Chef Johntay Bedingfield took first place on Chopped in 2019, but getting creative during the COVID crisis has also put his talents to the test.

“Restaurants will survive this,” Bedingfield says. “You go out to eat because you don’t have time to cook or you just feel like getting pampered. People can let go and enjoy the moment and the company of people they are with. That’s not going to go away.”

Bedingfield, who grew up watching his mother and grandmother cook, has been La Food Marketa’s executive chef since 2016. But he didn’t come to cooking right away. He studied psychology at Wesley College in Delaware and became a substance abuse counselor before becoming a childcare worker for the Board of Child Care in Baltimore for several years.

“I was like, ‘School is over. I’m in my 20s and have to figure out a career move. Maybe I’ll just start cooking,’” he says. “I had always liked cooking. I love comfort food and home-cooked meals.”

He decided to enroll at Baltimore International College for a master’s degree in international hospitality management. “I got a job at Sunday River in the Towson mall. I started as a prep cook. Right away, I was like, ‘I love this.’”

And the rest is Baltimore food history.

What has it been like at La Food Marketa throughout the crisis?
On March 16th, the day we officially went into a state of emergency, I worked that day, but we weren’t open for service that evening. We laid off all hourly employees—that was extremely difficult—but with not being able to open to capacity, we had to pull the trigger. We have dedicated management teams, so we just spilt them up between the La Food Marketa, [Hampden sister-spot] The Food Market, and our catering, and it was divide and conquer. That Tuesday, we tried curbside pickup. It was slow that night, but pretty much every week has been different. We’ve tried to stay up on what others states and countries are doing that are ahead of us. Safety has been our first priority. That first week we set a handwashing timer. It was an hourly timer so we could get into the cycle of washing our hands. It was annoying, but it worked. Now we call it “muscle hour.” Since we have no tables now, everyone stops and does 10 pushups in the middle of the dining room and washes their hands. It breaks up the day and its team building.

How is your patio dining going?
We just got through our first week of patio dining. When it was put into effect, essentially, we had only 24 hours to turn over outdoor procedures by that Friday, but we didn’t think it was the right time. There was too much to get moving and execute safely and correctly, so we waited. I think a first impression makes all the difference. There’s a level of accountability there that’s hard to gain back once you lose it. We waited until last Monday and I think it couldn’t have gone better. We had a great night. We sat 60 people throughout the night outside, and carryout was still popping.

“That first week we set an hourly handwashing timer so we could get into the cycle of washing our hands. It was annoying, but it worked. Now we call it “muscle hour.” Since we have no tables now, everyone stops and does 10 pushups in the middle of the dining room and washes their hands. It breaks up the day and its team building.” —Johntay Bedingfield

What safety systems have you put in place?
We shifted gears and moved our pickup to the back side of the restaurant. We are requesting that guests wear masks to the table for the safety and the staff is wearing masks the whole time. We have QR codes at the table for contactless menus and hand sanitizer at each table. We are just trying to stay as up with the trends as possible.

How does this change things for you as a chef?
I could spend hours and hours overthinking what the future is going to bring, but I’ve learned it doesn’t do anything for me. It’s 100 percent under the control of the government right now. We could have 30 ideas on what the next move is going to be, but what I’ve learned over the past 13 weeks is to just wait for them to give the word and then you react. I’ve always been a fan of “the worst decision is no decision,” so once they pull the trigger, we will react to that.

How is your revenue?
Our overall revenue is down. You have three factors when it comes to revenue. You have rent, which is fixed. But you have two things you can control, labor and food purchasing, so we’ve controlled both of those things.

How do you know how much to order?
It’s extremely difficult. My food costs have been at 26 percent each week. The goal is 30 percent to make a 10 percent profit. You get what you need to get in the beginning of the week, and then you have to anticipate what you’re going to need for the weekend and keep spending as tight as possible.

Have you had to change the menu?
As a dish comes to me, I just throw it on the menu and see if we can sell it. One thing that has helped a lot is cross utilization of a product, so you’ll see ground turkey across a few dishes. We have it in our house-made turkey chorizo, or you can add it to queso, or get Turkey chorizo tacos, or get a ground turkey taco salad. So you know that you will always be moving the product, which definitely helps. Other than that, it’s all about seasonal for me—cooking with what the farmers have. I recently got these fresh soft shells from J.J. McDonnell and made soft-shell arepas.

Are you finding that diners are more appreciative now?
The diners have absolutely been extremely grateful. They thank us for being here. That makes our job less stressful to know that the community has us and we’ve made the right move by being there for them.

I know that a lot of chefs have had more time to cook at home. Have you?
The restaurant is closed earlier and opening at noon. I’ve had some more time in the morning cooking breakfast, which is really nice.

Do you think fewer people will want to go into hospitality now that they see how hard a business it is?
I joked with my wife, Alexa, that everyone, including all of those people making their sourdough, is a home cook right now. I’d love some of these people to take their passion and come to the restaurant kitchen. I feel like a lot of people have found the simplicity in life. The hustle and bustle have slowed down a little bit. I don’t know what that will do for the restaurant industry if people are cooking at home more, but there will always be a place for restaurants—no question.

“I joked with my wife, Alexa, that everyone, including all of those people making their sourdough, is a home cook right now. I’d love some of these people to take their passion and come to the restaurant kitchen.” —Johntay Bedingfield

I know that Hoopla Hospitality, which includes La Food Marketa, The Food Market, Quality Snowballs, and Hoopla Catering is very community-minded. Have you done anything in the wake of the recent protests for racial justice?
Last Wednesday, we sold gift certificates and 50 percent of gift card sales went to the NAACP.

On a personal note, you recently lost 50 pounds. Can you tell us about it?
I saw myself on Chopped and didn’t like the way I looked. I had a complete lifestyle change.
I just switched my mind to think of what I enjoyed eating. It was easy as a chef to just throw something in the fryer—it cooks super fast and a few minutes later it’s ready to eat. But I told myself that I get the best fruits and vegetables and meat. We work with these local farmers, and the beauty of being in the restaurant is that everything is already set up—your lettuces and tomatoes and cukes are already cut. I just changed my eating habits.

I have this thing that I call, “walking the line.” I start on the cold side and I’ll grab a bowl and start with a base of vegetables, which is going to be lettuce, tomato, and cucumber. Then I walk over to the sauté station and add some onion. And then I throw turkey chorizo on there and add pico de gallo and guacamole. And it’s a one-minute meal. I’ve had this mental switch. I live for a really good salad now.

PI DAY PARTIES

Union Craft Brewing: Enjoy both savory and sweet flavors at Union Collective this Saturday, March 14, when Well Crafted Kitchen and Bramble Baking Co. will be serving slices of pizza and pie from 12-3 p.m. Purchase a slice from Well Crafted and enjoy $1-off at Bramble, and vice versa. Slices and handpies will be available from Bramble, with flavors including Salted Honey Lavender and the Maple Bourbon Pecan. 1700 W 41st St.

Dangerously Delicious Pies: This Baltimore favorite is celebrating Pi Day—and an early St. Patrick’s Day—at its Canton location on Saturday. The shop is turning BYOB from 3-6 p.m., with live music by Irish Relative Anonymous. Enjoy your brew and indulge in a slice of the famous Baltimore Bomb pie, a fun take on the city’s iconic Berger Cookies. Drink more than 3.14 beers and expect special prices in return. 2839 O’Donnell St.

Other eateries around town are also offering aptly priced specials to celebrate the holiday’s famous date. Blaze Pizza in Towson will offer $3.14 pizzas from 3:14 p.m. to close, Oliver Brewing Company will pour $3.14 pints of Sound Check beer from 12-6 p.m., Verde in Canton will pair its Neapolitan pies with $3.14 Limoncello shots, and Molina Pizza at R. House will feature a buy-one, get-one for $3.14 deal on all of its pizzas throughout the day.

(RE)OPEN

The Verandah: After a nine-month hiatus, this Indian restaurant on the Avenue in Hampden is celebrating its grand reopening during dinner service Thursday. Owner Radhika Sule—who also operates a location inside Broadway Market in Fells Point—took the time off to reimagine a new small plates concept for the Hampden cafe, which she says will give diners the opportunity to “try out several unique dishes instead of one big meal.” Among the new dishes on the tapas-style menu are shrimp masala, Vada Paav (Indian-style vegetarian sliders), apricot-glazed chicken wings, salmon with mango chutney, and a pistachio-crusted roulade with lemon cream for dessert. Debuting along with the revamped menu is a completely renovated space featuring warm woods, a mix of bar and traditional table seating, and a transition from counter service to full table service in the dining room. The spot is BYOB—without a corkage fee—and also offers nonalcoholic drinks including mango lassi and ginger-mint lemonade.

COMING SOON

The Food Market and The Charmery Expanding to Columbia: Speaking of The Avenue in Hampden, two of The Verandah’s most popular neighbors are widening their footprint to Howard County later this year. The Howard Hughes Corporation, which is overseeing the mixed-use development of Downtown Columbia, announced earlier this week that chef Chad Gauss will be bringing his fun spins on classic comfort foods to the new Central District near The Mall in Columbia in late 2020. In addition to the beloved lunch, brunch, and dinner menus, the new Food Market will also provide a custom coffee program for workers in nearby office buildings. City-defining ice cream shop The Charmery will also expand this summer with a new shop in Columbia’s Merriweather District, which is anchored by Merriweather Post Pavilion. Customers can look out for signatures like Old Bay Caramel and Maryland Mud, but given owners David and Laura Alima’s commitment to creativity, we wouldn’t be surprised to see a few flavors inspired by Merriweather’s music lineup, as well.

SHUT

Shiso Tavern: This Canton eatery has been a go-to for top-notch sushi and cocktails for more than seven years. But earlier this week, a post to the tavern’s Facebook page announced that the restaurant will close for good on Sunday, March 15. “We take with us many memories and hope you will join us this weekend reminiscing on the good times and celebrating new adventures,” reads the message from management and staff. There’s no word yet on what will become of the space on O’Donnell Square, which was known for its colorful rolls, wok dishes, and daily drink specials.

Bushfires continue to ravage Australia, with at least 28 people dead, more than 3,000 homes destroyed or damaged, and an estimated billion-plus animals lost, according to CNN. Sadly, the unprecedented bushfires have been exacerbated by widespread drought and persistent heat.

In an effort to aid the country and give back, Baltimore chefs are taking matters into their own hands. Both La Food Marketa and Duck Duck Goose will donate proceeds from dinner and brunch service on specific days this weekend in an attempt to help Australia fight the wildfires and rehabilitate.

La Food Marketa, the Pikesville sister restaurant of The Food Market in Hampden, will donate 50 percent of funds from brunch this Sunday, January 19 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., to the Australian Red Cross. The event will be the spot’s latest “Brunch for a Benefit,” an ongoing series that has previously supported organizations such as The Movember Foundation and The Alzheimer’s Association.

“When we opened La Food Marketa, we wanted it to be a community restaurant,” says Chad Gauss, executive chef and co-owner. “We feel that many people want to give back and have sorrow and empathy for what’s happening in Australia, but they might not be familiar with how to give back. We wanted to create an opportunity for people to do that.”

At La Food Marketa, expect a brunch packed with fun takes on omelets, eggs benedict, and pancakes. Highlights include pancake enchiladas stuffed with turkey, cheese, bacon and topped with syrup, as well as the “El Benedict,” featuring cured ham, cheese bread, and Mexican ketchup. As an added bonus, many brunch dishes can be modified to be gluten-free.

Down in Fells Point, Baltimoreans can dine for a good cause at Duck Duck Goose, where all of the proceeds from dinner this Friday night, January 17, will go toward Ellen Degeneres’ Australia Bushfire Relief fund on GoFundMe. Owner Ashish Alfred’s Bethesda location of Duck Duck Goose and his nearby George’s Chophouse will also donate all Friday-night proceeds to the relief fund.

“What’s happening [in Australia] is real—you can’t make that up,” Alfred says. “As chefs, we get into this business because we want to make people happy, care for people, and nourish them. Restaurants become part of the communities we’re in. And I think this was good opportunity for us to get involved in something important overseas.”

Alfred says he and his team kicked around ideas for how to help, until they saw that Degeneres had set up a relief fund and decided to get behind it.

In addition to the signature cheese boards, dry-aged ribeye burger, and honey-roasted duck at Duck Duck Goose, Friday-night diners can also expect a raffle at each of the three restaurants. Alfred says details are still being finalized, but prizes might include giveaways from other local dining destinations and spa treatments.

“I think it’s going to be a fun night,” he adds. “The feedback online has been huge. It’ll be great to see that many people come together for a good cause.”

COMING SOON

Tire Shop Pop-Ups at Parts & Labor: We’ve been keeping tabs on this former car-and tire-repair-shop-turned-Remington restaurant since Parts & Labor served its last cuts of meat in the space last summer. A new pop-up series is preparing to reactivate the space with public food events featuring local purveyors. The first of many such events is scheduled for August 10 from 12-5 p.m., when the barbecue buffs with Bark BBQ will serve up their Texas-style smoked meats with signature sides like pickled cucumbers and corn on the cob. Joining them for the inaugural celebration will be Locust Point’s Diamondback Brewing and R. House’s R. Bar. Hopefully we’ll see a more permanent revival soon, but, for now, it will be nice to see (and smell) meats being smoked in the space again.

Koba BBQ: It’s been quite some time since we’ve seen a restaurant operate inside the standalone building at Belvedere Square—which has become notorious for its turnaround rate throughout the years. North Baltimore locals might remember as far back as 2004, when it operated as Taste. Concepts that followed included Crush, Demi, Spike Gjerde’s Shoo-Fly, and, most recently, Starlite Diner. Now, the space is straying from its previous life as a cocktail bar and diner with an entirely new on-trend theme. Koba BBQ, a locally owned Korean barbecue concept is slated to open in the space by the end of this year. The spot adds to the development’s diverse lineup of food offerings, which include Ejji Ramen, Atwater’s, Grand Cru, and Neopol Smokery.

Brazil Gourmet Marketplace, Cafe, and Coffee Bar: Baltimore’s Brazilian food offerings will expand in the coming weeks with the arrival of this multi-use concept on Eastern Avenue. The Fells Point shop will be home to a market featuring authentic Brazilian grocery items like coffee, yucca and tapioca flours, smoked and dried meats, and mango and guava fruit juices. After stocking up on the comestibles, patrons are invited to stay for a meal in the cafe, which will highlight delicacies like classic empanadas, açai bowls, cachaça-infused caipirinha cocktails, and Pão de Queijo (Brazilian cheese bread).

EPICUREAN EVENTS

TO 8/11: Baltimore Restaurant Week
The city’s annual dining-out promotion is officially in full swing with an array of participating places to choose from. Treat yourself to two-course lunch and brunch menus ranging from $12-20, or a three-course dinner for $20-35. Newbies including Blackwall Hitch, Noona’s, The Tilted Row, and Orto are all participating for the first time this year if you’re hoping to try something new. But it’s also a great opportunity to revisit old standbys like Tio Pepe’s or Annabel Lee Tavern. (You can find our globally inspired suggestions here.)

8/3: Vegan SoulFest

This plant-based party returns to Clifton Park for its sixth year with a jam-packed lineup of speakers, cooking demonstrations, live DJ entertainment, shopping, and, of course, plenty of vegan eats to go around. Local vendors to look out for include L’Eau de Vie Organic Brasserie, The Greener Kitchen, Refocused, and The Land of Kush—whose co-owner Naijha Wright-Brown organizes the event each year.

SHUT

TigerStyle: Earlier this week, diners devoured the last of the steamed buns and stir-frys at Chad Gauss’ wok-inspired outpost in Hampden. The chef and Food Market owner recently confirmed to us that the restaurant has closed for good. Gauss says the closing is not for lack of business. The space was simply sold to another buyer who expressed interest in taking over the former commissary kitchen. “It was a fun place and exactly what we wanted it to be,” he tells us. “We have a few bigger projects coming our way, and it just made sense to let this one go since we had someone that was interested in the location.” There’s no word yet on who, exactly, will be taking over the carryout—which Gauss opened only six months ago and named after the lyrics of a popular Wu Tang Clan song.

[Editor’s Note: Since publication, it was brought to our attention that people found some of the language used in this review offensive. Baltimore regrets the lack of attention paid to our words and we explored the issues surrounding authenticity and appropriation in Asian food culture on a recent episode of our podcast.]

There’s a lot happening inside TigerStyle, the small Asian comfort food joint from the mind of Chad Gauss, chef and co-owner of the renowned Hampden restaurant The Food Market. Flames sporadically shoot toward the ceiling in the open kitchen as cooks flip sizzling vegetables in woks. Hip-hop music blares. Toilet paper, toothpaste, and candy line a shelf near the entrance, available for sale as a convenience to customers, while also adding a surprisingly artistic element.

Gauss and his partners—The Food Market’s executive chef Nick Pasco, former Food Market general manager Patrick Rainey, and La Food Marketa’s executive chef Johntay Bedingfield—had modest goals when they opened in an alley behind West 36th Street, a fortune cookie’s throw from the flagship restaurant. “We just want to have fun, please people, and not take it too seriously,” he told Baltimore before it opened in February.

He has succeeded. True to its name, TigerStyle oozes flair. Posters of artists such as Wu Tang Clan, whose song inspired the name, and classic movies like Back to the Future and Goodfellas line the walls of the tiny eating space, which has just one communal metal table with stools. Although many of the appetizers may look familiar to Americanized Chinese-food devotees, TigerStyle’s takes are unique.

The pork in its egg roll is ground with mushroom and cabbage. One is filling enough to constitute a mini meal on its own. Wonton soup bears no resemblance to the overly salty swill that’s far too common; its broth is clean and enhanced by plentiful spinach, mushrooms, and shrimp.

In contrast to the vegetable gyoza, shrimp toast, and Korean fried chicken wings, all of which we felt the kitchen fried the flavor right out of, the tempura cauliflower was subtly prepared with cashews, Thai basil, and honey. It elevated from very good to great when we dunked the large pieces in the accompanying curry turmeric dip. Most apps come with plastic tubs of house-made sauces that are varyingly tangy, creamy, spicy, and sweet, and make everything—much of which would be just fine on its own—even better.

Entrees are more free-form. Diners choose a base of white or brown rice, spinach, quinoa, or cauliflower rice, a protein, and a sauce, which includes vegetables. We went with shrimp and lobster sauce, which, according to the menu, is “actually really good chicken stock” with sherry, ginger, garlic, egg, soy, snow peas, and carrots. It lived up to its billing.

Three noodle dishes also are available. The street variety, prepared with crushed garlic, dried chiles, peanuts, scallion, ginger, and sambal, stood out. They were deliciously greasy and seriously spicy.

Every bag of carryout or delivery, which are the eatery’s focus, is stapled and slapped with a TigerStyle seal of approval sticker. We’ll attach one to the end of this review, too.

›› TIGERSTYLE 911-913 W. 36th St., 443-708-1037. Open 4-10 p.m. daily.

COMING SOON

Quality Snowballs: The Food Market chef/owner Chad Gauss is bringing the city’s token treats to the Avenue in Hampden just in time for snowball season. Expected to debut on May 1, the 10-foot shipping container muraled by local artist Paige Orpin sits in the small parking lot on the side of the church building at 1014 West 36th Street—which is just across the street from The Food Market. “It’s nice to be able to control what’s going on from directly across the street,” Gauss says. In keeping with his playful style, the stand will offer the classic egg custard with marshmallow, while also featuring fun flavors with unique toppings.

Look out for banana-Oreo, strawberry shortcake, dirt-cup, coconut cream pie, crème brûlée, and even s’mores flavored ice with torched marshmallow on top. The team also has ideas to create açaí snowballs and incorporate fresh herbs and fruits “so that it’s not just the sugary syrup juice and that’s it,” Gauss adds. On the heels of opening DIY stir fry spot TigerStyle behind the Avenue, the chef says he’s looking forward to introducing another concept in the neighborhood. “It’s kind of like our playground,” he says. “We’re just looking to have fun and to find more ways to enjoy what we do.” 1014 W. 36th St.

Blackwall Hitch: After much anticipation, this Annapolis favorite—which also operates locations in Alexandria, Virginia and Rehoboth Beach, Delaware—is finally bringing its massive menu of fine-dining fare to the Inner Harbor next month. Opening on the first floor of the Candler building on East Pratt street, the 10,000-square-foot restaurant will feature worldly dishes by executive chef David Montanz. The menu is expected to mirror the restaurant’s other locations, which highlight staples like filet mignon, shrimp and grits, scallops with saffron risotto, pulled short rib carbonara, and classic jumbo lump crab cakes with roasted corn salsa. 700 E. Pratt St.

The Tilted Row: Cafe Fili loyalists will be happy to hear that owner Ziad Maalouf, along with his partners Jim Campbell and Nancy Hooff, are opening a sister-spot in Bolton Hill the week of May 20. Located on the bottom floor of the brand new Jordan apartment building, the neighborhood spot will have an inviting feel with warm woods and soft colors. Chef Andrew Thomas, previously of Donna’s and The Elephant, will oversee kitchen operations, while the bar program will be headed up by former Woodberry Kitchen bartender Hannah Baker. The team will source ingredients from local farms and its own herb garden, and craft global dishes like cedar salmon tagine, pretzel pork schnitzel, lamb ragu pappardelle, and buttermilk biscuits with bourbon-chili glaze. To pair with the elevated pub fare, Baker will feature creative cocktails, 10 beers on tap, a boutique wine list, and an impressive collection of more than 120 single malts and bourbons. 305 McMechen St.

NEWS

Atlas Expands to Cross Street Market: This week, the team behind Harbor East behemoth Atlas Restaurant Group announced plans to expand their reach across the harbor next year. Amid rumors of a deal to open a concept inside the renovated Cross Street Market in Federal Hill, Atlas released a statement confirming that the group is currently in lease negotiations to debut an anchor crab house and seafood market inside the space. “The concepts will be two new brands and interior designs that will be unique to the city,” the statement reads. “We look forward to being a part of the Federal Hill community.” If all goes well with leasing, both are expected to debut in April of 2020.

In the meantime, three of the veteran vendors at Cross Street will be the first to reopen inside the new space next month. Market regulars will be able to get reacquainted with Henry Reisinger of Fenwick’s Choice Meats, John Nichols of Steve’s Lunch, and Pete Pittas of The Sweet Shoppe. A roster of nine newbies—including SoBeachy, Phubs, and Rice Crook— are expected to follow suit this spring, and additional pizza, wine bar, vegan, fried chicken, and grocery concepts will be announced in the coming weeks. 1065 S. Charles St.

Petit Louis Bistro Launches Fundraiser for Notre Dame Cathedral: In true Baltimore spirit, this beloved French bistro in Roland Park is lending a hand in the wake of the tragic fire that tore through the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris earlier this week. For two weeks starting on Monday, April 22, the restaurant will be offering a special $59 lunch and dinner menu that will benefit reconstruction efforts. A portion of all proceeds from every multi-course meal served will be donated to Friends of Notre-Dame de Paris, which is dedicated to rebuilding the landmark. All guests who visit the bistro will also have the option to donate additional funds. 4800 Roland Ave. 410-366-9393

OUTDOOR OPENINGS

LB Skybar: It’s been a big week for the historic Lord Baltimore Hotel downtown. On the heels of welcoming new executive chef Beth Dinice, the property is preparing to open its 19th-floor Skybar for the season on Friday, April 26. This year, guests can expect new furniture, additional areas for private events, and a revamped menu of shareable plates. Take in the killer views while sipping cocktails and snacking on Old Bay chips with onion dip, pit beef bao buns, or shrimp kebabs with cilantro aioli. Additionally, the hotel’s new partnership with Mera Kitchen Collective will bring a special takeover menu to the bar every Wednesday evening. 20 W. Baltimore St. 410-539-8400

Noona’s: Speaking of al fresco fare, this Midtown pizza spot recently unveiled its new 12-seat patio overlooking MICA’s Mount Royal Station. Simultaneously, chef Cai Lindeman launched weekend brunch service. Snag a seat outside on a sunny Saturday or Sunday to enjoy Italian-inspired dishes including ricotta pancakes, pancetta omelets, maple-glazed bacon, and crispy confit potatoes. To wash down all of the mid-morning eats, Noona’s also offers $5 prosecco on tap, $6 mimosas, and $6 micheladas made with Old Oriole Park Boh from Peabody Heights. 1203 W. Mt. Royal Ave. 410-424-0857

EPICUREAN EVENTS

4/19: Beach Party at Peko Peko Ramen
In celebration of its newly acquired liquor license, the team at this Charles Village ramen shop is throwing an all-day beach bash with plenty of themed cocktails to go around. Stop by for an early summer kickoff featuring free merch and giveaways like complimentary ramen bowls and buckets of beer. 7 E. 33rd St. 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m.

TO 4/21: Maryland Food Truck Week
There’s still time to support your favorite kitchens-on-wheels during this annual event, which closes out on Sunday, April 21. Throughout the week, local food trucks have been hosting festivities all over town to benefit Meals on Wheels, and there are still rallies planned everywhere from Elkridge to Bowleys Quarters this Friday. Aside from the official events, it’s also a great time to track down your favorite trucks. Among the many mobile kitchens participating include 410 Empanadas, Goganics, Crossroads Bistro, Kuya’s Kitchen, Shareef’s Grill, Miss Twist Ice Cream, and Dizzy Cow Pizzeria.

SHUT

Mustang Alley’s: Throughout its 12-year run, this hybrid bar-and-bowling alley has been home to many fun-filled nights spent sipping local beers while chowing down on classic bowling snacks. Unfortunately, next month will be the last for the staple destination near Little Italy. Co-owner Mary Koch recently told the Baltimore Business Journal that, while business is good, Mustang Alley’s came to the end of its lease term and was unable to negotiate a new one, so it will be closing in June. Here’s hoping new owners come in to revive the bowling alley, but, in the meantime, stop by to bowl one last game while enjoying pub grub like Old Bay wings, cheeseburger sliders, and cheesy pizzas. 1300 Bank St. 410-522-2695

COMING SOON

Orto Baltimore: After Bottega owner Adrien Aeschliman recently moved out of state, former Food Market partner Elan Kotz stepped in to take over the Station North restaurant earlier this month. In a quick turnaround, Kotz has transformed the space into Orto—an Italian concept whose name translates to “vegetable garden.” The team also includes executive chef Stefano Porcile and pastry chef Jaime Hacker, who both worked in the space when it previously housed Aeschliman’s French concept Colette. “We were really fortunate to take on a couple of people who love the space and have a passion for it,” Kotz says. “It’s great that they’re able to bring that same energy.”

Orto officially opens this Saturday (it will be closed on Super Bowl Sunday) and will offer dinner service daily. Consisting of everything from small snacks to larger entrees, the locally sourced menu will feature house-marinated olives with fennel, a bibb salad with hazelnuts and radish, sweet onion and burrata flatbread, winter root vegetable polenta, and a whole grilled branzino with charred broccoli and mint salad. Hacker will serve sweets like a blood orange tart and tiramisu creme brûlée.

The Italian slant is also reflected in the interior renovation, which yields classic marmorino plaster treatment, large mirrors, marble accents throughout, and a new bar that has been lowered from standing height. Overall, Kotz is looking forward to being a part of the neighborhood, offering dining options for theater- and cinema-goers and commuters traveling to and from Penn Station. “I’ve always loved this neighborhood,” he says. “I want to make it a place where you can come in for a glass of wine on a Monday and then come back over the weekend on a date or with family.” 1709 N. Charles St.

TigerStyle: Next week, chef/owner Chad Gauss of The Food Market in Hampden is launching yet another spinoff project. In addition to the Mexican-influenced La Food Marketa in Pikesville, Gauss now operates TigerStyle—a wok-influenced carryout located around the back alley behind Avenue Kitchen & Bar on West 36th Street. Named after the popular Wu Tang Clan song, the spot will offer Asian-inspired appetizers (think spring rolls and Korean fried chicken wings) as well as DIY stir-fry dishes with customizable bases ranging from quinoa and salad greens to cauliflower rice and classic lo mein noodles.

Though he’s excited to get creative with the Asian ingredients, Gauss says that the eatery will also feature more local flavors like Maryland corn and crab meat in the summertime. “We’re not trying to be the next Momofuku,” he says. “We just want to have fun, please people, and not take it too seriously.” Expected to open on February 9, the casual spot decorated with old-school, hip-hop posters will offer 16 seats, but mostly focus on delivery service using apps like GrubHub and UberEats.

The project is a partnership between Gauss, The Food Market’s executive chef Nick Pasco, former Food Market general manager Patrick Rainey, and La Food Marketa’s executive chef Johntay Bedingfield—who was recently crowned a Chopped champion on an episode of the Food Network show that aired earlier this week. “He started as a grill cook and worked his way up to being a Chopped winner,” Gauss says. “These guys have all been with me for a long time, and this is a great outlet for everyone to get a little creative.” 911-913 W. 36th St.

Rise Biscuits Doughnuts: Columbia diners will soon get a taste of this chain eatery that has had Towson locals raving since it opened in the 1620 York Road shopping center last year. Coming this March, the new spot will debut on McGaw Road across from the Wegmans in Columbia. Open until 2 p.m. daily, Rise offers its namesake biscuits filled with savory ingredients like country sausage, fried green tomatoes, and buttermilk fried chicken. To satisfy sweet tooth cravings, the shop also features apple fritters, cinnamon rolls, and its famous maple-bacon doughnuts. 8872 McGaw Rd., Columbia.

CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATIONS

The Corner Pantry: For the second year in a row, this Mt. Washington favorite is celebrating the Chinese New Year in style with a full-fledged Asian pop-up on February 5. Stop in to sample authentic dishes including duck spring rolls, kanpachi tartare, lemongrass pork sausage, miso black cod, and a “pig plate” with pork belly and barbecued char siu. Desserts will include Instagram-worthy bubble waffles and lychee-glazed doughnuts. The event overlaps with a big birthday for the restaurant, which turns 5 on February 14. 6080 Falls Rd. 667-308-2331

Ekiben x Clavel: Take a long lunch for this New Year’s pop-up at Ekiben from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. on February 5. Chef Steve Chu (more on him later) is teaming up with Carlos Raba of Clavel to serve up his signature Asian-fusion dishes for the occasion. Though the menu hasn’t been finalized, we can only imagine there will be plenty of pork plates on deck in celebration of the Year of the Pig. 1622 Eastern Ave. 410-558-1914

NEWS

Steve Chu Wins Guy’s Grocery Games: Speaking of Ekiben, co-owner/chef Chu is feeling the love this week after he took home $16,000 on a Super Bowl-themed episode of Guy’s Grocery Games that aired on Food Network Wednesday night. Chu raced around the aisles of Fieri’s makeshift grocery store and won over judges with his tailgate-inspired dishes including a tempura vegetable basket with nacho cheese vinaigrette. After winning, Chu even whipped out a business card for Fieri, which he displayed on-air. (Talk about great promotion for the city.)

EPICUREAN EVENTS

2/2-3: Groundhog Day Sale at Bin 604
Regardless of whether Punxsutawney Phil sees his shadow this Saturday, Bin 604 in Harbor East is making the official prediction that we’re all going to need six more weeks of wine. To help locals stock up, the shop is throwing a massive Groundhog Day cellar raid. Hundreds of wines around the store will be available for $1 over wholesale cost all weekend long. Plus, the tasting bar will offer samples of some of the best discounted bottles. The two-day sale runs from 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday. 604 S. Exeter St. 410-576-0444

SHUT

Ristorante Firenze: Reisterstown diners were saddened when the Leonardi family announced that their Main Street staple closed for good. “It has been our pleasure to serve the Reisterstown community for the last four years, and we are grateful for the support of our loyal customers,” the staff wrote in an announcement posted to its website. “Many thanks to our fantastic staff for their hard work and dedication.” In addition to its cozy bar with flickering fireplaces, the Italian spot in the former home of Tonino’s was best known for its Boot Country pizzas and pastas. 2 Hanover Rd. Reisterstown

Courtney’s Bagel Cafe & Deli: Breakfast runs in Owings Mills won’t be the same after the closing of this institution across from the Stevenson University campus. Owner Susan Leeming recently told The Jewish Times that, after running the business for 20 years, she decided not to renew the building’s lease in hopes of giving herself some downtime. But we haven’t seen the last of Leeming: “I might end up with a Courtney’s tuna truck, you never know!” she told the JT. “It’s in my blood. I don’t think I’m finished.” As for the shop, the lease has been turned over to the team behind Quarry Bagel & Cafe in Pikesville, and is expected to reopen under new management in March. 11000 Owings Mills Blvd., Owings Mills

Charm City is home to a colorful combination of cuisines, and this summer is the perfect time to expand your culinary palette. Baltimore Restaurant Week is back July 27-August 5, with more than 100 places bringing the best to your plate.

In its 13th year, the summer food frenzy is the longest running promotion in the region to offer delicious discounts. Participating restaurants will have special selections on fixed brunch, lunch, or dinner menus for the week, fueled by the collaborative support of the Downtown Partnership and Visit Baltimore.

For brunch and lunch, restaurants offer choices for two courses that range from a total of $12-20, and for dinner diners will have choices for three courses ranging from $20-$35. Reservations can be made online or through the mobile app Opentable, which is also partnering to sponsor the event.

New this year, nearby parking garages sponsored by LAZ Parking will have a $5 weeknight rate and a $10 all-day weekend rate, according to Jessie Krebs, Visit Baltimore’s public relations manager. While in years past the biggest obstacle might have been getting a parking spot downtown, Visit Baltimore wanted to make that easier.

“We realized that over time there has been perception that parking downtown can be a hassle for customers,” said Visit Baltimore president and CEO Al Hutchinson. “This year we wanted to show that that perception isn’t a reality. We’re hoping that that will be something special for this restaurant week.”

This summer, more than 100 restaurants are participating in Baltimore Restaurant Week, so we wanted to narrow it down to some of the highlights.

Unbeatable Brunch: Wicked Sisters
The brunch bites at this Hampden site are looking wicked good. We like french toast. We like muffins. We’re ready to try the French toast muffin. This first course menu option starts with a cinnamon sugar muffin, and is stacked with maple syrup bits, whipped cream, and Nutella powder. You just can’t make this stuff up. 3845 Falls Rd., $15-33, (410) 878-0884

Unrivaled Lunch: Tio Pepe
Stopping in for lunch at Restaurant Tio Pepe’s brings you straight to Spain. This year, the homemade Spanish cooking comes in several options for two midday courses at $15. Take time to try authentic dishes like gazpacho a la andaluza to start, and finish it off with tortilla Espanola Don Quijote or filete Tio Pepe. 10 E. Franklin St., $15-35, (410) 539-4675

Most Creative Menu: The Food Market
Does the idea of worms in dirt make you salivate? If your first thought is dark chocolate pudding with oreo crumbs, then you have the right instinct about dirt cups. The Food Market is making Restaurant Week extra fun with funky desserts and dishes like loaded nachos, duck confit potato skins, lobster-salted fries, and more. 1017 W. 36th St, $35, (410) 366-0606

Vegetarian-Friendly Place: Encantada
Last summer, this enchanting New American menu was our favorite sustainable option of Charm City’s restaurant week. And this year, not much has changed as Encantada still brings us back to basics of fresh eating, from vegan to vegetarian to virtually any diet. Through brunch, lunch, and dinner, the menus are almost entirely meatless, including choices like tofu tacos and cauliflower steak. Take your time atop the American Visionary Art Museum, and enjoy $15 bottomless mimosas, Bloody Marys, Evolution Craft Brewing drafts & sangria at brunch and lunch. 800 Key Highway, $20-35, (410) 752-1000

The Newcomer: Chez Hugo Bistro
The latest French bistro has had our hearts since its opening this past Valentine’s Day. Its spacious dining room is best for big parties and its semi-casual ambience is ideal for families, friends, and food. For restaurant week features, you’ll find French classics like soup à l’oignon, Croque Monsieur, and steak frites for lunch or dinner. 206 E. Redwood St, $20-35, (443) 438-3002

Outdoor Option: Cafe Fili
Fill up at Cafe Fili with mediterranean mezze meals that will make you want to come back for more. From paninis, hot dips, cold dips, and a baklava selection, the adventurous eats are ideal when paired with fresh air while dining al fresco out front. The cute corner cafe is modest and quaint, making for a casual outing in Mt. Vernon. Another bonus: its lunch and dinner menus have many vegetarian options. 816 Cathedral St., $12-20, (410) 244-1600

Sweet Spot: Kora Lee’s
Even the most savory items are prepared with a sweet spin at this gourmet dessert cafe, which is perfect for our indulging our inner sweet tooth. For a $15 lunch, options include ricotta heirloom tomato tart, blueberry feta salad and pineapple Thai chicken. But bring your appetite for brunch if you want a really tasty treat, like the Nutty Buddy banana pudding French toast. Yum. 602 N. Howard Street, $15, (443) 602-0167

Neighborhood Spot: Annabel Lee Tavern
While restaurant week is the best time to try something new, it’s also great to get deals at your local favorites. And Annabel Lee is a classic we can’t get enough of. The traditional American tavern is offering a $28 three-course dinner. Start with Old Bay gazpacho, an ode to Maryland heritage, and find other fan favorites like the crab cake platter or petit filet mignon. 601 S Clinton St., $28, 410-522-2929

Biggest Bargain: The Black Olive
The authentic Greek fish tavern in Fells Point offers an array of elegance and fine dining. Their menu is still in the works, but you’ll feel especially fancy with their upscale seafood options, for no more than $35 at dinner. 814 S. Bond St., Price TBD, (410) 276-7141

Best Beverages: Petit Louis
Last but not least, Petit Louis completes our week with French food and fabulous wine—oh la la! Imagine you’re sharing a tartelette aux peches or mousse au chocolat blanc. You’ll need a perfect wine to complement your dessert, and Petit Louis’ selection of pairings is set at $19. 4800 Roland Avenue, $35, (410) 366-9393

When faced with a menu of savory snacks, soft pretzels are tough to pass up. Whether you’re hanging out at your neighborhood bar or strolling around an outdoor festival, you can’t go wrong ordering a fresh-baked twist—with its warm inside and crisp exterior enhanced by a requisite pinch of salt. (Just thinking about it makes us channel our inner Stanley Hudson from The Office.) Locally, there are plenty of places to get your fix in honor of National Pretzel Day on April 26.

Some of the most beloved soft pretzels in the city can be found at The Food Market, Chad Gauss’s comfort food spot on the Avenue in Hampden. Gauss says that the restaurant’s signature sticks—which were inspired by visits to Pennsylvania’s Amish markets with his grandparents as a kid—have been a hit since day one. In celebration of Pretzel Day, he will be offering free orders to all tables during dinner service. 

“That first day we tried to cook them from raw dough to order and it was literally impossible,” he says. “They’re just so easy-going. It’s something that you can order to really excite your palate for dinner.”

In crafting the dish, Gauss says he opted for the pull-apart, breadstick-style pretzels (rather than a traditional twist) to promote sharing and expose an optimal amount of crust. Each order is served alongside an overflowing cup of Natty Boh beer-cheese fondue.

“I had to use the Boh,” Gauss says with a laugh. “Pretzels and cheese and pretzels and mustard are the two real ways to go, but with mustard you aren’t really making anything. Beer, pretzels, and cheese all incorporate so well together. I thought, ‘I can make a cheese fondue as good as anybody.’”

From traditional twists and braids to unique nuggets and knots, here are a few other top spots to partake in National Pretzel Day.

Alexander’s Tavern: The soft pretzels at this Fells Point mainstay shine on a lengthy menu that highlights all kinds of pub grub. The butter-basted braids are jumbo-sized, and plated with three different dipping sauces. Pick your preference of white queso, honey-maple Dijon, or tavern mustard while catching a game or kick-starting a meal with friends. 710 S. Broadway, 410-522-0000

Brew House No. 16: Pair a flight of house-brewed beer with the pretzel bread and butter at this buzzed-about Mt. Vernon restaurant—which is housed inside a historic 19th-century fire station. 831 N. Calvert St., 410-659-4084

Crossbar der Biergarten: Federal Hill welcomed this spot—a project which took more than four years to get off of the ground—with open arms when it finally debuted on East Cross Street last year. The German beer hall is meant to harken back to the roots of Oktoberfest, with interior touches like steel doors, a living ficus tree, and communal wooden furniture imported from Munich. The German vibe is also reflected in the menu, which showcases sausages, schnitzel fingers, and, of course, giant Bavarian pretzels. Make the most of the experience by picking apart the twists while downing a boot of Warsteiner of Hefenweizen. 18 E. Cross St., 410-528-1186

Das Bier Haus: On the other side of Federal Hill, this corner hangout takes its pretzel game seriously—especially when it comes to the accouterments. Diners are encouraged to customize their giant or king-sized pretzels by choosing any of the spot’s signature dipping sauces. The lengthy list features more than 20 condiments ranging from basic ranch and whole-grain Dijon to lemon-caper aioli, whiskey cream, honey-cardamom butter, and jalapeño nacho cheese. In honor of National Pretzel Day, the eatery is hosting its third-annual Pretzel Pairings Dinner featuring an array of different soft pretzels (think crab, pizza, and Buffalo-chicken flavors) alongside Devil’s Backbone Brewing Company beers. 1542 Light St., 443-708-8854 

Pen & Quill: This Mt. Vernon favorite is an ideal pick for any occasion, and chef Bella Kline’s snack menu certainly comes in handy if you’re searching for a place to post up for drinks and light bites. Aside from deviled eggs, house-marinated olives, and French fries smothered in mushroom gravy, the list highlights a house soft pretzel with a hearty helping of porter cheddar sauce. Be sure to pair the specialty with one of the many local beers on tap. 1701 N. Charles St., 410-601-3588

Philly Pretzel Factory: As its name signifies, this Pennsylvania-based chain that recently landed in the Inner Harbor’s Light Street pavilion peddles authentic Philadelphia-style soft pretzels in an array of different shapes and sizes. For adventurous diners, the shop also offers items including pretzel-wrapped hot dogs, cheesesteak pretzels, and cinnamon-sugar coated twists. 301 Light St., 410-230-0063

World of Beer: Both locations of this fan-favorite beer bar in Towson and Locust Point will be celebrating the food holiday accordingly by offering the German-style snack—which is served hanging from a hook with house-made stone ground mustard or beer cheese. The bar even recommends pairing the twisted treat with one of its pale lagers. Multiple locations including 1724 Whetstone Way, 410-752-2337

Howell will be joined by fellow No Kid Hungry champions Chad Gauss of The Food Market, Bryan Voltaggio of Aggio, and Zack Mills of Wit & Wisdom, as well as Ben Lefenfeld of La Cuchara and Aja Cage, pastry chef at Gunther & Co., for the collaborative event.

The evening will begin with a cocktail reception and live auction at 6 p.m., followed by a seated meal with six courses, each prepared by a different chef. While the full menu won’t be revealed until the night of the fundraiser, diners can count on a pheasant squash tart with birds sourced from Keiser’s Phesantry in Southern Pennsylvania from Howell, and a decadent dessert fusing pears, chocolate, and a shot of homemade root beer from Cage.

Chad Gauss, chef and owner of The Food Market.

Though she is no stranger to food fundraisers (her previous stints include heading up the pastry teams at Fleet Street Kitchen and Salt), this will be Cage’s first time participating in an event for No Kid Hungry.

“When I was growing up, my mom was always very adamant that we share dinner together,” she says. “It’s so important in terms of building a better bond with your family and developing good eating habits early on. There’s a trickle effect with the whole thing. If you eat better in school, you become a more wholesome adult.”

Although each dish will be executed individually, Cage says that the chefs have been in close contact over the past few weeks to ensure that all of the courses will fit together nicely. Like Howell, she notes the opportunity to work collaboratively with the other chefs as a highlight.

“It’s going to be a lot of fun to just be out of my element for a few hours,” she says. “And to be able to see what the other chefs are working on and talk to them about it. At the end of the day that’s what makes you feel good—seeing how one cause can bring a group of people together.”

Tickets for The Food Market event have since sold out, but guests can still make donations to No Kid Hungry, and the organization is planning more Baltimore events in the future.

“Obviously the food scene in Baltimore is growing, but it’s still a small scene,” Howell says. “So getting together, bouncing ideas off of each other, and helping each other out is only going to make the food scene stronger.”

Kathy Wielech Patterson’s Baltimore Chef’s Table celebrates Charm City’s restaurant revolution, from farm-to-fork fare at Fleet Street Kitchen to seasonally inspired cuisine at Liv2Eat and old standbys such as Pierpoint Restaurant (see recipes below). 

For Patterson, there were few food choices when she was growing up. “I lived around the corner from Broadway Market,” the Fells Point native explains, “but other than that, it was a lot of noisy bars.” 

The author’s culinary education came at the age of 13. “I loved to read Gourmet magazine,” recalls Patterson, who co-authored the book with her husband, Neal. “We always had it in our home. If I couldn’t experience it, I wanted to read about it.”

When did Baltimore become a food town?
About eight years ago, there was this explosion of these modern American-style restaurants using fresh ingredients and putting a twist on classic dishes. I was like, ‘Wow, who would have thought Baltimore is a food town?’

Where did your interest in food come from?
I’ve always loved eating. We had a French-club party in my high school and everyone brought something. I made riz à l’impératrice, a complicated rice pudding that I poured into my mother’s elaborate copper mold. We put it in the high-school cafeteria refrigerator, and when the day was over, I unmolded it. Everyone was impressed.

Is there one person, in particular, who helped get the scene started?
Cindy Wolf started it all when she opened Savannah in Fells Point. It was luxurious, yet more modern than what we were used to. Then she moved to Charleston in Harbor East and that exploded. Suddenly, there were high-end restaurants in neighborhoods where you would never have found them before.

Do you have a favorite recipe in the book?
One of my favorites is the hriby dip from Ze Mean Bean Café. Whenever we go, we fight over who gets the last scrap out of the bowl—it’s pretty delicious stuff. I’ve also made Gypsy Queen’s chipotle aioli numerous times—it tastes great on everything.

What do you want readers to get out of this book?
I want them to learn about the Baltimore restaurant scene. Even if you’re not interested in cookbooks or making the recipes, you can read about the history of the restaurants and the chefs. There’s a lot going on here food-wise.

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Slow Cooked Calamari “Birroteca Style”

(Serves 4)

“Slow-cooking the calamari in oil makes them exquisitely tender.”

• 1 1/2 pounds calamari, cleaned and cut into 2-inch rings
• 3 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1 1/2 cups olive oil blend
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 lemon, quartered
• 2 tablespoons drained capers
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

Directions:
Preheat oven to 275°F. Place the calamari, garlic, oil blend, and salt in an ovenproof casserole. Mix well. Cover with aluminum foil and braise for 21⁄2 hours, or until the calamari are tender and soft. Remove from oven and let cool. When cool, drain off oil. Calamari can be refrigerated at this point or used immediately. When ready to serve, heat a 14-inch sauté pan over medium heat and add the extra virgin olive oil. Add the garlic and lemon and toast them in the oil. The garlic will turn light brown and start to smell nutty. Place the calamari in the pan and cook until lightly golden brown. Add the capers and parsley and, if desired, salt to taste and olive oil. Serve immediately.

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The Food Market’s Fried Chicken

(Serves 4 if using bone-in chicken, 10 if using boneless)

“Serve this crunchy chicken with gravy, hot sauce, or mornay sauce (a white sauce with cheese). This is great for chicken and waffles, with biscuits, poached eggs, or mashed potatoes and stewed green beans! I like it with hot sauce and watermelon!”

For the brine:

• 1 quart water
• 1/4 cup salt
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon ground black pepper
• 5 cloves garlic
• 3 sprigs thyme
• 4 ounces dark brown sugar
• 32 ounces National Bohemian beer
• 4 pounds chicken (boneless breasts or 
• a combination of bone-in pieces)
• For the seasoned flour:
• 3 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 1/4 ounces cornstarch
• 1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 3/4 teaspoon white pepper

For assembly:

• Oil for frying
• 1 quart buttermilk

Directions:
To make the brine: Place the water, salt, bay leaves, pepper, garlic, and thyme in a large pot with a lid. Bring the mixture to a boil, then remove the pot from the heat. Stir in the sugar and the beer. Allow to cool completely. Place the chicken pieces in the brine and refrigerate for 24 hours, or at least overnight.

To make the seasoned flour: Combine all dry ingredients in a large bowl. Whisk well so there are no lumps. Transfer half of the seasoned flour to a separate large bowl.

To fry the chicken: Add oil to your deep fryer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Or add about 3 inches of oil to a deep, heavy pan with straight sides (oil should not come up more than halfway). Preheat the oil to 300°F. Remove the chicken from the brine and pat dry. Dredge a few pieces of chicken at a time in the seasoned flour. Dip them next in the buttermilk, then in the second bowl of seasoned flour. Make sure the chicken pieces are completely coated. Fry the chicken a few pieces at a time for about 12 minutes, or until the chicken floats. Do not crowd the pan, or the oil will cool down and the chicken will be greasy. Remove the cooked chicken to paper-towel-lined plates to drain.

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My Thai’s Chicken Lettuce Wraps

(Serves 2)

Despite their deceptively small size, Thai chiles are very hot. Use fewer if you prefer a milder dish.

• 6 ounces ground chicken
• 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
• 2 whole, fresh Thai chiles
• 1 small bunch cilantro
• 2 ounces minced garlic
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 2 tablespoons fish sauce
• 1 tablespoon lime juice
• 1 ounce diced carrot
• 1 ounce diced red onion
• 1 ounce diced red and/or green bell pepper
• 1 head iceberg lettuce

Directions:
Cook the ground chicken in the oil, breaking up the meat into small pieces with a wooden spoon, until cooked through and no longer pink. Remove the chicken to a bowl. Combine the chiles, cilantro, garlic, sugar, fish sauce, and lime juice in a blender and puree. When the chicken has cooled, add the carrot, onion, and bell pepper. Pour the sauce over and mix well to coat the chicken and vegetables. Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl. Cut the lettuce into quarters. Arrange on a serving plate with the bowl of chicken. Present so the diners can tear off leaves of lettuce, place a spoonful of the chicken mixture in the center of each, and fold the lettuce around it.

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Pierpoint’s Maryland Crab Cakes

(Serves 4)

Chef Nancy Longo makes her famous crab cakes two ways: traditionally, with simply steamed crabmeat, or not-so-traditionally, with lightly smoked crab. The method for smoking the crab follows the recipe. We like them either way.

• 1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat
• 1 pound sweet crab claw meat
• 20 butter-style crackers, crushed into crumbs
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 2 teaspoons parsley
• 1 cup mayonnaise
• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 2 eggs
• 1 tablespoon Old Bay seasoning
• 1 tablespoon salted butter, melted

Directions:
To make the crab cakes: Pick through the crabmeat for bits of shell, being careful not to break up the lumps. Set aside. Combine all of the remaining ingredients in the order listed and mix thoroughly. Add the crabmeat and gently fold in so as not to break the lumps. Form into eight approximately 4-ounce cakes. The crab cakes can be cooked either of two ways: Broil in a heated broiler in a shallow baking dish with a small amount of water for about 10 minutes, being careful not to burn them, or sauté in vegetable oil until golden brown on all sides.

To smoke the crabmeat: Soak a few fruitwood chips in a bowl of water for approximately 1 hour. While the chips are soaking, prepare a bed of hot gray coals in a charcoal grill that has a lid. Place a small stainless steel bowl of water in the coals in the center of the grill. Remove the wet wood chips from the water and gently drop them on top of the hot coals, which will cause them to smoke. Wrap the grill grate with a sheet of aluminum foil. Poke a few small holes in the foil, put the crabmeat on top, and set the grate in place on the grill. Cover the grill and allow the crab to smoke for approximately 30 minutes. Remove the crabmeat from the grill and allow to cool for 1 hour. Use in the crab cake recipe in the same manner as for plain crabmeat.

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McFaul’s IronHorse Tavern’s Lobster Mac & Cheese

(Serves 2–3)

• 1/3 cup lobster stock
• 1 1/8 cups heavy cream
• 4 ounces fresh Maine lobster, diced
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 1 1/2 cups grated cheddar jack cheese
• 1/2 cup grated gruyère cheese
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 cups cooked pasta shells
• 1/2 cup seasoned bread crumbs

Directions: 
Preheat oven to 350°F. Pour the lobster stock into a saucepan. Reduce to one-quarter of its original volume over medium heat. Add the heavy cream and reduce more. Add the cheeses and stir. Add the lobster pieces and salt and pepper to taste. Combine the cooked pasta with the cheese-lobster sauce in an oven-safe dish. Top with bread crumbs and bake until golden brown, approximately 5-8 minutes.