OPEN

Bon Fresco: This homegrown coffee-and-carb chain—which has shops scattered everywhere from Columbia to Beltsville—opened its first Baltimore location in the Inner Harbor last week. Dooby’s owner Phil Han, whose father-in-law founded the chain in 2008, is spearheading the new shop between Pratt and Lombard streets. His team will follow Bon Fresco’s recipes, highlighting stuffed sandwiches on house-baked ciabatta rolls. (Standouts include the Tuscan Chicken with grilled veggies and famous London Broil topped with red onions and dijonaise.) In addition, the cafe offers breakfast sandwiches, salads, soups, DIY grain bowls, house pastries, and tons of coffee drinks.

Bentley’s Restaurant, Bar, and Lounge: Adding to Charm City’s recent jazz renaissance is this new restaurant and live music venue in Mt. Vernon. On the heels of Keystone Korner’s debut in Harbor East, Bentley’s is now officially open on Antique Row—offering a comfort food menu and weekly jazz, soul, and R&B performances. Diners can tap their feet along to the live soundtrack while enjoying dishes such as beef brisket in a red-wine demi glace, filet mignon topped with crabmeat, and crispy skin salmon with sweet potato mash. Bar snacks include Old Bay wings, peach-glazed shrimp, and Baja fish tacos.

DAYTIME DINING:

Noona’s: Speaking of Han, his pizza spot in Bolton Hill is now open for lunch. As MICA students and faculty return to the neighborhood for the fall semester, the restaurant is now open at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Friday. To accommodate those with limited lunch breaks, Noona’s will feature pub-style service during the day (diners pay at the bar and have their food brought to them) with featured dishes including the house burger, a tomato and mozzarella sandwich, and a farro grain bowl with soft boiled egg and late-summer herbs and veggies.

Topside: Hotel Revival’s rooftop restaurant is also launching daytime service this fall. Beginning Thursday, September 19, Topside will open from 7-10:30 a.m. for breakfast and then reopen from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for lunch. Executive chef Scott Hines’ breakfast menu will include egg white frittatas and grilled French toast with chantilly cream, while the lunch lineup will feature classic Maryland crab soup and an ancient grains salad with pickled fennel. The first day of the new service just so happens to coincide with Moveable Feast’s Dining Out for Life fundraiser, which donates 25 percent of proceeds from participating restaurants to feeding locals in need.

COMING SOON

Roll Ice Cream & Coffee: Great news for sweet tooth fiends in Mt. Vernon. Highlandtown staple Roll Ice Cream & Coffee is bringing its customizable confections to the neighborhood with a new stall at Mount Vernon Marketplace. Opening on Saturday, August 31, the spot will offer its made-to-order treats that freeze a liquid ice cream base on a subzero plate before mixing in toppings and rolling it up in a cup or waffle taco. Although add-ins can be mixed and matched, co-owners Jason Werner and Jessica Reyes also offer house creations like the popular “Couch Surfer”—which tops a chocolate base with potato chips and caramel popcorn. In keeping with the local feel, the owners also collaborate with area purveyors like Wight Tea Co. and Ceremony Coffee to create their matcha and coffee flavors. Stop by the grand opening from 2-6 p.m. this weekend to sample signature ice cream concoctions and coffee drinks offered exclusively for the grand opening.

Heritage Smokehouse: Industry insiders know George Marsh as the former head chef and butcher at Parts & Labor in Remington, where he specialized in whole-animal butchery and supplied cuts to sister restaurants (including Woodberry Kitchen) and customers in the retail shop up front. “A lot of people are uncomfortable if their meat doesn’t come in a little shrink-wrapped Styrofoam thing,” Marsh told us back in 2016. “I want people to connect with it, see it, get used to it, get comfortable with it. Everyone’s gotten so desensitized to what meat is and what it looks like.” Now, the chef is bringing those philosophies to a new spot of his own. Slated to open in the former home of Murphy’s Bar in Govans by the end of the year, the York Road restaurant will offer smoked meats, locally sourced sides, and a family-friendly setting with arcade games.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

8/30-9/1: Water Song Pop-Up at R. House
Head to R. House sometime during the long Labor Day weekend to get a taste of Yunnan, China by way of Remington. Water Song will be setting up shop in the food hall’s rotating pop-up stall to serve authentic Mixian rice noodles in a tasty broth with pickled mustard greens, a touch of meat, and lots of chili oil.

SHUT:

Minnow: Last weekend, brothers Ben and Jake Lefenfeld served their last orders of crab toast and crispy tofu at this nautical-themed restaurant in Riverside. Open since May 2017, the La Cuchara sister-spot became known for its fish dishes and weekend drag brunches. Although regulars are sad to see Minnow go, the owners aren’t going anywhere. They recently decided it was time for a change and are planning to reopen the restaurant as a new concept called The Hot Dry this weekend. Stay tuned for more details and an exclusive interview with the Lefenfeld brothers on our Local Flavor Live podcast.

COMING SOON

Tire Shop Pop-Ups at Parts & Labor: We’ve been keeping tabs on this former car-and tire-repair-shop-turned-Remington restaurant since Parts & Labor served its last cuts of meat in the space last summer. A new pop-up series is preparing to reactivate the space with public food events featuring local purveyors. The first of many such events is scheduled for August 10 from 12-5 p.m., when the barbecue buffs with Bark BBQ will serve up their Texas-style smoked meats with signature sides like pickled cucumbers and corn on the cob. Joining them for the inaugural celebration will be Locust Point’s Diamondback Brewing and R. House’s R. Bar. Hopefully we’ll see a more permanent revival soon, but, for now, it will be nice to see (and smell) meats being smoked in the space again.

Koba BBQ: It’s been quite some time since we’ve seen a restaurant operate inside the standalone building at Belvedere Square—which has become notorious for its turnaround rate throughout the years. North Baltimore locals might remember as far back as 2004, when it operated as Taste. Concepts that followed included Crush, Demi, Spike Gjerde’s Shoo-Fly, and, most recently, Starlite Diner. Now, the space is straying from its previous life as a cocktail bar and diner with an entirely new on-trend theme. Koba BBQ, a locally owned Korean barbecue concept is slated to open in the space by the end of this year. The spot adds to the development’s diverse lineup of food offerings, which include Ejji Ramen, Atwater’s, Grand Cru, and Neopol Smokery.

Brazil Gourmet Marketplace, Cafe, and Coffee Bar: Baltimore’s Brazilian food offerings will expand in the coming weeks with the arrival of this multi-use concept on Eastern Avenue. The Fells Point shop will be home to a market featuring authentic Brazilian grocery items like coffee, yucca and tapioca flours, smoked and dried meats, and mango and guava fruit juices. After stocking up on the comestibles, patrons are invited to stay for a meal in the cafe, which will highlight delicacies like classic empanadas, açai bowls, cachaça-infused caipirinha cocktails, and Pão de Queijo (Brazilian cheese bread).

EPICUREAN EVENTS

TO 8/11: Baltimore Restaurant Week
The city’s annual dining-out promotion is officially in full swing with an array of participating places to choose from. Treat yourself to two-course lunch and brunch menus ranging from $12-20, or a three-course dinner for $20-35. Newbies including Blackwall Hitch, Noona’s, The Tilted Row, and Orto are all participating for the first time this year if you’re hoping to try something new. But it’s also a great opportunity to revisit old standbys like Tio Pepe’s or Annabel Lee Tavern. (You can find our globally inspired suggestions here.)

8/3: Vegan SoulFest

This plant-based party returns to Clifton Park for its sixth year with a jam-packed lineup of speakers, cooking demonstrations, live DJ entertainment, shopping, and, of course, plenty of vegan eats to go around. Local vendors to look out for include L’Eau de Vie Organic Brasserie, The Greener Kitchen, Refocused, and The Land of Kush—whose co-owner Naijha Wright-Brown organizes the event each year.

SHUT

TigerStyle: Earlier this week, diners devoured the last of the steamed buns and stir-frys at Chad Gauss’ wok-inspired outpost in Hampden. The chef and Food Market owner recently confirmed to us that the restaurant has closed for good. Gauss says the closing is not for lack of business. The space was simply sold to another buyer who expressed interest in taking over the former commissary kitchen. “It was a fun place and exactly what we wanted it to be,” he tells us. “We have a few bigger projects coming our way, and it just made sense to let this one go since we had someone that was interested in the location.” There’s no word yet on who, exactly, will be taking over the carryout—which Gauss opened only six months ago and named after the lyrics of a popular Wu Tang Clan song.

We love any opportunity to sample a lot of little things at once—whether that’s tapas, dim sum, a well-crafted charcuterie board, or most recently, some of our favorite spirits. Of course, wine flights had their heyday several years back, but now there are all kinds of things that can be found in flight form, and we’re sure happy the trend is, well, taking off.

Many breweries in town have made their beer available in flights (Oliver, Monument City, and Jailbreak, to name a few), but if your aim is to try a bunch of different breweries under one roof, head to Parts & Labor (2600 N. Howard St.). Though the restaurant recently announced its closing, a pop-up bar will operate Wednesdays through Saturdays through the end of September. Featuring offerings from craft breweries around the region and country—such as Diamondback, Wardaca, and Sly Fox—the oft-rotating draft options are available in three mini snifter classes for $8-11.

There’s an even greater selection at The Brass Tap in Bolton Hill (1205 W. Mt. Royal Ave.), where four samples of their 62-draft selection are often scribbled on a chalkboard, so you can clearly remember your choices no matter how many you’ve had. Sit outside and sample your beers as you watch the Light Rail whiz by.

If you’re feeling more adventurous, look no further than Lane Harlan’s two Remington bars. W.C. Harlan (400 W. 23rd St.) offers flights of the Italian liqueur amaro ($12 for three pours). The liqueur is presented three ways on a beautiful silver serving tray. There’s even one house-made version concocted with local honey.

Just up the street is Harlan’s taqueria Clavel (225 W. 23rd St.), which recently expanded with a private six-seat bar providing special mezcal tastings. For $35 per person, sample four different varieties of the agave treat, while being expertly guided by bar manager Dre Barnhill. The bar offers small bites—nuts, crackers, and traditional orange slices—and a portion of the proceeds goes to the Tequila Interchange Project, an organization that advocates for the preservation of agave-distilled spirit practices.

If you truly can’t decide what kind of flight to try, head to West Madison Craft Beer & Wine Bar in Mt. Vernon (311 W. Madison St.), which offers practically everything in small sizes. There are flights for beer ($12 for 4-ounce drafts), whiskey ($15 for 1-ounce pours of rye, bourbon, and scotch), and wine ($15 for four selections of red and white). And the bar also boasts flight selections for both olives and pickles, which come in a medley of sweet, horseradish, garden, and spicy.

The bar’s vintage telephone booth and open windows overlooking the bustling sidewalk give it a European feel—appropriate for all the “flights” we’ve taken in our travels through Baltimore.

OPEN

Patterson Public House: Patterson Park locals may have noticed fresh signage at the corner spot that formerly housed BistroRx. Last week, new owners Tanya Gralto and Scott Lanphear reopened the space as Patterson Public House—a neighborhood tavern serving seasonal pub fare. Highlights on the summer menu include a cherry salad with whipped goat cheese, Cape May tilefish with chanterelle mushrooms, and a soon-to-be signature Public House burger topped with local tomato and Amish cheddar. Patterson Public also features an expansive list of house cocktails and local draft beers from the likes of Monument City and The Brewer’s Art. 2901 E. Baltimore St., 443-388-9887

COMING SOON

1817: Although the brand new Guinness Open Gate Brewery & Barrel House in Halethorpe will officially debut to the public on Friday, August 3, patrons are going to have to wait a bit longer for its third-floor restaurant to officially open for business. Named after the year that Guinness was first brewed, 1817 will offer a menu of Maryland classics alongside Irish staples. Expected to open next month, the beer bar will feature a Dublin-inspired pub feel and overlook the property’s pint-glass landscaped lawn. 5001 Washington Blvd., Halethorpe.

Poulet: Lutherville locals will be happy to hear that Poulet, the popular take-out spot off of Falls Road, will be opening a second location in the former Famous Dave’s space in Timonium this fall. Owner Jonathan Soudry recently told the Baltimore Business Journal that the new eatery will maintain its cafeteria-style service and offer nearly 200 seats. Diners can look forward to Poulet’s signature meats (think rotisserie chicken pulled pork), sides, and housemade ice cream, as well as beer, wine, and cocktail offerings. 2235 York Rd. Timonium.

True Chesapeake Oyster House: Earlier this week, partners Nick Schauman of The Local Oyster and Patrick Hudson of True Chesapeake Oyster Co. announced that they would be teaming up with chef Zack Mills to open a new restaurant at Whitehall Mill next year. Mills—who left his longtime post at Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons in June—says that the Chesapeake fare will continue his passion for regional cuisine. “We really want to showcase what Maryland is doing for us,” he says. “That’s something that has always been near and dear to my heart.” Slated to open in early 2019, the 100-seat restaurant will feature an Americana vibe with a full bar and 50-seat patio. 3300 Clipper Mill Rd.

NATIONAL OYSTER DAY SPECIALS

8/5: National Oyster Day at Mt. Washington Tavern
This Sunday, head to Mt. Washington Tavern for an afternoon event supporting the Oyster Recovery Partnership. For every oyster sold from 2-5 p.m., 10 spats (baby oysters) will be planted in the Chesapeake Bay. Enjoy the beloved bivalves raw, grilled, or shooter style while sipping discounted Heavy Seas and Manor Hill beers. 5700 Newbury St. 2-5 p.m., 410-367-6903

8/5: Oyster Day Patio Party at Gunther & Co.
Gunther & Co. in Brewers Hill is hosting another fundraiser for the Oyster Recovery Partnership this weekend. Soak up some sun on the patio while slurping oysters every which way—raw, roasted, and fried—and sipping beers from Oliver Brewing Co. There will also be live music spun by DJ Impulse, and guests will have a chance to mingle with visiting oystermen from Virginia’s Sapidus Farms. Admission is $45 with $5 of every ticket being donated to the Oyster Recovery Partnership. 3650 Toone St. 3-5 p.m. $45, 443-869-6874

TO 8/19: Urban Oyster Pop-Up at R. House
Swing by the rotating pop-up stall at R. House in Remington to visit Urban Oyster owner chef Jasmine Norton, who will be slinging her signature ‘sters. Whether you like them chargrilled, on the half shell, or bundled into a po’ boy, the ongoing pop-up provides plenty of ways to celebrate the foodie holiday in style. 301 W. 29th St.

SHUT

Parts & Labor: Since the news broke that Spike and Amy Gjerde’s meat-focused restaurant in Remington would be closing its doors on August 5, neighbors have been flocking to the spot for one last steak and a final beer around the fire pit out front. Gjerde, who calls the project “a deep dive into local meat,” says that there was a struggle to stay profitable due to the high costs of practicing whole-seam animal butchery. “We probably held on a lot longer than most people would have,” he told us earlier this week. “We realized we were having trouble paying the growers—and that’s not why we are here. We were in major arrears, but at this point it’s a break-even scenario.”

Although this weekend will be the last for locals to order from the regular menu, the Parts & Labor team will be operating a pop-up bar in the space for the next 60 days beginning on Wednesday, August 8. Open Wednesdays-Sundays from 4-10 p.m., the kitchen will feature daily culinary specials ranging from burgers and porchetta sandwiches to a fish fry and a whole pig roast. Of course, there will also be plenty of spirits and beers to go around. 2600 N. Howard St. 443-873-8887

Parts & Labor, Spike and Amy Gjerde’s meat-focused restaurant/butchery in Remington will sell its last locally sourced lamb chop this week.

The five-year-old restaurant will officially close after dinner service on August 5.

While the space opened to critical acclaim, the unique practice of purchasing whole animals from local farmers presented challenges in profitability. The staff learned of the news late last week.

While plans are still unfolding, there will be events and celebrations up to the last dinner service this Sunday.

“We might continue to keep the bar open a few days a week through the closing of the restaurant,” says managing partner Corey Polyoka.

As he weighs why the concept didn’t work, sitting in a booth at one of the restaurant’s final lunch shifts on a Saturday afternoon, Gjerde is in a deeply reflective mood.

The restaurant’s closing, “was a long time coming” Gjerde says. “Of course restaurants come and go and open and close and that’s part of life, but at its heart, Parts & Labor was a deep dive into the economics of local meat.”

While Woodberry Kitchen—which relies almost entirely on locally sourced ingredients—raised awareness of local sourcing and helped educate consumers, Parts & Labor presented new challenges and took the concept to another level.

It was the first restaurant in the state to practice whole animal seam butchery, attempting to use every part of the animal product in production.

“We took what we understood about local beef and lamb and goat and poultry and scaled it so that we could continue upon the work that we were doing at Woodberry,” explains Gjerde. “I knew that if we were going to do anything else in the city and serve meat, we needed to do it on our terms with thoughtful local producers.”

While Gjerde knew that there would be hurdles, the goal turned out to be a little too lofty, with many factors working against a local outfit. Food costs were higher and the public was exposed to cuts or types of meat—like coulotte steak (cut from the sirloin cap) or organ meats—that they might not otherwise know.

“Our collective understanding and expectation of what meat costs and how it gets to us has been formed by industrial meat production in this country,” says Gjerde. “That means that we have everything from dollar burgers at fast-food joints to beef and pork in supermarkets, and everything in between. When you take out the efficiencies of mass industrial processing operations and bring that back to the local level, you are at a tremendous disadvantage based on what people expect.”

Polyoka says that not pursuing USDA approval was also a factor that contributed to their demise. “We developed butcher’s cuts that were out of pure need to get as much value out of the whole carcass as possible,” he says. “[Because we lacked USDA approval], we could only sell meat in our own retail shop or to restaurants that we are connected with—we couldn’t push it into different channels.”

Gjerde cites statistics he has written in his phone, saying he is proud of the fact that value was returned to growers. “We put almost $4,000,000 back into the economy, and $2.5 million was beef, pork, lamb, goat, chicken, and duck—almost all of it from Maryland.”

As the restaurant changed menus and concepts in an effort to be more profitable, six or so months ago, Gjerde, Polyoka, and butcher George Marsh had to face the inevitable reality that it was likely time to close.

“We probably held on a lot longer than most people would have,” says Gjerde, who still owns six other spots, including A Rake’s Progress in D.C., as well as a successful canning operation. “We realized we were having trouble paying the growers—and that’s not why we are here. We were in major arrears, but at this point it’s a break-even scenario.”

While the news saddened staff, Gjerde and Polyoka wanted to be thoughtful about the closing.

“For me, in a few of the restaurants I worked in as a young cook or pastry chef, I found out that they were closing because when I got there, the doors were padlocked shut—and that was all the notice that I ever got that the restaurant was closing,” says Gjerde, who won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Mid Atlantic in 2015.

“I didn’t want that for this place or for these people or for our guests. Some of the families who come to this shop are my favorite people. They know that they could have paid less elsewhere but they wouldn’t get the quality of the meat that we’re doing anywhere else—connecting with these people has made it worth it.”

But Gjerde remains resolute. “We are not done with this,” he says. “But when we do it again—it’s not if but when—it will be with all of the knowledge and a much deeper understanding of how this actually works. We wouldn’t make the mistake of not having USDA again. And my biggest mistake is that I confused processing space with restaurant space—and those are two very different things.”

With the closing of the space, Gjerde is still sounding the alarm that, as consumers, we should consider the sourcing of everything we eat, especially meat.

“The reasons we thought it was important to do Parts & Labor are still out there—if anything they are more urgent,” he says. “Commodity meat production in this culture and all the environmental and social impacts and even the health issues that come from having this unending supply of cheap meat is a problem. Parts & Labor was what I thought was a rational response to what was wrong about the way we eat meat in this country.”

And while the restaurant enters its final week, the duo is far from giving up on the concept.

“I had high hopes for what Parts & Labor could do immediately for the local food systems,” says Gjerde. “But we’re not done.”

Across baseball stadiums and backyard barbeques, in greasy spoons and upscale eateries, hot dogs are inescapable this time of year—not that we’re complaining. The National Hot Dog and Sausage Council estimates that each summer from Memorial Day to Labor Day, Americans consume around seven billion hot dogs. That’s 818 franks per second. No matter what you call them—wieners, frankfurters, dogs—this Wednesday is your chance to celebrate with one or two of these classic American eats. Here, we round up some of the very best hot dogs in the city:

Stuggy’s: Whether you’re visiting their cozy Fells Point location or enjoying an O’s game at Camden Yards, Stuggy’s is one of those quintessential Baltimore eats. The family-owned institution serves up fan-favorite franks named after the likes of Bruce Lee and Frank Zappa, but you’re probably there for one reason: their crab mac-and-cheese dog. Piled high with homemade macaroni and lump crab, plus a generous dusting of Old Bay and a twist of lemon, it’s a homegrown delicacy that always hits the spot. 809 S. Broadway St., 410-327-0228

G & A Restaurant: G & A has called Eastern Avenue home since 1927, and with 90-plus years of experience, this down-home luncheonette has had plenty of time to figure out the ideal Coney Island-style hot dog. The dogs are grilled to perfection and heaped with chili, mustard, and raw onion, all for just $2.30 a pop. G & A also comes approved by celebrity chef Guy Fieri, who featured the restaurant on his Food Network show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. 3802 Eastern Ave., 410-276-9422

The Heavenly Hotdog Grill: Every day is a cookout at Heavenly Hotdog Grill. The Northeast Market establishment serves backyard favorites like mac and cheese, collard greens, and pit beef, but don’t miss their eponymous grilled franks. Try canine-themed dogs like the Great Dane—which is topped with lettuce, tomato, mayo, and sirloin steak—or the Flamin’ Dog, which boasts two kinds of peppers and jalapeño cheese. Better yet, none of the varieties cost more than $6. 201 E. Monument St., 410-831-7905

Snake Hill: The jury is still out on the practice of categorizing sausages as hot dogs, but Snake Hill is just too good to pass up. The Highlandtown tavern’s menu is built around cased meats of all varieties, including classics like pork and chicken and more exotic options like alligator, duck, and eggplant. Sample bites like the Pho-Q with pork, Sriracha, fennel, and Thai basil, and the Natty Boh brat, a bratwurst made with Baltimore’s favorite beer. 418 S. Clinton St., 410-469-9003

Haute Dog Carte: “Haute” is the right word for the creations at this Falls Road staple, run out of a converted garage by chef Daniel Raffel. Their offerings change daily, and they’re never boring—recent varieties included a bison dog with cherry chili barbeque sauce, a pizza dog, and chicken jalapeño dog with mango salsa. They’re only open Wednesday through Sunday until 2:30 p.m., so escape the office and celebrate the holiday with a gourmet lunch. 6070 Falls Rd., 410-608-3500

Attman’s Delicatessen: One of the few remaining holdouts of the famed Corned Beef Row, Attman’s is an old-school Jewish deli that boasts a following well beyond Baltimore. Their jumbo dogs come with bologna on top and optional additions like relish, onions, and chili—a treat that looks and tastes like it’s transported straight out of the Lower East Side. Pair it with a pickle and a heaping of French fries for a cheap, authentic meal. 1019 E. Lombard St., 410-563-2666

Five things to eat, drink, see, hear, and do with your Charm City weekend.

 EAT

March 17: St. Paddy’s Day Block Party at Parts & Labor

Parts & Labor, 2600 N. Howard St. 11 a.m. Free. 443-873-8887. 

From the takeoff of new businesses and foodie spots (think R. House and Clavel) to the announcement of the first-ever Remfest in May, Remington continues to blend its rich neighborhood history with its bold plans for the future. This weekend, two of the area’s mainstays are teaming up to celebrate the greenest day of the year with Irish classics like corned beef and Shepherd’s Pie from beloved butcher shop Parts & Labor and Old Oriole Park suds from Peabody Heights Brewery. Get to the shop early for beat-the-clock beer specials (beers start at 25 cents at 11 a.m., then increase to 50 cents at noon, and so on until 4 p.m.) and spend the afternoon devouring happy hour-priced snack specials around the fire pit.

 DRINK

March 17: Official Rye Whiskey Release Party

The Baltimore Whiskey Company, 2800 Sisson St. 1-5 p.m. Free. 443-687-9099. 

Since opening its doors in 2015, The Baltimore Whiskey Company has been preparing for the official return of rye whiskey distilling to Baltimore. And now, after three years of aging, the Remington-based company will release its first batch of Epoch Straight Rye to commemorate the first rye whiskey made in Baltimore in more than 50 years. With feature notes of clove, vanilla, honey, cinnamon, and tropical fruit, try this 100-proof spirit at its release party on Saturday, accompanied by eats from Well Crafted Pizza and Sugarvale.

 SEE

March 17: Torrey Smith Family Fund Charity Basketball Game

Royal Farms Arena, 201W. Baltimore St. 6:30 p.m. $15-100. 410-347-2006. 

NFL wide receiver Torrey Smith will wear a Carolina Panthers jersey next season, but after being drafted from the University of Maryland in 2011 and helping The Baltimore Ravens win a Super Bowl title in 2012, we’ll always claim him as one of our own. This Saturday, Smith and a group of his former and current teammates will return to Baltimore for the eighth annual charity basketball game to support his foundation, The Torrey Smith Family Fund, which benefits local after-school and teen mentoring programs. Watch these pro-football stars show off their basketball skills and enjoy giveaways and live entertainment during halftime.

 

 HEAR

March 17: Zip Into The Yellow Light

The Motor House, 120 W. North Ave. 8 p.m. $7-12. (410) 637-8300. 

Since his early years on the Baltimore club scene, Abdu Ali has hustled to create spaces—like live performances and DIY collectives—for marginalized members of the music community. This weekend, following the release of “DaWon” from his upcoming FIYA!!! mixtape, Ali will headline “Zip Into The Yellow Light,” a performance dedicated to using music as a transportation device into a metaphysical abyss where othered people can access every entity needed to fully live as themselves. International DJ BEARCAT, instrumental rock quartet Horse Lords, and legendary local voguer Marquis Revlon will open the show before Ali debuts new music on The Motor House stage.

 DO

March 16: TRÖEG-A Toga Party

American Visionary Art Museum, 800 Key Hwy. 8-11 p.m. $25-30. 410-244-1900.

It’s like that party from the movie Animal House, but with Tröegs beer, better snacks, and handmade crafts. This Friday, don your best bedsheet and head to the AVAM for a night of toga-filled fun to benefit the upcoming Kinetic Sculpture Race. After hitting the dance floor and sampling snacks from local restaurants like Encantada and Handlebar Café, make a keepsake craft using Tröegs Independent Brewing’s bottle caps, labels, and packaging. Don’t forget to enter to win killer raffle prizes like a behind-the-scenes tour of Oriole Park at Camden Yards and gift cards to places like Thames Street Oyster House and Race Pace Bicycles.

Cooking has changed a lot over the years—a trendy ingredient here, a futuristic technique there—but throughout the ages, one thing has remained the same: our obsession with the ancient element of fire. Since the dawn of civilization, we’ve been roasting, grilling, and toasting food over an open flame, using its smoke and embers to enhance the flavors of our meals. And while heat has never lost its cool in the kitchen, it’s now gaining newfound favor as chefs get back to the farm-to-table basics.

In Baltimore, most of those fires are ignited by Blue Moon Farms off Liberty Road in Randallstown. At this second-generation firewood business, owner Ben Cole provides fuel to more than 50 of the region’s top restaurants, from Cosima and La Cuchara to Linwoods and Cunningham’s. On any given day, he has multiple piles of oak, hickory, and cherry brought in from the forests of Pennsylvania and Western Maryland that are then split down to size, stacked a story high, and seasoned in the sun until the calls come in from local chefs. When they do, whatever the hour, he hops in his Ford F550 and sets off on deliveries, as early as three in the morning or as late as 11 at night.

The restaurant boom began about three years ago, says Cole, who used to focus on residential firewood, and now, he can barely keep up. These days, whether you’re having pizza at Paulie Gee’s or steak and potatoes at Parts & Labor, there’s a good chance that your dish was kindled by Cole’s woodpile. Luckily, though, he has one diehard employee—his 9-year-old son, Will—who happily helps around the yard. “It’s a family operation,” says Cole with a smile. “He would skip school [to work] if his mother let him.”

---

Caveman 101

Your primitive primer for playing with fire.

All woods are not created equal. Whether it’s oak, cherry, or walnut, each comes with distinct aromas and flavors, as well as densities and moisture levels that effect the output of heat and steam. Heavier woods, such as oak and hickory, are best for rich meats like pork and beef, while lighter woods, such as maple and fruit or nut varietals, lend themselves better to chicken and fish. 

License to Grill

Some local eateries that burn
Blue Moon wood.

Cosima
Mill No. 1, 3000 Falls Rd. 

Cunningham’s 
1 Olympic Pl. 

Gunther & Co.
3650 Toone St. 

Handlebar Café
511 S. Caroline St. 

La Cuchara
3600 Clipper Mill Rd. 

Linwoods
25 Crossroads Dr. 

Minnow
2 E. Wells St. 

Mission BBQ
3701 Boston St. 

Neopol Savory Smokery
529 E. Belvedere Ave. 

Parts & Labor
2600 N. Howard St. 

Paulie Gee’s
3535 Chestnut Ave. 

Rye Street Tavern
225 E. Cromwell St. 

Well Crafted Pizza
Locations vary.

OPEN

The Point in Towson: Baltimore County revelers no longer have to Uber to the city to enjoy the laid-back vibe of The Point in Fells, now that the popular watering hole has finally unveiled its second location in Towson. Set in the former home of The Crease on York Road, the chic spot features modern hanging light fixtures, exposed brick, and flat screens around every corner. The eats and drinks mimic the Fells Point flagship, with fine-tuned pub fare including moules frites and shrimp croquettes. There are also local beers on tap, and, of course, plenty of Orange Crushes to go around. 523 York Road, Towson, 410-327-7264

COMING SOON

Giada De Laurentiis Announces Horseshoe Casino Concept: A few months back, celebrity chef Giada De Laurentiis excited local foodies when she—fairly vaguely—hinted that she would be opening a restaurant in Baltimore while filming a Facebook Live video. Recently, the famed Food Network star confirmed the news, announcing that she will open a brand new eatery inside Horseshoe Casino in 2018. The Italian restaurant, whose concept has yet to be fully fleshed out, will take over the former Johnny Sanchez space on the casino’s second floor. The cantina from celebrity chefs Aaron Sanchez and John Besh shuttered its doors in September, shortly before a Times-Picayune report was published alleging sexual harassment by Besh. 1525 Russell St.

CH-CH CHANGES

Arômes: After three years of operating this charming French dining destination in Hampden, executive chef Steve Monnier is ready to switch things up. In a post to Facebook last week, he announced that he would be closing Arômes on November 11 in order to focus on another downtown concept, Chez Hugo. Stay tuned for updates. 3520 Chestnut Ave., 410-235-0035

Parts & Labor: Spike Gjerde’s restaurant group Foodshed is changing up the vibes at this meat-centric sister-spot. Starting on Friday, November 3, the Remington restaurant will ditch its fine-dining feel in favor of more casual sandwiches, soups, snacks, sides, and beer. The space will also reflect the relaxed atmosphere, with a new chalkboard wall and games like Ping Pong and cornhole for diners to enjoy outside near the communal firepit. To celebrate the relaunch, Parts & Labor is hosting a block party on Sunday, November 5, featuring new sandwiches, local beer, and live music by Super City. 2600 N. Howard St., 443-873-8887

One Star Country Club: Federal Hill’s casual cantina No Way Jose is now home to this bar that wants its patrons to leave it one-star reviews on Yelp. (Yes, you read that correctly.) In a time where everyone’s a critic, the concept encourages bar-goers to come see the space for themselves, rather than making a judgment based on others’ online reviews. Swing by the new spot to crack open a can of beer, down a specialty shooter, and chow down on eats like pulled pork nachos and French dip sandwiches. 38 E. Cross St., 410-727-5102

The Elephant: Following a nationwide search, husband-and-wife owners Steven and Linda Rivelis have found an executive chef to oversee culinary operations at this Mt. Vernon mansion. They landed on Venezuelan-born chef Orlando Amaro, a Culinary Institute of Mexico grad who most recently served as executive chef of D.C. hotspot Station 4 Restaurant. Chef Amaro’s experience cooking in kitchens everywhere from Miami Beach to Venezuela will be reflected in the restaurant’s new menu of worldly dishes, which premieres on Wednesday, November 8. 924 N. Charles St., 443-447-7878

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/4: Taste of the Marketplace
Mount Vernon Marketplace has organized this fun tasting event in an effort to help diners sample all of its stalls without breaking the bank. This weekend, bounce around to taste $5 snacks from the communal food hall’s participating vendors. Look out for favorites like charcuterie from Cultured, burgers from Between 2 Buns, dumplings from Pinch, and shrimp salad from The Local Oyster, as well as offerings from newbies like Mr. Souvlaki and Cucina Al Volo. 520 Park Ave., 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Free.

11/4: Waverly Brewing Company 2nd Anniversary Party
We can’t believe this Woodberry hotspot is already two. To celebrate its big birthday, the brewery is hosting an all-out bash featuring 20 draft beers and savory bites from neighbors Blue Pit BBQ. Plus, get down to tunes spun by DJs James Nasty, Graham Hatke, and Mom Jeans. 1625 Union Ave., 7 p.m., Free.

11/6-11/12: Baltimore Food Truck Week
More than 50 local kitchens-on-wheels are gearing up for the inaugural Baltimore Food Truck Week, which will feature specials from individual trucks and a handful of community events celebrating the area’s mobile vending scene. A culminating festival will be held at Patterson Park on Friday, November 10, featuring live music, local beer and wine, and, of course, fare from local trucks.

SHUT

The Room: We barely got to know this little subterranean space in Mt. Vernon, which closed for good earlier this week after owner Andre Mazelin announced that he would be exploring a new opportunity at Motor House in Station North. The spot was best known for its coffees, community events, and colorful ceiling mural by local painter Wendell “Solely Supreme” Shannon. “Together, we have played, jammed, discussed, laughed, cried, rallied and provided space for community,” Mazelin said in a farewell message posted to Facebook. “What a sweet, rollercoaster of a ride it’s been!” 800 Saint Paul St.

Once was, the idea of not packaging wine in a glass bottle was reserved for a cheap Franzia box in the fridge, a means to an end at an outdoor concert, or a laughable concept made popular on It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. But innovators like Black Box in California or Union Wine Co. out of Oregon have proven that good quality wine doesn’t only exist in a 750-milliliter bottle.

Now the owners of Old Westminster Winery, about an hour’s drive from Baltimore, say it’s time for Maryland to get in on the alternative packaging game by introducing the first canned wine to the market.

“If we had done this two years ago, I don’t know if the market would have been ready for it,” OWW co-founder Drew Baker says. “Producers are basically scared of making a product in a box, keg, or can because they think it will cheapen their brand. But we want to challenge that notion and think people are more willing to try something a bit off the wall.”

The staff at OWW will begin canning their first three releases on November 1, making a total of 500 cases for the market. There will be Carbonic, a semi-carbonated cabernet franc; the Farmer Fizz, a sparking home-vineyard chardonnay; and Seeds & Skins, a partially skin-fermented pinot grigio.

“With it being November, let’s do a juicy red, a sparking wine, and sort of this fall rosé style,” Baker explains. “We wanted to target campfire wines.”

In fact, the setting for drinking wine was part of the reason that the OWW founders were motivated to release this product. After toying with the idea in-house for a while, Baker talked to Foodshed managing partner Corey Poloyka, who runs the bar program at beachfront Sandlot. Because there is a strict no-glass policy, the bar was getting its boxed wine from South Africa and Baker realized then that a locally canned wine could have huge market potential.

“Our vision is to offer a product to enjoy while you’re camping or on the beach and you can leave the glass and corkscrew behind,” Baker says. “But this is still true to us being that its single-site, Maryland-grown, no makeup kind of wine.”

In fact, he emphasizes, the only thing different about the process of making these wines is at the very end. The product is still fermented with wild yeast and grown on their vineyards. Each can will be equivalent to half a bottle of wine, retail for $9.99, and be available in four packs or individuals. 

“Will there be that long-time wine club member that thinks we’re going off the deep end? Probably,” Baker says with a laugh. “But this isn’t a qualitative conversation. Putting something in a can will not ruin a product. These are wines that are meant to be enjoyed right now.”

The three varieties feature vibrant label graphics by Baltimore artist Rebecca Smith, and a release party will take place at Parts & Labor in Remington on November 12. The launch will be a street-party style event with live music, outdoor games, and that campfire element Baker knows will pair well with their new products.

“Cans aren’t better than cork,” he says. “But these are brighter, fresher styles of wine that are meant to be enjoyed, not cellared. We’re excited for a high-quality wine release that doesn’t have a lot of pretense.”

What is it about eating outside that seems to make food taste better? Maybe it’s the sunshine, or the breath of fresh air. Perhaps it’s the touch of cool grass beneath our feet, or the primal smell of grill marks on a well-seared steak. All we know is, we don’t need an excuse to pack a picnic. Whether it’s an extra-long lunch break or the start of the weekend, in the rolling countryside or right here in the city, fill a basket with these Maryland-made treats, spread out a blanket, and dig in.

Cunningham’s Baguette: Think of the baguette as the foundation for every picnic. Tear it in half and commence the feast. The Wine Source, 3601 Elm St.

Parts & Labor Charcuterie: The house-cured coppa, aged pork loin, and spicy bologna salami from this Remington butcher shop are musts for warm-weather spreads. Parts & Labor, 2600 N. Howard St.

FireFly Farms Black & Blue: Handmade in the mountains of Garrett County, this goat’s milk marvel delivers a welcome bite of blue funk. Whole Foods, 1001 Fleet St.

Hawks Hill Creamery Chesapeake Cheddar: This Old Bay-infused cheddar imparts a smoky flavor to snack on all summer long. Graul’s Market, 7713 Bellona Ave., Towson

Cherry Glen Goat Cheese: The popular MoCo cheesemonger makes a variety of piquant products, but the Monocacy Ash is its crème de la crème. Graul’s Market, 7713 Bellona Ave., Towson

Waxing Kara Honey: A drizzle of this harvested honey tempers even the spiciest of charcuterie. Honey House, 10209 Grand Central Ave., Owings Mills

McCutcheon’s Cherry Preserves: Use this old-fashioned chunky cherry spread as a tart topper for any type of cheese. Eddie’s of Roland Park, 5113 Roland Ave.

Hex Ferments Beet Pickles: With a hint of ginger, these briny beets provide the tangy crunch you never knew you needed. Hex Ferments, 529 E. Belvedere Ave.

Kinderhook Snacks: Whether you’re indulging in bite-size baked cheese stamps or spice-speckled smoked nuts, one handful of Kinderhook will never suffice. Trohv, 921 W. 36th St.

Manor Hill Brewing Grisette: This farmhouse ale out of Ellicott City is
like the love child of wheat beer and
dry white wine. Remington Wine Company, 329 W. 29th St.

Atwater’s Local Rye Crackers: These buttery crisps are great on their own but also ideal for all forms of scooping and spreading. 798 Kenilworth Dr., Towson

Trinacria Foods Olives: At this overflowing olive bar, make your own mix of purple, green, and even garlic-covered goodies. Trinacria Foods, 406 N. Paca St. 

Modern Cook Shop Pickles: Ask for a pint of special housemade pickles, like these addictive bread-and-butter chips. Modern Cook Shop, 901 S. Wolfe St.

Rooster & Hen Produce: Round out your basket with juicy local apples. Rooster + Hen, 2302 Frederick Road, Catonsville

Forget crowded Home Depot.
In case you are total procrastinators like us and have yet to scour the shelves of Home Depot and Ace Hardware, Station North Tool Library has you covered. On Thursday from 5-8 p.m., the tool shop and workspace will be selling custom-made flat head and snow shovels.

Put on some Drake and make yourself a cocktail.
Pretend it’s still 80 degrees out there by making a cocktail inspired by the song of the summer. Wit & Wisdom‘s head bartender Jonathan Levy shared the recipe for his winter cocktail Hot Line, which you can make at home or enjoy by one of the restaurant’s many fireplaces.

• 1.5 oz. Dewars White Label
• 0.5 oz. Drambuie
• 0.5 oz. honey syrup
• 0.5 oz. lemon juice
• 0.5 oz. orange juice
• 2 dash Angostura Bitters
• 3.5 oz. hot water

Combine in a preheated dock glass and top with hot water, orange twist garnish.

Do sweaty yoga inside a rock venue.
If you live local and want to layer on and trek over to Rams Head Live, the zen vibes will be flowing inside the concert venue on Sunday. M.Power Yoga Studio is hosting a Rock ‘n Flow event that will feature a beginner’s vinyasa class by instructors Nila Mechali and Lindsay Lusignea, set to a soundtrack of live music performed by Mickey Coviello of bluegrass band Cabinet and ambient tunes from The Herd Brothers. Update: Not surprisingly, Rock ‘n Flow has been postponed to February 12 due to weather.

Pelt snowballs at a bunch of strangers at the Washington Monument.
A couple of planned, neighborhood snowball fights have been cropping up, but we like the sound of this epic event taking place at the Washington Monument at noon on Saturday. (Organizers are also considering moving it to Sunday due to blizzard-like conditions.) Some important rules: stay warm, load up on carbs beforehand, and don’t be a jerk.

When all else fails, head to the bar.
Once you’ve exhausted all your available resources, enjoy one of the most characteristically Baltimore pastimes: trudging down to the corner bar. In all likelihood, they’ll be open and ready to serve. In fact, some of them, like Banditos in Federal Hill, are turning all of these Doppler radar reports into one giant party.

Much as he helped revitalize the Woodberry area of Hampden with Woodberry Kitchen, Spike Gjerde has transformed a blighted block of Remington into gastronomic gold with his latest farm-to-fork venture Parts & Labor. From inside this former car- and tire-repair shop, Gjerde has created a menu of cured meats, pork chops, and sausages cooked on an open hearth built of reclaimed Baltimore City cobblestones. It’s clear from the concept that the James Beard award finalist has a thing for the past. His idea—unfussy preparations all employing an element of open fire—harkens back to simpler times, but he’s put his own unmistakable Spike spin on it, continuing his commitment to engage with the agricultural economy of the Chesapeake region. (Even the
utensils—coming from Liberty in Sherrill, NY, the only U.S. manufacturer of stainless-steel flatware—have a local-as-possible provenance here.)

The front of the space features a nostalgic butcher shop with a wide selection of locally sourced meats such as pork from Whistle Pig Hollow and beef from Liberty Delight Farms. To further the feel, shelves are stocked with Gjerde’s house-made pickled and canned goods and handmade beeswax candles.

All of this, of course, is a preamble to the homey, hipster dining space with an equal amount of high-top communal tables and private booths. So when our hostess asks if we’d like to sit at a community table, we feel slightly misanthropic saying, “No.” Still, we are ushered past the heat of the hearth and settle into our private booth with a great view of the bustling bar area showcasing 20 brews on tap (from stouts to India pale ales) and a so-called growler station where they sell craft beer, lots of it local, to go.

It’s clear from the concept that the James Beard award finalist has a thing for the past.

Meat is the mainstay of the menu here, and butchering is practiced as high art. That’s not surprising when you consider that George Marsh, Gjerde’s head butcher is, in fact, a former art student. These days, he practices his craft in the form of whole-animal butchery, utilizing every part of the animal, which means there are cuts of meat represented here that you won’t find on other area menus.

While dry-aged cuts, including bottom blade (shoulder) and cattleman’s (beef knuckle), as well as organ meats (pig tail and blood sausage) and cured meats (garlic salami), are showcased, it’s a true testament to the kitchen’s deft touch that even vegetarians are flocking to Parts & Labor for seasonal salads and vegetable sides.

With the help of our server Nate (total Best-of contender), who helped guide us through unfamiliar fare, we started with a round of appetizers. We could have made a meal of the creamy cave-aged blue cheese paired with sour-cherry jam and a baguette made in Woodberry’s oven. The spicy cheese snack—in which grated cheddar and house-made cream cheese play off pickled onions and fish peppers—was equally flavorful, and the kale salad tossed with beets, strawberries, and house-made apple dressing was spring personified on a plate.

Even the meat entrees—served sliced—are meant for sharing, which adds to the communal vibe. Though the inventive sandwiches tempted us—a pork chop on a pretzel bun sounded promising, for example—we stuck with a robustly flavorful culotte steak and a buttery tri-tip. Both dishes were accompanied by an assertive herb-onion relish that gave great kick to the mellower meat. For even more palate punching, a bottle of house-made “Snake Oil” (fish pepper, cider, and sea salt) was served on the side.

The most adventurous among us ordered the Pride & Joy, a medley of pork skirt and kidney, strewn with fish peppers, toasted garlic, and cilantro with lettuce for wrapping. The plate—clean in no time—spoke for itself.

As every side arrived—grilled or griddled on the hearth—we proclaimed each one our favorite. In the final analysis, however, the griddled potatoes, crisp-crusted and screamingly hot from the grill, as well as stewed wood-ash hominy flecked with Anaheim peppers and tomatoes, were the clear winners.

Though the meal could have been heavy, we took the tapas approach, saving space for dessert. The quality and consistency of most everything we ate carried through to the final finish. The real dessert dazzler was a strawberry-rhubarb pie, offering lip-puckering tartness balanced by a blanket of sweet crumble.

By meal’s end, as every one of the 84 seats in the house was taken, our only lament was that a 7 p.m. reservation in a private booth was not going to be easy to score again. Next time around, we vowed, we’re willing to commune with everyone else.

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PARTS & LABOR 2600 N. Howard St., Baltimore, 443-873-8887.
HOURS Dinner: Sun.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m. 
CUISINE Farm-to-table with an emphasis on hearth-cooked meat.
PRICE Appetizers: $2-14; entrees: $9-25; desserts: $4-8.
ATMOSPHERE Farm chic in a rehabbed automotive shop.