There’s nothing people love more than a pleasant surprise. And that’s exactly what Lewisburg, West Virginia, is—a small town with big charm in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains and only a five-hour drive from Baltimore, with every minute worth it for a true getaway from city life, even if only for a long weekend.

In fact, Lewisburg was once described by Budget Travel as “America’s coolest small town,” on top of many other superlatives from the likes of Thrillist and Travel+Leisure.

Situated on the Greenbrier River and surrounded by forest, it unfurls like a mini oasis, offering countless delights to visitors—art galleries, antique stores, acclaimed restaurants, and an abundance of cultural institutions. Best of all, it’s a year-round draw, with annual events ranging from April’s Chocolate Festival to August’s Literary Festival to October’s Taste of Our Towns. It’s no wonder the town is becoming more popular with new residents and visitors alike. (Honestly, we hope it doesn’t become too popular.)

The bottom line: Don’t let any preconceived notions about West Virginia fool you. Upon entering the Mountain State, the first thing you might see is a welcome sign hailing this countryside as “wild and wonderful.” As you make your way to Lewisburg ideally with John Denver’s “Take Me Home, Country Roads” on blast—it’s hard not to agree.

AN EARLY RETREAT

On our most recent visit, we drove out of Baltimore, around Washington, D.C., and through the rolling hills of Virginia, then over the state line into Greenbrier County.

Incorporated in 1778, it is one of the oldest counties in West Virginia, and it was in those early days that the grand Greenbrier Resort first opened as an aristocratic vacationland in White Sulphur Springs. Just 10 miles east of Lewisburg, it’s a requisite pit-stop for local landmark history on the way to your final destination.

An easy train ride from Washington, D.C. (and once owned by the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway), the Greenbrier has long been a respite for guests coming from the urban epicenters of the Mid-Atlantic. That easy access helped draw a well-heeled clientele of politicians, celebrities, and other notable personas.

After World War II, New York society darling and interior designer Dorothy Draper was enlisted to reinvigorate the property, bringing a bright, colorful, maximalist aesthetic that remains today.

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Greenbrier still offers old-glam, five-star lodgings—some 710 resorts, 64 cottages, and six estates, to be exact—and then some. These days, there is also an on-site casino, golf course, bowling alley, all-ages arcade, and even “bunker tours” of its once-top-secret Cold War fallout shelters, said to have been created by President Eisenhower and reserved for Commanders-in-Chief.

Much as it was in the 18th century, the resort continues to be a wellness destination, with the region’s cool mountain air providing a reprieve from the heat and humidity of cities, and its natural springs full of mineral-rich water, said to be soothing for arthritis, stress, and other ailments. Today, the luxury spa offers everything from signature soaks to salt-cave treatments, massages, and meditation.

Walk the grounds, breathe in the medicinal air, then move on down the road for the less grandiose but equally gratifying charm of Lewisburg.

TOWN & COUNTRY

Less than 10 miles from the Greenbrier, the Midland Trail Byway, aka Route 60, eventually turns into the tiny town of Lewisburg. Originally established as an outpost in the 1750s by its namesake surveyor, Andrew Lewis, it’s located a stone’s throw from the Greenbrier River, which flows wide and splendid.

Officially laid out in 1780, the town of Lewisburg largely consists of two thoroughfares, Washington and Jefferson streets. Charming houses and eclectic businesses abound, and walking around is the best way to explore them, as well as their array of architectural styles.

It’s a small downtown—population 3,800—but on every street corner, there is a strong sense of community and creative spirit, plus a welcoming attitude toward out-of-towners.

In the springtime, just be sure to stop and smell the red begonias. In a tradition that dates back decades, the town’s unofficial flower will be hanging from streetlights and garden fences throughout the warm-weather season.

ARTS + HISTORY

For those initially lured to Lewisburg by the Greenbrier, there might be history buffs in tow. Luckily for them, the town’s Historic Landmarks Commission has created a self-led walking tour for the many notable local sites.

The route is available online, as well as via a complimentary printed map that can be picked up at the Greenbrier Valley Visitors Center. Highlights include one of Industrial Revolution tycoon Andrew Carnegie’s four Carnegie Halls, which, as in New York City, hosts live performances and rotating exhibits, like their outdoor concert series throughout the summer.

Also worth visiting is the North House Museum and Archives, where exhibitions, lectures, and a research library are on hand for inquisitive visitors.

A less likely time warp can be found at Flanagan’s Barbershop, whose circa-1860 building has continuously housed a hair-cuttery since the turn of the 20th century. With two old-school swivel chairs, you can still get a snip or a shave today.

As the local Carnegie indicates, even all the way out here, there’s no dearth of arts and culture. Another historic site gets a modern twist at the circa-1939 Lewis Theatre, a vaudeville stage turned modernized space with retro film screenings, dance performances, and live music.

Meanwhile, the Greenbrier Valley Theatre, now in its 57th season, serves as the state professional theater of West Virginia. Across town, multiple galleries also showcase art on display and for sale, like Paragon Fine Art, with rotating exhibitions, and the Lee Street Studios artist collective. Housed in a historic elementary school, the latter fittingly hosts on-site classes, from watercolor painting to woodworking, as well as community events.

QUAINT COMMERCE

Looking to take home a memento other than an artistic masterpiece? A bevy of shops is another boon downtown. Fun fact: Many of the businesses are owned and operated by women, like The Golden Rabbit, an eclectic boutique run by art dealer Adrienne French, whose curated selection includes antiques, jewelry, and home goods, from Tiffany lamps to originals by modernist artist Eva Zeisel.

So far from the ocean, you won’t be surprised to learn that, across the street at the Lewisburg Surf Shop, there are no boards in sight, but instead a luxury goods mecca that would be as much at home on Melrose or Madison avenue. Run by fashion industry veteran and Lewisburg native Meredith German, this itty-bitty boutique is home to clothing brands ike Marni, Saint James, and Proenza Schouler.

More clothing can be found at Cat and Kate, a mother-daughter-owned shop with lots of colorful womenswear and gifts. Meanwhile, Istanbul designer Cybele Bo’s Cybele stocks one-of-a-kind, handmade accessories, while Wolf Creek runs a longstanding store that’s stuffed floor-to-ceiling with boho-chic clothing.

For something a bit more literary, the independent New Chapter Bookstore is a bookworm’s must, featuring bindings for all ages. Be sure to check their calendar for the next Scrabble Night or Book Club.

And if you didn’t scratch that antique itch? Collectors are covered, thanks to multiple establishments selling second-hand treasures of every variety. Find them at Robert’s, Brick House, and Patina, to name a few.

EDIBLE DELIGHTS

After all that shopping, it’s easy to work up an appetite. For both real foodies and fans of comfort-food-style Southern cuisine, Lewisburg has a plethora of options all within strolling distance, many of which place an emphasis on local ingredients.

At The French Goat, guests can slowly peruse the elegant menu of this European-inspired, farm-to-table bistro, voted best fine dining and best brunch by WV Living Magazine. We recommend indulging in duck confit and truffle frites.

Around the corner in a converted 19th-century stable, The Livery Tavern also offers sophisticated dining, founded on a bedrock of local steak, plus hints of Creole and Indian flavors. Come for a meal but stay for craft cocktails, using regional spirits, beers, and ciders, mostly made in West Virginia.

For something more casual, the RNCVRT bakery, located a short drive south of town, sells sweet gluten-free treats, healthful salads, and local coffee from Cherry River Roasting Company.

Back at Stardust Cafe downtown, an eco-friendly approach imbues every aspect of lunch and dinner, which means they use everything from fair-trade ingredients to biodegradable packaging. Go for fresh pastas, a signature burger (using Lewisburg beef, of course), and a well-curated wine list.

The Bavarian-inspired Briergarten also shines with a selection of house brewed beers and casual noshes like pretzels and bratwursts, while Thunderbird Taco slings Tex-Mex cuisine with a West Virginia twist, featuring meat and produce from area farms. We especially like the black bean burrito with homemade buttermilk crema and slaw.

Pack some provisions for a hike or the trip home from Bella, a corner shop crafting cheese plates and charcuterie boards, with picnic baskets available for purchase. Also peruse their shelves that showcase specialty ingredients like Momofuku chili crunch, Starlino cocktail cherries, and West Virginia’s own J.Q. Dickinson salts, made up the road in Malden.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

After singing the praises of Lewisburg’s quaint charms, we want to direct you away from town. After all, more than three-quarters of the Mountain State is—you guessed it—covered in woodland, from the Greenbrier State Forest located just outside of town to plenty of other impressive state and national parks within a short driving distance.

At the former, some 5,000 acres of wild land offer endless ways to hike, bike, swim, fish, and camp. For the amenity-inclined, there’s even a heated pool open from Memorial Day through Labor Day. That said, for outdoor enthusiasts, it’s also an ideal starting point for the 78-mile Greenbrier River Trail, a former railroad path now paved for leisurely strolls, fast-paced biking, and even horseback riding.

Further afield, to the north, the southern-most tip of the massive Monongahela National Forest offers a biodiverse treasure trove of flora and fauna, plus hiking trails, creek-side camping, and places to paddle.

Back near the Virginia line, the 1.8-million-acre George Washington & Jefferson National Forest is an even larger landscape, home to lush groves of old-growth trees, mountain streams, and picturesque peaks as far as the eye can see.

Each season in Cumberland Valley promises an endless array of experiences for the ultimate weekend getaway, but it’s during the fall that this region truly comes alive. Now is the perfect time to plan a vibrant escape brimming with festivals, food, fun, and more. Whether you are traveling as a couple, with family, or alongside friends, you can dine, play, explore, and discover the perfect place to get away from it all. So, grab your favorite jacket, lace up your walking shoes, and immerse yourself in warm days and pleasantly cool nights amid the quiet, natural beauty of southcentral Pennsylvania, just a short 1.5-hour drive from Baltimore. Your weekend is calling.

Cumberland Valley Beer Trail

Tap, tour, and try a pint along the Cumberland Valley Beer Trail, where you can experience the unique flavors of locally crafted beers, wines, ciders, and spirits at more than 30 locations. Sign up for a free digital passport, check in at participating locations, and start earning prizes. You will be impressed with the year-round seasonal releases, but for many, fall is the best time to enjoy some fantastic pours.

This weekend is about you, so choose your locations based on your tastes and preferences: Dine inside or outdoors, try a new beer style, or order distilled spirits instead, listen to live music, or find a quiet, intimate location for two; or enjoy a Sunday brunch or a post-hike happy hour.

Outdoor Recreation

Whether you are an experienced hiker or biker or novice, discover and explore Cumberland Valley’s more than 200 miles of scenic trails, including the iconic Appalachian Trail.

Sweater weather makes hiking even better. Seek solitude and serenity as you meander along trails glowing with dazzling fall foliage colors or try a more challenging hike where you will be rewarded with spectacular panoramic views of the Cumberland Valley.  Whatever trail you choose, you will be whisked away from buzzing electronics and mundane to-do lists and into wide-open spaces that will elicit plenty of “oohs” and “aahs.”

Fall Fun

Cumberland Valley is a year-round destination for an eclectic mix of seasonal festivals and events, but it outdoes itself in the fall when you can celebrate the season’s bounty mixed with food, drinks, entertainment, and fine arts. As you stroll around downtowns filled with boutique shops and the palate-pleasing cuisine of local restaurants, you might find yourself in the center of festivals focused on pumpkins, apples, sunflowers, and juried crafts.

Mid-to-late October is the perfect time of year to experience the dazzling fall foliage in Cumberland Valley with a driving tour of Instagram-worthy locations that covers 102 miles of picturesque country roads brimming with beautiful colors. As you cruise the back roads, turn up the radio, roll down the windows, and take in the natural beauty of a serene and stunning landscape. Along the way, you’ll see evidence of Cumberland Valley’s strong agricultural tradition. Stop at roadside stands for seasonal fresh-picked produce or head to a farmers market where you can pick your own apples or pumpkins, take a hayride, and roam through a corn maze. The new Cumberland Valley Farm Fresh Trail is a perfect guide, allowing users to check-in at participating locations to earn prizes.

Places to Stay

Cumberland Valley’s hotels fit every style and budget. From luxurious lodging to comfortable and conveniently located brand hotels, to intimate and unique bed and breakfasts, your accommodations promise a perfect home base for your getaway. 

Plan Your Trip

Browse VisitCumberlandValley.com for more information on everything there is to see and do here. Be sure to order a copy of the free Cumberland Valley Visitors Guide to help plan your trip.

What are you waiting for? Your weekend is calling. The hardest part is returning home.

On the southeasternmost edge of the Chesapeake Bay, it feels like a world away from Baltimore as salty water laps gently on a quiet public beach. Along sand-swept Bay Avenue, the dormers and eaves of 100-year-old Victorian and Colonial Revival homes peer above a stretch of short, grassy dunes. And, across an entirely walkable six-block historic downtown, crepe myrtle, sycamore, and pecan trees offer color, shade, and a sense of calm. Even in late summer, there are no crowds.

But despite the vastly different pace, it only took four hours to drive out of the city, over the Bay Bridge, head south—way south—and then arrive at Cape Charles, Virginia, a tiny slice of solitude worth discovering, with such hidden-gem status near the mouth of the nation’s largest estuary that we’re hesitant to possibly spoil the secret.

Finding it is easy enough, and you’re already halfway there when heading toward Ocean City. But on the well-traveled Salisbury route, travel south on Route 13 instead of staying east on 50. Following a mostly country thoroughfare, you’ll cross from the Eastern Shore of Maryland into the wilds of the Eastern Shore of Virginia, a rural sliver of the Old Dominion State so small that it’s not even included on some maps. Maybe that’s because the tail of the Delmarva Peninsula is a cartographer’s anomaly, made up of two Virginia counties on a stretch of land otherwise dominated by Maryland and Delaware.

Eventually, after stopping at the occasional traffic light, you’ll reach a nondescript exit for your destination. A little while later, past the farmland, the water tower painted like a lighthouse, and the lone brewery, you’ll behold an old main drag that runs west toward the town’s historic district. Charming brick storefronts line the north side, while the remnants of a once-bustling railroad and maritime industry, well-used through the first half of the 20th century, run the other.

The town’s population today is only 1,178, so if you’re looking for raucous nightlife, tourist attractions, and a major hospital within 50 miles, look elsewhere. But if you’re seeking an escape to an easy-to-get-to, out-of-the-way Chesapeake beach town that offers water almost as salty as places like Ocean City, Rehoboth, and Dewey—without the traffic—Cape Charles is a perfect place to spend some time.

Once upon a time, starting in the late 1880s, a railroad line from New York City terminated in Cape Charles, making the town one of the busiest and largest economic hubs on all of the Eastern Shore. To get to mainland Virginia or parts south, summering Northerners would travel by train to Northampton County, which grew with the travel volume.

By 1907, a steamship made two round trips daily from Cape Charles across the mouth of the Chesapeake to Norfolk and the railroad employed about 2,000 people in town. Those were the days, and they lasted several decades. Then, in 1951, the ferry route moved—only a few miles south to Kiptopeke (where today there’s also a beach at a state park)—far enough that the railroad terminus moved, too, and Cape Charles soon became like the other forgotten towns on Route 66 out west. Doubly so when the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, which allowed access to and from southern Delmarva by car, opened in 1964.

After that, Cape Charles grew quieter and quieter, drab even, with little to no investment in the ensuing years. In the 1990s alone, the full-time population fell by 19 percent. Scars of the decline, like an abandoned building on an otherwise occupied stretch of homes, remain. While downtown Cape Charles was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1991, the only way we found it for the trip that inspired this story was through a whimsical online search for affordable bayside accommodations. Fortunately, Cape Charles is on Google Maps.

Turns out, with East Coast vacation destinations at a premium, the beach town, located almost as far south as you can get on the Chesapeake (thus the enjoyable saltwater influence from the Atlantic while still on the bay), has been enjoying a comeback of sorts. In the two years leading up to the COVID pandemic, it added 22 new businesses downtown. Small as the population is, it’s 17 percent greater than it was in 2010, and there’s been a major increase in seasonal and weekend residents.

Mostly, Cape Charles has attracted a new generation of Virginian beach-seekers looking for a place to relax, be it young people looking for a getaway or those in or near retirement. Roughly half of its population is over 60, and a third of the homes in town have been built since 2000, most on or near the gated and award-winning Bay Creek Resort and Golf Club. Last year, Southern Living dubbed it the “best little beach town in Virginia.”

In the warmer months, the population swells by two or three times. (That’s still to only about 3,000.) It’s quaint, yet there’s just enough to satisfy an eager curiosity. You could go by yourself or on a day trip with a friend or partner, but the town is also family-friendly, with cute shops like Moonrise Jewelry, Table & Tonic gift shop, Buskey Cider on the Bay, and Brown Dog Ice Cream on Mason Avenue—the town’s main street—which runs into the Cape Charles Beachfront.

The beach certainly isn’t the size of ones you’ll find on the ocean, but it’s big enough to spread out, given the relatively small number of fellow visitors, at least during the late August week that we visited. The calm water is also great for children or swimmers who don’t want to deal with crashing waves. In the morning, parking a car mere feet from the sand on Bay Avenue was a breeze. Kids ran up and down the pavement. Adults dragged out chairs and other gear.

Simple, easy beach access is why you might go to Cape Charles, but without knowing much about the place beforehand, we chose an Airbnb guesthouse on a farm a short jaunt outside town. Our kind hosts harvested oysters from the creek bordering their property and tended to their animals. We took afternoon naps in a hammock overlooking a dock and weighed whether to kayak by high-tide times. We’d stay there again, but there are other options.

Cape Charles is mostly a collection of modest single-family homes, about 750 in the historic downtown, largely built between 1885 and 1920. At its start, the town was organized in a small grid of 40-by-140- foot lots by Pennsylvania Congressman William Scott, who bought about 2,500 acres of three plantations from the heirs of former Virginia Governor Littleton Tazewell as part of a plan to extend the Pennsylvania Railroad another 65 miles from Pocomoke, Maryland. That meant a railway from Manhattan would end in the new town. During the ensuing boom years, a few hundred homes were built, and even a mini Central Park remains.

Today, next to a coffee shop, you’ll find the Hotel Cape Charles, a century-old building (much closer to the water than our Airbnb farmhouse) that’s almost always been a hotel and has been reimagined today as boutique lodging. For a long while, Cape Charles flourished, as people simply had to pass through it to go up or down the Eastern Shore, and the area had northern leanings well below the Mason-Dixon Line in the post-Civil War era.

According to the late author Kirk Mariner in Off 13—an Eastern Shore of Virginia guidebook—Cape Charles had “the first Roman Catholic and the only Jewish congregations ever assembled on the Virginia Shore.” And the most famous resident of the 1890s was a Baptist preacher who lived in town but commuted weekly by train to his congregation in New York. Reminders and relics of the deeper past remain. Along the rock-and-dirt driveway to our guesthouse was the grave of another earlier Baptist preacher, Elijah Baker, who is credited with founding 18 Delmarva churches and, in 1778, before the Revolutionary War afforded Americans religious freedom, was jailed for giving sermons during the Church of England’s reign. The water closest to where he is buried near Lower Northampton Baptist Church is called Old Plantation Creek.

In downtown Cape Charles, you could easily spend a day or two on the beach, walking to and from a rental house or the hotel with no need for a car.  Some people drive golf carts around, which is part of the charm. So are themed vacation homes adorned with signs and special paint jobs, like “Liberty on the Bay,” “Key Lime,” and “Beach Gate.” But to get around any further to places outside the historic district, you’ll likely want a vehicle.

A few such places to consider: On the other side of the railroad tracks adjacent to Mason Avenue is Shanty, where you can enjoy local oysters and watch the sunset from the deck next to the Cape Charles harbor. A little farther north, The Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery is a spacious, family-friendly restaurant with a casual vibe where oyster shells litter the beach nearby. Take a memorable Cape Cod-esque photo on a pair of towering lifeguard chairs overlooking the bay. Townhomes and new commercial development seemed to be going up in this area. Cape Charles Brewing Company also features local beers with outdoor games and picnic tables available. If you can get access (since it’s a private club), golfers will love Bay Creek, home to 27 holes designed by golf legends Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus, regularly ranked among the top courses in Virginia with scenic views of the bay and fine amenities.

Cape Charles is also only about an hour-and-a-half’s drive from Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, where the wild ponies roam, making it a nice jumping-off point for a visit. We stopped there and took a guided boat tour on our way back home. See also Chatham Vineyards for local wine in Machipongo, the Onancock Market for farm-fresh produce, and the Blue Crab Bay Co. store for spiced Virginia peanuts in Melfa.

Make no mistake, Cape Charles isn’t the place to find fast-paced action. As Southern Living described, “The whole place seems to tuck in for the night not long after the sun goes down.” But, given the right intentions and expectations, the extra hour or so it might take than to get to the Atlantic beaches or other bayside towns is justified. Especially if you’re looking for a quiet and affordable trip, or just want to experience someplace new that feels farther away than it is.

he phrase “the new normal” has been thrown around since the COVID-19 pandemic began, and as America struggles to define—and design—what that is exactly, colleges are paving the way for what it might look like.

After the chaos and uncertainty of 2020, colleges and universities throughout the Baltimore region began to find their groove as they moved into the 2021-2022 school year. Coronavirus safety committees had been erected, new mandates put in place, safety protocols implemented—everything from vaccine requirements to temperature checks to quarantine procedures and wastewater testing that can pinpoint a COVID infection before anyone is symptomatic.

By some counts, colleges may very well be the safest places to live and work.

“Just following simple rules of wearing face masks and social distancing, using wastewater management and testing when we need to, we have, in many ways, been able to return to normal life,” says Goucher College President Kent Devereaux. “Full athletics, student clubs, dining in the dining hall, use of the library—everything that you’d normally have, we’ve been able to return to.”

Despite the challenges and anxieties faced by students, staff, and faculty alike, some unexpected silver linings have emerged.

“It’s just incredible to watch how it’s grown into the vision that we, as a group of students, had.”

The widespread adoption of technology across college campuses has proven to provide more flexibility, efficiency, and innovation—and even accessibility, in some cases. Counseling sessions, for example, began to be conducted remotely during the pandemic and many students found that they preferred it to in-person sessions. Students who cannot, for whatever reason, make it to an in-person class can now study from anywhere.

Challenging times, combined with advances in technology and the general acceptance of it, have also brought more cooperation and collaboration among schools. It’s becoming more common, for example, for schools that offer complementary programs to partner with one another to offer students an educational pathway to continue studies in their chosen areas. That may mean a discounted tuition rate, a transfer of class credits, or an internship through a partner school.

Maybe most importantly though, schools, at their best, foster an environment where students are supported, expand who they are, and connect with like-minded people. At a time when gathering together is not always safe, being in a community has become even more precious, and students have found new ways to connect.

OCA Mocha, a coffeehouse in Arbutus founded by University of Maryland, Baltimore County (UMBC) students, is one example of how effective a gathering place can be at a time when people are craving human connection. What started as a class assignment—to design a community center of some sort—has become a gathering place not just for UMBC students and alumni, but the Arbutus community at large.

“We’ve heard a lot of stories from people who are extremely grateful to have this space,” says Michael Berardi, UMBC class of 2019 and co-founder and general manager of OCA Mocha, which stands for Opportunities for Community Alliances. The coffee shop includes a stage, a community room, and an art gallery, employs UMBC students and alumni, and provides internship opportunities for current UMBC students.

“We have local groups and organizations that meet regularly in our community space and are grateful to not have to meet in someone’s living room or church basement,” says Berardi. “We see a lot of connections being made. It’s just incredible to watch how it’s grown into the vision that we, as a group of students, had.”

We checked in with colleges and universities throughout the region to find out what’s new and what campus life and classes look like, two years into the pandemic.

COPPIN STATE UNIVERSITY
A historically Black institution founded in 1900, Coppin State University is situated in the heart of Baltimore City in the Mondawmin neighborhood. Part of the University System of Maryland in Baltimore, the school offers 32 undergraduate and 11 graduate degrees, along with nine certificate programs and one doctorate degree. It’s been rated No. 4 Best HBCU in the Nation (College Consensus), the Top 5 Best Value Online Program (Online School Center), and No. 17 Best Value in the Nation (College Consensus).

In the summer of 2021, CSU announced its Student Debt Relief Initiative, which clears roughly $1 million in student balances and provided a $1,200 credit to every student enrolled in the fall 2021 semester. CSU also created the Freddie Gray Student Success Scholarship, which is available to graduates of Carver Vocational-Technical High School, where Gray was a student.

Coppin also takes esports (competitive video gaming) seriously. In the fall of 2021, Coppin became the first HBCU to open a building on campus exclusively devoted to esports. The Premier Esports Lab opened in September with a guest appearance from Grammy-nominated artist Cordae.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 2,383 undergraduates, 341 graduates
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 13:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $6,809 in-state, $13,334 out-of-state
• ACCEPTANCE RATE: 40%
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Nursing, Business, Biology, Education, and Criminal Justice, Rehabilitation Counseling

DICKINSON COLLEGE
Founded in 1783, Dickinson College is a liberal arts college in Carlisle, Pennsylvania, with a suburban campus that spans 144 acres. The school offers 41 undergraduate degrees within 17 fields of study.

It’s been rated as one of the best schools in the country for its sustainability efforts, which include an 80-acre, USDA-certified organic farm. Princeton Review rated it No. 2 in the Top 50 Green Colleges, and it was rated No. 2 in Overall Top Performers among baccalaureate institutions in the Association for the Advancement of Sustainability in Higher Education’s “Sustainable Campus Index” in 2019 and 2020.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 2,345
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 9:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $58,708
• ACCEPTANCE RATE: 52%
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: International Business, Economics, Political Science & Government, International Relations & National Security, General Psychology

GETTYSBURG COLLEGE
Gettysburg College, a private, liberal arts school, sits on 225 acres adjacent to the historical Gettysburg Battlefield in Pennsylvania. Many of the buildings on campus are historically significant, so it’s no wonder that it draws students interested in studying history.

The school offers 65 academic programs, more than 120 campus clubs and organizations, and 800 events on campus each year, plus more than 100 study-abroad opportunities open to students.

Its Majestic Theater serves as a venue for the greater Gettysburg community, hosting national acts as well as performances by the school’s Sunderman Conservatory of Music students.

It’s ranked No. 12 for “students who study the most” by the Princeton Review, which also ranked Gettysburg College’s dining hall No. 9 in the country for best campus food.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 2,600
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 10:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $59,960
• ACCEPTANCE RATE: 56%
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Political Science, Economics, Health Sciences, Organization and Management Studies, History, Psychology

GOUCHER COLLEGE
A private, liberal arts college in Towson, Goucher College prides itself on its close-knit community.

Goucher was extremely proactive when it came to COVID-19 precautions, being the first in the state to implement wastewater testing, which is able to isolate COVID infections by dorm.

Also of note: The college recently opened two new residence halls as part of the school’s First-Year Village. One hundred percent of Goucher students study abroad, and the school is committed to sustainability.

Most recently, Goucher has begun exciting partnerships with other schools, such as Johns Hopkins University, Loyola University, and more to come, to provide a pathway for students to continue their education beyond Goucher. For instance, their 4+1 MBA Program allows students to earn an advanced business degree through Loyola via a “Fast Track” admission process, and at a 15% discount on tuition.

SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 1,100
STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 9:1
ANNUAL TUITION: $48,000
ACCEPTANCE RATE: 79%
POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Psychology, International Relations, Economics, Political Science, Business Administration

JOHNS HOPKINS UNIVERSITY
Johns Hopkins University (JHU) offers nine academic divisions and hundreds of courses of study, with campuses spread throughout Baltimore, including the Peabody Institute, a music and dance conservatory in Mount Vernon. Its main Homewood campus is located on North Charles Street.

The prestigious, world-renowned university has a strong reputation for its public health and medical studies and has been compared to Ivy League schools.

One of its points of pride is its financial aid program, which covers 100% of calculated need for every admitted student, without loans. This means JHU works with families to calculate what they can afford to contribute toward the total cost of attendance—including meals, books, travel, and other expenses—and JHU covers the rest with grants that don’t need to be repaid.

This school year, JHU added two new minors: Latin American Studies and Writing Seminars.

It also announced new efforts this year to move toward a broader, more flexible undergraduate educational experience that will include a required first-year seminar and the streamlining of major requirements to allow for greater intellectual exploration.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 6,333 undergraduates, 22,559 graduates
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 6:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $56,313 for Peabody Institute, $58,720 for the School of Engineering and the School of Arts and Sciences
• ACCEPTANCE RATE: 9%
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Computer Science, Molecular and Cellular Biology, Neuroscience, Economics, Public Health Studies, International Studies

LOYOLA UNIVERSITY
This private, Jesuit institution offers undergraduate and graduate programs on a beautiful urban campus in northern Baltimore City. Education at Loyola is based in the Jesuit tradition of scholarship cura personalis, or care for the whole person. Loyola is known for its academic rigor while helping students lead purposeful lives. Seventy percent of students study abroad. It currently ranks fourth in best universities in the North region according to U.S. News & World Report.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 3,787 undergraduates, 1,353 graduates
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 12:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $53,430
• ACCEPTANCE RATE: 80%
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Business, Management, Marketing, Journalism, Social Sciences, Biological and Biomedical Sciences, Psychology, English Language and Literature, Engineering and Education.

McDANIEL COLLEGE
McDaniel College sits in a bucolic setting near Westminster in Carroll County. The private, four-year liberal arts college offers more than 70 undergraduate programs of study and more than 20 graduate programs. McDaniel’s most recent addition to its curriculum is a National Security Fellows Program that provides students with knowledge, skills, and experience in national security as well as the ability to specialize in an area of interest, such as interstate conflict, intrastate political violence, cybersecurity, ethics, and human rights.

Also new this year, McDaniel appointed an inaugural associate provost for equity and belonging who provides vision and leadership to the Office of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion and works in collaboration with the provost to co-lead the college’s diversity, equity, and inclusion administrative committee, and guides the Bias Education Response Support Team.

The school also launched a new STEM Center to serve as a physical hub to support students studying the sciences. It hosts workshops and other events while also supplying online and hybrid support.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 1,757 undergraduates, 1,324 graduates
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 13:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $46,336
• ACCEPTANCE RATE: 81%
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Kinesiology, Business Administration, Psychology, Biology, Political Science, International Studies

MORGAN STATE UNIVERSITY
The largest of Maryland’s HBCU’s (Historically Black Colleges and Universities), Morgan is a public institution founded in 1867. It is situated in northeast Baltimore. As a Carnegie-classified high research (R2) institution, Morgan provides instruction to a multiethnic, multiracial, multinational student body and offers more than 140 academic programs at undergraduate and graduate levels. As Maryland’s Preeminent Public Urban Research University, Morgan fulfills its mission to address the needs and challenges of the modern urban environment through intense community level study and pioneering solutions.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 6,270 undergraduates, 1,364 graduates
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 15:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $8,008 for in-state and $18,480 for out-of-state
• ACCEPTANCE RATE: 73%
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Civil Engineering, Communications Engineering, Business Administration and Management, Social Work, Biology/Biological Sciences, Architecture, Finance, Psychology, Sociology

NOTRE DAME OF MARYLAND UNIVERSITY
A private, Catholic liberal arts university in northern Baltimore, Notre Dame of Maryland University offers programs from undergraduate through PhD, as well as Maryland’s only women’s college. It recently launched the first master’s of art degree in Art Therapy program in the state.
The beautiful, wooded campus is just steps from the bustling downtown Baltimore culture. With values rooted in Catholicism, the school focuses on service to others and social responsibility.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 783
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 7:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $39,675
• ACCEPTANCE RATE: 88%
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Nursing, Education, Biology, Art Therapy, Pharmacy

TOWSON UNIVERSITY
One of the largest public universities in the state, Towson University offers more than 60 undergraduate majors and continues to draw students from other states, though it remains part of the University System of Maryland.

Its campus continues to expand, with a huge new dining hall, a 23,000-foot recreation and fitness facility with an indoor swimming pool, and its 5,200-seat arena for sporting events and concerts. In 2021, it opened its new Science Complex, the largest academic building on campus at 320,000 square feet.

In September, Towson opened its StarTUp at the Armory, a space for startups and new businesses to engage with the broader community and larger businesses. It serves as a home to Towson’s entrepreneurship programs, as well as student competitions and events.

While Towson remains the largest supplier of medical professionals and educators in the state, the university has also built a strong reputation for its College of Fine Arts and Communication, as well as its Asian Arts & Culture Center, both of which bring students into the wider community and the Baltimore community to Towson for enriching performing arts, music, and visual art programs.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 17,907 undergraduates, 2,949 graduates
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 16:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $7,100 in-state, $22,152 out-of-state
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Business Administration, Education, Nursing, Exercise Science, Psychology, Sociology and Anthropology, Biology, Computer Science, Information Technology

UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND, BALTIMORE
University of Maryland, Baltimore is Maryland’s only public health, law, and human services university. Located in downtown Baltimore, it offers 86 degree and certificate programs through its six nationally ranked professional schools—dentistry, law, medicine, nursing, pharmacy, and social work—and an interdisciplinary graduate school.

The school’s 14-acre BioPark is Baltimore’s biggest biotechnology cluster, employing 1,000 people, and remains on the cutting edge of new drugs, treatments, and medical devices.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 7,244
• ANNUAL TUITION: Varies by school
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Medicine, Law, Dentistry, Pharmacy, Nursing, Social Work

UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND, BALTIMORE COUNTY
University of Maryland, Baltimore County educates a campus of more than 10,000 students in programs spanning the arts, engineering, information technology, humanities, sciences, preprofessional studies, and social sciences. Located on the edge of Baltimore County, it allows easy access into the city and all the conveniences of suburban life and housing. It also offers plenty of opportunities for study abroad.

In the fall of 2021, UMBC opened the Center for Well-Being, a new two-story complex that houses Retriever Integrated Health, Student Conduct and Community Standards, and i3b’s Gathering Space for Spiritual Well-Being. UMBC’s already significant NASA partnerships have continued to grow. In October, NASA announced a major award of $72 million over three years for the new Goddard Earth Sciences Technology and Research II center. UMBC is leading the national consortium and will receive over $38 million. The GESTAR II consortium will support over 120 researchers, creating extensive opportunities for breakthroughs in Earth and atmospheric science research, and providing major opportunities for students to conduct research and be mentored by NASA scientists and engineers.

• SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: 13,638
• STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO: 17:1
• ANNUAL TUITION: $12,280 in-state, $28,470 out-of-state
• ACCEPTANCE RATE: 81%
• POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY: Computer and Information Sciences and Support Services, Biological and Biomedical Sciences, Social Sciences, Psychology, Visual and Performing Arts

Cited tuition costs exclude room and board and books.

Located within a short distance from boutique shopping, world-class dining, and the Owings Mills Metro Station, the Marriott Owings Mills Metro Centre hotel is the perfect gateway to the mid-Atlantic. This new property features 229 guestrooms and suites, a modern American restaurant “The Tillery,” a full-service Starbucks Cafe, and 15,000 square feet of meeting space. Marriott Owings Mills Metro Centre is a 30-minute drive from downtown Baltimore, and an hour drive from historic Gettysburg, and from the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. 

“We are thrilled to open the doors of Marriott Owings Mills, offering a premium elevated experience that speaks to the needs of today’s traveler,” said Ashlyn Pulvermiller, general manager. “Our offerings and location will make it the ideal place for locals to go for a meal, plan an event, or go on a staycation, as well as offering a premier solution for guests who are visiting Owings Mills and the Baltimore area. We look forward to helping bring even more buzz and excitement to the Metro Centre area and being a part of the community.” 

Guestrooms at Marriott Owings Mills Metro Centre will offer a spacious and modern look, complete with locally inspired accents to offer a sense of place. Additionally, through a first-of-its-kind partnership with Marriott Hotels and TED, guests will have access to specially curated in-room content to enjoy from the comfort of their bed. The hotel will also feature the brand’s signature Greatroom lobby, a stylish hub of the property that serves as a great social gathering place for both day and night. Along with the Greatroom, The M Club Lounge offers Marriott Bonvoy Elite and Club paying members an exclusive area with perks, including a range of complimentary food and beverage options featuring hot breakfast, evening drinks and hors d’oeuvres, and premium beverages throughout the day. Accessible 24 hours a day, seven days a week, the space will feature communal tables and seating areas surrounding a cozy fireplace. 

Guests and locals can dine at The Tillery, a full-service upscale American restaurant and bar that will bring a modern and intimate dining experience. The dining destination will provide a high-quality selection of food and beverage options with both indoor and outdoor seating along with a fire pit. The Tillery’s menu will have a variety of cocktails and bites that will be created with local honey and lavender from Honey House, which is near the hotel. The Tillery will be open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and will be a perfect destination for date nights, happy hours, or meals with friends or family. There will also be a private dining room with the ability to host up to 100 people. 

A full-service Starbucks Café will be open daily to serve both the guests of the hotel and the local community. 

Marriott Owings Mills’ Next Gen Meeting Space is tailored to foster collaboration. All meeting spaces are designed to adapt to a variety of formats and group sizes, with pivotable walls, moveable partitions, soft seating, and modular furniture to ensure every team’s meeting space is tailored to their needs. Several of the hotel’s event spaces offer guests a private outdoor area, perfect for pre-functions and social gatherings and ideal for weddings, meetings, and conferences. The hotel will also feature state-of-the-art audio-visual equipment for an enhanced event experience. 

Additionally, the hotel will have a 24-hour upscale fitness center with cardio equipment and free weights. Guests can enjoy a drive through the rolling hills of nearby equestrian country, experience more than 13 local golf clubs, and easy access to outdoor activities at area nature centers, parks, and reservoirs. 

www.marriottowingsmills.com

www.thetilleryowingsmills.com

Facebook: @MarriottOwingsMills

Instagram: @MarriottOwingsMills 

Each season in Cumberland Valley promises an endless variety of experiences for the ideal Weekend Easy getaway, but this region really shines in the fall when you can plan a colorful escape filled with festivals, food, fun, and more. Whether you are traveling as a couple or with family or friends, you can dine, play, explore and discover the perfect place to get away from it all. So grab your jacket, put on your walking shoes, and enjoy the warm days and comfortably cool nights in the quiet, natural beauty of south-central Pennsylvania—just a short 1.5-hour drive from Baltimore. Your weekend is waiting for you.

Cumberland Valley Beer Trail

Tap, tour, and try a pint along the Cumberland Valley Beer Trail, where you can experience the unique flavors of locally crafted beers, wines, ciders, and spirits at more than 20 locations. Sign up for a free digital passport, check in at participating locations, and start earning prizes. You will be impressed with the year-round seasonal releases, but for many, fall is the best time to enjoy some fantastic pours.

This weekend is about you, so choose your locations based on your tastes and preferences: Dine inside or outdoors, try a new beer style, or order distilled spirits instead, listen to live music, or find a quiet, intimate location for two; or enjoy a Sunday brunch or a post-hike happy hour.

Hook & Flask

Outdoor Recreation

Whether you are an experienced hiker or biker or just starting out, discover and explore Cumberland Valley’s more than 200 miles of scenic trails, including the iconic Appalachian Trail.

Sweater weather makes hiking even better. Seek out solitude and serenity as you meander along trails glowing with dazzling fall foliage colors or try a more challenging hike where you will be rewarded with spectacular panoramic views of the Cumberland Valley.  Whatever trail you choose, you will be whisked away from buzzing electronics and mundane to-do lists and into wide-open spaces that will elicit plenty of “oohs” and “aahs.”

Appalachian Trail

Fall Fun

Cumberland Valley is a year-round destination for an eclectic mix of seasonal festivals and events, but it outdoes itself in the fall when you can celebrate the bounty of the season mixed with food, drinks, entertainment, and fine arts. As you stroll around downtowns filled with boutique shops and the palate-pleasing cuisine of local restaurants, you might find a juried craft festival or a Halloween-themed celebration. A visit to some of our local parks or attractions will put you in the center of festivals focused on pumpkins, apples, and sunflowers.

Mid-to-late October is the perfect time of year to experience the dazzling fall foliage in Cumberland Valley with a driving tour of Instagram-worthy locations that covers 102 miles of picturesque country roads brimming with beautiful colors. As you cruise the back roads, turn up the radio, roll down the windows, and take in the natural beauty of a serene and stunning landscape. Along the way, you’ll see evidence of Cumberland Valley’s strong agricultural tradition. Stop at roadside stands for seasonal fresh-picked produce or head to a farm market where you can pick your own apples or pumpkins, take a hayride, and roam through a corn maze. 

Fall Furnace Festival

Places to Stay

Cumberland Valley’s hotels fit every style and budget. From luxurious lodging to comfortable and conveniently located brand hotels, to intimate and unique bed and breakfasts, your accommodations promise a perfect home base for your getaway. 

Plan Your Trip

Order a copy of the free Cumberland Valley Visitors Guide to help you plan your trip. Once you arrive, pick up free brochures, maps, and guides, or get suggestions from friendly and knowledgeable staff at the Cumberland Valley Visitors Center.

What are you waiting for? Your Weekend Easy adventure awaits. The hardest part is returning home.

Poor Delaware. The “First State” has long had a rather lukewarm rap, with its intrigue for tourists perhaps most memorably captured in 1992’s Wayne’s World, where the boys sum up the excitement of various states. “Delaware!” exclaims Wayne with a puzzled look. “Hi…I’m in…Delaware…”

But Maryland’s tiny neighbor is actually a small wonder—once the state’s actual nickname—and one that’s likely to soon be discovered, thanks in part to the hometown pride of America’s 46th president, Joe Biden.

“I am proud,” said Biden, before departing for his inauguration in January. “Proud, proud, proud to be a son of Delaware.”

Less than an hour’s drive to the state line from Baltimore, Delaware is much more than just the 20 miles of I-95 you drive through on the way to Pennsylvania.

The second-smallest state—actually part of Maryland for some 50 years in the 1600s—features plenty of reasons to visit, from college-town charm to metropolitan buzz to a long, winding portion of the Delmarva peninsula that provides ample access to some of the best beaches on the Atlantic Coast.

So pack up the car, or purchase a train ticket. Of course, ice cream is encouraged along the way.

→ CITY CENTER

For many, a trip to Delaware begins and ends at the old Amtrak station on the edge of the Christina River in downtown Wilmington.

Built in 1907, the majestic brick building has become most famous for one particular passenger, “Amtrak Joe,” as he came to be known, with Biden using the railroad as his primary form of transportation to and from Washington, D.C., during his decades as a senator and eventually vice president—so much so that they named the station in his honor.

But the short ride from Baltimore’s Penn Station only takes 45 minutes, with impressive views over the Susquehanna River to boot. On our last visit, we detrained onto one of the old, un-remodeled platforms, fit with vintage tile floors, long wooden benches, and a chandeliered ceiling—a glimpse into the golden age of American travel.

Wilmington—the state’s largest city, with a population of 70,000—is also a mix of past and present, grit and gumption, with a revitalizing waterfront and bustling business district featuring renowned restaurants and striking architecture spanning the centuries.

Market Street is the main thoroughfare, where hallowed venues like the Grand Opera House and the Queen, a block over, offer post-COVID concerts in historic settings. The nearby Hotel DuPont is an iconic structure, Wilmington’s first skyscraper circa 1913, where luxury suites and a stunning Versailles-like ballroom mark the legacy of its namesake family—the Rockefellers of Delaware.

While you’re downtown, consider dinner at James Beard Award semi-finalist (and Biden favorite) Bardea, which offers innovative Italian fare, followed by craft cocktails at Merchant Bar. For breakfast, find a locally roasted coffee at one of Brew Haha!’s beloved quirky cafes, then try lunch at El Diablo Burritos for tortillas stuffed with braised short-rib or citrus-seared mahi, before burning it all off at the riverfront.

The Christina River, a tributary of the larger Delaware River, runs along the southern edge of the city, and has served as the lifeblood of its recent renaissance. A 1.3-mile promenade follows the water, with access to several picturesque detours, like the Jack A. Markell Trail or the Russell W. Peterson Urban Wildlife Refuge, that cut through verdant marshland, as well as attractions like the Delaware Children’s Museum, an interactive learn-and-play space for kids, or Frawley Stadium, the home field of the minor league Blue Rocks baseball team.

Perhaps the neighborhood’s best-kept secret, though, is the Delaware Contemporary, a leading visual arts museum, which recently exhibited large-scale works by Baltimore’s own Theresa Chromati.

Before you move on, take a short drive north into the Brandywine Valley to walk the magnificent gardens of the Nemours Estate or Winterthur Museum, home to late du Ponts, or sleep stylishly at the Inn at Montchanin Village, with its luxe countryside spa and accompanying eatery, Krazy Kat’s, which serves up brunch among oil paintings of noble felines.

But don’t overlook the no-frills fare at Charcoal Pit on Concord Pike, a classic 1950s burger joint known for its homemade milkshakes, where pictures of Joe and Barack Obama hang on the walls. Even still, there’s always a sub at Capriotti’s, launched in Wilmington in 1976, and dubbed by Biden “the best sandwich in America.”

→ SCHOOL SPIRIT

Biden might be the University of Delaware’s most famous alum, but he’s followed closely by Joe Flacco, who played college football there before joining the Ravens in 2008. Football games are still a big lure for sports-lovers across the state, who flock to the Newark campus, where boisterous tailgate parties take place in the stadium’s parking lot. The team’s Colonial Athletic Association affiliation also faces them off against the likes of our own Towson University.

About 20 minutes south of Wilmington, not far from the Maryland line, the school’s home base is a quaint and classic college town. The campus’ lush, central green is surrounded by Georgian classroom buildings, and its leafy downtown is studded with local boutiques and bistros, typically bustling with students and professors in a non-COVID year.

Amble down Main Street for a vinyl treasure trove at Rainbow Records, cute home goods and gifts at Grassroots, and all the Delaware swag you could possibly dream of at the National 5 & 10.

For locally made brews, try Iron Hill Brewery for regional classics, or the small-batch, experimental suds of the more recently opened Autumn Archer Beer Project. Follow them with creative vegetarian fare at Home Grown Café or homemade pastas at Caffe Gelato. Just save room for dessert at the on-campus UD Creamery, which sells ice cream made with the milk of cows cared for by the schools’ College of Agriculture and Natural Resources.

For more scenic recreation, head 10 minutes north of town to White Clay Creek State Park, a sprawling greenspace for freshwater fishing, hiking, biking, and birding in a woodland setting, best accompanied by a copy of The Delaware Naturalist Handbook, written by UD professor and Baltimore resident McKay Jenkins.

While you’re up there, we recommend a quick hop into Pennsylvania for two of our top regional attractions: Longwood Gardens, featuring more than a thousand acres of botanical wonders, and the Brandywine River Museum of Art, home to an impressive collection of works by N.C. and Andrew Wyeth.

→ DOWNY OCEAN

Of course, many Marylanders have already spent a fair amount of time in Delaware, drawn to the several sandy beach towns that are located an hour and a half south of Newark and Wilmington down Route 1, or two hours from Baltimore across the Bay Bridge.

There’s Bethany, Fenwick, and Dewey, but Rehoboth is undoubtedly the most popular destination, with its nostalgic boardwalk and family-friendly shops without the hubub of nearby Ocean City. It was nicknamed “the Nation’s Summer Capital” in the 1920s, when newly paved roads opened the community to D.C. residents, and, today, Biden owns a beach house there, making it likely the next presidential Hyannis Port or Mar-a-Lago.

Unsurprisingly, the beachside boutiques are now filled with Biden swag, from candles to coffee mugs, and a scramble down Rehoboth Avenue toward the mile-long boardwalk to snag your own is a requisite. Along the way, swing into Browseabout Books, an independent stalwart with more than 35,000 titles, and Ryan’s Surf Shop, a circa-1961 spot for beach gear and boogie boards (not to mention a round of mini golf on the roof upstairs).

But we all know the reason we come to the beach: the junk food—from pizza slices, via Grotto’s, a go-to local chain born in Rehoboth, or Nicola, a seminal pie palace since 1971, to ice cream cones, be it frozen custard at Kohr Brothers or hand-dipped scoops at the Royal Treat. Road snacks abound for the ride home, too, at Dolles (saltwater taffy), Fisher’s (Old Bay caramel popcorn), and Thrasher’s (with vinegar, duh).

For a sit-down meal, a seat at the bar at Henlopen City Oyster House is our go-to for craft beers, fresh-shucked shellfish, and the best fried clams we’ve had. But don’t roll out of town without a spin in the teacups at Funland (preferably before you eat).

If we had our druthers, we’d spend most of the time in lesser-known Lewes, a cozy hamlet near the Tangier Outlets (tax-free shopping!) where the Delaware River meets the Atlantic Ocean.

Somehow, thus far, the little historic downtown has remained largely untouched by the kitschy commercialization of its touristy neighbors, and is mostly frequented by local residents and weekenders passing through on their way to or from the Cape May-Lewes Ferry. Visit the Station on Kings as you head into town for farm chic home goods and decadent desserts, as well as the Historic Lewes Farmers Market on Saturday mornings, considered one of the best on the peninsula.

In town, make a dinner reservation at the adorably decorated James Beard semifinalist Heirloom before dropping your bags at the hip Dogfish Head Inn. (Or your tent at the Cape Henlopen State Park, one the Mid-Atlantic’s best-kept-secret campgrounds, with plenty of nature—particularly along the Junction & Breakwater Trail—for non-campers to also enjoy.)

But back to Dogfish Head, because no trip would be complete without a final pit stop at this king of craft beer, with the Wonka-like brewery and tasting room just 15 minutes from Lewes, founded by local beer wizard Sam Calagione in 1995. Order one of their dozens of exclusive pints, lean back on their outdoor patio, and raise a glass to Delaware. Small Wonder, indeed.

→ DENTON, MD

Drive time: 1 hr., 15 mins.

If you’ve only buzzed by en route to a Delmarva beach, you owe yourself a stop in this revitalized Eastern Shore community. Denton straddles the Choptank River, the Eastern Shore’s longest tributary and among its most scenic. Get acquainted with local attractions and history at the Wharves of Choptank Visitor and Heritage Center. Perched on pilings above the water, the facility is an information and recreation hub. Watch soaring ospreys and eagles from observation decks. Launch a kayak or cast a line for bass and catfish.

Don’t miss the photomurals at the base ofthe Choptank River Bridge (Business Route 404), which depict the town when steamboats cruised on roundtrips to Baltimore.

After orientation, head downtown to enjoy a juicy Guinness burger and a pint of Irish ale at the Market Street Public House, a popular local tavern. From there, it’s a short walk to Denton’s flourishing Artsway, a multi-block cultural and shopping nexus spurred by the restoration of one of the oldest houses in town. Now, respectively, The Foundry and the Fiber Arts Center of the Eastern Shore, the galleries sell the works of local artists, artisans, and quilt-makers. The large, hand-painted blocks that adorn neighborhood buildings mark waypoints on the Byway Quilt Trail, a public art project and history lesson complementing the region’s Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad Byway. At day’s end, visit Harry’s for “Harry Hour” specialty cocktails and Gallic-inspired entrees.

→ HANCOCK, MD

Drive time: 1 hr., 30 mins

After the pandemic struck, this Western Maryland community saw an uptick in visitor traffic—of the two-wheeled type. Nicknamed “Trail Town,” Hancock is a popular stop along the C&O Canal Towpath and the Western Maryland Rail Trail, which pass through to the south (towpath) and north (trail).

The primary visitor attraction remains the C&O towpath. Here, discover picturesque vestiges of its 19th-century past. Round Top Cement Mill, whose abandoned kilns peer vacantly from a rocky hillside, literally supplied the U.S. Capitol’s foundation. Tonoloway Aqueduct, now waterless and vine-clad, once carried canal boats across Tonoloway Creek. Bowles House, an early farmhouse, conveys lore as a National Park Service museum and the town’s official visitor center.

Rent a bike at C&O Bicycle to explore the earthen towpath or the more cyclist-friendly paved rail trail. The shop’s owners suggest that rail-trailers head west, where the scenery— like the Paw Paw Tunnel’s majestic maw—is stunning and visitor traffic is sparser. The shop will shuttle customers and bikes as far as Pittsburgh or Washington, D.C., to access different sections.

Satisfy your post-hiking and biking hunger at Buddy Lou’s Eats Drinks & Antiques, where locally sourced ingredients meet comforting cuisine in dishes such as spiced duck breast salad and savory truffle fries. Sample local favorites like the steak and cheese sub at Triangle Restaurant and hand-dipped ice cream cones and sundaes at Fractured Banana. Or take dessert home—Blue Goose Market sells more than two-dozen varieties of luscious house-baked pies.

→ MOUNT GRETNA, PA

We never thought we’d say these words, but Lancaster, Pennsylvania, is having a moment right now. Known for so long as “the place with the Amish buggies,” this city, located in the hilly commonwealth countryside (and only a quick hour-and-a-half drive from Baltimore), has recently emerged with its own personality. And it’s a surprisingly hip one.

Surprising because, well, it’s just so dang old. Lancaster—one of the oldest inland cities in the United States—was settled in 1709 by German immigrants known as the Pennsylvania Dutch. It officially became Lancaster 20 years later, when a British citizen named it after his hometown in England. (Locally, Lancaster is pronounced “lank-iss-tr” not “lan-kast-r.”) It even served as the nation’s capital for exactly one day during the Revolutionary War—September 27, 1777.

Today, the Lancaster Central Market—open Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays—is the heart of the city and its revival. Around since 1730, it’s the oldest continuously run public farmers’ market in the country. On one fall afternoon, post-yoga women peruse French breakfast radishes at Groff’s vegetable stand. Kids chow down on whoopie pies, a cakey cream-filled chocolate treat that originated in Lancaster County, and retirees shop the long aisles, illuminated by skylights overhead. There’s something for everyone—African cuisine, Cuban sandwiches, aged goat cheese, and more herbs and grains than you could use in a lifetime—a fusion of old and new.

That seems to be what Lancaster has done so well—hold on to tradition (Mennonite men in their straw hats and beards selling butchered meats) while embracing innovation and the future (countless boutiques and a restaurant scene The New York Times called “a global feast in an unlikely spot.”) And while you might head home and start Googling condos in The Lancaster Press Building (it’s a four-minute walk to the market), an even better idea might be a day trip or an overnighter in a place that’s easily walkable and pleasant in all seasons (albeit a bit nippy in winter—pack accordingly).

→ EAT

Lancaster’s food scene has grown into more than just the chicken pot pies and apple dumplings of the Pennsylvania Dutch.

To start the day, Commonwealth on Queen is a go-to for brunch, with a menu overflowing with toasts, though the real star is a smoked salmon and arugula eggs Benedict. Similarly, the Bistro Barberet & Bakery, owned by former Le Bec-Fin executive pastry chef Cedric Barberet, features a lovely bistro menu, but its standout is the bakery, brimming with all the favorites: crème brulée, tiramisu, tarts, macarons, croissants, and eclairs indulgently filled with vanilla, pistachio, and dark chocolate cream.

We’re partial to Max’s Eatery, too, a foodie’s diner that’s perfect for kids. Breakfast is served all day, and even as an adult, it’s amazing how magical a cereal bar with unlimited refills of Fruit Loops and Lucky Charms sounds.

That being said, if you want to spend less time eating and more time taking in the sights, swing by Silantra Asian Street Kitchen for fast-casual Chinese that’s also family-friendly. Think Chipotle but with scallion burritos and sides like shrimp chips with sweet chili sauce and sweet potato fries with wasabi mayo.

After a blustery afternoon, head indoors to Luca for a rustic Italian dinner featuring the likes of bruschetta with handmade burrata and local figs, pappardelle with pork ragu and smoked buttermilk, and their famous wood-fired pizza with spicy tomato sauce, shaved garlic, soppressata, mozzarella, and hot honey. (They’ve also adopted the “Living Wage” initiative to bring equality to kitchen staffs, with a small service charge applied to all food purchases for the back-of-house employees.)

Lancaster holds on to tradition while embracing innovation and the future.

→ DRINK

These days, when it comes to measuring a town’s hipness, there may be no better way to judge than by its coffee shops. And Passenger Coffee & Tea’s King Street cafe—located less than a mile from their roastery—gets a perfect score. The coffee, made by baristas who have mastered the craft, is as smooth as the simplistic décor: wooden benches with soft leather backings, white walls, penny-round floors. And while we could sit and people-watch all day from the shared courtyard with the market—there’s wandering to do.

Ask an Irishman his favorite bar and you know it’s always going to be good. Tellus360 did not disappoint, with its notable selection of whiskeys, beers, and local craft brews, not to mention a super impressive 10,000-square-foot green roof with actual lush gardens as part of an ongoing attempt to reduce storm water runoff in Lancaster. (You’ll have to go back in the spring for that, of course, though currently it’s an après-ski bar, complete with fireplaces to keep guests warm and cozy.)

Just a short walk from downtown, Thistle Finch Distillery is located in the former Walter Schnader Tobacco Warehouse. Tours run on Saturdays and Sundays, giving patrons a chance to taste the small-batch whiskey, gin, and vodka made with locally sourced grains in their custom copper pot still. They mix a mean cocktail, too.

If you like your drinks with a side of amusement, you have to hit Decades, a six-lane bowling alley and arcade with a full bar. Inside the historic Stahr Armory, the 80-year-old, 15,000-square-foot gymnasium—which looks like a beer hall and a roller-skating rink had a baby—is SkeeBall, Donkey Kong, Ms. Pacman, Frogger, and Centipede (among a ton of other retro games), as well as lanes of ten-pin that are first-come first-served. Both the beer and cocktail offerings are strong; this time of year, try the “Double Agent,” made with aperol and vermouth, topped with hefeweizen beer and garnished with orange and clove.

→ SHOP

One of the reasons Lancaster has been compared to Brooklyn is its independent shops that speckle the streets, from the stellar Mr. Suit Records vinyl shop to Sweetish Candy, a store that sells—you guessed it—only Swedish candy, to the super popular Foxduck boutique with its locally designed and ethically made apparel that highlights the city. Meanwhile, Ellicott & Co. is a little like the handsome guy you still think about from college—smells good, looks good, and knows how to use a cast-iron skillet; tucked into a side street, this men’s store is packed full of American-made apparel, accessories, and home goods. Mark your calendar, as many of the 200-plus boutiques stay open late on December 12 for extra holiday shopping.

But is it really a trip to Lancaster if you don’t stop by Building Character, a marketplace with 70-plus independent shops selling vintage, recycled, and handmade items like locally made jewelry, furniture, artwork, and lots of postcards and photographs that walk the line between old-fashioned and creepy? And a block away, its sister store, Madcap & Co., has an impressive selection of locally made items, too, from mugs and coasters to candles and cards to plants and penny candy. It’s easy to spend a good hour inside, convincing yourself you do need a tote bag that says, “Lancaster is fricking awesome,” cheekily attributed to James Buchanan, the 15th U.S. president.

→ DO & SEE

Speaking of Buchanan, who is historically considered one of the worst presidents ever, you can visit Wheatland, his 1828 Federal-style house, right outside the city. Just take your time getting there—Buchanan Avenue, President Avenue, and Marietta Avenue are full of gorgeous houses that are fun to gawk at. Tours are led by knowledgeable guides in period costumes. Yuletide at Wheatland is a particularly stunning time to visit, with rooms overflowing with Christmas décor, plus festive music and games.

If your kids grew up going to Dutch Wonderland, introduce them to the Lancaster Science Factory. It’s a small museum (which just underwent an expansion) where kids can explore science, engineering, and technology with hands-on displays. The Clair Brothers, a local live touring production company—they’ve done sound for artists including the likes of Elton John and Metallica—sponsored a stage at the museum complete with sound and lighting elements for the kids to experiment with. On top of that, if you have a Maryland Science Center membership, admission is free.

It’s a town that seems to have a kinship with Baltimore: lots of history and quirkiness.

If you can, plan your trip around a show at the Fulton—it’s the oldest working theater in America and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1964. The building itself stands on the foundation of Lancaster’s pre-Revolutionary jail, and the exterior wall of the prison courtyard is now the theater’s back wall. Erected in 1852, it was designed by the renowned Philadelphia architect Samuel Sloan to serve as a community center for meetings, lectures, concerts, and theatrical performances.

→ STAY

Although Lancaster is a pretty straight shot up 83 (with a gorgeous drive over the mighty Susquehanna River), staying over is always a great option, especially with top-notch lodgings including the Lancaster Arts Hotel, an industrial, art-heavy lodge located in a former warehouse, and the Cork Factory Hotel with its stylish rooms in a building that once housed the historic Armstrong Cork & Kerr Glass companies. If you spend the night, you can pop over to the Kitchen Kettle Village—a 20-minute drive from downtown—for loads of Pennsylvania Dutch treats and goods (jams, relishes, quilts) that happen to make great gifts. And they do it right for the holidays, too—Christmas lights, caroling, and s’mores.

But no matter the season, it’s easy to fall in love with Lancaster—and not just because of the whoopie pies. It’s a town that seems to have a kinship with Baltimore: lots of history, quirkiness, independent shops, great restaurants, love of markets. It’s the kind of place you leave and then immediately start planning your next trip to. In fact, we’ve already been back twice.

What can we say? Iceland is hot these days. Scrolling through Instagram, you’ve likely come across images of the Nordic island’s dramatic sights: marvels of volcanic landscapes, massive aqua-tinged glaciers, explosively spewing geysers, plummeting waterfalls, and snow-streaked craggy peaks. It’s easy to be seduced by the spectacular natural phenomena populating this island country. Here, a wealth of natural and cultural treasures compete for your attention when you drive the famous Ring Road, a slim 800-mile loop that circumnavigates the country. Many visitors use the snug, sophisticated capital, Reykjavík, as a home base for day trips or to quickly depart in favor of a more rural setting, but each region has a unique personality worth experiencing.

This time of year, the Northern Lights are not visible, but summer does bring endless days (albeit cool ones, ranging from the 40s to the 60s in Fahrenheit with some sporadic winds and rain) and all the more hours of sunlight to explore with.

Best of all, your entrée to this stunning landscape is a less than six-hour flight from Baltimore and Washington, D.C. Sure, Wow Air might have gone under, but you can still immerse yourself in this world-away with affordable flights via Iceland Air, both direct and with layovers. We’ve broken down three distinct regions in and around Reykjavík to help you get started.

RENDEZVOUS IN REYJAVÍK

Just a short drive from the Keflavik International Airport, the capital city feels like a picturesque village in many ways—peppered with pastel facades and in close proximity to snow-coated mountains and teal seas. But that quaintness belies Reykjavík’s urban sophistication, awash in hip coffee shops, contemporary art galleries, and restaurants helmed by world-class chefs.

Start with a jaunt around this walkable mini metropolis to admire its bountiful history and architecture. Modern designs abound from the futuristic Ásmundarsafn sculpture museum, featuring massive figurative and abstract works by famed sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson, to the Nordic House art institution, designed by Finnish modernist architect Alvar Aalto and featuring a regular roster of exhibitions by Nordic notables.

For al fresco attractions, circle “The Pond,” aka Lake Tjörnin, an enchanting landmark with benches to idle on and colorful old houses to ogle. You can also walk or bike toward the Grótta Lighthouse on a paved trail along the city’s waterfront toward the Atlantic Ocean. At low tide, step across a sandbank to the rocky islet that leads to a nature reserve (though it’s off limits until July 15 due to nesting migratory birds).

Wherever you wander, Hallgrímskirkja towers over the capital, and this unusually shaped church is a sight to be seen, soaring almost 250 feet in the air. For the best views of the city, buy a ticket and take the crowded elevator to the top.

But even as the urban epicenter, Reykjavík is never far from natural wonders. The outdoor Reykjavík Botanical Garden boasts numerous paths through the wild diversity of Icelandic flora. For something more scenic, take a 10-minute ferry to Viðey Island, a stamp-size island with sweeping shorelines where you can bike or hike past old stone walls and centuries-old foundations.

Farther afield, there’s good reason why the Golden Circle tour is on everyone’s must-see list. On this day trip, you’ll explore such striking sights as the fissured plain of Thingvellir National Park, the spewing Strokkur geyser next to the dormant Geysir in a sulfur-suffused geothermal valley, and the thunderous, bi-level Gullfoss waterfall.

Meanwhile, Icelandic cuisine is an unexpected assortment of traditional dishes and delicacies (think horse steaks, smoked puffin, and fermented shark). If you’re feeling adventurous, try them all, but Reykjavík is also replete with creative cuisine for out-of-towners with weaker stomachs.

Lines form early in the morning at Braud & Co., an artisanal bakery with beautiful breads, buns, and pastries. For a more substantial first meal, start with daily breakfast and brunch at Bergsson Mathús, featuring locally sourced ingredients and inspired accompaniments like Icelandic butter. Whatever the hour, don’t leave without visiting Baejarins Beztu Pylsur, a 1930s red-and-white hotdog stand, with the signature dish best eaten with raw and fried onions, sweet mustard, rémoulade, and local ketchup. For lunch, the Grandi Mathöll food hall is a popular hangout located in a spacious old fish market on the edge of the harbor and filled with vendors of every cuisine. For something less crowded, The Coocoo’s Nest is a family-owned waterfront restaurant down the street with a whimsical interior and an ever-changing menu.

Come evening, treat yourself to a tipple at Micro Bar, where there are too many Icelandic beers to count. Wine lovers will want to find Port 9 for evening jazz and fine vintages by the glass. Raise one and skål (aka “cheers” in Icelandic).

After a few, find your way home to one of the city’s chic, boutique lodgings, like the hip Kex Hostel with vintage décor and bay-view private rooms. Hotel Reykjavík Centrum, situated on one of the oldest city streets, with an especially appealing and sunny contemporary junior suite. See also their seaside Fosshotel Baron for a mid-century modern aesthetic.

THE WILD WESTFJORDS

While the Westfjords feel like a world away from the capital city, it’s only a two-hour drive to its edge from Reykjavík. This wild, remote region is the least visited by tourists each year, but we recommend getting to know the hidden gem for its dramatic sea cliffs, unparalleled birdwatching, and scenic solitude. Start on Route 60, then 61, heading north toward the largest town on the peninsula, Ísafjörur, a true and tiny fisherman’s village that dates back to the ninth century. Eventually, these roads circle the entire region, but in driving your rental car anywhere in Iceland, be prepared for the errant herd of sheep or team of wild horses.

For a quick introduction to the region, head to the town’s harbor and wander through the Westfjords Heritage Museum. Here you’ll get a history lesson on its nautical heritage through artifacts of Icelandic watermen. In nearby Súavík, the Arctic Fox Centre is dedicated to Iceland’s only native land mammal. Sign up for a private tour to see them in the wild.

For more animal sights, a short boat ride from Ísafjörur takes place daily to transport you to Vigur island to view the region’s abundant bird life, such as puffins, eiders, guillemots, and terns. You can also cruise to the untouched Hornstrandir Nature Reserve to walk the verdant landscape, admire the colossal sea cliffs, and view its Arctic flora. Further southwest down 60, pull off and park for a scenic 15-minute hike to the breathtaking Dynjandi waterfall, the largest of its kind in the Westfjords at 300 feet. Two hours onward, you’ll also come to the westernmost point of Iceland, Látrabjarg, one of Europe’s biggest bird cliffs and home to countless waterfowl. It’s a great spot for any budding birdwatcher or wildlife photographer.

In this region, restaurants are few and far between, but the ones that do exist are worth the excursion. For example, one might not expect to find pizza on this Nordic neck, but upon entering Westfjords, you’ll stumble upon Café Riis in Hólmavík, a cozy pizzeria with seafood pies featured in The New York Times. If you’ve set up shop in Ísafjörur, your destination is Tjöruhúsið, a rustic 18th-century barn noted for its fresh-caught fish in a pan. If they’re available, trust us and try the tender cod gellur. If you’re heading around the ring, Fisherman Kitchen in the small village of Suureyri is a must for local sourcing, maritime-focused day tours, and its onsite hotel. Forty-five minutes down the road, Simbahöllin in Thingeyri boasts a small comfort food menu, walls hung with works by local artists, and horse and bike tours of the surrounding valleys.

Again, lodging options are limited, but a few decent spots do exist, like the pastoral Heydalur on the way to Ísafjörur with outdoor geothermal springs or, 20 minutes past the town, the simple suites of the aforementioned Fisherman Hotel. A fair drive farther south, the Fosshotel Westfjords outside of Patreksfjörur, run by Íslandshótel, has more modern suites and mesmerizing waterfront views. Heading back to Reykjavík, you can also stay at the Fosshotel Reykholt in Borgarfjörur—the trendiest, chicest option around.

THE SCENIC SOUTH COAST

The South Coast is revered for its diverse natural environments, ranging from breathtaking beaches to towering mountains to age-old glaciers. With all that, it’s no wonder it’s one of the most visited regions in the country. From Reykjavík, head southeast down Route 1 and onward to the great outdoors.

On your way east, you’ll find a few places to pull off for some of the country’s most phenomenal waterfalls, like the sky-high Seljalandsfoss, the secluded Gljúfrabúi, or the majestic Skógafoss. Before long, you’ll also stumble upon access points to massive Arctic ice sheets, like the Sólheimajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers. Book guided tours for off-the-beaten-path sights such as ice caves and crevices amidst a bright blue backdrop.

Continuing along, you’ll find yourself on the Dyrhólaey peninsula in the village of Vík. Explore both the higher and lower levels of this scenic promontory along jet-black sand beaches toward the nearly 400-foot-high archway in the sea. Be on the lookout for puffins and seals.

If you don’t mind the drive, or plan to follow the entire Ring Road, Route 1 will take you to the Eastern Region as well, which has continued natural beauty of its own design, with vast frozen deltas, jagged mountains, and even more mesmerizing shorelines. Diamond Beach is aptly named, given the dazzling iceberg remains that litter the beach. They’ve washed up on shore from the nearby Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon, which you can visit up close via boat tour.

Heading back west, stop into the tucked-away oasis of Seljavallalaug for a warmer dip. Locals love their outdoor swimming pools, and this is one of the oldest, set in the lush green hillside like it’s been there forever.

Out here in the wide open, you can find both stylish hotels and eclectic Airbnbs. Our favorite might be the Magma Hotel, an hour east of Vík, situated on a lake with Nordic-chic design, private patios, and in-room Marshall stereos. Similarly, the Brú Guesthouse, heading back west in Hvolsvöllur, features mini modern homes with cozy living areas and great windows for spotting wildlife. In the same town, for something slightly fancier, the Skálakot Manor Hotel is the lap of luxury on a fourth-generation farm with tufted armchairs, clawfoot bathtubs, and horseback riding tours. Just outside of Selfoss, the Frost & Fire Boutique Hotel also offers a luxe experience, with beautifully appointed rooms, outdoor spa facilities, surrounding hot springs, and a renowned restaurant that celebrates Icelandic geothermal cooking.

In addition to Frost & Fire’s Restaurant Varma, there are some incredible dining experiences to be had on the South Coast. Perhaps the most memorable is a 35-minute ferry ride off the coast of Hvolsvöllur to the volcanic Westman Islands. Following the slow food movement, Slippurinn in Vestmannaeyjabær utilizes fresh seafood, foraged herbs, and thoughtful recipes. Just book your ferry early, as it fills up fast in the warm months. Other eateries worth a visit in town are Gott, for fun, funky bites, and Fiskibarinn, for traditional fish stews. Back on the mainland in Selfoss, Tryggvaskáli is a warm and welcoming fine-dining restaurant with farm-to-table dishes. A quick detour from there toward the ocean will also take you to Fjöruborðið, a down-home spot renowned for its langoustine, aka Norway lobster.

In the end, fear not all the unfamiliar orthography—most in Iceland do speak English. But whatever region you choose, be sure to fully immerse yourself in the local culture. While this Nordic country is only a short flight from Baltimore, it truly is a world away.

Although Brian Oliver graduated from Towson University with a degree in political science, he knew that a career in law was not in his future. He wanted to do more than just read over documents and sit in courtrooms all day.

He was always interested in traveling the world but he found himself constantly waiting for his friends to jump on board. Oliver got to a point where he realized that if he sat around waiting for other people, he would never go.

“I decided to just take that leap,” he said of his first trip to London. “Once I ended up going alone that first time, I was like, oh I’m good. I can do this.”

Since that realization, Oliver has traveled to 48 countries, 25 states, and has shown no signs of slowing down. His goal is to live a very full, and well-traveled, life while helping others in Baltimore to do the same.

To fund his travels, the 33-year-old has a pretty unorthodox day job working at the family business, Howell Funeral Home, in West Baltimore.

“I live the way I do because I’m surrounded by death every day,” he said. “You want to live. You read people’s obituaries and they never did anything. I really want to live my life to the fullest.”

Around Thanksgiving of 2015, as he was en route back to his Ashburton home from Thailand, Oliver started thinking about how he could expand upon his travels by helping other people. He says while sitting on the airplane, the thought just hit him.

“The word beyond came to me out of nowhere and I started really thinking of the meaning,” he recalled. “A typical person from Baltimore, especially a black man, carries so many stereotypes. I started thinking about going beyond what people think of you and what people expect of you. When you travel, you go beyond your neighborhood, your city, and your state—both mentally and physically.”

And thus birthed Beyond Bmore, an online platform to document his travels and share with the rest of the world how to make it happen for themselves. Through this initiative, he also hopes to help foster a love of new cultures and experiences for the youth in Baltimore and help children in the countries he visits. For example, he’s volunteered at a Kenyan school on his many visits to the country and is currently working on a fundraiser to help them rebuild their school.

“If people can go outside of where you live, it can change your outlook and your mentality of everything,” he said. “I tell people all the time, ‘Every time I go somewhere, I appreciate home so much more.’ We have issues here but I’ve seen some real issues traveling, especially when it comes to poverty, lack of resources. It puts it all into perspective.”

While many of the places Oliver has visited may appear on your bucket list—France, Japan, Egypt, South Africa, Tanzania, Portugal, Hungary, Denmark, Switzerland, Bahrain, and UAE, to name a few—he says that it’s not as difficult to travel to them as we think. By using credit card points, airline miles, and various websites he manages to secure these trips for less than $800 and is very public about how to attain it.

“People ask me for tips and advice, which I don’t mind giving because I want to see all of us travel to different places,” he said. “I go to Secret Flying, The Flight Deal, and Airfare Spot and also follow them on social media so I can stay up to date on their deals. Yesterday, a flight to Nigeria was $600 from D.C. It’s a game changer.”

During his travels he has eaten a scorpion in Thailand, been mistaken for rapper 50 Cent in Egypt, been called a “stolen child” in Kenya—that experience shook him to the core—and has taken a tour of black history in Amsterdam.

“Some of the experiences are so surreal I can’t put it into words,” he said. “I go to these places and when I get back into my room in the evening I’ll just sit there for a minute trying to take it all in.”

Oliver’s travels are taking him to Nigeria in two weeks to participate in a day of service in Lagos and in the new year he plans to travel back to Africa to trace his ancestral roots in Cameroon, Mali, and Benin. He says that his travels have helped him to grow as a person and have changed his life for the better.

“I hope that my experiences will show people that there’s so much more to life than the city you are from,” he said. “Just do it. Get out and see the world. It will change you forever.”

This week, The New York Times released an interactive feature describing 52 cities its readers should visit in 2018. And, wouldn’t you know, our very own Baltimore made the cut at no. 15. Each writeup is short and sweet with a map, some links, and a small sentence describing why the city landed on the list. In our case, it’s because Baltimore “honors an abolitionist and lights up with art.”

“Charm City’s packed cultural calendar is showcasing commemorative events for the 200th birthday of the Maryland-born abolitionist leader Frederick Douglass,” writes Nora Walsh. “Meanwhile, an expanded Light City festival in April will feature light-based art installations and performances in 14 neighborhoods.”

We were particularly heartened that the Times chose to highlight our celebration of Douglass, a figure that we chronicled in our cover story “How Baltimore Invented The Modern World.” (We’ll also be detailing the events surrounding the 200th anniversary in our upcoming February issue.)

The writeup also mentions the eventual opening of Hotel Revival, which we’ve reported is going to cut the ribbon in Mt. Vernon this spring. The swanky new spot will have 107 guest rooms, a street-level restaurant, three karaoke rooms, and a rooftop bar headed by by Chelsea Gregoire.

Baltimore joins an elite list of regions, cities, and entire countries around the world in what the publication calls “a starter kit for escaping.” Rounding out the top three are New Orleans, the country of Colombia, and a southern region of Italy.

To get locals involved, the feature linked to a Facebook thread asking followers to post about their favorite things to do in each region. For Baltimore, the suggestions vary—from tours at  Ft. McHenry to visits at local breweries—and it’s a nice nod to the expertise of local residents.

This isn’t the first time the newspaper has lauded Baltimore and, most recently, in its famed “36 Hours” series, we think writer Nell McShane Wulfhart struck the right chord when she wrote, “The traditional things, like the old-school sheet cake at Lexington Market, remain unchanged, while neighborhoods like Charles Village seem to be opening new bars and restaurants daily.”

She continued: “Charm City has raised the charm quotient considerably in the past few years, managing to retain its quirky appeal as it develops stylish, more upmarket restaurants and hotels.”

Yes, spring has finally sprung and wanderlust has likely set in, but that doesn’t mean you need to fly from Balto to Bora Bora to tame your travel bug. The beauty of living in the Mid-Atlantic is that when you get the urge for a road trip, nothing beats our own environs for exploration. Whether you want to go spelunking at Luray Caverns, peer into Einstein’s brain, or take a pub crawl through Annapolis, consider an excursion to one of these locales—all less than 135 miles or so from Charm City.

ADVENTURE

Billy Goat Trail (Potomac, 48 miles).
Why Go:
Just beyond all the Hill-top hubbub of Washington, D.C., this regional retreat brims with natural beauty. Here, the Potomac River snakes between Maryland and Virginia, serving as a billowing borderline between the states. On the Maryland side, weave your way through Montgomery County’s great outdoors with a web of trails in the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historic Park. From hard hikes to mild meanders, take it easy on the C&O Canal towpath or test yourself on the rugged Billy Goat Trail, a 4.7-mile loop divided into scenic sections of varying difficulty. Life’s short, so we recommend the latter. Don’t Miss: The protected paths boast incredible views of the Potomac River and Mather Gorge and access to the Great Falls Overlook. Trip Tip: Find Billy Goat trailheads along the Clara Barton Parkway, including Great Falls Tavern Visitor Center. 11710 MacArthur Blvd., Potomac, 301-767-3714

Dover International Speedway (Dover, DE, 94 miles).
Why Go:
If you love things that go vroom, you don’t have to drive all the way to Daytona. Simply ride over to the Dover International Speedway, where, on spring and fall race weekends, the 95,500-seat stadium fills with roaring fans and riveting racecars. Don’t Miss: The big NASCAR races—the XFINITY and Sprint Cup Series—fire up their engines May 29 through 31, but beyond the main motorsport events, there’s plenty to do, including test-driving a racecar of your own. You can also head to The Woodlands, 150-plus acres of forested grounds for mega-music festivals, including Firefly, whose talent this year includes Paul McCartney and the Kings of Leon, and the inaugural Big Barrel Country Music Festival, with country superstars like Carrie Underwood. Trip Tip: Plan ahead for heavy traffic on race weekends. 1131 N. Dupont Hwy., Dover, DE, 302-883-6500

Luray Caverns (Luray, VA, 131 miles).
Why Go:
At the turn of the 20th century, the town tinsmith and a few country cronies were looking for a cave in the Shenandoah Valley when they stumbled upon a geological gem beyond their wildest dreams. It was a milky, melting underworld, with 10-story ceilings dripping in tapering stalactites and a Martian desert floor studded with towering stalagmites. Their discovery, now a U.S. Natural Landmark, was more than 400 million years in the making, and is the largest conglomeration of caverns in the American East, still growing one cubic inch every 120 years. Don’t Miss: The main event is Giant’s Hall, cathedral-sized chambers of stone castles that look like Indiana Jones booby traps, but there are other must-do wonders, like the optical illusion of Dream Lake and the haunting, symphonic sounds of the Stalacpipe Organ. Trip Tip: There’s just as much above-ground beauty in this lush valley as there is below. Located along the Blue Ridge Mountains, rolling hills are dotted with cozy towns, serpentine byways, and breathtaking overlooks. 101 Cave Hill Rd., Luray, VA, 540-743-6551

If you love things that go vroom, you don’t have to drive all the way to Daytona.

Skydive Delmarva (Laurel, DE, 105 miles).
Why Go:
Skydive Delmarva instructors are complete pros. They’ve logged thousands of jumps and provide the proper encouragement needed for you to take a leap. If you focus on that and the sweeping scenery of farms, forests, and the Chesapeake Bay, you’ll forget all about that pit in the middle of your stomach. Plus, everything always looks better—even the Indian River PowerPlant—from 13,500 feet up. Best endorsement? Delaware state Senator Brian Pettyjohn flew with them last summer. Don’t Miss: Keep your eyes open: The aerial view of Maryland’s coastline is breathtaking. Trip Tip: Splurge on the $110 video, since we’re guessing this will be a one-and-done on the old bucket list. And if the videographer happens to miss your initial jump, the video is free. (Just trust us on this one.) 32524 Aero Dr., Laurel, DE, 888-875-3540

Theodore Roosevelt Island (Washington, D.C., 44 miles).
Why Go:
Take a walk on the wild side at this 89-acre wilderness preserve that serves as a living tribute to the nation’s nature-loving 26th President. Miles of trails through swamps, marshes, and upland forests rife with rabbits and raccoons will make you marvel that you’re in the middle of the Potomac River. Don’t Miss: Pay homage at the 17-foot statue of Roosevelt in the northern center of the island, where four 21-foot tablets are inscribed with his conservation philosophy. Another way to show your respect: There’s an annual family-friendly birthday celebration for Teddy (Oct. 24 this year), including physical tests of strength. (Roosevelt was fitness-obsessed and kept records on how fast he could run and how high he could jump.) Trip Tip: To add to the fun, rent a canoe and paddle over from Thompson Boat Center on Virginia Ave. Word to the wise: Parking spots for cars go fast. Washington, D.C., 703-289-2500.

CHARMING TOWNS

Chesapeake City (Chesapeake City, 63 miles).
Why Go:
Escape the bright lights and big city and go revel in the simple pleasures of a small town. Chesapeake City feels like a world away—a quintessential, Eastern Shore whistle stop with historic houses, antique shops, and brackish tides that lap up and lick at the tiny town’s edge. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the city sits beside the C&D Canal, tucked beneath a suspension bridge. It’s not much bigger today than it was back then (current population: 688), and many of the old buildings still stand, albeit with a fresh coat of paint. Don’t Miss: Learn about the waterway and its coastal community at the C&D Canal Museum or watch the sunset with Miss Clare Cruises. On land, partake in waterfront fine dining at the historic Bayard House, raw bar beauties at Chesapeake Inn, or crab feasts and cheap beers at Tap Room Crabhouse. Trip Tip: Tour nearby Mount Harmon Plantation, an early 17th-century waterfront manor set on 200 acres of former tobacco farmland. Route 213, Cecil County.

Georgetown (Washington, D.C., 40 miles).
Why Go:
Sometimes in the bubble of Baltimore, we forget about our next-door neighbor, D.C. Beat the throngs of Capitol Hill tourists and make your way to Georgetown for 18th-century architecture, historic homes, red brick sidewalks, and a scenic waterfront. But don’t let the Colonial charm fool you: Georgetown is a hip and happening ‘hood, with great shopping, incredible eats, and a nightlife scene that includes lots of live music. Don’t Miss: After you’ve perused the Georgetown Flea Market, the string of stores along M Street, and various vintage and antique shops, treat yourself to a taste of the district’s world-class culinary scene. Restaurants for every palate and paycheck abound—date-night fine dining (Bourbon Steak, Chez Billy Sud); above-average pub grub (Martin’s Tavern, The Tombs); playful comfort food (Luke’s Lobster, Thunder Burger); and, of course, cupcakes. Trip Tip: For Instagram-worthy tourist attractions, climb the iconic Exorcist steps from the 1970s horror film at 36th and M Streets, or stroll between the landmark homes and haunts of Jackie O and JFK. Washington, D.C., 202-298-9222.

Lancaster County (Lancaster, PA, 74 miles).
Why Go:
Time seems to stand still in dreamy Lancaster County—and that’s exactly the point. Here, amongst the Amish and Mennonite, you’ll find horse-drawn carriages (we recommend Ed’s Buggy Rides in Ronks), covered bridges, the nation’s oldest pretzel factory, Julius Sturgis in Lititz (try your hand at making your own), and Amish crafts and culture. (The Landis Valley Museum highlights Pennsylvania German life.) Unplug, and be present to the past. Don’t Miss: Stop by Lancaster Central Market, one of the nation’s oldest publicly owned, continuously operating farmers’ markets. We suggest a stop at Wendy Jo’s Homemade stall for a slice of Shoo-Fly Pie, anointed one of the Top 10 Best Places for Pie in America by Bon Appetit. (Even if you don’t go, you can order it online.) Trip Tip: This is not a place to add to your Instagram image library. Cultural sensitivity is called for, folks: Amish people don’t take selfies. Lancaster County, PA, 800-AMISH-PA, lancasterpa.com

St. Mary’s City (St. Mary’s County, 101 miles).
Why Go: While Williamsburg has its Colonial charms, Maryland’s fourth permanent settlement in North America and the state’s first capital is not only charming, but a lot easier on the fuel tank. History buffs will love the early 18th-century Sotterly Plantation, a National Historic Landmark and one of the oldest museums of its kind in the United States, as well as a tour of the recreated brick chapel of St. Mary’s, the first English Catholic chapel in the colonies. Meanwhile, sun worshippers should consider a few hours at Myrtle Point Park, water enthusiasts can rent canoes or kayaks at Spray Tobacco Plantation, and foodies will delight in North St. Mary’s County Farmers’ Market for produce and Amish baked goods. Don’t Miss: The adults-only tour at St. Mary’s City where, based on actual court documents, the dirty little secrets of 17th-century Maryland are revealed. Trip Tip: Given that there’s water, water everywhere, a crab cake at Courtney’s Seafood Restaurant in Ridge is a must. This is the spot where local watermen enjoy the fruits of the bay. St. Mary’s County, 800-327-9023, visitstmarysmd.com

St. Michaels (St. Michaels, 78 miles).
Why Go:
There’s something so intriguing about the Eastern Shore—a sort of city-state within the borders of Maryland. Tap into our tidewater roots with a trip to the historic hamlet of St. Michaels. Many of the old shipbuilding and seafood plants are long gone, but the town still displays a rich maritime spirit where watermen reap the bounties of the bay and life moves at a slower pace. Don’t Miss: In town, browse antique shops and art galleries, feast on invigorated Chesapeake classics at 208 Talbot, and tour the burgeoning booze scene, with Eastern Shore Brewing, Lyon Distilling, and St. Michaels Winery all on the same block. Visit the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, a dockside treasure trove of bay history, or, to experience the shore for yourself, canoe, bike, and walk a wealth of water and land trails with lots of local wildlife. Trip Tip: On your way to St. Michaels, take a detour on MD Route-333 south to ride the country’s oldest continuing car ferry across the Tred Avon River in the tiny town of Oxford. Talbot County, 410-745-0411, stmichaelsmd.org

CULTURE

Antietam National Battlefield (Sharpsburg, 67 miles).
Why Go:
Just because you saw it re-enacted in Steven Spielberg’s Oscar-winning Lincoln doesn’t exactly make you an expert on September 17, 1862, the bloodiest one-day battle of the Civil War, when 23,000 Union and Confederate soldiers lost their lives. To truly walk though the pages of history, visit this hallowed ground, which led President Abraham Lincoln to issue the preliminary Emancipation Proclamation. This serene site, with rolling cornfields and dense woodlands belies the battles that unfolded here. It’s also one of the best-preserved battlefields in the country. Don’t Miss: The Pry House Field Hospital Museum features a recreated operating room with implements used to care for the fallen on display. Trip Tip: The well-curated bookstore is worth a visit to further your understanding, and purchases directly benefit the historic site. 5831 Dunker Church Rd., Sharpsburg, 301-432-5124.

Arlington National Cemetery (Arlington, VA, 43 miles).
Why Go:
Pay your respects with a visit to the more than 400,000 active-duty American soldiers, as well as many notable Americans (Presidents John F. Kennedy and William Howard Taft, Supreme Court Justice Warren Earl Burger, novelist Samuel Dashiell Hammett) interred on the grounds of this serene cemetery established as the nation’s military burial ground in 1864. Don’t Miss: The more than 8,600 native and exotic trees offset the somberness of the site. Check out the Medal of Honor Historic Trees such as the white ash tree grown from seeds collected at the Hartford, CT, birthplace of abolitionist Harriet Beecher Stowe. Trip Tip: With an average of 27 to 30 funerals held every weekday, see a service while you can. It’s projected that the cemetery will be filled by 2060. Arlington, VA, 877-907-8585.

Mütter Museum (Philadelphia, PA, 102 miles).
Why Go:
This museum of medical oddities has a certain Ripley’s-Believe-It-or-Not quality to it. But whether you’re drawn to the tumor removed from President Grover Cleveland’s jaw or the seven-foot-six-inch skeleton (the tallest on display in North America), we’re willing to bet that you won’t be able to look away from a comprehensive collection that includes fascinating anatomical organs and pathological specimens. Don’t Miss: It doesn’t take a genius to figure out that the museum’s display of sections of Einstein’s brain should be at the top of your list. The death cast of Siamese Twins Chang and Eng Bunker, whose autopsy was performed on the same premises, is also great for gawking. Trip Tip: Before you head to the museum, consider a hot corned-beef on rye at the Famous 4th Street Delicatessen for a true taste of Philadelphia. 19 S. 22nd St., Philadelphia, PA, 215-560-8564.

National Air and Space Museum’s Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center (Chantilly, VA, 65 miles).
Why Go:
The National Air and Space Museum on Washington, D.C.’s, Mall is on everyone’s culture radar, but fewer day trippers seem to know about the sister Smithsonian museum in Chantilly at the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center, which houses more than 3,300 space artifacts, including the first supersonic commercial Concorde jet, a Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird (the fastest-ever jet flown), and the space shuttle Discovery. Don’t Miss: Take a moment of silence while standing in the presence of the Enola Gay, which dropped the first atomic bomb used in combat over Hiroshima. Trip Tip: Even if you normally go the self-guided route, don’t miss the chance to tour with one of the museum’s docents. Many of them are former NASA employees, pilots (some who flew the actual aircraft in the exhibitions), engineers, and historians. Taking a tour is rocket science. 14390 Air and Space Museum Pkwy., Chantilly, VA, 703-572-4118.

It would not be hyperbole to call the Freer’s Peacock Room one of the most beautiful rooms in America.

Peacock Room at the Freer Gallery (Washington, D.C., 45 miles).
Why Go:
With its floor-to-ceiling gold murals painted on peacock-blue walls and a peacock-feather patterned gold-leaf ceiling, James McNeill Whistler’s recently restored room is a masterpiece of Anglo-Asian design. It would not be hyperbole to call this one of the most beautiful rooms in America. Don’t Miss: Check out the pair of fighting peacocks on the south wall. Whistler depicted this aggressive confrontation between the birds after a fight with Frederick Leyland, a shipping magnate, for whom the room was originally built in London. Whistler was brought in to touch up the tycoon’s walls, but instead—and much to Leyland’s dismay—revamped the space. While there, view the museum’s collection of Whistler’s works, the largest in the world. Trip Tip: At noon on the third Thursday of every month, the shutters are thrown open to bathe the room in natural light. 1050 Independence Ave., SW, Washington, D.C., 202-633-1000.

FOOD & DRINK

Annapolis Pub Crawl (Annapolis, 29 miles).
Why Go:
From the Naval Academy to the State House to a brief 1700s stint as our young nation’s capital, Annapolis has no shortage of history, culture, or political attractions, but for a warm-weather visit, we suggest something a bit more, you know, Colonial. Wander the cobblestoned streets, peek into the windows of historic homes, then make like a local and head to the harbor for an afternoon pub crawl with some of the region’s best raw bars, draft beers, and good old-fashioned fun. Don’t Miss: Bop between waterfront watering holes and historic taverns like Dock Street and McGarvey’s for oyster shooters and pints of Guinness. When evening falls, hang out to hear live local music or scramble to West Street for marquee talent at Rams Head Tavern. Trip Tip: Need a palette change? Try the small plates at Level, or mosey over to Eastport and nab a seat and a sip of wine at the lauded brick-oven pizza bungalow, Vin 909. Anne Arundel County, 410-280-0445.

Dogfish Head Brewery (Milton, DE, 107 miles).
Why Go:
With hourly tours, boundless beer samplings, beer-infused food, and even an adult-sized tree house, the Dogfish Head brewery is a must-play jungle gym for grownups. Proudly billed as “off-centered stuff for off-centered people,” Dogfish Head Craft Brewed Ales are made for bold beer-lovers. The dozens of Delaware drafts and bottles range from fan-favorites like Shelter Pale Ale and 90 Minute IPA to beer-wine hybrids and experimental elixirs made with wasabi, “moon dust” (literally lunar meteorites), and even local breakfast meat, Rapa Scrapple. Most brews are poured exclusively at the brewery’s Milton tasting room or at the nearby Rehoboth brewpub. Don’t Miss: The company encourages artistic expression, so don’t pass up the chance to donate an item—be it art, craft, or found object—to the tasting room’s Off-Centered Wall. Trip Tip: If you tipped back one too many, spring for a stay at hipster haven, the Dogfish Head Inn in nearby Lewes. 6 Cannery Village Center Blvd., Milton, DE, 302-684-1000.

Reading Terminal Market (Philadelphia, PA, 100 miles).
Why Go: The Reading Terminal Market is a big, bustling, melting pot, like the city it calls home. Whether you’re buying groceries from the Middle East, scouting for Pennsylvania Dutch fudge, or searching for that classic cookbook, the market is a Philly institution. Don’t Miss: With everything from Cajun crawfish to Peking duck to the obvious cheese steak, come hungry. Sit at the counter for roast pork at DiNic’s or shoot the breeze with the guy making your corned beef Reuben at Hershel’s. As for dessert? That’s easy: a cannoli at Termini Bros. and a scoop at Bassett’s, America’s oldest ice cream company. Trip Tip: Need to walk off your lunch? The Liberty Bell, Constitution Hall, and the Betsy Ross House should get you started. 51 N. 12th St., Philadelphia, PA, 215-922-2317.

Utz Potato Chip Factory Tour (Hanover, PA, 52 miles).
Why Go:
You’ll never think negatively about snack foods again after touring the headquarters for the 94-year-old business that turns out 16,000 pounds of chips per hour and 52-million pounds of chips per year. Yes, it’s a bit of a shameless self-promotion for the largest privately owned snack food company in America (and every conceivable Utz product is on hand at the nearby outlet store to tempt), but tracing a chip’s trip from raw spud to bagged crisp is legitimately fascinating—and it’s a great field trip to take with the tykes. Don’t Miss: Get your free bag of chips at tour’s end—you’ll understand why they’re called “crisps.” Trip Tip: Consider combining your jaunt with another snack-food tour at Synder’s of Hanover or Martin’s Potato factory. 900 High St., Hanover, 800-367-7629.

Virginia Wine Country (Virginia area, 60 miles).
Why Go:
With more than 230 wineries and dozens of wine trails, Virginia is for wine lovers. You could easily spend a week wending your way from Arlington to Williamsburg to the North Carolina border, but if you want to conquer this countryside within a day’s drive, consider the wineries in Loudown County (known as D.C.’s Wine Country). Tarara Winery, Winery 32, and Fabbioli Cellars are all within easy proximity to each other and offer highly heralded Bordeaux blends, tannats, and Cabernet Franc. Don’t Miss: Grab your lawn chair and head to Tarara Winery’s summer concert series for classic rock. Trip Tip: Appoint a designated driver, but also sop up the alcohol with a farm-to-table repast at Magnolias at the Mill in nearby Purcellville. Another tip: Hit the wine trail on a weekday to meet and mingle with the winemakers (Tarara’s Jordan Harris was named one of the Top 100 Most Influential U.S. Winemakers by IntoWine.com) and learn the difference between plonk and pomace. Virginia, 804-344-8200.

Oldies But Goodies

Alt-Americana

Indie Pop

Great Escape

Why taking a break is a must.

When Jack Kerouac wrote about the romance of the road, he was onto something. In fact, industry experts say that hitting the road is not a luxury, but actually vital to good health.

“Going away gives our nervous systems a chance to rest,” says psychologist Lara Wrigley of the Metta Integrative Wellness Center in Hampden. “We are designed to experience short bursts of stress, then have a recovery period, but with the way our lives are structured now, bombarding our minds and bodies at all times, we’re always on high alert and affected by chronic stress. Going away, even on a day trip, interrupts that cycle.”

Giving your brain a break can change the way you think, says Nathalie Savell, a holistic wellness counselor also at Metta Integrative. “Taking time off shifts our perspective,” Savell says. “It’s like taking a very deep breath that takes us out of survival mode and brings us to a calmer state. From there, we can make better decisions and stay present.” Sums up Wrigley, “Getting away gives us space for reflection and a chance to quiet. It’s a vaccine against burnout.”

Ones for the Road

There’s nothing like reading on the road. (And no, we’re not talking about our email Inbox.) Audio Books prove that, indeed, getting there can be half the fun. check one out at your local library or download an audio app. We could go on forever, but here are just a few suggestions for great listens:

Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef: Gabrielle Hamilton’s brilliant memoir about food and a family is one of the best of its genre. Word of warning: Wherever you are, you’ll want to reprogram your GPS and head straight to Hamilton’s East Village restaurant, Prune. Hamilton reads her own work, adding to the allure.

David and Goliath: Underdogs, Misfits, and the Art of Battling Giants: Malcolm Gladwell’s ambitious examination of the advantage of disadvantage is a page-turner, or, in this case, a mile-mover. Narrated by the author.

Middlesex: Jeffrey Eugenides’s sweeping Pulitzer Prize-winning coming-of-age masterpiece about hermaphroditism clocks in at a whopping 21 hours and 26 minutes, so a drive to Savnnah and back might be more approriate than a jaunt to D.C., but 30 minutes in, and you’ll be all ears. Kristoffer Tabori’s narration is captivating.

Orange is the New Black: My Year in a Women’s Prison: Piper Kerman’s insightful and self-deprecating memoir turned Emmy-winning Netflix series details the Smith College alumna’s days spent in the slammer. Cassandra Campell narrates.

For years, vineyards have coaxed people to Napa Valley, where the best part of vacationing is sipping (and spitting) wine. But lately, passion for a different kind of alcohol is inspiring travel: beer. With fall beer season in full swing, we’ve outlined three weekend trips to satisfy your brew fix. Though you’ve likely visited these places before, you’ve never tasted them like this.

The Eastern Shore

Your annual Ocean City trip is in the books, but now that the sunscreen-slicked beach goers have packed up, why not go back “downee ocean” for a fall road trip? Coastal Maryland and Delaware offer vacationers more than great beaches—they also have some truly amazing beer.

At the newly opened Dogfish Inn (105 Savannah Rd., Lewes,302-644-8292, dogfishinn.com), guests can structure their entire vacation, from the beach chairs to the bedspreads, around beer. Opened in July, the inn was transformed from the former Vesuvio Motel into a haven for guests to explore the coast from a central location between the Milton brewery and Rehoboth brewpub.

Start your day at the inn’s cottage with a cup of chicory stout coffee, a blend of Colombian coffee, chicory, and dark malted brewer’s barley, made in collaboration with local roastery Notting Hill Coffee, located steps away from the inn on 2nd Street.

Then, borrow one of the inn’s beach cruisers to take in the changing foliage of Cape Henlopen State Park, or rent kayaks from nearby Quest Kayak and follow up your excursion at Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats (320 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 302-644-2739), or drive 11 miles west to tour the Dogfish Head Craft Brewery (6 Cannery Village Ctr., Milton, 302-684-1000, dogfish.com) production facility in Milton.

Both the brewpub and the brewery offer several limited-run beers. We tried Fer’me Verjus, a slightly tart beer made with wine and local plums. If all the sampling has you hungry, try beer-infused fare from Bunyan’s Lunchbox, a food cart outside the brewery. We enjoyed the heirloom Italian bratwurst, based on a recipe from Dogfish founder Sam Calagione’s great-grandmother and infused with the ancient-inspired ale Midas Touch. Bring back a growler or a bottle of micro-distilled spirits to enjoy while gathered around the inn’s cowboy cauldron with other guests. (Note: The inn doesn’t sell beer; instead, guests are encouraged to support local businesses.)

Lewes—founded in 1631 and located on the Delaware Bay—is a relaxed alternative to the beaches of Dewey and Rehoboth, and the perfect size for walking. Stroll 2nd Street for tax-free shopping—find unique treasures at Lewes Mercantile Antiques (109 Second St., Lewes, 302-645-7900) and pick up a beach read at Biblion bookstore (205 Second St., Lewes, 302-644-2210). Visit the free Zwaanendael Museum (102 Kings Hwy., Lewes, 302-645-1148) to imagine daily life for the town’s Dutch colonists, or stop by the Cannonball House (118 Front St., Lewes) and Lightship Overfalls (219 Pilottown Rd., Lewes) for a taste of Lewes’s maritime history.

You can structure an entire vacation, from beach chairs to bedspreads, around beer.

Continue your trip with a scenic drive down Coastal Highway through Ocean City to Burley Oak Brewing Company (10016 Old Ocean City Blvd., Berlin, 443-513-4647, burleyoak.com). Voted the Coolest Small Town in America by Budget Travel, Berlin’s quaint charm has been featured in several movies, including Runaway Bride and Tuck Everlasting. Built in 1895, the Atlantic Hotel (2 N. Main St., Berlin, 410-641-3589, atlantichotel.com) is a piece of history in itself, located in a Victorian-era downtown. The covered porch at the hotel’s Drummer’s Café is the perfect place to people watch.

After browsing for antiques on Main Street, explore nearby Assateague Island from the water with a guided kayak excursion from SuperFun Eco Tours (13002 Bayside Dr., Berlin, 410-656-9453).

A 15-minute walk from downtown, Burley Oak’s taproom is an unofficial town meeting place, where bartenders catch up with locals while refilling their growlers. The bar faces an expansive window opening onto the brewery’s large copper brew kettles, which, on the day of our visit, contained Golden Sex Panther, a saison made with lemongrass and basil. Try Local, a pale ale brewed with locally grown barley, or SuperFun Stout, an oatmeal stout made in collaboration with SuperFun Eco Tours. Grab a 750-milliliter bottle to take home, like Ich Bin Ein, a Berliner Weisse aged in bourbon barrels, since you won’t find them in Baltimore.

There are small snacks at the brewery, but less than a mile away is Blacksmith Bar and Restaurant (104 Pitts St., 410-973-2102) where Burley Oak beer is always flowing. Take a seat at the bar or on the patio and try one of the beer cocktails. We liked Summer Trip, made with Amaro, Limoncello, and Burley Oak’s Berliner Weisse Sour Trip, paired with their short-rib taquitos and homemade veggie burger.

Head home by way of Route 50 and stop in Salisbury at Evolution Craft Brewing Company (201 E. Vine St., Salisbury, 443-260-2337, evolutioncraftbrewing.com). Yes, Evolution beers are readily available in Baltimore, but while waiting for your tour (which runs at set times Friday through Sunday), sample some of the brewery’s limited beers at the long, wooden bar in the tasting room. Built into it is a raw bar, where happy-hour oysters go for a buck a shuck. We tried Wandering Monk, a fruity and spicy trappist-inspired Belgian-style pale ale. If you’re hungry, eat at the Public House, Evolution’s farm-to-table restaurant adjacent to the brewery. Most items on the menu have a suggested beer pairing. We liked the duck confit burger paired with Lot #6 DIPA.

Washington, D.C.

Just an hour’s drive away, our sister to the southwest is home to many beers you won’t find in Baltimore. D.C. is close enough to drive for a day, or stay the weekend at one of the city’s charming B&Bs or hotels, like the quaint Swann House (1808 New Hampshire Ave. NW, 202-265-4414, swannhouse.com), a historic inn from the late-1800s, or the trendy Hotel Helix (1430 Rhode Island Ave. NW, 202-462-9001, hotelhelix.com), a Kimpton hotel near Logan Circle that offers a central location between bars and breweries.

Right near the Maryland-D.C. line is DC Brau Brewing Company (3178-B Bladensburg Rd. NE, 202-621-8890, dcbrau.com), opened in 2011 and known for its intensely hoppy, high-ABV imperial IPA On the Wings of Armageddon. Once you find the brewery (located down an alley behind a post office), hang out at the taproom while waiting for your tour (Saturday afternoons). While walking through, keep your eyes open for works of art, from murals by D.C.’s Kelly Towles to growler and glass designs by San Francisco illustrator Matt Leunig. We tried The Daughters of Poseidon Black Oyster IPA, a collaboration with Baxter Brewing Co. out of Lewiston, ME, made with locally sourced Olde Salt oysters from Rappahannock Oyster Co.

Next, head over to the historic Shaw neighborhood for grub and beers at Right Proper Brewing Company (624 T St. NW, 202-607-2337, rightproperbrewery.com). Nearing its first birthday this December, Right Proper is located on the site of Frank Holiday’s Pool Hall, which was frequented by jazz greats including a young Duke Ellington. Take a seat at the bar, in between a chalk mural of D.C. under attack by pandas created by local artist Patrick Owen and large windows framing the brewery’s various kettles and fermentation tanks.

Inquisitive drinkers will meet their match, with eight taps of unique beers in a range of styles. We liked Songlines Aboriginal farmhouse ale, brewed as a saison with wild yeast, giving it a slightly funky flavor, and a dose of Australian and New Zealand hops for a bright citrus taste.

Right Proper’s comfort food pairs well with the libations—try the southern fried chick-filet sandwich with house-made pickles or pork rinds and pimento cheese. The brewery doesn’t bottle beer yet, but you can take home a growler.

At the brewery, keep your eyes open for works of art, from murals to growler and glass designs.

Another newcomer to D.C.’s craft beer scene, Bluejacket (300 Tingey St. SE, 202-524-4862, bluejacketdc.com) opened last year in Navy Yard. The brewery’s restaurant and bar, The Arsenal, helmed by chef Kyle Bailey of Birch & Barley and ChurchKey, serves lunch and dinner daily—we snacked on oysters and charcuterie plates. You can see the brewing equipment stacked over three stories from the bar, where 25 Bluejacket beers are on tap, from Inkwell, a Belgian-style stout, to Cut & Dry, a Bohemian-style pilsner. To get a closer look, take a free tour (Saturdays) or reserve a tasting tour for $29 that includes a sample of a beer-in-progress.

For a great place to escape the city and catch the changing colors on more than 30 miles of hiking trails, head north from the industrial Navy Yard to Rock Creek Park (5200 Glover Rd. NW). We suggest the Boulder Bridge Hike, a three-mile loop along Rock Creek that begins near the MD-D.C. border, or the Rapids Bridge Loop, a two-mile hike that begins behind the park’s Horse Center.

On your way out of the city, stop at 3 Stars Brewing Company (6400 Chillum Place NW, threestarsbrewing.com), which started its lineup with Maryland brewery collaborations including Evolution and Oliver Ales and celebrated its two-year anniversary this summer. Three Stars is more brewery warehouse than tasting room—sip samples or fill your growler amid shiny fermenting tanks, wooden barrels, and bags of malt that line walls painted with vibrant murals. There’s even a homebrew store on-site. We liked the Peppercorn Saison, a fruity, dry, Belgian-style farmhouse ale. Despite limited hours, on Saturdays, the brewery features free tours and outside food trucks, so you can chow down at picnic tables.

Philadelphia

Less than a two-hour drive, Philadelphia has a beer scene punctuated by both large, trailblazing breweries and innovative newbies. Stay in Center City at Hotel Monaco (433 Chestnut St., monaco-philadelphia.com) to be in the heart of colonial history, or choose a historic B&B in charming Society Hill along the Delaware River within easy reach of shopping, dining, and drinking destinations.

Begin your trip to the City of Brotherly Love with Yards Brewing Company (901 N. Delaware Ave., 215-634-2600, yardsbrewing.com), located in Northern Liberties near the Delaware River and SugarHouse Casino. Free tours (on weekends) begin in the tasting room, where Yard’s offers limited-release beers in addition to their signature styles.

We tried the hoppy Daughters of Apollo IPA, named after the hops used in the beer, and Pynk, a fruity, tart ale brewed with raspberries and cherries. Most Saturdays, Yards hosts a local food truck, like the popular Spot Burger, in addition to its own bar menu.

Just a half-mile north of Yards is Fette Sau (1208 Frankford Ave., 215-391-4888, fettesauphilly.com), a barbecue restaurant that came to Philly by way of Brooklyn and whose name means “fat pig” in German. Sit at the bar, where tap handles are repurposed from butchering tools, or at a communal picnic table to browse the draft list—it’s heavy on local craft beer, like Fat Pig by Pottstown’s Sly Fox Brewing Company. To match the restaurant’s rustic vibe, beers are served in Mason jars.

Just two blocks from Rittenhouse Square is Monk’s Cafe (264 S. 16th St., 215-545-7005, monkscafe.com), a world-renowned Belgian beer bar and restaurant. Although you won’t find many locals at this bar, which has become known as a beer-tourist destination, it’s worth a stop to check out the Belgian-style beers on its 20 taps and its more than 300 bottles.

Sit at the bar, where tap handles are repurposed from butchering tools.

For a taste of Philly’s innovative microbrews, head to Ardmore, a neighborhood with small-town charm just 20 minutes from the city. Tired Hands Brewing Company (16 Ardmore Ave., Ardmore, 610-896-7621, tiredhands.com) was opened in 2012 by a husband-wife team. At the end of the cozy cafe’s long bar, you’ll see a door leading to the microbrewery’s 12-keg system. The eight taps and cask feature beers with unusual flavor combinations, like Here Lies, a hoppy golden bitter with notes of pineapple, pine, and toffee. The brewery is the only place you’ll find Tired Hands beer, but you can bring home a 32- or 64-ounce growler.

Next, visit Victory Brewing Company (420 Acorn Ln., Downington, 610-873-0881, victorybeer.com). Founded in 1996, Victory is an important part of the Mid-Atlantic’s craft-beer history, with classics like HopDevil, a bold, aromatic IPA, that was part of the brewery’s original lineup. During the tour (weekends), you’ll see the 100,000-square-foot brewhouse and fermentation room while being guided through the brewing process. Stay for dinner at the large, open dining area adjacent to the bar, serving items like onion-and-beer soup made with HopDevil wort (liquid extracted after the malts are added during the brewing process).

To work off your beer belly before heading home, enjoy the fall foliage of nearby Struble Trail, which follows a branch of Brandywine Creek on the railroad line and is frequented by joggers, walkers, bikers and, apparently, beer lovers—like you.

Smack dab in the center of 60-plus miles of sandy beaches known as the Grand Strand, Myrtle Beach is one of South Carolina’s top tourist destinations. It is also, apparently, one of Maryland’s. According to the Myrtle Beach Area Convention & Visitors Bureau, the Old Line State is a top 10 visitor point of origin for Myrtle Beach, with Baltimoreans comprising the greatest contingent of Marylanders. Once you get there, it’s easy to see why. Myrtle Beach has the same unpretentious, family-friendly vibe as our own Ocean City—and many of the same types of attractions—but with an extra dose of Southern hospitality and Low Country charm. And now that low-cost Spirit Airlines flies daily direct from BWI to Myrtle Beach, popping down to the Palmetto State for a long weekend is both an economically viable and timely option.

Packed with amusements, entertainment venues, world-class golf, casual restaurants, and, of course, wide white-sand beaches, the city of Myrtle Beach makes a good base camp for a family vacation, but branching out into the greater Myrtle Beach area, which runs from the North Carolina border down to the resolutely laidback Pawleys Island, yields many pleasures, as well.

Getting from the bright and airy Myrtle Beach Airport to what locals call The Strip—beachfront, hotel-lined Ocean Boulevard—in Myrtle Beach takes about 10 minutes, maybe 15 in summer beach traffic. Many of the mid-rise hotels and low-slung motels offer the same basic amenities—beach access, pools, air-conditioned rooms, Wi-Fi—but some do it with a little more luxury and style than others. The recently renovated Island Vista Resort (6000 N. Ocean Boulevard, 843-449-6406) is a nice higher-end option offering sizable rooms and plush beds, three pools (two outdoor, one indoor), two Jacuzzis, a lazy river, oceanfront cabana massages, a fitness center, a tiki bar, and an award-winning restaurant, The Cypress Room, serving breakfast and dinner daily. Its location, a couple miles removed from The Strip’s nightlife hub, makes it an excellent choice for those who want more relaxation and less recreation in their vacation.

Still, a trip to The Strip is de rigueur. As with Ocean City, the fun centers on the town’s boardwalk, with arcades, ice cream parlors, souvenir shops, bars and clubs, and amusements lining the way. But unlike the boardwalk in O.C., The Myrtle Beach Boardwalk & Promenade is not historic. In fact, the 1.2-mile path only opened in 2010, but that hasn’t dimmed enthusiasm for it with both Travel + Leisure and National Geographic naming it one of the best boardwalks in the U.S. Many of Myrtle Beach’s most iconic attractions can be accessed from the wending walk, which starts at the 2nd Avenue Pier (110 N. Ocean Boulevard, 843-626-8480), a 906-foot wooden landing built in 1936 with one restaurant and one bar attached. Like all the piers in Myrtle Beach, it is privately owned, which means there are fees associated with its usage, but they are nominal. It costs $1 to walk on the pier and $9 for an all-day fishing pass (bait and tackle cost extra), a good value since the pier is open until 1 a.m. all summer. On Wednesday nights, the pier closes, but for good reason, as it hosts a fireworks display that all can enjoy for free. Continuing up the boardwalk, do peek in to the improbably named Gay Dolphin Gift Cove (916 N. Ocean Boulevard, 843-448-6550), which has been hawking its wares since 1946 and bills itself as the East Coast’s largest gift shop. When combing its nine cluttered floors crammed with over 70,000 items of bric-a-brac ranging from novelty shot glasses to shark’s teeth, it’s easy to take this as fact rather than boast.

The SkyWheel’s one million LED lights sparkle in a light show each evening.

Further vestiges of old Myrtle Beach, Family Kingdom Amusement Park (300 S. Ocean Boulevard, 843-626-3447) and the adjoining Family Kingdom’s Splashes Oceanfront Water Park (843-916-0400), are the only oceanfront amusement parks in town and compulsory stops for thrill-seekers. All attractions are pay-per-ride, and those rides include corkscrew waterslides, two roller coasters, a log flume, bumper cars, go-karts, and a Ferris wheel, which was the highest in South Carolina until 2011. That was the year the postcard-perfect SkyWheel opened (1110 N. Ocean Boulevard, 843-839-9200). Rising 187-feet above the boardwalk, the SkyWheel is a smaller, faster version of London’s Eye. Ensconced in glass pods, riders get three full rotations (lasting about 10 minutes) to take in the spectacular views of the Atlantic, The Strip, and the surrounding Low Country. The wheel’s one million LED lights sparkle in a light show each evening, and, since it’s open until midnight during the summer, it’s a great perch for enjoying the fireworks.

While there are many places along the boardwalk to grab a hot dog and fries, more refined fare can be found at the storied Sea Captain’s House (3002 N. Ocean Boulevard, 843-448-8082), which began life as a modest vacation cottage but has been a restaurant since 1962. Today, it serves three meals a day and is known for its sea views from the enclosed porch and several house specialties, including she-crab soup and hummingbird cake, a Southern layer cake featuring pecans, pineapple, and bananas, and slathered with cream-cheese frosting.

Of course, for many, Myrtle Beach is all about one thing—golf. The course that put Myrtle Beach on the map is The Dunes Golf & Beach Club (9000 N. Ocean Boulevard., 843-449-5236), which opened its first nine holes in October 1949. Extensive renovations—especially those made by famed course designer Robert Trent Jones in the early 1990s—have kept the facility in demand. Unfortunately, it’s a members-only club and opportunities to play are difficult to come by unless you know someone or are staying in an affiliated hotel. Never fear though, because you are never far from a first tee in Myrtle Beach. There’s the Caledonia Golf and Fish Club (369 Caledonia Drive, Pawleys Island, 843-237-3675) with its ancient oak-lined fairways or the Arnold Palmer-designed King’s North at Myrtle Beach National (4900 National Drive, 843-448-2308) with its treacherous par 5 sixth hole known as “The Gambler.” Several sites, including myrtlebeachgolf.com and golfholiday.com aggregate golf vacation packages for easy browsing. Plus, there are the bounteous mini-golf complexes boasting every theme from Peter Pan to Polynesia. Taken together, it proves that Myrtle Beach earns its title as “the supermarket of golf.”

Sometimes it rains, even at the beach. On such days, it’s best to head up to North Myrtle Beach and its Intracoastal Waterway-adjacent entertainment complex Barefoot Landing (4898 Highway 17, 843-272-8349). A hive of dining, entertainment, and shopping options, the sprawling campus is clustered into villages connected by footbridges, and includes concert venues (House of Blues, Alabama Theatre), clothing stores such as Izod and White House Black Market, plus dozens of eateries, including a fudge shop, ice cream parlors, steakhouses, seafood grills, and Italian restaurants. If you’re not in the mood to dally though, head straight next door to Alligator Adventure (4604 Highway 17, 843-361-0789) an indoor/outdoor zoo specializing in Crocodilians—alligators, crocodiles, caimans, and the like—plus numerous other exotic species, including red kangaroos, gray wolves, red-ruffed lemurs, and macaws. Oddities abound, including albino alligators (referred to as “swamp ghosts” by Low Country locals), a tailless American alligator named Bob, and 50-year-old, 2,000-pound Utan, the largest croc on exhibit in the U.S. Don’t miss the five daily feeding shows. They’re as fearsome and fascinating as you’d imagine.

Once the sun reappears, head to Murrells Inlet at the southern end of the Grand Strand for water sports. The area is peppered with outlets willing to fly you above, tow you through, or plunge you under the water, but Express Watersports’ (4042 Highway 17-Business, 866-566-9338) U.S. Coast Guard-inspected boat and highly experienced staff set it apart. Whether you choose to scuba, parasail, jet ski, kayak, paddleboard, or cruise off shore in search of dolphins, sharks, sea turtles, and rays, the team at Express Watersports can get you out there safely and bring you back with a smile on your face. While at the inlet, partake in one of the many casual seafood restaurants that line the creek. Many, like Bubba’s Love Shak (4037 Highway 17-Business, 843-651-5850) ooze a sort of swampy bohemia that can’t be faked. (Bubba describes himself on his restaurant’s website as “a big fan of NASCAR, country music, fishing, eating crabs, adult entertainment, shagging, and taking care of Goat Island,” the latter of which is a thin sliver of land on which he tends goats and peacocks during the warm months.) If real-estate daydreaming is your thing, across the marsh, there are the million-dollar beach houses of Garden City and the fine views and fresh seafood of Gulfstream Café (1536 S. Waccamaw Drive, Garden City).

Continuing off the beaten track, discover another side to Myrtle Beach at Huntington Beach State Park (16148 Ocean Highway, 843-237-4440), a secluded, peaceful 2,500-acre tract of protected wilderness just south of Murrells Inlet and Garden City. Formerly the estate of American sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington and her husband, Hispanic scholar Archer Milton Huntington, the couple’s Moorish Revival-style winter home Atalaya Castle is open for tours as is an adjacent sculpture park, Brookgreen Gardens, which showcases over 1,000 works by Hyatt Huntington and her American contemporaries. Named one of the Top 10 Public Gardens in the U.S. by Coastal Living magazine, the serenity of the space is the perfect counterbalance to the frenetic fun of Myrtle Beach, a place to recharge before heading back to The Strip’s electric night.

There are tons of fireworks going off this Fourth of July, so here are our picks for the best off-the-beaten-path views.

Tide Point Waterfront Park
Locust Point
With fewer crowds than atop Federal Hill or at the Inner Harbor, Tide Point’s waterfront promenade—where Hull Street meets the water and Under Armour has taken over—feels like a boardwalk right in the middle of the city.

Luskin’s Hill
Towson
Though the original Luskin’s furniture store closed nearly 20 years ago, they just opened a new one last year. But the 120-foot incline off of Cromwell Bridge Road remains one of the best places to see the Loch Raven fireworks.

Tiki Barge
Inner Harbor
This floating peninsula of a bar will be a great place to catch the downtown show. We recommend hanging out at the upstairs bar (order a margarita, if that’s your thing) where there is no cover and flawless views of the Harbor.

UMBC Soccer Field
Catonsville
Catonsville puts on a fantastic fireworks show, which most people watch from the high school. But UMBC’s soccer field is a nice alternative. There was a teeny incident last year with the sprinklers, but maintenance crews promise they’ll remember to turn them off.

Wit & Wisdom
Harbor East
Wit & Wisdom’s new outdoor patio and bar space—that they just opened in the spring—is one of the prime viewing locations in town. Expect casual fare like BBQ ribs, fried chicken, grilled brats, and sangria.

here’s a ton of events for all ages on tap in Baltimore for the 200th anniversary of the War of 1812. Here’s a roundup:

Wednesday, June 13

Head for the harbor to see a massive fleet of 13 towering tall ships, with their uniformed sailors lined up on the yardarms, arrive in Baltimore. Add the modern warships visiting town and there’ll be close to 40 in all, and the biggest include such majestic vessels as the Cisne Branco, a 250-foot-long, full-rigged tall ship of Brazil; the Dewaruci, a 191-foot barquentine crewed by Indonesian Navy cadets; the Cuauhtémoc, a 270-foot tall ship from Mexico; the Colombian Navy’s four-masted (23 sails), 257-foot-long Gloria; the Guayas, a 257-foot long tall ship of Ecuador; and our very own USCG Barque Eagle, the 290-foot globetrotting ambassador and sail training ship of the U.S. Coast Guard Academy (Baltimore’s Curtis Bay Coast Guard Yard did the most recent refit of her), as well of lots of smaller ships like The Pride of Baltimore II and the Lady Maryland. The tall ships will be joined by modern warships from several countries and will be docked at the Inner Harbor, Fells Point, and Locust Point. Tours are available, but anyone touring a modern naval vessel will need to go through security similar to that at the airport, so leave your jack knife and ammo belt at home. Go to http://StarSpangled200.com/ for details about the participating ships.

Thursday, June 14 (Flag Day)

10 a.m.-4 p.m. Flag Day celebration at the Star-Spangled Banner Flag House , 844 E. Pratt St., 410-837-1793, info@flaghouse.org.

10:30-noon. Navy Ceremonial Band concert and welcome ceremony at the Inner Harbor Amphitheater. Starspangled200.com.

11 a.m.-6 p.m. Free Public Ship Tours in Inner Harbor and Fells Point, Sailabration Villages open, check sailbaltimore.org for details.

1 p.m.-5 p.m. Free public ship tours in North Locust Point, checkhttp://StarSpangled200.com/ for details.

Friday, June 15

11 a.m.-6 p.m. Free public ship tours in Inner Harbor and Fells Point. Sailabration Villages open, check http://StarSpangled200.com/ for details.

1 p.m.-5 p.m. Free public ship tours in North Locust Point, checkhttp://StarSpangled200.com/ for details.

Saturday, June 16

10 a.m.-5 p.m. Star-Spangled Festival and Aircraft Display at Martin State Airport, Eastern Ave, Middle River. The main attraction will be the six FA-18 Hornets, flown by the U.S. Navy¹s Aerobatic Demonstration team, the Blue Angels, and the C-130 (Fat Albert) flown by the Marine Corps. When the Blues land after the air show, pilots will be signing autographs. There also will be other FA-18s, a E-2C Hawkeye, a T-45C Goshawk, a T-6B Texan, a T-34C Mentor, a P-3C Orion, MH-53 Sea Stallion helicopter, TH-57 Sea Ranger helicopter, and a MH-60 Seahawk helicopter. The Maryland Air National Guard will have one of their A-10 Thunderbolt aircraft on display as will the Glenn L. Martin Maryland Aviation Museum. Aircraft will begin departing Martin for the show in the early afternoon.

11 a.m.-6 p.m. Free public ship tours in Inner Harbor and Fells Point. Sailabration Villages open, check http://StarSpangled200.com/ for details.

1 p.m.-5 p.m. Free public ship tours in North Locust Point. Sailabration Villages open, check http://StarSpangled200.com/ for details.

Afternoon TBD. Star-Spangled Air Show over Baltimore, featuring the Blue Angels. Best viewing location is Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine.

6-10 p.m. Celebration of the American Flag with concerts and fireworks at Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine.

Sunday, June 17

10 a.m.-5 p.m. Star-Spangled Festival and Aircraft Display, Martin State Airport. See Saturday description above.

11 a.m.-6 p.m. Free public ship tours in Inner Harbor and Fells Point. Sailabration Villages open, check http://StarSpangled200.com/ for details.

1 p.m.-5 p.m. Free public ship tours in North Locust Point. Sailabration Villages open, check http://StarSpangled200.com/ for details.

Afternoon TBD. Star-Spangled Air Show over Baltimore, featuring the Blue Angels. Best viewing location is Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine.

7-8:30 p.m. Star-Spangled Symphony by the BSO featuring the premiere of a new symphonic work, Meyerhoff Symphony Hall. Bsomusic.org

Monday, June 18 (Actual anniversary of the Declaration of War)

Morning TBD. 200th anniversary event.

11 a.m.-6 p.m. Free public ship tours in Inner Harbor and Fells Point. Sailabration Villages open, check http://StarSpangled200.com/ for details.

1 p.m.-5 p.m. Free public ship tours in North Locust Point. Sailabration Villages open, check http://StarSpangled200.com/ for details.

Tuesday, June 19

11 a.m.-1 p.m. Parade of Sail departure.

All weekend

On June 10, the Maryland Historical Society will open a new 1812 exhibition. The museum is at 201 W. Monument St., 410-685-3750. Check mdhs.org for hours, details.

Crystol Moll Gallery, 1030 S. Charles St., is hosting an exhibition of paintings, photographs and prints of Ft. McHenry, Flag House, and tall ships in honor or the War of 1812. May 23-July 7 with a reception June 15. See crystolmollgallery.com for details.

If you have 72 hours to spare and a craving to flop on the sand somewhere, you’ve got the makings of a mini beach vacation. Consider the possibilities. Get away with old chums to wine, dine, and ride the Slingshot in Ocean City. Treat the family to kayak trips at twilight and stories around the bonfire. Surprise your soul mate with a weekend of sun, spa treatments, and candlelight dinners.

If you do plan a long weekend at the Maryland-Delaware shore this summer, our proposed itineraries will help maximize your finite retreat without exhausting you in the process. Off you go . . .

OCEAN CITY FOR FRIENDS

Ocean City encompasses 10 miles of beautiful beach and is chock full of bars, an improving ratio of fine dining to all-you-can-eat buffets, and numerous lodging options. Beach-pal groups may like the bayside Coconut Malorie Resort (200 59th St., 800-767-6060, coconutmalorie.com), a luxury, all-suite hotel so close to the popular nightspot Fager’s Island that a footbridge connects the two.

Friday night
There’s nothing quite like nightfall set to the “1812 Overture.” Does this tradition ever get old? Nah. Join the revelers at Fager’s Island, Ocean City’s iconic bayside restaurant/bar/party scene (201 60th St., 410-524-5500). After toasting sunset on the deck, tell Tchaikovsky to snooze as you rev up with steamed shrimp, a DJ, and dancing.

Later, find your uptown vibe at Jive, (8203 Coastal Hwy., 410-524-1111), a bayside lounge noted for martinis and live music that’s mellower than those O.C. clubs whose names you dare not explain to children.

Saturday
Rise, shine, and bicycle the boards (the city has extended cycling hours on the boardwalk), or sign up your gang for morning surfing lessons at Malibu’s Surf Shop (8th St. and Boardwalk, 410-289-3000).

Regroup at Bayside Skillet (77th St. and the bay, 410-524-7950) for a healthy (by beach standards) breakfast of crêpes filled with house-made Chantilly cream and piled with just-picked fresh fruit like peaches, blackberries, and blueberries.

When you hit the beach, you’ll find more blanket-spreading space north of the boardwalk, but greater amusement opportunities closer to Route 50. Team up at Dorchester Beach Volleyball Park—10 sand courts between Dorchester and Talbot streets off the boardwalk—for a gals-versus-guys spike down.

For lunch, cool off beside Isle of Wight Bay (a Montego Bay wannabe) at Seacrets (117 W. 49th St., 410-524-4900), O.C.’s admittedly touristy outpost of Jamaicatude. Tame your hunger with fish tacos and jerk chicken cheese steaks. But beware: A couple coconuty, rum-drenched “Pain in de Asses” will torpedo your afternoon.

Dinner at Capt. Bill Bunting’s Angler Restaurant (Talbot St. and the bay, 410-289-7424) includes a free cruise. (Failure to heed the previous rum-drinks warning could be a problem.) This popular seafood emporium’s setting, adjacent to the bustling fishing-boat docks, is a nice bonus, too.

Park at the inlet lot and spend the rest of your night wandering the whirling, blinking, raucous, neon-lit funfest that is the boardwalk. Ride the Tidal Wave roller coaster, crash bumper cars, and bop Whac-A-Moles at Trimper’s (S. 1st St. and Boardwalk, 410-289-8617). Shoot Skee-Ball and virtual street race, The Fast and the Furious-style, at Marty’s Playland (Worcester St. and Boardwalk, 410-289-7271). Eat and shop your way northward. If you’re logy from OD’ing on Fisher’s caramel corn, Thrasher’s fries, and Alaska Stand funnel cakes, hop the tram back to your car.

Sunday
You have a big day ahead, so dig into a hefty helping of pancakes and scrapple at Layton’s Family Restaurant (16th St. and Philadelphia Ave., 410-289-6635, and 92nd St. and Coastal Hwy., 410-524-4200). Then, drive west over the Route 50 bridge, where your group may prefer to part ways.

Golfers who’ve reserved tee times can head to GlenRiddle Golf Club (11501 Maid at Arms Ln., Berlin, 866-441-4536) to play its 18-hole public course (Man O’War, the champion racehorse, was raised on a farm here). Other folks can rent kayaks and paddle where wild horses still reside along the shores of Assateague State Park. Island Adventure Kayaking (6905 Stephen Decatur Hwy., Berlin, 443-365-3967) offers rental kayaks and advice about exploring the wonders of Sinepuxent Bay.

Later, swap tales of birdies and bird-watching over dinner at Liquid Assets (9301 Coastal Hwy., Ocean City, 410-524-7037), a wine bar, shop, and bistro that takes its potables seriously. Buy a bottle of wine in the large, well-stocked shop and pair it with fried calamari or tuna burgers in the restaurant’s dining area.

Monday
It’s your last day so, what the hey, let your waistlines go at O.C.’s famous design-it-yourself doughnut shop, Fractured Prune. Pick a glaze, add a topping or two, and, voila, you’ve created your own Carmen Miranda of cake doughnuts—banana-glazed with coconut flakes and rainbow sprinkles. There are several locations, including 127th Street and Coastal Highway, 2808 Philadelphia Avenue, and Route 611 and Sunset Avenue.

After grabbing more rays, bid the beach adieu at Harrison’s Harbor Watch (boardwalk at the inlet, 410-289-5121), a restaurant and raw bar with windows aplenty for gazing fondly at one of Ocean City’s scenic views.

MORE BEACH FUN (FOR FRIENDS)

At Rehoboth Beach, Dewey Beach, and Lewes

Play
Duffers and volleyball weenies take heart. Your forte could be disc (Frisbee) golf (Cape Henlopen State Park, 15099 Cape Henlopen Dr., Lewes), outdoor oversized chess (First Street Station, 70 Rehoboth Ave.), or English darts (Rehoboth Ale House, 15 Wilmington Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 302-227-2337).

Indulge
Gals’ getaway? The Diva du Jour package at Bling Salon and Spa (17644 Coastal Hwy., Lewes, 302-644-2580) includes a facial, massage, nail care, and hair styling.

The 100-plus outposts of tax-free shopping in Tanger Outlets (36470 Seaside Outlet Dr., Rehoboth Beach) include a Bose Factory Store (302-226-1390) and a Sony outlet (302-644-8605).

Let the savvy staff at cozy Vine Wine Bar (211 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 302-226-8463) suggest perfect pairings for your tapas. Don’t miss Saturday night jam sessions at Dewey Beach landmark Bottle & Cork (1807 Coastal Hwy., 302-227-7272).

Eat
Brunch at The Starboard (2009 Coastal Hwy., Dewey Beach, 302-227-4600) boasts a bounteous Bloody Mary bar and a generous spread of pancakes, waffles, eggscetera.

Enjoy big sandwiches, myriad microbrews, and nachos at Arena’s deli/sports bar (149 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 302-227-1272).

It’s musical bar stools once the doors open at Fin’s (234 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 302-226-FINS), such is this retro fish house’s reputation. There’s a large dining room upstairs.

Pickled Pig Pub (18756 Coastal Hwy., Harbor Square, Rehoboth Beach, 302-645-5444) raises pub grub to new heights (herb-roasted pork shoulder with bacon-garlic fingerling potatoes). Dewey Dogs (1707 Coastal Hwy., 302-227-1104) serves chili dogs, corned beef sandwiches, and more till 2 a.m.

Worth Considering
From 8 a.m. to 2 a.m., the low-fare Jolly Trolley (302-227-1197) shuttles between the Rehoboth Beach Bandstand and the Ruddertowne restaurant/nightlife complex in Dewey Beach. Just in case you overindulge!

At Bethany Beach and Fenwick Island

Play
Get in the swing of things at one of Delaware’s most lovingly landscaped golf courses, the 18 holes (nine wooded, nine waterside) at Baywood Greens (32267 Clubhouse
Way, Long Neck, 888-844-2254).

Catch a wave or a bluefish at Fenwick Island State Park (Coastal Hwy., Fenwick, 302-227-2800), which offers several surf fishing areas and one of Delaware’s few designated surfing beaches. (FYI, surf anglers now need a fishing license.)

Indulge
Ready, swirl, and sip at Fenwick Wine Cellars, a new winery, tasting room, and gift shop (38016 Fenwick Shoals Blvd., West Fenwick Island, 302-436-1500).

Eat
Head toward the state border to sample fajitas and “tres-a-ritas” at Matteo’s Salsa Loco. The popular Bethany Beach restaurant/tequila bar has relocated to Fenwick Island (Lighthouse Plaza, 305 Coastal Hwy., 302-541-4911).

You can’t go wrong with brick-oven pizza. Classic or creative (like crab and wild mushroom with Brie), you can count on crispy-crust pies at DiFebo’s Bistro on the Green (Bear Trap Dunes, 7 Clubhouse Dr., Ocean View, 302-537-5600).

True friendship is sharing a mound of cheese-smothered Dune Fries at The Cottage Café (Coastal Hwy., Bethany Beach, 302-539-8710). Serving till 1 a.m.

Worth Considering
Bring a mat and towel for sunrise yoga sessions Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays (Bethany Beach boardwalk, 302-537-7838).

BETHANY BEACH, SOUTH BETHANY, OCEAN VIEW, AND FENWICK ISLAND FOR FAMILIES

Bethany Beach, South Bethany, Ocean View (aka West Bethany), and Fenwick Island comprise the less commercial “Quiet Resorts,” sort of Ocean City unplugged. Hotel/motel options are slim here compared to O.C., so families might consider a three-night “mini-vacation” rental in Sea Colony’s Oceanfront or Tennis Community properties (ResortQuest Delaware, 888-500-4254, resortquestdelaware.com).

Friday night
Join the party upstairs at Mango’s (97 Garfield Pkwy., Bethany Beach, 302-537-6621). This tropically themed boardwalk restaurant boasts unsurpassed ocean views, a big bar, kid-friendly food, and ample cool cred for teens. Dine early to claim prime seats for the 7:30 p.m. concert at the adjacent town bandstand.

Saturday
You won’t be the only ones eager for breakfast at The Cottage Cafe (Coastal Hwy., Bethany Beach, 302-539-8710), a Route 1 dining landmark, and you won’t be sorry either. Its weekend buffet is legendary, a satisfying mix of hearty, healthy, and sweetly sinful choices. Try the crunchy French toast.

Downtown, browse Garfield Parkway, Bethany Beach’s broad-but-brief main drag. Need some SPF50? Rhodes 5 & 10 (118 Garfield Pkwy., 302-539-9191) stocks sunscreen, beach chairs, newspapers, and other sundries that spill onto the sidewalk. Redecorating a teen’s room? Blue Room Gallery (123 Garfield Pkwy., 302-537-6617) sells retro beach posters plus kitschy nightlights and handcrafted furniture.

Bethany Beach’s municipal beach is convenient and clean, but can lack for elbowroom on weekends. An option: Head to nearby Fenwick Island State Park, a three-mile-long stretch of barrier island—with its own guarded beach—between South Bethany Beach and Fenwick Island (Coastal Hwy., Fenwick Island, 302-227-2800). En route, buy takeout sandwiches and other provisions at McCabe’s Gourmet Market (Coastal Hwy., York Beach Mall, South Bethany Beach, 302-539-8550). Eat at park picnic tables overlooking the ocean or bay.

Make a day of it by arranging a family eco-paddle through the shallow salt marshes of Little Assawoman Bay with Coastal Kayak (Coastal Hwy., across from the state park entrance, 302-539-7999). You may spy osprey, herons, and Delaware’s tiny armored army, horseshoe crabs, on your two-hour guided tour. (Advance reservations required, 877-44-KAYAK.)

By dinnertime, you’ll be ready to dig into a heap o’ steamed blue crabs (no relation to the horseshoes, which aren’t really crabs) or a hefty crab cake at Mickey’s Family Crab House (222 Jefferson Bridge Rd., Bethany Beach, 302-539-5384), a longtime local favorite for seafood and brewskies.

Sunday
Coastal Delaware’s stormy past begs exploring. Begin with mid-morning breakfast in Fenwick Island at Warren’s Station (1406 Coastal Hwy., 302-539-7156), housed in a replica of an old lifesaving station. This knotty-pine-paneled family restaurant has been dishing up eggs, chipped beef, biscuits, and home fries since 1960 (lunches and dinners, too).

Before the Life Saving Service, foundered ships stood little chance in the Atlantic’s unforgiving seas. Unearth these doomed ships’ tales at DiscoverSea Shipwreck Museum (708 Coastal Hwy., Fenwick Island, 302-539-9366), home to a stunning collection of centuries-old artifacts. Admire more maritime lore at Fenwick Island Lighthouse (Coastal Hwy. at Rte. 54; entrance on 146th St., Ocean City), an 1859 beacon and mini-museum at the Delaware-Maryland border.

Back in Bethany Beach, check out the Sunday night specials at Bethany Blues (6 N. Pennsylvania Ave., 302-537-1500), a rollicking, family-friendly barbecue joint noted for its authentic, hardwood-smoked ’cue. St. Louis-style pork ribs are a specialty.

All the better if a distant thunderstorm illuminates your eerie nighttime lantern visit to the circa-1876 Indian River Life-Saving Station north of Indian River Inlet (Delaware Seashore State Park, 25039 Coastal Hwy., Rehoboth Beach, 302-227-6991). Led by history-savvy guides dressed in traditional white uniforms and oilskins, the tours allow you to follow in the boot steps of the surf men who risked their lives. Registration required.

Monday
Plan your final beach day over a stack of buttermilk penguin cakes at The Penguin Diner (105 Garfield Pkwy., Bethany Beach, 302-541-8017), specializing in all-day breakfasts and all things penguin (not to eat!).

With fewer distractions, you can focus on the basics in Bethany Beach: sunbathing, swimming, and noshing beach food. Fall in line behind the bikini-and-baggy-shorts crowd lined up at Surf’s Up (302-539-5742), a beloved sub shop known for its cheese steaks, and D.B. Fries (302-537-0880), both in the brick-paved Bethany Town Center (Atlantic Ave. and Garfield Pkwy.).

MORE BEACH FUN (FOR FAMILIES)

In Ocean City

Play
Turn the kids loose for fun and games, then kick back for a flick at O.C.’s free movie nights (7:30-10:30 p.m. Fridays and Mondays, beach at 27th St.).

Hips, bowls, vert ramps, hit walls. They’re a mystery to you but not to young skateboarders, who’ll find them at Ocean Bowl Skate Park (3rd St. and St. Louis Ave., 410-289-2695).

Aspiring Danicas and Dale Jrs. can make tracks at Baja Amusements stock car, go-kart, grand prix, and rookie ovals (12639 Ocean Gateway, West Ocean City, 410-213-2252).

Indulge
Dish up dessert and listen to live tunes at Sundaes in the Park (Northside Park, 126th St. and the bay) from 6-8 p.m. on Sundays, of course.

Eat
Chicken nuggets for the kids, crab cake sliders for the grown-ups, corn for the ducks. Say what? Flock to B.J.’s on the Water (75th St. on the bay, 410-524-7575) at 1 p.m. daily and find out.

You and the kids can play in the sand at Fish Tales (21st and 22nd Sts. on the bay, 410-289-0990), a family-friendly marina-side restaurant/bar.

Ice cream mavens know that the go-to place for cones, shakes, and sundaes is Dumser’s (three Boardwalk locations; also Coastal Hwy. at 49th St. and 124th St.).

Order burgers and malted milk shakes at Rayne’s Reef in Berlin, an old-timey luncheonette featured in the movie Runaway Bride (10 N. Main St., 410-641-2131).

Worth Considering
For stripers’ sake, this is the ocean fishing capital of Maryland! Board a charter boat at Ocean City Fishing Center (12940 Inlet Isle Ln., 800-322-3065) and go ocean or bay fishing. Tight budget? Oyster Bay Tackle (116th St. and Coastal Hwy., 410-524-3433) rents rods and reels for fishing from piers and bridges.

In and around Rehoboth Beach

Play
Combine fun with a history lesson at Fort Miles, a World War II-era coastal defense outpost in Cape Henlopen State Park (15099 Cape Henlopen Dr., Lewes). Kids go wild for Cover and Concealment (capture the flag) and Code Breaking. Register at the park’s Seaside Nature Center (302-645-6852).

Learn to skimboard (for free) at Saturday morning sessions by Alley-Oop Skim (2000 Coastal Hwy., 302-227-7087) in Dewey Beach.

Let your tots storm the nautically-themed playground in Lewes’s beautiful new Canalfront Park.

Indulge
Join the countless kids, adults (including our Vice President), and canines who love to visit Browseabout Books (113 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 302-226-BOOK). Shop for
bestsellers, beach reads, toys, games, gifts, and calendars while Rover slurps from the courtesy water bowl outside.

Eat
The pizza debate is usually Grotto versus Nicola in Rehoboth Beach, but many natives pledge allegiance to Louie’s (11 Rehoboth Ave., 302-227-6002). Great cheese-steak grinders, too.

Crayons for the kids, trophy finfish on display for anglers, and fresh seafood for everyone at Big Fish Grill (20298 Coastal Hwy., Rehoboth Beach, 302-227-FISH).

Cream (201 2nd St., Lewes, 302-645-9425) remains the hometown favorite, hands-down.

Worth Considering
You can’t sleep on the Delaware beaches at night, but camping beside pillowy soft dunes at Cape Henlopen State Park (15099 Cape Henlopen Dr., Lewes) is a bargain for frugal families. Book your site months ahead, though, here or call 877-98-PARKS.

REHOBOTH BEACH, DEWEY BEACH, AND LEWES FOR COUPLES

Not all “lower, slower” southern Delaware beach towns—Rehoboth Beach, Dewey Beach, and Lewes—are created equal. Each one packs a special allure: Rehoboth Beach for dining and shopping, Dewey Beach for water sports and nightlife, and Lewes for history and salty charm. As for lodging, cozy breakfasts in a shady courtyard, couple’s massages, and an adults-only pool, make The Bellmoor Inn & Spa (6 Christian St., Rehoboth Beach, 800-425-2355, thebellmoor.com) an appealing choice for you and your true love.

Friday night
Slide into a cozy banquette at candle-lit Kindle (111 Bank St., Lewes, 302-645-7887), which has a winning nouvelle touch with comfort food. Toast with a romantic cocktail featuring St-Germain, a French spirit made with handpicked alpine elderflowers.

Saturday
Puzzle together over a crossword and a French press of steamy rainbow java at Hobos (56 Baltimore Ave., 302-226-2226), a new Euro-Mex-Mediterranean bistro/bar serving peripatetic palates in Rehoboth Beach.

Rehoboth is known as SoDel’s most urbane melting pot, so get your tans on alongside sand-worshipping singles, couples (straight and gay), families, and BBFFs (best beach friends forever).
Pre- or post-sunning, savor the signature Cuban pork sandwich or a luscious Brie BLT at Rehoboth Beach’s Café Solé (44 Baltimore Ave., 302-227-7107), a cheery eatery a block-and-a-half from the beach.

Forgot to pack something special for date-night dinners? Rehoboth Beach’s chic shops can bail you out, be it a little black dress at White House Black Market (First Street Station, 70 Rehoboth Ave., 302-227-6930) or a men’s shirt at South Moon Under (120 Rehoboth Ave., 302-227-3806).

Casually yet smartly attired, dine where the locals do on special occasions. Venerable, venerated Back Porch Café (59 Rehoboth Ave., 302-227-3674) serves upscale cuisine (veal sweetbreads, pan-seared halibut with whipped sweet potatoes) in a 19th-century cottagey setting (think Queen Victoria meets Key West). Love’s true light? The house liqueur-spiked coffee for two, flamed tableside.

After dinner, stroll Rehoboth Avenue, where shops remain open late, or join the merriment at the Purple Parrot (134 Rehoboth Ave., 302-226-1139), a neon-lit karaoke bar.

Sunday
Sleep in, then set your sights on Lewes and a post-noon brunch of sweet and savory crepes at Béseme (142 2nd St., in the Hotel Rodney, 302-645-8108), a bistro whose name means “kiss me” in Spanish. First, though, buy vino at the Nassau Valley Vineyards wine shop (32165 Winery Way, Lewes, 302-645-9463). In town, present said bottle (or another) to the folks at Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory (135 2nd St., 302-645-5528), and they’ll chocolate coat it for delivery that night to your lodgings. It sure trumps pillow mints. Feeling Adam and Eve-ish? The shop’s tart-sweet caramel apples are dipped in chocolate and drizzled with icing—not your granny’s county-fair fare.

More compact than Rehoboth Beach’s shopping district and more relaxed than the Route 1 outlets, Lewes’s shops feature clothing, antiques, artworks, games, flags, pet paraphernalia, and more. At Just for You (112 Front St., 302-645-0576), lapidary artists will wire wrap a treasured beachcombing find—a seashell or a bit of sea glass—into keepsake jewelry and ship it to you. (Hint, hint, gentlemen.)

For dinner, head to Dewey Beach, where romance comes with a view times two at intimate Two Seas (1300 Coastal Hwy., 302-227-2610). When you’re not gazing dreamily at your S.O., soak up romantic vistas of the ocean and bay, whence came your delectable dinner.

Monday
Fuel up on Greek omelets at the Crystal Restaurant (620 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 302-227-1088) and proceed to Atlantic Cycles (18 Wilmington Ave., 302-226-2543). Rent a tandem bike, and you can pedal as one along the boardwalk, but only until 10 a.m. Alternatively, cruise Rehoboth Beach’s broad side streets to scenic Silver Lake. Feeling really energetic? Get road bikes and glide through the countryside on the Junction & Breakwater Rail Trail connecting Rehoboth Beach and Lewes (12 miles round trip).

Break for an afternoon treat at Annie’s Banannies (9 1st St. South, Rehoboth Beach, 302-260-9875), where the sinfully yummy house confection is a frozen banana processed through Annie’s industrial juicer, then covered in your pick of toppings (try Nutty Banana with Peanut Butter).

Stroll Rehoboth Beach’s (mostly) quiet old neighborhoods. Don’t miss Henlopen Acres at the north edge of town, a woodsy enclave encompassing the Rehoboth Art League (12 Dodds Ln., 302-227-8408). The peaceful, three-acre campus includes studios, galleries, and the Homestead, a historic farmhouse-turned-gallery that’s open daily. Secluded benches and arbors in its charming garden will tempt you to linger. Alas, so will the prospect of driving home.

MORE BEACH FUN (FOR COUPLES)

At Bethany Beach and Fenwick Island

Play
Soar side by side as you get a gull’s eye view of the beach on a tandem parasail ride from Sharks Cove Marina (38931 Madison Ave., Selbyville, 302-436-8500).

Indulge
Jonesing for Facebook? Order chocolate-caramel lattes and surf the Web at The Artful Bean coffeehouse and gallery (20 Pennsylvania Ave., Bethany Beach, 302-541-8160).

Wrap yourselves in coastal quietude. Pull up Adirondack chairs, order some wine, and watch the sunset from Catch 54’s bayside deck (Rte. 54 at Madison Ave., Fenwick Island, 302-436-8600).

Eat
From lobster BLTs to Portuguese-style seafood stew, NorthEast Seafood Kitchen sure-handedly tweaks tradition (29 F Atlantic Ave., Ocean View, 302-537-1785).

Grownups need gourmet escape. In Bethany Beach, try Sedona (26 Pennsylvania Ave.,
302-539-1200).

Patsy breaks out the cast-iron skillet once a week on Sundays to make her mama’s Southern fried chicken at Patsy’s Restaurant (121 Campbell Pl., Bethany Beach, 302-537-2433). Try it with waffles.

Worth Considering
Take a walk on the wilder side at Bethany Beach Nature Center’s informative promenade through inland bay wetlands (807 Garfield Pkwy., 302-537-7680).

In Ocean City

Play
Canoodle for the camera in an arcade photo booth or get giggly on the Ferris wheel at Trimper’s Rides (S. 1st St. and Boardwalk, 410-289-8617).

Indulge
Enjoy the royal treatments at Robin Walter Salon and Day Spa (11007 Manklin Creek Rd., Berlin, 410-208-2576). The ultra-pampering spa packages include facials and Swedish massage.

Take a twilight stroll in Sunset Park on South Division Street. Enjoy each other’s company plus sweeping views of the ocean, bay, and harbor.

Eat
Fresco’s (82nd St. at the bay, 410-524-8202) reflects the décor, the cuisine (lobster fra diavolo, anyone?), and the ambiance of Italy—with idyllic bay vistas.

Decisions, decisions. Galaxy 66 Bar & Grille (6601 Coastal Hwy., 410-723-6762) makes dessert choices difficult with its decadent chocolate box for two and chocolate lust martinis.

With budgets pinched to the penny, “staycationers” are clicking their flip-flops and murmuring, “There’s no place like close to home.” Three hours away, Ocean City and Delaware’s gold coast—from Fenwick Island through Bethany, Dewey, and Rehoboth beaches to Lewes—offer a collective 30 miles of seaside escapism that you can’t afford not to pursue.

So stop cringing over the state of your portfolio and take a gander at all the beach has to offer this summer, including what’s new, what to do, where to eat meals, and where to find deals.

OCEAN CITY

A long pearly strand of beach; miles of ocean in which to fish, splash, and play; a power grid of boundless beachgoer energy that could light the entire boardwalk—Ocean City is Maryland’s original destination for summer distraction.

Little wonder then that “O.C.” has become the Big Cheese of Maryland and Delaware beaches, offering more beachfront (10 miles), boardwalk (three miles), and capacity for vacationers (including about 25,000 condo units and 10,000 hotel rooms) than any one of its neighbors. Add to that figure nearly 100 more rooms when the four-story Courtyard by Marriott Ocean City (boardwalk at 15th St., 410-289-5008) and Hotel Monte Carlo’s new luxury efficiency suites (at the hotel’s second location, 11th St. and Baltimore Ave.) open this summer.

“A lot of hotels are holding the line on prices this year,” says Donna Abbott, public relations director for the Ocean City Convention and Visitors Bureau. That’s welcome news for one of O.C.’s most loyal and budget-conscious constituencies—families. Think there’s no way two adults plus two kids times one day “downyocean” costs less than $250? Way, claims AOL Travel, which named Ocean City one of the top 10 family vacation values on the East Coast last year (the only beachy place on the list).What enables such fiscal restraint? One factor is the town’s numerous opportunities for entertainment on the house: complimentary concerts Sundays and Wednesdays, free flicks on the beach Mondays and Fridays, freebie Olympics for all ages on Tuesdays, and bonfire programs on Thursdays. (See ococean.com for a schedule.) By Saturday, you can afford to dust off your wallet and spring for a night at a mini-golf course or a movie megaplex.

And don’t forget the distractions lining O.C.’s back side, the mix of refined dining and rollicking bars, fishing piers and water parks, crab houses and charter-boat docks that line Assawoman and Isle of Wight bays—not to mention the shopping, dining, and recreation waiting just over the Route 50 bridge in West Ocean City.

Diversions
You can thrill to rides even wilder than the Dow Jones’s undulations at Trimper’s Rides and Amusements (boardwalk between S. Division and S. 1st streets), an O.C. fixture for more than a century. A spin on the Inverter, the Tidal Wave, the Freakout, or one of 40 other rides can be as hair-raising as today’s headlines. (But this screaming is pleasurable.)

Prefer to get your kicks on the ocean? Hop aboard a speedboat for a thrilling ride along the coastline. Dolphins often cavort alongside these excursion boats’ turbo-charged engines. The Sea Rocket leaves from Bahama Mama’s pier (Isle of Wight Bay at Wicomico St., 410-289-3499) and OC Rocket from Talbot Street Pier (Isle of Wight Bay at Talbot St., 410-289-3500).

GPS on your golf cart? The entire fleet at Ocean City’s seaside municipal course, Eagle’s Landing (12367 Eagles Nest Rd., 410-213-7277), was outfitted with the gizmos last fall.

You’ve seen the T-shirts, now imbibe at the saloon that started it all. Dusk is the ideal time to visit the gazebo at M.R. Ducks Bar & Grille (Talbot St. Pier on the bay, 410-289-3503). Order a Chug-a-Duck (light beer and an Amaretto shot in a duck decoy-shaped drinking vessel).

Dining
When it comes to food, there’s nothing more comforting than tradition. And in Ocean City, tried and true is trendy once more.

The Captain’s Table closed its doors about five years ago. Now, the casual restaurant, popular for its macadamia-encrusted halibut and stuffed shrimp, returns this summer as part of the new Courtyard by Marriott Ocean City (boardwalk at 15th St., 410-289-5008).

Liquid Assets Wine & Martini Bar (9301 Coastal Hwy., 410-524-7037) has added an $8 lunch combo to its menu that will appeal to the budget-and-portion-conscious. The restaurant will also offer free beer/liquor/wine tastings regularly (check la94.com for a schedule).

The times they are a-changin’ at Crab Bag (13005 Coastal Hwy., 410-250-3337), the bayside crabhouse that has been serving blue crabs and Natty Bohs since the ’70s. The restaurant has expanded and greatly broadened its menu, while the crabhouse (now called Back of the Bag) has moved to the rear of the building and expects to add a tiki deck this summer. There’s also a new produce/seafood/carryout market and a raw bar, where co-owner Albert Levy suggests you try the oysters shucked and char grilled in-house.

You can’t get more classic than a Smith Island cake, a six-to-12-layer yellow cake chinked with chocolate-fudge icing. Sample a slice—or take home an entire cake—at the Original Smith Island Cake Company, a new bakery and dessert cafe in the Ocean City Factory Outlets (12741 Ocean Gtwy., West Ocean City, 410-213-2253).

West Ocean City is getting another Chesapeake favorite on Route 50—Boog Powell’s World-Famous Pit Beef Ball Park Bar-B-Q. The eponymous eatery of the O’s beloved first bagger joins Boog’s first O.C. location at 401 S. Atlantic Avenue.

Deals
Restaurant Week (May 31-June 7) returns for its third year—at 2007 prices. Graze the gourmet offerings of such establishments as Galaxy 66 Bar & Grille (66th St. and Coastal Hwy., 410-723-6762) and Marlin Moon Grille (12806 Ocean Gtwy., 866-213-DINE) at hold-the-line fixed fees: $30 for three courses, $20 for two. Some chefs offer wine pairings for a modest additional charge.

Information
Ocean City Convention and Visitors Bureau and Department of Tourism, ococean.com, 800-OC-OCEAN (800-626-2326).

FENWICK ISLAND

The southernmost of Delaware’s resort beaches, demure Fenwick Island does seem, in many ways, an entire state removed from its high-profile southern neighbor, Ocean City. True, it possesses O.C.-like amenities: a clean, patrolled beach; an amusement and water park; a variety of restaurants and tiki bars; a maritime museum; and modern marinas, water sports, and eco-tours.

But it’s quieter here, more relaxed. There’s an appealing innocence about Fenwick that brings childhood vacation memories rushing back. Maybe that’s because it’s graced with endangered species: a cavernous family-owned-and-operated seafood house, a general store stocked with candies and cheeses and Christmas ornaments; and an architecturally significant Dairy Queen—unlike numerous old cottages here—has survived for half a century.

All the more reason, believes Winnie Lewis, chairwoman of the town’s Cultural and Historic Preservation Subcommittee, to keep those memories alive for residents and beachgoers alike. So Lewis and her committee are soliciting old photos to be digitally preserved and planning the first Old Fenwick Island Days to ensure that future generations won’t forget Fenwick’s timeless charms.

Diversions
Immerse yourself in southern Delaware’s stormy past by visiting the
Fenwick Island Lighthouse (143rd St., 302-436-8100), whose beacon alerted mariners to the barrier island’s treacherous shoals for more than a century. The landmark lighthouse is celebrating its 150th anniversary this summer. Although visitors aren’t permitted to climb inside the structure, volunteers (some, like Lewis, descendants of former keepers) share light-keeping lore.
Couple your lighthouse visit with a tour of the nearby
DiscoverSea Shipwreck Museum (708 Coastal Hwy., above Sea Shell City, 302-539-9336), and you’ll appreciate the beacon’s raison d’etre. The museum’s collection of salvaged shipwreck booty speaks volumes about the hazards of pre-lighthouse navigation.
With water, water everywhere, you’ll find recreation options aplenty. The twisting “black hole body slide” at Viking Golf Amusements’
Thunder Lagoon Waterpark (Rte. 1 at Rte. 54, 302-539-4027) looks like something Dr. Seuss conceived, and nothing’s more refreshing on a sizzling summer day than a volley of water shot from the park’s hard-to-miss water feature, a teeter-tottering Viking ship.
Rent the watercraft of your choice: kayaks and sailboats at
Coastal Kayak (Rte. 1, Fenwick Island State Park, 302-539-7999), which also offers lessons and guided kayak tours; waverunners and pontoon boats at Action Watercraft Rentals (142nd St. Marina, 302-537-6500); and kayaks, waverunners, and fishing boats at Sharks Cove Watersports (Sharks Cove Marina, Rte. 54, 302-436-8500).

Dining
The island fare at newcomer
Jammin Jon’s Island BBQ (38015 Fenwick Shoals Blvd., West Fenwick, 302-436-7427) is Caribbean-influenced (think jerk seasonings and coconut conch chowder), but you can order native foods, too. Try Fenwick clam fritters or the Crab Daddy Burger, the eatery’s signature crabmeat-stuffed hamburger served with a tropical, avocado-mango cream condiment.
Old Eastern Shore meets boomer retro chic at
Catch 54 (Rte. 54, 302-436-8600), a casual seafood restaurant overlooking Little Assawoman Bay. Chill to bay breezes and Beach Boys’ melodies while you enjoy traditional Delmarva dishes with a twist such as fried oysters and chicken salad, broiled crab cakes, and fresh-caught fish.
The folksy
Fenwick Crab House Restaurant (100 Coastal Hwy., 302-539-2500) earns kudos for its steamed crabs and hefty backfin crab cakes.

Deals
The
Freeman Foundation’s Summer Stage Series brings city-caliber performing arts to Fenwick’s bayside community. Best of all, the concerts, musicals, plays, and operas are free. Call the Summer Stage Hotline at 302-436-3015 for a schedule.

Information: Bethany-Fenwick Area Chamber of Commerce, bethany-fenwick.org, 800-962-SURF, 302-539-2100.

BETHANY BEACH

Bethany is the tapas bar of Delmarva beaches, offering vacationers just enough of everything they ask of the shore without the risk of overindulging. More a neighborhood than a town, convivial Bethany and its fellow “Quiet Resorts” (including South Bethany, Ocean View, and Fenwick Island) form the serene center of the vortex that swirls around Ocean City and the Rehoboth and Dewey beaches every summer. The families and laid-back souls who vacation here year after year may enjoy their easy access to more high-powered fun, but they prefer to stay at a slower place.

Marked by the red-cedar totem pole that towers over its entrance, Bethany’s downtown business district is small and strollable, measuring maybe two-by-two—blocks, that is. This means you won’t have to walk far to find what you need within a four-block radius. Gourmet markets, day spas, shopping plazas, and several state parks and nature preserves are a short drive away.

Even on cloudy days, you may want to wear shades as you stroll Bethany’s boardwalk, a compact one-half-mile long. The town’s shingle-style bandstand and information center are kept so spic and span they virtually gleam.

Between them, Bethany and South Bethany offer seven miles of white sandy beach, which typically becomes a colorful jumble of umbrellas, bathing suits, and beach towels on summer weekends.

Diversions
Whether you prefer your golf small, medium, or supersized, the Quiet Resorts have links to your liking. Young and old can enjoy
Captain Jack’s Pirate Golf (21 N. Pennsylvania Ave., 302-539-1122), the only miniature golf course in Bethany Beach. “A course you can play without devoting the day!” proclaims Salt Pond Golf Club (400 Bethany Loop, 302-539-7525) of its 18-hole, par 3 and par 4 course targeted to beginning and intermediate players. Bear Trap Dunes Golf Club (7 Clubhouse Dr., Ocean View, 1-877-BEARTRAP) offers 27 challenging holes, many of which incorporate natural sand dunes.
Got surf?
Bethany Surf Shop (99 Garfield Pkwy., 302-539-6400) will make sure your wave time isn’t wasted. They offer surfing lessons and surfboard, bodyboard, and skimboard rentals.
There’s more to the shore than the ocean. The shallow, protected waters of Bethany’s “back bay,” Indian River Bay, are ideally suited for kayaking, sailing, fishing, windsurfing, and exploring. Take a leisurely sunset cruise with
Back Bay Tours (Harbour View Marina, Ocean View, 302-388-1915), whose crew also offers scenic daytime cruises, flounder-fishing trips, and sandbar exploration tours.
Here’s a way to save money: Supply your own seafood. Visit
Holts Landing State Park, a 200-acre facility in Millville on the shores of Indian River Bay, to try your luck at the crabbing pier, dig clams from the muddy shoreline, or fish for flounder, bluefish, sea trout, and other species by boat or from shore.

Dining
Begin—or end—your day with a Baltimore omelet (jumbo lump crabmeat, tomato, and Swiss cheese) or a syrup-slathered stack of Penguin cakes (buttermilk or buckwheat) at
The Penguin Diner (105 Garfield Pkwy., 302-541-8017), a cheery breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot in downtown Bethany.
Curbside ‘cue? In downtown Bethany, parking can be a problem at the height of summer, so
Bethany Blues BBQ Pit (6 N. Pennsylvania Ave., 302-537-1500) offers curbside pickup for most carryout orders. You can also get drive-up ‘cue at Bootsie’s Bar-B-Q(95 Atlantic Ave., Ocean View, 302-539-9529), a carryout stand on Route 26.
Diners familiar with the former Magnolia’s restaurant in Ocean View likely won’t recognize its casual fine-dining successor. Its reincarnation,
Magnolia’s Seafood Bar & Grill (30415 Cedar Neck Rd., Ocean View, 302-539-5671), serves steaks and seafood in some pretty stylish digs. The upstairs dining room is bright and airy, though fairly traditional in décor. It’s the club-like downstairs lounge, with its oyster bar, plasma TVs, and tropical fish tanks that’s causing the big buzz.
Other than beach cam, there’s no better vantage point from which to survey Bethany’s beachfront than
Mango’s (Garfield Pkwy. and the boardwalk, 302-537-6621). Go topside to the deck, order a Mangorita (that’s a margarita plus mango juice), and let the steel drum music carry you away.

Deals
The staff at
Delaware Seashore State Park and Indian River Life-Saving Station (Rte. 1, 302-227-6991) have brainstormed oodles of inexpensive programs to educate and entertain: stargazing on the beach, surf fishing classes (tackle and bait provided), marine science boat tours, and even squid dissection.
Pack a lunch, take your camera, and head west off Route 1 to explore a pair of little-known back bay preserves open to the public at no charge. Pick up a map at
Assawoman Wildlife Area (37604 Mulberry Landing Rd., Frankford, 302-539-3160) to follow a self-guided auto tour of this sanctuary located three miles southwest of Bethany Beach.

Information: Bethany-Fenwick Area Chamber of Commerce, bethany-fenwick.org,800-962-SURF, 302-539-2100.

DEWEY BEACH

Surf in the Atlantic. Sailboard in Rehoboth Bay. Meet in the middle to party. Dewey Beach, Rehoboth’s youthful southern neighbor, is only about a mile long and a couple blocks wide, but all the better to pack the most into a summer getaway.

If you are what you drink, then the under-thirtysomethings who flock to Dewey Beach can be neatly profiled by the Bullshark. It’s a favorite libation at The Starboard (2009 Highway One, 302-227-4600), a popular restaurant/bar celebrating its 50th anniversary this summer. A mixture of vodka, champagne, two kinds of fruit juice, and Red Bull, the cocktail captures Dewey’s fun-loving, high-energy, endless summer lifestyle.

Dewey’s wide, recently replenished beach is a magnet for sunbathers and surf anglers, not to mention skim and surfboarders. (Don’t look for a boardwalk, there is none.) On the other side of town, the bay is just right for parasailing, sailboarding, and kayaking. In between lies Route 1 (Coastal Highway) and its festivity-sustaining collection of beach bars, music venues, eateries, and sports shops.

Much to the relief of local folk, Dewey’s “party central” reputation is slowly changing. The resort town offers a greater range of dining options now and has targeted more activities for families. One plan would convert a large rental hall at Ruddertowne, the dining-drinking-shopping complex in the heart of Dewey, into a kid-friendly “fun center.”

Diversions
Whether you want to catch a wave or the wind, Dewey is the place to do it.

Get a lift from
Dewey Beach Parasail (113 Dickinson St., 302-227-9507) for a gull’s eye view of the shore. It’s the ultimate spectator sport. Or harness the wind and waves on a kiteboard. East of Maui (104 Saint Louis St., 302-227-4703) and H2air Kiteboarding(1701 Coastal Hwy., 302-227-1105) will outfit you and refer you to qualified instructors for lessons (a must for newbies).
Pretend you’re a 19th century surfman (or woman) scanning the sea for stranded ships as you take a nighttime kerosene lantern tour at the
Indian River Life-Saving Station Museum (Rte. 1 in Delaware Seashore State Park, 302-227-6991). The costumed interpreters who lead the way tell shipwreck stories taken straight from the station’s logbooks and guaranteed to shiver your timbers.
No Dewey Beach vacation would be complete without sampling the nightlife. Join the crowds at
Bottle & Cork (1807 Highway One, 302-227-7272), the classic club that has booked such live shows as the Dave Matthews Band, Matchbox 20, Ziggy Marley, Buddy Guy, and Blondie. Founded in 1936, the Cork even predates rock ‘n’ roll.

Dining
Dig into fried chicken and a mess of home fries at
Jimmy’s Grille, a new diner-style restaurant slated to open in late May on Route 1 at Bellevue Street (next to Bottle & Cork). Name sound familiar? The eatery is a cousin to the Bridgeville “Jimmy’s” that has enticed beachgoers off Route 13 for years with its homemade pies, cakes, and other comfort foods.
Take in a bay sunset with housemade guacamole, a plate of molé-drenched chicken enchiladas, or maybe just a glass of aged tequila at
Que Pasa (124 Dickinson St. at the bay, 302-226-1820), the Mexican restaurant that debuted last summer at Ruddertowne. Diners have their pick of indoor or outdoor cantina seating.
Whatever the weather, you can dine beneath the stars at
Ponos (1306 Coastal Hwy., 302-227-3119), a Hawaiian-themed, fine-dining restaurant whose ceiling sparkles celestially with fiber-optic lights. Sample Kona coffee-braised short ribs and surf entrees such as macadamia-encrusted opaka while “Tiny Bubbles” drifts from the sound system. In this, its sophomore summer, the restaurant is adding Hawaiian sushi to the menu. Rationing your meal money? Nalu Hawaiian Surf Bar and Grille (302-227-1449), Ponos’s tiki bar-like sister, serves lighter fare at lower prices in an equally enticing but more outdoorsy setting.

Deals
Bonfires and beanbag toss for the kids, lacrosse and volleyball for teens. Dewey offers a range of free or low-cost evening beach activities. The town’s budget squeeze may affect some programs, so check websites for up-to-date information.
deweybeachpatrol.comand beach-fun.com.

REHOBOTH BEACH

Cottages painted in tropical fruit hues. Riders swooshing by on vintage bicycles and Vespas. Diners sampling seafood in twinkly lighted courtyards. As seaside destinations go, downtown Rehoboth Beach reminds us of a small, resort-like Caribbean island.

This one-time Methodist camp colony exudes affluence, free-spiritedness, and genteel family festivity. Its groomed and lifeguarded beach lures as many as 80,000 visitors on summer weekends. Its mile-long boardwalk is flanked on one side by a traditional array of beach lodging, food, amusement, and shopping options, and on the other by reversible benches from which to watch the scenery on “the boards” or the sands.

But explore its one-square-mile downtown, and you’ll note Rehoboth’s other persona, reflected in the urbane appeal of businesses such as the new, boutique Hotel Rehoboth (247 Rehoboth Ave., 877-247-7346, 302-227-4300) and Cultured Pearl restaurant (301 Rehoboth Ave., 302-227-8493), transplanted to a downtown rooftop complete with koi pond, waterfalls, and lots of bamboo. Rehoboth boasts day spas and nightclubs, shabby chic bungalows, and B&Bs lining pine-shaded side streets; an emphasis on fine dining over fried foods; and a tolerant mix of straight and same-sex couples.

We know you didn’t come to the beach specifically to shop, but should you succumb, the number and variety of purveyors in downtown Rehoboth make it an enticing prospect. So does Delaware’s lack of sales tax.

And if that’s not enough rainy day distraction, the Route 1 corridor offers movie theaters at Midway Shopping Center (29 Midway Shopping Center, 302-645-0200) and factory stores galore at Tanger Outlets (three Coastal Highway locations, 302-226-9223).

Diversions
At least once, while you’re here, arise before the sun, stumble eastward, and head for the beach. There, you’ll share an eye-opening ocean sunrise with the handful of joggers, dog-walkers, street cleaners, and canoodling couples awake (more or less) at this hour. Best of all, it’s free.

Meander Rehoboth’s trio of browse-worthy boulevards—Rehoboth, Baltimore, and Wilmington avenues—and the pedestrian alleys linking them. Shop for home swag like Simon Pearce glassware and Vurv designer doggie bowls
at Mod Cottage (247A Rehoboth Ave., 302-227-7277), tie-dye skirts and hemp jewelry at Sunshine Octopus(149 Rehoboth Ave., 302-227-8674), or French-milled spa soaps and retro ice bags (think hangover relief) at Lotions & Potions (46 Baltimore Ave., 302-227-1511). Among the newcomers to Rehoboth’s main drag are The Shops at the Pearl (301 Rehoboth Ave.), several retailers offering a range of merchandise from fine wines (Bin 66, 302-227-6966) to resort wear (Pineapple Princess, 302-227-8705) to, yup, venti cinnamon dolce Frappuccinos (Starbucks, 302-227-3682).
Cycling is big in Rehoboth. If you didn’t bring bikes, rent them and peddle north to the three-to-six mile
Junction & Breakwater Trail at the southwestern edge of Cape Henlopen State Park.
Hit the boardwalk for cheap thrills and chills at
Funland (boardwalk at Delaware Ave., 302-227-1921), a favorite of vacationers since the 1930s.

Dining
The shore’s culinary hotspot, Rehoboth never lacks for pedigreed chefs and excellent restaurants. Last year proved a particularly good vintage, introducing such keepers as Matthew Haley’s
Lupo di Mare (247 Rehoboth Ave., 302-226-2240), the Hotel Rehoboth’s 73-seat restaurant serving classic coastal Italian cuisine and showing vintage movies on the flat-screen TV (new this summer: Italian Sunday brunches); Jay Caputo’sPorcini House (210 Second St., 302-227-6494), a comfy bistro with a flair for truffles that inhabits Chez La Mer’s former cottage (don’t miss its très cool Treetop Lounge); and Sean McNeice’s Stingray (59 Lake Ave., 302-227-MISO), the vibrant sushi bar and Asian-Latino grill, whose fusion appetizers include grouper ceviche served with crispy wontons and fish tacos spiked with chipotle sour cream and sriracha chile sauce.
But the number of “upscale” options may have crested for now in Rehoboth with frugal diners trying to downsize the cost of eating out. This summer’s newcomers emphasize small plates or big values. The glitziest addition is
Saketumi (18814 Coastal Hwy., 302-645-2818), a sleek sushi lounge and Asian restaurant on Route 1, whose name dares diners to sample appetizers like torched tuna (with jalapeños, red tobiko, chives, and spicy ponzu sauce).
Downtown, the new
Rehoboth Ale House (15 Wilmington Ave., 302-227-2337) will price its seafood, steak, and pasta dinners between $10 and $22, says owner Hugo Mazzalupi, adding that the menu “will not cater to the gourmet crowd.” The restaurant, although not a brew pub, will dispense 14 beers on tap and almost 100 different domestics, imports, and microbrews in bottles—a lure, Mazzalupi hopes, for the “happy-hour crowd coming off the beach.”
In pub news, the owners of Pig + Fish, a well-known downtown eatery, have plans to open the
Pickled Pig, a British-style “gastropub” at 18756 Coastal Highway. AndDogfish Head Brewings & Eats (320 Rehoboth Ave., 302-226-BREW) is importing yet another Brit tradition: cask ale. Every Thursday, this brew pub—noted for its wood-grilled pizzas—taps a cask of naturally carbonated beer and keeps pouring cool (not cold) ones until the cask is kicked.

Deals
Get your tunes for free Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights at the
Rehoboth Beach Bandstand, Rehoboth Avenue and the boardwalk. (rehobothbandstand.com for schedule).

Information: Rehoboth Beach-Dewey Beach Chamber of Commerce, beach-fun.com, 800-441-1329.

LEWES

Founded by Dutch seafarers in 1631, Delaware’s oldest town remains more port town than resort town. Don’t get us wrong. Vacationers enjoy sunning and swimming along the wild, windswept seashore at adjacent Cape Henlopen State Park, but the heart of Lewes (pronounced Loo-iss) still belongs to Delaware Bay and the Lewes & Rehoboth Canal.

No more than six blocks square, downtown Lewes is Delmarva’s own Nantucket, filled with cedar-shingle houses, art galleries, antiques stores, friendly cafes, wine bars, gourmet shops, and practicing preservationists, who have saved an impressive number of 17th-, 18th-, and 19th-century buildings.

Diversions

You can launch an adventure a day here. Board a sightseeing boat at
Fisherman’s Wharf (next to Lighthouse Restaurant, Lewes & Rehoboth Canal drawbridge, 302-645-8862) and watch for dolphins and whales along the coast. Charter a deep-sea fishing trip at Anglers Fishing Center (Anglers Marina, 213 Anglers Rd., 302-644-4533). Book a ride with the Delaware River & Bay Lighthouse Foundation to tour Harbor of Refuge and Delaware Breakwater East End lighthouses (Lewes Ferry Terminal finger pier, 302-644-7046). Lighthouse tours offered monthly: June 27, July 25, Aug. 22, and Sept. 12.
For a taste of Lewes lore—ordinary and extraordinary—visit the properties operated by the
Lewes Historical Society (110 Shipcarpenter St., 302-645-7670), including the Cannonball House & Marine Museum (118 Front St.), struck by a British projectile in 1813.

Dining
And
Kindle makes three. The Milton fine-dining restaurant is relocating from the Shops at Paynter’s Mill to 111 Bank Street, replacing Books by the Bay Café. It plans to retain its contemporary-American dinner menu and add lunches.
Bethany Blues BBQ Pit (18385 Coastal Hwy., 302-644-2500) brings its signature wood-smoked St. Louis ribs and other slow-cooked favorites to a new Route 1 location in Lewes. And back for its second season, Hopkins Farm Creamery (18186 Dairy Farm Rd., 302-645-7163) serves ice cream the way you remember it.

Deals
It’s worth a few guilders alone to see the interior of the intriguing
Zwaanendael Museum (102 Kings Hwy., 302-645-1148), the highly ornamental replica of a Dutch town hall that houses a museum dedicated to Lewes and Sussex County history. But admission is free (donations accepted) to view the town, lighthouse, and shipwreck. Enjoy owl prowls, night hikes, WWII gun battery tours, seining trips, and other nature and history adventures at Cape Henlopen State Park—all for $5 or less per person. (See Henlopen’s summer program schedule at destateparks.com).

Information: Lewes Chamber of Commerce, 877-465-3937, leweschamber.com.

THE BEACH BUCKET LIST

Twenty things you just have to do at the shore this summer!

1. Kayak the “back bays” at sunset.
2. Parasail at Ocean City or Dewey Beach.
3. Ride the giant Ferris wheel in Ocean City on a moonlit night.
4. Take the car ferry from Lewes to Cape May, NJ.
5. Drink Orange Crushes at the Lighthouse’s “taco toss,” Friday nights in Dewey Beach.
6. Play mixologist at the Starboard’s Bloody Mary smorgasbord in Dewey Beach.
7. Sip and bob on the floating chairs at Seacrets in Ocean City.
8. Toast sunsets to Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture at Fager’s Island, Ocean City.
9. Get 1950s nostalgic with a milkshake from Dumser’s in Ocean City.
10. Nosh on Thrasher’s french fries on the boardwalk.
11. Munch on Cottage Café’s “dune fries” in Bethany Beach.
12. Test the eternal pizza challenge in Rehoboth Beach: Grotto vs. Nicola.
13. Feast on Fenwick Crab House’s all-you-can-eat crabs.
14. Reel in a big fish aboard a charter boat out of Ocean City, Indian River, or Lewes.
15. Surf fish in the seashore state parks.
16. Toast marshmallows over bonfires on the beach.
17. Experience karaoke night at the Purple Parrot in Rehoboth Beach.
18. Make the music scene at Ruddertowne or the Bottle & Cork in Dewey Beach.
19. Practice your spirals at the Carousel Hotel’s indoor ice rink, Ocean City.
20. Stand astride Maryland and Delaware along the Transpeninsular Line at the Fenwick Island Lighthouse.

Wielding one of the more out-of-place objects you’ll find in South Africa’s Kruger National Park—a cell phone—Karen Ashley was describing to a colleague back home days six and seven of a two-week “she-fari.” If it’s possible to sound utterly relaxed and terribly excited in the same breath, the fearless leader of an adventurous group of women did.

“I’m sitting under a tree with a glass of wine in my hand, and we’re watching an elephant grazing in the shallows upriver,” she said. “We’ve only been here [in Kruger] a day and a half, and we’ve already seen things wildlife photographers wait a lifetime to see.”

During their first 36 hours in one of Africa’s most famous game reserves, the travelers had driven upon the aftermath of a lion kill attended by numerous vultures lurking in a tree nearby, seen a group of hyenas menacing a lone lioness too aged or ill to flee her tormentors, and watched a noshing pachyderm, a large bull, from one of the most spectacular vistas on the trip.

The elephant was clearly visible from where the women sat in a hilltop camp perched several hundred feet above a bend in the Olifants River, which winds through the northern portion of this 217-mile-long park. The view from the safari skybox was breathtaking, they said.

Karen, who grew up in South Africa and whose accent still bears traces of her homeland, had enticed her friends for years with tales of home and her return visits to this vast and culturally diverse country. When they suggested that her South African background made her a natural tour leader, she organized the All-Girls Safari (more familiarly, AGS) and brought five seasoned travelers, among them her daughter Tamzin Smith, the group’s official photographer, to South Africa for their first visit. The mission: a convivial group exploration of the country’s rich culture, art, history, fauna, and flora from Kruger in the northeast bushveld to the Cape of Good Hope on the southwest coast. The caveat: no husbands allowed.

By trip’s end, the “girls” (ranging in age from 41 to 65) had covered probably 2,000 miles by mini-bus, rental car, SUV, airplane, cable car, and a variety of practical footwear. An ambitious, logistically complicated itinerary any male would be proud to complete, theirs also allowed ample time for shopping and getting to know one another.

Lodgings ran the gamut from a luxury resort and spa in the Magaliesberg Mountains northwest of Johannesburg to the simple thatch-roofed huts, called rondawels, in Kruger, where the women grilled boerewors (the Afrikaans’ spicy “farmer sausage”), drank fine South African wines (the official beverage of the AGS), talked, laughed, and gazed nightly at the velvety, star-stippled blackness of the African sky.

For 15 days, “we didn’t have to worry about whether our husbands were having a good time. It was all about us,” said Elizabeth “Betty” Royer (aka “Miss Kitty”), an Annapolis resident whose accounting skills earned her the role of managing the communal purse strings and calculating exchange rates.

The women went where they wanted, lingered as long as they wanted, even enjoyed a bit of solitude if they wanted. “We just rolled with it,” said Connie Schroth, a semi-retired educator and one of four Eastern Shore residents on the trip. “It was gratifying to see how well we got along and managed.”

On safari, they became even more adventurous, more self-reliant. Not well-known—many of them—to one another, they went to Africa and became a supportive, carousing circle of new-found friends.

I was supposed to be the seventh member of the All-Girls Safari. But four days before the flight to Johannesburg, my immune system packed its bags and headed elsewhere, leaving me with a bad case of the flu that progressed into viral meningitis.

It’s an odd feeling to reach the eve of one’s Trip of a Lifetime and then abruptly pack it in. My initial disbelief (I rarely even catch a cold!) ran headlong into deep disappointment.

Optimistically, I rebooked my South African Airways flight, intending to join the group in Cape Town 10 days late. But Plan B was scrubbed after the only place I landed was the hospital.

So I’m telling the story of the sisterly safari through my sixth senses: Karen, Tamzin, Betty, Connie, Chris Hauss, and Nancy Bennington. Generously, they’ve shared their impressions, stories, journal entries, and photos—hundreds and hundreds of photos—so that I can recount their adventures.

Pre-Trip

Sunday brunch is a civilized way to plan any trip, and we had two such gatherings at Karen’s home in Chestertown, where we dragged out maps, flipped through guidebooks, agonized over our itinerary, and debated the pros and cons of various antimalarial drugs.

About the size of Texas, California, and Pennsylvania combined, South Africa has 11 official languages, three different capitals (one for each branch of government), and widely varying climates more common in a continent than a country: arid in the northwest, subtropical in the northern mountains, Mediterranean in the coastal south.

Personal interests established our three-part itinerary.

Karen, a graphic designer and owner of a graphic/advertising service, and several others were keen to explore South Africa’s vibrant arts scene. Through local connections—Karen’s sister Ingrid, an art professor at Tshwane University of Arts and Technology in Pretoria, and Ingrid’s friend Sue, a member of the National Craft Council of South Africa, both of whom would join us for part of the trip—special visits were arranged to galleries, an embroidery factory, and remote village cooperatives west and south of Mpumalanga and Limpopo.

What’s a safari without wildlife watching? The Kruger National Park near the Mozambique border is South Africa’s oldest game reserve, where we were able to book two-night stays at a pair of the park’s self-catering rest camps—Olifants (oo-li-fahnts, Afrikaans for elephants) in the northern region and Skukuza, the park’s largest camp, in the southern. From these comfortable bases, we’d set out each day on self-guided safaris.

For the final leg of the trip, we would fly southward to Karen’s hometown, Cape Town, where we would rent a vacation house near the beach. With magnificent Table Mountain as a backdrop and the Cape of Good Hope at its front door, this is South Africa’s most beautiful city. It’s also a fount of national history, the place where Dutch traders established the first colony in 1652 and where majority rule finally came to South Africa with the election of Nelson Mandela’s African National Congress party 15 years ago.

A South African Journal

Day two: After getting settled in on the first day, the AGS’s first close encounter is with Africa’s beloved symbol, the elephant. These massive creatures, keenly intelligent and deeply social, are perhaps too beloved in South Africa. Their protected population has grown beyond sustainability, according to the government, which earlier this year approved a controversial program to cull the herd. At the Elephant Sanctuary in Magaliesberg, the experience of observing, touching, and walking hand in trunk with these gentle, remarkably silent-moving giants (nicknamed the Ghosts of Africa) can move you to tears. And there’s nothing like being on the receiving end of an elephant smooch: “like a vacuum cleaner that’s wet and dirty,” explained Tamzin.

Day three: The AGS arts safari began in the former gold-rush town of Graskop, where guests at the unconventional Graskop Hotel and gallery can literally sleep with the artwork. Owner “Pancake Harrie” Siertsema, crêpe impresario and collector/patron of contemporary South African art, had young artists—abstract and pop, photographers, printmakers, a glassblower, a wood worker—decorate the B&B’s distinctive Artist Rooms, whose original decor challenges guests’ perceptions of their environment, not to mention their imaginations. Forget pancake notoriety; one AGSer dubbed Harrie “the Medici of South Africa.”

Day four: It’s a truly memorable day as the ladies call on local craftswomen and dance the night away, African style. Handmade crafts are an important source of income for the residents of many South African communities. At Kaross Embroidery, talented seamstresses use tiny stitches and bold colors to render fanciful elephants, giraffes, crocodiles, birds, trees, and other folk images inspired by nature on strikingly handsome textiles.

Most tourists bypass the long, dusty roads that lead to local artists’ cooperatives like the remote potters’ village to which Ingrid and Sue guided the group. Too bad. Everyone agreed it was one of the more rewarding encounters of the trip: watching the women at work, getting to know them, tossing a ball with their sweet, shyly smiling children.

The Tsonga Kraal open-air museum, the day’s final stop, replicates a native village as it looked a century ago. The “interpreters” are members of today’s Tsonga tribe. As their special guests, the group was treated to a feast and ritual dancing by the village sangoma (shaman) and tribal women, whose skirt ruffles were, in traditional fashion, covered with beads. With a slight shake of the hips, the dancers would set the beads in motion. “The next thing you know we’re all out there,” conga-lining around the fire until 2 a.m.—apparently the first white visitors to participate in the dance, Karen said. “I didn’t want the night to end. It was the most amazing experience I’ve ever had.” Likely so for several of the Tsonga as well. While the others were shaking their beads and booties under the brilliant light of the Milky Way, Chris, who lives in Chestertown but hails from Europe, was teaching the locals to waltz.

When the Americans reluctantly departed, they received a soulful send-off, Karen said: “a farewell song chanted by a group of African women as they accompanied us down a bush trail in the dark to where our cars were parked.”

Days six to nine: The women go into deepest Africa. Spreading across two northern provinces, the Kruger National Park is now part of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, which, when completed, will allow wildlife and tourists to roam freely between the South African preserve and smaller parks in neighboring Mozambique and Zimbabwe. Visitors can drive their own (closed) vehicles through Kruger, but must obey several rules, paramount among them: stick to the roads, stay in your vehicle, and get back to camp before the gates close. (The rest camps are encircled with electrified fences, which are closed at night to keep out predators.)

The prize of any Kruger safari—guided or self-driven—is to spot the Big Five (elephant, lion, rhino, cape buffalo, and leopard), which the AGS accomplished over a span of four days. There were plenty of other sightings, too: nearly 60 different species of animals, birds, and reptiles (including hippos, waterbucks, kudus, giraffes, wildebeest, warthogs, steenboks, eagles, hornbills, and crocodiles).

Cooking and dining took place on the rondawels’ covered patios. Everyone pitched in to make dinner, usually accompanied by a few bottles of South Africa’s very reasonably priced wines (50 rand—about $7—buys excellent quality). Nights were pure magic. “We went to sleep listening to the rushing [river] and the sounds of hippos and lions roaring back and forth,” Nancy said.

Days 11 to 13: Kruger has its Big Five, but Cape Town has the “Big Six,” a half-dozen must-see attractions in and around the city. The safari sisters visited five of them in three days. (Not that women keep track of such things.)

Table Mountain, the 3,563-foot-high slab of sandstone—reached via revolving cable car—that affords sweeping views of city and sea; it’s home to rock-dwelling critters such as black girdled lizards, the spitting image of a crocodile in miniature.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden on the eastern slopes of Table Mountain, a world-renowned floral kingdom exhibiting one-third of South Africa’s plant species.

Groot Constantina, a truly vintage vineyard/estate (established in 1685), whose Manor House and Cloete Cellar exemplify the finest in Cape Dutch architecture, a legacy of the Cape’s early settlers.

Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town’s working harbor and shopping/entertainment district, where craftspeople sell their wares in open-air markets and you never know who you’ll encounter. (Would you believe a man with his pet seal?)

Cape Point, which is not, as some mistakenly believe, the southernmost tip of Africa. Visitors standing atop this jagged, windswept promontory between the Atlantic Ocean and False Bay just feel like they’re riding the prow of the continent. (The Cape of Good Hope forms the western end of the peninsula.)

To round out Cape Town tourism’s Big Six, travelers can take the ferry boat departing the V&A Waterfront for Robben Island, where the prison in which Nelson Mandela and other political dissidents were held has been converted into a museum telling their story.

Day 14: You can’t enjoy South African wine without visiting its source. The university town of Stellenbosch, east of Cape Town, is the acknowledged wine capital of South Africa, the heart of a region known as “the winelands.” The AGS visited three wine estates: ultra-chic Dornier, whose industrial, anti-Cape Dutch design reflects the tastes of its surrealist-painter founder Christoph Dornier; stately, historic Vergelegen, which 10 years ago hosted presidents Bill Clinton and Nelson Mandela with their first ladies; and Karen’s favorite, Muratie, which wears its musty old-worldliness proudly.

When it comes to Africa, I suspect we’re all hopeless romantics. Connie placed traveling there on her “to do” list at age 50: “Finally getting there was a dream come true. Going there with a native South African gilded the lily.”

South Africa remains on my list now more than ever. But next time I’ll heed a line I’d forgotten from one of Karen’s trip-planning e-mails: “Hamba kahle.” It means “go well” in Zulu—or maybe “don’t forget your flu shot.”

In the northern ranges of the Pocono Mountains are provinces stubbornly referred to as the Delaware Highlands and Lake Wallenpaupack. They are sans crowds and mercifully without the kitschy, old-time, family-style resorts, thus sustaining their natural beauty and exclusivity. It is here that you will find three getaway retreats only four hours from Baltimore. Their innkeepers have just one request: Please don’t mention the word “Poconos.”

The Lodge at Woodloch

The kids are away. My husband wants to play. “Isn’t there a camp for us?” he’s wondering aloud.

Well, envision an upscale, adult-only, lakeside retreat in pristine mountain woodlands. With great digs. And extreme activities. Intense workouts and gourmet food. Soulful leisure pursuits. And the dreamiest spa on the East Coast. Yeah, where?

“Welcome!” The guard in the gatehouse of The Lodge at Woodloch, just outside of Hawley, Pennsylvania, greets us with a smile through her sliding window. She points toward a compound that more resembles a progressive nature retreat than the tony spa resort we are anticipating. “You’ll drop your car with the attendant at the front door,” she gestures, “and the place is yours.”

Ahead of us, the sprawling Lodge, constructed of indigenous stone, camouflaged timber beams, and large windowed spaces, suits its mostly undisturbed rural surroundings: white pine forest, natural lakefront, and assorted, rambling native undergrowth.

As promised, two valets rush toward our approaching car. They greet us with smiles and inquiries about our trip. One swiftly collects the car and our bags. The second escorts us inside. The natural light pouring into the foyer from the mammoth windows and skylights lends credence to the distinctive green-and-taupe hues so prevalent throughout the region. The glorious outdoor environment of the northern Pocono Mountains has been extended indoors and enhanced with climate controls.

We are introduced to the receptionist, who has clearly been expecting us. She presents us with customized activity packets. Each one includes an itinerary, class schedule, and a guide that details Woodloch’s programs and spa services. Unexpectedly, she abandons the reception desk to escort us to our room via a personal tour of the Lodge.

Woodloch’s on-site owners and developers, Ginny and John Lopis, were consultants to top destination spa resorts around the country, including Canyon Ranch, before masterminding their own place. They deem Woodloch “the new generation” in destination spas. One innovation is their reservation process, which assists guests in pre-booking their treatments and classes so that they can jump right into the scheme upon arrival.

We spot guests everywhere, donning nothing more than workout clothing or a spa robe, even in the dining room. Someone is even sprawled out on a sofa reading a book. Soon we are in our room, where our bags are waiting. Though the quarters are beautiful—a king bed with Egyptian cotton linens, a marble shower with a rain-head spigot, flat-screen TV, and a patio overlooking the lake—we don’t want to lose one moment from our activities. First on my itinerary is aqua toning (water aerobics), and my husband is scheduled for bicycling. We walk to the spa together, and with 30 minutes to spare, we agree to meet up in the co-ed aqua garden.

The Woodloch spa is the resort’s nucleus, the site for most classes and treatments. Arguably, its most spectacular spot is the aqua garden. It houses a heated pool for laps, volleyball, and water aerobics in a glassed-domed gazebo room. There is also an outdoor horizon-edge whirlpool with a radiant-heat deck inviting year-round use. But I have my eye on the bi-level soaking pools with hydro-massaging waterfalls. I stand under the falls and nod at my husband. He presses the switch and races to join me. Waves of pulsating ecstasy cascade over our heads, shoulders, and backs. Heaven.

Limbered up, we part for our individual locker rooms for juice before our classes, and plan to meet for lunch. The men’s and women’s areas both have saunas, steam rooms, indoor and outdoor hot tubs, and fireplace lounges with tea bars. The floor below has 27 treatment rooms, 14 massage rooms, and six facial rooms. Upstairs are mind/body studios for yoga, aerobics, and mat classes, a dedicated Pilates training area, and a fully equipped cardio-weight studio.

That afternoon, I scheduled Woodloch’s signature “Awakening the Senses Body Treatment.” It involved selecting a scent (lilac) and a light filter (yellow for sunshine, but it didn’t matter, my eyes were covered with a mask). Then, I was buffed with sea salt and masked twice (the second time wrapped in cellophane), and showered before a final lotion application. While I was definitely “awakened,” I found the multistep process too distracting to relax, plus the sea-salt body rub was rough on my skin. Next time, I’d opt for a simpler massage or an herbal facial.

There are a range of resort activities: On-premise choices include kayaking, row boating, fishing, and hiking. Championship golf and tennis can be arranged at a private club across the street. Excursions for hikes, tubing, and rafting are available at an additional cost. Woodloch has its own art studio offering drawing and painting classes. Often in the evening, there are speakers, a fire circle for storytelling, and a drum circle.

The Lopises’ approach to cuisine is progressive-minded. Diverging from traditional “calorie counting,” they focus on a gourmet dining experience that is healthful and organic. Accentuated is moderation in portion size, though guests may request additional servings. Superfoods—like berries, melons, squashes, salmon, and soy—are incorporated within meals that include red meats, chicken, fish, and vegetarian choices. There is even an international organic fine wine and beer list.

Breakfast and lunch include a variety of choices from a menu, or, for dinner, from a tapas bar. Our lunch entrées included chicken with raisin curry, tomato eggplant and mozzarella, salmon with coconut lime sauce, and turkey sesame wasabi wraps. Desserts and natural sodas are also offered. Every afternoon, there is high tea with, yes, healthy cookies. In the evening, there are bedside chocolates at turndown.

If you go: Take Interstate 83 north to 81N to 380S to 84E to Exit 30, Blooming Grove. Make a left onto Route 402N and follow to the end. Make a left onto Route 6W, then a right on Route 590E; follow 6.5 miles to the entrance of The Lodge at Woodloch, 866-953-8500, thelodgeatwoodloch.com.

Digs: Packages include room, three meals a day, gym access, classes, and a $115 daily spa allowance for $450 to $1,085 per person per night. Additional spa treatments are available a la carte.

Hotel Fauchère

High above my head, Andy Warhol is kissing John Lennon. I quickly check my vital signs and then pinch myself. Nope, I am not in heaven (or the alternative), and I am not dreaming. I’m in Bar Louis, the highbrow bistro in the basement of Hotel Fauchère in Milford, Pennsylvania. The place feels at once cosmopolitan and artsy.

The mesmerizing photograph of Warhol and Lennon is one of only three in the world, a gift from the photographer to Sean Straub, current owner of the hotel. It hangs on the exotic anigre wood wall behind the bar and monopolizes the ‘scape and conversation of every patron. Just then, our waiter places chef Michael Glatz’s sushi pizza—ahi tuna and spicy tobiko sauce on a crunchy tempura rice crust—in front of us. Once again, I’m thinking that I might possibly be in heaven.

Straub didn’t intend to go into the hotel business. A onetime successful publisher of specialty trade magazines, he and his business partner Richard Snyder were on a personal mission, restoring the town of Milford to its heyday of the early 1900’s, environmentally, economically, and culturally. In 2001, they learned that the historic 1880 Italianate hotel was at risk of being torn down and decided to take on the project. The result is a carefully renovated Hotel Fauchère.

Hotel Fauchère was founded by Louis Fauchère, the Swiss-born master chef of the original Delmonico’s in New York City. In the 1860’s, he brought his wife and daughter, his cooking mastery, and famous recipes (like lobster Newberg, baked Alaska, and eggs Benedict) to the Delaware River Highlands and launched a restaurant called The Delmonico Room inside his new hotel. Over the years, it attracted socialites and celebs such as Charlie Chaplin, the Rockefellers, Robert Frost, and the Carnegies. The hotel and restaurant remained a family operation until superhighways and major rail routes bypassed the town, inspiring easier access to other destinations. The establishment was abandoned in 1975.

Straub’s restorations of the traditional and classic 19th-century motif in the common areas are impressive. He insisted upon preserving the original bead-board ceiling, chestnut floors, and the magnificent mahogany and walnut banister. Lining the walls throughout the hotel is Straub’s ever-growing personal collection of Hudson River School artwork. The exception is Fauchère’s original pub in the basement, which Straub renovated into an urban, chic milieu for casual dining.

The number of guest rooms has been reduced from the original 30 to 16 to accommodate new, colossal bathrooms. They offer amenities like radiant heat in the Pennsylvania bluestone bathroom floors, heated towel racks, Bose docking stations, flat-screen TVs, and lilac-scented Frette linens. Think you’ve heard it all? Straub insists that the bed sheets are ironed by hand so that guests have a pampered getaway experience. He and partner Snyder wanted to eliminate experiences that they themselves detest at hotels, namely “being nickel and dimed.” That means Fauchère guests can count on not “being sold” anything in the room and receiving complementary local telephone calls, fine chocolates, a bottle of wine, and Wi-Fi access.

In the Zagat-rated Delmonico Room, chef Glatz has refined some of Fauchère’s Delmonico recipes with adventurous ingredients and herbs and added an international wine list. Breakfast includes homemade granola, fresh-baked pastries, and locally roasted coffee.

In 2009, the Victorian house next door will be renovated into a spa and reception rooms for weddings and events.

Straub encourages his guests to venture around Milford, an adorable town filled with antiques, or he will arrange for private trout or fly-fishing and llama treks on his property. Within five to 10 miles are a slew of breathtaking, protected natural waterfalls, and establishments that provide rafting, canoeing, and tubing expeditions.

If you go: Take Interstate 83 north to 81N to 84E to 380 to Route 6 directly into Milford. Turn left on Broad Street. Fauchère is at 401 Broad St., 570-409-1212, hotelfauchere.com.

Digs: Rooms are $275 to $350. You won’t need much more than your toothbrush—rooms are chock full of amenities. Hint: Some may prefer a room with a marble shower rather than a claw-footed tub.

You will need to: Make dinner reservations at The Delmonico Room or Bar Louis in advance of arrival.

Don’t miss: Forest Hall Antiques—in a 1907 French Normandy-style building filled with fine antique furnishings and artwork (214 Broad St., 570-296-4299, foresthallantiques.com); The Columns, the county historical museum, where the blood-stained flag that was placed under Abe Lincoln’s head after his assassination is on display (608 Broad St., 570-296-8126,pikehistory.org); Raymondskill Falls, just 10 minutes from town and spectacular—only four feet shorter than Niagara Falls.

The French Manor

A fairytale castle appears perched atop Mount Huckleberry in Sterling, Pennsylvania. But following the winding driveway, it becomes clear that this is a copy of a French château, constructed of local fieldstones, an imported Spanish slate roof, and a Romanesque-arched entryway by craftsmen and artisans of German and Italian descent.

Inside, the décor doesn’t disappoint. Mining magnate Joseph Hirshhorn created this private retreat, modeled after a château in the south of France, so he could enjoy the solitude of the mountains and the serenity of Mother Nature. It was privately purchased and revamped into a B&B in 1984, retaining the original character and intrinsic features that Hirshhorn designed. It was sold again in 1990 to Ron and Mary Kay Logan, who also kept its architectural charms. Each room is unique, dressed in French provincial finery. Beds are triple-sheeted, and there are plush and frilly seating areas.

Still, there are modern creature amenities like DVD players and Wi-Fi. Most rooms have working fireplaces, two-person Jacuzzi tubs, and unobstructed balcony views of 20 miles of mountain forestry. A bottle of sherry and a plate of fruit and French cheese await guests. Godiva bits are left pillowside at turndown, and French pastries are served at teatime in the dining room.

The French Manor’s restaurant currently holds the only AAA four-diamond rating in the Delaware Highlands. Plan to dress for dinner; jackets are usually required for men. The dining room, daunting with its 40-foot vaulted ceiling and two massive fireplaces, exudes the ambiance of a winery in the French Alps. The menu is classical and nouvelle French cuisine with an impressive international wine list.

One spectacular signature dish is filet mignon Napoleon, a char-broiled filet layered with sautéed lobster, mushrooms, and a pastry crouton, and napped with a cognac lobster cream.

The French Manor’s staff is known for its flair in customizing afternoon excursions and weekend packages involving golf, hiking, horseback riding, tennis, lakeside swimming, tubing, and kayaking. There is also antiquing, historic sites, and restored towns and villages within a short drive. The kitchen will even prepare a gourmet picnic lunch for the journey.

If you go: Take Interstate 83 north to 81N to 80E to 380N to Exit 8, Tobyhanna. Take right onto 423N to 191N. Turn left onto Huckleberry Road. Driveway to The French Manor is at the top of the hill. 570-676-3244, thefrenchmanor.com.

Digs: The basic bed-and-breakfast rate for The Carriage Room House ranges from $165 to $340, but ask about the customized packages, many of which include dinner.

You will need to: Make dinner reservations in advance.