Belvedere Square – Baltimore Magazine https://www.baltimoremagazine.com The Best of Baltimore Since 1907 Mon, 18 Mar 2024 19:15:38 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/cropped-favicon-32x32.png Belvedere Square – Baltimore Magazine https://www.baltimoremagazine.com 32 32 Zen and the Art of Chocolate Making https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/jinji-fraser-ethically-sourced-chocolate-baltimore/ Mon, 18 Mar 2024 14:00:14 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?post_type=article&p=154639

Food & Drink

Zen and the Art of Chocolate Making

In a swirl of spices and cocoa powder, Jinji Fraser comes into her own.

By Jane Marion

Photography by Justin Tsucalas

March 2024
OPENING SPREAD: Jinji Fraser stands in front of the wares at her new chocolate shop in Waverly, where she sources goods from her favorite cacao-growing regions.


a crisp fall day, sunlight spills through the nearly floor-to-ceiling windows inside Jinji Chocolate at the corner of Greenmount Avenue and 31st Street in Waverly. The circa-1873 Classical Revival-style building, with its Greek temple-like form, was once the neighborhood’s official town hall—a bustling political and civic centerpiece for the surrounding community. And in many ways, a century and a half later, the function of the space hasn’t changed.

Owner Jinji Fraser swings through the kitchen door of her charming confectionery to tend to patrons who’ve come in to buy truffles or fudge or, in some cases, nothing at all—many flock just to spend time with Fraser, who warmly greets each guest from behind the glass display case. “Are you a neighbor?” she asks some. “Is this your first time visiting?” she asks others.

Jinji’s Chocolate is a chocolate shop, first and foremost, filled with rows of truffles with currants and cranberries, piles of Tuskegee pecan turtles, lines of peanut butter fudge, and trays stacked with Turkish figs stuffed with peanut butter ganache. But ever since opening last October, it’s also quickly become a community hub, whether that means collaborating with neighbors like Local Color Flowers for an edible flower class, hosting a traditional mole dinner with Neopol Smokery, or providing a place for local musicians to perform as patrons stand at the high-top table and enjoy the vibe over cups of hot drinking chocolate.

Fraser has a laugh.

“I love that feeling—of making a big city into a small town,” says Fraser. “I like to think our chocolate shop does that. . . . I don’t want people to come here when they’re in a hurry. I want them to come in, enjoy a drink, look around, and make a friend. Chocolate is such a communal thing—it should be a shared experience.”

Long before cacao percentages or artsy chocolate-bar labels became a trend, the ethereal 5-foot, 9-inch Fraser was building a loyal following at her small 80-square-foot stall in the Belvedere Square Market in North Baltimore. There, she became known for her responsibly sourced, mindfully made small-batch chocolates, and for imbuing her business with the kind of good intentions and positive spirit that can be a rarity in such a complicated industry—and world.

Of course, Baltimore has its share of established chocolatiers, such as the century-old Wockenfuss Candies in Parkville and Rheb’s Candies in Violetville. But Fraser, now something of a one-name wonder, is doing something entirely her own.

Unlike chocolatiers who work with ready-made chocolate, Fraser makes her own chocolate from scratch, from cacao butter and cacao powder processed at origin, or from cacao beans that she roasts and grinds on-site in Waverly.

But there’s more that makes her stand out from the pack. Not only is the 40-year-old, first-generation chocolate maker a Black woman in a white-male-dominated industry, but her interest in taking chocolate back to its indigenous roots—with a focus on ethical and sustainable practices—makes her a standout in a small-but-growing community of chocolate makers working to forge a more equitable future in their field.

“Chocolate is a very colonized industry,” she says. “But we can change that reality by being true to what chocolate has always been meant to be.”

To that end, Fraser imports her beans, some 800 pounds, from Golden Beans Estate, a small, female-owned, family-run farm that grows and hand-harvests their beans in Cedros, Trinidad, while cacao butter, cacao powder, and cacao nibs are purchased from Peru.

“A cacao tree will take five to seven years to reach maturity before it produces fruit,” she says. “The cacao pod is then pulled down by a machete and cracked open by hand, then the beans are all gathered in a heap and fermented over nine days and sun-dried in huge flat beds for about a week, depending on the humidity and weather, and then scooped into sacks and shipped out to wherever they are going—and all along, hands are touching the beans all the time...all the time.”

When the beans travel from Trinidad to Greenmount Avenue, they arrive in a large blue barrel with enough raw cacao beans to last many months. Over time, the beans will get roasted and ground into chocolate before being transformed into bars, while cacao butter and powder and nibs are turned into truffles, fudge, drinking chocolate, and other edible works of art.

Fraser tries to educate her customers about the fact that mass-produced, bulk-bean chocolate is manufactured from premade, often low-grade, highly processed chocolate that has been melted down. Combined with additives to keep it shelf-stable, mass-produced chocolate has little in common with craft chocolate, which preserves the raw natural flavors of the cacao, with other natural ingredients only included as a complement.

“We want to be truthful about what we are doing, and for us, that means so many things—the land itself hasn’t been overcrowded and has been carefully diversified,” says Fraser, alluding to the associated benefits for the health of the soil (and in turn the plants and then their beans). “It means that the people working there are getting paid in a way that they can take care of their families and that they have access to various resources when they need them. All those things are just obvious ways of being human and treating people decently.”

Above all, Fraser hopes her chocolate—rich, smooth, subtly sweet, and earthy—speaks for itself. “Our hope is that people taste the story the chocolate tells of the land and of the people who take care of the land and harvest the cacao,” says Fraser. “The chocolate itself has such a pure and distinct flavor. There’s a feeling that you get of, ‘Oh, this is something different.’”

The same can be said of the shop itself, a larger space that has afforded Fraser the freedom to stock shelves with stacks of the bean-to- bar white chocolate that now sit alongside home goods like embroidered pillows from Guatemala, handmade mugs from Mexico, and textured jugs from Peru, reflecting some of her favorite cacao-growing regions. “The space is literally 10 times as big as what we started with,” she says, “but we knew immediately how we were going to fill it.”

Of course, there’s also now plenty of workspace for her tiny, tight-knit team, which includes her father, Guy, who handles the bookkeeping; her husband, Paul, a BGE heavy equipment operator, who helped build the shop’s interior and is the on-call Mr. Fix-It; and her best friend and general manager, Jonathan Seton, who leads production.

Though only five months old, the chocolate shop has been a long time coming. Fraser dreamed of one day owning her own brick-and-mortar, and after years of searching for the right space—interrupted by the pandemic and the home birth of her son, Stokely—she finally happened upon the former city hall. And it was love at first sight.

“The light, the windows, the doors, it all felt very charming,” she says. “We almost signed a lease in Lauraville on April 1, 2020, but not moving until now was a silver lining.”

Scenes from the various stages of the chocolate-making process.

Relaxing in her airy Lauraville cottage, Fraser sits at her kitchen table surrounded by items that matter to her most: There’s a beaded black-and-white African runner that hangs on the wall, rows of plants on the windowsill, handmade wooden bowls and boards leaning against the counter, family photographs, and a medley of books, including chef Gabrielle Hamilton’s memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter, on a kitchen shelf.

Her pride-and-joy black matte Ducati motorcycle is parked out back in the shed. (“I know it sounds like a cliché, but it’s just you and the wind and freedom,” she says.) Her cozy front porch has two wicker chairs and a well-worn saucer swing strung from the mammoth oak tree on the front lawn. The whole effect reads idyllic oasis.

Wearing a black T-shirt and black leggings, shoeless and makeup-free, the chocolate maker exudes a centeredness and sense of mindfulness that’s so rare, she could teach a master class in calm, even as the mother of an energetic three-year-old who loves drums and dinosaurs. As she reflects on her four decades, she is philosophical. “A lot of days, even if it doesn’t materialize in front of my eyes, something is working, something is happening,” she says between sips of green tea. “I have learned just to trust time.”

Fraser is a big believer in letting life unfold, but thanks to hard work, she’s also made it happen for herself. “There’s the entrepreneurial, analytical, and driven part of her,” affirms general manager Seton, “and having the business fills that side.” But she also believes in astrology and numerology, like when she met her husband, Paul, in 2016, and saw the triple threes in his street address—her lucky number—as a “little nod from the universe.” Fraser acknowledges that can sound a bit woo-woo, but balancing pragmatism with a belief in magic helps her see the meaning in life. “I think those things can coexist,” she says. “I can be a logical, pragmatic person, and I can also believe in magic—and that’s a lovely way to live.”

Jinji taking some family time with her father, Guy, and son, Stokely.

Fraser’s life began in Heidelberg, Germany, where her father worked for the Army. “I don’t remember it, but I just know I had a good start,” she says. Back in the States, Guy got a job at Aberdeen Proving Grounds and the family moved to Joppatowne in Harford County, where Fraser spent her childhood.

Those formative summers of her youth were spent with extended family in Tuskegee, AL (mom Margaret’s hometown), where she fondly recalls riding in the back of pickup trucks, swimming in lakes, and eating popsicles. “I saw Black life in a way that I never would here—the culture, the food, the language,” says Fraser. “Having that time to learn about my family through this lens was important. Joppatowne was very whitewashed, but I had my friends and sports and school. I loved both places.”

Enjoying a warm hug with her husband, Paul, and Stokely.

Fraser’s path to chocolate-making was anything but linear. At various points, she dreamed of becoming a professional swimmer, kindergarten teacher, and even a fighter pilot. (“I was like, ‘There are no women doing that and it looks like a lot of fun,’” she says with a laugh.) Competitive swimming, however, was her primary pastime. She was recruited for the elite North Baltimore Aquatic Club (NBAC), which she participated in through high school at the McDonogh School in Owings Mills. In 2001, she attended the University of Indiana Bloomington on a full swim scholarship and majored in communications and culture with a minor in criminology. “I really had this fascination with the prison and criminal justice system, thinking I’d work somewhere in that world,” she says.

After graduation in 2005, Fraser landed a job at the nonprofit Maryland Center for Arts and Technology doing job training for out-of-school youth. (It’s also where she met Seton.) A year later, she became a certified holistic health counselor through the Institute for Integrative Nutrition in New York City and bounced between jobs, including one gig at a high-end hair salon in Baltimore. None of these paths stuck, she says, because she had yet to find her purpose. “I was in my 20s and lost and numb and settling for this world that wasn’t mine,” she says.

Seeing her promise and potential, a salon client tried taking Fraser under her wing. “When I was washing her hair, she’d say, ‘Why are you doing this? What are you doing here?’” Eventually, the client secretly slipped Fraser her contact information, telling her to reach out when she was ready to make a change. “One day, I was like, ‘I’m just going to call.’ Something in me knew there was another path.”

That woman was Jeanne Mirchin, who introduced Fraser to her husband, Matthew Mirchin, a bigwig at Under Armour. Ultimately, she was hired as an executive assistant for the company’s co-founder, Scott Plank. “I had no experience whatsoever,” says Fraser, “but I had discipline and was a hard worker and a quick learner.”

As part of her role, she participated in outreach programming at the nonprofit Living Classrooms, teaching out-of-school youth about nutrition. After three years, by 2012, she left UA, hoping to further explore and find her footing in the raw food community. She did menu consultations and worked with area restaurants.

That summer, by a twist of fate, Fraser literally stumbled onto something that would set her path in motion. During a raw food dinner at The Black Olive (hosted by actor Woody Harrelson, no less), she kept stepping on a postcard. Eventually, she picked it up and saw that it was advertising a class for raw chocolate-making. She signed up on a whim and was smitten on the spot. “I loved the sounds of the stone wheels grinding on the stone plate, I loved the technique, I loved that it was this linear process and working with my hands,” says Fraser. “I was entranced.”

Within weeks, with only the one-time workshop under her belt, Fraser launched a wholesale raw chocolate business out of her home kitchen, then in Columbia. “In the beginning, we had no idea what we were doing,” she says, smiling.

But she was, after all, a quick learner. As she started to do research, she learned that while some 40 percent of the work in cacao-growing communities is done by women, they own only about two percent of the land. So, from the outset, sourcing beans from small, family-or female-owned farms became paramount. In addition, Fraser’s chocolate was dairy-free, gluten-free, and vegan, with little refined sugar and no additives—unlike anything else being made in Baltimore—and it remains so to this day. Within months, she was selling to outlets around town, including Woodberry’s Artifact and Remington’s Clavel, where her dark chocolate pastilles were flecked with roasted crickets.

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In 2013, when Maryland’s cottage-industry laws governing homemade, commercially sold foods excluded chocolate-making, she could no longer work in her own kitchen. She searched for a commercial space, but rents were prohibitively pricey. Fraser was ready to give up, when she serendipitously ended up back in touch with Scott Plank, who was redeveloping the long-forgotten Belvedere Square Market. When she met with him about being a part of the market, she recalls, “He immediately said, ‘Yes, you can have a space.’ It was a huge deal to get a spot.”

So, on November 22 of that same year, with construction of her stall not yet complete, Fraser set up a makeshift table in the middle of the main market hall. In addition to hazelnut fudge and date poppers, she sold vegan pots de crème and cheesecake made with cashews. “From the first day, I couldn’t believe that people were coming and buying chocolate,” she says. “This was wild to be exposed to the public with this thing that I made. Doing wholesale from my kitchen, I didn’t see the end user. Now someone was standing in front of me, putting this chocolate in their mouth and saying they liked it.”

Very quickly, what was then known as Pure Chocolate by Jinji became a market mainstay. “Jinji had her following, including those who would stop by just to see her,” says Dorian Brown (Stokely’s godfather), whose Neopol Smokery business was a neighbor at Belvedere. “But because the space was so small, sometimes people would just stumble on it—it was the definition of finding a hidden gem.”

With chocolate as their canvas, Fraser and Seton became fascinated by the idea of creating endless iterations of sweet and savory flavors, adding unexpected natural ingredients like sumac, sorrel, mace, morel mushrooms, maitake mushrooms, and more. “Initially, the chocolate was my way of helping people make that transition from crappy, refined food to holistic foods,” says Fraser, who was vegan when she began the business but now eats everything but dairy. “I felt like it could make the process more approachable for people—that was the whole premise. It wasn’t until a few years in that I thought, that’s all well and good, but what else can this be and how else can I add principle and purpose? That’s when our world exploded and expanded into what we are now.”

Co-workers and best friends Jonathan Seton and Jinji Fraser hang out in front of the display case at Jinji Chocolate.

Fraser delved even deeper to learn about the complicated and often overlooked history of chocolate, with its roots entrenched in slavery and colonialism and its fraught production practices that continue to this day. In West Africa, which produces an estimated 70 percent of the world’s cacao beans, it’s a leading cash crop, which fuels serious issues such as deforestation and child labor.

Eager for more education, she and Paul made pilgrimages to nearby cacao-growing countries, as well as the farms where she sourced beans to make her chocolate. Their first trip was to Costa Rica in 2014, followed by Ecuador, Guatemala, Columbia, Mexico, the Caribbean, and the Dominican Republic.

As she traveled, her eyes opened to the troubled past of a plant that has been prized for more than 4,000 years. It is believed the first cacao was cultivated in ancient Mesoamerica (present-day Mexico) and the seeds of the fruit (aka the beans) were rendered into a bitter drink, likely mixed with water, and flavored with spices and flowers, to be used for sacred rituals. On one particularly formative trip to Haiti, she began to appreciate how chocolate-making could, like wine, be something infused with a sense of terroir—tasting and telling the story of the place where it came from. And for her beloved world of chocolate, Fraser wanted to help educate others—and write a new narrative.

“It just blew my mind wide open to see that the possibilities of chocolate are not only in the flavor profiles that we create but also in the production of chocolate itself,” she says. “It made me want to pay homage to this traditional way of chocolate-making—one that was not bound by the rules of European chocolate-making, which is big fancy machines and perfect chocolate bars that are so processed and refined that they hold no reference to the land itself. I was so excited that there was this other way to enjoy chocolate. And yet I felt like my community in Baltimore had no reference.”

Tuskegee pecan turtles

Back at Jinji Chocolate, Fraser and Seton gear up for the holiday season. The immaculate commercial kitchen is one part art room, with its jars of dried flowers and orange dust, and one part science lab, with its row of spices, stainless steel funnels, measuring cups and massive refrigerator and freezer.

In any given week, the chocolate makers turn out some 1,000 truffles, 1,000 pieces of fudge, and 500 bars, plus an additional 20 to 30 pounds of chocolate to coat coffee beans, date poppers, figs, and peanut brittle, not only for store patrons but for events and wholesale clients, including two area Whole Foods, local bakers like Atwater’s and Motzi Bread, and the revered Black Ankle Vineyards in Frederick County. It’s a labor-intensive process, which means a single bar or truffle can take days to make.

In early December, the co-workers, who refer to each other as “J,” are busier than ever. Making a batch of 72-percent dark chocolate, they mix cacao powder and cacao butter—along with natural sweeteners such as coconut sugar, mesquite, and lucuma fruit—in a melanger (used to grind and refine chocolate) for about 16 hours. This batch will later be used for dipping or drinking.

At the same time, Fraser pops dozens of bonbons from their molds and tweaks new flavor combinations while also reducing pomegranate juice, tearing mint leaves, and consulting her go-to tome, The Flavor Bible, to see if these ingredients will work in combination. “I think it will be delicious,” she says with mock defiance, having expressed doubt just a few minutes earlier. “I have renewed faith in my decision and will continue to pick my mint leaves.” “I think it will be delicious, too,” says Seton reassuringly, as he packages bars of hazelnut gianduja fudge for two upcoming events.

Their friendship is central to the business and creative process, as they bounce ideas off one another, review personal predilections—he’s a cat person, she’s a dog person; he likes horror movies, she doesn’t—and play rounds of “Would you rather?” “Would you rather drink this bottle of olive oil in front of me or eat this entire jar of coconut sugar?” she asks Seton. “I’d definitely drink the olive oil,” he says without hesitation. Belly laughter is the kitchen soundtrack.

Through the years, they’ve dreamed up hundreds of fanciful, idiosyncratic combinations, like tequila-twist truffles with lime, grapefruit, cilantro, and mint, or cashew-coconut-Meyer lemon fudge, and, infamously, ketchup and mustard truffles with local tomato ganache and mustard seed garnish. “Why bring it up?” Fraser scolds Seton teasingly. “We sold exactly two.”

Ideas for flavor profiles are inspired by a variety of places, whether that means “nostalgic food moments of our past,” says Fraser, “or maybe something really tasty and creative we’ve had recently.” They can also be something even bigger, “like a feeling we have in response to something in the world around us that we then distill into a flavor,” she says. “Or it could be as simple as a classic holiday favorite.”

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Learning the art of chocolate-making has mostly been trial and error. “We are learning all the time as we go,” says Seton. “Craft chocolate-making doesn’t necessarily have a set of rules. It’s what your creativity and imagination and your soul ends up delivering.”

Beyond the science itself, there’s “an element of real magic with chocolate-making,” adds Fraser. “What works one day won’t work the next. What flavor is good the first time doesn’t jibe with the chocolate the next. There’s the science, for sure, but chocolate doesn’t care about mastery.”

Like the time the melanger vibrated straight off the counter in the middle of the night and splattered chocolate all over the kitchen. “It was a horror scene,” Fraser recalls.

It keeps them humble, and on their toes.

Pouches of Fraser's vegan and gluten-free liquid dark chocolate made with 70-percent organic cacao.

Which is why Fraser especially loves being able to showcase the very basics and origins of chocolate through the new shop’s authentic “drinking bar”—likely the only one in the state. Preparing cups of liquid chocolate for customers, she ferments just-roasted beans to form cacao nibs, which are then milled to a dark paste, which is then mixed with oat milk, unrefined cane sugar, and simple syrup, before finally being steamed to yield a rich drinking chocolate, much like what indigenous cultures drink to this day.

Of course, incorporating traditional practices has long been at the core of Fraser’s professional mission, but it became something of a personal calling ever since she learned her own ancestors can be traced back at least three generations to an ancient cacao-growing region bordered by Brazil, Venezuela, and the Atlantic Ocean. “It turns out Guyana is our ancestral homeland,” she says. “And there’s a Fraser family trust there—I had no idea.”

And when she did a little digging about exactly where—just west of the capital city of Georgetown—she was stunned by the serendipity. “That land is squarely in cacao-rich earth,” she says. “It felt like they had spoken to us and put this path right in front of us. It was like all the roads led to this. And it was a crazy, cathartic feeling. Like, ‘You’ve always been meant to be here. This is the thing you’re supposed to be doing.’”

Fraser often circles back to her sense of purpose. While standing in her new space, she can’t help but reflect on the old one at Belvedere Square Market and connect the dots of her path. “We were an afterthought,” she says of her minuscule market booth, which was positioned as a stop for customers on the way to somewhere else. It mirrored the feeling of being marginalized throughout her lifetime—as one of the only Black students in elementary school, as a bit of an outsider on the swim team, and while attending McDonogh. “I thought this was just my place in people’s lives—right there on the edge,” she says.

But for Fraser, being on the fringes likely played a part in her path—and her purpose. That thought has dislodged something. She’s had an epiphany these past few weeks, and says it’s been life-changing.

“I feel like this could have been the way I experienced racism—being the only one in those circles,” she says. “In the moment, the way I was received by my friends, by the people I was around, felt kind and gentle. In retrospect, I was always on the edge of those friendships. I was never the best friend. I was never at the center.”

Carving out her own space has come to carry real weight.

“Being here is breaking that cycle,” she says. “It feels very healing to have this beautiful shop and to have people come especially for this—they walk in the door because that’s exactly where they want to be. They come to see us because we are exactly who they expected to be there.”

In other words, right on cue, the universe, and Jinji, have arrived.

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]]> Review: Grand Cru Market Bar is a Welcome Newcomer to Belvedere Square https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-grand-cru-market-bar-belvedere-square/ Wed, 27 Apr 2022 16:23:44 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?post_type=article&p=119492
Boy With a Coin (Grand Cru’s take on sangria). —Photography by Scott Suchman

On the list of things to love about the new Grand Cru Market Bar—and there are many—No. 1 is the fact that a bartender will happily pour you a half glass of wine, draught beer, or even make you a smaller-than-standard cocktail. It’s a genius idea that’s rare around these parts.

Since opening in December, the bar has added a much-needed jolt to the space in Belvedere Square that’s sat vacant since the Italian grocer Ceriello closed in 2019. It’s an outgrowth of the beloved adjacent wine shop that’s been a market staple for years.

Husband-and-wife co-owners Jayce Flickinger and Rebecca Sandler set out to create a neighborhood gathering spot. Judging by the crowds we encountered during happy hour, they’ve succeeded. The incredibly relaxed vibe imparted by the bartenders is a major reason, but so is the unique lists of cocktails, beers, and wines.

Take for example the 600 Pounds of Sin. It’s made with reposado tequila, saffron amaro, sweet vermouth, Aztec chocolate and angostura bitters, and an absinthe rinse. Its potency and curious collection of ingredients make it understandable why the bartender who serves it calls it the joint’s most “divisive” cocktail. But the creativity and care with which it’s made underscores why it and so much at Grand Cru succeeds. Among the other house cocktails that shine through is the Velvet Waltz, a combination of rye, blueberry amaro, sage, demerara, lemon, and black walnut bitters. It too packs a punch yet is eminently drinkable. Boy With a Coin, Grand Cru’s take on sangria, is red-wine-based, with house-infused vanilla Cognac, pomegranate, and spices.

If you’d like, a bartender will make you a classic drink like a Manhattan, Old-Fashioned, or Mai Tai. But an entire section of the menu is dedicated to Grand Cru’s twisted takes on these standards. An Old-Fashioned is made with Añejo tequila and chocolate bitters. A “fortified” Manhattan adds port wine to the rye whiskey base. Again, these drinks aren’t for every palate, but those willing to take a risk will be rewarded.

On the days we visited, the intriguing list of beers on tap included a marshmallow milk stout, Belgian saison, orange crush ale, black IPA, and a pilsner from Germany. There were plenty of local offerings avail- able in bottles and cans, including varieties from Union, Heavy Seas, and Brewer’s Art. There is also wine by the glass, bottle, and on tap, and a smattering of hot drinks like Say A Little Prayer: chai tea with crème liqueur and whipped cream.

After enjoying several drinks and finishing a bowl of spicy basil noodles from nearby Thai Landing (Grand Cru doesn’t serve food but invites customers to bring anything back from any stall in the market), we were full and slightly buzzed, but not quite ready to go home. A half pour it was.

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]]> Weekend Lineup: May 29-31 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/events/weekend-lineup-may-29-31-2/ Fri, 29 May 2020 08:00:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=70799

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May 29-30: Mediterranean Prix-Fixe at Noona’s

1203 W Mt Royal Ave. Prices vary.

We’ve all fallen for the Italian-inspired entrees and sourdough pies at Noona’s. But this weekend, chef Cai Lindeman is going off-menu with a full-blown Mediterranean feast perfect for divvying up between your quaran-team. Set the table and pre-order the eight-plate package—which includes homemade flatbread, labeh with dill oil, hummus with marinated chickpeas, whipped garlic toum, za’atar-roasted eggplant, blistered shishito peppers with mint and dukkah, fresh Karma Farm herbs, burnt honey cheesecake, and a choice of proteins like roasted Trumpet mushrooms or Cape May swordfish—online for pick-up or delivery. And don’t forget to add a few to-go cocktails to wash it all down.

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May 29: Big Softy Pop-Up at Dutch Courage

2229 N Charles St. 3-7 p.m.

Eighty-degree temperatures call for soft shells, shrimp salad, and ice-cold cocktails. This Friday, head to the courtyard at Dutch Courage in Old Goucher to catch Craig Falk of The Lunchbox Lady popping up with his soft-shell concept, Big Softy. He’ll be slinging sandwiches and crab cakes while the Dutch Courage team whips up two special bottled cocktails. Choose from to-go options such as the gin-based “Clover Club” with raspberry, lemon, and dry vermouth, or the “Evita,” which mixes amaro with ginger, lime, and vermouth rouge.

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May 30: Live Baltimore Virtual Trolley Tour

9 a.m.-12 p.m. Free

Be it our houses or our neighborhoods, we’re all getting a little tired of the same scenes every day. This weekend, take a look inside someone else’s home for a change with Live Baltimore’s Virtual Trolley Tour. Explore city neighborhoods, connect with real estate professionals and community organizations, and participate in expert-led discussions. Added perk: If you’re gearing up to move, enter to win $5,000 toward the purchase of your next home-sweet-home in Baltimore City.

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May 29: Summer Sounds at Home

Facebook Live. 7 p.m. Free.

While we’ll miss the lawn chairs and little ones dancing in the street, thanks to livestreaming, Belvedere Square regulars don’t have to miss out on their favorite warm-weather Friday-night activity. This year, Summer Sounds is coming to you. Grab your favorite BSQ curbside meal, gather with your quarantine crew, and tune in to Facebook Live as local jazz cellist Ed Hrybyk and vocalist Irene Jalenti take the virtual stage. Be sure to mark your calendar each week to hear from a rotating roster of some of the DMV’s most talented musicians.

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May 30: Opening Day at the Overlea Farmers Market

6908 Belair Rd. 8:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m.

This small market in Northeast Baltimore provides its local community with fresh produce and protein throughout the warm-weather months. Grab your tote and wander around on opening day to find the likes of pastured chicken and duck eggs from Ladybrook Farm, jams from Johari Made, baked goods from Mary’s Muffins, and flowers from Celadon Hill.

Additional reporting by Lydia Woolever.

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]]> Weekend Lineup: November 15-17 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/events/weekend-lineup-november-15-17/ Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:33:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=23705

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Nov. 16: Oyfest 6

Union Craft Brewing, 1700 W. 41st St. 12-5 p.m. $15-50.

This annual oyster palooza checks all the boxes for a standout day of shucking, slurping, and sipping. Let’s go down the list: Bivalves from the bay sourced from regional farms; superior shuckers from The Local Oyster and True Chesapeake Oyster Co.; the fan-favorite oyster-eating contest; live funky sounds by Rufus Roundtree and Da B’more Brass Factory; and tons of beer from host Union Craft Brewing. Need we say more?

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Nov. 15-17: Rare & Obscure Beer

Max’s Taphouse, 737 S. Broadway. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Free.

For almost 35 years, Max’s Taphouse has been a mecca-like destination for local beer lovers, with thousands of bottles in its collection and a draft list so long that it practically nudges you to try something new. This weekend, the Fells Point staple will temporarily add nearly 100 rare and obscure beers to its menu, with more than 60 deep-cut drafts and a growing list of bottles and cans. Take this opportunity to sip on something new because, who knows, “That’s the Kind of IPA That Makes You Wish You Spoke French” or the “Sierra Nevada Bigfoot 2009” could be your new favorite beer.

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Nov. 14-Dec. 1: Aladdin

The Hippodrome Theatre at the France-Merrick Performing Arts Center, 12 N. Eutaw St. Times vary. $52-175.50.

On the heels of the live-action version of this classic Disney film, the story of Aladdin will come alive on The Hippodrome stage—minus the presence of Will Smith. Bring the whole family to the historic downtown theater to experience the adventures of a street urchin who falls in love with the princess of Agrabah, with plenty of songs, colorful characters, and romance to keep audience members of all ages entertained. Catch this eye-popping musical during its almost three-week run and get ready to go on a magic carpet ride for the ages.

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Nov. 16-17: Stop Making Sense

Ottobar, 2549 N. Howard St. Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. 7 p.m. $15-50.

Whether you were in the crowd at the Talking Heads’ 1983 performance at Hollywood’s Pantages Theater or have watched the concert film “Stop Making Sense” a few times over, we can almost guarantee that you’ve never experienced the legendary show like this before. For two nights at the Ottobar, more than 25 Baltimore musicians and performers—including the likes of Landis Expandis on the drums and Jasmine Pope and Amy Reid as guest vocalists—will perform a full-throttle rendition of the epic concert with a light show and lamp-dancing included. Pack the Remington club for this do-good show, with a portion of the proceeds benefiting the Baltimore Harm Reduction Coalition.

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Nov. 16: Holiday Bazaar

Belvedere Square, 540 E. Belvedere Ave. 12-3 p.m. Free.

Get into the (early) holiday spirit this Saturday at Belvedere Square’s family-friendly market, packed with handmade gifts by local artists and makers. In between browsing through wares by vendors such as Scarvelous and Allison Fomich of Tigerlillyshop, grab a sweet treat from Sofi’s Crepes or Chocolate by Jinji, bop along to live music, and spend the afternoon reveling in the start of this chilly holiday season.

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]]> Open & Shut: Tire Shop Pop-Ups at Parts & Labor; Koba BBQ; TigerStyle https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-tire-shop-pop-ups-at-parts-labor-koba-bbq-tigerstyle/ Thu, 01 Aug 2019 11:55:59 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=17957

COMING SOON

Tire Shop Pop-Ups at Parts & Labor: We’ve been keeping tabs on this former car-and tire-repair-shop-turned-Remington restaurant since Parts & Labor served its last cuts of meat in the space last summer. A new pop-up series is preparing to reactivate the space with public food events featuring local purveyors. The first of many such events is scheduled for August 10 from 12-5 p.m., when the barbecue buffs with Bark BBQ will serve up their Texas-style smoked meats with signature sides like pickled cucumbers and corn on the cob. Joining them for the inaugural celebration will be Locust Point’s Diamondback Brewing and R. House’s R. Bar. Hopefully we’ll see a more permanent revival soon, but, for now, it will be nice to see (and smell) meats being smoked in the space again.

Koba BBQ: It’s been quite some time since we’ve seen a restaurant operate inside the standalone building at Belvedere Square—which has become notorious for its turnaround rate throughout the years. North Baltimore locals might remember as far back as 2004, when it operated as Taste. Concepts that followed included Crush, Demi, Spike Gjerde’s Shoo-Fly, and, most recently, Starlite Diner. Now, the space is straying from its previous life as a cocktail bar and diner with an entirely new on-trend theme. Koba BBQ, a locally owned Korean barbecue concept is slated to open in the space by the end of this year. The spot adds to the development’s diverse lineup of food offerings, which include Ejji Ramen, Atwater’s, Grand Cru, and Neopol Smokery.

Brazil Gourmet Marketplace, Cafe, and Coffee Bar: Baltimore’s Brazilian food offerings will expand in the coming weeks with the arrival of this multi-use concept on Eastern Avenue. The Fells Point shop will be home to a market featuring authentic Brazilian grocery items like coffee, yucca and tapioca flours, smoked and dried meats, and mango and guava fruit juices. After stocking up on the comestibles, patrons are invited to stay for a meal in the cafe, which will highlight delicacies like classic empanadas, açai bowls, cachaça-infused caipirinha cocktails, and Pão de Queijo (Brazilian cheese bread).

EPICUREAN EVENTS


TO 8/11: Baltimore Restaurant Week
The city’s annual dining-out promotion is officially in full swing with an array of participating places to choose from. Treat yourself to two-course lunch and brunch menus ranging from $12-20, or a three-course dinner for $20-35. Newbies including Blackwall Hitch, Noona’s, The Tilted Row, and Orto are all participating for the first time this year if you’re hoping to try something new. But it’s also a great opportunity to revisit old standbys like Tio Pepe’s or Annabel Lee Tavern. (You can find our globally inspired suggestions here.)

8/3: Vegan SoulFest

This plant-based party returns to Clifton Park for its sixth year with a jam-packed lineup of speakers, cooking demonstrations, live DJ entertainment, shopping, and, of course, plenty of vegan eats to go around. Local vendors to look out for include L’Eau de Vie Organic Brasserie, The Greener Kitchen, Refocused, and The Land of Kush—whose co-owner Naijha Wright-Brown organizes the event each year.

SHUT

TigerStyle: Earlier this week, diners devoured the last of the steamed buns and stir-frys at Chad Gauss’ wok-inspired outpost in Hampden. The chef and Food Market owner recently confirmed to us that the restaurant has closed for good. Gauss says the closing is not for lack of business. The space was simply sold to another buyer who expressed interest in taking over the former commissary kitchen. “It was a fun place and exactly what we wanted it to be,” he tells us. “We have a few bigger projects coming our way, and it just made sense to let this one go since we had someone that was interested in the location.” There’s no word yet on who, exactly, will be taking over the carryout—which Gauss opened only six months ago and named after the lyrics of a popular Wu Tang Clan song.

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]]> Weekend Lineup: November 2-4 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/events/weekend-lineup-november-2-4/ Thu, 01 Nov 2018 16:39:21 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=26114

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Nov. 3: Belvedere Square’s Chili Fest and Classic Car Show

Belvedere Square, 540 E. Belvedere Ave. 1-4 p.m. Free.

During this second annual afternoon affair, Belvedere Square’s tenants, including The Pizza Trust, Grand Gru, and Neopol Savory Smokery, will go head-to-head in a heated (pun totally intended) chili competition. Judged by festival attendees and a panel of esteemed tasters, including Baltimore’s Best Hon Amber Nelson, six vendors will contend for the title of Belvedere Square’s best chili. In between tastings, stroll through the classic car show, browse through the Maryland Book Bank’s on-site collection, and dance along to live music by local favorite Andy Bopp and the Strung Outs.

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Nov. 3: Baltimore Craft Beer Festival

Canton Waterfront Park, 3001 Boston St. 12-5 p.m. $15-45.

With crisp fall weather in the forecast for Saturday, it’s the perfect time to try all of the seasonal lagers, ales, and porters you’ve been craving since the first day of autumn. Now in its fourth year, the Brewers Association of Maryland’s signature event will host more than 50 Maryland-only breweries at Canton Waterfront Park for an afternoon of sampling drafts from newcomers such as Checkerspot Brewing and Antietam Brewery, a home-brewing competition, and tons of local eats to soak up the suds.

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Nov. 1-11: Charm City Fringe Festival

Locations and times vary. $10-98.

This weekend, Baltimore’s unconventional theater festival returns to the Bromo Arts District for 11 days of variety acts, one-man productions, and off-kilter comedy and theater pieces. Kick off opening night with preview performances and art installations at Marble Bar from 7-10 p.m., and then spend the rest of the weekend experiencing a host of eclectic performances by the likes of BOUXSCAL Productions, actress Lisa Hayes, and Lost & Found Puppet Co. at 322 North Howard Street.

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Nov. 4: Chris Stapleton

Royal Farms Arena, 201 W. Baltimore St. 7 p.m. $36.75-56.85.

Since coming onto the country music scene a few years ago, this singer-songwriter has taken over the genre and redefined the lines between mainstream rock and country music. During his live performance at Royal Farms Arena, sing along to hits such as “Tennessee Whiskey” and “Broken Halos” as well as songs from the Grammy Award-winner’s latest album, From A Room: Volume 2.

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Nov. 4: Across the Bay 10K

Chesapeake Bay Bridge, Stevensville. 5 a.m.-2 p.m. $85.

Whether you’re bouncing back from the Baltimore Running Festival or its your first race of the season, lace up your sneakers for this early-morning run that draws more than 20,000 joggers to the starting line every year. After running the westbound span of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, stick around for live music, family-friendly activities, and all-you-can-drink options during the post-race festivities.

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]]> Open & Shut: The Pizza Trust; Cured; The Elk Room https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-the-pizza-trust-cured-the-elk-room/ Thu, 31 May 2018 15:00:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=27175

OPEN


Cured and 18th & 21st: After much anticipation, the team behind Howard County’s Iron Bridge Wine Co. has finally cut the ribbon at this hybrid concept inside the new One Merriweather building in Columbia. The building houses a casual Mid-Atlantic eatery called Cured up front, as well as 18th & 21st in the back —a speakeasy-style jazz club named after the amendments that enacted and later repealed Prohibition. The menus in both dining rooms are spearheaded by chef Christopher Lewis, a local industry veteran who most recently ran the kitchen at Iron Bridge. To celebrate the grand opening and Capital JazzFest happening just a few hundred yards away at Merriweather Post Pavilion this weekend, 18th & 21st will highlight performances by local jazz musicians all weekend long. 10980 Grantchester Way, Columbia, 667-786-7111

COMING SOON

The Pizza Trust: Just when we thought Belvedere Square Market had everything, a new pizza joint is being thrown into the mix later this summer. James Clark, who owns Clark Burger inside the Senator Theatre across York Road, is debuting this new spot that will serve quick-fire pizzas, wings, fries, and salads. The menu of personal pies includes varieties like the “Mobtown” (garlic oil, mozzarella, caramelized shallots, roasted red peppers, and toasted pine nuts), the “Dirty Bird” (truffle bechamel sauce, herb chicken, bacon bits, and B-More Saucy buffalo drizzle), and the “Trust,” which tops hand-stretched dough with house red sauce, green peppers, and sweet and spicy Italian sausage. 529 E. Belvedere Ave., 443-961-8111.

Donut Alliance: After one year of peddling their tasty treats at local eateries and cafes, husband-and-wife team Jeff and Emily Arenberg are settling in a brick-and-mortar of their own. Slated to officially open on Harford Road in Lauraville later this month, Donut Alliance will feature a daily selection of the couple’s signature vegan varieties including strawberry lemonade, maple facon (vegan bacon), and classic Boston cream. “We’re avid bakers,” Emily says. “So we’re always trying to get to where non-vegans can’t tell the difference.” 4311 Harford Rd., 410-627-4597

Sophomore Coffee: This yet-to-open coffee shop introduced itself to the scene with a pop-up at Hunting Ground last weekend, and it will be back at the Hampden vintage shop this Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Stop by to sample the signature brews (either hot or iced) in advance of Sophomore Coffee’s debut in Old Goucher in the coming weeks. Stay tuned for more updates. Hunting Ground, 3649 Falls Rd., 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

NEWS

The Elk Room: It’s been an exciting week for Atlas Restaurant Group’s speakeasy-style cocktail bar in Harbor East. On Wednesday, the dimly lit hangout was awarded a coveted spot on Esquire’s annual list of the “21 Best Bars in America.” The write-up gives shout-outs to industry veterans Shaun Stewart (who actually recently moved on from Elk Room) and Andrew Nichols, and praises the duo’s creative drinks including “The Poe’s Raven”—a smoked rum and coconut cocktail that was inspired by the rum-ham bit in It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. “Being named one of the Best Bars in America is a result of all of the hard work, passion, and dedication that our team puts into the Elk Room each and every day,” says Atlas managing partner Eric Smith, who oversees the beverage program. “We are very appreciative of the recognition, and will continue to raise the bar when it comes to cocktails and service.” In previous years, Esquire’s list has included The Brewer’s Art, Rye, and Mt. Royal Tavern. The Elk Room, 1010 Fleet St., 410-244-5830

EPICUREAN EVENTS

6/1: Lobster Roll Fridays Return to The Corner Pantry
You know it’s the start of summer when chef Neill Howell brings this Friday tradition back to The Corner Pantry in Mt. Washington. Starting this Friday, June 1, Howell will be whipping up his classic Maine lobster rolls on housemade bread served with an order of crispy chips. Swing by the Falls Road haunt on Fridays throughout the summer starting at 11 a.m. to taste the signature summer dish. 6080 Falls Road, 667-308-2331, $28.

6/2: Great Grapes Wine & Food Festival
Throw on a pair of sunnies and head to Oregon Ridge Park this Saturday to sip more than 100 Maryland-made wines from the likes of Boordy Vineyards, Linganore Winecellars, Basignani Winery, Olney Winery, Royal Rabbit Vineyards, and more. Plus, there will be a la carte local beer, food truck fare, live music, and a playground area with crafts for kids. If that’s not enough to convince you, ’90s chart-toppers Vertical Horizon (think “Everything You Want” and “Best I Ever Had”) will perform a headlining set at 7 p.m. Oregon Ridge Park, 13401 Beaver Dam Rd., Cockeysville, 1-8 p.m., $29-39

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]]> Weekend Lineup: May 25-28 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/weekend-lineup-may-25-28/ Wed, 23 May 2018 15:36:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=27201

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May 26: Ice Cream Making With Taharka Bros.

School of Food, 1412 N. Wolfe St. 11 a.m.- 2 p.m. $55. 443-708-3789

Even if you’ve never heard of Taharka Bros. ice cream, chances are you’ve sampled it at area restaurants and retailers. The droolworthy flavors (honey graham, anyone?) are currently sold at more than 75 eateries, college campuses, and ice cream shops all over town. Plus, the Clipper Mill-based creamery roves in its hot pink “Change-Maker Mobile” to serve scoops while promoting its mission of supporting Baltimore youth. This weekend, join the Taharka team at School of Food in East Baltimore to learn the ins and outs of ice cream making—starting with a classic base. Just as Taharka dreams up flavors inspired by the local community (including the peppermint “Greenmount Chip” and coffee-flavored “Get Woke”) participants will be tasked with creating unique recipes influenced by their own experiences.

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May 25: Old Westminster Winery Can Jam at Sandlot

Sandlot, 1000 Wills St. 5-10:30 p.m. Free.

Old Westminster Winery changed the game last year when it rolled out its canned vino varieties—which are each equivalent to half of a bottle. From the beginning, the team knew that the cans would be a perfect fit for Sandlot, the island oasis at Harbor Point that has a strict no glass policy. As the sun sets over the water this Friday night, head to the beachfront hangout to feel the sand in between your toes and celebrate Old Westminster’s newest seasonal releases including the dry white Vine & Vigor, semi-sweet white Bloom, and vibrant Raw Rosé. Crack open a can and welcome the long weekend in style by dancing to live music from the Timmie Metz Band all night long. 

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May 26: Merriweather Movie Night Double Feature

Merriweather Post Pavilion, 10475 Little Patuxent Pkwy, Columbia. 5-10:30 p.m. Free. 410-715-5550

There’s nothing quite like a summer night at Merriweather Post Pavilion—with warm breezes, cold beverages, and glimpses of fireflies lighting up Symphony Woods. The venue’s annual summer movie series returns this Saturday night with a special double feature starting at 6 p.m. Bring the kiddos and spread out a blanket on the lush lawn to enjoy a showing of Sing, followed by Dirty Dancing at 8:30 p.m. Another draw is that Merriweather will be offering discounted concessions (think essentials like chicken tenders, fries, soft pretzels, ice cream, and popcorn) and, of course, plenty of adult beverages. 

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May 25: Summer Sounds Kickoff With Kelly Bell Band

Belvedere Square, 540 E. Belvedere Ave. 6-9 p.m. Free. 410-464-9773.

For 15 years, locals have made this Friday night gathering at Belvedere Square a summertime ritual. Kicking off the concert’s special anniversary season this weekend is the genre-defying funk, blues, reggae, and rock sounds of local favorite Kelly Bell Band. After the clock strikes five and the long weekend has officially begun, throw a lawn chair over your shoulder and head to the square to enjoy live tunes, snacks from the market’s vendors (including newbies Mason’s Lobster Rolls and Prigel Family Creamery), mingling with friends and neighbors, and all-around good vibes. 

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May 27: 35th Annual SoWeBo Arts & Music Festival

Hollins Market, 1100 Hollins St. 12-8 p.m. Free.

Hundreds of local artists, crafters, and musicians will gather in the heart of Hollins Market this Sunday for the 35th annual SoWeBo Arts & Music Festival—a Memorial Day Weekend tradition that showcases the breadth of Baltimore’s arts scene. Wander around the four-block footprint to peruse handmade wares, outdoor sculpture, kid’s crafts, food trucks, puppet shows, and a non-juried art exhibit with an array of affordable pieces. This year’s jam-packed live music lineup spans three stages. With acts ranging from roots and folk band Skribe to the funk and jazz-inspired Joe Keyes and The Late Bloomer Band, there will be plenty of opportunities to jam out. 

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]]> Eight Outdoor Concert Series Where Families Can Go to Rock Out https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/educationfamily/eight-outdoor-concert-series-where-families-can-go-to-rock-out/ Tue, 01 May 2018 11:59:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=27336

Having a family doesn’t have to mean kissing your love of live music goodbye—at least not during Baltimore’s sunny seasons. Concert-hopping can totally be tougher with kids in tow, but this time of year the city is packed with outdoor, kid-friendly events parents can actually relax and enjoy. An atmosphere that puts parents at ease while catering to young ones means concert fun for all. This year, there’s plenty to choose from and few reasons to stay home.  

WTMD First Thursdays
The much-loved First Thursday concerts are back at Canton Waterfront Park starting May 3. Two stages, food vendors, drinks by The Brewer’s Art, and even a kid’s zone are sure to keep the whole family entertained. Artists like Jessica Lea Mayfield and Lake Street Drive will bring big crowds, so come early and post-up until those little yawns set in.

Summer Concerts at Oregon Ridge
This local park is known for its nature center and beautiful trails. But Oregon Ridge has music-lover appeal, too. From KarmaFest to Music in the Woods, and the always eagerly anticipated Hot August Music, the venue holds several day-long events perfect for every age. Kids can take listen to tunes, head over to the playground, and maybe snag a hug from the Oriole Bird, too (who tends to make an appearance at Hot August.

Belvedere Square Summer Sounds
If you’re in the market (Belvedere Market, that is) for a laid-back, post-work-week hang, Summer Sounds is just what the family ordered. Every Friday evening from May 25 until September 7, the square comes alive with music by local artists, and plenty of family dancing. Delicious food and slurpable drinks are available from Grand Cru and the market shops. Kids come for the face-painting, kid-zone games, and general running amuck with neighborhood friends. Parents stay for the music and sweet sangria. Equally sweet is the adult interaction and relaxed vibes the concerts never fails to bring.

MECU Pavilion (formerly Pier Six)
Not all concert venues are family-friendly, but MECU has a few perks that make bringing the kids a sinch. With lots of lawn space to roam, you won’t have to worry about tots getting lost in the shuffle or those little ear drums, either. Kids of all ages are welcome and those under two get in free. A few of this summer’s shows include Primus, LSD (Lucinda Williams, Steve Earle and Dwight Yoakam), and The Barenaked Ladies. And if you’re really in it for the kids, don’t miss KidzBop Live on August 10.

Summer Socials on the Waterfront
Waterfront Partnership makes West Shore Park another great spot to gather and get down. Every second Friday from May through August, food trucks line the streets while Dooby’s provides drinks for thirsty concert-goers. This year, performers like Kelly Bell Band, The New Romance, What’s Next, and The Loose Ties take the stage. Kids surely aren’t forgotten at this summer standby either, with creative kid-zone fun, like giant building blocks.

Shop and Eat to the Beat on the Avenue
Live music begins at White Marsh on May 25 and continues every Friday and Saturday through Labor Day. The first band of the year is Nelly’s Echo. Other performers include the Cajun and zydeco sounds of The Crawdaddies and reggae from Jah Works. Food can be purchased from any of the avenues eateries and beer, wine, and crushes are available in the event area. With plenty of retail stores to hit up nearby, there are tons of reasons to check out the family-centric weekly events.

Feet on the Street in Towson
Bands, bouncy castles, face-painting, and more make this Towson mainstay an event local families look forward to every year. On Friday evenings from May 18 through September 28, local bands like Jury, Crushing Day, and Kitty Black will perform. Families can relax, eat, drink, and get their feet moving over on Allegheny Avenue.

Summer Concerts at Merriweather Post Pavilion
While you might not want to take your kids to the Vans Warped Tour on Sunday, July 27 just yet (though the event is all ages—and they might just enjoy the mohawks and crowd-surfing!), Merriweather has plenty of day-long events that are perfect for the whole family. From the Capital Jazz Festival on Sunday, June 3 to the Summer Spirit Festival on August 4 and 5, there are more than a few concerts to choose from. The kid-friendly site has a spacious lawn with plenty of room for the kids to wiggle, cruise the vendors or just rock out.

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]]> Grand Gesture https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/belvedere-square-wine-bar-grand-cru-gets-back-to-its-roots/ Tue, 20 Feb 2018 08:30:00 +0000 http://server2.local/BIT-SPRING/baltimoremagazine.com/html/?post_type=article&p=2014

When Spike Gjerde’s Foodshed restaurant group took over Grand Cru in 2014, there were certainly big shoes to fill. Not only had the Belvedere Square wine bar been there for more than a decade, but the sudden death of its beloved owner, Nelson Carey, shocked the community.

Gjerde and partners Corey Polyoka and John “JC” Unitas III decided to change some things to be on brand with their other restaurants, including nixing some of the signature food items, replacing a chalkboard wall with subway tiles, renovating the bar, and reconfiguring the wine shop. In true Baltimore style, some patrons objected to the menu omissions or shiny new details.

But now Grand Cru (527 E. Belvedere Ave., 667-212-4847) is getting back to its roots, thanks to new owner Jayce Flickinger, who was a bartender there from 2008 to 2012. Fittingly, he also worked at Foodshed restaurants Shoo-Fly and Parts & Labor—so the latest iteration of Grand Cru is a happy blend of the old guard and new.

The wine shop in the back is organized more simply, and the chalkboard menu is back, too. Guests can sip wine by the bottle from the shop (with a corkage fee) or by the reasonably priced glass. The night we visited, we enjoyed the black cherry tones and dry finish of an Emerson pinot noir.

The menu also consists of affordable cocktails and lists classics such as a Rat Pack Martini or more creative concoctions like Paul Bunyan’s Breakfast—bourbon, citrus, and maple syrup—a hearty and sweet cocktail perfect for winter. Another plus: lemons and limes (banned by Foodshed because citrus couldn’t be sourced locally) are back in use.

Long-time regulars will see familiar items on the menu again, including olive assortments, cheese and charcuterie plates, and a customer favorite in the soft pretzel platter. But there are welcome additions, too, including a käsekrainer (cheese-filled sausage) from Parts & Labor served on a bun with mustard and kraut, with a bag of Utz chips on the side.

On the bitingly cold evening we popped into Grand Cru, the place was packed. Beyond the pretzels and the price points, we credit Flickinger with a more inviting and familial vibe. After all, he gets it: Years ago, he and his wife, who now live up the street in Rodgers Forge, met at this very bar.

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]]> Ryan’s Daughter Owner Shares Fond Memories Before Closing This Weekend https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/ryans-daughter-owner-shares-fond-memories-before-closing-this-weekend/ Tue, 16 Jan 2018 12:24:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=28083

This past Sunday, musicians gathered at Ryan’s Daughter Irish Pub in Belvedere Square for its final informal Irish jam session—a weekly tradition that invited performers of all backgrounds and experience levels to join in.

“You can see what kind of energy that brings into a place,” says Ryan’s Daughter owner Marwan Daas. “And, unfortunately, it’s something that we’re starting to see less and less of. There aren’t a lot of places where people can spontaneously say, ‘I’m going to stand up on a chair and sing some Irish songs while you guys play music.’ You’re never going to see that in a corporate place, because they’re afraid that if you stand on a chair, you’re going to fall.”

Daas says that, although the jam session felt like a farewell, the pub won’t officially close its doors until Sunday, January 21. Last week, he and his wife, co-owner Andreea Zmarandache, took to Facebook to announce that they would not be renewing their lease in the Belvedere Square development due to financial constraints. 

“Like a lot of things in life, it all came down to the numbers,” Daas says. “It’s been a wonderful place over the years, but a 6,000-square-foot space at around $40 per square foot became very prohibitive in the end. We would have loved to stay in the neighborhood—there are so many friends that have become family to us. But we had to make a business decision in the end.”

Throughout its 14-year run, the pub became a go-to for pints of beer paired with bangers and mash, corned beef sandwiches, Shepherd’s Pie, and other Irish staples. But Daas says that the appeal went far beyond the eats and drinks. He notes that the pub was a gathering place for schools, churches, colleges, and hospitals in the surrounding community.

“From day one, we felt that there was a need for a place like an Irish pub that would really become a part of the community—somewhere for all of these groups to gather and feel comfortable,” he says. “It felt like home to them, and it felt like home to us, as well.”

Aside from getting to know regulars and the weekly jam sessions (in which former Governor Martin O’Malley frequently performed), Daas says that some of his favorite memories include watching his children, now ages 10 and 12, grow up visiting the restaurant.

“It was heaven to them,” he says. “They would run around and hide things all the time. And we would find the stuff that they hid months later. And now that they’re a little bit older, I have to think about what their needs are more than anything.”

Looking ahead, the owners say that they will welcome the possibility of opening something smaller in the neighborhood. Daas and his wife plan to take some time off, and then start thinking about buying, rather than leasing, a property of their own.

“Hopefully, we’ll see what happens in the next few months, but if we go back at it, it’ll be the same idea,” he says. “It’ll be something with the neighborhood in mind.”

Daas says that, in lieu of a big party, the final evening of business this weekend will be a quieter celebration for patrons to toast the bar and spend time with neighbors. One of his close friends, Father Joseph Muth of St. Matthew’s Catholic Church in Loch Raven, will lead a prayer to bless the space.

“More than anything, I just want everyone to know that we appreciate the community,” Daas says, mentioning that regulars hosted everything from weddings to funerals at the pub. “We didn’t want it to be just another place where they could go to have a couple of drinks and a warm plate and leave. We served our purpose.” 

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]]> Greg’s Goodbye https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/local-bagel-baron-greg-novik-discusses-life-and-legacy/ Tue, 28 Feb 2017 08:30:00 +0000 http://server2.local/BIT-SPRING/baltimoremagazine.com/html/?post_type=article&p=3637

Greg Novik’s bucket list includes safeguarding actual buckets. Specifically, the well-worn storage buckets stacked in back at Greg’s Bagels. “The old buckets are comfortable and easy to grip and easy to use,” he explains. “New buckets, just like everything else new, are not very good.”

Old: good. New: bad. It’s something of a mantra for Novik, 70, impresario of Greg’s Bagels, the Belvedere Square storefront that swept Baltimore from the bagel-barren late 1980s to today’s bagel-dense landscape.

Over that time, Novik has perfected his recipe, trained generations of diligent workers, and attracted an ardent following hungry for his plush bagels schmeared with wry wisdom.

“I think of Greg Novik as the heart and soul of Belvedere Square,” says the writer Anne Tyler, via email. “For years, one of my favorite summer rituals has been my annual trip to Greg’s to stock up on bagels for the family beach trip; it often involved a brief sit-down with Greg amid the chaos and clatter and cozy chatter of his shop, and I always left smiling.”

Fans are no longer smiling. Novik has been diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. On Aug. 1, 2016, Novik locked the shop, leaving a note on the door that ended, “It’s been a terrific 27-and-a-half years.” Now, he’s focused on staying alive for as long as possible, enjoying time with family, traveling, and training the store’s next owner so that Greg’s Bagels can roll on without Greg.

He’s also reflecting on a remarkable career, one that produced more than a mere brunch staple. “I’m constantly surprised we affected and influenced so many people,” says Novik, at ease in his living room in Cheswolde. “I think we demonstrated durability, stick-to-it-iveness, work ethic. We showed you can be happy much of the time working. It was fun. And it made people happy. How many jobs can you say that for?”

Novik’s childhood in Cleveland—nuclear physicist dad, renowned pianist mom—showed no glimmer of his bagel destiny. “I never liked bagels,” says Novik, still sporting his signature beard and curls over a now gaunt frame. “Sundays my parents would get bagels and lox. As an 8-year-old you don’t want raw fish. I still do not like salty, briny, so-called lox.”

What he did like was music. The family moved to Chevy Chase (dad designing rockets at the precursor to NASA, mom touring the world for the State Department), and by junior high school Novik was playing sax, piano, bass, and guitar. He joined several bands, including The Resumes and The Newports, who, with their clean-cut look, rhythm-and-blues sound, and VW bus, struck an early Motown vibe. He left The Newports in 1964 to study economics at The Johns Hopkins University.

During Novik’s sophomore year, he was invited to the College of Notre Dame of Maryland to write music for the annual campus music show.

“All the girls there thought he was absolutely crazy because he had this long hair and he was the worst-dressed person I’d ever met in my life,” says Novik’s wife, the former Kathleen Thompson. “But he came on his motorcycle and they all thought he was cool, kinda like a Jewish James Dean.”

Kathy says the two became “chums,” then one night, at a party, realized they’d be together forever. “You know, making out for a bit and then, ‘Whoa, this is it!’” They married in 1968, the day before graduation.

Professionally, Novik turned his talent to advertising, working his way up from copywriter to creative director. He still played with local bands and scored jingles for Baltimore’s big names: Hutzler’s, Hecht’s, and Stewart’s department stores; Channel 45; Maryland National Bank. It was fun, working gospel and other “real music” into commercials. It was easy. And, after 18 years, it was “stupid.”

“Computers were coming in,” says Novik, a committed Luddite. “It no longer called for much creativity.”

On Sundays, the couple and their children—Jenna, now 46, and Jeffrey, now 38—cooked together. One week, randomly, they chose bagels. “They were horrible,” says Novik. “We had to try again.” He kept trying, lugging around his homemade bagels until friends and colleagues found them delicious and Novik found a new career.

“The kids and I thought it was the worst idea he had ever had,” says Kathy, an artist and furniture refinisher, who nonetheless was game for the adventure.

With $30,000, the couple opened Greg’s Bagels in 1989. The storefront has been a fixture since, keeping lonely vigil in the mid-’90s when Belvedere Square was all but abandoned. “You used to hope you’d get mugged just to have someone to talk to,” says Novik. The store’s mascot, a baker holding a chalkboard, grinned steadfastly through the market’s 2003 renovation and resurgence. Greg’s regularly earned best-ofs from this magazine and other publications, its reputation staked on an astounding array of smoked fish (some smuggled in from Canada in a customer’s luggage) and its toothsome bagels.

“A good bagel,” explains Novik “is, de rigueur, rolled by hand, it’s boiled then baked, and it’s made of the highest quality ingredients. And, a real bagel must have malt.”

Novik mostly worked the back, juggling hot trays, mixing spreads, and inventing fanciful combos. (“If they gave Michelin stars to sandwiches,” writes Tyler, “his Taste of India on a whole health bagel would be a shoo-in.”) Kathy—despite a wheat allergy and near-constant migraines—worked the front: cash, check, or IOU only. Then as now, Novik preferred face-to-face interaction.

“When you come in here, you gotta deal with us,” says Novik. “If I’m up at the register, you’re gonna have to be sharp on your toes because there’s gonna be some humor involved. And if you deal with Kath, you can tell her your troubles. She’s like a bartender. There’s something going on and it’s sincere. It’s personal. And it’s real.”

It was real for the staff, too. When Andrew Williams was 15, he frequented the cookie and ice cream shop that preceded Greg’s; it had a pinball machine. One day the place was gone. “I was like, ‘Grrr! Bagels?!?’” he says, with comic-book inflection.

Instead of pinball, Williams found a job. He manned the register and cut dough in the back. He learned a lot: “Show up, do your job, have fun doing it, and treat people well, regardless of where they’re coming from,” says Williams, now 42. He also learned to triage tasks, a skill he uses today as a software engineer for Cisco Systems.

Early on, much of the staff would go out to eat after hours.

“Depending on who you were, a 15-year-old kid or a 25-year-old adult, he ended up being a father figure, a mentor, a best friend. He was your first boss, the guy who taught you life lessons, the guy who taught you how to have a good meal, drink a bottle of wine, the guy who taught you how to be a good human being,” says Heath O’Laughlen, 42, now a district manager at Panera Bread. “I didn’t have a father in my life. So he was my father figure.”

“He was one of those guys who you could tell anything to without judgment,” continues O’Laughlen. “He’d help you, guide you, give you advice. He was able to give a lot of us the keys to having a happy life.”

One key was valuing quality of life over quantity of money. “I am one of the few Hopkins graduates who is not wealthy, a celebrity, or a doctor,” Novik reported to his alumni magazine in 1998. “I am doomed and damned to a life of hard, physical labor, six days a week, 12 hours a day. If any of my classmates remember me fondly and would like to send me money, I would be appreciative.”

The long hours and slim profits were leavened by three vacations a year (often to France, Luxembourg, or Scotland), his pride in the product, and the bagel circle, as it were.

“He was so engaged with the community he created,” says customer Stephanie Shapiro, long-time features writer for The Baltimore Sun, whose two sons worked at Greg’s. “He was very curious. He’d ask me about stories I was working on. He was also really plugged in to Baltimore. He’s part of the firmament that makes it worth living here.”

In the spring of 2015, Novik noticed his weight dropping. By the next summer, he was plagued with stomachaches. He thought it was food poisoning. It was pancreatic cancer, and terminal.

“I’m dying,” says Novik. “Dying is no fun.”

He had surgery to make digestion possible and then started chemotherapy at The Johns Hopkins Hospital. “I go about each day, I try to eat, and I rest,” he says. “I don’t do any heavy introspection.”

Doctors estimate he has months, perhaps a year. “With all the prayers that people are saying for him and the incredible love of life he has, I think he might be around for a while,” says Kathy, a practicing Buddhist. “And if not, we’ve had such a great time together that it’s all right.” Her hope is that her husband can die without pain.

This past November, six members of the old crew got together to scrub the shop; afterward, they handed the Noviks 600 euros. Eleven days in Paris lifted Novik’s spirits and his weight—up to 116. “I took up drinking again in Paris,” he says. “I forgot how good that is.”

Once, Novik imagined he’d be reincarnated as a white-chocolate macadamia nut bagel. Now he forgoes any guesses. “I’m very intelligent, but not deep,” he says.

Novik considered selling the business to a chain, or auctioning off the equipment, but was surprised when Tommy Hearn, 22, who rolled bagels at the shop and washes dishes at Atwater’s, made an offer.

“I told him he was insane,” says Novik. “I thought I could talk him out of it. I couldn’t.”

Still, Novik is committed to Hearn’s plan and spends a good hour or so each day teaching him the business. There are batters to mix, spreads to whip, taxes to pay, people to hire, vendors to contact. There’s a lot to memorize and some things to wing. “If you can improvise a solo on the guitar,” says Novik, “you can improvise a bagel batter.”

“I’m going to mess up a lot,” admits Hearn, who grew up munching chocolate-chip and cinnamon-raisin bagels from the short-lived Greg’s Bagels Annex, in Hereford.

Hearn, says Novik, has bagel potential. “It’s a question of how much I’ve got to give and how hard he wants to work. And whether he remembers to turn lights off and lock doors and not waste things and get the right people working with him and having a partner, which he will eventually meet. I think what you do is find some nice girl, get married, and have her run the store with you. A nice Jewish girl.”

Once the deal is inked, Novik will hand over his last bit of wisdom: the secret recipe. “I will be the first person he’s ever [divulged] the recipe to,” says Hearn, a dead ringer for Shaggy, of Scooby-Doo fame.

Hearn vows to keep the same menu, the same battered buckets, the same aura—plus, add a credit-card reader.

Novik appreciates the effort but knows nothing stays the same.

“There’s only one Kathy,” says Novik. “And there’s only one Greg.”

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]]> Style File: Vita https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/styleshopping/style-file-vita-belvedere-square/ Fri, 14 Oct 2016 13:50:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=30395 Continued]]> Whether you’re waiting in line for coffee, catching up with
friends for brunch, or squeezing in a quick run before a meeting, choosing an
outfit that’s practical and comfortable is a must. Whatever your daily schedule,
“athleisure” seems to be the new norm for everyday wear. From the owners of
Charm City Run, Vita prides itself on being a lifestyle boutique perfect for
the woman always on the go. Conveniently
located in Belvedere Square, Vita recently celebrated one year of bringing
fashion and fitness together for the betterment of the community. We caught up
with marketing director Ashley Lines to learn more about Vita and if the athleisure
trend is here to stay.

What was the inspiration behind Vita?
Ashley Lines: We have five running stores in the area, but we saw a need for a local store that leaned toward the trend of “athleisure.” Basically just a store that had great clothes and great pieces that are quality.

How does Vita differ from your other stores?
AL: This store is far more lifestyle, far more general fitness, and its all women’s wear here, which is great. Vita is a lot more style conscious and it’s definitely a lot more feminine for the everyday lady. We can kind of play with pieces and mix and match, versus Charm City Run, which focuses mainly on more functional athletic wear.

How would you describe Vita?
AL: The name means life, or the happy life, and that’s kind of what we go for with the store. We talk about bringing fashion and fitness together and we also hope to help the community while we do that.

Have you noticed a difference in the customer base from your sister stores?
AL: Mainly with the customers that are coming from Charm City Run, this is what you’re going to wear anytime you’re not running, so we want to fill that gap in the customer’s life. The pieces here are great because they can go from your workday to being with your kids.

What’s your favorite piece in the store?
AL: It’s really hard to say! I’m kind of obsessed with these new leggings and really anything in here that’s from Beyond Yoga, which is a really awesome yoga brand. If you put their leggings on, you’re going to want to live in them.

Who is your style icon?
AL: I’m a fan of both Jessica Alba’s and Kristen Bell’s style. They are both working moms who always look put-together, on trend and approachable.

What is the most embarrassing fashion trend you used to love?
AL: Wispy bangs and butterfly clips of the ’90s. Terrible.

Do you think the athleisure trend is here to stay?
AL: Definitely—it’s cute, functional and tailored pieces. You can be comfortable and run around all day but still look great doing it.

Our Top Picks:
Alo Yoga Ombre leggings ($88); Beyond Yoga cardigan ($132); Prana Demure cardigan ($129).

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]]> The Starlite Diner to Take Over Former Shoo-Fly Space in Belvedere Square https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/the-starlite-diner-to-take-over-former-shoo-fly-space-in-belvedere-square/ Wed, 29 Jun 2016 13:49:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=30990 Continued]]> Soon, the tall facade that towers over the corner property at 510 E. Belvedere Avenue will boast yet another new logo.

The Belvedere Square space, which has been a revolving door for restaurant concepts throughout the last few years, is slated to debut as The Starlite Diner by the end of August. The new project, spearheaded by former Red Maple owner Leonard Clarke, will be a family-friendly spot to enjoy comfort food, weekend brunch, and local craft beer.

Locals might remember the building’s former inhabitants, which have included long-time tenant Hess Shoes, romantic dinner spot Taste, contemporary cocktail bar Crush, and, most recently, Spike Gjerde’s industrial farm-to-fork eatery Shoo-Fly Diner, which only operated for 18 months. Clarke says that, although many of the building’s former tenants didn’t stick, he isn’t superstitious. (We write more about this location and other so-called “cursed restaurants” in our upcoming August issue.)

“I haven’t had any second thoughts whatsoever,” he says. “There are a lot of reasons why places don’t work, but I’m confident that the concept will translate successfully through the menu, pricing, and service.”

The diner will be open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and cater to a late-night crowd on weekends. Its menu will feature a lengthy list of modern comfort foods (think classic breakfast dishes and a variety of burgers), plus an array of fresh-squeezed juices, milkshakes, and healthy options for kids. Clarke has hired Texas native Arim Isabel, who has headed up kitchens at New York City hotspots Cafeteria and Southern Hospitality.

Clarke says that he was instantly inspired by the space during his first walk-through last fall. His goal is to preserve the building’s history while also making it feel bright and inviting.

Designed by Kuo Pao Lian and Pavlina Ilieva of PI.KL (local studio behind R. House and the redesign of Sip & Bite), the 175-seat interior now features built-in booths, dark walnut furniture, a classic diner counter, window seating, and tons of indoor greenery—a far leap from the candle-lit lounge design of Red Maple.

“When I opened Red Maple, I was 37 and single,” says Clarke, 53. “Now I’m married and have an 8-year-old son, so I’m less interested in the late-night business and looking for something a little calmer.”

The Mt. Vernon club, known for its guest DJs and colorful martinis, was recently sold to Ryan Perlberg, who plans to transform it into a cocktail bar called Sangria in the coming months.

Michael Gioioso, real estate advisor for Belvedere Square property management MacKenzie Management Company, is confident that the new diner will fit in nicely with the other existing food destinations in the market.

While Shoo-Fly was also a diner concept, it was more of an experiment and a quasi-canning operation for Gjerde’s Woodberry Pantry products. Starlite will be Clarke’s sole focus.

“He’s going to rock and roll in there,” Gioioso says. “Belvedere Square is a great catch-all food hub, and this is really going to add to the breadth and variety of that.”

In addition to joining the tight-knit community of local business owners in the market, Clarke is excited to introduce the approachable concept to the neighborhood.

“Diners won’t ever go out of style, they’re just such a classic all-American thing,” he says. “Belvedere Square is a fantastic oasis in North Baltimore and I’m excited to be so close to that great energy.”

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]]> Five Things to Do Memorial Day Weekend 2016 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/events/five-things-to-do-memorial-day-weekend-2016/ Fri, 20 May 2016 14:35:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=31156 Continued]]> Not only is Memorial Day an occasion to honor the men and women who have served our country, but the beloved three-day weekend is also a great opportunity to get a taste of all of the exciting outdoor events to come as our Charm City summer officially kicks into gear. In between partaking in habitual MDW traditions—like sipping beers with bears at Brew at the Zoo and browsing handcrafted knickknacks at the Sowebohemian Arts Festival—squeeze in some extra fun at these five area events.

Celebrate the return of the season at Summer Sounds at The Square
5/27: As temperatures rise, local bands are starting to make their rounds, providing sunset soundtracks at various outdoor concert series. Now in its 13th season, this fan-favorite Friday-night bash returns Memorial Day Weekend, combining live performances with eats and drinks from some of Belvedere Square Market’s best vendors. Crack open a can of Summer Shandy from Atwater’s, feast on crawfish from Touloulou, sip on kombucha from Hex Ferments, and treat yourself to Mexican ice pops from Pure Chocolate by Jinji while getting down to covers by local ’80s rockers The New Romance. Belvedere Square, 529 E. Belvedere Ave., 6 p.m., 410-464-9773

Channel your inner sci-fi nerd at Balticon 50
5/27-30: With an exclusive appearance by Game of Thrones creator George R. R. Martin on the books, the Baltimore Science Fiction Society is clearly pulling out all of the stops for Balticon’s 50th anniversary this year. The region’s largest sci-fi convention is returning to the Inner Harbor Memorial Day Weekend with a four-day lineup full of panels and presentations exploring the latest in anime, comics, and gaming. Meet authors and artists, attend film screenings, and browse limited-edition artwork. For all of the GoT fans hoping to catch a glimpse of the guest of honor: Martin will be attending a special Feast of Ice and Fire Dinner on May 26. Renaissance Harborplace Hotel, 202 E. Pratt St., Times vary, $35-70, 410-563-2737.

Run in the annual MCVET race to benefit local veterans
5/29: Curate a playlist full of high-energy anthems, lace up your running shoes, and head to the War Memorial Plaza downtown to embark on this race overlooking the scenic Inner Harbor skyline. Participants can choose to partake in either a 5k or 10k course, (through Mt. Vernon and along Key Highway to Fort McHenry) followed by a post-race party with refreshments, music, a live auction, and awards. All proceeds will benefit the Maryland Center for Veterans Education and Training, which helps local veterans in need get back on their feet. War Memorial Plaza, 101 N. Gay St. 7:30 a.m. $25-35. 410-576-9626

Sway to the sounds of bluegrass bands at Delfest
5/26-29: If you’re down for a mini road trip sans beach traffic, head to this weekend-long music festival held at the Alleghany Fairgrounds in Cumberland.Now in its eighth year, the concert started by legendary country musician Del McCoury boasts a jam-packed lineup spanning three stages. Spread out a blanket, throw on some sunnies, and jam to the fingerpickin’ sounds of The Travelin’ McCourys, Sierra Hull, Bruce Hornsby & The Noisemakers, Railroad Earth, Cabinet, Keller Williams, Elephant Revival, Fruition, and more. The family-friendly event also features tons of food vendors, its own arts and crafts fair, and a kids area equipped with hula-hooping, face-painting, and various interactive workshops. Allegany County Fairgrounds, 11400 Moss Ave., Cumberland. Times vary, $60-200

Honor the fallen at the Annapolis Memorial Day Parade
5/30: As it does every year, the Annapolis community is coming together to commemorate local veterans with its annual patriotic parade. Grab a lawn chair; don your best red, white, and blue gear; and head to downtown Annapolis to watch everything from floats and color guards to music groups and marching bands pass by. The parade steps off at 10 a.m. sharp, and follows its traditional route down West and Main streets. A memorial ceremony on the waterfront at Susan Campbell Park will follow the festivities. Amos Garrett Blvd & West St., Annapolis, 10 a.m., 410-263-7996

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]]> Baby on Board: Craving Chronicles https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/health/baby-on-board/ Mon, 17 Aug 2015 08:30:00 +0000 http://server2.local/BIT-SPRING/baltimoremagazine.com/html/?post_type=article&p=6301

The two things I looked forward to most when my husband and I successfully co-mingled our gene pools were the kid and the food cravings. (If our son reads this one day, it will be good that I listed him first.) There’s a scene in Parks and Recreations where Ann lists a “huge trash bag full of mashed potatoes” among her cravings—and that’s what I wanted. Maybe not garbage potatoes, but I wanted my stomach to teach my brain cool new ways to articulate hunger. And yet, with 10 weeks left in this pregnancy, my only constant craving has been for peas.

In the late spring, when my pea obsession kicked into gear, I thought maybe my baby was some kind of food puritan, sent to force me to eat seasonally from the inside out. Peas were everywhere, and so I put them in everything. I ate them by the bowlful, once going through two pounds of the three-pound sack I purchased at the farmers’ market in less than a week. I learned how to make ricotta so that I could pair my delicious peas with fresh ricotta over pasta and even typing that, at 9:19 a.m., is making me want to weep because dinnertime is so far away from now.

I realize, fully, that saying peas are my greatest craving is obnoxious. They’re peas. I get it. Everybody loves a good crazy pregnant lady food story, and I’ve seen too many faces fall when I share mine. This pea rave isn’t meant to make me seem like a demure Victorian lady who denies human urges. I am always, always hungry. Making a person is a lot of work, and so I eat almost constantly. But I’m still holding out hope that some brilliantly vile food combination will sing its siren song from my pantry, but for now, here are the normal things I’ve been eating around town.

JFX Farmers’ Market and Bazaar
Everyone’s farmers’ market route is intensely personal. We all have very different food goals and methods to maneuver/cope with big crowds and long lines. I’m fortunate that in our almost decade-long relationship, my husband has mostly conformed to my psychotic market behavior. We get in, get coffee and a snack, do a counter-clockwise loop with minimal fraternizing, and we get out. Acceptable stops include: Farm to Face Falafel, where crunchy beets, cucumbers, and greens hold hands with hot falafel in a shallow sea of honey and Sriracha. The wrap presentation allows for face-stuffing on the go. McCarthy’s Farm is, I believe, where we fill up our pea sack, but honestly I’ve never looked up other than to politely smile at the pea-handler because I’m so focused on the end goal. Locust Point Greenhouse is where we stop for fresh flowers and plants (not technically a food, but I can’t have booze so we now have a constant rotation of floral arrangements). We’ll hit Reid’s Orchard on the way out for berries, and if we have any cash left and finished our falafel too quickly, we’ll pop by Blacksauce Kitchen for second breakfast.

Belvedere Square
One of my favorite things about pregnancy is the smugness I feel when I bounce out of bed early on a Saturday while knowing all of my friends are still fitfully sleeping off their hangovers. (This smugness is a façade built around myself to feel better about not also being hungover.) I very much enjoy being an early bird at Belvedere Square to split a humongous Plantbar juice with my groggy husband, supplemented with bagels from Greg’s, and coffee from Atwaters.

Taharka Brothers Ice Cream
If forced to make a decision, I’ve always been a person who would take a vat of hot, salty, vinegar-soaked fries over dessert of any kind. But now that I’m pregnant, I’ll take the fries and some ice cream, please. Specifically, I’d like a pint of Salted Caramel from Taharka, which is sold at the grocery store three blocks from my house, because sometimes things just work out that way.

Minato
I am fully aware that eating raw fish while pregnant is frowned upon. But pregnancy makes your brain want many things all at once, and sushi spots are the best for getting lots of little bits of things. Minato’s bento box special on Sunday nights has made me very, very happy. I split some edamame and spring rolls with my dinner date and then go to town on a platter of shrimp tempura rolls, sesame chicken, rice, and whatever else I can get them to throw into the mix. Also, if other restaurants could get into the game of selling food by the bite, that would be great.

The 800 block of The Avenue in Hampden
Going with the theme of sating the many palates I experience all at once, the 800 block of The Avenue has something for all of me. The chicken kabop wrap and tikki chat from The Verandah are so perfectly seasoned and toe the glorious line between feeling gluttonous, but also not being entirely bad for you. The Ma Petite Shoe Café offers delicious decaf drinks and a variety of crepes (the recent “Chicken Dinner” crepe special had stuffing in it. Stuffing. In August. What a world.) And, obviously, The Charmery makes the list because I’m not a fool.

Matthew’s Pizza
We used to reserve Matthew’s for super special hangovers—the kind that settle in deep and really latch on, oblivious to the Gatorades you’ve chugged. But now it’s reserved for just being hungry for pizza. Though dining in is lovely, I recommend grabbing a three-cheese with pepperoni to go, and using the car ride home to really let the aroma permeate while you sip on a Limonata San Pelligrino, like you’re on holiday in Italy. Then bring it back to America once you’re back on your sofa with a Netflix nosedive.

Friends and Farms
Friends and Farms is like having your cool, health-conscious parents do your weekly grocery shopping. They aggregate food from the region (small carbon footprint!) and source from ethical farms (feel good about your food!) and put it all together in insulated reusable bags (take that, landfills!). Every food group is represented, down to yogurt, milk, and bread, making light of any subsequent grocery store runs. Food pick-ups are once a week, and the friendliest people in the world dole out your bounty. Friends and Farms has been a wonderful resource for us this summer. Pregnancy brain is very real, and having someone curate a healthy mix of the food pyramid means we’ve eaten delicious, balanced meals, and not boxed Velveeta mac and cheese every night.

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]]> Unitas Grandson to Buy Grand Cru https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/unitas-grandson-to-buy-grand-cru/ Tue, 20 Jan 2015 09:55:00 +0000 http://server2.local/BIT-SPRING/baltimoremagazine.com/html/?post_type=article&p=7251

A legendary local name appears headed to take over a well known North Baltimore business.

John C. Unitas III, grandson and namesake of Baltimore Colts football legend and Golden Arm restaurant owner Johnny Unitas, has emerged as the prospective lead buyer of the Grand Cru wine bar and wine shop, nearly six months after the sudden death of former owner Nelson Carey.

Unitas and a business partner, Jacqueline Beal, are identified as prospective buyers of the popular gathering spot in Belvedere Square Market, including its liquor license, in documents on file with the Maryland Board of Liquor License Commissioners for Baltimore City.

Unitas and Beal have formed an entity called BSq Wine Co. LLC to buy Grand Cru. An application to transfer Grand Cru’s seven day liquor license to BSq Wine Co. LLC was filed on January 6, and a public notice was posted on the exterior of the wine bar last week. The current license holders are Christina Carey, Nelson’s widow, and David O’Ferrall. Christina Carey and the Grand Cru staff have operated the wine bar since Carey died of a heart attack last year, at age 50.

Stan Meros, manager of Belvedere Square Market, said the management of Belvedere Square supports the new owners.

“We’re upbeat about the transfer,” Meros said. “It is working out very well. It’s a bad situation whenever someone dies, but we have made the best of it.”

Meros said the business is changing hands because Christina Carey has another career and did not want to continue operating Grand Cru after her husband passed away. He said Grand Cru has been an asset to Belvedere Square and the management wants to keep it that way. Meros also noted that Unitas’s grandfather operated the Golden Arm restaurant about a mile north of Belvedere Square.

Unitas, 26, said he is currently a buyer for Urban Outfitters in Philadelphia but has worked on the wine team at Cinghiale in Harbor East and as a server at Petit Louis Bistro in Roland Park. He said he is excited to be taking over a business with such a strong reputation and following.

“I want to get back into the food industry,” he said. “What better way to do that than to have a place with such a great legacy and such a great soul? . . . I have tremendous admiration for what Nelson Carey accomplished . . . I would say the experience will not change. It’s a great meeting place, a great place where people can get together. The legacy that Nelson built at Grand Cru will always remain part of Grand Cru. That will not leave.”

Unitas, who goes by “JC” and called his grandfather “Pop-Pop,” said Grand Cru was his “date night spot” before moving to Philadelphia and he knew Carey from being a patron there.

He added that with the last name of Unitas, “I have always been handed a huge pair of shoes to fill . . . I am ready for the challenge.”

Since opening in 2003, Grand Cru has become a magnet for a diverse mix of patrons from North Baltimore and beyond, including attorneys, doctors, developers, educators, politicians, clergy, artists, television personalities and the occasional Pulitzer Prize winner. Its success was largely attributed to Nelson Carey, whose sudden death was followed by a wave of tributes. Hundreds attended his memorial service at The Episcopal Church of the Redeemer.

According to the liquor license transfer application, Unitas will have a 99 percent financial interest in the business, and Beal, 28, will have a one percent financial interest. Unitas will be the “full time operator.” Additionally, the sale price of the business, including the liquor license, is $200,000. Grand Cru’s monthly rent at Belvedere Square is $6,630 per month.

The liquor board has set January 22 as the deadline for people to protest the proposed liquor license transfer. According to Douglas Paige, assistant executive secretary of the liquor board, a public hearing on the application likely will be held in February. If approved by the liquor board, the sale of the business and transfer of the liquor license could take effect shortly afterwards.

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]]> Jinji’s Chocolates Are Sweet and Super Food https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/jinjis-chocolates-are-sweet-and-super-food/ Fri, 19 Dec 2014 08:30:00 +0000 http://server2.local/BIT-SPRING/baltimoremagazine.com/html/?post_type=article&p=7389

Imagine a chocolate bar so good for you it’s not even considered candy. That’s the inspiration behind Pure Chocolate by Jinji, created by former holistic nutritional counselor, Jinji Fraser, who sells her line of artisanal chocolates at the Belvedere Square Market (and other locations). 

“I came up with the idea because, when I would counsel them, my clients were asking, ‘What will I do without sweets?’” says Fraser. 

The proof is in the product. One taste of Fraser’s line of raw, sugar- and gluten-free goodness—packed with ingredients including iron-rich bananas and immunity-boosting honey—is all it takes to give up sweets tout de suite. 

Says Fraser, “Take, for example, the raspberry, orange, Brazil nut bar. The vitamin C in the raspberries and oranges enhances hair growth. That’s not to say you’ll look like Rapunzel if you eat it, but if you include these ingredients in your diet, you’ll have great hair, too.” 

Not to mention a clear conscience. “For a lot of people, chocolate is sinful,” explains Fraser. “But dark, raw, organic chocolate is a super food and a great accompaniment to a healthy diet, plus it tastes great, too.”

Health Nut

Jinji’s hazelnut/chocolate spread is a delicious and healthy alternative for Nutella lovers. It’s great on toast, pretzels, and even ice cream!

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]]> ​Ramen Noodle Shop Set to Open in Belvedere Square https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/ramen-noodle-shop-set-to-open-in-belvedere-square/ Mon, 20 Oct 2014 11:54:25 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=67167 Continued]]> The ramen noodle craze that is taking the country by storm is blowing into Baltimore.

The newest spot, Ejji (pronounced edgy), is setting up shop inside Belvedere Square’s farmer’s market. The Oct. 26 opening will kick off with eight seats during lunchtime at the bar. 

Additional seating space will be added in the coming weeks.

Ejji’s menu will include ramen dishes with Malaysian and Japanese influences. 

Look for a variety of broths including the traditional tonkotsu, a vegetarian miso broth, and a Malaysian-style seafood curry broth. Gluten-free and vegetable-based low carb noodles will be on offer, as well.

Other eats include rice bowls, gyozas, and yakitori skewers. 

The cafe will also serve a selection of beer and sake.

Ejji joins the scene alongside the recently opened TenTen on Charles Street. (Look for our upcoming Off the Eaten Path review.) 

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]]> Grand Cru owner dies at the age of 50 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/grand-cru-owner-dies-at-the-age-of-50/ Tue, 22 Jul 2014 12:38:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=67712 Continued]]> [Update: Belvedere Square will be hosting a tribute to Nelson Carey this Friday, August 1 from 6-9 p.m., which is during the already scheduled Summer Sounds concert. Carey’s fellow merchants will each cook up a special version of his favorite food, the frankfurter, that customers can enjoy in exchange for a suggested $5 donation to a new fund to help finance the college education of his daughter, Paige. 

Friends and family can also make make a donation online at the concert or on their own at http://www.gofundme.com/Nelson-Carey. Donations will be accepted throughout the month of August. As the press release stated: “It seems only appropriate that Nelson’s memory, his love of food and wine, as well as his generosity to customers and colleagues, be honored at the Square which he helped grow and thrive—and where he, in turn, achieved his dream for a business that would be a gathering place for the community.”]

Nelson Carey, the owner of Grand Cru, died of a heart attack at just 50 years old last night.

Carey, who is survived by his wife and daughter, was a constant presence at the Belvedere Square wine shop—always taking his time to chat with customers and, according to employees, created a family atmosphere at Grand Cru.

We profiled Carey in the December 2012 issue of Baltimore magazine, where contributing writer Jim Burger went out for a beer with his friend to nearby Swallow at the Hollow. Here is what Burger wrote about the experience:

“Though located practically next door, the two businesses can’t be more dissimilar. The Cru is noted for its 45 wines by the glass, an even greater selection of bottles, and exotic draft beers. The Swallow is an institution, albeit a shot-and-a-beer institution. That’s the way Carey likes it: ‘I come here because it’s different. I come here to relax, and I don’t want to go drink at the same place I’m walking away from.’

But there is a visceral attraction as well. Four generations of his family have lived within three blocks of here. ‘I consider myself worldly and well-traveled, and yet I keep coming back.’ Two contrasting bars 170 paces apart, and Nelson Carey is at home in either.”

Our condolences to the family, friends, and employees of Nelson Carey. 

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]]> Party for Preakness https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/party-for-preakness/ Mon, 12 May 2014 13:20:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=65732 Continued]]> You don’t have to be at Pimlico racetrack to enjoy this year’s horse race when so many bars and restaurants are offering Preakness specials. Whether you’re looking for an elegant affair or a casual hangout spot, there’s somewhere in Baltimore for you to celebrate.

The Mt. Washington Tavern is currently offering its own spin on a Black-Eyed Susan for this year’s Preakness and, while supplies last, you can even keep the commemorative glass. The first order is $10, with $7 refills on Tavern Susans. America’s Best Racing is hosting a free pre-Preakness party at the tavern on Wednesday, May 14, with a chance to meet the jockeys and win Preakness tickets. The party begins at 7 p.m., and the first 50 guests to RSVP via Yelp get a free drink ticket.

Stay caffeinated for the race with coffee from Chesapeake Bay Roasting Company. Based in Crofton, the company has been named the official coffee of the Preakness, and you can get a cup at multiple Preakness events. The CBRC van has also been driving all over Maryland, giving away tickets to the race. Keep up with their Preakness activities on Facebook.

Claddagh Pub and Mother’s Grille are both offering the same Preakness package—for $109, guests get an infield general admission ticket, transportation to and from the race, and access to the pregame brunch party at either location. Both brunches will be serving up $3 Bud Light drafts and $12 pitchers of mimosas and Bloody Marys. Tickets can be purchased online.

Mad River Bar & Grille is offering a Preakness package for $100 that includes a free breakfast buffet, transportation to Pimlico, and a ticket to the Infield Mug Club. The package also includes an open bar for the hour before and after Preakness. Reservations can be made by calling 410-727-2333.

If you love the dressing up for the race, you won’t want to miss the after-party. Baltimore chef Spike Gjerde is hosting a Preakness cookout, “The Winner’s Wind-Down,” in Belvedere Square at 7 p.m. on Saturday, May 17. Flying Dog beer, whiskey, and Maryland cocktails will be served, along with coffee and dessert. Tickets are $100 for individuals or $300 for a group of four. The money will partially benefit the Oyster Recovery Partnership, which is devoted to helping return healthy oysters to the Chesapeake Bay. Preakness attire and hats are strongly encouraged. Tickets can be purchased online.

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]]> ShopTalk: May 2014 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/styleshopping/shoptalk-may-2014/ Mon, 05 May 2014 07:30:00 +0000 http://server2.local/BIT-SPRING/baltimoremagazine.com/html/?post_type=article&p=8679

Relocation

Wow! A new location and a new name! Formerly known as Jewels, the new JG Sassy is now across the street and named for owner Kearny Dietrich’s Baltimore-based clothing line. Along with Dietrich’s signature line, you’ll find big names in jewelry and clothing, including a mix of classic staples and trendy pieces sure to appeal to all ages.
7701 Bellona Ave., Towson, 410-321-8100.

New Location

Although she closed her Belvedere Square stationery shop Simply Noted in 2010, owner Melissa Taylor has reopened the shop under the same name with the help of new co-owner Louise Wright. Together, the women have added an entirely new gift section stocked with brands like Jonathan Adler, plus you can find well-known stationery names like Kate Spade and more local lines like Gillah Press + Designs and Maggie Stewart Designs. The boutique also custom-makes special-occasion invitations and offers in-store printing services.
1515 Labelle Ave., Towson, 443-275-7094.

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]]> A First Look at Spike Gjerde’s Shoo-Fly Diner https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/a-first-look-at-spike-gjerdes-shoo-fly-diner/ Thu, 10 Oct 2013 00:00:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=66255 Continued]]> It was the night before opening and all through the house all the staff was scurrying, even the chef. Shoo-Fly Diner, which officially opens to the public at 4 p.m. on Friday, is already in business, hosting a reception tonight before the re-opening of the nearby Senator Theatre.

Starting tomorrow, the new Belvedere Square restaurant will be open from 4 p.m.-1 a.m. seven days a week. There’s welcome valet service in the parking-challenged area. And just drop in. Reservations aren’t accepted at this time.

Owners Spike and Amy Gjerde have had quite a week. Besides opening their third restaurant, they were named one of Martha Stewart’s American Made Tastemakers for their farm-to-table ethos. The editors cited the couple for their commitment to staying local and for their in-house canning program, which will now be done at Shoo-Fly Diner.

I had a chance to walk through the multilevel space and pick up a menu today. As I got a glimpse of the refurbished rooms, Chef Opie Crooks, pictured above, was working with the crew in the open kitchen on the first downstairs level, which overlooks two horseshoe counters for diners.

Take a few more steps down, and you’ll find a carpeted children’s room with toys, games, and a pinball machine. Thank you, Spike and Amy! The bar and booths, pictured top, are located on the entrance level. If you continue upstairs, there is a dining room with tablecloths, pictured. But it still has a laid-back vibe, suitable to the comfort-food menu.

Here’s a sample of the offerings:

Fried-chicken supper with braised greens, cornbread, and pepper gravy, $24.

Cast-iron catfish with cole slaw and malt mayo, $13.

Chesapeake crab roll, $16.

Shoo-Fly burger, $12.

Snacks like a pickle jar, $5; picnic eggs with bacon, $4; and a potato-cheese pierogi, $7.

Shakes and slushes to drink, $5-7. Don’t worry. There are adult beverages, too.

And “Kid Stuff” like griddled PB&J and mac ‘n’ cheese.

There’s no website yet, but you can find Shoo-Fly Diner at 501 E. Belvedere Ave. The phone number is 410-464-9222.

Many Baltimoreans, including me, remember when the building was Hess Shoes. Yes, the sliding board is still there. And, no, we can’t use it. But thanks for the memories.

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]]> New Hampden wine bar https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/new-hampden-wine-bar/ Fri, 19 Jun 2009 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=65741 Continued]]> It seems like wine bars are popping up all over the city. Grand Cru was definitely the pioneer, opening in November 2003. But now the Belvedere Square staple has some company.

In September of last year, V-NO (pictured) opened up in Fells Point. Adding some class and modern chic to the neighborhood, V-NO is very wine-centric with only a couple of food items on the menu. They categorize their wine bottles using simple adjectives (juicy, crisp, etc.) and have outside tables situated right on the water. Judging by a recent visit, business is surely booming. All of the outside tables were taken and the bar inside was pretty crowded, as well.

But now the latest to join the pack is 13.5% Wine Bar on the Avenue in Hampden. Located two storefronts down from Golden West Cafe, 13.5% will be owned by Wayne Laing, former owner of The Wine Underground. The shop should open within the week or so, and it will have a trendy bar and lounge area with a store to purchase bottles. Laing said glasses will be about $6 to $7 and the bar will also serve tapas.

It’s hard to imagine such an upscale-feeling place situated in the blue collar hub that is Hampden. Yeah, there are trendy boutiques and bistro-style restaurants. But, a wine bar/lounge? That’s really kicking it up a notch. “I feel as though I’m going to change the environment,” Laing told the Baltimore Messenger. “My philosophy is, if you build it, they will come.”

My guess is they definitely will. Hampden obviously already has a market for wine-savvy customers, as evidenced by The Wine Source‘s ever-popular tasting events. Plus, 13.5% will be in such a prominent location that the Avenue’s newest addition will be hard to ignore.

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