It’s that time of year again: When airlines entice you to head west, toward snow-powdered mountains in Tahoe or Telluride. When temperatures lure you south, to snap bikini-clad Instagrams on some sandy beach near Tulum. We can’t deny the transformative power of a vacation, but here in Baltimore, thanks to a growing number of hip and haute hotels (many centered in Mt. Vernon), there are also now plenty of reasons to simply stay put. Staycations are an easy way to rediscover your city and revel in its own attractions, and the perks of doing so are piling up like room service trays in a hotel hallway. And the competition is getting fierce. Stunning views? Check. First-class spas? Check, check. Heavenly pillows, mattresses, and sheet sets? You can bet your lower back (and best of all, you don’t have to make the bed). So forget jet lag and the TSA this winter and treat yourself to a getaway without ever leaving home.

Four Seasons

200 International Dr., 410-576-5800, rooms start at $369.

Walk into this grand dame of local lodging in Harbor East and you’ll likely hear your inner voice vying for “Serenity now!” That voice, of course, has expensive taste, with every inch of this Baltimore branch of the Four Seasons empire exuding its trademark lavishness. From sweeping waterfront views, top-tier restaurants, and the hotel’s signature scent of teakwood and cardamom mingling with a weekly tower of fresh flowers in the front lobby, you’ll be swaddled in the lap of luxury before you even hit the five-star spa. But this plush pad, located in the city’s deluxe shopping district, isn’t just for socialites and celebrities ready to relish the private pool. It’s also surprisingly family friendly, with in-room babysitting services and glamping for kids—toy teepee and all.

Sweet Dreams: Each room is simple and sophisticated, featuring an earthy color palette, luxe linens, and a prime vantage point overlooking the city skyline. For that, splurge on a balcony, like those of the aptly named Serene Suites, which also include a built-in fireplace and a full kitchen with Wolf appliances. Room Service: The Atlas Restaurant Group is taking over the hotel’s (and neighborhood’s) dining scene, with three on-site restaurants—the splashy Azumi sushi bar, the buzzy Loch Bar seafood spot, and the sceney, rooftop Bygone—as well as another upcoming concept opening in the former Wit & Wisdom space later this year. (For what it’s worth, the shrimp and grits at chef Cindy Wolf’s nearby Charleston would be part of our last supper.) Concierge Cue: The hotel spa is reason enough to visit, be it for a stellar massage or a stint in the spacious sauna, and Baltimore residents make up the majority of appointments throughout the year. Just don’t miss the warm stone seats in the “heat experience.”

Hotel Indigo

24 W. Franklin St., 410-625-6200, rooms start at $89.

It’s easy to feel inspired after an overnight at this fresh-faced Mt. Vernon hotel, located in a 1908 landmark building that once housed the city’s first YMCA. Just around the corner from the Enoch Pratt Free Library’s central branch, the Baltimore location of this national boutique hotel chain is designed with the city’s literary legacy in mind. Murals depicting pencil-drawn book shelves float above the beds. Physical books for your perusal linger in the lobby library, where live jazz is performed on Thursday nights. Manhattan cocktails are made-to-order at the marble bar of Poets, the hotel’s aptly named restaurant with high ceilings and giant windows looking out onto the city streets. (And, of course, the gilded George Peabody Library is just a short scramble up Charles.) Soon enough, you, too, will be drinking the Kool-Aid (aka the spa water next to the concierge), as the entire space is sleek, modern, and fittingly funky without being overly cool. We especially love the rotating art exhibit, curated by local gallery Maryland Art Place and featuring works by Baltimore artists.

Sweet Dreams: Colorful furnishings and fixtures add a pop of energy to every room, while Aveda bath products and solid shower pressure inspire you to relax. We left wishing that more hotels had hardwood floors. And pups are also welcome for a one-time fee of $25, which is far less than the other guys. Room Service: Since you’re only one block away, be sure to scoot over to the venerable Tio Pepe for sangria pitchers and paella platters. For breakfast, make the four-minute walk to Jack and Zach’s for bacon, egg, and cheese sandwiches on homemade English muffins. Concierge Cue: Sleep in without nightmares of Baltimore City meter maids thanks to the Penn Parking garage directly across Franklin Street, which costs only $5 a day.

The Ivy Hotel

205 E. Biddle St., 410-514-6500, rooms start at $595.

Prepare to be pampered like Baltimore royalty at this almost-all-inclusive former mansion in Mt. Vernon. Entering the stately home-turned-boutique hotel, you’re greeted with a glass of gratis champagne and then given free rein to the sprawling grounds, from the leafy conservatory, where you can try your hand at the grand piano, to the handsome library, where you can grab any book off the self, to even the Hemingway-worthy game room, where you can play a round of eight-ball on an antique pool table. That’s not to mention the afternoon tea time or access to the verdant courtyard, which quickly makes The Ivy feel like your new home away from home. Take our advice and stay awhile.

Sweet Dreams: With in-room fireplaces, heated bathroom floors, oodles of natural light, and a complimentary minibar—yes, you read that last part right—your bedchamber gives you little reason to leave it. The two-story Suite 18 is especially lovely, with vaulted ceilings, a spacious interior, and après-ski-chic design. Did we mention the heated bathroom floors? Room Service: A regular on our annual “Best Restaurants” list, Magdalena is an experience in and of itself, where chef Mark Levy turns out some of the most inspired fine dining in town. For morning meals, the restaurant also offers what Food & Wine has rightfully hailed “the best hotel breakfast you can’t have”—that is, unless you’re a lucky guest. Concierge Cue: There are a few fringe benefits for an additional fee, such as bringing Fido, with dog beds, crates, and walking services available upon request, or indulging in a tailored massage at the tranquil guests-only spa. We recommend the in-room treatments, which are followed by an aromatherapy soak in your very own bathtub.

Hotel Revival

101 W. Monument St., 410-727-7101, rooms start at $139.

From vintage furnishings and whimsical wallpaper to a whole rooftop room of succulents supplied by Remington plant shop B. Willow, this chic boutique hotel follows the nationwide trend of providing a respite for younger travelers who crave unique experiences over the big, beige, cookie-cutter options of yesteryear. But the hip new space, opened last April to much applause by the San Francisco-based Joie de Vivre hospitality group and situated on the western edge of Mount Vernon Place amidst the neighborhood’s historic brownstones, is more than just millennial fodder (though we won’t judge you for Instagramming your toes on the incredible tiled floors). As the name implies, the hotel draws on its local roots, past and present, with small odes to former resident Mary Garrett, whose father founded the B&O Railroad, and modern homages to the local arts, as the walls are decorated with works by contemporary creatives like collage artist Beth Hoeckel and Baltimore Print Studios. The lobby’s small gift shop also showcases regionally made goods, like candles by Knits Soy & Metal and bags by Treason Toting Company.

Sweet Dreams: Snag an east-facing room for a front-row seat to the Washington Monument. Swoon over the old-fashioned doorbell on your way inside, and spend some time finding redecorating inspiration in the eclectic aesthetic. Extra points for the in-room fabric steamer. Room Service: While the sub-level Square Meal is worth a cup of Ceremony Coffee, the main event is up the elevators on the 15th floor. At Topside, the rooftop bar and restaurant, the cocktails are current (think house-made shrubs and decorative garnishes), the tap list touts the hotel’s own beer (Thirstay, made by Peabody Heights Brewery), and the views (once again) are epic. Concierge Cue: Forget fitness centers and fresh-pressed laundry—our new favorite hotel amenities are the private B-Side Karaoke rooms. Book a solo session or bring a group of friends, with liquid courage available throughout the night.

Sagamore Pendry

1715 Thames St., 443-552-1400, rooms start at $350.

When it was announced that the iconic Recreation Pier in Fells Point, circa 1914, would be converted into a glitzy new hotel backed by Under Armour CEO Kevin Plank, you could almost hear the community’s collective grumbling: “There goes the neighborhood.” But nearly two years after opening its doors, the Pendry has become a welcome addition—in part for having the hands-down coolest pool in town. Sure, it’s hard to connect such modern amenities (and a $60 million renovation) with the former 1990s TV set of Homicide: Life on the Street, but outside, the original façade remains intact against the sparkling waterfront, and inside, local interior design guru Patrick Sutton has created a tony tribute to Baltimore’s heritage. Both the industrial décor and the curated art collection tip their hats to the city’s maritime, manufacturing, and historical heydays (with plenty of nods to the county’s horse country and Plank’s own thoroughbred farm). Go just to marvel at the colorful, complex, Maryland-centric mural by local street artist Gaia in the lobby lounge.

Sweet Dreams: Fancy yourself a stylish sea captain in these natty, nautically inclined rooms, featuring rich leathers, warm fabrics, and dark wood throughout. Whatever the season, a west-facing Harbor Suite offers exceptional sunsets behind the Domino Sugars sign, especially during the city’s festive fireworks on New Year’s Eve and the Fourth of July. Room Service: While the revered Rec Pier Chop House by celebrity chef Andrew Carmellini might be only a few feet from your bedroom door, we suggest the few extra steps across the street for the whole-belly clam rolls at Thames Street Oyster House, followed by a little late-night boogie next door at Cat’s Eye Pub. Also beware the time-sensitive “honor bar” (aka the trendy term for minibar) that charges you 60 seconds after you’ve lifted that Sagamore Spirit bottle from its perch. Concierge Cue: Leave your car at home—the hotel features a fleet of Cadillacs that you can personally cruise around town for up to four hours.

EAT

Jan. 4-6: Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood Farewell Party

Cross Street Market, 1065 S. Charles St. Fri., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat. and Sun., 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Free.

After a string of high-profile restaurant closings last year, Baltimore is, sadly, adding another to the list as we bid farewell to Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood. Raise a glass to this 50-year-old Federal Hill institution and celebrate the stall’s long run with one last pound of steamed shrimp and, of course, some freshly shucked oysters. Don’t worry if you’re a little late to the party—Nick’s plans to extend its normal hours if enough seafood lovers want to stay for another round.

DRINK

Jan. 6: The Baltimore Ravens vs. Los Angeles Chargers

Locations vary.

This Sunday, the Ravens, our newly crowned AFC North champs, will face off against the Los Angeles Chargers at M&T Bank Stadium, meaning the city will be in pregame mode all weekend long. If you want to be at the heart of the action, head to Pratt Street Ale House for can’t-miss drink deals or stop by the Bmore Around Town Purple Tailgate, where you can indulge in an open bar and the chance to snap a picture with Super Bowl champion Jamal Lewis. In Federal Hill, Mother’s Grille is offering a $35 all-you-can drink special on their infamous Purple Patio, and in Hampden, Frazier’s will serve up $2.50 cans of Boh and discounted appetizers all afternoon long. For more playoff specials and celebrations, check out our game-day roundup.

SEE

Jan. 4-Sept. 7: Press Press at the George Peabody Library

George Peabody Library, 17 E. Mount Vernon Pl. Fri., 10 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sat., 10 a.m.-1 p.m. Free.

Since its founding in 2014 by local artist and writer Kimi Hanauer, Press Press has been making waves in Baltimore and beyond for its grassroots approach to publishing that amplifies voices that often go unheard. Press Press is entering its fifth year as the George Peabody Library Research Residency’s artist-in-residence, which culminates with this exhibition of the initiative’s entire body of work, including pieces like 100% Yes Manifesto and Megaphone! Megaphone!, in the atrium of the historic Mt. Vernon library. The exhibit runs through September 7, so if you can’t make it this weekend, you have plenty of time to make the trip.

HEAR

Jan. 6: Neighbors Play Normal’s

Normal’s Books & Records, 425 E. 31st St. 7:30 p.m. Free.

Chances are you’ve been humming “Auld Lang Syne” under your breath since Tuesday. Wash away the last few traces of holiday music during Normal’s Books and Records first show of the year, featuring four of the bookseller’s favorite Abell acts. On the chill end, sway to ukulele covers by the John Street Genes and indie folk by James BonTempo & Truth Tables. On the other, post-punk outfit Silver Gulls and local rock supergroup In Love With the Weather Girl are guaranteed to bring up the energy—a perfect post-new year palate cleanser.

DO

Jan. 4-6: Ice Skating at the Four Seasons Hotel

Four Seasons, 200 International Dr. Fri., 4-8 p.m.; Sat. and Sun., 12-8 p.m. $15-25.

This weekend marks the final few days of rooftop ice skating at the Four Seasons Hotel in Harbor East, and whether it’s your first visit this winter or your 50th, it’s worth the trip. In between attempting triple axels on the 1,500-square-foot rink, take in the sights while listening to live music, sipping on hot cocoa, and snacking on roasted chestnuts. Afterwards, grab a drink or two at The Bygone, the hotel’s top-floor restaurant, to warm up and catch another glimpse of that breathtaking view.

The day after Thanksgiving most people have two things on their minds: recovering from a food coma and Black Friday shopping. But, this year, the Four Seasons Baltimore is hoping that you’ll work off that turkey tummy at their brand new rooftop skating rink opening on November 23.

The fifth floor Harbor Terrace at the luxury Harbor East hotel will transform into a 1,560-square-foot synthetic ice rink. The rink will be open to hotel guests as well as the public on Thursdays and Fridays from 4 to 8 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 8 p.m. until January 6.

“The hotel really wanted to have something special that the community and our guests could enjoy,” said Beverly Magee, general manager of the Four Seasons Baltimore. “We also thought about the fact that our pool area on the fourth floor is one of the things that our guests really rave about, so we wanted to utilize that in the winter months to really make it something special.”

With panoramic views of the Inner Harbor, visitors will have the chance to test their skills while enjoying spiked coffee drinks, house-made hot cocoa, spiced apple cider, and stove-roasted chestnuts. Admission for the non-hotel guests is $25 for adults and $15 for children with skate rental for $5 for 45-minute sessions. While entry is complimentary for guests of the hotel, the prices for skating is discounted at $15 for adults and $5 for children 12 and under.

Ice skating options in Baltimore have come and gone over the years. The beloved Northwest Ice Rink in Mt. Washington filed bankruptcy and closed in 2011, and mainstays Dominic “Mimi” DiPietro Family Skating Center in Patterson Park and the Mount Pleasant Ice Rink in East Baltimore have stood the test of time. In 2014, the glitzy new outdoor Pandora Ice Rink opened and brought new life to the Inner Harbor.

“Over the years, it’s become a fun place for friends, families and coworkers to gather and celebrate,” said Laurie Schwartz, president of the Waterfront Partnership. “We see folks taking a spin during their lunch break, teaching their children how to skate, enjoying date nights and more—it’s a really great place to celebrate the season.”

One thing that sets the Four Seasons new ice rink apart from the others is not only the exclusivity of it all, but that Magee says that the hotel is planning to donate a portion of the sales to cancer research.

“I think we’ll give people a real sense of the Harbor East environment, beautiful views of the harbor, and a feel good component with the philanthropic element,” she says.

This rooftop ice rink will also be available for private event rentals during the days that it’s not open to the public. Although plans and pricing are still being worked out, guests can expect to have customized menus and bars to add to the “holiday magic.”

“During the holidays, people come to this area to take advantage of the shopping and restaurants, so this can be another thing they can add to their holiday agenda,” Magee said. “We hope our skating rink will become a memorable family tradition for years to come.”

Even before you head up to Bygone at the top of the Four Seasons, the restaurant sets the stage with a dress code posted next to the elevator entrance. Just in case there’s any doubt that you’re about to enter a splendored world of hand-blown Zalto wine glasses, custom gold-rimmed Lenox china chargers, and arrangements fashioned from flowers and feathers, the style strictures—“Collared shirts are required for Gentlemen,” “Ladies may not wear baseball caps or beanies”—set the record straight about fine dining in Harbor East. And as you ascend 29 floors up to this rarified world (with an assist from a top-hatted elevator operator), there’s one more thing you need to know: Hold on to your wallet—sitting in the lap of luxury doesn’t come cheap.

With panoramic views, and soaring nearly 314 feet from Earth, Bygone takes the term “haute cuisine” literally. And the impact is dizzying—despite the oversized retro clock at the entrance, you’ll likely lose all sense of time and space when you dine and drink here. You might even forget that you’re in Baltimore altogether, except for the fact that beyond the towering walls of windows, Charm City glimmers with all of her unmistakable landmarks below—the Domino Sugars sign, the Key Bridge, and Camden Yards.

Welcome to Atlas Restaurant Group’s latest foodie fantasy, established in December of 2017, but, as the name suggests, seemingly out of another era, like a lavish set piece for Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby, complete with gueridon trolley service and yards of velvet curtains that separate many of the seating nooks and add to the theatricality. If it’s an escapist dining experience you’re after, beeline for Bygone.

The décor takes a cue from the glamour of the 1920s and ’30s, but the menu is a nod to the nouvelle cuisine of the ’60s, created as a more delicate alternative to traditional French cooking, with lighter sauces (though plenty heavy by American standards) and ingredients and flavors that had not been combined before. While Cordon Bleu-trained executive chef Matthew Oetting is interested in the past, he brings vintage dishes into the present in the form of respectable riffs such as scallops bourguignonne, a squab and foie gras eggroll, and duck flambé with lavender honey glaze.

Our dinner at Bygone began with drinks at the dimly lit bar, which is a mandatory stop for anyone investing in a meal here. Bar manager Will Escalante presides over an unprecedented whiskey selection (more than 600 bottles), though we went for a couple of classic vodka martinis served in delicate coupe glasses and garnished with gargantuan green olives. We could have lingered at the bar forever, but once we were seated for dinner, the opening bites of both the house-baked gruyère and pretzel rolls continued to lay the foundation for a mostly wow-worthy meal.

The house-cured gravlax starter with dill crème fraîche and “everything” spice with brioche toast points is a killer combo full of flavor and interesting textures. The tuna ravigote starter (made with canned tuna back in the day), gets recast as crudo with sashimi-grade fish, freshly grated horseradish, a cucumber fan, Champagne-marinated cherry tomatoes, and traditional ravigote sauce—a mixture of herbs including chervil, shallots, and tarragon. Entrees are similarly reimagined classics. 

Take the grand Beef Wellington, a seared piece of house-butchered prime rib wrapped in Rainbow Swiss Chard and shitake mushroom duxelles, all tucked inside a pocket of pastry. Though the puff pastry was more doughy than delicate, the meat was incredibly tender and juicy. Swiss Chard is also employed as bedding for a delicate, pan-seared piece of golden Dover Sole Meunière, freshly flown in from Holland and served with a sauce of capers, lemon, and roasted chestnut-brown butter that adds notes of nuttiness and makes the flavor profile more modern. The golden-crusted fish was exquisite, and almost too much for one person to eat, but prepare yourself for sticker shock—the à la carte dish is a jaw-dropping $95.

If you’re watching your dining dollars, a lunchtime visit is still a splurge, but less so than dinner. The menu focuses predominantly on soups, salads, and sandwiches. Consider the Crab Louie, clumps of Venezuelan crab meat mounded on a simple salad of romaine, topped with hard-boiled egg and avocado, and dressed with a creamy and kicky dressing. On the more indulgent end, we enjoyed a marvelous, but messy, lobster club, including Bibb lettuce, tomato, red onion, fried shallots, and six ounces of Maine claw meat spilling out of a house-made brioche bun slathered with honey mustard and avocado mayo. Don’t miss the sweet and smoky lobster bisque. My companion’s comment that she wanted to “lick the bowl”—as she came up for air between sips of the cognac cream broth—said it all.

Service was unerring, though overly eager at times. During dinner service, as if on cue, our waiter said, “May I?” a few too many times as dirty dishes were cleared and new ones arrived. Several times, we caught him peeping out from behind the velvet curtains to gauge our reactions, but it’s hard to fault someone for caring too much. As we headed to the elevator with our parting gifts in hand—chocolate truffles nestled in a tiny gold box—we looked forward to an encore performance.

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BYGONE 400 International Dr., 443-343-8200. HOURS: Lunch: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Dinner: Sun.-Wed. 4-10 p.m.; Thurs.-Fri. 4 p.m.-midnight; Sat. 5-midnight. PRICES: Appetizers, soups, salad: $10-44; entrees: $24-95; desserts: $9-16. AMBIANCE: Retro glamour.

Charity fundraisers conjure up a lot of images: white tablecloths, a big-ticket silent auction, and plenty of fancy gowns and tuxes. But organizers at the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation of Maryland conceived of a different model when launching the inaugural Feastival last year.

“There’s a much younger crowd that the $10,000 table doesn’t really work for,” says Kari Mutscheller, the local CFF chapter’s senior development director. “This event spans a much bigger age bracket and it’s an afternoon of eating and drinking downtown. This is mostly a party, but with a really great cause attached.”

This year’s event, Saturday, June 17 on the waterfront promenade at Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore, boasts more than 20 food and drink options from around the region, including some new faces like Gnocco, Diamondback Brewing, Center Cut Donuts, La Food Marketa, Belle Isle Spirits, Ground & Griddled, and Modern Cook Shop.

“Our goal is to promote and get to know the more up-and-coming restaurants,” Mutscheller says. “This is a nice way for our guests to discover some new offerings in the city they may not have already tried.”

In addition, restaurant options include more well-established locations like Wit & Wisdom, Hersh’s, Clavel, and Atlas Restaurant Group’s Azumi and Loch Bar. In fact, it was Atlas owner Alex Smith who helped to co-found Feastival last year with fellow CFF board member Mack McGee.

“Those two are the founding chairs of this event,” Mutscheller says. “It was their idea to take this kind of thing out of the ballroom and really into the streets.”

Something new for 2017 is that Feastival appointed five Cystic Fibrosis ambassadors to help get the word out about the event and disease through individual happy hours and social media. Each ambassador—which includes Katie Rose Broadhurst of Mix 106.5 and local advocate Katharine Scrivener—was tasked with trying to raise $3,000.

“One thing people don’t understand about CF is just how invisible it can be,” says Scrivener, who was diagnosed at 16 years old. “There are always shocked because most of us, even at different stages in the disease, look relatively healthy. This event gives us a chance to explain our stories.”

In fact, each ambassador created videos that they could share to do just that. One of the many challenges of CF is that patients can’t be around each other in close quarters because of certain bacteria they carry, which can lead to serious infection. But because this event is spread out and outside, all of the ambassadors can attend with their friends and family.

“Even though we’ll never be able to sit around a table in the same room, this will be a great way to spend the day in the same place with the same goal,” Scrivener says. “The way the local food community has come together, how hard the other ambassadors have worked, and the support of my friends and family is why an event like this is so fulfilling and purposeful.”

What does the Life and Breath Foundation do?
The Life and Breath Foundation has been striving to find a cure for sarcoidosis, which is a disease that causes clusters of abnormal tissue called “granulomas” to form in the body. If many granulomas form in an organ, they can keep the organ from working normally.

How common is it?
Sarcoidosis usually occurs between the ages of 20 and 50. According to the National Institutes of Health, African-Americans and Northern Europeans are more likely to have it. It affects both men and women, but studies show it is more likely to occur in women.

Your connection to sarcoidosis is through your mother, who kept her diagnosis secret for 13 years until her death.
Yes. She was a strong lady who didn’t want anyone to worry. I can only imagine how she managed her own health care. I was grief-stricken by her death. I struggled to understand why she was taken from our family, and why we didn’t know she was suffering. Establishing the foundation in her memory gave me the strength to do something that she could be proud of. I think she would be happy that I have made a commitment in my life to help others who struggle to manage their health care.

The foundation’s big fundraiser, Flip-Flop Festivus, is September 18 at the Four Seasons. Who’s coming this year?
[Former professional basketball player] Gheorghe Muresan and [former Raven] Brad Jackson have confirmed they will be there. Invitations have gone out to Matt Stover, Michael McCrary, Keith Booth, Juan Dixon, Walt Williams, Steve Davis, Ed Norris, and Johnny Holliday, as well.

How much has the foundation raised over the years?
The foundation has raised over $300,000 for sarcoidosis research. I’m very proud of the amount we’ve raised. We still have an enormous opportunity to benefit those who suffer with the disease, and this motivates me each year.

You’re a wealth-management vice president and relationship manager by day, but also have a second career as a college basketball official. How did that happen?
This will be my 24th year as a Division I official. I played sports all my life, including playing soccer and baseball in college. During college, I started officiating basketball in the intramural department and then high school basketball. I continued to pursue it, attending officiating camps. I was selected by the ACC in 1993.

What are some of your most memorable moments?
In 1996, I was selected to do the Division II national championship game on CBS. Later that summer, I received an invite to tryout for the summer league for the NBA as an official. Kobe Bryant was in attendance playing for the L.A. Lakers. My mother was able to see [both] accomplishments [before] she passed away December of 1996. The second memorable moment was this past year when I officiated the storied Duke vs. UNC rivalry game at UNC on March 7, 2015.

What does it take to be a good official?
Integrity, confidence, and composure. The best game involves no one ever knowing who the officials were.

Tug on the samurai sword door pull as you enter Azumi, move beyond the bar with Japanese characters laser-cut into a steel sheet, then pick your path: a faux eel-skin banquette in the lounge, the raw-fish bar gleaming with live sea urchin, or a booth with breathtaking views of the harbor.

Welcome to The Land of the Rising Sun by way of The Land of Pleasant Living.

When we heard that Alex Smith and his partner George Aligeorgas of the Atlas Restaurant Group (known for the Harbor East hotspot Ouzo Bay) decided to stick with the concept of Japanese fine-dining when Pabu closed on the same site last year, the comparisons from Pabu’s dedicated fan base—present company included—seemed inevitable.

Wisely, Smith and Aligeorgas kept what worked at the former izakaya (Japanese for pub), going so far as to rehire master sake sommelier Tiffany Dawn Soto to preside as a consultant over the beverage program, which boasts the best sake selection in the city. And they changed what didn’t—broadening the menu to encompass not only authentic Far East imports (live black tiger shrimp and baby octopus from the famed Tsukiji Market in Japan), but also more approachable fare such as cooked sushi rolls, rock shrimp, and even roasted free-range chicken for the inevitable finicky eater.

While Pabu was pretty, designer Patrick Sutton has slicked up the space for Azumi (think: Nobu, Morimoto, and other internationally known fish emporiums) and created a more fluid flow, while even the front door was hard to find at the former iteration.

When my dining companion and I arrived early on a Saturday night, the trendy house music was already in full force, and grown-up versions of the cool kids were holding court at the buzzy bar. Though our waitress was sweet, her understanding of the menu seemed mostly memorized, so, as was our habit at Pabu, we summoned Soto (who actually helped recruit chef Eiji Takase and lived in Japan for several years).

Our dining neighbor offered that the fish was as good as any he’d had while on a recent trip to Tokyo.

While Soto can wax rhapsodic over the sake selection, she is equally excited about helping design your dinner from a menu comprised of starters, sushi, entrees, niku (meat) and sides, as well as an omakase chef’s choice tasting menu. The tab can get high here in no time, so plan properly and take Soto’s unerring advice on the best way to move through your meal.

Since its opening in December, I’ve visited Azumi numerous times and have taken every tack, from sampling the bold (bite-sized Sawagani crabs flash-fried with sea salt and lime) to trying the more banal—though no less delicious—
age dashi tofu, which was crisp and impossibly soft and resting in a soy dashi broth.

On this visit, we ordered from almost every section of the menu, though it’s the fish dishes—served hot, cold, cooked, or raw—that rate. Our favorite appetizers included an exquisitely plated kanpachi amberjack glistening with black-truffle oil and a tangy yuzu juice served on a crisp yucca chip, and the exceptionally fresh blue-fin toro sashimi (flown in daily from Japan). We ordered ours nigiri-style, with the buttery belly meat blanketing a ball of rice, and served properly with a dab of wasabi tucked between the layers, so that no additional sauce was needed. As we savored each bite, our dining neighbor offered that the fish was as good as any he’d had while on a recent trip to Tokyo.

On the sushi side of the menu, we chose from among a list of more than a dozen unique rolls. Having found fish bliss with the miso-marinated black cod entrée on a previous visit, we were eager to try the black cod roll fortified with spicy miso, crispy satsumaimo (Japanese sweet potato), and a kick of shiso ginger. It was as pleasing to the eyes as it was to the taste buds. A plate of delicate Scottish salmon crudo garnished with beet threads and flower petals also astonished.

To go with our surf, we included some turf—in this case a Wagyu New York strip steak. Expectations ran high for the prized piece of rarified A5-grade beef served with three house-made, soy-based dipping sauces. While full-flavored, the intensely marbled meat was difficult to chew and made me wonder: Why $58? On an earlier visit, the Wagyu skirt steak—way more fairly priced at $29—was preferable to my palate (and my pocketbook).

The desserts are artful and elaborate, adorned with hand-spun sugar sculptures and 23-karat gold flakes, though the simplest one, a selection of house-made mochi ice creams (mango, green tea, yuzu), is the standout. Sad as I was to say sayonara to Pabu, there are, in fact, other fish in the sea. Or at least along the Patapsco.