italy.

“One of the first things we did was check out the walk score for our location,” says Neall, who opened Blue Dog with partners Sean Stoll and Jon Royce last October. “It was a 96. That’s about as good as it gets for a business that would rely on foot traffic.”

After months converting the space from a brewpub to a barbecue joint, the team was finally ready to fire up its signature all-wood smoker and welcome the first wave of customers. But just five days before the grand opening, jersey walls were put up along Central Avenue as the city’s Departments of Transportation and Public Works prepared to begin a large-scale infrastructure improvement project in the area—which included installing new subterranean electric, sewage, and plumbing conduits.

“When the barriers went up, our hearts skipped a beat,” Neall says. “We immediately just thought, ‘Okay, how are we going to deal with this?’”

This is a question that many small business owners have been asking themselves in the midst of ongoing development throughout the city. Specifically in the Harbor East and Fells Point areas, where detour signs and traffic cones have become routine, restaurateurs have been struggling to cope with construction projects that have taken years to finish.

Take Sunni Gilliam, who opened Teavolve on the corner of Aliceanna and South Eden streets in 2008. The cafe preceded many of the shiny residences and luxury shops that have since sprouted up in Harbor East, and it’s now stationed in the heart of construction for the new Liberty residences—which will be anchored by a 50,000-square-foot Whole Foods on the ground floor when it debuts this summer.

“We’ve seen some challenges,” Gilliam says. “There’s definitely been a decline in our figures, but we’re very fortunate that people still find a way to get here. They’re still making a point to come in and support us.”

Gilliam mentions the loss of parking on South Eden and Aliceanna Streets as a major deterrent for customers. She speculates that it contributed to the closure of the neighboring Mussel Bar—which shuttered last year, but is reopening as a jazz club this spring. Just a few blocks over in Fells Point, businesses are facing similar issues as a result of the redevelopment in Broadway Square.

“It hasn’t been easy,” says Carrie Podles, co-owner of Alexander’s Tavern on the 700 block of South Broadway. “We’ve lost so much parking, and there doesn’t seem to be any parking replaced. Business was booming four or five years ago, and then it was one thing after another and it just seemed like it was never ending.”

In response to the construction—which began with the Marketplace at Fells Point apartments and continues with the overhaul of Broadway Market—Podles says she has been encouraging customers to use ridesharing platforms when coming in to the restaurant. Additionally, Alexander’s has been amping up its off-site catering to make up for the loss of diners.

A self-proclaimed optimist, Neall at Blue Dog has also been searching for innovative ways to drive business throughout construction. He and his team recently participated in the Baltimore Wing Festival to spread the word about his restaurant, has been promoting their private party room, and has found success using delivery apps like DoorDash and Uber Eats.

Despite the barriers and heavy equipment that will likely surround his barbecue spot until the end of the year, Neall remains positive about how the city has responded to his concerns. He says that officials have been gracious about sending notices of planned outages and potential water shutoffs so that the restaurant can prepare accordingly.

“So often you hear about antagonism between businesses and government, but I haven’t had that experience at all,” he says. “I found that they have been very understanding. We all recognize that this is a needed infrastructure project, and that, if the city is going to progress, it’s going to have to do these types of things.”

He also mentions that the city is working on adding a crosswalk at the corner of Bank and Central so that potential patrons can access the restaurant without having to deal with the extended pedestrian detour.

“When I’m walking down a sidewalk and I see a sign that says ‘sidewalk closed,’ what that says to me, and to any potential customer seeing it, is ‘don’t go there,” he says. “And that’s the direct opposite of what we want.”

Though dealing with construction remains tough, business owners agree that the ongoing projects will benefit the overall vitality of their neighborhoods in the long run.

“We’re fighting the fight,” Podles says. “We just need to make it to the end to enjoy all of the benefits.”

Gilliam sees the light at the end of the tunnel for Harbor East: “It’s going to feel like an entirely new area,” she says. “We were here when hardly anything else was. Before it was stagnant, so we welcome the construction because we know it’s going to pay off big time. We just have to hold on for a couple more months.”

In only a few short months, construction crews have managed to transform the north shed of Broadway Market in Fells Point from a property full of rubble to a bonafide dining destination housing nine local food concepts.

“People like seeing Baltimore City do something meaningful with market spaces,” says Phil Han, the owner of a Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon who is opening two stalls inside the market. “They did a really good job, too. It’s not like they were Band-Aiding or patching up little things. They really found the funding to do something large here, and in a really fast time frame.”

Thanks to Baltimore Public Markets and a team including Development Solutions and PI.KL Studio, the 233-year-old community hub—the city’s oldest existing public market—now boasts a black-and-white aesthetic, more than 100 seats, and a huge outdoor patio in the middle of the square. As stalls begin to open for business (three are expected to be up and running by next week), here are a few things to note.

Vikki’s Fells Point Deli reopens today.

Leading the wave of food concepts making their debut inside the space is veteran vendor Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, a Broadway Market staple since 1983. The beloved breakfast- and-lunch spot officially reopened Tuesday morning at 7 a.m., serving a limited soft-opening menu of its classic diner fare.

“I went from 760 square feet to 320,” owner Vikki Powers said while organizing her stall on Monday afternoon. “So this is going to be an adjustment. We’re probably not going to have the full menu up and running until next week, but we’re trying to get the most important things nailed down.”

One of the most important components of Vikki’s signature sandwiches and breakfast platters is bacon. As the smell of the frying strips permeated throughout the space, Powers broke down the numbers: “We go through about 30 pounds per day,” she said. “So we’ll prep 15 today and do 15 tomorrow.”

The vendor lineup is meant to be a mix of old and new.

Neighborhood regulars will recognize other returning vendors such as Sophia’s Place European Deli, expected to start offering soups and sandwiches by Friday, and Sal’s Seafood, which is slated to serve its first ceviche by early next week.

The veteran stalls are stationed toward the Aliceanna Street entrance, while the new spots are situated on the opposite side of the building. Among them are farmers’ market favorite Thai Street, Hampden-based Indian restaurant The Verandah, Lexington Market mainstay Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, social justice-driven creamery Taharka Bros., and Old Boy—Han’s authentic Korean concept whose kitchen will be headed up by Irvin Seo of the Haenyo pop-up. All of the new concepts are hoping to debut next month.

“It kind of feels like Grand Central Market in Los Angeles,” Han says. “You have the old-school vendors, and then you have some of the new guys coming in and adding this nice balance in the space.”

The all-day bar program will be called Fat Tiger.

Beneath a gleaming skylight in the center of the market is Fat Tiger, Han’s all-day bar concept that sits directly across from Old Boy so that the two can share a kitchen.

“I wanted to incorporate a tiger in some capacity,” Han says of the name. “It was the ’88 summer olympic mascot for Korea, and the tiger is also my Chinese Year sign. We just wanted it to be playful—the idea of a fat tiger isn’t so serious.”

The centerpiece bar will open at 8 a.m. daily, offering cappuccinos, lattes, a New American-inspired weekend brunch menu, and pastries supplied by the Dooby’s team. (Han says that Sundays, his short-lived doughnut pop-up at Cross Street Market, could make a return at Fat Tiger.) There will also be a full menu of beer, wine, and cocktails served all day.

“Fells Point already has a very rich and dynamic bar community,” Han says. “So this is supposed to be more of an amenity bar. If you want that mimosa or Bloody Mary, or if you want to extend your evening and have a nicer cocktail, you can do that with us.”

As temperatures warm up this summer, Han is looking forward to launching a El Tigre—a tiki-inspired play on the Fat Tiger concept that will expand bar service outside to the market’s patio. Though the plan is still in flux, he is toying with the idea of using a shipping container as a homebase for the outdoor bar.

The outdoor patio will be pet-friendly.

Yet another perk of the outdoor space is that it will welcome leashed pets: “We want the residents around Upper Fells, Fells Point, and Patterson Park to make this a destination when they’re out walking,” says Stacey Pack, project manager for Baltimore Public Markets. “We’re also near so many hotels that are pet-friendly, so when folks travel, it’s nice to have the ability to take your animal for a walk and stop to get some coffee and food.”

Aside from water bowls for dogs, the patio will also feature a wooden awning with strung lights, nearly 60 bistro chairs, and six massive communal tables crafted by Station North makerspace Open Works.

The building’s original architecture was preserved in the design.

A hyper-local design team including Sandtown Millworks, Plano-Coudon Construction, Gruver Studios, Goodwood Design, and PI.KL Studio helped to execute the final product, which enhances structural features while adding more modern white tile, black furniture, and hanging lights.

The building’s original interior archways have been preserved, and the arches above the floor-to-ceiling windows—which were previously filled in throughout the ’70s and ’80s—have been restored to their former glory.

With roots dating back to the early 1900s, the building had been vacant for a nearly a decade before construction began last year: “To be able to breathe life into the space and activate it fully is really nice,” Pack says, “especially after it had been sitting vacant for so long.”

The previous Broadway Market vendors operated inside the market’s south shed, which is now being transformed into The Choptank restaurant from Atlas Restaurant Group. Han feels that all of the development adds to the overall vibrancy of the neighborhood.

“I think everyone’s excited,” he says. “Fells Point has historically done well as being this charming neighborhood by the water, so the more it can do to bring people to this area is a huge plus.”

COMING SOON

Maximón: As its name suggests, the Atlas Restaurant Group has a passion for exploring global cuisine. The team has already graced us with Harbor East hotspots such as Greek-focused Ouzo Bay, Italian-influenced Tagliata, and Japanese fine-dining den Azumi. And this summer, it’s conquering Latin America with a new concept opening in the former home of Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore—which also houses Atlas’ Loch Bar, Azumi, and Bygone. Named after a Mayan deity who was a protector of his people, Maximón will draw inspiration from the diversity and romance of Latin American culture. The theme will permeate into the cuisine, cocktails, private tequila tasting room, and 175-seat interior designed by Baltimore’s own Patrick Sutton.

Highlighting stone architecture, wood and marble furniture, and plenty of lush greenery, the 8,000-square-foot dining room will boast a large bar and a stage for Latin American performances. French doors will open up to the 125-seat exterior featuring a Spanish-style courtyard, fountains, and an outdoor bar. Construction on the new restaurant is expected to begin this month, with a slated grand opening date of late summer. 200 International Drive

El Salto: When Glen Burnie residents are in need of a filling tamale or strong margarita, they typically flock to this Ritchie Highway staple that has been around since 1995. Soon after, El Salto opened a second location in Parkville, and now, it’s spreading the Tex-Mex love even further to Perry Hall. Expected to open in time for Cinco de Mayo this spring, the cantina will occupy a 5,000-square-foot space in the Perry Hall Shopping Center off of Ebenezer Road, which has sat vacant since 2006. Diners can expect to sample all of the restaurant’s specialties at the new spot, including its mix-and-match combo platters featuring burritos, enchiladas, tostadas, and chile relleno. 4313 Ebenezer Rd., Perry Hall

CH-CH CHANGES

101 Baltimore: Since opening as 101 Deli Bar in 2017, this Federal Hill hangout has taken the time to find its own identity in a neighborhood full of sports bars and late-night party spots. Last year, 101 dropped the “Deli Bar” from its name in an effort to focus more on its sophisticated snacks, approachable wines, and next-level cocktail program. And now, an interior refresh and new roster of eats and drinks have solidified its reputation as an inclusive spot for neighbors of all ages and backgrounds.

“We listened to the neighborhood and analyzed what was working and what wasn’t,” co-owner Sean White said in a statement. “We just weren’t capturing the full spectrum of the market here, so we wanted to shift the atmosphere and cuisine to meet everyone’s expectations.” A recent interior revamp evokes a more inviting feel with a brick wall behind the bar, more high-top tables, and darker walls to replace the previously stark aesthetic. To go along with the design changes, the bar is also debuting a new menu of playful twists on American classics, including a sunken French bread pizza, tuna burger, and hoagie-inspired salad topped with cold cuts. Though some new bar options have been added, regulars will be happy to hear that the hibiscus mules, 40-oz. rosé bottles, and two-for-one Chambongs will remain staples. 1118 S. Charles St. 443-683-9480

EPICUREAN EVENTS

ONGOING: Broadway Market Pop-Ups Continue

Ahead of the debut of the renovated Broadway Market this spring, vendors are getting to know the neighborhood by popping up at surrounding Fells Point restaurants. You might have noticed Vikki’s Fells Point Deli operating out of Kooper’s Chowhound on Broadway Square last month, and now, a host of other vendors are stopping by The Red Star on Wednesday nights from 5-10 p.m. The Verandah and Thai Street served up their specialties earlier this month, and the next eatery popping up at the restaurant will be Connie’s Chicken & Waffles on Wednesday, February 20. Mark your calendar for the last Wednesday of the month, when Old Boy—a new Korean concept from Dooby’s owner Phil Han—will be giving diners a taste of what’s to come at its new stall inside Broadway Market. 906 S. Wolfe St. 410-675-0212

2/20: Sip & Saute

Local chefs Catina Smith, Heather Smith, and Denzel Mitchell (also of Strength to Love II Farms) are teaming up with the No Boundaries Coalition to host this intimate cooking class at the historic Avenue Market on Pennsylvania Avenue. Throw on an apron and cook three courses with wine pairings provided by Off the Rox, a new shop on Eastern Avenue. The inaugural class will celebrate the three-year anniversary of Fresh at the Avenue, a weekly community-powered produce market that provides fresh food access to residents of the Sandtown community. Proceeds will help to fund Fresh’s SNAP match programs, expand its inventory, and make improvements that will decrease checkout times. 1700 Pennsylvania Ave. 5:30-9 p.m. $75

COMING SOON

Broadway Market: Earlier this week, Mayor Catherine Pugh announced six stalls that will be setting up shop inside the renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point this winter. Slated to debut in February, the north shed of the redesigned public market will house local icon Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, farmers’ market favorite Thai Street, social justice-driven ice cream purveyor Taharka Bros., Hampden-based Indian eatery The Verandah, and Old Boy—an authentic Korean concept from Phil Han of Dooby’s. Han will also operate the market’s centerpiece bar, which will feature an elevated coffee program and brunch menu during the day, and draft beer and cocktails in the evening.

Returning to the revamped space will be longtime vendors Sal’s Seafood, Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, and Sophia’s Place, the European cafe and bakery that first opened in the market in 1986. There is still one stall that has yet to be leased. Once the north shed reopens, construction will begin on the south shed, which will house collaborative seafood spot The Choptank from Atlas Restaurant Group and Captain James Landing. 1640 Aliceanna St.

Lyfe Cafe: Be on the lookout for this new dining destination at The Shops at Kenilworth while checking out the mall’s beloved holiday train garden this season. Expected to open in early 2019 (just in time to get started on those New Year’s resolutions), the healthful spot from local owner Penny Seabolt will feature an all-day menu prepared with ingredients that promote physical and mental wellness (think protein pancakes and waffles, a kale detox salad with lemon-tahini dressing, smoothie bowls, and wellness shots). The eatery is designed to accommodate every major diet—including low-calorie, gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan, and vegetarian—and will also offer meal prep services. The 1,788-square-foot cafe will be located next to Wilkes & Riley on the ground level of the recently-renovated Towson shopping plaza. 800 Kenilworth Drive, Towson

OPEN

The Common Kitchen: The food hall trend—which has taken off in Baltimore with spots like R. House, Mount Vernon Marketplace, and the upcoming Whitehall Mill—has now spread to Clarksville with this new communal space that will house 11 artisan makers. A grand opening celebration is scheduled for this Saturday, November 10, where local schools will perform live music and vendors like Scoop & Paddle ice cream and Indian street food shop Namaste Foodie will offer opening day specials. Located near Food Plenty inside the environmentally sustainable Clarksville Commons, the gathering space will mark the first food hall in all of Howard County. Other stalls to look out for include Egyptian eatery Koshary by Misteka, bubble tea purveyor Royaltea, barbecue joint Smokin’ on the Bayou, and Trifecto—a coffee and juice bar specializing in Ceremony Coffee drinks and colorful acai bowls. 12240 Clarksville Pike, Clarksville. 301-854-2090

Pat’s Select Pizza and Asian Garden: These new BYOB restaurants are opening next door to one another at the Crestridge Center in Cockeysville this month. The eateries are expected to be popular lunch destinations in the development, which features two office buildings and one retail property. Pat’s, a fast-casual pizza chain that is now open, features its signature brick-oven pies alongside flatbreads, burgers, salads, and a lengthy list of pasta dishes. Slated to debut next week, Asian Garden will highlight Chinese, Japanese, and Thai staples ranging from sushi to bowls of lo mein and pad thai. 10151-10155 York Road, Cockeysville

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/12: Sweat: Our World, Your Stage
Everyman Theatre is known for bridging the gap between the food and theater world. The downtown showhouse is continuing that creativity with a Veteran’s Day event at Checkerspot Brewing that ties into the themes of Everyman’s current production, Sweat—a slice-of-life drama about steel mill workers facing a plant shutdown who routinely gather at their neighborhood bar. Make your way to the South Baltimore brewery to sip craft beers while watching scenes from the play, and listening in on a conversation comparing the themes in the script to the current hardships facing our own neighbors. Ten percent of all ticket proceeds will benefit South Baltimore-based nonprofit The Baltimore Station, which works to support homeless veterans and reintegrate them into the workforce. 1399 S. Sharp St. 6-8:30 p.m. $15

11/16: Intercostal Breakdown
Fittingly named after the anatomical term that means “situated between the ribs,” this one-night-only barbecue pop-up, hosted by food writer Amy Langrehr of Charm City Cook, will feature smoked ribs cooked on custom-built cages and grills. Head to Monument City Brewing in Highlandtown to sample meats prepared by chef Patrick Morrow of South Point and chef Damian Mosley of Blacksauce Kitchen. The evening will also feature $5 Monument City beers all night, and Annapolis-based folk rockers Ampersand Stringband playing live from 7:30-9:30 p.m. 1 N. Haven St. Free. 5-10 p.m.

Since opening his Korean-inspired cafe Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon in 2014, Phil Han has witnessed the city’s food scene expand with globally diverse concepts that take diners everywhere from the islands of Thailand to the mountains of Senegal.

“When Dooby’s opened, we played a very fine balancing act of introducing some Korean ingredients, but at the same time making a menu that was a little more approachable for the broader audience,” says Han, who also owns cocktail bar Sugarvale and forthcoming pizza spot Noona’s. “Where we are food-wise as a city has certainly progressed and caught its bearings since then.”

Han made it a priority to reflect that evolution when he was asked to assist with the vendor selection process for the newly renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point. It was announced today that the revamped north shed of the 232-year-old property—between Fleet and Aliceanna streets—will house 10 stalls, both old and new, when it reopens in early 2019.

Aside from new locations for Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, Taharka Bros. Ice Cream, Thai Street, and The Verandah, veteran vendors Sal’s Seafood, Sophia’s Place, and Vikki’s Fells Point Deli will make up the market. Han himself also plans to introduce two new concepts, an all-day centerpiece bar and an authentic Korean eatery called Old Boy.

The Dooby’s spinoff will feature bar seating that allows diners to engage with their servers and learn more about the authentic dishes that Han grew up with. He mentions homestyle options like tonkatsu, a deep-fried pork cutlet, and dakbokkeumtang, spicy chicken braised with vegetables and spices.

“You’ll certainly see modern interpretations throughout the menu,” he says. “But it’s still built so that if my parents were to come in with their friends they would very much feel at home with the dishes that were presented.”

While partially inspired by a classic Korean action film, Old Boy’s name also pays homage to the idea that, as Han has grown older, has has developed a deeper appreciation for the classic dishes that he grew up eating with his family.

“I used to be that kid who would bring a Happy Meal into Korean restaurants,” he recalls. “Now I realize that the food my mom cooked when I was younger is the food that I’m craving more often. This is what I want to eat, and it’s a return of a deeper appreciation and representation of where I came from.”

Not far from Old Boy’s stall will be Han’s yet-to-be-named bar, which will offer an array of cappuccinos and lattes in the morning, as well as house made pastries and its own New American-style brunch menu. Situated under a gleaming skylight, the bar will also serve a menu of beer, wine, and cocktails during the evening hours.

Though they’re only a few hundred square feet, the goal is for both concepts to have distinct and inviting styles—which will be executed by a hyper-local design team that includes PI.KL Studio, Goodwood Design, and Sandtown Millworks.

“With Old Boy, you’ll see a little bit of homage to that old-school Korean look, which generally lends itself to a lot of natural wood tones,” Han says. “We just really want to create this warm space where it feels inviting to come over and sit down.”

The redesigned north shed, which has sat vacant for more than a decade, is expected to debut in February. Following in the summer of 2019 will be the premiere of The Choptank, a collaborative seafood concept from Atlas Restaurant Group and Captain James Landing, which will open in the neighboring south shed.

Aside from reactivating the Fells Point space, Han is enthusiastic about what a concept like this means for the future of the Baltimore food scene.

“I think sometimes people get a little bit too fixated on what’s closing,” he says. “But there’s definitely some positivity and growth happening in Baltimore. It’s an exciting time to see some of these younger food guys getting a shot at a bigger game.”

As kids, brothers Alex and Eric Smith always looked forward to visiting their grandfather—the late H&S Bakery founder and prominent waterfront developer John Paterakis Sr.—at his office on Bond Street in Fells Point. For them, spending the day with their grandfather at work also meant walking one block over to the bustling Broadway Market for lunch.

“It was always packed with people,” recalls Alex, now the founder and owner of Atlas Restaurant Group. “At that time in the late ’80s and early ’90s, both the North and South sheds were open, and there were tons of options. There was a Chinese vendor and a fried chicken guy, and I remember waiting in line to eat at those places as a kid.”

The market has deteriorated significantly in the decades since, but now, Atlas—which operates restaurants including Ouzo Bay, Loch Bar, and Tagliata in Harbor East—has partnered with longtime Canton crab house Captain James Landing to restore the market’s South shed back to its former glory.

“The first thing I did when I moved back to Fells Point after college in 2012 was walk around the neighborhood to really see what was going on,” recalls Eric. “And I just remember this serious sense of sadness to see the state of decay that the market was in. So, when the opportunity arose, it was something we jumped on.”

The brothers had been friendly with Captain James owner Billy Tserkis (Eric says they routinely dine there in the summer), and felt that he would be the perfect partner to launch an authentic crab house concept. As it turns out, Tserkis also has a strong connection to the property. His father, George, operated a traditional Greek bakery inside the market from 1981 to 1983.

“It was called Acropol, which was an abbreviation for Acropolis,” Tserkis shares. “They sold homemade bread, Greek pastries, rice pudding, and stuff like that. I always knew he worked there, but it wasn’t until recently with all of this coming up that I found he actually ran it.”

Though details about the design for the new restaurant, The Choptank, are still in the works, Alex says that the spot will be a fusion of both brands that offers traditional Maryland staples—including the Eastern Shore-style fried chicken that he loved to get at the market for lunch as a kid.

“This wasn’t like KFC,” he remembers. “I used to love fried chicken as a kid, and at the market, they fried a chicken and it was big. So we’re going to have a pressure cooker and do the same thing. We’re also going to make our own ribs, and hard-shell crabs are going to be a big component.”

While the seafood aspect is similar to both Captain James and Atlas’ Loch Bar concept in Harbor East, Alex says the crab house will have its own vibe with a more expansive menu.

The plans for the restaurant are part of the Baltimore Public Market Corporation’s multi-million-dollar revitalization of the historic property that dates back to 1786. Construction on the North shed between Fleet and Aliceanna streets, which has sat vacant for years, is slated to begin in July 2018. Existing tenants operating in the South shed will be offered leases in the redesigned North shed when it opens early next year.

Once that transition occurs, the Atlas team will begin construction on the new restaurant—which will be just under 5,000 square feet and seat 150 guests inside. By comparison, the team says that the space is about the same size as Ouzo Bay. They expect for the restaurant to debut Memorial Day weekend of 2019.

“We’re not looking to put in a five-star restaurant that is going to be $150 per person,” Alex adds. “It’s going to be priced for the neighborhood.”

Community associations have voiced concerns about the prospect of a restaurant group moving into the neighborhood, which is largely comprised of small businesses. Owners are quick to point out the differences between this project and the recent overhaul at Cross Street Market.

“We have nothing to do with the ownership of the market—we’re not writing our own rules,” Alex says. “We’re simply a tenant renting the space. A huge part of the reason we’re doing this is because our grandfather invested capital and fixed up the waterfront at a time when it was industrial and run down. Even though we’re just getting started, this is our small way of reinvesting into the community.”

Tserkis says that he’s looking forward to staying close to Canton, where Captain James has operated for nearly 40 years.

“I grew up in the Fells Point area,” he says. “I didn’t live there, but I might as well have since I was at the restaurant 18 hours a day ever since I was 12 years old. It’s great to be able to stay in a neighborhood with such a historic nature to it.”

Reinvigorating the market and harkening back to its bustling roots is a priority for Atlas, whose lease will extend through the building’s 250-year anniversary in 2036.

“What’s exciting is to get in there and give back to make the neighborhood a little bit stronger,” Eric says. “I go there all the time when the bars are packed with people spilling out. And in the center of all of that chaos, you have this market in total darkness. We just want to bring some light there for the people of Fells Point.”