From The Coral Wig’s Painkiller to The Duchess’s Pirate Princess, tiki-inspired cocktails—bold, boozy, juicy, and often over-the-top—are enjoying a renaissance.

“There are a few factors as to why tiki or tropical cocktails are trending,” surmises mixologist Brendan Dorr, who owns the gin bar Dutch Courage and the James Beard nominated Pink Flamingo. “The whiskey bubble has popped, and people are moving on to other spirits. Also, guests are becoming more educated with their spirit knowledge, especially when it comes to rum.”

Dorr does make a distinction between tropical and tiki drinks, however.

“Tiki cocktails are more theatrical, whereas tropical cocktails is a general term for cocktails using tropical fruit, spices, and citrus—the styling is simpler,” he says. “Also, with tropical cocktails we aim to avoid the cultural appropriation that can go along with tiki.”

That’s exactly why bartender Pat Turner of True Chesapeake Oyster Co. is careful to honor the history of the kitschy cocktails with the Hampden spot’s “Tiki Tuesdays.”

“Tiki recipes are classics,” he says. “The people who came before us aced these drinks, so for our recipes, we’ve turned to places like Smuggler’s Cove [in San Francisco] and Don the Beachcomber [in Hollywood]. Most workers who made tiki drinks were Filipino—these cocktails are an ode to them.”

The revival of the tiki tradition is an antidote to current craft cocktails.

“Cocktail culture has been trending more and more minimalist,” says Turner. “The nicer cocktail spots have the daintiest glasses with the most minimalist garnish—maybe just a simple trimmed peel or a spot of oil. Along with that, there’s a desire for a goofy mug, extravagant garnishes, and setting things on fire—sometimes you need a little maximalism.”

The Party is the People 

How to use your friends, in the best way possible,
to throw the most epic of holiday parties.

EDITED BY JANELLE ERLICHMAN DIAMOND

CREATIVE DIRECTION & STYLING BY JAMIE CAMPBELL BYNUM OF JUNIPER HOUSE STUDIO

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIE HOVE ANDERSEN

“I think the idea is that in our friends group, especially with old friends getting together for the holidays, we all bring something to the table. Because of recent events, the act of simply getting together is now a gift and a celebration.”

—Jamie Campbell Bynum, Juniper House Studio

The Hosts

Jamie Campbell Bynum and Drury Bynum

The Guests

Megan Isennock, Dan Martinez, Colin Marshall, Hilton Carter, and Fiona Vismans

How to Properly Guest

Dish: For a shared meal, bring your food in a ready-to-serve dish—no Tupperware, along with the proper serving utensils.

Flowers: If you bring your hosts flowers, have them already prepped in a vessel. No one wants to be snipping stems and searching for a vase as guests arrive.

Wine: Make sure the bottle is ready to go at the appropriate temperature.

Ice: Bring a bag of ice; you always need more ice.

Toast: Toast your host, then keep an eye on their glass and offer to refill it when it seems low.

Clean-up: Offer to help clean up. The host will most likely say no, but the thought is there.

“I’m going for simplicity. No sweeping tablescapes. More like something we’d do for ourselves, but a little more elevated, a little foraged, a little found, with a stylish splash of a floral designer.”

Black Tuesday

By The Baltimore Spirits Company

• 2 oz. Epoch Rye
• 1 oz. Amaro Averna
• 3 shakes Black Walnut Bitters

Stir and strain over ice in a rocks glass. Express an orange over the top of the drink, and drop the orange peel in for garnish.

The Duchess of Earl Grey

By The Baltimore Spirits Company

• 25 oz. (1 bottle) Shot Tower Gin
• 25 oz. Earl Grey tea (fresh brewed)
• 6.5 oz. fresh-squeezed lime juice
• 2 cups white sugar
• 1 cup coconut palm sugar
• 8 limes
• Fresh nutmeg, grated for garnish

Peel the limes. Try just to get the peel and not the white pith. Put the peels in a bowl with all the sugar. Mash the peels into the sugar for about 5 minutes. Let the peels sit in the sugar for 30 minutes to an hour. Pour all the sugar with the peels into a container with all the other ingredients and mix until the sugar is dissolved. Strain the mixture to remove the peels. Serve from a punch bowl over ice and grate fresh nutmeg on top.

Bring Fresh Oysters to Your Next Party. It’s Food and a Show. 

Don’t be afraid: With a decent shucking knife and a kitchen towel or two, you can handle anything.

Buy great oysters: Oysters are sold alive and should be closed tight. A popped-open oyster is a dead oyster. We’re partial to Maryland-farmed ones, ourselves.

Keep ’em chill: Store them in your refrigerator by putting the net bag they come in inside of a bowl with a damp towel on top. Don’t put them in a sealed plastic bag.

Ice, ice, baby: Oysters don’t need extra ice in the fridge. But, when you take them out to shuck, put them on ice. Serve them on ice, too.

Garnish it: The toppings are part of the fun. Wedge a few lemons,
grab some good cocktail sauce, add a ramekin of horseradish, and try making a creative mignonette.

– Kathleen Tozzi, True Chesapeake Oyster Co.

“We wanted an approachable but elevated table and menu to show how to do this in a way that’s cool and high style, but doable.”

Hostess Gifts

Green/gold tray, Earl Gray tea candle, Ruxton Mercantile; Madhu chocolates, Good Neighbor; Bella Cucina aromatic salts, In Watermelon Sugar; Lord Jones gummies, Hedgerow; brie warmer, Ruxton Mercantile.

Mad About Magnums

A magnum bottle of wine, or party-size, as some would say, is just about the best thing you can bring to a gathering. At 1.5 liters, it’s the equivalent of two bottles of wine. Not only does the wine age better in magnum bottles, but pouring it in front of all your friends and family is cinematic. It is a true delight to share.

—Lane Harlan, Angels Ate Lemons 

How to Make the Perfect Party Playlist

I like a mix of old and new songs that makes me happy, like Devandra Banhart, Beach House, and Leon Bridges; stuff that feels nostalgic, like Vince Guaraldi’s “Charlie Brown Christmas”; anything by Etta James and Nat King Cole; and music that makes me want to hang out till the wee hours, like Frank Ocean, Solange, and Future Islands.

–Jamie Campbell Bynum, Juniper House Studio 

[Editor’s Note: This piece was published as part of our October 2021 cover story “The Mighty Oyster.” Read the full package, here.]

When did oyster bars become the coolest places to eat? Over the past few years, these seafood spots have crept their way onto lists of the hippest dining establishments, and for good reason.

Like oysters, they’re the just-right mix of no-frills and fancy, encouraging a way of eating that’s steeped in nostalgia, supportive of the farm-to-table movement, and features a central communal dining space around which friends and strangers can come together even in divisive times. It’s a trend we hope is here to stay.

Order a dozen—or few—at any of these city favorites.

DYLAN’S OYSTER CELLAR

Hampden

The perfect oyster bar exists on a quiet corner in Hampden, where a mermaid mural mingles with a half-shell-eating Jesus collage and, in non-COVID times, happy hour includes Natty Boh tallboys and buck-a-shuck specials from their thoughtfully curated selection. Owners Dylan and Irene Salmon live up to their seafoody last name. 3601 Chestnut Ave.

THE LOCAL OYSTER

Mt. Vernon

From shucking on the city streets to a brick-and-mortar at Mount Vernon Marketplace (plus a new location coming soon), the L.O.’s beloved bivalve slinger Nick Schauman has played a vital part in making oysters cool again in Baltimore, with his casual bar being one of the best hangouts in town. 520 Park Ave.

FAIDLEY’S SEAFOOD

Downtown

It is a rite of passage to sit down to a paper plate of fat half-shells at the central raw bar of this O.G. seafood establishment in Lexington Market. In ole Bawlmer fashion, they serve them on the “flats,” or top shell, with lemon and a pack of Saltines. Order a beer, and be sure to chat up Lou if he’s your shucker. 203 N. Paca St.

MAMA’S ON THE HALF SHELL

Canton

Now in its 18th year, this Canton corner bar has become a Baltimore classic, with weekend afternoons usually overflowing with locals who have flocked for oysters nearly every way you can eat them, alongside freshly squeezed orange crushes and Orioles and Ravens games on the TV. An ideal Saturday afternoon. 2901 O’Donnell St.

THAMES STREET OYSTER HOUSE

Fells Point

For a while, this Fells Point seafood haven was the only game in town serving up fine-dining flights of oysters, but even as new spots have come onto the scene, theirs remain some of the cleanest shucks around. Their impressive oyster list includes top varieties from Canada to the West Coast. 1728 Thames St.

TRUE CHESAPEAKE OYSTER CO.

Hampden

The only oyster farm-owned restaurant in the state, this Whitehall Mill pillar is the outpost of its namesake aquaculture operation. Their Southern Maryland-raised Skinny Dipper and Huckleberry oysters are always hawked at their sleek bar, alongside elevated Chesapeake cuisine by locally loved chef Zack Mills. 3300 Clipper Mill Rd.

THE URBAN OYSTER

Mobile Pop-Up

Currently operating on a mobile basis, this Blackowned oyster pop-up can be found at the Baltimore Farmers Market on Sundays. It’s always worth waiting in line for chef Jasmine Norton’s fan-favorite chargrilled oysters, featuring flavor variations like barbecue-bacon-cheddar and teriyaki. Holliday & Saratoga Sts.

FARTHER AFIELD: Ryleigh’s Oyster, Lutherville-Timonium; Sailor Oyster Bar, Annapolis; Old Ebbitt Grill, Washington, D.C.; Pearl Dive, Washington, D.C.; Ruse, St. Michaels.

After working as the general manager and beverage director at Hampden’s True Chesapeake Oyster Co. since October, Chelsea Gregoire has decided that it’s time to move on.

Gregoire will devote herself full time to her restaurant consulting company, Drinkable Genius.

“I’ve been in this industry a long time,” says Gregoire, who is currently studying for her sommelier certification. “It’s not a massive surprise to anyone that restaurants are really struggling, and the whole business model is really difficult, especially when people cannot gather together. When I started to feel like there was a possibility we might be coming back to work soon, I had to stop and reflect on what my role will be in this new landscape and what that meant for my team.”

It was a decision she made for the greater good. “I knew that if I was able to stay on and take a salary when not everyone was going to be able to come back to work, it wouldn’t sit well with me, especially when I have my own business,” she says. “I’ve bounced back before and I have the ability to do that, so I was in the best position to make that sacrifice and say, ‘You know what? Don’t pay me a salary. Let me make this decision for the good of everyone. You don’t need a general manager for 10 tables and then 20 tables,’” she adds, referring to the reduced capacity for in-person dining.

Gregoire started her wryly named Drinkable Genius in 2016, and went on to help open Ida B’s Table and True Chesapeake Oyster Co., as well as a revamp the cocktail menu for Market Tavern in Sykesville. The modest Gregoire, who was named Esquire magazine’s Beverage Director of the Year in 2019, doesn’t want anyone to think that she’s calling herself a genius with the name of her company.

“The name rolled off the tongue one day,” she says. “And I had to step back and say, ‘Does that make me sound like a jerk?’ Anyone who knows me knows that I don’t think of myself that way, but rather I like to say that I create drinkable works of genius, something exciting and innovative that you can either drink in a cocktail glass or take in through an experience. That’s how the name plays out.”

She has also worked for a number of spirit brands and collaborated on events centered on community building.

“I’ve helped a variety of different restaurants and concepts open for the first time or just provided some guidance in making changes and fine-tuning things,” Gregoire says. “I think people seek me out because of my approach to hospitality. I try to come in and help with all of the math and the costs, as well. Right now, business owners need the ability to step back and figure out how they can save money and earn more money despite the climate. I’m not expecting a ton of response, but I’m hoping that if there’s someone out there who needs a hand and some fresh ideas, they give me a call.”

Gregoire, who earned a master’s degree in theology, found her True North from behind the bar. “A bar creates this wonderful atmosphere of great energy and great community,” says the Baltimore-born, Annapolis-raised hospitality veteran. “Making cocktails and learning about wine and spirits and beer scratches that creative itch and being behind the bar scratches that community itch for me—I just fell in love.”

On Sunday night, Gregoire worked her last shift at True Chesapeake, a project that was years in the making.

“It was bittersweet,” she says. “It always is. You work really hard on a project and get really close to the ownership team and your staff that you curated and brought together. But when it’s time to go, it’s time to go. I feel like we had a great last few days. ‘The kids’ threw me a little get together on Saturday night. Ten of us got together and sat around talked about our memories. On my last night chef [Zack Mills] and I had a glass of Champagne together. It was just really good send off.”

Then again, Gregoire, who lives in Whitehall Mill on the grounds of the restaurant, isn’t straying very far. “I know we will stay in touch,” she says.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/6-7: Serce Pop-Up
Chef Antoni Szachowicz—who cut his teeth at fine-dining spots such as Lemaire in Richmond, Virginia, The Oval Room in Washington, D.C., and Inferno Pizzeria in Gaithersburg—has been developing a modern take on Polish cuisine in preparation for a concept that he hopes will become a future brick-and-mortar restaurant. To test out some of his dishes, the chef is hosting a pop-up in the Salt Tavern space in Upper Fells Point March 6-7. Serce, which translates to “heart” in Polish, will highlight a menu of a la carte small plates, as well as accompanying cocktails, beer, and wine. Inspired by Szachowicz’s mother’s cooking and his recent trips to Poland, the menu will include dishes like stuffed cabbage rolls with buckwheat popcorn, mackerel with apple and celery, and potato-fried perch in a pine shoot syrup.

3/8: Guest Chef Dinner at Foraged
True Chesapeake Oyster Co. executive chef Zack Mills is heading to his Hampden neighbor, Foraged, to prepare a special Sunday dinner with chef Chris Amendola. From 5-9 p.m., enjoy an a la carte menu that blends Mills’ seafood expertise with Amendola’s passion for natural ingredients. Plates to look out for will include beef tartare with smoked oyster emulsion, Nashville hot oysters, and oyster pot pie with pork belly.

NEWS

James Beard Semifinalists Announced: Once again, Charm City has been rightfully recognized by the Oscars of the food world. The James Beard Award semifinalists were announced earlier this week, and Remington’s own taqueria and mezcaleria Clavel was named among the national nominees for Outstanding Bar Program for the second year in a row. Since opening in 2015, the spot has gained a reputation for putting mezcal on the map in Baltimore. Its staff even takes routine trips to Mexico each year to meet with farmers and learn more about the agave plant. Though Clavel was not named a finalist last year, we’re keeping our fingers crossed that owner Lane Harlan, chef/owner Carlos Raba, and head bartender Dre Barnhill take home the medal this year.

Equally as exciting: Charleston’s Chef Cindy Wolf—who often cracks that she’s “the Susan Lucci” of the Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic category—was named a finalist for the 13th time. “Congratulations to everyone in our region,” Wolf wrote on Instagram. “I am proud to be a part of this group and going for our 9th [finalist] nomination.” The list will be narrowed down on March 25, and the official awards ceremony in Chicago is scheduled for May 4.

Le Comptoir du Vin Takes Winter Break: Unfortunately, there will be no pistachio celery salad or French lentils served at everyone’s new favorite bistro in Station North this week. After a whirlwind few months that included national acclaim from Bon Appetit and Esquire, the team is taking a well-deserved winter hiatus through March 3. Dinner service will resume on Wednesday, March 4.

OPEN

Good Works Spirit House: After Coelum closed in Canton last month, the owners of the building—who previously ran Gitan Bistro Cru in the space—have initiated a quick turnaround with this new concept. Emphasizing craft cocktails and small plates, the corner bar showcases offerings such as roasted beet salads, bacon-wrapped dates, crispy tater tots, and the “Fresh Start” cocktail made with basil-infused vodka and cucumber lemon shrub.

Squisito Too: This Annapolis-based pizza and pasta palace has expanded its reach with a DIY spinoff that opened its doors in Howard County this month. The fast-casual Squisito Too in Jessup allows diners to customize pasta, salad, and veggie bowls with tons of different protein and topping combinations. Aside from the build-your-own options, there’s also subs, wraps, and oven-fired pizzas to chow down on.

COMING SOON

BurgerFi: Speaking of fast-casual spots, this burger bar is moving into The Avenue at White Marsh this summer—but it isn’t your average chain restaurant. Best known for its massive onion rings, Instagram-worthy shakes, and branded burger buns, the modernized concept uses self-service kiosks that have facial recognition software to remember customers’ favorite orders. In keeping with that approach, the eco-conscious spot also boasts furniture made with recycled material and energy-efficient lighting.

RegionAle: Hearty sandwiches are enough to win us over. But pairing a classic Nashville hot chicken or Wisconsin grilled cheese with local beer, wine, and pre-mixed cocktails from a wall of self-serve taps? Now we’re really all in. This aptly named cafe has been charming Ellicott City diners with its all-American sandwiches and regional beers ever since it opened in 2016. But next month, Baltimore diners won’t have to travel west to get their fill. RegionAle will debut its second location—complete with what is projected to be the city’s largest self-pour beverage wall—in the American Can Building in Canton on Tuesday, February 18. Swing by to get your hands on geographically-inspired eats—including a New York-style Italian hero, pressed Florida cubano, Oregon tuna steak, and, of course, a Maryland crab cake—while downing the DIY beverages.

The Manor Restaurant & Ultralounge: Next week, the famed Mt. Vernon mansion that formerly housed The Brass Elephant—and its most recent iteration, The Elephant—will once again come back to life as a restaurant. But this time around, the concept will also be part-dance lounge. Robert Gay and Josh Persing, the duo who previously operated GAY Lounge just down North Charles Street, are set to officially unveil The Manor Restuarant & Ultralounge on Friday, February 7. Executed by former Baltimore Country Club chef Parker Greene, the menu will offer oven-fired pizzas, chicken sandwiches, and more fine-tuned dishes such as smoked duck with preserved cherries. Veteran bartender Melissa Ray will spearhead the beverage program with a focus on snack-and-cocktail pairings, and the lounge will feature live DJ entertainment on weekends and frequent drag performances throughout the week.

OPEN

&pizza: North Baltimore diners no longer need to venture to Federal Hill to chow down on the more-than-a-foot-long personal pies at this Washington, D.C.-based chain—which appointed Erik Bruner-Yang of Maketto fame as its executive chef last summer. The artsy pizza brand launched its second Baltimore shop on St. Paul Street in Charles Village this week. Decorated with stark red and white walls, the hangout near the Johns Hopkins University campus tops its dough with everything from pepperoni and ricotta to mushrooms and fig balsamic. During the grand opening celebration on February 4, &pizza will offer $5 pies to all customers, as well as free pizza for a year for the first 37 people through the door in celebration of the brand’s 37th shop.

NEWS

True Chesapeake Oyster Co. Launches Brunch: Now that this newbie inside Hampden’s historic Whitehall Mill has had a few months to find its footing, the team is ready to roll out brunch service. Starting on February 9 and continuing every Sunday from 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., executive chef Zack Mills and his team will churn out mid-morning meals including fried chicken and French toast drizzled in bourbon maple syrup, a crab cake benedict with roasted squash, buttermilk biscuits with ham gravy, and, of course, spicy baked oysters sourced from the True Chesapeake farm in Southern Maryland. No brunch is complete without boozy beverages, and—in addition to the requisite mimosas and Bloody Marys—the bar team will be pouring drinks from their brand new winter cocktail menu. Highlights include the vodka and vermouth-infused “Saint Jerome,” (a nod to the St. Mary’s County creek where the farm resides) and the non-alcoholic “Jicaro” made with housemade horchata and allspice.

David Thomas Crowned Chopped Champion Again: A familiar face graced our screens earlier this week when Ida B’s Table chef/owner David Thomas competed on Chopped Champions. The soul food specialist won a match of Food Network’s famed cooking show in 2018, and took home the top prize yet again on an episode that aired Tuesday. His most recent win advanced him to the Grand Champions competition, which will air on Tuesday, February 18. “This journey is extremely humbling, and it’s not over yet,” reads an Instagram post from Thomas, who will be screening the finale at the restaurant for diners looking for a place to tune in. “Thank you to everyone who has supported me on this journey and who continues to support me every day.”

SHUT

Bar Louie: Three of five Maryland locations were victims of Bar Louie’s bankruptcy claims that made headlines earlier this week. The cocktail bar known for its happy hour specials and gastropub fare closed sites in Owings Mills, Wheaton, and Rockville—three of 38 underperforming locations that the were closed across the country. Luckily, the bars in Hunt Valley and White Marsh are still going strong, and the chain is hoping to emerge from bankruptcy within 90 days.

Uncle Wiggly’s Deli & Ice Cream: Towson natives are reeling from the loss of this York Road staple, which has closed its doors. For nearly 20 years, Uncle Wiggly’s has been a go-to for nostalgic desserts, overstuffed sandwiches (like the fan-favorite “Ravenette” that layered turkey with bacon and roasted red peppers), and catching up with friends and neighbors over drippy ice cream cones. A notice posted to the front door of the shop indicates that it was evicted last month. Uncle Wiggly’s closure marks the end of an era for the shopping center on the 6900 block of York Road, which also said goodbye to neighboring consignment shop The Lily Pad last weekend.

We’re almost one month into 2020 and it already feels lighter and brighter. Of course, we all still have our rainy days, but it seems the collective energy is elevated. It helps that there seems to be a spotlight on bringing “wellness” to all areas of life, including our homes, work, workouts, and our plates. Locally, shops and restaurants are starting the year out strong by tapping into these philosophies. Here, we break down four food and drink trends to look out for in 2020 and where to make the most of them around town.

Eco-Friendly Foods

As more information becomes available, restauranteurs and consumers alike are looking for more environmentally-friendly ways to enjoy their favorite things.

“We want people to feel curious about how to eat more sustainably, not intimidated,” says Helena del Pesco, owner of eco-conscious eatery Larder in Old Goucher. “It can feel hard to change habits, even when we know it’s the right thing to do.”

Recently, Baltimore City has made efforts by banning styrofoam and plastic-bags at retail locations, but the team at Larder is taking it a step further by working with the collectors at Compost Cab to keep their operation almost completely compostable. According to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, if food waste were a country, it would be the third-largest greenhouse gas emitter, generating the emissions of more than 37 million passenger vehicles.

Larder’s kitchen scraps, to-go containers, napkins, and utensils are composted at Real Food Farm and processed into soil that can be used to fertilize community gardens and parks.

“Yes it’s an added expense, but ultimately it benefits all of us as opposed to creating a burden for future generations,” Del Pesco says. “I grew up learning the three r’s: Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle. Recycling has proven to be problematic…but composting, if done right, can actually turn our waste into a resource.”

Climate conscious locations across the area are also including more local, seasonal ingredients to cut down on the carbon emissions that come with food transport. Cunningham’s in Towson (whose restaurant is currently under renovation, but downstairs cafe is open for business), cuts out the middle man by sourcing most of its produce and meats from its own farm, located just minutes down the road in Cockeysville. With traditional, sustainable farming methods and organic feed, Cunningham’s farmers work to cultivate items that lessen the restaurant’s carbon footprint.

Seafood fans also know sister spots True Chesapeake Oyster Co. and The Local Oyster as other examples of regional sourcing. The True Chesapeake oyster farm, located in St. Jerome Creek in Southern Maryland, provides not only delicious, meaty mollusks, but a critical habitat for the surrounding ecosystem. Plus, they help clean up the Bay. According to the National Aquarium, a single oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of water in one day.

Mighty Mocktails

We noted the rise of non-alcoholic cocktails last year, and 2020 is proving to be even more accessible to the sober-curious: “We have certainly seen an increase in guest requests for interesting mocktails,” says Rye Street Tavern beverage manager Scott Kollig. “We have a growing collection of recipes behind the bar that our team has created in the moment.”

With mocktails, diners can enjoy all the things that come with social outings without the added baggage. This includes wellness effects across the board—from immediate issues like weight gain, loss of sleep, and hangover pains to long-term health problems like risks of heart disease, high blood pressure, cancer, and alcoholism. Hotel Revival just launched a “Zero Proof and Zero Judgement” menu to create a safe, fun space where guests can enjoy themselves, regardless of their drinking preference. A study published in 2018 shared modest health benefits that a group of adults experienced when they stopped drinking, even for just one month.

And it’s not just your traditional Shirley Temples and fancy lemonades. Bartenders are stepping up their game, creating decadent, inspired creations. La Food Marketa has more than eight slushies and mocktails that incorporate ingredients such as blood orange, acai, dulce creama, and muddled basil. Woodbery Kitchen uses watermelon honey, lemon balm verjus, hibiscus tea, and egg whites.

“We have a few ‘pocket’ mocktails that we utilize as good go-to drinks, but we often simply ask guests what flavors they enjoy or don’t enjoy and will build something bespoke for them,” Kollig adds. “We have various syrups that are non-alcoholic that we can use to elevate the typical citrus flavors, but by far the biggest advantage we have is using Fee Brothers Bitters. Most bitters are alcohol-based, but Fee Brothers are glycerol-based in flavors like plum, cherry, black walnut, and even celery.” Check out a few of our favorite recent mocktails here.

Functional Beverages

After the passage of the farm bill that legalized hemp across the country, we’ve seen CBD start popping up everywhere. CBD, short for cannabidiol, is a non-psychoactive compound extracted from hemp plants. It provides relaxing and sedative effects and it is commonly used to address a variety of symptoms including anxiety, insomnia, inflammation, chronic pain, and depression.

According to the World Health Organization, CBD exhibits “no effects indicative of any abuse or dependence potential.” In Hampden, Artifact Coffee and Vent Coffee Roasters have CBD on their menus as an add-on for hot and cold beverages.

Although you may be hearing more about CBD, it’s not the only drink infusion making a splash on Baltimore menus. At Plantbar’s locations in Brewer’s Hill and Towson, they’ve added collagen to their lengthy list of wellness add-ons that also includes chlorella, oregano oil, turmeric, and spirulina.

“Collagen is a major building block of skin, bones, muscles, tendons, and ligaments,” says Plantbar owner Daniela Troia. “We use it in our upgraded coffees—basically a kicked up bulletproof coffee—and it can be added to smoothies.”

A recent report shows that collagen supplements can increase skin elasticity and hydration. It can also help support joint and bone health, protect lean muscle, and build healthier hair and nails.

If you need an energy boost, Baltimore-based brewery Wild Kombucha has expanded on their offerings to include Icaro Yerba Maté blends. While kombucha has been adding natural probiotics to diets in recent years, the yerba maté extract blended into these new organic green tea beverages is a popular caffeine pick-me-up traditionally used in South America.

Plants, Plants, and More Plants

Plant-based items were also a top highlight in 2019 and continue with increased intensity. Vegetarian and vegan options are flooding the city and new blends are helping flexitarians take steps toward more plants, without making the full switch.

With this in mind, many Baltimore locations are expanding their veggie options, but keeping some of the meatier flavors and textures. At the newly opened Annoula’s Kitchen inside Cross Street Market, diners can grab an open-faced Chickpea Melt on sourdough. North Avenue Market provides meat-like flavors without meat in their rotating specials, like the current Broccoli over Mushroom Duxelle. At Snake Hill in Canton, you can taste a variety of homemade sausages, including three non-meat options like the Smoked Apple Sage made with golden potatoes, as well as an Italian made with eggplant and fennel.

Baltimore is on-trend with leading chefs across the country who are looking to add healthier, planet-friendly options like these. The James Beard Foundation has even created The Blended Burger Project, a movement that encourages chefs to blend at least 25 percent mushrooms into burgers. Tying back to sustainability, this switch could reduce agricultural production-related greenhouse gas emissions and irrigation water demand. Plus, it could reduce global agricultural land demand by more than 14,000 square miles, an area larger than our state of Maryland.

EAT

Jan. 3: Water Song Pop-Up at R. House

R. House, 301 W. 29th St. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Free.

As the weather turns chilly this weekend, curl up with a bowl of authentic rice noodles to get a taste of Yunnan, China. During its final weekend in the R. House pop-up stall, Water Song will be serving up its signature combination of Mixian rice noodles, a tasty broth, a touch of meat, and tons of chili oil, along with fan favorites like spicy wonton soup and crispy pork chunks. If you still need a bit of convincing, check out Water Song’s drool-worthy Instagram photos to seal the deal.

DRINK

Jan. 3: Foam Fridays

Diamondback Beer, 1215 E. Fort Ave. 12-11 p.m. Free.

If your New Year’s resolution was to make 2020 the year of beer, this lager-loving night at Diamondback Brewing is the perfect way to kick it off. Every Friday, the South Baltimore brewery celebrates its growing selection of crisp lager beers with half-liter pours at only $4.50. Belly up to the bar to try this week’s featured brew: A 4.0 percent Czech pilsner with, of course, a healthy layer of foam on top.

SEE

Jan. 3-5: Baltimore Crankie Fest

Creative Alliance, 3134 Eastern Ave. Times vary. $18.

Rediscover the art of storytelling through crankies—scrolls that are hand-cranked to show one illustrated scene at a time—during the seventh annual Baltimore Crankie Fest. Head to Creative Alliance for this celebration of the niche visual medium, featuring four performances with handmade crankies accompanied by musical guests. Watch as these hand-drawn stories unfurl before your eyes and participate in workshops on how to make your own crankie.

HEAR

Jan. 3: Letitia VanSant and Arty Hill

True Chesapeake Oyster Co., 3300 Clipper Mill Rd. 9-11 p.m. Free.

There’s been plenty of buzz going around about True Chesapeake Oyster Co., the new farm-to-table concept inside Whitehall Mill in Hampden. This Friday, in between slurps of half-shell oysters, hear local songstress Letitia VanSant and country singer Arty Hill serenade the late-night crowd with original tunes and classic covers. Or, as Hill puts it, it’ll be a night of he and VanSant “singing harmony and making fun of each other near delicious seafood.”

DO

Jan. 3-12: Pajama Party Palooza

Port Discovery Children’s Museum, 35 Market Pl. Times vary. Free-$17.95.

Let’s face it: We all get a little stir crazy during the holidays. Luckily, Port Discovery Children’s Museum is hosting the perfect opportunity to get the kiddos out of the house with this daytime pajama party, featuring pillowcase races, sock “skates,” and oversized games. Your little ones will spend the final days of winter break making jammies, watching movies with new friends, and participating in tons of indoor activities at the downtown museum.

The dining scene continues to soar, and, oh, what a year it was to eat—and drink—in Baltimore. What didn’t I eat this year? From foie gras and snails to matcha ice cream and crab cakes with succotash, I enjoyed it all. But a few things stand out, and there’s a theme to my picks here. Life is complicated enough—when it comes to dining out, this was the year I craved simple sandwiches, comfort food, and mezcal-based cocktails to wash it all down. In looking back, who knew that celery—a vegetable of last resort—would play a starring role on my best bites list?

The Mezcalita at Clavel

I eat in restaurants for a living, so I try not to order the same dishes (or drinks) again and again when I’m dining out. That’s how I came to discover the mezcalita. The margarita at Clavel is likely my favorite liquid on the planet, but I branched out this year and moved on to the mezcalita, an impossibly smoky, sweet, and spicy concoction that should be savored with every sip. If I’m being completely honest, I originally ordered my go-to margarita at this Remington hotspot, but the mezcalita was brought to the table instead. Talk about happy accidents.

The Clam Dip at True Chesapeake Oyster Co.

It’s hard to find a good clam dip—or any clam dip for that matter—outside of New England, so I couldn’t resist trying this offering at the seafood-centric True Chesapeake in Whitehall Mill. This version, an old family recipe that comes from owner Patrick Hudson’s grandmother, was loaded with fat and luscious clams. And the house-potato chips, impossibly crispy and nicely salted, were the perfect foil for dunking and cutting the richness of the creamy dip.

The Fried Chicken Sandwich at The Choptank

Who gets a fried chicken sandwich at a crabhouse? I do. Making good fried chicken is an art form, and chef Andrew Weinzirl has demonstrated it at this new upscale crab house in Fells Point. An air-chilled, buttermilk-brined breast allows the meat to stay moist and stand up to the coating. A tangy mumbo sauce adds heat and a house-made slaw adds crunch. Think heaven in a bun.

Cornmeal Fried Oysters at Charleston

No one knows how to fry an oyster better than James Beard-nominated chef Cindy Wolf at this Harbor East gem. With six to an order, and accompanied by a kicky cayenne mayonnaise, they’re all too easy to eat like candy. Learning some restraint takes willpower, but I’ve learned to savor each and every bite—it leaves me with less longing between visits.

Falafel Salad at The Corner Pantry

This sweet spot in the Lake Falls Village shopping center is one of my favorite stops for creative and always fresh salads. Chef Neil Howell is a Brit, but it seems he’s also mastered Middle Eastern cuisine. His house-made falafel on a bed of green with tahini dressing is delicious. No shortcuts are taken here, even the pita chips are house-made.

Pesce al Brodetto at Limoncello

This Locust Point newcomer that celebrates the treasures of Southern Italian coastal cooking has been great straight out of the gate. To wit, the pesce al brodetto, a beautiful bowl rife with Manila clams, calamari, head-on shrimp, scallops, fish, tomatoes, and saffron broth. Given the different cooking times for each type of seafood, it’s a dish that can be easily overcooked, but is cooked to perfection here. The accompanying grilled bread adds the final grace note.

The Tilted Burger at The Tilted Row

When is a cheeseburger more than a cheeseburger? When it’s the cheeseburger coming from the kitchen at Bolton Hill’s new gastropub The Tilted Row. Hard to say whether it’s the addition of pimento cheese, the smoky bacon or mile-high mound of onions, the crunchy pickles, or the proprietary sauce that makes it work so well. Or maybe it’s just the alchemy of it all.

The Brussels Sprouts at Birroteca

Just when I thought that I’d eaten enough Brussels sprouts for the rest of my life, I went back for one more serving at Birroteca. This dish, flash-fried Brussels drizzled with chili oil, sitting in a swirl of black garlic aioli and topped with coppa, was my go-to appetizer at this artisanal pizza spot for many years, but I hadn’t been in some time. After the recent passing of its owner Robbin Haas, I went as an homage. It was as good as ever and a fitting legacy of a beloved restaurateur.

Raspberry Macarons (Or Any Macarons) at Sacré Sucré

Everyone and their uncle likes to call a cookie a macaron, but very few are the real deal. These are. Spouses Dane Thibodeaux and Manuel Sanchez use real fruit fillings and no artificial ingredients for their confections, which come in a variety of delectable flavors including salty caramel, vanilla, chocolate, and lemon. I love the burst of tangy raspberry to offset the sweetness, plus, I’m pretty sure it counts as my daily fruit serving.

The Celery Salad at Le Comptoir du Vin

There’s a reason that Station North’s tiny boîte, Le Comptoir du Vin, became an almost overnight sensation, landing on Bon Appetit’s Hot 10 List and earning a spot on Esquire’s list of Best New Restaurants in America. It’s that good. But likely its star status came from, of all things, this celery salad, flecked with pistachios and dates and coltura (anchovies). It’s a study in salt and sweet—a humble salad that’s also incredibly refreshing. Really, the best of my best bites.

At only 29, Chelsea Gregoire—Baltimore-born, Annapolis-raised—has worked at a number of spots around town, from Dooby’s to City Café to Ida B’s Table. She also runs her own consulting company, Drinkable Genius, and hosts workshops all over the country.

Her most recent role is general manager and beverage director at True Chesapeake Oyster Co. in Hampden’s Whitehall Mill, a post that has earned her a coveted nod from Esquire magazine as Beverage Director of the Year.

When asked how to distill down the question, “Who is Chelsea Gregoire?” the former theology major talks about creating her own sacred community behind the bar. “I really care about caring,” she says. “I give a damn about giving a damn. I feel too deeply, but that’s what makes us human.”

Her spiritual life continues in hospitality work. “There’s always an element of spirituality in my life,” she says, “whether it’s a reverence for human beings and for the environment or for the basic needs of all people that flows through me.” (Let’s cheers to that.)

We caught up with Gregoire to chat about her recent award, how theology led to a career in the hospitality industry, and what to drink at True Chesapeake.

How are you feeling about being in the spotlight? I’m sure that you would have been thrilled with being named the Best Beverage Director in Maryland, but being named Beverage Director of the Year on a national scale—that’s next level.
I feel completely overwhelmed in all positive ways—I am on Cloud Nine. I’m not one who likes attention, so having all of this attention is a little weird for me. It’s exciting—it means that I get to represent Baltimore on a national stage and that’s a huge deal. I’m just taking it day by day.

What was your reaction to the news when you heard?
I woke up to this email from Esquire [last Wednesday] and I wanted to scream, cry, and pass out all at once. Instead, I went with my wife to La Cuchara to celebrate that night—and then I went to work.

You have two degrees in theology. How did you segue from your studies to working in hospitality?
I enjoyed my theology classes when I was at Jerry Falwell’s Liberty University and was one of the few women in the program. When you graduate with a master’s in theology, you either teach or you pastor at a church. I thought I would teach for a bit, but as soon as I came out as gay in 2013, the opportunities were all gone. But I’d worked in restaurants and cafes all through college, and I realized that community in a restaurant or bar is really beautiful.

I love the idea of all these people working together. There’s something really poignant and beautiful about going to a restaurant that makes you feel like you’re at home and a part of something—it nourishes you, obviously. Getting nourishment is a human need that we have but, also, it provides an unmatched opportunity for community and getting to know other people and where they come from.

Tell me about the wine and beer program at True Chesapeake.
We have a large wine program that spans a lot of regions around the world and magnifies the flavors that chef [Zack Mills] is working with. We have something for everyone with a wide swatch of pricing. All of our beers are local or just over the Pennsylvania line. And we have one beer from Virginia that’s a nod to [co-owner] Nick Schauman’s The Local Oyster in Ballston.

And what about cocktails?
I’ve done enough cocktail programs at this point that I generally walk through with a framework—keeping in mind what flavors and ideas I want to hit. But, in researching this menu, I also went on an adventure to all the places in the watershed that I grew up going to as a kid—the parks, the waterfront, being out on the water and eating random things from nature. I allowed those smells and experiences to dictate where the menu went.

True Chesapeake is about home for me and Zack and Nick and [co-owner] Patrick [Hudson]—this is home for us. I always felt so lucky to grow up so close to the water, particularly the Chesapeake Bay and all of its estuaries and the watershed in general. I felt that it was so important that my experiences of growing up in this area, and how much they echoed these bodies of water and the sights and sounds and nature surrounding them, was seen through the cocktail menu.

Your cocktails are clever in every way, from the ingredients to the names. How do you name them?
“Holy Lagoon” is the tiki-inspired drink that we have on the menu right now. Little known fact: St. Jerome Creek, where are oysters are grown, is actually a lagoon. It’s named after a saint. I was like, “‘Holy Lagoon’ would be a perfect name for a drink.” It’s as if it was actually a tiki drink before it was a tiki drink.

Any other inspiration?
“Prettyboy” is named after the reservoir…and there are tiny hints to this area throughout. Take “Old Foraged” [Old Forester bourbon bitters, spicebush turbinado, citrus peel]—that name doesn’t necessarily harken back to anything except we use spicebush to infuse our turbinado syrup that grows all over the area. You can go out to the woods and probably find it right now. “By Word Nor Deed” [sotol, amontillado sherry, lemon oleo, applejack, bitters] is boozy, but balanced because it has amontillado sherry. “By Word Nor Deed” is both a reference to the Maryland state motto, but also a direct quote from Edgar Allan Poe’s, “The Cask of Amontillado.”

What should a first-timer order?
I would tell them to go for the cocktails they are familiar with. Get an “Old Foraged” because you can mentally relate that to an Old Fashioned. Or get “Forester’s Union” [gin, lemon, molasses, smoke] because you can mentally relate that to a gin sour, and then once you have those notions of, ‘This is what this is like,’ in your head, that’s when you get to see what message the bartender is sending. It creates an experience that shows what the concept is about. It’s a more adventurous way to drink. The things that make it different is what makes it exciting.

What’s the next big thing? Where are we going with cocktails?

We are definitely headed in a direction where every cocktail menu will have something that is without alcohol in it. It’s less of a trend and more of a style of drinking. People are slowing down more. Through college, it’s ripping shots and chugging beers, but people are starting to take the time to appreciate what’s in front of them—that’s the same with food, too. People are starting to appreciate where things come from and the work that it took to source it. Beers and shots are going to pay the bills, but the conversation that comes from a person who really wants to learn and understand what they’re drinking is happening more often all over the industry.

What will the Beverage Director of the Year accolade mean for you?
I’m hoping this will afford me other opportunities, but I’m never leaving Baltimore.

COMING SOON

BRD: Back in February, we told you about R. House chicken sandwich stall BRD’s plans to expand to the heart of Federal Hill. After months of work setting up the eatery on the bottom floor of the Wheelhouse apartment building across from Cross Street Market, a grand opening date is finally in sight. Owner Alex Janian will debut his second BRD location to the public on Monday, October 7, offering an extended menu that will highlight new items like thick milkshakes and “BRD Bites”—his take on chicken nuggets.

Of course, diners can also expect the signature sandwiches (including the Katsu Sando and the Bmore Bird with Old Bay and dill pickles) hand-cut fries, dipping sauces, and fountain sodas that they have grown familiar with at the Remington flagship. The best part? The communal dining space designed by PI.KL Studio will be open until 3 a.m. on weekends so that revelers hanging around South Charles Street can still get their fix after last call. “We want to be there when people want it,” Janian told us. “We want to be there when the crowds are there, and we want to be enjoying the night right along with them.”

True Chesapeake Oyster Co.: Speaking of anticipated grand openings, this new Hampden spot will officially premiere to the public on Tuesday, October 8. As its name signifies, the collaborative project between former Wit & Wisdom chef Zack Mills, True Chesapeake oyster farmer Patrick Hudson, and The Local Oyster owner Nick Schauman will incorporate locally farmed bivalves into every aspect of the restaurant. Featured dishes will include oyster stew, semolina fried oysters, roasted half shells, and Mills’ take on a classic Rockefeller. Of course, there will also be other Maryland-inspired fare and an impressive bar lineup from beverage director and general manager Chelsea Gregoire.

OPEN

Red Pepper Sichuan Bistro: The former Allegheny Avenue home of La Cakerie in Towson has recently been transformed from a hot pink-painted bakery into this sleek dining destination specializing in authentic Sichuan cuisine. Fusing salty, sour, sweet, bitter, and floral flavors, the menu—written in both Chinese and English—goes beyond the traditional Kung Pao chicken and mapo tofu with everything from noodle soups to Sichuan street food. Highlights include spicy hot pots, fried pork with scallions, stir-fry Shanghai cabbage, and sweet-and-sour fish fillets. Diners are invited to snag a table in the renovated dining room—now equipped with wooden furniture and a grand piano—or order online for carryout.

NEWS

Lexington Market to Hold Second Community Meeting: The second in a series of quarterly meetings geared toward gathering community input for the Lexington Market revamp, slated to be completed mid-2021, is scheduled for Wednesday, October 9 from 6-7:30 p.m. The inaugural meeting at the end of June drew crowds that expressed a number of concerns, including increased food prices and a lack of employment opportunities. At the next installment, Seawall Development and Baltimore Public Markets plan to further discuss food access, affordable pricing options, and the recruitment process for new vendors inside the 237-year-old public market. In an effort to gain as much feedback as possible, organizers will be offering free childcare during the town hall.

“The project to transform Lexington Market represents an opportunity to prove that brought together in an inclusive way, a single building can unite a very divided city,” said Seawall co-founder Thibault Manekin, in a press release. “We look forward to sharing the progress we have made as a result of hundreds of hours of deep listening and inspiring conversations that we have had all over the city.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/26: Origins: A Speaker Series

The latest iteration of this ongoing speaker series at Artifact Coffee—which we recently gave a Best of Baltimore award—aims to answer one pivotal question: Is it now or never for local farms? Listen in as a panel of female farmers—including Shelby Kalm of Fair Farms Maryland, Dena Leibman of Future Harvest CASA, and Anne Palmer of the Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future—discuss the state of agriculture across the mid-Atlantic. As always, the evening will begin with appetizers and cocktails and close out with a family-style meal inspired by the topic of conversation.

9/26-28: Saint Demetrios Greek Festival

The parishioners of Saint Demetrios Greek Orthodox Church in Parkville have been busy hand-making flaky baklava, stuffed dolmades (grape leaves), scrumptious spanakopita, and more tasty delicacies in preparation for their annual festival returning this weekend. Stop by to sample the flavors of Greece while enjoying folk dancing, live music, shopping, and a designated kids zone. If you still aren’t ready to turn in after all of the excitement, stay out for the Glendi on the Hill after party that will keep the music going until 3 a.m.

9/29: Bramble Bakes x Fat Tiger Bake Sale

Since opening inside Broadway Market in Fells Point last summer, sister concepts Old Boy, Fat Tiger, and El Tigre have already hosted tons of community pop-ups and events. And this weekend, all-day bar Fat Tiger is kicking off yet another initiative to support its fellow food businesses. In the first of many “bake sales” that will provide a temporary storefront to local pastry chefs, Allie Smith of Bramble Bakes will be setting up shop at the centerpiece bar to sell her sweet treats from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. this Sunday. Be on the lookout for potato and leek hand pies, dark chocolate babka knots, five-spice morning buns, and coffee cardamom shortbread all paired with espresso and drip drinks from the Fat Tiger team.

OPEN

C&R Pub: We thought we’d seen the last of this Southern saloon, which used to be a go-to for honky-tonk tunes, life-sized Jenga, and Thursday “flip-night” drink discounts before it closed in Federal Hill two years ago. But old regulars will be happy to hear that the country concept has officially been revived—this time in Towson. The new iteration of Cowboys & Rednecks sits on the first floor of the mixed-use Towson Commons development along York Road. Featuring dark woods, plenty of flat screens, and a huge bar with more than 20 seats, the pub offers a barbecue-inspired menu listing everything from light bites to larger entrees. Specialty plates include the Rattlesnake Burger with jalapeño bacon, “Mountain Mama” steak salad, and signature “See Ya Later Gator” bites served with a zesty dipping sauce. 1 W. Pennsylvania Ave., Towson

Poulet: A second location of this popular spot off of Falls Road celebrated its grand opening in Timonium this week. Situated just across from the Maryland State Fairgrounds, the new eatery will offer the restaurant’s cafeteria-style entrees, sides, and hand-dipped ice cream in a much larger space that can seat more than 200. It will also feature an elevated bar program with a collection of small-batch whiskeys, wine on tap, and local craft beer from the likes of RAR and Union Craft. In keeping with its name, Poulet highlights rotisserie chicken and other proteins like sliced turkey, pulled pork, and grilled salmon. There’s also a lengthy sandwich menu, DIY burrito bar, and featured sides like scalloped potatoes and grilled cauliflower. 2235 York Rd., Timonium. 410-842-2270

COMING SOON

Lee’s Pint & Shell: Since rebranding from its former concept, Saute, two years ago, Lee’s Pint & Shell has become a favorite for Canton locals to crack open discounted beers and slurp down 50-cent oysters during happy hour. Now, the corner spot is rapidly expanding throughout the state. In addition to their dockbar Lee’s Landing in Cecil County, owners Bud Craven and David Carey are also planning to open a sister-spot in Sparrows Point this year. And, earlier this week, they announced that they recently settled on a fourth location on the Susquehanna River in Perryville. The old Perryville Yacht Club—which sits on four acres and has 80 boat slips—will soon be transformed into a Lee’s spinoff, with plenty of oysters, Orange Crushes, and seafood specialties to go around. 31 River Rd., Perryville.

The Urban Oyster: Chef Jasmine Norton’s beloved oyster bar will host one final pop-up at R. House next month before moving into a brick-and-mortar space of its own in 2019. The Urban Oyster plans to set up shop inside the former home of Ruby 8 Noodles & Sushi at McHenry Row in Locust Point early next year. Norton recently told The Baltimore Sun that the new eatery will provide kitchen space for her to prepare for farmers’ markets and festivals, while also acting as a permanent outpost for diners to find her oyster-inspired eats any time. Menu favorites include chargrilled oysters with parmesan and lemon-garlic butter, fried oyster tacos, a classic crab cake sandwich, and, of course, raw oysters on the half shell. 1702 Whetstone Way

NEWS

John Brown Butchery Adds Antique Shop: As the temperatures continue to drop and the holiday season approaches, it’s the perfect time to pay a visit to this hybrid-butchery, cafe, general store, and coffee shop in Cockeysville. Not only is the destination offering a wide selection Thanksgiving turkeys and holiday meats this season, but it has also added a new antiques shop, Hedgerow, for shoppers looking for unique gifts and decorations. Stop by the butchery to chow down on a cold cut sandwich or meatball sub before browsing the one-of-a-kind artwork, china, and table centerpieces at the new antique store. 13501 Falls Rd., Cockeysville. 410-891-8549

Hotel Monaco Wins Northstar Meetings Group Award: Congratulations are in order for downtown’s Kimpton Hotel Monaco, which recently received the 2018 Stella Award for Best Boutique Property in the Northeast region. Northstar Meetings Group presented the award to honor the hotel’s excellence in the meetings industry—considering its food and beverage program, staff professionalism, technological amenities, and more. The hotel, which houses celebrated bar and restaurant B&O American Brasserie, was one of 532 global properties nominated in 18 categories. 2 N. Charles St. 443-692-6170

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/17: Oyfest 5
The teams behind Union Craft Brewing, The Local Oyster, and True Chesapeake Oyster Company are coming together to host this fifth-annual festival at Union Collective this weekend. Grab a crew and enjoy endless shucks, draft beers, pizza from Well Crafted, and live tunes by the Ursula Ricks Project. If you’re really feeling festive, throw your hat in the ring during the annual oyster-eating contest. The $50 entrance fee, and a portion of all other proceeds, will be donated directly to the Friends of the Jones Falls Valley to keep our urban waterway clean and beautiful. 1700 W. 41st St. 12-5 p.m. $15-50

11/18: Put a Scoop on It Pancake Pop-Up with Big Softy
Detroit native Craig Falk, owner and executive chef of The Lunchbox Lady, is celebrating his love for pancakes this weekend by hosting an afternoon event with The Charmery owners David and Laura Alima at their shop in Towson. Falk’s Big Softy pop-up will be dishing out plain and malty chip pancakes topped with either blueberry or apple fruit topping. Each treat will be finished off with a scoop of any Charmery flavor, drizzle of Michigan maple syrup, and sprinkle of powdered sugar. 6807 York Rd., Towson. 10 a.m.-1 p.m. 443-275-2859

SHUT

Ludlow Market: It was a short-lived run for this concept that took over the former Wine Market Bistro space in Locust Point last summer. In June, longtime owner Chris Spann reopened the 14-year-old restaurant as Ludlow Market, featuring a new menu by chef Christopher Audia, updated interior, and enhanced outdoor patio. But, sadly, the changes weren’t enough to keep the restaurant afloat. “I think ultimately we didn’t allocate enough marketing dollars to give the concept a chance to take hold with people,” Spann says. “That’s where we came up short. But I find a lot of solace in the interactions I had with guests who were so enthusiastic, and often giddy about some of the signature dishes we had put on the menu.” While the restaurant has closed for good, its adjoining bottle shop will be offering discounts on its remaining stock throughout the weekend. 921 E. Fort Ave.

OPEN

Patterson Public House: Patterson Park locals may have noticed fresh signage at the corner spot that formerly housed BistroRx. Last week, new owners Tanya Gralto and Scott Lanphear reopened the space as Patterson Public House—a neighborhood tavern serving seasonal pub fare. Highlights on the summer menu include a cherry salad with whipped goat cheese, Cape May tilefish with chanterelle mushrooms, and a soon-to-be signature Public House burger topped with local tomato and Amish cheddar. Patterson Public also features an expansive list of house cocktails and local draft beers from the likes of Monument City and The Brewer’s Art. 2901 E. Baltimore St., 443-388-9887

COMING SOON

1817: Although the brand new Guinness Open Gate Brewery & Barrel House in Halethorpe will officially debut to the public on Friday, August 3, patrons are going to have to wait a bit longer for its third-floor restaurant to officially open for business. Named after the year that Guinness was first brewed, 1817 will offer a menu of Maryland classics alongside Irish staples. Expected to open next month, the beer bar will feature a Dublin-inspired pub feel and overlook the property’s pint-glass landscaped lawn. 5001 Washington Blvd., Halethorpe.

Poulet: Lutherville locals will be happy to hear that Poulet, the popular take-out spot off of Falls Road, will be opening a second location in the former Famous Dave’s space in Timonium this fall. Owner Jonathan Soudry recently told the Baltimore Business Journal that the new eatery will maintain its cafeteria-style service and offer nearly 200 seats. Diners can look forward to Poulet’s signature meats (think rotisserie chicken pulled pork), sides, and housemade ice cream, as well as beer, wine, and cocktail offerings. 2235 York Rd. Timonium.

True Chesapeake Oyster House: Earlier this week, partners Nick Schauman of The Local Oyster and Patrick Hudson of True Chesapeake Oyster Co. announced that they would be teaming up with chef Zack Mills to open a new restaurant at Whitehall Mill next year. Mills—who left his longtime post at Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons in June—says that the Chesapeake fare will continue his passion for regional cuisine. “We really want to showcase what Maryland is doing for us,” he says. “That’s something that has always been near and dear to my heart.” Slated to open in early 2019, the 100-seat restaurant will feature an Americana vibe with a full bar and 50-seat patio. 3300 Clipper Mill Rd.

NATIONAL OYSTER DAY SPECIALS

8/5: National Oyster Day at Mt. Washington Tavern
This Sunday, head to Mt. Washington Tavern for an afternoon event supporting the Oyster Recovery Partnership. For every oyster sold from 2-5 p.m., 10 spats (baby oysters) will be planted in the Chesapeake Bay. Enjoy the beloved bivalves raw, grilled, or shooter style while sipping discounted Heavy Seas and Manor Hill beers. 5700 Newbury St. 2-5 p.m., 410-367-6903

8/5: Oyster Day Patio Party at Gunther & Co.
Gunther & Co. in Brewers Hill is hosting another fundraiser for the Oyster Recovery Partnership this weekend. Soak up some sun on the patio while slurping oysters every which way—raw, roasted, and fried—and sipping beers from Oliver Brewing Co. There will also be live music spun by DJ Impulse, and guests will have a chance to mingle with visiting oystermen from Virginia’s Sapidus Farms. Admission is $45 with $5 of every ticket being donated to the Oyster Recovery Partnership. 3650 Toone St. 3-5 p.m. $45, 443-869-6874

TO 8/19: Urban Oyster Pop-Up at R. House
Swing by the rotating pop-up stall at R. House in Remington to visit Urban Oyster owner chef Jasmine Norton, who will be slinging her signature ‘sters. Whether you like them chargrilled, on the half shell, or bundled into a po’ boy, the ongoing pop-up provides plenty of ways to celebrate the foodie holiday in style. 301 W. 29th St.

SHUT

Parts & Labor: Since the news broke that Spike and Amy Gjerde’s meat-focused restaurant in Remington would be closing its doors on August 5, neighbors have been flocking to the spot for one last steak and a final beer around the fire pit out front. Gjerde, who calls the project “a deep dive into local meat,” says that there was a struggle to stay profitable due to the high costs of practicing whole-seam animal butchery. “We probably held on a lot longer than most people would have,” he told us earlier this week. “We realized we were having trouble paying the growers—and that’s not why we are here. We were in major arrears, but at this point it’s a break-even scenario.”

Although this weekend will be the last for locals to order from the regular menu, the Parts & Labor team will be operating a pop-up bar in the space for the next 60 days beginning on Wednesday, August 8. Open Wednesdays-Sundays from 4-10 p.m., the kitchen will feature daily culinary specials ranging from burgers and porchetta sandwiches to a fish fry and a whole pig roast. Of course, there will also be plenty of spirits and beers to go around. 2600 N. Howard St. 443-873-8887

Throughout Zack Mills’ five-year stint at Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore, he became known for participating in chef competitions, riding a bike across the state in support of Moveable Feast, and plating up countless crab cakes and other seafood specialties. But in June, he decided it was time to move on from the restaurant.

“No question, leaving Wit & Wisdom was very bittersweet,” Mills says. “Mainly because I was leaving my team and something that I saw grow for so many years. But when a new opportunity came about, it seemed like the right next move.”

Since his final night of service at Wit, Mills has teamed up with longtime friends Nick Schauman of The Local Oyster and Patrick Hudson of True Chesapeake Oyster Co. to begin a new project of their own. Early next year, the trio will debut True Chesapeake Oyster House in the historic Whitehall Mill development along the Jones Falls.

“This is something I’m really going to be able to sink my teeth into,” Mills says. “These guys have such great energy and knowledge of the industry as a whole. I’m excited to work side-by-side with them.”

A native of Davidsonville, Mills has always had a knack for preparing Chesapeake cuisine. He says that he is looking forward to continuing that passion at the new restaurant, which will focus on regional dishes such as rockfish, crab cakes, steamed shrimp, and, of course, loads of Chesapeake Bay oysters farmed by Hudson and his team in Southern Maryland.

“Oysters are one of my favorite things in the world, so the fact that the restaurant will have them at the forefront is something I’m very excited about,” he says. “You’re definitely going to see bits of what I’ve done in the past as far as plating, ideas, and trying to keep it light and whimsical. But we really want to showcase what Maryland is doing for us. That’s something that has always been near and dear to my heart.”

In fact, Mills says the team is hoping to keep the menu “as local as humanly possible,” mentioning that diners shouldn’t expect to see crab options in the middle of winter. That philosophy will also be reflected in the bar program, which will feature regional spirits and local drafts on tap.

Although his style of cooking won’t be changing much, Mills says that diners can expect to enjoy his dishes at a more approachable price point.

“We want to make sure we’re catering to everybody as far as what they want to spend on a meal,” he says. “The prices are going to range pretty significantly, so if you just want to come and have a quick bite and get a couple of oysters and appetizers, you can do that without breaking the bank. Or if you’re having a celebratory dinner, we’ll have a couple of higher-end items, too.”

The Americana-influenced restaurant will feature roughly 100 seats with a large bar and outdoor patio. Mills says that he is looking forward to executing a project of his own from scratch, but, most of all, he is excited to be doing it with Schauman and Hudson.

“We all have one common goal and that’s just to put out a great restaurant,” he says. “Something that is approachable to everybody, and something that’s kind of a party when you walk in. And there’s just an energy about the place. I couldn’t have asked for a better situation to move forward in my career.”