hall we go, or shall we stay?” That’s a question many baby boomers, empty nesters, and those who find their house too big, may be asking themselves. And if the decision is to move, the next question is: What kind of place do you want and where? Do you want a smaller home on one level, one in an over-55 community with lots of activities, or are you thinking ahead and want a place that offers independent living with more care in the future, namely a Continuing Care Retirement Community (CCRC)?

Anyone who thinks that a CCRC is only for “old folks” hasn’t met the Minks. Susan Minks, 75, is a “Senior Poster Child” for Blakehurst, a CCRC located in Towson. “It’s like living in a five-star resort,” says Susan. “Everyone here is happy and helpful, and you could be busy every minute of the day if you want.”

Susan, a Baltimore native, and her husband Tom, 76, were living in a townhouse half the year and in Florida the other half when they decided to return to Baltimore full time. “At that point, we realized it was time to reassess where we were going to live,” Susan explains. “At first, I thought we were too young to go into a CCRC, but then we thought, if one of us gets sick we’d still be on the same campus or maybe in our condo and a CCRC would save our children a lot of trouble later on.”

When the Minks met with Elizabeth O’Connor, the director of marketing and sales at Blakehurst, O’Connor was unbelievably accommodating about everything they asked for and showed them how an apartment could be renovated. They then knew this was the right place. “And the location is perfect—it’s close to Tom’s children, our country club, doctors, and many of our friends,” says Susan. The Minks had the apartment renovated and moved in in January 2022.

“The staff is incredible. The food is excellent. We just had Smith Island cake that was unbelievable. I’m so happy I don’t have to cook. I made one dinner since we’ve been here and it was terrible,” laughs Susan. The vibe at Blakehurst is very positive. The couple participate in many activities. They attend lectures, use the pool, the gym, walk on the private walking path, and meet friends at the bar and for dinner. The residence offers trips, a putting green, transportation to doctors’ appointments, to the grocery store, and so much more. “Tom plays gin rummy two or three times a week and I’ve signed up for a garden plot. There isn’t a party I haven’t been involved in,” says Susan, who is on the party committee and just joined the hospitality committee. “I just love it.”

O’Connor says, “Just like the Minks, other boomers are arriving at Blakehurst earlier than previous generations. They are not waiting for a health scare to move in.

Is a Continuing Care Retirement Community Right for You?
A CCRC is a type of retirement community that is part independent living, part assisted living, and part skilled nursing home. Today, many communities offer memory care, too. And there’s usually rehabilitation therapy on site. All levels of care are on one campus. According to AARP, a CCRC offers a tiered approach to the aging process, accommodating residents’ changing needs. Upon entering, healthy adults can reside independently in single-family homes, apartments, or condominiums. When assistance with everyday activities becomes necessary, they can move into assisted living (sometimes all they might need is extra help in their apartment), memory care, or nursing care facilities. These communities give older adults the option to live in one location for the duration of their life, with much of their future care already figured out.

A Co-op CCRC
Bill and Paula Lecky had lived in their McLean, Virginia, home for 45 years when their children started constantly saying that they should think about moving. That was four years ago. Bill, now 89 and an accomplished architect who has left his mark in Washington, D.C., (he was the architect of record for the Vietnam Veterans Memorial and the architect of the Korean War Veterans Memorial) says, “I knew I was getting up there in age, and realized maybe we should move, even though Paula at the time was only 76.” With one daughter in Silver Spring and a son in Annapolis, they started their search in Silver Spring, but quickly decided they didn’t want to live there and turned their attention to the Annapolis area.

Bill remembers, “We drove past one community in Annapolis, but said, ‘Keep driving.’” Then they saw Baywoods of Annapolis and wanted to explore further. Besides Baywoods being a CCRC, it’s a resident-owned-and-run co-operative community, where residents provide vital input regarding the operations of the community and have a voice in how it’s run.

“There was one apartment that overlooked the water that interested us. But what really sealed the deal was the woodworking shop.” Bill, who loves making small replicas of animals similar to those made by the Hopi Tribe of the Southwest, was blown away by the shop’s size. “It was five times the size of mine.”

Given Bill’s more than 50 years of experience as an architect, it’s no surprise the couple put a lot of work into making changes to the apartment they bought. They knocked down walls and added lighting, but the most dramatic change was to the porch overlooking the water. “There was a series of windows and doors that we took down and instead put in an eight-foot-high, 14-foot-wide glass door.”

Besides woodworking, Bill makes jewelry and Paula paints. Not gym rats, the Leckys instead prefer taking walks along the water. In addition, Bill has given talks about his years creating the Vietnam Veterans and Korean War Veterans memorials. His architectural expertise has now led to a new gig, consulting with management about future residents’ plans for changes to their apartments. And, oh yes, this busy couple still has time to socialize with their friends at Baywoods.

Rental CCRC
Retia Scott Walker had been an educator for more than 40 years, first at Texas Woman’s University, next at the University of Maryland on the Eastern Shore, and then at the University of Kentucky. Later, her research emphasis was gerontology with a focus on older African Americans, rural elders, older women, and inter-generational issues. In addition, she studied aging in Sweden, Denmark, and the Netherlands.

“When I retired in 2005, my daughter kept asking me to move back to Maryland. For 17 years, I told her I would,” says Walker, who was living in a five-bedroom, three-story home in Kentucky.

“It wasn’t until the pandemic that I felt very lonely and isolated and knew I needed to move. It was funny, one time while visiting my daughter, we took a tour of the Atrium, a CCRC. I told my daughter then; it would be my next home.” In 2022 Walker, now 82, moved to the Atrium.

“While doing my research, I found out how important it is to be part of a community.

That’s what the Atrium provides. Every night I have dinner with the same group. During breakfast it’s open seating and I try to meet new people,” she says. And there are lots of activities at the Atrium. Walker goes to music performances, participates in exercise programs, and goes to lectures. As a matter of fact, she will soon be giving a lecture. Another advantage is that her daughter lives only five blocks away and gets to see Walker several times a week. “I’m very lucky,” she says.

Over 55 Community
Joann Myrland,72, is a semi-retired travel agent. Her husband Paul, 74, is retired. They knew they wanted to move, but the big question was where. “We have a four-bedroom home, and now only use the family room, kitchen, and bedroom, and of course bathrooms,” says Joann, “and I’ve had foot and knee surgery and am tired of the stairs.”

The couple knew they wanted a single-family home with everything on one level, and where there would be no yardwork, all within a 55-plus community. They also had some other requirements. “We have two children who live in Denver and both of us love to travel, so it was very important for an airport be an easy drive,” says Joann. “Other must haves were a clubhouse and activities so we could meet new friends. And if it was near the water, that would be a nice plus.”

They began their search in Delaware, but after realizing how long it would take to get to an airport, it was a no go. “We have made several trips to look at Four Seasons in Kent Island. It really checked off most of our boxes,” says Joann At the time of publication, they had not yet decided.

According to real estate agent Veronica Lawson, an associate broker at Real Broker, LLC, over-55 communities are ready made for people like the Myrlands, for whom physical and emotional wellbeing are key components addressed through clubhouse amenities such as fitness centers and resort-like pools, as well as social clubs that encourage interaction to the degree desired. Most communities also offer walking and bike trails, dog parks, and other outdoor social activities, as well as planned trips to local events such as plays and concerts.

This interaction between neighbors creates a strong sense of community that in turn creates a fun and safe environment. Fifty-five-plus communities are becoming more popular, as many retirees are still very active and looking for engaging communities once retired.

Whatever place someone chooses, O’Connor, the director from Blakehurst, says, “Retirement is a time to continue to engage and maybe even reinvent oneself.”

Your Guide to Regional CCRCs

Looking for the retirement living situation that is just right for you?
Here is our guide to some of the area’s continuing care retirement communities.

Asbury-Solomons Island
11100 Asbury Circle
Solomons, MD 20688
410-205-4501
asbury.org/asbury-solomons

Bayleigh Chase
501 Dutchman’s Lane
Easton, MD 21601
410-673-4405
actsretirement.org/communities/maryland/bayleigh-chase-easton/

BayWoods of Annapolis
7101 Bay Front Drive
Annapolis, MD 21403
410-268-9222
baywoodsofannapolis.com/

Blakehurst
1055 W. Joppa Road
Towson, MD 21204
410-296-2900
Blakehurstlcs.com

Broadmead
13801 York Road
Cockeysville, MD 21030
410-527-1900
broadmead.org

Carroll Lutheran Village
300 St. Luke Circle
Westminster, MD 21158
410-848-0090
clvillage.org

Charlestown Retirement Community
715 Maiden Choice Lane
Catonsville, MD 21228
410-705-7058
ericksonseniorliving.com/charlestown

Edenwald
800 Southerly Road
Towson, MD 21286
410-339-6000
edenwald.org

Fairhaven
7200 Third Avenue
Sykesville, MD 21784
443-300-4047
actsretirement.org/communities/maryland/fairhaven-sykesville/

Ginger Cove Annapolis Life Care
4000 River Crescent Drive
Annapolis, MD 21401
410-266-7300
gingercove.com

Glen Meadows Retirement Community
11630 Glen Arm Road
Glen Arm, MD 21057
410-319-5034
presbyterianseniorliving.org/glen-meadows-retirement-community

Goodwill Retirement Village
891 Dorsey Hotel Road
Grantsville, MD 21536
301-895-5194
goodwillhome.org

Heron Point of Chestertown
501 Campus Avenue
Chestertown, MD 21620
443-214-3556
actsretirement.org/communities/maryland/heron-point-of-chestertown

Lutheran Village at Miller’s Grant
9000 Fathers Legacy
Ellicott City, MD 21042
410-465-2005
millersgrant.org

Maryland Masonic Homes
300 International Circle
Cockeysville, MD 21030
410-316-9129
mdmasonichomes.com

Mercy Ridge
2525 Pot Spring Road
Timonium, MD 21093
410-561-0200
mercyridge.com

Mosaic
450 Willow Lakes Drive
Willow Street, PA 17584
888-893-1423
mosaiclancaster.com

North Oaks
725 Mount Wilson Lane
Pikesville, MD 21208
410-602-0318
northoaksseniorliving.com

Oak Crest Village
8800 Walther Boulevard
Parkville, MD 21234
410-469-8053
ericksonseniorliving.com/oak-crest

Roland Park Place
830 W. 40th Street
Baltimore, MD 21211
410-243-5700
rolandparkplace.org

The Residences at Vantage Point
5400 Vantage Point Road
Columbia, MD 21044
888-680-6324
vantagepointresidences.org

The Village at Augsburg
6811 Campfield Road
Baltimore, MD 21207
410-834-4143
thevillageataugsburg.org

Willow Valley Communities
450 Willow Lakes Drive
Willow Street, PA 17584
717-464-6800
WillowValleyCommunities.org

Todd Conner’s in Fells Point may be known as a Pittsburgh Steelers fan bar, but its new menu embraces its Ravens roots. Get ready for creamy crab dip, Maryland crab cakes, shrimp steamed in Natty Boh, Berger Cookies, and cocktails such as the Egg Custard, an alcoholic twist on Charm City’s favorite snowball.

Christian Wilkins, who owns the bar with his parents, Robert and Debbie Barker, wanted to make the fare “simpler, Baltimore, pub-style,” he says. The newest revision, under the guidance of consulting chef Michael Smearman, condensed the number of items on the menu while delivering a sense of place to customers. Before Wilkins joined the bar in 2015, original owner Nikki Popovich, a staunch black-and-gold fan, encouraged game-day gatherings. When she left the restaurant, Wilkins had no plans to turn away Steelers supporters. “What was I going to do? Kick them out?” he says. “It’s only 16 Sundays.”

In deference to our northern rivals, Wilkins included Pittsburgh pierogis on the menu—half-moon dumplings stuffed with potato and cheese and enveloped in a tangle of sautéed onions. But the Pigtown pierogis we also sampled brought the focus back to Fells Point, where Polish immigrants once flocked to work on the ships of yore. This version got a boost from shards of bacon, tomato relish, and sour cream spiked with seafood seasoning.

The front area of the corner space presents coziness with a 12-seat wooden bar and several high-top tables. A side entrance leads to a separate dining room, ideal if you’re looking for a place to take the kids.

Service is casual, with patrons ordering food at the bar. The evening we stopped by, ska-inspired music like “Old Friend” by Rancid and “Gangsters” by The Special A.K.A. provided a carefree island lilt.

A bratwurst from Baltimore-based Roma added a comforting vibe, too. The plump sausage, poached in Natty Boh and grilled, was nestled in a soft roll with a blanket of sautéed bell peppers, onions, and mushrooms.

Todd Conner’s has long featured mac and cheese, but since the kitchen uses bowtie pasta, Wilkins renamed the dish “Fells Bohtie Mac.” It’s a sumptuous portion that could easily satisfy three or more diners. We added applewood-smoked bacon, for an additional fee, to our cheesy mound. Other extras include hot peppers, fried egg, and lump crab.

Baltimore’s German heritage makes an appearance for dessert. A rectangle of smearcase, a lighter-style cheesecake, hails from Hoehn’s Bakery in Highlandtown, which has been making the family recipe since it opened in 1927. Berger Cookies are another sweet choice. They, too, descended from the hands of German immigrants.

The book The Pittsburgh Steelers Fans’ Bucket List by Scott Brown called Todd Conner’s “one of the most well-known havens” for the team’s enthusiasts. But Baltimoreans shouldn’t throw in the (terrible) towel. There’s a lot for locals to love about this bar.

Annapolis, our state capital, beckons with its adorable shops, fancy sailboats at the City Dock, and grand historic homes and buildings. There’s lots to see and do, but some time during your visit, you’ll need to rest your weary feet and grab a bite. With this in mind, we thought it was time to find out exactly what is available for hungry visitors in the historic district and nearby Eastport. So we set out on a culinary expedition, sampling much of the city’s fare. After ingesting mounds of crab cakes, juicy steaks, and fat sushi rolls, we think you’ll find that our Annapolis restaurant guide gives you a comprehensive overview of the city’s culinary offerings and an assortment of eating places to satisfy your appetite whether you’re taking in the sites by sea or land.

Café Normandie

This cute and cozy Main Street mainstay has been around forever and is wildly popular with locals, maybe because it offers a number of opportunities for decent dining (along with huge portions) at bargain prices. Normandie features French country cuisine, in keeping with its rather cramped, rustic interior of exposed wood beams and its humongous fireplace smack in the middle of the dining room. Choose from the wide selection of crêpes (a buckwheat crêpe stuffed with ratatouille is a favorite) and omelets to accompany a simple salad or charcuterie platter and a glass of wine—a perfect way to dine out without breaking the bank. Best bets for entrées are, unsurprisingly, Normandy-inspired dishes like breast of chicken with apples, veal Normandie with creamy mushroom sauce, or most of the seafood dishes. When the kitchen backs up—as it frequently does—you may find yourself getting antsy for the next course, but the wine always seems to arrive on time. 185 Main St., 410-263-3382

Carrol’s Creek Cafe

The best seat in the house is probably outside—on the deck on a summer afternoon, where you can sip a brew, enjoy a meal, and watch the boat traffic with downtown Annapolis in the background. But it’s pleasant inside Carrol’s Creek, too. This contemporary restaurant has plenty going for it, including its location just over the Eastport bridge. The restaurant’s design makes the most of that location. With plenty of windows facing Spa (originally Carrol’s) Creek and tables on different levels and at different angles, almost everyone has a water view. And as night falls, the view includes the majesty of the U.S. Naval Academy chapel dome and lights from the constant cars on the bridge. Inside, the atmosphere is bustling, but not hurried. The menu is large with traditional seafood and steak, alongside soups, salads, and other light fare. Carrol’s Creek offers an interesting menu option: For $18 more than the price of an entrée, you can also get cream of crab soup, a house salad (mixed greens with bleu cheese, dried cranberries, and walnuts) and a choice of dessert. It’s a fair value for the hungry. The filet mignon is excellent, and the rockfish topped with spinach and scallops over risotto tastes even better than it sounds. Locals and tourists seem to intermingle in this casual, family-friendly atmosphere. 410 Severn Ave., Eastport, 410-263-8102

The Chart House

Talk about a room with a view. This waterside restaurant on Spa Creek captures a postcard-picture look at historic Annapolis from its Eastport vantage point. Yes, it’s a chain, but it’s also a tourist magnet with its great location. We’ve found that it’s worth a stop if you focus on appetizers, fresh fish, and certain seafood dishes. For Marylanders, the crab entrées, especially the crab cakes, may not measure up to our inbred expectations. But the blue crab dip with crostini is an excellent nosh to bolster tired spirits after walking around our state capital. Kimchi calamari with crisp vegetables is another delicious way to revive your energy. In the open, comfortable dining room, you can count on the kitchen to deliver wonderfully prepared fresh fish, like a dynamite cedar-wrapped King salmon in a fig vinaigrette. You also won’t go wrong with baked shrimp topped with crab. There’s a salad bar, but the chopped spinach salad on the menu is a beautiful mix of shredded greens, mushrooms, and radishes with hot bacon dressing. 300 Second St., Eastport, 410-268-7166

Flamant

Seasonally sourced ingredients coupled with classic European techniques are the recipe for success at this West Annapolis gem. The intimate dining space features a partially open kitchen that gives diners a front-row seat to see Belgian chef Frederik De Pue in action. Snack on red snapper tartare and blue crab rolls before moving on to larger entrees like lacquered cornish hen and beef stroganoff with hanger steak and local mushrooms. Dessert is not to be skipped, as pretty pastries abound—ranging from a goat cheese tart to a caramelized banana doughnut with Grand Marnier gelato. 17 Annapolis St. 410-264-0274

Galway Bay

After a relaxed stroll around the City Dock, consider hoofing up toward State Circle and popping into Galway Bay; the appetite you build up will be more than satisfied. This replica of a typical Connaught pub boasts a fine bar and plenty of booths in which to relax with a pint and friends. But it also contains a spacious, casual dining room that can accommodate large parties and families. The food at Galway Bay is centered on pub fare with mass appeal. The menu abounds with classics like shepherd’s pie and fish and chips, but also more ambitious items like fresh fish and beef short ribs. And there are many other Celtic dishes such as Irish curry fries or whiskey-and-tomato soup. It’s so much the better with what we can honestly say is a perfectly pulled pint. 63 Maryland Ave., 410-263-8333

Harry Browne’s

Harry Browne’s offers a window on Annapolis—literally for those lucky enough to be seated at one of the few front tables—and figuratively for those within. This is a city staple, a longtime gathering spot for legislators, lobbyists, lawyers, and reporters. But on a cool weekend, the crowd is early baby-boomer couples and foursomes. Those who do get a window table have the State House dome in clear view and a front row seat on the passing State Circle parade of tourists and teens. Other diners enjoy a casually sophisticated room with dark wood, leaded glass, and striking chandeliers. Wherever you sit, you are treated to excellent food infused with unusual flavors that are beautifully presented. Amid many great tastes, the rack of lamb stands out for its richness, its size, and its melt-in-your-mouth tenderness, and for the accompanying stuffed eggplant, garlic mashed potatoes, and mint coulis. The salmon, one of the specials, has a gentle sweetness that makes it special with artichoke hearts and grape tomatoes in a light sauce. The homemade ice cream at Harry Browne’s is notable, too. There isn’t anything plain about the vanilla that goes with the delicate creme brulee. The friendly, unhurried yet professional service, stunning atmosphere, and culinary intrigue make Harry Browne’s a thoroughly enjoyable evening worth lingering over. 66 State Circle, 410-263-4332

Joss Café and Sushi Bar

“This is the best food I’ve had in ages,” a happy diner, two tables down, remarks dreamily. Hey, it’s hard not to eavesdrop at Joss Café and Sushi Bar, where the tables are packed cheek-by-jowl into a warren of well-used dining rooms, and the clients—lots of them—are usually rhapsodizing about the food. They couldn’t care less about the modest surroundings or the crowds—they’re here for the sushi. And what sushi it is: fat, silky toro; creamy, unctuous uni; crisp-crunchy baby octopus. Pretty much everything you order here, whether it’s one of the sparkling fresh seaweed salads or a selection from the daunting array of rolls, is guaranteed to be perfectly prepared. The menu is staggering, so we usually zoom in on a few favorites. We love the maguro poke, chopped raw tuna marinated in soy and sesame oil, and blended with pine nuts, sesame seeds, Japanese pepper, and scallions. The shiitake tempura is an exemplar of umami—that elusive, mysterious fifth taste best described as heavenly-funky. Bite into a cloud of batter to the earthy mushroom beneath, and you’ll find heaven indeed. And if you’re an adventurous diner, nothing could be better than the pork shumai. These light, little dumpling bombs, imbued with fiery wasabi, provide an instant, overwhelming blast of intense heat, which miraculously fades in seconds. Everything is pretty wow here, including the service, faster than a speeding bullet train. 195 Main St., 410-263-4688

Lemongrass

An easygoing, Far-East atmosphere and food that practically pops with flavor are the two characteristics that define Lemongrass. Service is friendly and welcoming, and we are immediately at ease in a dining room that is bright and cheery without being kitsch or formal. The menu overflows with Thai-inspired cooking, and everything is scrumptious. This is not a place for the meek of palate, however; spicy means spicy on this menu, and the ingredients are so fresh that acids tingle while sweet and salty dance jubilantly across one’s tongue. A great example is the pa ram long song, a bewitching amalgam of chicken breast and light yellow curry that sings with a little sweetness, zings with citrus, and stings, but just ever so little, with spice. Another home run is the spicy eggplant. A generous plateful of Asian eggplant that has been lightly fried and doused in garlic sauce, then sprinkled with pepper and basil, this plate satisfies a craving for the savoriness of fried food without paying the price in heavy fats, fatty fillings, or soggy leftovers for next day’s lunch. Not much is on offer for dessert, but we will say the mango sticky rice at Lemongrass is the best we’ve tasted in Maryland. 167 West St., 410-280-0086

Les Folies Brasserie

Take a trip to Paris by way of Naptown at this 20-year-old neighborhood standby. Decorated with burgundy banquettes, white linen tablecloths, and Bohemian art pieces, the restaurant has become a is a go-to spot for French onion soup and classic coq au vin, but it also features flavorful pastas and fresh fish ranging from salmon to snapper. Other filling favorites include the filet mignon with red wine shallots and classic moules frites with white wine-steamed mussels and crispy French fries. Be sure to order the scratch-made souffle ahead of time, as each one takes upward of 45 minutes to prepare. 2552 Riva Rd. 410-573-0970

Level

At Level, the happy hour, with its $6 artisanal cocktails—made with such quirky ingredients as egg white and baked apple bitters, lime foam, and fresh persimmon—and similarly priced small plates of gnocchi with green peas, grilled eggplant, or hummus with roasted pear seamlessly blends into the dinner hour. You soon realize that Level is happy at all hours. And its small plates can add up to a wide array of flavors, from a duck torchon with a purée of garlic to the dessert-you-can-drink concoction of dark, malty Belgian black ale, served in a Mason jar with a scoop of ice cream. Level’s two bars—upstairs and down—are consistently crowded after work, and it recently added a second dining room. A chalkboard, pictured right, on one of the exposed-brick walls lists words related to the headings Food, Drink, and Socialize. It’s a list—with the addition of affordable—that will keep us returning. 69 West St. 410-268-0003

Lewnes’ Steakhouse

The Lewnes family has been at this Eastport corner since 1921, the last 14 years as a steakhouse. Recently expanded—an old family home became another dining room—Lewnes’ seems to hold its own against the upscale chain steakhouse nearby. The new space is more open than the original dining room. Tables are well-spaced, windows look into the wine room, and vintage photos give this somewhat clubby space a homey feel. The windows into the wine room afford a view of hundreds of bottles. Dabbling on this wine list is not for the faint-hearted; it is huge, sophisticated, and high-end, though there are half bottles and wines by the glass plus waiters who gladly make recommendations. The steaks are a la carte; vegetables and salads, family style, with half orders available. We recommend the small filet mignon—the flavor is huge—although the New York strip is not as tender or as flavorful. Although beef is the star, the menu includes almost as many seafood items. Service is knowledgeable and efficient, though at times, food arrives too quickly. We leave with an invitation to return from a server, a nice touch and one more reason Lewnes’ remains an Annapolis tradition. 401 Fourth St., Eastport, 410-263-1617

Luna Blu

The only reason not to order the $35 dinner special Luna Blu offers—appetizer, salad, entrée, and dessert from the regular menu—would be that you weren’t very hungry. But that could change once you got started, because the food just keeps getting better with each course in this comfortable and welcoming Italian restaurant. Chef/owner Ivano Scotto puts the “Napoli” in Annapolis, and vice versa, literally wrapping the cuisine of his native Italian Campania region around Maryland classics, and garnishing them with whimsy. Southern Italy melts atop Southern Maryland in the fried green tomatoes topped with fresh mozzarella, but Luna Blu also offers the straight-up Caprese original. The entrée choices are surprising for this relatively small restaurant—with a risotto of the day, as well as pastas, sautéed chicken breast or veal. Seafood is plentiful: A grilled salmon with spinach entrée includes a generous dividend of scallops and lump crab scattered on top, all of it enveloped in a richly flavorful cream sauce. That same sauce binds spaghetti and prosciutto in the carbonara, a decadent dish that probably should be enjoyed in moderation—if you can exercise restraint. But pacing yourself will pay off when it’s time for dessert, which is so good that it is worth coming to Luna Blu just for that. Go for the sophisticated zabaglione or classic tiramisu. Lunch offerings include a more modest pizza-and-sandwich menu. A bonus at this unpretentious place—children are welcome, and servers helpfully suggest a smaller $10 pasta portion for a child. It will provide enough for his dad’s lunch the next day. 36 West St., Annapolis, 410-267-9950

Metropolitan Kitchen & Lounge

This neighborhood hangout is known for hosting cover bands, tribute groups, and open mic nights—and the food is equally as appealing as the live entertainment. Worldly wines and craft cocktails (the “Suits and Ladders” fuses bourbon with aperol and honey) pair nicely with small plates and customizable charcuterie boards. There are also burgers, flatbreads, and plenty of larger entrees if you’re going the solo route. Sample standouts including cedar salmon, vegan jambalaya, and rockfish imperial with charred lemon beurre blanc. 175 West St. 410-280-5160

O’Learys Seafood

Insofar as “Annapolis seafood restaurant” usually signifies crab dip, crab soup, and, well, crabs, O’Learys breaks the mold. In a wood-beamed dining room that manages to exude buzz and calm at the same time, fish gets treatment that is refined but never fussy. “Close your eyes and point,” a waiter says when asked which appetizers are excellent, and so far he hasn’t been proven wrong. It’s hard to imagine doing better than two perfectly cooked, moist scallops bundled into phyllo and accented by pesto. There’s nothing innovative about the three preparations in the tuna trio—one seared piece, one pile of tartare tossed with soy, and one generous slab of sashimi—but the fish, impeccably fresh, needs no fireworks. (The silver chopsticks on the side are a lovely touch.) For entrées, it’s all about the extra details. A crispy rockfish is elevated by a tomato-cilantro salsa, sauteed shrimp, and chipotle aioli. The crab cakes are good in a city where they must be; one bite through to the bottom reveals they have been delightfully crisped, and you wonder why everybody doesn’t do that. Desserts deliver, too, especially a seasonal berry shortcake with fresh whipped cream. Two thoughts linger after you’re out the door: Why didn’t we order two slices, and when can we make reservations again? 310 Third St., Eastport, 410-263-0884

Osteria 177

This luxurious Italian-Mediterranean restaurant—a sister-spot to Arturo’s Trattoria in Glen Burnie—inhabits a prime location on Main and Conduit streets in the heart of Annapolis. Opened in November 2006, its décor is reminiscent of a regal old New York restaurant with high ceilings and ample booths. Chandeliers glitter, original paintings hang from the walls, and angular, high-backed white chairs give the place a contemporary look. While it’s clear that chef/owner Arturo Ottaviano put a lot of thought into this décor, it’s even more apparent that tremendous effort goes into everything that comes out of the kitchen. From the classic calamari to a salad of shaved parmesan and bresaola (cured beef) with arugula, to the grilled salmon in a lemon-butter sauce, each dish is prepared with great skill and care. A duck breast in pear reduction and a veal chop stuffed with fontinella and prosciutto could not be more succulent. A buttery branzino, a Mediterranean sea bass, is cooked perfectly and expertly filleted at the table. Dinner includes fine Italian wines by the glass and continual refills of sparkling mineral water. A splendid meal with fine service ends with tiramisu, hiding delightful cherries in the bottom, and a lovely dark and white chocolate mousse. 177 Main St., 410-267-7700

Paul’s Homewood Cafe

Paul’s Homewood Café is one Annapolis restaurant where you don’t go for the view. Unless, that is, you like to watch traffic whiz by on busy West Street and take in the gas station, transmission repair place, and bail bondsman’s office across the street. But do come for the food. Paul’s has been at this spot for 70 years, most of that time as a diner. After a recent renovation and expansion, however, Paul’s is a white-tablecloth restaurant at dinnertime and offers exquisite food, much of it Greek. While the décor is sleek and new, the menu leans to traditional dishes, such as lamb kebab, crab cakes, fish specials, pastas, a huge list of Greek appetizers and, of course, Greek salad. All are very good, as is the service. The manageable wine list features the products of what it describes as small and independent vintners. The bottles in racks and on shelves contribute to the attractive surroundings. There is a lot of bustle—the kitchen opens onto one dining room, which also includes the bar—a high table turnover, and, consequently, a parade of food being hurried to diners. Paul’s is quite busy, and we can see why. We are told there are a lot of regulars. But diners do not seem rushed. It’s a comfortable place to pause over a drink, savor your meal, and enjoy your coffee after some wonderful desserts. 919 West St., 410-267-7891

Preserve

We won’t soon forget the palate-pleasing and fresh-breath-destroying meal we recently enjoyed at this 3-year-old treasure, and not just because the leftover kimchi we took home after dinner stunk up the car with the smell of garlic. As the name suggests, pickling is the not-so-secret weapon here, with husband-and-wife team Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman obsessively pickling the kimchi. Milder than many Asian versions we’ve tried, it’s just as flavorful, and it makes a perfect appetizer, side, or snack. Indeed, pickled pleasures are used throughout the small-but-bold menu. Curtido, a Salvadorian-style fermented cabbage, goes perfectly with Relajo sausage and grain pasta, one of a dozen starters. Kimchi spices the broth in the gnocchi; dill pickles are served with the exquisitely prepared rockfish; pickled onions grace the glazed beef rice bowl. Preserve sells pickled goods in jars, too, so your vehicle’s new-car smell will be safe. 164 Main St. 443-598-6920

Reynolds Tavern

Eclectic
The elegant dining rooms in one of the town’s oldest buildings remind you why you’re in the Colonial capital—to get a taste of its charms. It’s all about capturing the grandeur of the past in an authentic setting. And what better way to savor the experience than with an English tea. There are several choices, including afternoon tea (an assortment of sweet and savory nibbles), champagne tea (a glass of bubbly and chocolate-covered strawberries with the afternoon tea), and high tea (choice of soup, salad, or quiche with tea). The treats with the tea are hit and miss—lemon squares, mushroom tarts, macaroons, and cucumber sandwiches are dainty and delicious; but the quiche Lorraine was too soggy and the scones too dry on one visit. The tavern also has lunch (such as turkey Reuben and crab cake sandwich) and dinner (including Cajun shrimp and steak frites) if you want to go a more traditional route. 7 Church Circle, 410-295-9555

Severn Inn

Take in postcard vistas of Annapolis, the Naval Academy, and the Severn River while enjoying fine dining and a great wine list at this longtime favorite. Consisting of small plates, raw bar favorites, salads, steaks, and seafood, the menu is ideal for any occasion. Start things off with tuna poke or grilled sourdough toast topped with avocado, radish, sesame oil, and lemon aioli. Appetizers for the table (a crowd-pleasing sampler features sweet chili wings, yucca tots, and deviled eggs) are also plentiful. Entrees include Maryland favorites like fried chicken with Chesapeake white sauce, South Carolina wreckfish with corn cream and sauteed baby kale, and stellar surf and turf. During the warmer months, grab a seat on the outdoor deck to watch the sunset over the river while sipping a sweet Orange Crush. 1993 Baltimore Annapolis Blvd. 410-349-4000

Treaty of Paris Restaurant

The Treaty of Paris Restaurant at the Maryland Inn is surely a contender for the capital’s most romantic dining room with its fireplaces, toile drapes, crisp white linens, and subtle lighting reminiscent of the days when America’s forefathers supped there. On a weekend evening not in high tourist season, the Treaty of Paris was sadly underutilized. Nothing in our experience there warranted a lack of diners. In addition to beautiful surroundings, the restaurant offers friendly and attentive service, and a traditional menu excellently prepared and reasonably priced. The popovers that spill from the breadbasket are a stand out, crusty on the outside, warm and soft inside. The menu is filled with Maryland favorites—crab cakes, rockfish, salmon, shrimp, and steak. The two crab cakes are light and flavorful, broiled as ordered without being dry. The rockfish served over braised spinach in a light white sauce is a thoroughly satisfying combination. Our meal is leisurely, capped by desserts made in house: crème brûlée and chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream. Tradition has its virtues, and Treaty of Paris seems to be mining the feel and flavor of a bygone era for the benefit of the here and now. More people should partake. Maryland Inn, 16 Church Circle, 410-216-6340

Tsunami

The best part about this hip Annapolis restaurant is how it lives up to its concept of Asian fusion cuisine—that “East meets West” marriage of unlikely ingredients, flavors, and cooking styles. In what otherwise is a slightly cramped, noisy restaurant, where the large light globes are turned down so low it’s hard to read the menu, the food and service deserve their own spotlight. A generous appetizer of popcorn-sized fried shrimp is transformed in an addictive Japanese tempura batter, while spring rolls are stuffed with avocado and ginger soy. Appetizers come with an unannounced bonus of crisp salads of greens and curlicues of raw beets and carrots in lime dressing. Bibb tacos are filled with lobster and miso butter, while wok-seared scallops sit on watercress with orange and vanilla salt and pepper. Generous desserts include bananas fried in thin, crispy lumpia wrappers (think egg roll), served with ice cream infused with a subtle ginger flavor. A delicious lychee sorbet disappears too fast as it melts into a fruity lime soup. You can’t get more exotic than that, just two blocks from the Maryland State House. 51 West St., 410-990-9868

Vin 909

Italian
The word “charming” comes to mind as you enter this cozy cottage-cum-wine bar that’s in the Annapolis area, though it’s well worth a visit whatever county you’re coming from. Inexpensive glasses of wine are the focal point here, but the brick-oven pizza, hearty meatball sandwiches, and, when last we visited, a seasonal dish of clams with pumpkin in curry cream broth also deserve top billing. This hideaway is the perfect place for a first date—or 100th date. When we went, we took barstools at the open kitchen next to a regular who told us he eats there at least three times a week. It can be a challenge to get a table at this no-reservations restaurant, so we suggest going for lunch—the menu is no different than at dinner. Just beware the boat shows! 909 Bay Ridge Ave. 410-990-1846

Outside of Main Street, the dining scene in Ellicott City can be summed up in two words: strip malls. In a land where private residences are neatly sequestered away from the businesses, what is lost in curb appeal is at least made up for with ample parking. But the cookie-cutter commercial facades can also belie engaging, family-oriented service and some truly inventive cuisine, aimed at the demographic sweet spot in these middle- to upper-class suburbs. The White Oak Tavern is such a place, having been a local award-winning hotspot since its opening four years ago.

Tucked in the back corner of the Enchanted Forest shopping center, the nondescript glass storefront opens into a surprisingly airy space with lots of dark wood, elevated dining areas, a sizable patio, and a wraparound bar serving as a focal point. The space feels welcoming, industrial, and modern, all at once, a carefully crafted iteration of the gastropub concept that has proven to be so successful in HoCo. Beer is thus taken seriously here—more than 40 well-curated taps, with a diverse range of styles, plus a heavy representation of local beers. There is even a free-to-join mug club to help keep track of one’s journey through the rotating selections.

The menu continues the theme of approachable with a dash of esoteric, using ingredients from numerous farms in Maryland and Pennsylvania. Turned-up comfort and bar-food mainstays compose the bulk of options, with influences and styles freely intermingling. Flour tortilla tacos are filled with smoked chicken (free-range, of course) that has been curried with Indian spices and dressed in yogurt and chutney, and fried calamari gets treated to a savory miso aioli.

White Oak
feels welcoming and modern, a carefully crafted iteration of the gastropub concept.

Other dishes are simply next-level versions of themselves—Caesar salad appears pretty straightforward, but the house-made dressing is subtly balanced and perfectly coated on each pleasingly crisp chunk of romaine. Mac-n-cheese is made with orecchiette pasta and house-made Italian sausage redolent with fennel, luscious Parmesan cream sauce, and a healthy drizzle of pomegranate reduction. Chili cheese fries sub the shredded stuff for a from-scratch beer cheese sauce and a deeply flavored, faintly smoky-spicy mole-based chili further amplified with grass-fed ground beef, as well as coffee-rubbed smoked brisket (both from a farm in Baltimore County). The coffee is even from local roaster Zeke’s. It’s a stacking of ingredients that nicely summarizes what the menu is all about.

That same amazing chili is also listed as a soup, along with a vegetarian Hungarian mushroom soup that is loaded with both thick slices of mushrooms and darkly sweet paprika. There are several items that seem of the “just happen to be vegetarian” variety, including fried risotto balls with pineapple salsa, wild mushroom and blue cheese tarts, a “cheesesteak” made of mushrooms, chili cilantro slaw, and a lot of olive sofrito for an extra punch of umami, and spaghetti squash in roasted garlic sauce. The chef suggests adding chicken to that last dish, driving the point home that these dishes are made to be enjoyed for no other reason than that they are enjoyable.

Not many places delve into house-made pasta, but White Oak gives it a whirl, albeit in a limited scope. Fettucine serves as a base for a Stroganoff with beer-mustard spiked cream sauce, and, again, local grass-fed brisket, except it’s braised here.

If there is a must-try dish, it has to be the General Jorge’s Chicken. The name suggests Chinese-Mexican fusion, which it is, with just a whisper of coating on the chicken chunks, pleasantly toothsome udon noodles, and a glaze that is somewhat sweet, a tiny bit spicy, and bright with citrus essence.

Staff here leans more toward a tavern experience, all sharing good-natured earnestness, perhaps possessing of varying levels of expertise and polish, but seemingly glad to be there and eager to help. Bartenders occupy the top level, being expertly knowledgeable about both beverage offerings and the food. But this is the type of place where everyone says hello, thank you, and good-bye.

Locals no doubt feel further embraced with numerous daily and weekly specials, including “Kids Eat Free” on Mondays and all-day happy hour on Wednesdays. But the best-kept secret of all may be brunch, which is exceedingly rare in that it is served seven days a week. And it is not simply that breakfast-y selections are available all week—true hardcore brunchers will appreciate that bottomless Bloody Marys, mimosas, and sangria are also part of the deal, every single day.

THE WHITE OAK TAVERN 10030 Baltimore National Pike, Ellicott City, 410-680-8974.
PRICES: Appetizers and small plates: $4-15; entrees: $11-26; desserts: $6-7. AMBIANCE: Casual.

From slaving over cranberry sauce and pounding mashed potatoes to disinfecting dishes and setting the seating arrangement, hosting Thanksgiving dinner can start to feel more like a chore and less like a treat. That’s why more and more families are choosing to abandon their aprons and dine out on Turkey Day. And with decadent dishes, boundless buffets, and multi-course meals, these Baltimore restaurants are making it easy to kiss the kitchen goodbye this Thanksgiving.

The Manor Tavern: This Monkton mainstay is serving a Thanksgiving buffet with tons of seasonal favorites, including apple harvest salad, glazed sweet potatoes, mac and cheese, oven-roasted local turkey, brown sugar glazed ham, house-made cranberry sauce, roasted prime rib, and tons of assorted breads and desserts. There are seating times at 12:30, 3:00, and 5:30 p.m., and the meal is $41.95 for adults and $16.95 for children (3-12). 15819 Old York Rd., 410-771-8155

Baldwin’s Station: Feast your stomach and your eyes at this rustic restaurant overlooking the Patapsco River. Open from 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Baldwin’s will serve individually plated meals, like a traditional turkey plate and other options on the fall menu. Don’t miss out on the maple leaf duck breast or the bisque made with slow-roasted squash, topped with a touch of ginger, cinnamon, and maple syrup, and garnished with apple compote, fried sage, and star anise. 7618 Main St., Sykesville, 410-795-1041

The Capital Grille: The luxurious dining room makes this steakhouse a perfect escape from jam-packed, elbow-bumping Thanksgiving dinners. The Capital Grille will serve a $42 prix-fixe meal that includes dishes like slow-roasted turkey with brioche stuffing, French green beans with Marcona almonds and cranberry pear chutney, and Sam’s special mashed potatoes. The dinner is $15 for kids, and you can add on the pumpkin cheesecake dessert for an extra $10. 500 E Pratt St.,443-703-4064

Cafe Troia: Baltimoreans flock to this Towson restaurant to satisfy all kinds of comfort food cravings. Starting at 1 p.m., Cafe Troia will host a prix-fixe Thanksgiving dinner with roasted turkey, gravy, yams, whipped potatoes, string beans, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie. The meal is $40 for adults and $20 for kids, and the a la carte menu is also available for those who want to mix and match their favorite dishes. 31 Allegheny Ave., 410-337-0133

The Oregon Grille: Hop on the gravy train and head to this Hunt Valley restaurant for a Turkey Day feast. From 1-8 p.m., the restaurant will serve a special, three-course menu that consists of dishes like like butternut squash soup, turkey, pan gravy, mashed potatoes, herb stuffing, candied sweet potatoes, pumpkin cheesecake, and pecan pie. Dishes from the regular dinner menu are also available, and the three course option is $55 for adults and $35 for kids.1201 Shawan Rd., Cockeysville, 410-771-0505

Mt. Washington Tavern: Starting at 2 p.m., this neighborhood go-to will host a feast complete with everything from martinis to ‘Grandma’s’ dressing. Order from the full dinner menu with added dishes like honey-glazed ham, turkey entrees, and traditional Thanksgiving sides. Or opt for the all-you-can-eat buffet with traditional sliced turkey with gravy, sausage and vegetarian stuffing, fingerling potatoes, sautéed green beans, and tons of other family-style faves. 5700 Newbury St., 410-367-6903

Victoria Gastro Pub: This Howard County restaurant serves up pub-style dishes that never disappoint. From 11 am-9 p.m., try the prix-fixe menu and add on a la carte Thanksgiving sides. Guests choose from entrees like roast maple turkey, sweet potato gnocchi, turkey pâté de campagne, and Brussels sprouts topped with bacon, sweet chili soy vinaigrette, sesame and Sriracha aioli. Choose two courses for $32 or three courses for $42. 8201 Snowden River Parkway, Columbia, 410-750-1880

Chez Hugo: This downtown Baltimore bistro is whipping up creative twists on traditional Thanksgiving dishes. The prix-fixe Thanksgiving menu is $65 for adults and $20 for children and features delicious dishes like pumpkin and bacon soup, roasted turkey breast with hay cream gravy, sourdough stuffing, and creamed spinach with garlic, onions, and Comté cheese. 206 E Redwood St., 443-438-3002

Rusty Scupper Restaurant and Bar: From families reunions to Friendsgiving feasts, this harbor-side restaurant is perfect for large groups. The menu features traditional dishes like carved roast turkey, honey-glazed ham, and herb-crusted roast prime rib. Adding a Maryland twist, Rusty Scupper will also offer seafood-inspired dishes such as roasted salmon with crabmeat, sautéed Prince Edward Island mussels with marinara sauce, and a raw bar with fresh oysters. The buffet is $56.95 for adults and $28.95 for children (under 10), and reservations are required. 402 Key Highway, 410-727-3678

Zeke’s Coffee: This beloved Northeast Baltimore cafe is going beyond coffee this Thanksgiving. From 6 a.m.-12 p.m, guests can dig into brunch specials like chicken sliders with fried eggs, biscuits with gravy and fried eggs, apple cranberry pancakes, and flavorful maple sausage links. Pre-game your Thanksgiving the only way we know how—with more food. 4719 Harford Rd., 410-254-0122

Severn Inn: Pair scrumptious food with scenic views at this Anne Arundel County restaurant. The Thanksgiving buffet includes dishes like roasted turkey and gravy, prime rib, crab cakes with fried green tomatoes and corn salad, mashed potatoes, and macaroni and cheese. End the meal with a sweet seasonal pie in flavors like pumpkin pie, apple pie, and apple cobbler. Seating times are at 12, 2:45, and 5 p.m., and the buffet is $72.95 for adults and $26.95 for children (ages 5-12). 1993 Baltimore Annapolis Blvd, Annapolis, 410-349-4000

Charleston: Gather at this award-winning restaurant to celebrate with Chef Cindy Wolf’s prix-fixe Thanksgiving menu for $85 per person. Dishes to look out for include butternut squash and andouille sausage soup, braised beef short rib with yukon gold potato puree, roasted turkey breast with turkey leg confit, pecan stuffing, and roasted sweet corn. Make sure you save room for dessert with options like pecan tart with bourbon caramel, pumpkin cheesecake with gingersnap crust and cranberry compote, and southern chocolate pie with toasted meringue. 1000 Lancaster St., 410-332-7373

Tersiguel’s French Country Restaurant: This farm-to-table Ellicott City spot will be open from 12-6 p.m. on Thanksgiving day, offering a prix-fixe four course menu that is $59 for adults and $30 for children (under 10). The first course is an Alsace potato soup, complete with leeks, bacon, house-made sausage, onion, caraway, and dill. The second course features assorted marinated salads like the golden beet. And the main course includes traditional treats like roasted turkey leg and breast, smoked ham leg, stuffing, mashed potatoes with sage gravy, and cranberry sauce. 8293 Main St, Ellicott City, 410-465-4004

Blue Moon Cafe and Blue Moon Too: Family and friends unite at these Fells Point and Federal Hill favorites for a pre-Thanksgiving dinner date. Blue Moon Cafe and Blue Moon Too will be open from 9 a.m.-1 p.m., and though the restaurants won’t be serving turkey, there will be enchiladas and other fun surprises in addition to their regular breakfast menus. 1621 Aliceanna St. and 1024 Light St., 410-522-3940

Rye Street Tavern: The three-course prix fixe at this Port Covington restaurant on the Sagamore Spirit distillery campus offers guests their choice of appetizer and dessert, and a main course served family style. Highlights will include an autumn salad, wood-broiled Choptank oysters, ember-roasted beets, crispy crab fritters, mashed potatoes with Sagamore Spirit whiskey-spiked gravy, and turkey sourced from Whispering Breeze farm in Taneytown that will be roasted over Maryland white oak logs. Save room for dessert with options like maple-buttermilk and black bottom pecan pie. 13 Rye St. 443-662-8000. $35-70

Wit & Wisdom: Bring the whole family to enjoy an Autumn-inspired buffet filled with favorites such as roasted marinated turkey, smoked prime rib, southern cornbread, and applewood-smoked bacon stuffing. The bottomless meal will be offered from 1-8 p.m. 200 International Drive. 410-576-5800. $45-95

→ BREAKFAST

Whatever the hour, start your day at Chick & Ruth’s Delly, a stalwart breakfast counter for homemade pies, award-winning crab cakes, and massive platters named after local politicians. (Order the “Congressman Elijah E. Cummings” for a one-pound ham steak, two eggs, potatoes, and toast.)

→ MORNING

The best way to get to know “Naptown,” as its locally known, is to go off and explore. Partake in various Watermark walking tours to learn about African-American heritage or ghost lore, or hop aboard a classic Woodwind schooner to admire the city by water. We also recommend meandering the likes of Main Street and Maryland Avenue for historic-home browsing and boutique shopping (especially at McBride Gallery, KA-CHUNK!! Records, and Annebeth’s wine shop).

→ LUNCH

For your midday meal, it’s all about local seafood. At City Dock, grab a street-side booth at the circa-1740 Middleton Tavern—once patronized by founding fathers George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and Benjamin Franklin—for people watching, oyster shooters, and lump-filled crab dip. For more world-class crab cakes, try Davis’ Pub in Eastport, while Cantler’s Riverside Inn across the Severn River is your destination for hard shells.

→ AFTERNOON

Often called a museum without walls, Annapolis is a history buff’s version of bliss. On State Circle, the Maryland State House once housed the Continental Congress and still serves as the General Assembly’s gathering place today. For more colonial history, saunter through the verdant gardens of the William Paca House and Historic London Town in nearby Edgewater. Of course, no trip is complete without a visit to the U.S. Naval Academy. Before football season rolls around, tour the grounds, museum, and campus chapel, where you can view the crypt of John Paul Jones, aka the father of the U.S. Navy.

→ DINNER

To experience the best of the city’s restaurant renaissance, start with happy hour at Sailor Oyster Bar for craft cocktails and fancy takes on fish before moving onto your main course at Preserve. This farm-to-table eatery, featured on our list of 50 Best Restaurants, focuses on sustainable sourcing and seasonal dishes such as grilled Maryland blue catfish or coffee-glazed local beef. Enjoy dessert a few doors up at the Annapolis Ice Cream Company, with homemade flavors including blueberry and Key lime pie.

→ EVENING

Live music abounds in Annapolis, with the original Rams Head Tavern featuring premier acts such as Taj Mahal and the Kingston Trio on its intimate stage. (On July 31, catch Baltimore’s own Thomas Dolby of “She Blinded Me With Science” fame.) Also check out the Metropolitan Kitchen & Lounge for up-and-coming artists, and the Annapolis Maritime Museum for summer evening concerts. The Annapolis Summer Garden Theater is another nightlife must, with al frecso plays beneath the stars.

It’s shortly before Christmas, and the heat’s off in the vast space that once housed Red Coral, a shuttered Asian restaurant and dance club in the Power Plant Live! complex. But it’s not just the temperature that provokes a chill. The carpet is torn and stained; ceiling tiles are discolored and smudged; bare patches of white are visible on the red walls where large TV screens once hung. In the back, the 86 board—there to tell servers which menu items are out of stock—still hangs, and scrawled in green marker are just two words: THE RESTAURANT.

Into this wasteland steps Steve de Castro, owner of the neighboring Ruth’s Chris Steak House and three others, as well as Eurasian Harbor and Babalu Grill. Wearing black slacks and a white dress shirt opened to the third button, he doesn’t even see the 86 board as he strides through the place—his place now, the site of his newest restaurant, the Blue Sea Grill. Light catches and refracts off the diamonds in his ring as his hands gesture expansively. “It’s gonna be beautiful,” he says. “The best seafood in Maryland.”

Trust him: The place is gonna be hot.

“The best seafood in Maryland.” 

It’s a bold declaration in a state whose identity is largely defined by the bounty of its bay waters. But Steve de Castro has spent his life bucking the odds. When he was a 14-year-old kid newly fled from 1960s Cuba, washing dishes in a New Orleans restaurant, you’d have bet against him becoming the restaurant’s manager. And once he did so (at age 17), you’d have bet against him opening his own restaurant just six years later.

Well, okay, you’d have won that bet: The restaurant quickly failed. But that left him available to meet a tough little lady name Ruth Fertel, owner of Ruth’s Chris Steak Houses, who happened to be looking for a manager. De Castro proved to be a valuable asset for Fertel—so valuable that when she needed someone to take over her poorly performing Washington, D.C. steakhouse, she trusted him with the difficult task.

One problem: De Castro didn’t want to move, and neither did his wife, Darlene. So the two came up with a plan: Steve would tell Fertel that he was willing to go, but only if she agreed to a list of demands too preposterous for her to ever accept. He went to her office and handed her the list, confident that he’d just guaranteed himself permanent residency in Louisiana. 

Fertel looked at the list, then at him. “All right,” she said finally. “You have one week to be in Washington.”

“I didn’t believe it,” he says now. “I was sure she would never let me go with that list.”

De Castro moved East in 1985 and went right to work, cleaning house and firing most of the staff. “Within a year, we went from the worst-performing Ruth’s Chris to the best,” he says. 

In 1992, de Castro got the chance to open his own Ruth’s Chris in nearby Baltimore. That was followed by a host of other restaurants and clubs, all held by his Big Steaks Management, LLC, which is housed in his Pikesville Ruth’s Chris. Now, he says, “I am from Maryland. This is my home.”

And so now he’s gunning for one of the most competitive markets in the Maryland restaurant industry: seafood. This new concept, Blue Sea Grill, will feature raw oysters, fresh fish, and crab imperial, in an area already chockablock with high-end seafood restaurants, the Inner Harbor. Is it possible that de Castro has bitten off more than he can chew?

Marcia Harris, president of the Restaurant Association of Maryland, chuckles at the question. “I wouldn’t bet against him,” she says.

The day before New Year’s Eve, the future Blue Sea smells like paint and sawdust. The carpeting has been pulled up, primer laid on some walls, and a single sky-blue patch of ceiling hints at the transformation to come. De Castro and architect Tim Kearney of Alliance Architecture are staring at what will be the entryway to the restaurant, now just a chest-high length of drywall that ends in a square column going up to the ceiling. The column’s the problem: It shoots up square in the middle of the view of the outside windows. De Castro wants it to line up with the outer window’s frames, which means moving the column a foot and a half to the right. Which means money. More money.

De Castro also wants glass doors at the entrance. “It’s the entrance,” he says, waving a cigar in one hand. “It’s the first thing you see.”

“Hey, you don’t have to convince me that this looks better,” says Kearney, gesturing to his hastily sketched revision of the entryway. But there’s the money: not much more than $300 to move the column, but then the extra glass. . . . 

Steve stares at the entryway intently, takes a puff on the cigar. “Let’s do it,” he says.

Then it’s back to the architectural renderings spread across the bar, which wobbles from being cut in half in preparation for an expansion to make room for the raw bar. Suddenly, a loud salsa tune bursts out: de Castro’s cell. It’s someone from the Ravens—de Castro is a big football fan, regularly attending the Super Bowl (he even flew with the Ravens to Miami for their game there this past season).

“How about the field passes?” he asks. “I’d like to have six.”

Then back to the plans. De Castro has a woman from Ruth’s Chris come over to make copies of Kearney’s sketch.

“How many reservations do we have?” he asks her, meaning for New Year’s Eve. The answer: 797.

“We’ll probably get another 100,” he shoots back. “Another 103.”

For the last 11 years, de Castro has spent New Year’s Eve in Baltimore, dashing between his various restaurants, always winding up at the downtown Ruth’s Chris for midnight. But this year, he’ll spend it in Atlantic City, where his new Babalu Grill opened just the week before. That’s just the beginning—his goal is to open two new restaurants a year for the foreseeable future.

That Atlantic City job was a real teeth-clencher, right down the wire. “I didn’t get the liquor license till 6 p.m. the night I opened,” he says, laughing. “I’m surprised I still have hair.”

That’s not going to happen with Blue Sea, he says. This time, he’s going to—

That salsa tune again; this time, it’s someone from Big Steaks. “When does he need to know?” de Castro asks. The answer clearly displeases him. “No,” he snaps. “You tell him he’ll have to wait till tomorrow. I can’t make a $30,000 decision in one second.”

Time to check out the kitchen. De Castro’s questioning the location of the icemaker, and disgusted by the cracked cement floor. “It looks like caca,” he says.

Then he’s checking the vent hoods, and electrical outlets, and an automated system that regularly changes the oil in the fryers. De Castro’s worked pretty much every position a restaurant has, and it shows. Hearing of the oil system, he nods in approval as his nose wrinkles at the memory of an unpleasant chore. “Changing the oil, who likes to do that?” he says.

A week later, Blue Sea is filled with men: men climbing up scaffolding, men cutting boards with a power saw, men rolling paint onto walls. The spicy earth tones of Red Coral are gone; in their place is, indeed, a sea of blue: aqua, cobalt, indigo, sky . . . and, in one incongruous patch, lime green. 

De Castro is appalled. “This color has to go!” he all but shouts, pointing emphatically with one finger as his head swings around to look at Kearney, who doesn’t look exactly happy himself. 

“They must have made a mistake,” he says.

Normally, paint wouldn’t even be going up yet. But Blue Sea is operating on a compressed schedule—what usually would take five months is being done in three. There are reasons for this: De Castro wants time to prepare for the May opening of the new Raleigh Ruth’s Chris. But in truth, he probably would have done it this way, even if he didn’t have another opening coming up. “Normally, when I start a project and sign a deal, I like to get it done,” he says.

Another issue: The carpeting hasn’t shown up yet, and no one’s sure when it will. Ryan Clark, the project manager, has been calling the company to try to speed things along, but so far it’s not helping.

“I’m trying,” he tells de Castro.

De Castro shoots him a glance. “Apparently, you don’t have too much pull,” he says.

De Castro isn’t in the best mood, and you can see that the smiles on Kearney’s and Clark’s faces are a little strained. Originally, the goal was to open in late January; now, the hope is mid-February.

But two weeks later, at the Babalu Grill in Power Plant Live!, de Castro’s mood is upbeat. He’s been sick—a rarity for him—and is now feeling good enough for another tasting of the prospective Blue Sea menu. Today, they’re mostly doing entrées, not just tasting them, but seeing how they look on the plate.

With him are Bill Irvin, Big Steaks’ director of food and beverage, and David Sadeghi, Big Steaks’ chief operating officer. A photographer is also on hand to shoot every dish; these will be posted on the kitchen wall so that every plate will look exactly as planned.

Sadeghi shows de Castro the silverware he wants to buy for Blue Sea—solid, curving, highly polished. And that’s the problem: The shiny finish shows every fingerprint and water spot, as de Castro points out by leaving his own print on a knife.

“They’re beautiful,” he says, “but you know it would drive me crazy to walk into a dining room and see that.”

“It’s too bad,” says Sadeghi. “They’re gorgeous.”

“Oh, gooorgeous,” de Castro agrees. “But it’s spotted.”

There are a few appetizers that have been tweaked that they’re trying out again: a cream of crab soup, oysters Rockefeller, clams casino. And then, at least half a dozen entrées. Every dish will go through at least three tastings. “Last time I did this with Babalu and Eurasian Harbor, I gained 40 pounds,” says de Castro.

Almost every dish still needs work: The mustard sauce is wrong for the crab cakes, the parsley pesto on a bronzini is too overpowering, and above all, they need to ditch the fillets. “What I’m really looking for is any fish prepared like this has to be that round and that fat,” de Castro says, his hands making the shape of a hefty steak. “And everything else has to be served whole.”

As the meal progresses—there will be another one tomorrow—de Castro, Sadeghi, and Irvin joke with each other, inflicting good-natured grief over the proper way to debone a fish or describe an oyster. Someone asks de Castro about his trip to Atlantic City for the new Babalu opening—did he try his luck at the casinos?

De Castro shakes his head. “I don’t gamble,” he says.

Sadeghi’s mouth quirks upward in a grin. “He gambles with himself,” he cracks.

Indeed, de Castro’s entire life story is one of calculated risks, each one upping the ante a little bit more. And with the exception of that one first failed restaurant, he’s won each time. He says (as do many people who know him) the reason is simple: hard work. De Castro regularly works from 9 a.m. until midnight. And to relax, he says, “I work.” 

He needed that drive when he opened his first Ruth’s Chris in Baltimore, a notoriously insular town. “Until I came to town, they never accepted anyone from out of town,” he says. “I broke the ice. . . . The first year, it was tough. But I was tough, too. I didn’t come here to quit; I came here to win. It took people a while, but then all of a sudden, they started coming.”

“This area was Death Valley back then, bankruptcy after bankruptcy,” says de Castro’s business partner, Washington lawyer Ely Hurwitz. “At least two other restaurants had gone bankrupt in that same spot before Ruth’s Chris. People thought we were crazy.”

These days, de Castro’s no interloper, and his judgement is rarely questioned. “In the industry, he’s a leader, certainly,” says the Restaurant Association of Maryland’s Harris, who has known de Castro for years. “I’ve never met anyone who didn’t want to be introduced to Steve de Castro. His name is known.”

His name isn’t just known, it’s engraved: While neither party will say exactly how much money de Castro gave RAM toward its new headquarters in Columbia, it was enough to merit having the $1.6 million building named after him. He estimates he donates and raises half a million dollars a year for local charities, with the help of his employees and vendors. He’s often asked to host charity events—partly because he has so many venues, but also because he has a reputation for doing them well.

“If Steve says he’s going to do it, I don’t have to call to check up on him,” says Harris. “I know it won’t just be done, but it’ll be done with a little something extra.”

Like many people who expect a lot from themselves, de Castro also tends to expect a lot from the people who work for him—this is a guy who, as a kid in his first restaurant, fired his own brother for goofing off.

“He was a tough one,” says Nathan Beveridge, who worked for de Castro for more than four years before starting his own Mr. Beveridge’s Midtown Yacht Club and Spy Club. “But if you did the work, you had a chance there. He hired within a lot.”

Along with promotions, de Castro has been known to reward his employees with gifts and trips—Beveridge recalls de Castro taking him along on tours of Napa Valley and Cuba.

“He gives out Christmas bonuses,” says Beveridge. “That’s unheard of in this industry.”

“Where’s the carpet?” asks de Castro.

“It was supposed to be in yesterday,” answers Clark. 

This is bad. Until the carpeting goes in, they can’t set up the tables. And until the tables are set up, the fire inspector can’t come out, and the lighting can’t be finalized, and it’s two weeks before opening and the carpeting just needs to be in already. 

There are plenty of other things to pay attention to: De Castro is unhappy with the direction of the light in one alcove, and with the height of the lights in another, and he’s decided that the paint in the entryway needs to be changed.

“Steve, your name came up at a meeting with some people building this business park in Howard County,” says Clark offhand. “They wanted to call you about putting a restaurant in there.”

“No!” de Castro cries in mock-anguish. “No more restaurants!”

But of course there will be more restaurants. Even while planning the Blue Sea, he’s already got an idea for the next new gamble: taking one of his concepts national, and maybe start a franchise operation, a business Fertel helped teach him.

It will be the rare franchisee who has de Castro’s level of detail-orientation. This is a man who, before any of his restaurants opens, sits in every single chair of every single table, checking the view and comfort.

“I don’t want anyone in my place to have a bad seat,” he says.

The next day, another tasting, this one at The Crystal Room, the event venue connected to the Pikesville Ruth’s Chris. The menu’s really coming together at this point; de Castro’s found his executive chef, Martin Lackovic, and he’s turning out some beautiful dishes.

De Castro’s in a good mood again; the carpet came in last night. He was at Blue Sea until about midnight.

“I was having a dream about it last night,” begins Irvin.

“Oh my God, I thought it was just me!” shouts de Castro.

“Every night, from now on,” says Sadeghi, grinning. “All of us.”

“Welcome to the crazy world, Billy,” de Castro says.

It’s the last week of February, Thursday night. The lights are appropriately low for the dinner crowd, but still bright enough to make de Castro’s ring flash as his hands fly open to embrace yet another visitor. Last night, he had friends and family give the Blue Sea a trial run; tonight, it’s VIPs and folks who helped put the place together. Friday and Saturday, Blue Sea’s booked solid with yet more VIPs, tastemakers, and media members, all of whom will enjoy the restaurant’s food and wine on the house. Next week comes the grand opening to the public.

De Castro’s parents are here, flown in from New Orleans, and two of his four children are also on hand; family members warmly greet each other in a mixture of Spanish and English. Irvin glides by in a bow tie that matches the vibrant aqua of the entryway. Sadeghi ducks in before going back to Ruth’s Chris. Kearney stops by to drop off some plans, looking tired to the core but smiling as he gazes at the end product of his work.

Not that Blue Sea is finished: Even now, de Castro has his tape measure out, trying to determine a better height for the glass that separates the raw bar from the bar’s counter. And the sea-themed murals will take weeks to be finished. Still, as he takes a visitor on a quick tour of his latest endeavor, de Castro’s pride is evident as he walks around this sea of blue. Here is where the upstairs mural will go, and here’s the room for a private party of 20. Smooth saxophone music croons from the speakers, stemware glints like seafoam bubbles atop every table (de Castro pulls aside an employee to point out a missing setting), diners happily feast on steamed shellfish and silver-dollar sized lumps of crab (another pulling aside: “The judge would like eight crab cakes to take with him on his flight, so make sure they’re ready when he leaves”).

All is well in the crazy world. But one visitor can’t help asking, half-jokingly, when the next Blue Sea will open, and for just a second, Steve de Castro actually looks tired—weary, even.

“I’m really in no hurry,” he says. “I’m going to give myself a break. I got the new Ruth’s Chris in Raleigh, and then I got some projects on hold.

“I’m giving myself a break,” he repeats. “Three in one year is plenty.”