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	<title>dining &#8211; Baltimore Magazine</title>
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	<description>The Best of Baltimore Since 1907</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 13 Nov 2023 17:15:22 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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	<title>dining &#8211; Baltimore Magazine</title>
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	<item>
		<title>Featured Home: 11915 Park Heights Avenue</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/special/featured-home-11915-park-heights-avenue/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Megan McGaha]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Mar 2023 17:16:05 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[2013 pavilion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[5.53 acres]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[archway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[attached three-level guest annex]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[babbling stream]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bath]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bob Jackson]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bob Jones]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bridge]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[built-in surround sound]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[built-ins]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cast stone fireplace]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Caves Valley Golf Club]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[classic columns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[coffered ceilings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[comfort]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cooking center]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[covered porch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cozy den]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[curved staircases]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[deck]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[enchanting pavilion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[estate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[expanded]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fine materials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fireplace]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[five full bath]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[formal dining room]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[four additional bedrooms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[four half baths]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[French doors]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[grand]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[great room]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Greenspring Valley]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[guest annex]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hand-scraped walnut floors]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[home]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[home office]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[indoor and outdoor harmony]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[intimate gatherings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jay Jenkins]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jenkins Baer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[JP Builders]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kitchen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[landscape]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[large bonus room]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[laundry room]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[living room]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[luxuries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[luxury]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[maintained]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[marble Foyer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[marble spa bath]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[open staircase]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[open-air parking capacity]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[outdoor entertaining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oversize 3-car garage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[partially wooded]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[patios]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pavilion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Primary Suite]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[private office]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[private office complex]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[professionally landscaped]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quartz counters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recent renovations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recent updates]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[relaxation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[renovated]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sanctuary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seating areas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[second laundry room]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[second level]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sitting room]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[six bedroom]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sixth bedroom]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[state-of-the-art systems]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[stone floor]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[stream]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[three baths]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[top-of-the-line appliances]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[two custom-fitted dressing rooms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[two exercise rooms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[two powder rooms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[two-story Foyer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Vince Greene]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walk-out lower level]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wide portal]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wpb-content-wrapper"><div class="vc_row wpb_row vc_row-fluid"><div class="wpb_column vc_column_container vc_col-sm-12"><div class="vc_column-inner"><div class="wpb_wrapper">
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			<p><span class="formula">The list price is the opening bid for an Online auction to be conducted by Alex Cooper Auctioneers in conjunction with Hubble Bisbee Christie’s International Real Estate beginning on Thurs., Oct. 5th and concluding on Tues., Oct. 10th at 11 AM. Pre-Auction Offers are strongly encouraged.</span></p>

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			<p>11915 Park Heights Avenue features a grand and exquisite luxury estate home nestled in the picturesque Greenspring Valley, gracefully connected by a bridge that traverses a babbling stream. Designed by the esteemed Architect Vince Greene, this majestic abode was masterfully crafted by JP Builders, with interiors meticulously curated by the renowned Jay Jenkins/Jenkins Baer, and lighting by the gifted Bob Jones. The verdant landscape surrounding this residence was artfully created by Bob Jackson.</p>
<p>Recently expanded and renovated, the home is impeccably maintained, boasting finishes crafted with the finest materials, including hand-scraped walnut floors that exude warmth and character. With six bedrooms, five full and four half baths, and a guest annex/private office complex, this home offers an array of luxuries fit for any lifestyle. Upon entering, guests are welcomed by a grand two-story marble foyer that flows gracefully through classic columns to the living room. The stair hall is adorned with open curved staircases and a wide portal that leads to a formal dining room with a natural stone floor and French doors that open to a charming deck.</p>
<p>The kitchen, a stunning addition, features natural stone floors, quartz counters, and top-of-the-line appliances that elevate the culinary experience. The great room is a haven of comfort, with a cast stone fireplace, coffered ceiling, and built-in surround sound, while the cozy den is perfect for intimate gatherings, with its fireplace, archway to the bar, and French doors that open to the enchanting pavilion. The main level also includes a home office with built-ins, two powder rooms, a laundry room, and an oversize 3-car garage.</p>
<p>The sumptuous primary suite on the second level is a sanctuary of relaxation, with its marble spa bath and two custom-fitted dressing rooms. Four additional bedrooms, one with a sitting room, three baths, and a second laundry room complete this level. The walk-out lower level features the sixth bedroom and bath, two exercise rooms, and a large bonus room. The attached three-level guest annex/private office complex offers many opportunities for use, while the large 2013 pavilion with its fireplace, dining, and seating areas is perfect for outdoor entertaining. The pavilion flows seamlessly to patios and gardens, including a covered porch off the kitchen with a cooking center, creating a harmonious connection between indoor and outdoor living. This estate is equipped with state-of-the-art systems, recent updates and renovations, tremendous open-air parking capacity, and professionally landscaped, partially wooded 5.53 acres adjacent to Caves Valley Golf Club.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>

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		<title>Getting Back to Normal</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/special/baltimore-college-campus-guide-pandemic/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Megan McGaha]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Mar 2022 18:29:02 +0000</pubDate>
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					<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wpb-content-wrapper"><div class="vc_row wpb_row vc_row-fluid"><div class="wpb_column vc_column_container vc_col-sm-6"><div class="vc_column-inner"><div class="wpb_wrapper">
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			<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class=" wp-image-118257 alignleft" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/dropcap_T.png" alt="T" width="75" height="93" />he phrase “the new normal” has been thrown around since the COVID-19 pandemic began, and as America struggles to define—and design—what that is exactly, colleges are paving the way for what it might look like.</p>
<p>After the chaos and uncertainty of 2020, colleges and universities throughout the Baltimore region began to find their groove as they moved into the 2021-2022 school year. Coronavirus safety committees had been erected, new mandates put in place, safety protocols implemented—everything from vaccine requirements to temperature checks to quarantine procedures and wastewater testing that can pinpoint a COVID infection before anyone is symptomatic.</p>

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Berardi, with UMBC
President Freeman
A. Hrabowski III,
at OCA Mocha.
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			<p>By some counts, colleges may very well be the safest places to live and work.</p>
<p>“Just following simple rules of wearing face masks and social distancing, using wastewater management and testing when we need to, we have, in many ways, been able to return to normal life,” says Goucher College President Kent Devereaux. “Full athletics, student clubs, dining in the dining hall, use of the library—everything that you’d normally have, we’ve been able to return to.”</p>
<p>Despite the challenges and anxieties faced by students, staff, and faculty alike, some unexpected silver linings have emerged.</p>
<blockquote><p>
<span style="color: #777777; font-size: 18px; font-style: italic;">“It’s just incredible to watch how it’s grown into the vision that we, as a group of students, had.”</span>
</p></blockquote>
<p>The widespread adoption of technology across college campuses has proven to provide more flexibility, efficiency, and innovation—and even accessibility, in some cases. Counseling sessions, for example, began to be conducted remotely during the pandemic and many students found that they preferred it to in-person sessions. Students who cannot, for whatever reason, make it to an in-person class can now study from anywhere.</p>
<p>Challenging times, combined with advances in technology and the general acceptance of it, have also brought more cooperation and collaboration among schools. It’s becoming more common, for example, for schools that offer complementary programs to partner with one another to offer students an educational pathway to continue studies in their chosen areas. That may mean a discounted tuition rate, a transfer of class credits, or an internship through a partner school.</p>
<p>Maybe most importantly though, schools, at their best, foster an environment where students are supported, expand who they are, and connect with like-minded people. At a time when gathering together is not always safe, being in a community has become even more precious, and students have found new ways to connect.</p>

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			<div class="vc_single_image-wrapper   vc_box_border_grey"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1200" height="800" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Blue-and-Gold-Weekend-34_CMYK.jpg" class="vc_single_image-img attachment-full" alt="" title="Blue and Gold Weekend-34_CMYK" srcset="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Blue-and-Gold-Weekend-34_CMYK.jpg 1200w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Blue-and-Gold-Weekend-34_CMYK-768x512.jpg 768w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Blue-and-Gold-Weekend-34_CMYK-900x600.jpg 900w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Blue-and-Gold-Weekend-34_CMYK-480x320.jpg 480w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></div><figcaption class="vc_figure-caption">Goucher students
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			<p>OCA Mocha, a coffeehouse in Arbutus founded by University of Maryland, Baltimore County (UMBC) students, is one example of how effective a gathering place can be at a time when people are craving human connection. What started as a class assignment—to design a community center of some sort—has become a gathering place not just for UMBC students and alumni, but the Arbutus community at large.</p>
<p>“We’ve heard a lot of stories from people who are extremely grateful to have this space,” says Michael Berardi, UMBC class of 2019 and co-founder and general manager of OCA Mocha, which stands for Opportunities for Community Alliances. The coffee shop includes a stage, a community room, and an art gallery, employs UMBC students and alumni, and provides internship opportunities for current UMBC students.</p>
<p>“We have local groups and organizations that meet regularly in our community space and are grateful to not have to meet in someone’s living room or church basement,” says Berardi. “We see a lot of connections being made. It’s just incredible to watch how it’s grown into the vision that we, as a group of students, had.”</p>

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			<figure id="attachment_118266" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-118266" style="width: 427px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-118266 " src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/shutterstock_1553160557_CMYK.jpg" alt="" width="427" height="641" srcset="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/shutterstock_1553160557_CMYK.jpg 1200w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/shutterstock_1553160557_CMYK-533x800.jpg 533w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/shutterstock_1553160557_CMYK-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/shutterstock_1553160557_CMYK-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/shutterstock_1553160557_CMYK-480x720.jpg 480w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 427px) 100vw, 427px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-118266" class="wp-caption-text">—Shutterstock</figcaption></figure>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">MAKE YOUR APPLICATION SHINE</h3>
<p><strong>IT CAN BE TOUGH</strong> to stand out in a crowded application pool, but Ellen Chow, dean of undergraduate admissions at The Johns Hopkins University (JHU), says that being hyper-focused on that may not be effective. “Instead, think about how to represent your most authentic self through your interests, academics, and how you spent your time productively throughout high school so you can present an application that is unique and representative of you, your values, and your goals,” says Chow.</p>
<p>“Spend some time reflecting on your own development and what you want to get out of the college experience,” she continues. “Apply to colleges that will allow you to pursue your interests in a way that’s meaningful to you.”</p>
<p>Here are a few more tips from JHU on how to ace the application:</p>
<p><strong>MAKE YOUR APPLICATION SHOW WHAT IS IMPORTANT TO YOU</strong><br />
It’s important to show your academic character, your contributions, and how you engage with your community.</p>
<p><strong>SHOW WHAT AREAS OF STUDY YOU’RE MOST PASSIONATE ABOUT</strong><br />
A college wants to see how you demonstrate your academic passions. Teacher and counselor recommendations are helpful with this step.</p>
<p><strong>SHOW HOW YOU’VE MADE AN IMPACT</strong><br />
Do you tutor your neighbor? Are you on the all-star softball team every year?<br />
Schools are interested in learning how you’ve initiated change and shown leadership outside the classroom.</p>
<p><strong>SHOW YOUR ROLE IN THE COMMUNITY</strong><br />
Express where you think you’ll shine on campus and how you will contribute.</p>
<p><strong>WRITE AN ESSAY THAT SHOWS WHO YOU ARE</strong><br />
An essay adds depth to an application and allows you to elaborate on who you are.<br />
This is your chance to be creative and let the school hear your voice.</p>

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			<h4>We checked in with colleges and universities throughout the region to find out what’s new and what campus life and classes look like, two years into the pandemic.</h4>

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			<p><a href="https://www.coppin.edu/"><strong>COPPIN STATE UNIVERSITY</strong></a><br />
A historically Black institution founded in 1900, Coppin State University is situated in the heart of Baltimore City in the Mondawmin neighborhood. Part of the University System of Maryland in Baltimore, the school offers 32 undergraduate and 11 graduate degrees, along with nine certificate programs and one doctorate degree. It’s been rated No. 4 Best HBCU in the Nation (College Consensus), the Top 5 Best Value Online Program (Online School Center), and No. 17 Best Value in the Nation (College Consensus).</p>
<p>In the summer of 2021, CSU announced its Student Debt Relief Initiative, which clears roughly $1 million in student balances and provided a $1,200 credit to every student enrolled in the fall 2021 semester. CSU also created the Freddie Gray Student Success Scholarship, which is available to graduates of Carver Vocational-Technical High School, where Gray was a student.</p>
<p>Coppin also takes esports (competitive video gaming) seriously. In the fall of 2021, Coppin became the first HBCU to open a building on campus exclusively devoted to esports. The Premier Esports Lab opened in September with a guest appearance from Grammy-nominated artist Cordae.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: </strong>2,383 undergraduates, 341 graduates</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 13:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $6,809 in-state, $13,334 out-of-state</li>
<li><strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 40%</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Nursing, Business, Biology, Education, and Criminal Justice, Rehabilitation Counseling</li>
</ul>

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			<p><strong>DICKINSON COLLEGE</strong><br />
Founded in 1783, Dickinson College is a liberal arts college in Carlisle, Pennsylvania, with a suburban campus that spans 144 acres. The school offers 41 undergraduate degrees within 17 fields of study.</p>
<p>It’s been rated as one of the best schools in the country for its sustainability efforts, which include an 80-acre, USDA-certified organic farm. Princeton Review rated it No. 2 in the Top 50 Green Colleges, and it was rated No. 2 in Overall Top Performers among baccalaureate institutions in the Association for the Advancement of Sustainability in Higher Education’s “Sustainable Campus Index” in 2019 and 2020.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY:</strong> 2,345</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 9:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $58,708</li>
<li><strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 52%</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> International Business, Economics, Political Science &amp; Government, International Relations &amp; National Security, General Psychology</li>
</ul>

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			<p><strong>GETTYSBURG COLLEGE</strong><br />
Gettysburg College, a private, liberal arts school, sits on 225 acres adjacent to the historical Gettysburg Battlefield in Pennsylvania. Many of the buildings on campus are historically significant, so it’s no wonder that it draws students interested in studying history.</p>
<p>The school offers 65 academic programs, more than 120 campus clubs and organizations, and 800 events on campus each year, plus more than 100 study-abroad opportunities open to students.</p>
<p>Its Majestic Theater serves as a venue for the greater Gettysburg community, hosting national acts as well as performances by the school’s Sunderman Conservatory of Music students.</p>
<p>It’s ranked No. 12 for “students who study the most” by the Princeton Review, which also ranked Gettysburg College’s dining hall No. 9 in the country for best campus food.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY:</strong> 2,600</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 10:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $59,960</li>
<li><strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 56%</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Political Science, Economics, Health Sciences, Organization and Management Studies, History, Psychology</li>
</ul>

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			<div class="vc_single_image-wrapper   vc_box_border_grey"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1200" height="900" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/2018_10_08_ASGGou31_A_CMYK-1.jpg" class="vc_single_image-img attachment-full" alt="" title="2018_10_08_ASGGou31_A_CMYK (1)" srcset="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/2018_10_08_ASGGou31_A_CMYK-1.jpg 1200w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/2018_10_08_ASGGou31_A_CMYK-1-1067x800.jpg 1067w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/2018_10_08_ASGGou31_A_CMYK-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/2018_10_08_ASGGou31_A_CMYK-1-480x360.jpg 480w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></div><figcaption class="vc_figure-caption">Design of new buildings at Goucher. —Courtesy of Goucher College</figcaption>
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			<p><strong>GOUCHER COLLEGE</strong><br />
A private, liberal arts college in Towson, Goucher College prides itself on its close-knit community.</p>
<p>Goucher was extremely proactive when it came to COVID-19 precautions, being the first in the state to implement wastewater testing, which is able to isolate COVID infections by dorm.</p>
<p>Also of note: The college recently opened two new residence halls as part of the school’s First-Year Village. One hundred percent of Goucher students study abroad, and the school is committed to sustainability.</p>
<p>Most recently, Goucher has begun exciting partnerships with other schools, such as Johns Hopkins University, Loyola University, and more to come, to provide a pathway for students to continue their education beyond Goucher. For instance, their 4+1 MBA Program allows students to earn an advanced business degree through Loyola via a “Fast Track” admission process, and at a 15% discount on tuition.</p>
<p><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY:</strong> 1,100<br />
<strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 9:1<br />
<strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $48,000<br />
<strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 79%<br />
<strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Psychology, International Relations, Economics, Political Science, Business Administration</p>

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participate in an
equine event.
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			<p><strong>JOHNS HOPKINS UNIVERSITY</strong><br />
Johns Hopkins University (JHU) offers nine academic divisions and hundreds of courses of study, with campuses spread throughout Baltimore, including the Peabody Institute, a music and dance conservatory in Mount Vernon. Its main Homewood campus is located on North Charles Street.</p>
<p>The prestigious, world-renowned university has a strong reputation for its public health and medical studies and has been compared to Ivy League schools.</p>
<p>One of its points of pride is its financial aid program, which covers 100% of calculated need for every admitted student, without loans. This means JHU works with families to calculate what they can afford to contribute toward the total cost of attendance—including meals, books, travel, and other expenses—and JHU covers the rest with grants that don’t need to be repaid.</p>
<p>This school year, JHU added two new minors: Latin American Studies and Writing Seminars.</p>
<p>It also announced new efforts this year to move toward a broader, more flexible undergraduate educational experience that will include a required first-year seminar and the streamlining of major requirements to allow for greater intellectual exploration.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: </strong>6,333 undergraduates, 22,559 graduates</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 6:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $56,313 for Peabody Institute, $58,720 for the School of Engineering and the School of Arts and Sciences</li>
<li><strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 9%</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Computer Science, Molecular and Cellular Biology, Neuroscience, Economics, Public Health Studies, International Studies</li>
</ul>

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			<div class="vc_single_image-wrapper   vc_box_border_grey"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1200" height="801" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Fall-Campus21-1412_CMYK.jpg" class="vc_single_image-img attachment-full" alt="" title="Fall-Campus21-1412_CMYK" srcset="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Fall-Campus21-1412_CMYK.jpg 1200w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Fall-Campus21-1412_CMYK-768x513.jpg 768w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Fall-Campus21-1412_CMYK-900x600.jpg 900w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Fall-Campus21-1412_CMYK-480x320.jpg 480w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></div><figcaption class="vc_figure-caption">—Courtesy of UMBC/Marlayna Demond</figcaption>
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			<p><strong>LOYOLA UNIVERSITY</strong><br />
This private, Jesuit institution offers undergraduate and graduate programs on a beautiful urban campus in northern Baltimore City. Education at Loyola is based in the Jesuit tradition of scholarship cura personalis, or care for the whole person. Loyola is known for its academic rigor while helping students lead purposeful lives. Seventy percent of students study abroad. It currently ranks fourth in best universities in the North region according to U.S. News &amp; World Report.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: </strong>3,787 undergraduates, 1,353 graduates</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 12:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $53,430</li>
<li><strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 80%</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Business, Management, Marketing, Journalism, Social Sciences, Biological and Biomedical Sciences, Psychology, English Language and Literature, Engineering and Education.</li>
</ul>

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			<div class="vc_single_image-wrapper   vc_box_border_grey"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1200" height="800" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/20210713_SON_0272_CMYK.jpg" class="vc_single_image-img attachment-full" alt="" title="20210713_SON_0272_CMYK" srcset="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/20210713_SON_0272_CMYK.jpg 1200w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/20210713_SON_0272_CMYK-768x512.jpg 768w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/20210713_SON_0272_CMYK-900x600.jpg 900w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/20210713_SON_0272_CMYK-480x320.jpg 480w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></div><figcaption class="vc_figure-caption">—Courtesy of McDaniel College</figcaption>
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			<p><strong>McDANIEL COLLEGE</strong><br />
McDaniel College sits in a bucolic setting near Westminster in Carroll County. The private, four-year liberal arts college offers more than 70 undergraduate programs of study and more than 20 graduate programs. McDaniel’s most recent addition to its curriculum is a National Security Fellows Program that provides students with knowledge, skills, and experience in national security as well as the ability to specialize in an area of interest, such as interstate conflict, intrastate political violence, cybersecurity, ethics, and human rights.</p>
<p>Also new this year, McDaniel appointed an inaugural associate provost for equity and belonging who provides vision and leadership to the Office of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion and works in collaboration with the provost to co-lead the college’s diversity, equity, and inclusion administrative committee, and guides the Bias Education Response Support Team.</p>
<p>The school also launched a new STEM Center to serve as a physical hub to support students studying the sciences. It hosts workshops and other events while also supplying online and hybrid support.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: </strong>1,757 undergraduates, 1,324 graduates</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 13:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $46,336</li>
<li><strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 81%</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Kinesiology, Business Administration, Psychology, Biology, Political Science, International Studies</li>
</ul>

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			<p><strong>MORGAN STATE UNIVERSITY</strong><br />
The largest of Maryland’s HBCU’s (Historically Black Colleges and Universities), Morgan is a public institution founded in 1867. It is situated in northeast Baltimore. As a Carnegie-classified high research (R2) institution, Morgan provides instruction to a multiethnic, multiracial, multinational student body and offers more than 140 academic programs at undergraduate and graduate levels. As Maryland’s Preeminent Public Urban Research University, Morgan fulfills its mission to address the needs and challenges of the modern urban environment through intense community level study and pioneering solutions.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY: </strong>6,270 undergraduates, 1,364 graduates</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 15:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION: </strong>$8,008 for in-state and $18,480 for out-of-state</li>
<li><strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 73%</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Civil Engineering, Communications Engineering, Business Administration and Management, Social Work, Biology/Biological Sciences, Architecture, Finance, Psychology, Sociology</li>
</ul>

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			<p><strong>NOTRE DAME OF MARYLAND UNIVERSITY</strong><br />
A private, Catholic liberal arts university in northern Baltimore, Notre Dame of Maryland University offers programs from undergraduate through PhD, as well as Maryland’s only women’s college. It recently launched the first master’s of art degree in Art Therapy program in the state.<br />
The beautiful, wooded campus is just steps from the bustling downtown Baltimore culture. With values rooted in Catholicism, the school focuses on service to others and social responsibility.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY:</strong> 783</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 7:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $39,675</li>
<li><strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 88%</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Nursing, Education, Biology, Art Therapy, Pharmacy</li>
</ul>

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	</div>

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			<p><strong>TOWSON UNIVERSITY</strong><br />
One of the largest public universities in the state, Towson University offers more than 60 undergraduate majors and continues to draw students from other states, though it remains part of the University System of Maryland.</p>
<p>Its campus continues to expand, with a huge new dining hall, a 23,000-foot recreation and fitness facility with an indoor swimming pool, and its 5,200-seat arena for sporting events and concerts. In 2021, it opened its new Science Complex, the largest academic building on campus at 320,000 square feet.</p>
<p>In September, Towson opened its StarTUp at the Armory, a space for startups and new businesses to engage with the broader community and larger businesses. It serves as a home to Towson’s entrepreneurship programs, as well as student competitions and events.</p>
<p>While Towson remains the largest supplier of medical professionals and educators in the state, the university has also built a strong reputation for its College of Fine Arts and Communication, as well as its Asian Arts &amp; Culture Center, both of which bring students into the wider community and the Baltimore community to Towson for enriching performing arts, music, and visual art programs.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY:</strong> 17,907 undergraduates, 2,949 graduates</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 16:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $7,100 in-state, $22,152 out-of-state</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Business Administration, Education, Nursing, Exercise Science, Psychology, Sociology and Anthropology, Biology, Computer Science, Information Technology</li>
</ul>

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			<p><strong>UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND, BALTIMORE</strong><br />
University of Maryland, Baltimore is Maryland’s only public health, law, and human services university. Located in downtown Baltimore, it offers 86 degree and certificate programs through its six nationally ranked professional schools—dentistry, law, medicine, nursing, pharmacy, and social work—and an interdisciplinary graduate school.</p>
<p>The school’s 14-acre BioPark is Baltimore’s biggest biotechnology cluster, employing 1,000 people, and remains on the cutting edge of new drugs, treatments, and medical devices.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY:</strong> 7,244</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> Varies by school</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Medicine, Law, Dentistry, Pharmacy, Nursing, Social Work</li>
</ul>

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			<p><strong>UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND, BALTIMORE COUNTY</strong><br />
University of Maryland, Baltimore County educates a campus of more than 10,000 students in programs spanning the arts, engineering, information technology, humanities, sciences, preprofessional studies, and social sciences. Located on the edge of Baltimore County, it allows easy access into the city and all the conveniences of suburban life and housing. It also offers plenty of opportunities for study abroad.</p>
<p>In the fall of 2021, UMBC opened the Center for Well-Being, a new two-story complex that houses Retriever Integrated Health, Student Conduct and Community Standards, and i3b’s Gathering Space for Spiritual Well-Being. UMBC’s already significant NASA partnerships have continued to grow. In October, NASA announced a major award of $72 million over three years for the new Goddard Earth Sciences Technology and Research II center. UMBC is leading the national consortium and will receive over $38 million. The GESTAR II consortium will support over 120 researchers, creating extensive opportunities for breakthroughs in Earth and atmospheric science research, and providing major opportunities for students to conduct research and be mentored by NASA scientists and engineers.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>SIZE OF STUDENT BODY:</strong> 13,638</li>
<li><strong>STUDENT TO FACULTY RATIO:</strong> 17:1</li>
<li><strong>ANNUAL TUITION:</strong> $12,280 in-state, $28,470 out-of-state</li>
<li><strong>ACCEPTANCE RATE:</strong> 81%</li>
<li><strong>POPULAR AREAS OF STUDY:</strong> Computer and Information Sciences and Support Services, Biological and Biomedical Sciences, Social Sciences, Psychology, Visual and Performing Arts</li>
</ul>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><em>Cited tuition costs exclude room and board and books.</em></p>

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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/special/baltimore-college-campus-guide-pandemic/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Vibrant Living</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/special/vibrant-retirement-living-regional-continuing-care-facilities-senior-resources/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Megan McGaha]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Mar 2022 17:44:41 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?post_type=special&#038;p=117962</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wpb-content-wrapper"><div class="vc_row wpb_row vc_row-fluid"><div class="wpb_column vc_column_container vc_col-sm-6"><div class="vc_column-inner"><div class="wpb_wrapper">
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			<p><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-117987 alignleft" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/dropcapS.png" alt="S" width="101" height="116" />ue and Thom Rinker, age 74 and 75 respectively, were feeling very isolated in their condo in Baltimore County. “We were ready for a change,” says Sue.<br />
“My mother had lived at a Continuing Care Retirement Community (CCRC) for 20 years and some of our friends had moved to that type of community. We really liked what a CCRC offered.”</p>
<p>According to seniorliving.org, a CCRC (also known as a Life Plan Community) delivers independent living and an amenity-rich lifestyle with access to onsite, higher-level care should a resident’s medical needs progress. The levels of care usually include independent, assisted, memory care, and skilled nursing as well as rehabilitation therapy on the campus. This continuum of care ensures residents that they have the comfort of remaining in the place they call home and the peace of mind that comes from knowing their future care is figured out.</p>
<p><span style="font-size: inherit;">“We wanted a CCRC so our two children who live in the area wouldn’t be burdened with our future healthcare,” Sue continues. “But for now, we are healthy and wanted lots of great amenities.” The Rinkers, who live at Blakehurst in Towson, say that it’s like living at a five-star resort.</span></p>
<p>Robin Somers, CEO of Broadmead, a Life Plan Community in Cockeysville, says, “Today we are seeing many of our residents coming in younger. Rather than in their 80s, they come in their 70s.”</p>
<p>Elizabeth O’Conner, director of marketing and sales at Blakehurst, adds that not only are residents younger, “they are very active.”</p>
<p>Without the drudgery of home maintenance, doing daily chores like cleaning and meal planning, and even trying to get the COVID-19 vaccine booster, there’s time for residents to be physically active and explore myriad intellectual and cultural opportunities. But for those who prefer to spend time alone or with a few friends, there’s that too.</p>
<p>A fitness center ranks high on must-have lists for incoming residents. In many CCRCs, residents will find state-of-the-art equipment, classes including yoga, tai chi, and aerobics, and a heated pool. Sometimes there’s even a juice bar and a spa for manicures, pedicures, and massages. Parker Williamson, 81, is an avid sailor who lives at BayWoods of Annapolis, a waterfront community. He says, “I exercise every other day, but don’t like group classes, so the personal trainer worked up a routine just for me.”</p>

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			<div class="vc_single_image-wrapper   vc_box_border_grey"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="629" height="691" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Broadmead-1278_CMYK-e1647530448341.jpg" class="vc_single_image-img attachment-full" alt="" title="Broadmead-1278_CMYK" srcset="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Broadmead-1278_CMYK-e1647530448341.jpg 629w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Broadmead-1278_CMYK-e1647530448341-480x527.jpg 480w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 629px) 100vw, 629px" /></div><figcaption class="vc_figure-caption">Many CCRC's, like Broadmead, are pet-friendly. Photo courtesy of Broadmead.</figcaption>
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			<p>“Today’s residents want individualization,” remarks Somers.</p>
<p>Sharon Krulak, 79, is a new resident at Blakehurst. She’s also an artist who works in mixed-media. When the Krulaks were looking at Blakehurst, she told O’Connor, “I need a room to do my art. And they made it happen.”</p>
<p>At Broadmead, two residents who were trained and experienced beekeepers had a conversation with the Broadmead executive director, and the Broadmead Apiary was established in 2013. Today, there is a group of six residents who are involved. Throughout the year they inspect the beehives, feed the bees sugar syrup, and harvest the honey into jars for sale.</p>

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			<div class="vc_single_image-wrapper   vc_box_border_grey"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="1200" height="798" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Broadmead-1360_CMYK.jpg" class="vc_single_image-img attachment-full" alt="" title="Broadmead-1360_CMYK" srcset="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Broadmead-1360_CMYK.jpg 1200w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Broadmead-1360_CMYK-768x511.jpg 768w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Broadmead-1360_CMYK-900x600.jpg 900w, https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Broadmead-1360_CMYK-480x319.jpg 480w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /></div><figcaption class="vc_figure-caption">Residents
of Broadmead
playing tennis. Photo courtesy of Broadmead.</figcaption>
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			<p>Usually, CCRCs have councils, committees, and their own governing body where residents can make things happen. “At Blakehurst we have 43 residential-run committees,” says Sue Rinker. “Thom is on the residents’ board and I’m on the refurbishing and jigsaw committees.”</p>
<p>CCRCs have concerts, guest speakers, and some arrange continuing education through Osher Lifelong Learning Institutes (university-based education specifically for people 50 and older) or nearby universities. At Broadmead, they recognize artists within their community and in the greater Baltimore vicinity by having exhibits, programs, and educational outreach. This April, the Broadmead Art Council will host an exhibit of the works of Herman Maril, a Baltimore native known for painting seascapes, interiors, and landscapes. These exhibits and lectures will be open to the greater community.</p>
<p>Other amenities usually include endless clubs, beautiful walking trails, gardens where residents can plant vegetables and flowers, a movie theater, a library, woodworking, a beauty salon and barber shop, card and poker rooms, billiards, bocce, and a resident computer and business center. Some communities have a croquet court, a putting green, and pickleball. As most CCRCs welcome your four-legged family members, there are even dog parks. And in keeping with making life effortless, some places will deliver your incoming packages right to your door. The list of concierge services goes on, including scheduled transportation to grocery stores, shops and more. At Edenwald, a CCRC in Towson, a bus transports residents to cultural events and attractions like the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra at the Meyerhoff, a string quartet at Shriver Hall, and plays.</p>
<p>Cuisine plays an important part in daily life. The number of dining venues depends on the CCRC and so do the plans they offer. Many have a grill, café, bar, and outdoor dining. CCRCs pride themselves on having an excellent chef, offering plenty of choices on the menu, high quality ingredients, and dining experiences resembling a great restaurant.</p>
<p>In this area, all CCRCs are close to vibrant cities—Annapolis, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C. As Parker Williamson, resident at BayWoods, says with a laugh, “What’s great is we can visit Baltimore and D.C. and take advantage of all they have to offer, but we don’t have to live there.”</p>

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			<h4>The Guide to Regional Continuing Care Facilities &amp; Senior Resources</h4>

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			<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/asbury-methodist-village/"><strong>ASBURY METHODIST VILLAGE</strong></a><br />
201 Russell Ave.<br />
Gaithersburg, MD 20877<br />
(301) 216-4001<br />
asbury.org/asbury-methodist-village</p>
<p><a href="http://asbury.org/asbury-solomons"><strong>ASBURY-SOLOMONS ISLAND</strong></a><br />
11100 Asbury Circle<br />
Solomons, MD 20688<br />
(410) 394-3000<br />
asbury.org/asbury-solomons</p>
<p><a href="http://actsretirement.org/communities/maryland/bayleigh-chase-easton"><strong>BAYLEIGH CHASE</strong></a><br />
501 Dutchmans Lane<br />
Easton, MD 21601<br />
(410) 657-4900<br />
actsretirement.org/communities/maryland/bayleigh-chase-easton</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/baywoods-of-annapolis/"><strong>BAYWOODS OF ANNAPOLIS</strong></a><br />
7101 Bay Front Drive<br />
Annapolis, MD 21403<br />
(410) 268-9222<br />
baywoodsofannapolis.com</p>
<p><a href="http://sunriseseniorliving.com/communities/bedford"><strong>BEDFORD COURT</strong></a><br />
3701 International Drive<br />
Silver Spring, MD 20906<br />
(301) 598-2900<br />
sunriseseniorliving.com/communities/bedford</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/blakehurst/"><strong>BLAKEHURST</strong></a><br />
1055 W. Joppa Road<br />
Towson, MD 21204<br />
(410) 296-2900<br />
blakehurstlcs.com</p>
<p><a href="http://brightviewseniorliving.com"><strong>BRIGHTVIEW SENIOR LIVING</strong></a><br />
Multiple locations<br />
(888) 566-8854<br />
brightviewseniorliving.com</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/broadmead-1/"><strong>BROADMEAD</strong></a><br />
13801 York Road<br />
Cockeysville, MD 21030<br />
(410) 527-1900<br />
www.broadmead.org</p>
<p><a href="http://www.bgf.org"><strong>BROOKE GROVE</strong></a><br />
18100 Slade School Road<br />
Sandy Spring, MD 20860<br />
(301) 924-2811<br />
www.bgf.org</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/buckinghams-choice/"><strong>BUCKINGHAM’S CHOICE</strong></a><br />
3200 Baker Circle<br />
Adamstown, MD 21710<br />
(301) 804-2159<br />
actsretirement.org/communities/maryland/buckinghams-choice-adamstown</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/carroll-lutheran-village/"><strong>CARROLL LUTHERAN VILLAGE</strong></a><br />
300 St. Luke Circle<br />
Westminster, MD 21158<br />
(410) 848-0090<br />
clvillage.org</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/charlestown-retirement-community/"><strong>CHARLESTOWN </strong><strong>RETIREMENT COMMUNITY</strong></a><br />
715 Maiden Choice Lane<br />
Catonsville, MD 21228<br />
(410) 405-7683<br />
ericksonseniorliving.com/charlestown</p>
<p><a href="http://collington.kendal.org"><strong>COLLINGTON EPISCOPAL </strong><strong>LIFE CARE COMMUNITY</strong></a><br />
10450 Lottsford Road<br />
Mitchellville, MD 20721<br />
(301) 925-9610<br />
collington.kendal.org</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/edenwald-retirement-and-the-terraces-at-edenwald/"><strong>EDENWALD</strong></a><br />
800 Southerly Road<br />
Towson, MD 21286<br />
(410) 339-6000<br />
edenwald.org</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/elizabeth-cooney-personnel-agency-inc/"><strong>ELIZABETH COONEY CARE NETWORK</strong></a><br />
1107 Kenilworth Drive, Ste. 200<br />
Towson, MD 21204<br />
(410) 323-1700<br />
Elizabethcooneyagency.com</p>
<p><a href="http://fkhv.org"><strong>FAHRNEY-KEEDY</strong></a><br />
8507 Mapleville Road<br />
Boonsboro, MD 21713-1818<br />
(301) 733-6284<br />
fkhv.org</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/fairhaven/"><strong>FAIRHAVEN</strong></a><br />
7200 Third Ave.<br />
Sykesville, MD 21784<br />
(410) 892-1946<br />
actsretirement.org/communities/maryland/fairhaven-sykesville</p>
<p><a href="http://friendshouse.com"><strong>FRIENDS HOUSE RETIREMENT COMMUNITY</strong></a><br />
17340 Quaker Lane<br />
Sandy Spring, MD 20860<br />
(301) 924-5100<br />
friendshouse.com</p>
<p><a href="http://gingercove.com"><strong>GINGER COVE ANNAPOLIS LIFE CARE</strong></a><br />
4000 River Crescent Drive<br />
Annapolis, MD 21401<br />
(410) 266-7300<br />
gingercove.com</p>
<p><a href="http://presbyterianseniorliving.org/glen-meadows-retirement-community"><strong>GLEN MEADOWS </strong><strong>RETIREMENT COMMUNITY</strong></a><br />
11630 Glen Arm Road<br />
Glen Arm, MD 21057<br />
(410) 592-5310<br />
presbyterianseniorliving.org/glen-meadows-retirement-community</p>
<p><a href="http://goodwillhome.org"><strong>GOODWILL RETIREMENT VILLAGE</strong></a><br />
891 Dorsey Hotel Road<br />
Grantsville, MD 21536<br />
(301) 895-5194<br />
goodwillhome.org</p>

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			<p><a href="http://harmonyseniorservices.com/senior-living/md/waldorf/berry-road"><strong>HARMONY AT WALDORF</strong></a><br />
11239 Berry Road<br />
Waldorf, MD 20603<br />
(240) 270-2759<br />
harmonyseniorservices.com/senior-living/md/waldorf/berry-road</p>
<p><a href="http://actsretirement.org/communities/maryland/heron-point-of-chestertown"><strong>HERON POINT OF CHESTERTOWN</strong></a><br />
501 Campus Ave.<br />
Chestertown, MD 21620<br />
(443) 214-3605<br />
actsretirement.org/communities/maryland/heron-point-of-chestertown</p>
<p><a href="http://homewoodfrederick.com"><strong>HOMEWOOD AT FREDERICK</strong></a><br />
7407 Willow Road<br />
Frederick, MD 21702<br />
(301) 644-5600<br />
homewoodfrederick.com</p>
<p><a href="http://homewoodwilliamsport.com"><strong>HOMEWOOD AT WILLIAMSPORT</strong></a><br />
16505 Virginia Ave.<br />
Williamsport, MD 21795<br />
(301) 582-1472<br />
homewoodwilliamsport.com</p>
<p><a href="http://inglesideonline.org/ingleside-king-farm"><strong>INGLESIDE AT KING FARM</strong></a><br />
701 King Farm Blvd.<br />
Rockville, Maryland 20850<br />
(240) 557-8791<br />
inglesideonline.org/ingleside-king-farm</p>
<p><a href="http://leisurecare.com/our-communities/landing-of-silver-spring"><strong>LEISURE CARE: THE </strong><strong>LANDING OF SILVER SPRINGS</strong></a><br />
13908 New Hampshire Ave.<br />
Silver Spring, MD 20904<br />
(301) 388-7700<br />
leisurecare.com/our-communities/landing-of-silver-spring</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/lutheran-village-at-millers-grant/"><strong>LUTHERAN VILLAGE AT </strong><strong>MILLER’S GRANT</strong></a><br />
9000 Fathers Legacy<br />
Ellicott City, MD 21042<br />
(410) 465-2005<br />
millersgrant.org</p>
<p><a href="http://maplewoodparkplace.com"><strong>MAPLEWOOD PARK PLACE</strong></a><br />
9707 Old Georgetown Road<br />
Bethesda, MD 20814<br />
(301) 571-7444<br />
maplewoodparkplace.com</p>
<p><a href="http://mdmasonichomes.com"><strong>MARYLAND </strong><strong>MASONIC HOMES</strong></a><br />
300 International Circle<br />
Cockeysville, MD 21030<br />
(410) 527-1111<br />
mdmasonichomes.com</p>
<p><a href="http://mercyridge.com"><strong>MERCY RIDGE</strong></a><br />
2525 Pot Spring Road<br />
Timonium, MD 21093<br />
(410) 561-0200<br />
mercyridge.com</p>
<p><a href="http://northoaksseniorliving.com"><strong>NORTH OAKS</strong></a><br />
725 Mount Wilson Lane<br />
Pikesville, MD 21208<br />
(410) 484-7300<br />
northoaksseniorliving.com</p>
<p><a href="http://ericksonseniorliving.com/riderwood"><strong>RIDERWOOD VILLAGE</strong></a><br />
3140 Gracefield Road<br />
Silver Spring, MD 20904<br />
(301) 701-4076<br />
ericksonseniorliving.com/riderwood</p>
<p><a href="http://rolandparkplace.org"><strong>ROLAND PARK PLACE</strong></a><br />
830 W. 40th St.<br />
Baltimore, MD 21211<br />
(410) 243-5700<br />
rolandparkplace.org</p>
<p><a href="http://vantagepointresidences.org"><strong>THE RESIDENCES </strong><strong>AT VANTAGE POINT</strong></a><br />
5400 Vantage Point Road<br />
Columbia, MD 21044<br />
(410) 964-5454<br />
vantagepointresidences.org</p>
<p><a href="http://ericksonseniorliving.com/oak-crest"><strong>OAK CREST VILLAGE</strong></a><br />
8800 Walther Blvd.<br />
Parkville, MD 21234<br />
(410) 405-7419<br />
ericksonseniorliving.com/oak-crest</p>
<p><a href="http://mdbonedocs.com"><strong>ORTHOPAEDIC ASSOCIATES </strong><strong>OF CENTRAL MARYLAND</strong></a><br />
Six locations in the area<br />
(410) 644-1880<br />
mdbonedocs.com</p>
<p><a href="http://recordstreethome.org"><strong>RECORD STREET HOME–HOME OF THE AGED</strong></a><br />
115 Record St.<br />
Frederick, MD 21701<br />
(301) 663-6822<br />
recordstreethome.org</p>
<p><a href="http://thevillageataugsburg.org"><strong>THE VILLAGE AT AUGSBURG</strong></a><br />
6811 Campfield Road<br />
Baltimore, MD 21207<br />
(410) 834-4143<br />
thevillageataugsburg.org</p>
<p><a href="http://thevillageatrockville.org"><strong>THE VILLAGE AT ROCKVILLE</strong></a><br />
9701 Veirs Drive<br />
Rockville, MD 20850<br />
(301) 424-9560<br />
thevillageatrockville.org</p>
<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/directory/retirement/we-care-private-duty/"><strong>WECARE</strong></a><br />
1852 Reisterstown Road<br />
Pikesville, MD 21208<br />
(410) 602-3993<br />
wecarepds.com</p>
<p><a href="http://willowvalleycommunities.org"><strong>WILLOW VALLEY</strong></a><br />
600 Willow Valley Sq.<br />
Lancaster, PA 17602<br />
(717) 464-6800<br />
willowvalleycommunities.org</p>

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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/special/vibrant-retirement-living-regional-continuing-care-facilities-senior-resources/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>50 Best Restaurants</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/best-restaurants-baltimore-2022/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Aaron Hope]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Mar 2022 15:52:48 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Best Restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Best Restaurants in Baltimore]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fine dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?post_type=article&#038;p=117144</guid>

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<h3 class="text-center">Edited by Jane Marion</h3> 


<h5 class="text-center">With Suzanne Loudermilk and Mike Unger. Additional reporting by Lauren Cohen and John Farlow</h5>

<p class="text-center">PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT SUCHMAN</p>

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<h3 class="text-center">Edited by Jane Marion</h3> 
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With Suzanne Loudermilk and Mike Unger. Additional reporting by Lauren Cohen and John Farlow
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<h5 class="text-center uppers" style="font-size:1.3rem;">PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT SUCHMAN</h5>

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<p>
THE BEGINNING, that is to say, somewhere around mid-March 2020, this whole <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/covid19/the-joy-of-cooking-at-home-coronavirus/">cooking-at-home thing</a> didn’t seem so bad. In fact, for a moment there, as the pandemic shut down restaurants for indoor dining and I found myself boiling dough for bagels, investing in online cooking classes (thank you Alice Waters for your “MasterClass” extolling the
wonders of California cuisine), indulging in to-go cocktails, and scrolling foodie accounts on Instagram for inspiration, it was actually novel. 
</p>
<p>
But as spring became summer and faded into fall, and another six
months went by, I had to accept that I’d never perfect the five basic sauces.
And as the exhaustion of the daily grind—that is, the making of every
meal—took its toll, I started to dream about dining out again.
</p>
<p>
Of course, even dining out was no easy feat this year, least of all for
those who struggled to keep restaurants afloat. Now, more than ever, I’m in
absolute awe of the folks—that’s the chefs, the sous-chefs, the servers, the
dishwashers, the busboys, the bartenders, the hosts—who have made their
livelihood by working in restaurants. A career in hospitality has never been
easy, but for the past two years, it’s been brutal, and many have abandoned
it altogether.
</p>

<p>
When the pandemic hit, and then wore on, I secretly feared that I’d
never eat out again, or that I’d forget what the experience was even like.
But restaurants adjusted, and so did I. At press time, as life has entered the
third or fourth “new normal” phase, I’ve eaten many a meal in plywood
parklets decorated with festive flowers and vines, in elaborately erected
tents, and in elegant dining rooms, albeit ones with new HVAC and hand
sanitation systems installed. 
</p>
<p>
It turns out that eating out is a lot like riding a bike. Once you learn how
to do it, you never forget. But I had forgotten the pure pleasure of not only
having a professional cook my food, but having someone to serve it. I had
forgotten the joy of having an actual sommelier (that is, someone other
than my son grabbing a bottle from the basement when I shout, “Can you
bring up a bottle of red?”) properly pair a Cabernet with my filet. I had
forgotten what a delight it is to have someone else do the clearing and the
cleaning and what hard work it is to scrape my old cast-iron skillets and
scrub the grease from my oven after setting off the smoke detector.
</p>
<p>
Fortunately, as <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/covid19/the-great-restaurant-reinvention/">pivot after pivot</a> has proven, Baltimore’s restaurant
scene is not going anywhere. Yes, it has staggered and stumbled and
gasped for survival—but it never stopped. In addition to the tried-and-trues
that have, against all odds, endured, amazingly, there have been numerous
notable newcomers that have had the chutzpah to open for the first time at
the height of the pandemic.
</p>
<p>
These days, restaurants have a renewed sense of purpose,
optimism, and more spirit and spunk than ever.
They have never been more inviting, not only because
I, and everyone I know, have missed them, but because
the restaurants missed us, too, and reopened with fresh
resolve. They have created lush, landscaped, outdoor
oases, upped their sanitation game, jettisoned menus
for QR codes, and raised wages to create more equitable
places to work. In these unprecedented times, menus
have been pared down due to sourcing issues, rising food
costs, and labor shortages, though in some instances
that’s also helped raise the quality of everything we eat
with the focus on hyper-local.
</p>
<p>
Yes, restaurateurs have tacked on surcharges at
the bottom of the bill to defray pandemic losses and
enforced stricter cancellation policies. And yet, even
as the pandemic waxes and wanes (and waxes again),
diners are turning out in droves, and getting a Saturday
night reservation on OpenTable at certain hotspots can
be challenging.
</p>
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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">A server
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service in the plant-filled
dining room
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<p>
Happily, in the state of Maryland, reports of the death
of restaurants were greatly exaggerated. Thanks to many
measures, from tight state restrictions to high vaccination
rates to strict protocol at area spots, the number
of closings wasn’t as high as first predicted due to the
pandemic, even with this most recent omicron wave.
</p>
<p>
As of January 2022, 16 percent of all Maryland restaurants had permanently closed,
according to Maryland Restaurant Association President Marshall Weston. That’s 1,800
restaurants, which may sound grim, but consider that back in the fall of 2020, Weston
had predicted that 35 percent would close. In addition, Charm City’s ever-devoted culinary
community supported its favorite restaurants by getting food and cocktails to-go,
picking up DIY baskets, and even hiring chefs to host intimate parties at their homes.
</p>
<p>
Which brings us to this year’s 50 Best Restaurants list, a list we were forced to take
a break from last year, as restaurants were forced to take a break from doing business
as we know it. But restaurants are back—and beckon more than ever. And this is our
tribute to them.
</p>
<p>
In this new world order, it’s important to acknowledge that a Best Restaurant isn’t a
place where everything is perfect. If the pandemic has taught us anything, it’s that life
is all about pressing pause to celebrate the good stuff, especially the ordinary things we
once took for granted, with the ones we love. A Best Restaurant is a place where we feel
like our best selves. A place where, in the company of family or friends, we can bask in
the glow of a warm and inviting environment, eat something wonderful, and leave feeling
fortified, fueled, and connected. In other words, it’s a place that leaves us feeling
more alive than when we first sat down. For one reason or another, each and every one
of the restaurants on these pages—from a neighborhood pizza joint to a James Beard
Award-nominated fine-dining den to an Argentine steakhouse—does exactly that.
</p>
<p>
In these uncertain times, one thing is for certain: Eating out is a privilege we will
never take for granted again. So, sit back, relax, and enjoy every professionally cooked
bite from one of these spots. And remember to tip your server, tag your photos, and
shout from the Shot Tower how much you loved your meal. Restaurants have toiled
mightily to be here for us.
</p>
<p>
And kudos to us, the discerning diners, for being here for them.
</p>

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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
<a href="http://almacocinalatina.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Alma Cocina Latina</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
STATION NORTH
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
1701 North Charles St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
Now in new digs in Station North,
this convivial culinary hub serving
Venezuelan fare is more delicious
than ever—and only serves to
strengthen Baltimore’s reputation
as a foodie town. Husband-and-wife
founders Mark Demshak and Venezuela-born Irena Stein play the role
of preeminent hosts, as they warmly
greet every guest at the door (and
continue to dote once you’re seated).
Back in the kitchen, 28-year-old
wunderkind chef-partner David Zamudio
turns out prettily plated dishes
of roast chicken and delectable
paella. But his arepas, stuffed South
American corncakes, are the stars of
the show. We’re especially fond of
the La Mariscada version, bursting
with grilled octopus, shrimp, and a
drizzle of aioli. Zamudio’s food is
bold and beautiful—and Baltimore
is better for it.
 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Demshak has a master’s degree in
architecture from the University of
Pennsylvania. Stein was a Fulbright
Scholar studying cultural anthropology
at Stanford University.
</p>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
<a href="https://anandarestaurant.net/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Ananda</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
FULTON
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
7421 Maple Lawn Blvd.
</span> </h5>
<p>
When Ananda opened in 2014, it
was a spinoff of the iconic Indian
restaurant The Ambassador Dining
Room, some 25 miles away in
Baltimore. Nearly eight years later,
owners Keir and Binda Singh have
sold The Ambassador, and turned
this once-fledgling restaurant into
a Howard County icon all its own.
Ananda hits all the Best Restaurant
high notes. For starters, the art of
hospitality is on full display here.
The sartorially suited Binda greets
every customer with a warm hug
or handshake and servers are
well-schooled in the nuances of
the menu. The ambiance is dark
and dramatic—and there’s no such
thing as a bad seat, whether you’re
perched on the porch with its glowing
fireplaces, in the dreamy dining
room, or the glorious garden brimming
with Mandevillas and pansies. And then
there’s the food. The restaurant sources
vegetables from its own farm, and the
practice of cooking them (and everything
else, for that matter) is a family
affair. The Singhs’ sister, Kinday, runs
the kitchen, where elegant Northern
Indian dishes like grilled shrimp adrak
served with avocado chutney or fragrant
lamb chops cooked in the tandoor are
on offer. From the minute you enter, the
whole place casts a spell, making every
visit memorable.  
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The stained-glass panels in the dining room
were pulled from a historic mansion in
Bolton Hill. 
</p>

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<p>By Jane Marion</p>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
INNER HARBOR</span> <span class="clan thin uppers" >
414 Light St.
</span>
</h5>

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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">The smoked maitake mushrooms;
chocolate caramel crunch;
pomegranates get prepped; executive
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<p>
<span class="firstcharacter">H</span>ours before dinner service begins at <a href="https://www.matthewkenneycuisine.com/liora" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Liora</a>, a
florist from Flowers & Fancies tends to the
hundreds of pothos and pachysandra plants
sitting on shelving units at the restaurant’s
sunny entrance. At Liora—Hebrew for “light”—the
plants are more than décor; they’re a key to the menu
mission. Vegan ambassador Mathew Kenney, who has
restaurants from Bahrain to Buenos Aires, is proud to
head up the Inner Harbor spot, the first upscale plant-based
restaurant in Baltimore. 
</p>
<div class="picWrap2">
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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">Liora's “cheese” plate.</h5>
</div>
<p>
On this fall day, executive chef Natalie Carter stands
in the open kitchen making the restaurant’s signature
entree of smoked maitake mushroom with cheesy grits.
The dish, like others on the menu, is inspired by Southern
cooking. “We are trying to pay tribute to the fact
that we are the first state under the Mason-Dixon Line,”
says Carter. “We love our collards, our grits, and our
wild mushrooms.”
</p>
<p>
Before placing the lace-like funghi on a roasting
sheet, she chops the rough edges. Next, she fans the
caps out on a sheet pan, breaking them into chunks,
dousing them with extra-virgin olive oil, and salting
them generously. “We want to steam the mushrooms
in all of their glory,” says Carter as she loads them
into a 400-degree oven and then sets fire to a small
tin of hickory chips that will smoke inside and add to
the woodsy flavor. Later, as she plates the dish, she
spoons a pool of cheesy grits—that’s sunflower seeds,
lemon juice, and nutritional yeast as a stand-in for the
dairy—and a handful of collards, braised with tamari-cider
vinegar, caramelized onions, and
Cajun-inspired seasoning flecked with
small slivers of shiitake “bacon,” alongside
the maitakes. After adding the final
touch—a scattering of edible marigold
petals—the dish is full of funk and flavor.
And beautiful to boot.
</p>
<p>
At Liora, all vegetables, from beets
that get barbecued to a jackfruit “crab”
cake, are honored. “In vegan cooking,
I’ve discovered all you need is spices,”
says Carter. “That, and a little bit of oil,
salt, and heat.” For the former chef of
Great Sage in Clarksville, being a vegan
cook translates to pushing herself to be
innovative in the kitchen. That might
mean adding nutritional yeast or blended
cashews into a dish such as macaroni
and cheese to impart umami and mimic
the consistency of cheddar.
</p>
<p>
Ironically, as a young girl Carter was
turned off by plant-based cuisine. “My
mother married a vegan who also didn’t
eat salt or sugar,” she says, “so my first
exposure to vegan food is that it was
godawful.” But after learning about the
health benefits and environmental advantages
of a vegan diet, she decided to
attend Southern Adventist University in
Collegedale, Tennessee, which has one
of the few vegetarian culinary programs
in the country. The experience was revelatory,
and she hasn’t looked back since.
These days, she says, “I’m a vegan chef
because there’s really no reason not to
be one.”
</p>

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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
<a href="https://azumirestaurant.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Azumi</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">HARBOR EAST</span>
 <span class="clan thin uppers">
725 Aliceanna St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
Fish fanatics can’t do much better than a
meal at this Harbor East sushi spot that
boasts pristine products arriving daily
from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market. We’ll
admit that we were sad when longtime
executive chef Andy Gaynor left his post
to <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/former-azumi-chef-andy-gaynor-goes-into-the-cutlery-business/">pursue a knife-making business</a> last
December, but the kitchen, now helmed
by Alisher Yallaev, is sharp as ever. Reserve
a place in The Flame Room at one
of the teppanyaki tables, sit at the sushi
bar and watch how the pros roll, take a
table in the stylish dining room, or rest
outside and watch boats bobbing in the
Patapsco as you contemplate whether to
get the yellow jalape&ntilde;o roll, tiger prawn
tempura, robata lamb chops, or one of
the splendid shareable platters glistening
with an array of sushi and sashimi.
The menu is rife with luxe ingredients
like truffles, uni, and toro. If you’re going
to go on a seafood bender, do it here.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Last year, Azumi sold
one ton of Wagyu.  
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; padding-top:2rem;">
<a href="https://www.thebygonerestaurant.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">The Bygone</a> 
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">HARBOR EAST</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
400 International Dr.
</span> </h5>
<p>
As we soared upward to The Bygone’s
29th floor, a woman remarked that she
could feel her ears pop. We didn’t notice
an altitude change, but we experienced
an attitude change as we stepped into
the restaurant’s entryway, greeted by a
stunning view of Baltimore’s skyline and
a glamorous setting reminiscent of the
Gatsby era, with burgundy velvet curtains,
low lighting, and polished service.
Offerings from the mostly American
menu may seem tame (shrimp cocktail,
slow-cooked short ribs), but the dishes
won over our palates with their stellar ingredients and expert prep. The
salmon ceviche and ethereal gnocchi
supporting chunks of lamb-shank ragout
set the stage for one of the best prime
ribs we’ve ever had, and a seven-ounce
local lump crab cake would make any
Marylander proud. For a time, you really
do feel like you are on top of the
world.  
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The restaurant
claims to have the largest whiskey list
(around 700 bottles) in Maryland. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
<a href="https://charlestonrestaurant.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Charleston</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">HARBOR EAST</span>
 <span class="clan thin uppers">
1000 Lancaster St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
For the past 25 years, the nine-time
<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/james-beard-awards-name-three-baltimore-semifinalists-2022/">James Beard Award finalist</a> chef Cindy
Wolf has hit it out of the park at this
jewel of a restaurant. Every dish she
conjures feels like a sacred offering, be
it bison tenderloin with black truffle
and Burgundy reduction sauce or a foie
gras tortellini en brodo. When Wolf’s not
jetting off to her beloved Paris to eat
at Michelin spots for inspiration, most
mornings begin quietly, as she pages
through her collection of cookbooks
(Julia Child and Guy Savoy are a few of
her muses). She then handwrites her
seasonally inspired menu—a blend of
foundational French cooking with Low
Country influences—for dinner service,
where she’s at the helm night after
night. Wolf’s products are peerless, and
she honors her ingredients by showing
reverence to them with meticulously
composed dishes, each its own work
of art. Then there’s the positively regal
service, a perfect playbook of how to
tend to the table. This is how you do
fine dining—all other restaurants are
on notice. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Wolf once made a five-course lunch for her idol,
Julia Child. 
</p>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
<a href="https://cindylousfishhouse.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Cindy Lou’s Fish House</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">HARBOR POINT</span>
 <span class="clan thin uppers">
1215 Wills St. 
</span> </h5>
<p>
Cindy Lou’s is a haven for fans of elevated
comfort food, and its relaxed décor (think cushiony banquettes and
a flickering fireplace in the center of
the dining room) fits right in with the
theme. The Southern-focused menu—harkening back to co-owners Tony Foreman
and Cindy Wolf’s first Baltimore
restaurant, Savannah, in Fells Point—features soul-soothing standouts like a
cornmeal-crusted chicken-fried steak
and a fried chicken plate smothered in
thyme gravy. If you’re looking for something lighter, there are mid-Atlantic nods,
like the littleneck clam toast appetizer. Add
the pan-seared rockfish in a mushroom
Madeira sauce—plus a killer view of the
Domino Sugars sign glowing over the waterfront—and you’ve got a mesmerizing
meal. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Foreman and Wolf
have ties to the South. Richmond-born
Wolf got her start at Silks inside Planter’s
Inn in Charleston, South Carolina, while
Foreman’s great-grandmother was crowned
Miss North Carolina in 1908. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
<a href="https://cgeno.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Cinghiale</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">HARBOR EAST
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
822 Lancaster St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
Decisions are to be made from the moment
you enter this Harbor East eatery with its
emphasis on Northern Italian cooking. Do
you want to sit on the casual enoteca side
of the restaurant with its warm woods and
bronze boar busts, or head to the osteria,
with white table linens, leather banquettes,
and a fine-dining feel? As for the offerings,
do you want to start with a selection
of imported cheeses from the salumeria,
or should you move straight to selecting
a wine from the cellar of more than 600
labels, including 50 vintages by the glass?
(Yes and yes.) Of course, there’s a delicious
array of food options, which includes a
slew of house-made pastas (spicy squid-ink
spaghetti with shrimp, squid, and lobster is
a Poseidon’s paradise), oh-so-urbane antipasti
(pan-seared foie gras, pasta e fagiole
soup), and an embarrassment of riches
on the entree end (from veal Milanese to
saltimbocca). Even if you’re indecisive, the
good news is, there’s no wrong answer.
Rest assured, the most important decision
you made was to eat here. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The mosaic flooring in the enoteca
was excavated from an ancient stone
quarry in Rome. 
</p>

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<p>By Mike Unger</p>
<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
MT. VERNON</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
205 E. Biddle St.
</span>
</h5>

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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center" > a seasonal
beet salad; new
head chef Scott
Bacon; the
tagliatelle with
braised duck ragu.</h5>
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<p>
<span class="firstcharacter">B</span>y the time an order of tagliatelle with braised duck ragù reaches the kitchen of <a href="https://www.theivybaltimore.com/dine/restaurant/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Magdalena</a>, the “Maryland bistro”
in Mt. Vernon’s swanky Ivy Hotel, most of the heavy lifting
has been done. It started nearly 24 hours before, when
chef Scott Bacon cured duck legs overnight in a blend of salt, spices,
and herbs. The dish, like most of the recently revamped menu, is a
creation of Bacon’s, the aptly named 31-year-old who took over as
head chef in August. He was instrumental in the restaurant’s conceptual
transformation from a fine-dining establishment to a still upscale
but more approachable restaurant that “loosely” interprets
Maryland classics. Steaks and pork chops are still available, but
they’re joined by dishes like crispy-skin bass and roasted pumpkin
and goat cheese ravioli. “This restaurant is very much in the style that
I have been accustomed to cooking in, very locally sourced, very seasonal,”
says Bacon, a Howard County native who previously worked at
Cinghiale. “We have a dry-aged duck breast on the menu, and we get
the ducks in whole, so we have a plethora of legs,” Bacon says as he
prepares for a busy night in December. “Sustainability is something
that I push towards. Using every single part of the animal that you get
is something that I have always been very passionate about.” Thus the
idea for the ragù. The morning after they cure overnight, Bacon
braises the duck legs for about two hours, then shreds them before
refrigerating the mixture. Around noon he makes the dough for the
pasta, which he lets sit for about two hours. “The key to good pasta is
having a good ratio of flour to eggs,” he says. “There’s a very defined
finishing texture depending on what kind of pasta you’re making.”

</p>
<div class="picWrap2">
<img decoding="async" class="singlePic" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/50BestRestaruants_MAGDALENA_nook.jpg"/>
<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">A cozy dining
nook.</h5>
</div>
<p>
Today, he’s making tagliatelle, a thick noodle that pairs well
with the ragù to create a hardy dish. He cuts it by hand, then
balls it into four-ounce portions that are refrigerated until
needed. When an order comes in, he drops a fistful into a pot
of boiling water then gets to work on the meat of the dish. First,
he pours garlic oil into a pan on the range. Next come pearl
onions, which he sautees. He throws in thinly cut endives before
adding four ounces of ragù. “Because the ragù is a byproduct
of the dry-aged duck breast, it’s constantly been in flux,” he
says. “At first, I was doing it with more sherry vinegar and
sweeter flavors. The way it is right now is inspired by stroganoff.”
After he adds braising liquid from the legs, he splashes
in some of the water in which the pasta is boiling to add salt
and starch. Finally, he adds a little sour cream, garlic confit,
and Dijon mustard, ingredients that “thicken it a little bit and
gives it a bite.” Bacon plates the dish by creating a “nest” of
pasta in the bowl, to which he adds saba, an Italian unfermented
grape juice. He’ll repeat this process up to a dozen
times a night; along with the bass and the duck breast, it’s one
of the most popular entree offerings on the menu. He pulls
down his mask and tries a bite. “A dish like this, like any ragù,
is supposed to be hardy, so the thickness of the pasta and the
fact that it’s got a nice chew to it adds to all of that,” he says
approvingly. “[With] a lot of the stuff that I cook, especially in
the wintertime, I’m trying to take you home.” If home came
equipped with a world-class chef, that is.
</p>
</hr>
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<hr>
<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; padding-top:2rem;">
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/bar_clavel/?hl=en" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Clavel</a>
</h2>
<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
REMINGTON
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
225 W. 23rd St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
Six years ago, this little taqueria took Remington
by storm with its scrumptious tacos
and marvelous mezcal program. We locals
loved it from the start, but word soon went
beyond our borders with routine recognition
in industry bibles like <i>Condé Nast
Traveler</i>, <i>Bon Appétit</i>, <i>Esquire</i>, and <i>Saveur</i>,
which called co-owner Lane Harlan “The
Most Interesting Woman in the Restaurant
Business.” And then there’s that little thing
called a James Beard Award nomination
for Outstanding Bar Program, for which the
mezcaleria has been nominated two times. Chef/co-owner Carlos Raba was also nominated this year in the Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic category. 
But all those accolades have not led Clavel
to rest on its laurels. Since reopening for
indoor dining in mid-2021, Harlan and Raba have devised an
expanded menu of zippy cocktails and fantastic
tortas and ceviches. Be forewarned:
The minions flock just before opening
hours—but standing in line at Clavel has
become something of a Charm City rite of
passage.  
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Clavel nixtamalizes
its own corn tortillas, which makes
them deeply flavorful and more nutritious
than processed versions. 
</p>
<hr>
</div>
</div>


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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.cosimamill1.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Cosima</a>
</h2>
<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
WOODBERRY</span>
<span class="clan thin uppers">
3000 Falls Rd.
</span> </h5>
<p>
From the complimentary pillowy cheese
rolls laced with cranberries at the beginning
of a meal to the doughnuts dressed
in cinnamon at the end, Cosima delivers
homespun hospitality and earnest Southern
Italian fare in a chic, renovated mill.
Veteran chef Donna Crivello, billed as the
concept director, devised a dining establishment
that pays tribute to her grandmother’s
name and cooking. Once you turn
down the winding driveway off Falls Road,
you feel like you’ve entered a Mediterranean
plaza. Inside, diners can nosh on
brick-oven pizzas, Mama’s meatballs, porcini
pappardelle, and a standout meatloaf
stuffed with a soppressata-and-mozzarellawrapped
egg and painted with a spicy marinara
sauce. There’s also a deck overlooking
the Jones Falls, where patio heaters chase
away the chill, herons fly by, and Nonna’s
spirit lives on.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Before
Crivello became a chef and restaurateur in
the 1990s, she was an art director at <i>The
Baltimore Sun. </i>
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://ddgbaltimore.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Duck Duck Goose</a>
</h2>
<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
FELLS POINT
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
814 S. Broadway
</span> </h5>
<p>
When you start your meal with something
as picture-perfect as the ratatouille at this
tony brasserie, you know it’s going to be a good one. The thinly sliced rounds of
squash, zucchini, and tomato—seasoned
just so, painstakingly stacked,
and topped with frisée—make up one
of the many dishes that chef Ashish
Alfred uses to show Baltimore what
European cuisine is all about. Others
include a Parisian gnocchi with chanterelles,
herby lemon-garlic escargot,
and the namesake honey-roasted duck
breast over green lentils—which arrives
topped with roasted grapes and
bathed in a sweet sauce poured tableside.
From the artful plating to the
stylish décor, this is the kind of spot
that truly transports you. But don’t get
us wrong, it’s not stuffy. Whether you
make a reservation for an intimate
dinner or go for a round of drinks
(the bourbon and citrus-forward Le
Petit Mort cocktail is a winner), you’ll
find that the ambience is as laid-back
as Alfred himself. 

</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Alfred—who has been sober for seven
years—offers one of the most impressive
zero-proof drink menus we’ve
seen. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://dylansoyster.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Dylan’s Oyster Cellar</a>
</h2>
<h5> <span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
HAMPDEN
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
3601 Chestnut Ave.
</span> </h5>
<p>
There’s so much more to this always-happening
seafood bistro than
just oysters (though this is a great
place for the uninitiated). Start with
the cocktails, which are inventive
and made with care. Of course, the
namesake shellfish, whether they’re
consumed raw or roasted, are topnotch,
but the kitchen shines in all its
endeavors. Case in point: the juicy,
crispy-edged smashburger, served on a
quality bun that couldn’t hold a single
additional sesame seed. Small plates
like fried calamari and potato skins
with a horseradish dipping sauce work
as appetizers, sides, or a small entree.
All hail the crispy coddies, made of cod
and mashed potatoes, too. On a recent
visit, we tried the lesser-known, local
red drum served with sweet potatoes
and kale. Like everything here, it all
worked wonderfully together.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Co-owner Irene Salmon Donnelly
<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/videos/the-making-of-tiki-mugs/">hand-made the clay vases</a> that
adorn each table. 

</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.the-food-market.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">The Food Market</a>
</h2>
<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
COLUMBIA
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
10480 Little Patuxent Pkwy.
</span> </h5>
<p>
The whimsy that defines Chad Gauss’s
original Food Market in Hampden
translates—albeit in a suburban kind of way—to the restaurant’s second
location in Howard County. We’ll never
quit the Hampden original, but we
couldn’t resist giving this shiny new
spot a little extra love this year. Once
you enter the dining room, the atmosphere
is as lively, the service as attentive,
and the food as imaginative as it
is at its big brother. Start with an order
of mini lamb porterhouses, generously
seasoned with an espresso rub. The
shrimp dinner, served with andouille
sausage atop cheddar grits with a Cajun
thyme cream, conjures thoughts of
a lusty jambalaya. Roasted beef short
rib with whipped potatoes, carrots,
Gouda, and a crispy onion ring is a
perfect meal for a chilly night. We’ve
never had duck as tender as the bird
that came in the confit gumbo, which
was presented with a tiny unopened
bottle of Tabasco sauce on top. If that’s
not whimsical, we don’t know what is.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Instead of bread,
the restaurant serves popcorn with
Parmesan and truffle seasoning before
dinner. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.foragedeatery.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Foraged</a>
</h2>
<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
STATION NORTH
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
1709 N. Charles St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
Like many restaurateurs at the height
of the pandemic, Chris Amendola
feared for the future of Foraged. But
fortunately, the chef, a certified mushroom
forager, kept cooking, and his
legions of fans kept coming. In fact,
things have never been better. Last
December, Foraged moved from its
former slip of a space in Hampden
to “restaurant row” in Station North.
There’s now a full bar with clever
cocktails, almost twice as many seats,
and the ultimate imprimatur, former
<i>Sun</i> food critic Richard Gorelick as the
restaurant’s host. Thankfully, what
hasn’t changed is the vigilantly seasonal
menu. Here, every plate feels
like a gift of the season—a simple
tomato dish with goat cheese, watermelon,
basil, and wineberry vinaigrette
is summer on a plate, while the
duck breast with squash pur e and
fennel expresses every element of fall.
The chef’s love affair with mushrooms
remains intact, so look for plenty of
wildly creative funghi-forward dishes,
too.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
From collards
to marigolds, Amendola is growing
an “edible forest” behind his Freeland
home to provide native and heirloom
crops for Foraged. 
</p>
<hr>
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<p>By Jane Marion</p>

<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
SPARKS-GLENCOE</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
14833 York Rd.
</span>
</h5>

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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">The salmon in sorrel sauce; Chef Chris Scanga before service; hunting lodge décor; the Hearth Room.</h5>
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<p>
<span class="firstcharacter">A</span>t one o’clock on a fall afternoon at <a href="https://themiltoninn.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">The Milton
Inn</a>, several diners sit on the alfresco patio
while a couple enjoys a bottle of wine and the
prix-fixe lunch of braised beef short rib with
honeynut squash purée in red-wine reduction sauce. In the
back of the house, the restaurant’s chef-partner Chris
Scanga moves around the kitchen, overseeing the curing of
the salmon, entering the walk-in refrigerator to survey the
daily ingredients sourced from local farms (edible flowers
and Jerusalem artichokes from Karma, beets and acorn
squash from Ridgefield), checking on deliveries, and getting
ready to break down the squab, which will later get
pan-roasted and served with potato dauphinoise as one of
about a dozen principal plates on this French-focused,
game-forward menu.

</p>
<div class="picWrap2">
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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">Bartender Andrew Dissen</h5>
</div>
<p>
Even on this first-ever day of lunch service since the restaurant’s
opening in July, it’s a rare quiet moment for a chef
who has been going full tilt for many months now. Within
days of the summer opening, reservations were booked for
weeks. A lot is riding on this moment for the former Petit
Louis Bistro chef, who, along with restaurateurs Tony Foreman
and Cindy Wolf of the Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group,
became a partner of the place—salvaging a county institution
when the original 70-year-old restaurant of the same
name became an early casualty of the pandemic.
</p>
<p>
“I knew we’d get crushed,” says Scanga, whose job
keeps him on his feet about 16 hours a day. “I knew once
we opened, I’d be eating hot dogs and protein shakes and
not exercising, so starting in January, I ate a very specific
diet and exercised and lifted weights to get myself in proper
form. I knew what was coming. But if I’m going to get a
chance to be in the race, I might as well run. I trained for
this like I would train for an Olympic event.”
</p>
<p>
Though he’s now 30 pounds lighter since the inn opened
three months ago, he says it was worth it—and it’s hard to
argue. Hours later, during dinner service, as museum-worthy
plates come off the line—a pâté en croûte punctuated
by flash-fried sage sitting on a smear of raspberry purée, an
Instagram-worthy plate of steak tartare with Ossetra caviar—it’s clear that the chef is going for the gold.
</p>
<p>
At the beginning of dinner service—which will eventually
top out at 180 guests—Scanga sips a cup of coffee while
reviewing the tickets. “Swordfish, medium-well, pick-up magret,”
he calls out in a mixture of English and what he calls
“kitchen French and Spanish.” “One <i>saumon</i> in sorrel sauce.”
</p>
<p>
The salmon in sorrel sauce, one of the most popular
items on the otherwise game-heavy menu, was
inspired by the classic dish at Troisgros in the heart
of the Loire Valley, one of the regions of Southern
France that defines the menu. The 32-year-old chef
learned to cook the dish by watching a YouTube video
of a chef making it from the storied restaurant.
“This is our interpretation of the dish, but I haven’t
strayed too far,” he says. “The mission here is to
bring French cooking to people who have had it and
are like, ‘this is the real deal,’ or they haven’t had
it and are like, ‘this is approachable, and it makes
sense, it’s easy to get behind.’” For this particular
dish, Scanga has added his own spin by pairing it
with haricots verts and lightly fried rings of onion.
He sends some 40 orders out into the dining room a
night—and tonight is no exception.
</p>
<p>
With a quick break in the action
around six o’clock, he takes a moment to
reflect. “Essentially, we have three people
feeding 200 people in two hours,” he
says. “You’d think it seems like less of a
miracle the more you understand, but
the more you understand, the more of a
miracle it is.”
</p>

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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://gertrudesbaltimore.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Gertrude’s
Chesapeake Kitchen</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
CHARLES VILLAGE
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
10 Art Museum Dr. 
</span> </h5>
<p>
Open since 1998, Gertrude’s is one of those reliable restaurants that may get overlooked as new upstarts vie for our attention. But every time we go, we think, “Why don’t we come here more often?” Attached to the Baltimore Museum of Art, the dining room is soothing, with a taupe-and-red palette and cloth-covered tables. In these tense times, an outside stone terrace, partially tented, offers solace, too, overlooking a bubbling fountain and the museum’s impressive sculpture garden. The scene is boosted by chef-owner John Shields’ commitment to serving seasonal, local ingredients with a focus on the Chesapeake Bay. We never tire of Gertie’s crab cake—named after Shields’ grandmother, Gertrude Cleary, also the restaurant’s namesake—or the fried oysters, or the crispy Maryland pan-fried chicken, blessed with mashed potatoes and gravy. The state’s culinary heritage is on full display here
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Baltimore native Shields didn’t always hawk the bounty of the bay. One of his first cooking gigs was at a French restaurant in Berkeley, California.
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://eatatgunther.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Gunther & Co.</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
BREWERS HILL
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
3650 Toone St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
There’s always something fascinating
on the menu at this restaurant, housed
inside the century-old boiler room
of the Gunther Brewing Company. It
closed for three extended stretches
during the pandemic, but when we
visited on the Tuesday after Thanksgiving,
the multiple bars and dining
rooms (including a wow-worthy patio
with fire and water features) were
bustling. We started with Maine halibut
crudo with passion fruit, coconut milk,
and habanero, topped with avocado
and crispy rice. Next came the grilled
bone-in pork chop, a tremendous piece
of meat whose flavor was accentuated
by the accompanying crispy smashed
sweet potatoes, sherry-maple-glazed
fried Brussels sprouts, bacon lardons,
fennel, and apple-Dijon purée. Aesthetics
matter here. The cocktails and
dishes are attractively assembled, and
the restaurant’s interior design is warehouse
chic. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Each bill comes with a three percent “Labor
of Love” service charge that’s used to provide health insurance, lost earnings,
etc. to the restaurant’s staff. You can opt
out by asking your server, but we support
the sentiment. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="http://www.helmand.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">The Helmand</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
MT. VERNON
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
806 N. Charles St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
Is this 32-year-old Afghan treasure the
sexiest spot in the city? No. In restaurant
years, 30 is an eternity. But here’s
the thing: It’s still one of the best. When
you walk into the charmingly unstuffy
dining room, you’re treated like a treasured
guest. The menu rarely changes,
which is a good thing. There’s simply
no improving on classic appetizers like
banjan laghatek, aka stewed eggplant
with garlic, tomatoes, and peppers
served with yogurt and cilantro sauces,
or mantwo pastry shells filled with
onions and beef topped with yellow
split pea sauce. The koufta challow beef
meatballs—seasoned with sun-dried
baby grapes, paprika, and turmeric,
served in a green pepper, green pea,
and tomato sauce—is beautifully
complex. No matter what makes its
way from your plate to your stomach,
each bite leaves you excited to find
out what the next bite will bring. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The Helmand sources the
pumpkins for its beloved kaddo borwani
appetizer from a family farm in
Howard County. 
</p>
<hr>
</div>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.ironbridgewines.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Iron Bridge Wine Company</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
COLUMBIA
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
10435 State Route 108 
</span> </h5>
<p>
Celebrating two decades next year,
this cozy haunt along Route 108 in
Columbia is remarkable as ever—and
the wine still takes center stage. To wit:
You’ll see endless rows of vino, bottled
everywhere from Sonoma to Spain,
on display in the snug dining rooms.
And with a rotating menu of seasonal
dishes, as well as recurring specials,
you can feel the pride this place takes
in being both a destination for visitors
and a go-to for locals. It doesn’t
hurt that chef Corey Laub—formerly
of Fork & Wrench—is a HoCo native.
Since September, Laub has whipped
up inventive fare such as mushroom-stuffed
porchetta and a seafood stew
loaded with scallops, mussels, shrimp,
clams, and soft squid ink spaetzle. On
a recent outing, we savored every bit
of the spicy tomato broth, along with a
satisfying lamb flatbread and butternut
squash-stuffed arancini. Even the house burger with pimento cheese has that extra
something special. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Every
Tuesday is crème brûlée night. If you’re
served the prized ramekin without chocolate
ganache, you win a free bottle of wine
or dinner. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://jbgbutchery.com/menujbgbs" class="restlink" target="_Blank">JBGB’s</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
REMINGTON
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
2600 N. Howard St. 
</span> </h5>
<p>
There’s a butcher shop and upscale restaurant
in the industrial brick building on
North Howard Street in Remington that’s
worth your while. No, we’re not talking
about Parts & Labor, which appeared on
this very list before closing in 2018. Into
that void stepped JBGB’s, a sister spot
to the popular John Brown General and
Butchery in Cockeysville. Not that the
former is a carbon copy of the latter. Pizza
is the star at this fantastic new restaurant.
In addition to the wonderfully cheesy pies
that emerge from the wood-fired oven,
executive chef Tyler Johnson offers approachable
entrees ranging from a cheeseburger
to chicken to Bolognese. Appetizers
like steak tartare and the pâté plate use
meat from the butcher side of the house. All are terrific, but not even they outshine
bar manager Shaun Stewart’s inventive
cocktail list that includes the Dijon-Vu, a
mustard-based drink that’s shockingly
refreshing and unlike anything we’ve ever
tried.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Buy something at
the butcher shop and the butcher will hold
your purchases in a fridge until after your
meal.  
</p>
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<p>By Mike Unger</p>

<h5>
CANTON <span class="clan thin uppers">
2322 Boston St.
</span>
</h5>

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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center"> Lamb buns; red braised
pork; owner Lydia
Chang and head chef
Antoni Szachowicz;
the Red-Crowned
Crane mocktail.</h5>
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<p>
<span class="firstcharacter">C</span>hef Antoni Szachowicz inspects the lamb bun with the focus of a jeweler examining a diamond. Minutes earlier, he’d applied a curry crust around the rim of the bun and
put it back in the oven for an additional four minutes. Now he’s checking to ensure
that it’s perfect before sending it out into the dining room at <a href="https://www.nihaobaltimore.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">NiHao</a>, Lydia Chang’s
wildly popular and innovative Chinese restaurant that was just named a semi-finalist for Best New Restaurant by the James Beard Foundation. “What we’re trying to achieve is to get the bun brownish without over-cooking the curry crust on top,” he says. “If you put the curry on too early, you’ll have a brown crumbly crust versus something that’s a little bit lighter and brighter looking.” It’s a Tuesday evening in November, and this final eyeballing is the culmination of a process that began hours ago. The filling for the buns, which were created in part by Szachowicz, who’s worked at the restaurant since it opened in July 2020, starts as ground lamb. Szachowicz roasts 20 pounds of it for 15 to 20 minutes to render some of the fat. In goes garlic, ginger, and red onion, then Szechuan chili powder and peppercorn and toasted cumin. “It’s almost like a standard braise,” he says. “You sear your meat, take out the meat, you sear your vegetables or your aromatics, deglaze the pot, add the meat back in.”
</p>
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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">Chang presides.</h5>
</div>
<p>
After Szachowicz pours in vegetable stock and soy sauce, the mixture cooks for about 90
minutes on the stove before being placed into a large mixing bowl with ice underneath for a half hour of cooling. It’s then placed into raw dough made from buttermilk, butter, flour, eggs, and yeast. Once the buns are formed, they’re steamed for 12 minutes before being refrigerated. When an order comes in, the buns are re-steamed, then baked at 400 degrees for three minutes before the curry crust—a combination of butter, Crisco, flour, sugar, and an Indian brand of massaman curry paste—is added. Szachowicz is meticulous in ensuring each one comes out just right. As he pokes and prods the buns, cooks prep for the dinner rush in the small second-story kitchen. One stirs a boiling pot of stock made from duck bones while another slices mustard greens for the shrimp dumplings and a third chars cabbage for an eggplant dish.
</p>

<p>
The sophistication of NiHao’s fare helped
it earn accolades from the likes of <i>Esquire</i>
and <i>The Washington Post</i>. Lydia Chang’s
father, Peter, is a renowned chef with
several restaurants in the D.C. area, but
here his role is primarily an advisory one.
Lydia runs most facets of the restaurant,
but she is not a chef. She leaves the cooking
to Szachowicz, whose idea it was to
replace the buns’ crabmeat with lamb
when the cost of former skyrocketed.
“It’s a very classic flavor combination,”
Szachowicz says of the buns, which pack
a multitude of flavors. “The pungency of
the cumin helps counteract some of the
gaminess of the lamb. Cumin and curry
go well together, as well. The filling itself
is rich. The sweetness from the curry
crust balances it out so you get sweetness
and savory.”
</p>

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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.labarritarestobar.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">La Barrita</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px; ">
BUTCHER’S HILL
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
32 N. Chester St. 
</span> </h5>
<p>
Even on a raucous Friday night in January
when nary a table or barstool is unoccupied,
the staff at this three-year-old rowhouse
restaurant specializing in Argentine
fare doesn’t appear to be stressed. In fact,
they seem to be having a blast—there’s
no doubt that the diners are, and for good
reason. Each course that arrives is better
than the last. The meal starts with warm
bread (like everything else here, made in-house)
with chimichurri. This is a recurring
theme: Almost everything tastes even better
when topped with that delectable traditional
Argentine sauce. Empanadas arrive
next. All the varieties are tasty, but we’re
partial to the Angus beef. Our main course,
Costilla Entera, is a bone-in short rib that is
cooked to perfection. As we try to finish it,
the crowd starts to thin out and the volume
begins to subside. But we linger, finishing
our Malbec and enjoying conversation with
our party—and our bartender.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
In Spanish, La Barrita means “the
little bar.” 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.lacucharabaltimore.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">La Cuchara</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
HAMPDEN-WOODBERRY
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
3600 Clipper Mill Rd. 
</span> </h5>
<p>
When the Basque Country-themed La
Cuchara opened some seven years ago, not
many Baltimoreans knew what the name
meant (“the spoon” in Spanish) or what an
asador or pintxos were (a wood-fired grill
for preparing protein and small snacks,
respectively), let alone how to pronounce
them. But great restaurants expand our
horizons, pushing our palates to electrify
all 10,000 of our tastebuds. La Cuchara
does just that. The restaurant is a family affair, with Jake Lefenfeld working the bar
and front-of-house, while his big brother,
chef Ben Lefenfeld, transports us to the
Pyrenees with every slice of Ibérico ham
and shot of sherry. Ben’s wife, Amy, works
mostly behind the scenes. The ingredients
are impeccably sourced (sprat tin fish from
the Baltic Sea!), and the food manages to
be both refined and rugged. The Lefenfelds
always delight us with new surprises on
every outing, while old standards like the
pan con tomate continue to sate. The paella
with sofrito rice is the best example of
the dish we’ve ever eaten. Don’t miss the
tented patio—it’s charming in every season. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The Basque Country
boasts the most Michelin-starred spots per
capita in the world.
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://lascaladining.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">La Scala Ristorante Italiano</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
LITTLE ITALY
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers" >
1012 Eastern Ave.
</span> </h5>
<p>
While many other Little Italy restaurants
have folded, La Scala has survived and
thrived for more than 25 years with its
authentic Old World Italian dishes. You can
count on long-simmered sauces, housemade
pasta, impeccable meats and seafood,
and traditional desserts. And as he’s
done for years, chef-owner Nino Germano
cruises through the dining room nightly,
checking on new and familiar diners. At one
table, there might be two elderly neighborhood
guys dishing about the old days over
a bottle of Chianti. At another, a quartet of
millennials downing fancy cocktails and
down-home spaghetti. As Pavarotti belts
out tunes over the sound system, it’s easy
to be wooed by the charming brick walls
and wrought-iron d cor, while savoring
crisp calamari, Bolognese with spinach
fettuccine, and shrimp scampi in a buttery,
garlicky sauce. We’re smitten. A chocolate-hazelnut
cannoli at the end of the night
seals the deal.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
An indoor
bocce court was added to the restaurant in
2008. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.comptoirbaltimore.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Le Comptoir du Vin</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
STATION NORTH
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers" >
1729 Maryland Ave.

</span> </h5>
<p>
During the pandemic, Rosemary Liss and
Will Mester transformed their nationally
renowned European-style bistro into a
specialty shop that, at various points, sold
bottles of natural wine, curated pantry
items, and takeout sandwiches. When we
heard they were re-starting weekend dinner
service in late November, we were
so excited that we were there on opening
night. It was as if almost nothing had
changed. Cocktails and nine dishes were written on chalkboard menus, and everything
we tried was as expertly prepared as
we remembered. We started with a bowl
of marinated olives before moving on to a
beautifully simplistic poached chicken with
carrots and turnips in a rosemary-anchovy
broth. The beef cheek and fontina toastie
was essentially a delectable grilled cheese
for grown-ups. We finished with a plate
of Coolea, an Irish cheese in the style of a
Dutch Gouda. It was a lovely way to cap off
a triumphant return.  
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The
restaurant recently debuted a new dining
space downstairs that’s understated but
warm and inviting. 
</p>
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<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
RIVERSIDE</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
1843-45 Light St.
</span>
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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">Kale and pistachio pizza
and clam pizza; spaghetti
carbonara; owners Josh
and Stephanie Hershkovitz.</h5>
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<p>
<span class="firstcharacter">W</span>hile a student at the University of Chicago,
co-owner Josh Hershkovitz studied art and philosophy.
Fortunately for us, he applies his education
to culinary endeavors, with an emphasis on
thin-yet-sturdy wood-fired pizzas and visually
delightful pastas that are, indeed, thought provoking
(as in we can’t stop thinking about
them for days after downing them). From the fig-infused
rye whiskey to the gnocchi, everything
is made in-house, and no shortcuts are taken.
Behold the bubbly crusted white pie that’s a
clever combination of kale and pistachios, or the
New Haven clam pie, a ringer for Frank Pepe’s
legendary Connecticut creation. There’s also a
spaghetti carbonara that tastes exactly like the
versions we’ve eaten in Rome and seasonal items
that astonish, like a late-summer corn pancake
topped with Gulf shrimp. A visit to the humble
<a href="https://hershs.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Hersh’s</a> feels like you’ve just joined the cool kids
at the greatest neighborhood block party.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
 On their website, Josh and his co-owner-sister Stephanie promise Will Ferrell a free
meal should he decide to stop by. (The siblings’
favorite movie is <i>Anchorman.</i>) 
</p>


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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="http://www.limoncellobaltimore.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Limoncello</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
LOCUST POINT
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers" >
900 E. Fort Ave. 

</span> </h5>
<p>
Although the meatball is monstrous in
size, its building blocks are humble. Like
so much at this suave Southern Italian restaurant,
the appetizer relies on the harmonization
of its simple but quality ingredients—Kobe beef, mortadella, tomato rag,
whipped ricotta—to create a delectable
dish. This approach is found throughout the
menu. Seared scallops topped with crispy
prosciutto soar. Orecchiette pasta tastes
as beautiful as it looks in the bowl, with
crumbled fennel sausage and roasted garlic
broccoli rabe. A plate of grilled shrimp,
swordfish, calamari, and octopus allows the
flavors of the seafood to speak for themselves.
Speaking for ourselves, every time
we leave this stylish and quite comfortable
dining room, we’re already thinking about
what we’ll order when we come back.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
To make its namesake liqueur, the restaurant uses whole-grain alcohol—not vodka. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.linwoods.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Linwoods</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
OWINGS MILLS
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers" >
25 Crossroads Dr.

</span> </h5>
<p>
Thirty-eight years ago, Ellen Rothschild,
then a political TV reporter in Richmond,
and Linwood Dame, a Culinary Institute
of America grad who owned a cafe, fell in
love. Soon after, they were married and
dreamed of opening their own restaurant,
which they decided to do back in Ellen’s
backyard of Baltimore. On an electric typewriter,
they hatched a plan for an upscale
spot with regional American small plates—and they named it Linwoods. Decades later,
the concept remains the same—and this
County gem remains a labor of love. Ellen
works front-of-house, while “Woody”
works in the open kitchen, mentoring
his staff, putting the finishing touches on
always-delicious seasonally inspired plates
(butternut squash ravioli, crab gazpacho) and signature standards (tenderloin salad,
scampi pizza). Linwood also eyeballs
every dish before it’s sent into the sleek
dining room, filled with loyal regulars who
treat the spot as their de facto home away
from home. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Linwoods'
open kitchen was one of the first of its
kind in the area. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://lochbar.com/baltimore/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Loch Bar</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
HARBOR EAST
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
240 International Dr.

</span> </h5>
<p>
Despite all the challenges that the restaurant
industry has confronted lately,
raw bars and seafood restaurants abound
in our city—and we couldn’t be happier.
Among our favorites is Loch Bar. Here
you’ll find a tempting selection of raw
oysters, towering sandwiches, and hearty
main courses. The welcoming pub-like
atmosphere and plush banquettes give
the airy space a relaxed demeanor to
complement a great view of the city
waterfront. The menu reads like a casual
seafood joint, but everything is elevated.
The fish and chips features a succulent
piece of rockfish without much batter, the
lobster roll spills over with whole claws
and generous amounts of tail meat, and
the Chesapeake club sandwich is stuffed
with enough shrimp salad and crab cake
to feed two. Go early to nab a waterside
booth for the total experience. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The marble surfaces were culled
from a quarry in Vermont that was also
used to build some Washington, D.C.,
monuments. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://maximonrestaurant.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Maxim&ograve;n</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
HARBOR EAST
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers" >
200 International Dr.

</span> </h5>
<p>
The smell of the carne asada marinated in
Peruvian soy sauce and chiles precedes
its arrival. When the sizzling steak is
wheeled to your table, a server uses scissors
to cut it into smaller pieces, which are
served with poblanos, onions, and housemade
salsas. The wait is torturous, but oh
so worth it. Whether mixed with rice and
placed on terrific corn tortillas or eaten
right off the plate, the dish is one of the
best we’ve had in the city. Lots of other
things on the menu of this bustling Latin-focused
restaurant and lounge inside the
Four Seasons are quite good—rockfish
ceviche, grilled shrimp and crab tacos,
and a side of potatoes with cured egg
yolk, botija powder, and huancaina sauce
among them. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Live music,
often Latin jazz, is featured on weekend
evenings. It’s sometimes followed
by a DJ. Both provide a boisterous party
atmosphere. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://monarquebaltimore.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Monarque</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
HARBOR EAST
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
1010 Fleet St.

</span> </h5>
<p>
This dark and dramatic steakhousecum-cabaret sizzles with sex appeal,
which is why a meal here is all about
carnal pleasures. There are the cheekily
named cocktails like the Ma Chéri and
La Vie en Rose, the nimble Monarquette
burlesque performers and a sword
swallower, and a meat-heavy menu
replete with steaks and chops, aged
and prime. It’s all about decadence at
Monarque, so other menu items, like
the rich onion soup, succulent duck
confit crepes, and a showy, three-tiered
seafood platter stocked with shellfish,
are also on offer. If dinner theater isn’t
your thing, the restaurant books different
musical acts on weekdays, including
local vocalists and jazz and blues
artists. Prices are steep, but the luxe
space—with moss-green velvet curtains,
rich rust-hued leathers chairs, and
photos of burlesque dancers—invites
lingering and looking and, of course,
entertainment is included. Now, on with
the show.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
 When he
came up with the d cor, interior designer
Patrick Sutton was inspired by
Paris’s famed Moulin Rouge cabaret,
Bob Fosse’s musical Cabaret, and SoHo’s
Balthazar brasserie. 
</p>
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<p>By Jane Marion</p>

<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
FREDERICK</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
228 N. Market St. 
</span>
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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center" > Sticky toffee cake; the lasagna;
an Old-Fashioned cocktail;
the dining room.</h5>
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<p>
<span class="firstcharacter">O</span>n an unseasonably warm December night, a
family of four stands outside Frederick’s
<a href="https://www.thacherandrye.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Thacher & Rye</a>, contemplating the posted
menu. As they peer into the peaceful dining
room whose simple tabletops are adorned with nothing
more than a candle and bud vases filled with dried rye,
they decide to go inside. “This place looks really nice,”
one of them says as they ascend the steps of the majestic
1890s brownstone. Prior to the pandemic, Thacher & Rye
was Bryan Voltaggio’s famed Volt, known for its 15-course
(or more), prix-fixe, modernist, molecular gastronomy
tasting menu, delivered to the white-linen tables by a fleet
of servers. Walk-ins would not have found a seat at the
table. But that was then, this is now. Voltaggio was forced
to shut down at the start of the pandemic. Since reopening,
he has rebranded the space and crafted a more casual
concept, one with fewer servers and more bar tables. “Volt
got the reputation of being for celebration-only tasting
menus,” says Voltaggio, who is also at the helm of the
Voltaggio Brothers Steak House at MGM National Harbor
with his sibling and fellow <i>Top Chef</i> contestant, Michael.
“I knew that if we were reopening, it had to be a different
experience. I also learned from Volt that three and a half
hours is too long a dining experience—we don’t have that
time anymore.” With Thacher (his first-born son) & Rye (a
nod to Maryland’s history as the maker of rye whiskey),
Voltaggio is hoping to draw passersby. “I’ve always
wanted to connect with as many diners as I can,” he says.
“That’s what I love about hospitality.” What hasn’t
changed is how the chef sources. “We didn’t change the
ethos of the restaurant,” says Voltaggio. “We’re trying to
keep the ingredients within the Chesapeake watershed.”
</p>
<p>
Even without all the formalities, the dishes—from
shrimp and grits to duck rillettes with buttermilk biscuits—are divine and prettily plated. And pasta, for the chef who is of Italian heritage, is still
very much a signature. The lasagna, for
instance, is 11 tissue-thin layers of handmade
egg noodles stuffed with a pepperoni
Bolognese and topped with ricotta fondue.
“Years ago, I made a Bolognese with
calamari,” says Voltaggio, explaining the
inspiration. “It was a seafood-based sauce
with a pepperoni sofrito. We’re just carrying
on with that flavor profile. Making Bolognese
is second nature to me.”
</p>
<div class="picWrap2">
<img decoding="async" class="singlePic" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/50BestRestaruants_ThackerRye_Bryan.jpg"/>
<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">Chef
Bryan Voltaggio at work.</h5>
</div>
<p>
After 25 years of standing over a stove,
much is second nature for the chef. During
the pandemic, when the restaurant
was closed, he turned to farming his own
nine-acre Frederick property. “I grew corn
and root crops and different types of lettuce
and had 100 tomato plants,” he says.
“I had so much stuff, I let my kids set up a
farm stand and sell it for extra cash, and I
gave away product to friends and chefs in
Frederick.” With the restaurant now open,
still in the heart of charming downtown
Frederick, Voltaggio is continuing to farm
on a smaller scale, using much of what he
grows for the menu, but he’s also on to his
next adventure. “I’m taking classes to get a
private pilot’s license,” he says. “I wanted
to do something that was out of left field
where I could just disconnect.”
</p>
<p>
Given his track record, he’ll be soaring
in no time.
</p>

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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.ouzobay.com/baltimore/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Ouzo Bay</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
HARBOR EAST
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
1000 Lancaster St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
With its neon and blue hues shimmering
from the street, this Hellenic hotspot
is a beacon in Harbor East. Inside, an
ocean of excellent chargrilled offerings
awaits, from fish flown in from around
the world (Norwegian langoustines,
Dover sole from Holland) to more composed
plates including a caper-crusted
swordfish and sea scallops with braised
lamb marmalade. Feel like sharing as
you move through your meal? Skip the
entrees and enjoy a round of seafood
mezedes and crudos or classic Greek
apps like the showstopping flaming saganki
or tender lamb meatballs tossed
in tomato sauce and showered with
feta. The vibe is ritzy, the cocktails are
refreshing, and the alfresco dining area
offers one of the best views of the Harbor.
When Ouzo opened 10 years ago,
it kicked off the nightlife scene in Baltimore’s
swankiest zip code. The party is
still going strong.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
In
2019, Ouzo Bay welcomed a sister spot
in Houston by the same name. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.getpapicuisine.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Papi Cuisine</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
RIVERSIDE
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
2 E. Wells St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
Since opening in its new location last
May, chef Alex Perez’s Afro-Caribbean-Latin-fusion restaurant has established
itself as one of the most fun
spots in the city. Everyone here—the
greeter out front, the bartenders, the
servers, and, most importantly, the
customers—always seems to have
a smile on their face. And why not?
Papi’s menu is playful and decadent.
The crab cake egg rolls are a legend
in the making. You can order honey-glazed
salmon or lobster with a crab
cake stuffed inside. Or maybe you
should have that lobster tail deepfried?
Mac and cheese is made with
four cheeses; it’s deliciously gooey,
and impossible to stop eating. Take
a sip of one of Papi’s cocktails, like
the Paradise, made with rum, mint,
pineapple syrup, and garnished with
pineapple, and you’ll feel like you’re
on vacation. Dinner at Papi Cuisine
might be the next best thing. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The Papi’s Pineapple rum
punch is served in a whole pineapple
and spouts dry ice.
</p>
<hr>
</div>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://peerces.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Peerce’s</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
PHOENIX
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
12460 Dulaney Valley Rd. 
</span> </h5>
<p>
Dining out is all about being cared
for at the family-owned Peerce’s.
Brothers (and co-owners) Keir and
Binda Singh treat you like kin, as they,
along with host-with-the-most Travis
Wright, warmly greet customers by
name at the door and make sure
all your needs are met. Every dish
on this menu highlighting modern
Punjabi fare is a stunner—close your
eyes, point to anything, and you’ll be
pleased. You can’t go wrong, from the
exquisite almond-crusted lamb chops
to the whole pan-fried Goa fish with
roasted garlic, tamarind, and scallions.
Expect to find New-American, Maryland-style spins on the menu, too, like
the seasonal soft-shell crabs, panfried
with coconut, rice, and toasted
mustard seeds, or the divine Kerala
crab cakes with cumin and mustard
seeds as a stand-in for Old Bay. If
you’re gluten-free or vegan, there
are myriad options, too. All of this
is against a backdrop of chocolateand-gold-accented dining rooms with
laser-cut lanterns gracing every table,
plus the most glamorous alfresco setting
around, and it’s no wonder this place became an instant sensation.  
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The historic 1930s property started
as a chicken stand known as Peerce’s
Corner.
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://petitlouis.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Petit Louis Bistro</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
ROLAND PARK
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
4800 Roland Ave. 

</span> </h5>
<p>
When longtime Petit Louis chef Chris
Scanga left Foreman Wolf’s French fare
institution to head up the kitchen at The
Milton Inn, and then senior sommelier Marc
Dettori announced his retirement, all we
could think was, “Mon dieu!” We worried
needlessly, as the reins were handed over
to executive chef Mario Cano Catalán, who
was previously at the helm of the restaurant
group’s now-closed Bar Vasquez, and
has slid seamlessly into the kitchen, quickly
mastering the menu of bistro classics (a
proper pâté, a mile-high quiche Lorraine, a
burnished whole chicken roasted in duck
fat). As always, maître d' Patrick Del Valle,
who hails from Lyon, France, gives the
place a proper French accent. While eating
inside the Belle Epoque-style dining room
is always a total treat, we also adore the
pandemic-proof tent that was erected for ample dining en plein air. Wherever you sit,
enjoy a glass (or bottle) of wine from the
extensive French wine list. While staff members
may come and go, our love for Louis
will last forever.  
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Petit
Louis is in the oldest strip mall in America,
dating back to 1897. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="http://preserve-eats.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Preserve</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
ANNAPOLIS
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
164 Main St.

</span> </h5>
<p>
Historic Annapolis boasts some of the
oldest restaurants in the state (Middleton
Tavern, founded in 1750, is one of the oldest
in the country), but this seven-year-old
relative newcomer, at least by Naptown
standards, is also one of the best. Owned
by husband-and-wife Jeremy and Michelle
Hoffman, the sophisticated spot on bustling
Main Street has a dedicated pickling and
preserving program. Elements of each show
up across the menu. Crisp cucumber pickles
appear alongside a phenomenal smoked
fish dip with house-made crackers and vinegary
red onions glisten atop the signature
crispy kale. But the practice of preservation,
which inspired the restaurant’s name,
is more than a clever concept. There’s also an emphasis on homespun comfort foods
such as fish and chips and chicken-stuffed
agnolotti. Of note, the service, sometimes
in short supply these days, is impressively
warm and welcoming. Preserve doesn’t
take reservations, so gear up for a wait
with a drink in hand, while you linger on
the sidewalk. It’s all part of the experience.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Co-owners Jeremy and
Michelle Hoffman met at the fabled Culinary
Institute of America. 
</p>

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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://theprimeribs.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">The Prime Rib</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
MT. VERNON
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
1101 N. Calvert St.
</span> </h5>
<p>
This venerable 57-year-old throwback is
all about ambiance—until you taste the
steak. Then it’s about ambiance and food.
From the moment you walk through the
door, you’re treated like royalty. The bar
is almost always full, so take a seat in the
dark dining room, filled with the sound of
jazz piano. Always start with an order of
the famous Greenberg potato skins and
don’t be shy about dunking them in the horseradish sauce. The menu includes the
requisite pork, chicken, fish, and shellfish
of a classic chophouse—much of which is
quite good—but it’s almost sacrilege to order
anything other than the prime rib. The
14-ounce signature cut is a beautiful piece
of meat, but the 30-ounce bone-in full cut
is otherworldly. We’re not sure even famed
competitive eater Joey Chestnut could
finish it. But we do love trying.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought:
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The restaurant’s 14-ounce cut of
prime rib, which now costs $46, once went
for $4.95. 
</p>
<hr>
</div>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.puerto511.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Puerto 511</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
DOWNTOWN
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
102 W. Clay St.

</span> </h5>
<p>
There were moments during the lockdown,
amid Baltimore City’s reluctance to reopen
restaurants, when chef Jose Victorio
Alarcon considered leaving the kitchen for
good. Thank goodness he prevailed, and his
cooking hasn’t missed a beat since Puerto
511’s return to seated dining service in
the summer of 2021. He continues to craft
stylish plates with flavors inspired by his
Peruvian homeland. If you have not yet
been, make it a point to experience the
reservations-only, prix fixe menu offered
every weekend. You’ll be rewarded with
a dinner that spotlights freshness, vibrant
citrus flavors, and thoughtful presentation.
A noteworthy bonus is that Puerto 511 is
BYOB, so pick up your favorite Malbec on
the way. Or bring along a batch cocktail—may we suggest a pisco sour—to kick off
the evening. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Alarcon and
his wife, Connie, also own Andina, a phenomenal
grab-and-go empanada spot, on
Lexington Street. 
</p>
<hr>
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<br/>
<h5>
YOU NEVER FORGET YOUR FIRST FINE-DINING EXPERIENCE.
</h5>

<p>By Jane Marion</p>

<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center">ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES ALBON</h5>
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<p>
<span class="firstcharacter">M</span>y earliest restaurant memory
takes me back to the sprawling
dining room of Manero’s Steak
House, an institution in Greenwich,
Connecticut, where I lived as a kid. In
the early ’70s, as our family of six piled into
a wood-paneled Country Squire, my parents
took the restaurant’s motto—“always
bring the children”—to heart. (One of their
other, albeit dated, mottos was, “Thru these
portals pass the most beautiful steaks and
women in the world.”) About once a month,
on a Saturday night, we gathered around
one of the wood tables at Manero’s. While
my sisters squirmed, I stared. The family-style
Gorgonzola salad was our standing appetizer
order—and it was legendary. One
server (we called them waiters back then)
carried the big wooden bowl and held it in
place, while another took tongs as big as
boat paddles and plated the greens, coated
in creamy dressing and topped with fried
onions. As we waited for our steaks to arrive,
I pinched pieces of warm garlic bread
from the complimentary basket and bit
into the gin-soaked onions my father
slipped me straight out of his martini. At
Manero’s, on your birthday, a quartet of
waiters brought out a cake and sang “Happy
Birthday” in staccato. And best of all, the
restaurant had a sign on the wall that said
if a baby was born in the restaurant, he or she would get free steaks for life. Though I
never saw it with my own eyes, I imagined
that a very pregnant woman or two must
have at least tried taking them up on that
offer. Along with the rest of us, celebrities
like Andy Rooney and Arnold Palmer would
line up for filet mignon dinners, including
an appetizer, coffee, and dessert, for $5.95.
(According to press reports, they sold some
1,000 steak dinners a night.) Inevitably,
between the salad and our steaks or scampi,
the chef, Nick Manero, would wander
around the room in his starched chef’s coat
and tall, trademark toque. I felt special
whenever he graced our table. In addition
to being a bit of a celebrity himself, I was
certain that he was a magician, because our
meal would always appear while he was
still standing at our table.
</p>
<p>
In 1980, long after we moved out of
state, Mr. Manero (never chef Manero)
passed away. His family carried on his legacy
for a little while longer, but after 62
years, the restaurant eventually ended its
run. It’s been 49 years or more since I ate
at Manero’s, and, yes, times have changed
(who serves garlic bread anymore?), but it
was never about the food. Manero’s is
where I first felt the thrill of what it meant
to eat in a restaurant, which felt distinctly
different from the meals, well-intentioned
as they were, that my mother served at
home. It set the standard. It’s where I
learned good table manners. It’s where I
developed a taste for Shirley Temples (and
eventually, martinis, thanks to those cocktail
onions). It’s where I was given agency
to make my own decisions about what was
for dinner (read: none of mom’s meatloaf).
And, best of all, it’s where I learned to love
the pomp and circumstance, the sheer fun
and fanfare that comes with a night out on
the town. Even then, I knew that we were
privy to something sophisticated and special—and lucky to tag along at a time when
kids mostly stayed home. I wasn’t born at
Manero’s, though that would have been
pretty prescient for a future food critic. But
eating there did mark the beginning of a
birth—it’s the place where my lifelong love
affair with restaurants started. And I knew
that even without free steaks for life, I’d
find my way back, if not there, then somewhere
just like it.
</p>

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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.tiopepe.us/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Restaurante Tio Pepe</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
MT. VERNON
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
10 E. Franklin St.

</span> </h5>
<p>
It would have been easy for Emiliano and
Miguel Sanz, distant cousins and longtime
co-owners of this 53-year-old Spanish subterranean
staple, to call it a career when
COVID-19 dealt its near deathblow to so
many restaurants. Lucky for us, they soldiered
on. When we returned for the first
time in two years, we were—as always—delighted by how little had changed.
Laughter echoed throughout the dining
rooms, some of it undoubtedly fueled by
the signature red sangria. We resisted the
urge to order the legendary paella and
instead tried the Pargo a la Vasca, aka red
snapper with clams, mussels, asparagus,
and boiled egg, and the Pollo a la Riojana—chicken saut ed in olive oil with peppers,
tomatoes, and mushrooms. Both were excellent
and had us vowing that it won’t be two years until we dine here again. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
During a busy week, the restaurant
sometimes serves more than 150
pitchers of sangria. 
</p>
<hr>
</div>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="http://royaltajmd.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Royal Taj</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
COLUMBIA
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
8335 Benson Dr.

</span> </h5>
<p>
This swanky Indian restaurant gets your
attention with its sumptuous décor—recessed
ceilings outlined in gold, a massive
crystal chandelier, marble fireplaces, and
floral-brocade chairs—but it’s the small
things that stick with you. Like the rice:
Our genial server dished out fluffy basmati,
then quickly disappeared, only to return
with another mound. (Our to-go boxes also
came equipped with more of the staple.)
But really, the niceties start with a basket
of complimentary papadum (thin, crackly
lentil bread), followed by an array of
expertly prepared traditional appetizers
and entrees. You can dabble in bites, like a
minced lamb samosa or a pile of rosemary
naan, even better when dunked into raita,
then saunter into main dishes, like a spicy
chicken vindaloo and luscious lamb korma
with a coconut-almond-cashew sauce.
Even on busy nights, the pace at this dining
spot is never rushed as you indulge.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
 Royal Taj’s teak furnishings
are custom-made and imported from
India. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.sottosoprainc.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Sotto Sopra</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
MT. VERNON
</span></h5>
<h5> <span class="clan thin uppers">
405 N. Charles St.

</span> </h5>
<p>
It’s hard to believe that this charming
Italian restaurant celebrated its 25th anniversary
last year. We admit that we
sometimes take it for granted, which is a
mistake we’re reminded of every time we
eat here. A meal starts with house-made
focaccia and premium olive oil that hints
at the simple, classic fare to follow. On a
recent outing, we devoured a bowl of light
and luscious gnocchi topped with Parmesan
and a naturally sweet tomato sauce.
A branzino filet was delicately prepared.
The crunch of the fish’s crispy skin combined
with the tender meat to make each
bite a treat. With stellar service, a wonderful
wine selection, and cooking that
never disappoints, we know we’ll be back
again.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Once a month,
the restaurant hosts an opera night with
live music and a five-course dinner for
$85 per person. 
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.tagliatarestaurant.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Tagliata</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
HARBOR EAST
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
1012 Fleet St.

</span> </h5>
<p>
There’s a reason why this Harbor East Italian
restaurant is one of the most besieged in Baltimore. With its velvet banquettes,
string-lit courtyard, and sophisticated piano
bar, the place is sexy as hell, but ambiance
can only go so far. What makes “Tag” so
terrific is easy to answer—the draw is the
cooking of its executive chef-partner, Julian
Marucci. For the past five years, day in and
out, Marucci has come up with devastatingly
delicious dishes, from seasonal plates, like a
late-summer smoked duck with plums, to the
restaurant’s superb selection of steaks and
chops—not to mention the very best examples
of Boot Country standards (don’t dismiss
the delish chicken Parm). Handcrafting pasta,
be it lobster ravioli or squid ink campenelle,
is Marucci’s first love, and to watch him as he
rolls, stretches, and spins various shapes is
like watching a professional athlete at work.
Of course, Tag is more than just Marucci;
bow-tied managing partner David Goodman
doubles as the consummate maître d', tending
to your every need, including helping
you navigate the 1,000-plus-label wine cellar.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The restaurant sells
35,000 meatballs a year. 
</p>
<hr>
</div>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://thamesstreetoysterhouse.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Thames Street
Oyster House</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
FELLS POINT
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
1728 Thames St.

</span> </h5>
<p>
This veteran fine-dining seafood spot is
nestled among the historic waterfront buildings
in Fells Point. At Thames Street, you’ll
find a kitchen absolutely dedicated to flavor
and freshness. Begin your experience with
the raw bar, where you’ll find a rotating
selection of the country’s finest shellfish,
including raw clams. The main menu features
succulent small plates, like a shrimp ceviche
that packs the zing of citrus and the heat of
Central American chiles, as well as creamy
clam chowder. The crab cake is 100-percent
Maryland blue crab and among the best
we’ve ever tasted, while plump gnocchi
finished in Madeira-lobster sauce provide a
decadent bed for the slow-roasted monkfish.
Drinks are sophisticated and the wine list is
thoughtful. Thames doesn’t take reservations
for parties over four and there’s rarely room
for walk-ins.  
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The raw bar
and cocktails are available between lunch
and dinner service.  
</p>
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<h5> <span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
TOWSON</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
1 Olympic Pl.
</span>
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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center" >Bartender Noah
Lorup; alfresco dining; Pork chop with blue crab
fried rice.</h5>
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<p>
<span class="firstcharacter">T</span>his <a href="https://perennialtowson.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">fine-dining newcomer</a>—the Atlas
Restaurant Group’s first foray into the suburbs—has given the sleepy county scene a
much-needed jolt. (Even in a pandemic, reservations
go well past 8 p.m. on a Saturday
night.) On any given evening, there’s live
music, a buzzy bar, diners dressed to the
nines, and endless orders of fried lobster
with honey butter and lavender salt flying
out of the kitchen. And for good reason.
Chef Jay Rohlfing, who was mentored at
Linwoods, has clearly mastered the art of
seasonal cooking, as displayed in a dish of
tuna crudo with watermelon and red chili on
a summer’s visit, or a bowl of pumpkin cider
soup with bourbon meringue crisps in early
winter. It also helps that the space, intimate
and chichi, with a spectacular wraparound
patio, is a perfect complement to the food.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p>
The name of the restaurant
was inspired by the chef’s own threeacre
garden in Hampstead, where he grows
scallions, strawberries, and squash.

</p>

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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://thetiltedrow.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">The Tilted Row</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
BOLTON HILL
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers" >
305 McMechen St.

</span> </h5>
<p>
Ziad Maalouf’s inviting eatery is the kind of
neighborhood bistro everyone wishes was
on the corner of their block. It has a little
something for everyone. Mediterranean offerings,
like the Moorish eggplant appetizer
and blackened Moroccan salmon entree, all
burst with complex flavors and authentic ity. Want American comfort food? Deviled
eggs, a pimento cheese-topped burger,
and mac and cheese, cooked so delicately
you can twirl the noodles and watch as
strings of hot cheese wrap around them,
will warm most souls. The vegetarian
wild mushroom polenta is as rich and
satisfying as any dish on the menu, which
includes steak frites and a pork chop. No
matter your taste, everyone will appreciate
the restaurant’s stellar service and
yearn to return, even if you don’t live in
the ’hood. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
A different
entree is featured as the Blue Plate special
on Tuesdays through Thursdays, dessert
included.  
</p>
<hr>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://www.truechesapeake.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">True Chesapeake
Oyster Co.</a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
HAMPDEN-WOODBERRY
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
3300 Clipper Mill Rd.

</span> </h5>
<p>
It doesn’t get more Chesapeake Bay-to-table
than this shellfish Shangri-La, which
serves oysters it raises on its own Southern Maryland aquafarm. The signature varietals—Skinny Dippers, Chunky Dunkers,
Huckleberries—vary in size and style but
all exude similar freshness. They’re incredible
raw and roasted with herb-Old Bay butter.
Clams, mussels, and shrimp are also on
offer, but chef Zack Mills shows his range
with non-seafood dishes, too. Chief among
them when we visited was the chickenfried
snakehead. An invasive species that
harms the local ecosystem, Mills has turned
a problem into an asset. Served with Swiss
chard, brown-butter grits, pickled hominy,
and a hot honey sauce, the dish is Southern
comfort food at its best. Meanwhile,
the star of the cast-iron-seared top sirloin
wasn’t the meat (which was excellent), but
the maitake mushrooms and peaches in an
apple butter marinade. With a top-notch
cocktail program and its beautiful environs,
True Chesapeake is a true gem.
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif; ">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
The bar top is made from real
oyster shells.  
</p>
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<h2 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;  padding-top:2rem;" >
<a href="https://vin909.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Vin 909 Winecaf&eacute;  </a>
</h2>
<h5>
<span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
ANNAPOLIS
</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
909 Bay Ridge Ave.

</span> </h5>
<p>
On most days, you can count on a line
forming outside this adorable, no-reservations
bungalow-turned-restaurant before
the doors open for dinner. It’s been that
way for a decade. Diners want first crack
at the prized seats, inside and out, to sample
the chef’s carefully curated California-Mediterranean-inspired menu. Highlights
include crisp brick-oven pizzas, like the
Spotted Pig with wild-boar meatballs and
soppressata, and shareable plates like a
cast-iron skirt steak bathed in a spicy Moroccan
sauce that warms from the inside
out. Of course, wine is a star, with offerings
for all, from $6 glasses ($22 bottles)
assuring imbibers that “value is not a
dirty word” to $12 glasses ($45 bottles)
for their “damn-the-economy, let’s-drink-wine”
mentality. We’ll drink to that. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p style="padding-bottom:2rem;">
Vin 909 sells more than 60
wines by the glass. 
</p>
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<h5><span class="clan" style="letter-spacing:2px;">
COLUMBIA</span> <span class="clan thin uppers">
8850 Columbia 100 Pkwy.
</span>
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<h5 class="clan captionPic text-center" >Calamari appetizer; owner George Aligeorgas; the fresh fish display.</h5>
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<p>
<span class="firstcharacter">H</span>oward Countians may know about <a href="https://www.xeniagreekcouzina.com/" class="restlink" target="_Blank">Xenia</a>,
but it’s time for the rest of the metropolitan
area to learn about this fine-dining stunner.
The restaurant, owned by George Aligeorgas,
will remind Baltimore visitors of Ouzo Bay
in Harbor East, of which Aligeorgas was a
founding partner. The décor is elegant, with
hand-blown glass fixtures, Aegean blue overtones,
and a display case showcasing whole
fish. Its menu focuses on Greek fare and
just-caught seafood. A popular appetizer, the
flaming cheese saganaki, sets the stage for
the rest of a meal, which can include stuffed
grape leaves and macaroni-beef pastitsio
and fabulous fish, which the kitchen grills,
debones, and presents at the table drizzled
with a lemon-infused sauce and capers.
Desserts like baklava are available, but
every table receives complimentary Greek
doughnuts, glistening with honey. Word’s
out. Make your reservations now. 
</p>
<h5 style="font-family: GabrielaStencil-Black,sans-serif;">
Food for Thought: 
</h5>
<p>Executive chef Akis Anagnostou,
39, started working in his father’s pastry
shop in Greece when he was 10. He uses
his family’s recipes at the restaurant for
dishes like moussaka and spanakopita.


</p>


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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/best-restaurants-baltimore-2022/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
			</item>
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		<title>Dining Awards 2021</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/dining-awards-2021/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Aaron Hope]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Mar 2021 15:22:13 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[COVID-19]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dining Awards]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pandemic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?post_type=article&#038;p=104192</guid>

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<span class="clan editors uppers">
<p style="font-size:1.75rem; padding-top:1rem; margin-bottom:0;">Edited by Jane Marion</p>
<p style="font-size:1.25rem; margin-bottom:0.25em;">Photography by Scott Suchman and spot illustrations by Christine Rösch</p>
<p>Written by Lauren Cohen, Jane Marion, and Mike Unger</p>
</span>


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<h6 class="thin tealtext uppers text-center">Food & Drink</h6>

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<h4 class="deck">
We celebrate the local dining scene and those who make it happen.
</h4>
<p class="byline">Edited by Jane Marion<br/>Photography by Scott Suchman and Spot Illustrations by Christine Rösch </br> Written by Lauren Cohen, Jane Marion, and Mike Unger</p>




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<p>
<span class="firstCharacter"><img decoding="async" STYLE="MAX-HEIGHT:200PX; width:auto;" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/DiningAwards_Trophy.jpg"/></span>
Every year around this time, for our Best Restaurants roundup, we ask ourselves why any one spot stands out. Is it the food, the décor, the service, the ambiance, or some combination that makes our hearts go pitter patter? But this past year, with the rise of COVID-19, all the rules have changed—and 2020 was a year like no other year we’ve covered. As restaurants have fallen on hard times, we’ve been stirred to celebrate the scene with our first-ever Baltimore Dining Awards. Given what sometimes seemed like insurmountable challenges, we see the hospitality industry anew. And we swear—once we’re all vaccinated—we’ll never again complain about loud music, slow service, or small portions. Starting March 16 of last year, due to COVID-19, Maryland restaurants were mandated to close for indoor service, and then, in the ensuing months, allowed to reopen with a Byzantine series of ever-changing dine-in guidelines and a second wave of crippling closures just before Christmas. All the while, there was a growing demand for takeout. In essence, restaurants had to fight for survival and were forced to find new ways of conducting business, whether doing carryout for the first time, converting to contactless service, or simplifying menus to pare down labor and food costs. Some made the decision to stay shuttered inside while ramping up outdoor dining and giving rise to al fresco Edens with shrubs and string lights. With their boundless creativity, restaurants have continued to inspire us—from elaborate tents and individually heated tables (La Cuchara, Orto) to
subscription services (Gracefully Coffee, Larder) to restaurateurs who shelled out beaucoup bucks to add virus-killing lights and new HVAC systems for increased air exchange&nbsp;(Linwoods,&nbsp;Citron).
</p>
<div class="QuoteWrap2">
<h4 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px; text-transform: none; line-height:3rem; border-bottom:10px solid black;">
Above all, we salute every server, every bartender and baker,
every chef and sous, every dishwasher, every person making the magic happen... 

</h4>

</div>
<p>
In this reimagined landscape, for restaurants and patrons alike, just showing up—while
wearing a mask—was half the battle. In fact, that restaurants continued to operate at all
sometimes seemed like a small miracle. So this year, when we asked ourselves, “What stood
out on the scene?” we had newfound perspective. More than ever, we appreciate the people
and the places that have made the best of it in the hardest of times, from the servers who
did their jobs even at risk to themselves to the restaurateurs who kept their businesses
afloat by dipping into their personal savings and the neighborhood joints that kept us
anchored when the whole world seemed unmoored. Every day we marveled at the chefs
who devised dishes sturdy enough to withstand carryout, bartenders bagging craft cocktails
to go, and managers working overtime to keep us safe by taking our temperatures before
taking our orders. Above all, we salute every server, every bartender and baker, every chef and sous, every dishwasher, every person making the magic happen so we can still enjoy restaurant-quality food, whether dining in at a distance, getting it to-go, or simply serving as a source for pantry staples. From behind your masks—and ours—we see you (and, oh, how much we missed you when you were closed). And to out-of-work hospitality
folks, we say keep the faith. We will see you on the other side. In a year when
everyone burned brightly, we give props to our entire culinary community,
while also singling out a few stars. We also bow our heads to those we’ve lost.
</p>
<p>
You have our deepest gratitude.
</p>


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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
CHARITABLE GIVING
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Atlas Restaurant Group
</h2>

<p>
In the past year, as many of us have fallen on the toughest of times, Atlas Restaurant Group came to the rescue and showed us that charity does, in fact, begin at home. Despite the fact that their 14 Baltimore-based properties were closed off and on (and off) throughout the pandemic, Charm City’s largest restaurant group focused on those hit hardest. Whether doing weekly Grocery Giveaways (from produce to pantry goods and even rolls of toilet paper) for out-of-work hospitality workers in partnership with purveyors such as Saval Foodservice and Coastal Sunbelt Produce or providing countless hot meals for the homeless at St. Vincent de Paul’s in Fells Point, Atlas owners Alex and Eric Smith
and their team dug deep and gave back to the city they love. The acts of generosity also included giving away thousands of pounds of Atlas Farms produce to various charities
(Westminster Food Bank, Sharp Leadenhall Baptist Church) when their properties were shut down due to COVID-19. In all, Atlas has donated tens of thousands of meals and grocery essentials to those in need. Thanks to them, many Baltimoreans have been able to rest a little easier at night.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
SURVIVOR
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
SoBo Cafe
</h2>

<p>
We’ve always seen Federal Hill staple SoBo Cafe as a survivor, but after a car plowed into the business’ outdoor dining area on October 18 in a hit-and-run, the cozy cafe on Cross Street known for its brunches and burgers really showed its mettle, handling it with
trademark gumption and grace. Even as the wreckage was being cleared, SoBo remained open to serve the community with carryout orders and outdoor seating. And we were touched to see that, in true Baltimore fashion, there was an outpouring from other area businesses
that quickly mobilized to set up a GoFundMe page and helped with the cleanup to get the restaurant back up and running. Sometimes you don’t know what you’ve got until it’s (almost) gone—we appreciate SoBo Cafe more than ever. Clearly, they’re here for the long haul.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
BAR SNACKS
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Dutch Courage
</h2>

<p>
After a few visits in the past year (both pre-pandemic and for carryout), we can safely say that the cocktails aren’t the only stars of the show at this Old Goucher watering
hole. As much as we love the drinks—many of which make use of the bar’s 100-bottle gin collection—props are in order for chef Carl Zimmerman’s snack offerings. Aside from his roster of larger plates and rotating “Smokin’ Sunday Supper” menus that highlight a different smoked meat each week, the chef turns out a number of shareable snacks that are ideal for lining your stomach in between rounds. Some of our favorites include fried Japanese peanuts, a build-your-own charcuterie “Happy Box” with soft cow’s milk cheese and aged prosciutto, and a house-made fermented onion dip—served with salt-and-pepper kettle chips—that puts the stuff in jars to shame.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
BARTENDERS OF THE YEAR
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Cane Collective
</h2>

<p>
When the COVID crisis hit, veteran bartenders Aaron Joseph and Ezra Allen launched this colorful line of bottled mixers with the hope that they would not only bring the experience of craft bartending directly to people’s homes, but also act as a fundraiser to support industry workers in need. Sure enough, the innovative concept turned into a fast favorite as the pandemic left cocktail enthusiasts longing for a stool at their favorite haunts. Since first dropping at local stores in March, the flavorful concoctions have become a staple on home bar carts all over town—satisfying cravings for both classics
(the Southside mix fuses lemon, mint, and ginger) and seasonal sips (the Mixed Berry Punch with lemon juice, mint, One Straw Farm berries, and edible glitter—ooh la la). Each blend suggests spirit mixers on the label but can also be enjoyed as a non-alcoholic mocktail on its own.
</p>

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<p class="clan captionPic">Chili dog on brioche bun and handcut fries with truffle aioli; cocktails to-go; the Daedalian margarita cocktail.</p>
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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
PIVOT
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
The Bluebird Cocktail Room’s “Until Conditions Improve”
</h2>
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<span class="firstcharacter mohr-black">F</span>
<p>
<span class="mohr-black">rom the moment</span> this cheekily named pop-up sprang up on the Hampden sidewalk outside the swanky Bluebird Cocktail Room, we loved its let’s-make-the-best-of-it attitude. Diners eating outside (or getting items to-go) at Until Conditions Improve place their orders and pay at a hostess stand out front, then are seated at one of the appropriately spaced tables (a health consideration we didn’t see at all the al fresco spots last fall). The smartly pared-down menu features burgers (a 21-day dry-aged Roseda ribeye is something special), gourmet hot dogs, a smattering of sides (here’s to the truffle aioli fries),
and, of course, cocktails (including boozy shakes and spiked cups of cocoa). Until conditions improve, we’re more than happy to while away the hours here.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
BRAND EXPANSION
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Chaps Pit Beef
</h2>

<p>
We admit that we were leery when this East Baltimore mainstay began expanding
for fear that the brand would somehow feel diminished. If Chaps isn’t the king
of our hometown style of barbecue, it’s at least the most visible member of the
royal family. We will always love the rugged original location, a tiny outpost in the
parking lot of a strip club on Route 40, but we have to admit it’s nice to have other
locations around the region at which to pick up heaping pit beef sandwiches. One of the newest is in a Glen Burnie strip mall on Richie Highway. Located next to a Shoe City, the setting is predictably blander than the original, but the food—our favorite is The Gus, stuffed with corned beef, ham, and turkey—is as regal as ever.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
RESTAURANT MERCH
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none; padding-bottom:1rem;">
Woodberry Kitchen’s Annie Howe T-shirts
</h2>

<p>
Just when we thought there was no reason to get out of our jammies, Annie Howe’s artfully designed tees—emblazoned with laser-cut farm animals—helped us stay in style while helping to support both the local artist and this James Beard Award-winning restaurant.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
CHESAPEAKE FARE
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
True Chesapeake Oyster Co.
</h2>

<p>
Lately, it seems, you can’t toss an oyster shell without hitting a Chesapeake Bay-focused
restaurant. But True Chesapeake Oyster Co., Maryland’s first oyster-farm-turned-restaurant, is, as the name implies, the real deal. Executive chef Zack Mills has put together an innovative Mid-Atlantic menu—whether you eat outside or take out—that tells the narrative of our local waters. Think: subtly salty Skinny Dippers and Huckleberry oysters plucked from St. Jerome Creek in St. Mary’s County, blue crab shaped into cakes or tossed into mac and cheese, and local rockfish bathed in a tomatillo-herb broth. During the pandemic, with food-supply chains upended, many restaurants have turned to local sourcing, but this Whitehall Mill restaurant—open for just a little more than a year (though closed for several months this winter)—has stayed way ahead of the curve in educating its guests about the importance of sustainable seafood and eating what’s in our own backyard (and waterways).
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
COCKTAILS TO-GO
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Sugarvale
</h2>

<p>
As sad as it is to see that Mt. Vernon’s Sugarvale—the dimly lit, subterranean spot
typically buzzing on any given night—has gone dark for now, we’re grateful that its
team is bottling cocktails and selling them at Dooby’s, the bar’s sister spot just around
the corner. Though nothing compares to having a drink handed to you from across a bar (especially at a dreamy spot like Sugarvale), with the right glass, garnish, and proper serving instructions, these to-go cocktails come pretty darn close to mimicking that feeling. Whether you’re a whiskey person, more of a mezcal fan, or simply miss the bar’s classic Negroni, the curated list, which offers eight or 16-ounce pours, has something to
please all palates. Standout sips include the whiskey and rum-forward “Rye Tai,” accented by pineapple, lemon, and bitters, as well as the fan-favorite “Amaro Daiquiri” with sweet Averna amaro, lime, and cane syrup.
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<p class="clan captionPic">The beet and walnuts appetizer; Binda and Keir Singh share a laugh; the elegant dining room; a samosa.</p>
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NEW RESTAURANT
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Peerce’s
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<span class="firstcharacter mohr-black">H</span>
<p>
<span class="mohr-black">ow low can</span> you go? Temperature wise, that is. That’s a question all of us who love dining out began asking ourselves as fall turned to winter and eating out—as in outside—took on
a chilling new meaning. In October, November, and God help us, even the first part of December, we donned our wool socks, squeezed into our winter coats, and sat outside at restaurants around the region to dodge the virus, nourish our souls, and support places
we love. And there’s not a new restaurant we love more than Peerce’s, the longtime Phoenix institution that was purchased and reimagined by brothers Keir and Binda Singh. “It’s such a great location,” Keir says. “It’s only five miles and six minutes from Towson. It just
feels like you’re way out in the country. It’s really not that far, although driving
through the reservoir and the trees and nature, you feel like you’ve been in the car forever.” The brothers, former owners of the Ambassador Dining Room and current purveyors of the fantastic Ananda in Howard County, have brought their Indian fine-dining concept north, and the results are stirring. Traditional dishes like chicken vindaloo and palak
paneer shine alongside sophisticated interpretations like the halibut, a beautiful piece of fish topped with a subtle masala sauce and accompanied by vegetable biryani. On a recent visit, the best dish we had arrived first: the crab kochi appetizer, a sort of cold crab cake made with chunks of lump meat, avocado, onion, edamame, lime, chilies, and puffed lentils. Like everything at Peerce’s, it’s a wonderful amalgam of flavors, and diners have taken notice. 
</p>
<div class="QuoteWrap2">
<h4 class="mohr-black uppers" style="letter-spacing:6px; line-height:3rem; border-bottom:10px solid black;">The brothers, former owners of the Ambassador, brought their Indian fine-dining concept north, and the results are&nbsp;stirring.</h4>
</div>
<p>“Knock on wood, at this point business couldn’t be better,” Keir says three days after Christmas. Perhaps more amazing than the food itself was the fact that we so thoroughly enjoyed it on a 40-degree evening outside. Peerce’s patio is the most elegant one we’ve experienced during the pandemic. With heaters everywhere, an
outdoor fireplace, fountains to numb the noise from the road, plants that somehow still flourish, and the signature service for which the Singhs are known, the drive to
Peerce’s is definitely worth it, no matter how frosty the weather.
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BEST CHEF
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Catina Smith
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<span class="firstcharacter mohr-black">O</span>
<p>
<span class="mohr-black">n a snowy</span> December morning, chef Catina Smith preps a private birthday dinner for a popular Charm City food blogger. She boils down dates with a savory spice blend to make a sauce for her fried shishito pepper appetizer, which will be followed by shrimp toast,
rainbow trout, and vanilla cake. It’s become a familiar routine for Smith, who has ramped up private cheffing since she was laid off from her Copper Kitchen catering gig when the pandemic hit. “It was not easy,” says Smith, who was pregnant with her third child at the time, “but I’m a hustler.”
</p>
<p>
She shifted to virtual cooking classes, while finding ways to support Just Call Me Chef—a group she founded in 2018 to empower female chefs of color. “We have a group chat where we could vent,” Smith says, “but being able to raise money for some of my members was a proud
moment.” Perhaps her most fulfilling moment in the past year (aside from giving birth to her son in July and a recent shoutout from <i>The New York Times</i>) was securing a space for Our Time, a commercial kitchen concept that Smith has been working on with Wilde Thyme food truck owner Kiah Gibian. Slated to open in Old Goucher this fall, the kitchen will
offer by-the-hour rentals and childcare to “womxn-owned” food startups. “Typically
you have to sign on to use a commercial kitchen for a couple of months,” Smith says, “but sometimes small businesses don’t have the comfort of knowing we’re even going to make it that long. Being that catalyst for businesses to blossom will be really amazing for the city.”
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CULINARY COLLABORATION
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Larder and Fadensonnen
</h2>

<p>
It’s been said that good neighbors build good fences, but that couldn’t be further
from the truth when it comes to the open-spaced culinary cooperation between Larder and Fadensonnen, both situated inside the Socles Complex in Old Goucher. Helena del Pesco’s Larder, with its gut-friendly fare, and Fadensonnen, Lane Harlan’s sake/biergarten, share an outdoor courtyard, but also a similar spirit and synergy. During the pandemic, both businesses have fostered a deep sense of community. In the warmer months, when the courtyard was humming, patrons ordered Tempeh burgers and grilled cheese and kimchi from the one carryout window at Larder, and glasses, or bottles, of beer and sake at Fadensonnen. Fadensonnen allowed patrons to bring their own snacks while eating outside, but only on days when Larder was closed, while the BYOB Larder encouraged patrons to get drinks at Fadensonnen. The arrangement has been a win-win for both businesses.
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DELECTABLE DELIVERY
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<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Chesapeake Farm to Table
</h2>

<p>
Last March and April, when food sourcing was an issue and many items were in short supply, the online marketplace Chesapeake Farm to Table came through, delivering the best in area produce, meat, cheese, and eggs directly to our front doors—and thus forever spoiling
us from sourcing anywhere else. There were, of course, Fuji apples, Sungold cherry tomatoes, scallions, and beautiful bouquets of flowers for sale. But we particularly
loved the more unusual items—Rainbow chard, pink Italian eggplant, Pioppino mushrooms, sunchokes—that sometimes made us feel like students in Intro to Agriculture. Whatever we had delivered, the sustainably sourced, highquality goods, from some 30 or so local growers, never disappointed. And it felt good to directly support Maryland’s abundance of small farms at a time when we felt powerless to help.
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DISH OF THE YEAR
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<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Peking Duck from NiHao
</h2>

<p>
Even at an establishment that was named one of the best new restaurants in the country by <i>Esquire</i> magazine, one dish has taken locals by storm. Sure, the menu at NiHao is loaded with delicious contemporary takes on Chinese cuisine, but at the top of that menu, both literally and figuratively, sits the Peking duck. Co-owner Lydia Chang, the daughter of famous Washington-area chef Peter Chang, brought her father’s recipe to Canton when she opened NiHao last August. The birds go through a five-day preparation cycle during which
they are dried; marinated with star anise, orange juice, cinnamon, clove, and ginger
(among other things); baked; and then roasted. NiHao uses top-of-the-line takeout
containers to ensure that the duck’s skin stays crispy, while its meat remains juicy. A word to the wise: These ducks are so sought after, NiHao often sells out. If you want one, get your order in early.
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CRAB CREATION
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<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none; padding-bottom:1rem;">
The Colossal Crabcake Egg Roll at Papi Cuisine Restaurant
</h2>


<p>
The hottest trend, and rightfully so, is this new riff on the traditional egg roll. Stuffed with lump crab and mixed with cheese and a drizzle of aioli, this Instagram darling is photogenic, yes, but also downright delicious.
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ENDURING CLASSIC
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
The Helmand
</h2>

<p>
In trying times, our tastebuds crave the comforting flavors of yesteryear. In Baltimore,
that often means The Helmand, the beloved Mt. Vernon restaurant that has been serving its authentic Afghan food for more than a quarter of a century. While so many longtime spots struggle due to COVID-19, we are ever-grateful that The Helmand is still here for us. It
took us a moment to adjust to opening takeout containers of sabzy challow (sautéed spinach with beef), aushak (ravioli filled with leeks served on yogurt and topped with ground beef
and mint), and, of course, the signature kaddo borwani (pan-fried and baked baby pumpkin seasoned with sugar and served on yogurt garlic sauce) at home rather than eating them in the restaurant’s classy yet comfortable dining room. But the food was prepared just as
perfectly as it always is in the restaurant. Just goes to show: You can take the food out of the restaurant, but you can’t take the restaurant out of the food.
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VIRTUAL MARKETPLACE
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<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
La Cuchara Market
</h2>

<p>
At the height of the pandemic, when it seemed scary to venture out, resources were scarce, and lines were long, some local restaurants transformed into ad-hoc grocery stores, offering pantry staples alongside regular menu items. But La Cuchara in Hampden-Woodberry took it to the next level. The Basque Country-focused spot stepped in with their contactless online marketplace, offering a wealth of peerless products to help us excel at
home cooking. From week to week, it’s been hard to choose between swordfish and chorizo sausage, local produce (chanterelles, sweet peppers), and a variety of Spanish cheeses (La Peral for life!), plus a lovely selection of Spanish wines and to-go cocktails like white sangria and a well-balanced gin and tonic. And when we don’t want to DIY it, we’re always
happy to indulge ourselves with chef Ben Lefenfeld’s ever-changing lineup of prepared foods, from coconut curry to falafel, that span the globe. No matter what we brought home, it always felt like a gift to ourselves.
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INNOVATORS
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Le Comptoir du Vin
</h2>

<p>
Not long after becoming the toast of the town, with Best New Restaurant imprimaturs from <i>Bon Appétit</i> and <i>Esquire</i>, the pandemic struck, bringing Comptoir owners Rosemary Liss and Will Mester back to reality and in need of a rethinking of their business model. In early spring of last year, within a week of closing their restaurant, Liss and Mester, who are partners in both business and life, were early adopters of “the pivot.” Without missing a beat, they reopened as a natural-wine bottle shop and updated their menu to handle online orders, before eventually adding carryout from a miniscule menu. A few months later, by the end of summer, they pivoted once again, and reopened as a specialty shop modeled after European market-cafes, with a chalkboard menu of signature items (lentils with labneh, chicken liver pâté) and curated pantry items. The restaurateurs have served as a model for other spots to follow suit and are living proof of the old axiom that necessity is the mother of invention.
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RESTAURANT REVIVAL
</h5>
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Foreman Wolf Saves The Milton Inn
</h2>

<p>
We love a happy ending, so when we learned that the Foreman Wolf Restaurant group, along with Petit Louis chef (and now business partner) Chris Scanga, was taking over Spark’s historic Milton Inn, which closed last year due to COVID-19, we couldn’t have been more
thrilled. We can’t wait to check it out when it opens this spring.
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<p class="clan captionPic">Monarque's glamorous dining room; the Tomahawk ribeye steak; the Grand Plateau seafood tower; the Ma Chéri gin cocktail; a Monarquette gets ready for showtime.</p>
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AMBIANCE
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Monarque
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<span class="firstcharacter mohr-black">A</span>
<p>
<span class="mohr-black">t a time</span> when we’ve never felt more of a need to be transported, to go
somewhere, the Atlas Restaurant Group has come through with Monarque, a French steakhouse-cum-cabaret that sells the steak—and the sizzle. (Where else in the city can
you find contortionists, sword swallowers, and The Monarquettes dancers putting on the ritz as you sip from a flute of Champagne?) Conceived by the visionary Patrick Sutton, the come-hither Harbor East spot, which shares a courtyard with The Elk Room, Tagliata, and Italian Disco, is an escapist fantasy. Which was exactly the point. “My whole goal in designing any restaurant is to transport someone. Here, I’m transporting you to a scene in the movie Cabaret or to The Moulin Rouge,” says Sutton, who also counts New York City’s famed brasserie Balthazar as a source of inspiration. “I’m taking you to a fanciful recollection of Paris in the ’40s. It’s all about romance and feeling like you’re escaping.”
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<h4 class="mohr-black uppers" style="letter-spacing:6px; line-height:3rem; border-bottom:10px solid black;">Atlas restaurant group’s monarque is a french steakhouse-cum-cabaret that sells the steak—and the sizzle.</h4>
</div>
<p>
To that end, Sutton’s space is a luxe
study in texture and tone with nubby
velvets, mohair (yes, mohair) curtains,
brass fixtures and fittings, and myriad
mirrored surfaces—all against the backdrop
of rust-hued leathers, and dark
moss-hued walls adorned with blackand-
white burlesque photography. The
whole mood is rich and romantic with a
soupçon of mystery, the perfect milieu
for a place that offers a menu of mouthwatering
Francophile favorites from
filet mignon to foie gras. At Monarque,
life is, indeed, a cabaret.
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<p class="clan captionPic">Roasted pumpkin tofu; the head-on shrimp are sautéed; the garlic shrimp laing; chef Rey Eugenio; the vegetable lumpia with spicy garlic vinegar dipping sauce.</p>
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FOOD HALL STALL
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Heritage Kitchen
</h2>

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<span class="firstcharacter mohr-black">I</span>
<p>
<span class="mohr-black">n the months</span> since Heritage Kitchen opened inside Hampden’s Whitehall Food Market, fans have fallen for Filipino-born chef Rey Eugenio’s signature chicken adobo, coconut crab soup, shrimp and pork belly laing, arroz caldo (chicken and tofu over ginger-scented rice), and other dishes that pay homage to his upbringing. “If you ask anyone who grew
up in a Filipino household, they will tell you food and family are very important,” says Rey, who cut his teeth in prestigious Florida hotel kitchens before coming to Baltimore to help reopen Roy’s in Harbor East after a storm—where he later met his wife, Julie—in 2003. “When I was going to culinary school, my dad actually challenged me and said, ‘If you want to open a Filipino restaurant, you gotta learn your mom’s recipes.’ What I’m doing is
applying what I’ve learned throughout my career in the food I grew up eating.”
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<div class="QuoteWrap2">
<h4 class="mohr-black uppers" style="letter-spacing:6px; line-height:3rem; border-bottom:10px solid black;">“My dad challenged me and said, ‘If you want to open a Filipino restaurant, you gotta learn your mom’s recipes.’”</h4>
</div>
<p>But the restaurant’s fitting name wasn’t only inspired by Rey’s culture. He and Julie hope that, eventually, they can host collaborations where area chefs join Rey behind the line to share their own traditions. It’s one of many big dreams—along with having an actual grand opening celebration with their fellow merchants—that the owners have for Heritage post-pandemic. “With COVID, it feels like we’re gradually transitioning to full operation,” Julie says. “Rey does a great job at making carryout look beautiful, but I’m
really looking forward to the day when he can plate up a dish that’s not in a to-go box. I think that’s every food community’s dream—to see people enjoying their meals together again.”
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RESTAURANT CHEERLEADER
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Sergio Vitale
</h2>

<p>
Throughout the pandemic, many hospitality vets have shown their fighting spirit by standing up for what they believe. But no one has been more outspoken than Sergio Vitale, as he fights for the survival of not only his own 23-year-old beloved Aldo’s Ristorante
Italiano in Little Italy, but all of the small businesses in Charm City. With his
trademark sense of humor and booming laugh, “Serge” is larger than life in Baltimore—and seemingly everywhere with his bullhorn and his influence. In May, the Italian Stallion led a coalition calling on former Mayor Bernard “C.” Jack Young to offer an outdoor food court in Little Italy when city restaurants were closed for indoor dining. In December, he recruited restaurateurs to sign a petition to get Congress to pass The Restaurants Act to establish a $120 billion relief fund (with personal pleas to Senator Ben Cardin) and spoke straight to the camera on WMAR-TV to ask new Mayor Brandon M. Scott to reconsider re-opening restaurants after a second shutdown. As if that’s not enough, his social media posts have encouraged Baltimore denizens to wear masks and tip servers generously. Few have fought as tirelessly to keep restaurants alive. Yo, Serge, keep up the good fight!
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INGENUITY
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Dylan’s Oyster Cellar and Foraged
</h2>

<p>
Baltimore wouldn’t be Baltimore without these dining darlings that are emblematic of
oh-so-many small businesses in city. When the chips are down, against all odds, these
singularly spirited spots (owned by Irene and Dylan Salmon and Chris Amendola, respectively) have shown true tenacity. That means serving top-notch nibbles without
missing a beat, turning their shops into sidewalk cafes, and finding new ways to adapt,
even at great personal cost (the restaurant owners have dipped heavily into their savings
accounts and Amendola provided family meals to any unemployed hospitality workers when his restaurant was open). At Foraged, owner/chef Amendola offered creative DIY baskets for customers to take home. At Dylan’s, the novel to-go menu included bags of Buck a Shuck oysters, a new crabcake platter, and even branded T-shirts in Orioles orange. We’re duly impressed with both of these restaurants for having the smarts and spunk to find new ways to keep the lights on. There must be something in the water on Hampden’s Chestnut Street, where they’re both based.
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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
FINGER LICKIN’ FARE
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none; padding-bottom:1rem;">
Authentic Wings at iBar
</h2>

<p>
Baltimore meets Buffalo when it comes to the rightfully named “authentic” wings at iBar in
Charles Village. If you’re feeling bold, go for the Devil’s Blood hot sauce or downgrade the heat quotient and go for medium or mild. There’s no such thing as a bad decision here.
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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
NEW BAKERY
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Café Dear Leon
</h2>

<p>
Let’s get this out of the way: The line is worth it. Like clockwork, every weekend
morning since it opened in August, throngs have gathered to wait outside this tiny shop
on O’Donnell Square for so much more than just a cup of coffee. The bread, pastries, and
sandwiches offered here are what keep the masses coming back. Case in point is the
Tamago Sando, a Japanese-style egg salad made on milk bread that’s unlike any other
we’ve tried. On weekends, the café serves Roman-style pizza using dough it makes
in-house. Smoked salmon is delivered in such creative ways here you’ll never settle
for it on a plain old bagel again. The menu frequently changes, but on our most recent
visit in December, we ate our fish on focaccia topped with thinly sliced cucumber and
onion and a plump, sliced hard-boiled egg. Dear God, it was so delightful that we almost
forgot about the pandemic.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
OUTDOOR DINING
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Rye Street Tavern
</h2>

<p>
One silver lining of the pandemic is that many restaurants have upped their al fresco
game. Nowhere is this truer than at Andrew Carmellini’s Rye Street Tavern in Port Covington, where glorious tents take center stage. Eating outside can be overrated at
times, from battling the bugs to warding off the wind and other elements—but not
here. Against the backdrop of the peaceful Patapsco, Rye Street has erected two massive
structures with faux hardwood flooring, fresh flowers, and even sparkling chandeliers.
Of course, the Chesapeake-inspired food courtesy of chef Brian Plante, from the
wood-grilled Choptank oysters to blackened catfish with red pea hoppin’ John, is as terrific as ever. And, in season, to add to the fun, there’s cornhole, live music, and Adirondack chairs for enjoying the splendor in the grass. Throughout the past year, eating here has been a true escape and has even been known to have us asking, “What pandemic?”
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
PIZZA PALACE
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Hersh’s
</h2>

<p>
The impossibly thin crusts at this beloved Federal Hill spot are so perfect when they
emerge from the oven, they can’t possibly maintain their flawlessness when they’re
boxed to-go. That’s a compliment, not a complaint. Hersh’s even seems to acknowledge
this reality by posting reheating instructions on its website. It recommends preheating
your oven to 500 degrees then placing your pie on a pizza stone. That sounded a bit too
involved for us, so we simply threw the pizza directly on the oven rack for five minutes
at 450 degrees. We’re here to report that both our prosciutto and arugula with mozzarella,
Parmigiano, and olive oil and our cacio e pepe, a white pizza with four cheeses and
plenty of pepper, emerged as piping hot, crispy, and delicious as if we were eating
them there. If we’re ever stranded on a desert island—or quarantining in our homes, as
it were—this is the food we want with us.
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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
POP-UP
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Big Softy
</h2>

<p>
For any soft-shell skeptics out there, take one bite into the stacked sammies from this
roving pop-up and you’ll be a believer in no time. Craig Falk, who some might know
best as the owner and executive chef of The Lunchbox Lady, has been serving his soft–shell crabs between perfectly charred slices of sourdough, with thick-cut tomatoes,
lettuce, and a drizzle of zesty aioli, since launching the side project in 2017. Aside
from the odes to our state’s seafood obsession—other Big Softy favorites include succulent shrimp salad, crab dip, and shrimp and oyster po’ boys—Falk likes to get creative
and whip up a few curveball dishes at each location. (Who could forget greatest hits like the uni and crab toast on brioche with radish flowers at R. House?) Suffice it to say, we’ll be patiently awaiting the seasonal pop-up’s return this summer.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
COMMUNITY KITCHEN
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Alkimiah
</h2>

<p>
It’s always been apparent that the teams at Venezuelan restaurant Alma Cocina Latina
and culinary co-op Mera Kitchen Collective have hearts of gold (as evidenced by their
shared passion for uniting the community through food). So, it’s only fitting that the
name of their joint meal distribution initiative translates to “alchemy.” In keeping with
the spirit of transformation, the chefs—who now share a home in the former Pen & Quill
space in Station North—take sustainable ingredients and turn them into healthy
dishes to be donated to neighbors in need. Individual gifts and grants, as well as a
partnership with José Andrés’ World Central Kitchen, have allowed Alkimiah to serve
more than 95,000 meals to those who are food insecure, but the team isn’t stopping
there. The long-term goal is to work with policy makers to ensure that affordable, nutritious food is accessible to all, even after the pandemic has passed.
</p>

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UP-AND-COMER
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
LemonTopia
</h2>

<p>
Don’t let the name fool you. This sweet popup from 13-year-old entrepreneur Jamaria
Crump is not your average lemonade stand. If you’ve ever spotted the yellow-themed booth at events around town, you’ve likely noticed that Crump’s impressive menu spans well beyond the typical plastic pitcher. Frequent trips to local farmers markets connected the fledgling foodie to mentors like Dominic Nell of City Weeds and Dorian Brown of Neopol Smokery, whose products helped spark the inspiration. Since launching her business in 2016 (at the age of 9!), Crump has put her own spin on the summery sip with flavors like black cherry and a “Unicorn” blend mixed with Nerds and Pop Rocks. She also highlights baked goods like vegan doughnuts, pineapple upsidedown cake, and, of course, the requisite
lemon cookies and bars. She hopes to take the business global one day, but, for now,
we’re happy to support one of the food scene’s most promising young visionaries right in our own backyard.
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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
FAST CASUAL
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none; padding-bottom:1rem;">
The “Fast” Food Market at The Food Market
</h2>

<p>
We love the new “fast food”—it’s ready within 10 minutes after you order—concept at this Hampden haunt. The well-priced menu is small but mighty, with a cheesesteak sub,
two types of burgers, a chicken sandwich, old-fashioned fountain sodas, and outrageously good crinkle fries.
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RESTAURANT SAVE
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Joe Squared
</h2>

<p>
It’s difficult to imagine Station North without
Joe Squared—the artsy pizza joint that has
quelled carb cravings with its hearty risottos,
fried ravioli, and namesake square pies
for the past 15 years. And thanks to a newly
adopted worker-owned cooperative model,
we don’t have to. After taking a nine-month
hiatus due to the impacts of the pandemic,
the neighborhood institution made a celebrated
comeback in December under its new
co-op system, which allows all workers to
have a stake in the business and play a role
in decision making. It’s a community-minded
approach that has proven to be successful
with local pioneers such as Red Emma’s,
Thread Coffee, and Taharka Brothers, and
we’re hopeful that it will secure many more
art shows, live music performances, pints of
local beer, and signature square slices at Joe
Squared for years to come.
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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
RISING STAR
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Amanda Mack
</h2>

<p>
We wish we could bottle the feeling of seeing Amanda Mack’s pecan pumpkin spice
chocolate chip cookies grace the pages of <i>Bon Appétit’s</i> Thanksgiving issue. Not only
was it a crowning achievement for the owner of Whitehall Food Market’s Crust by Mack,
but it brought smiles to all of the people whose days she has brightened this past
year with her scratch-made biscuits, cookies, brownies, and claim-to-fame hand pies. Despite opening in the summer of COVID—just days after demonstrations broke out in the wake of George’s Floyd’s death—Mack has continued to strike gold with her
rotating menu and unwavering commitment to the community, whether that means donating portions of her tips to budding entrepreneurs or supporting Black-led organizations.
She even landed a segment on Good Morning America to discuss her passion for improving food access in low-income neighborhoods, and we’re sure that the national praise is
going to keep on coming. We’re lucky to say she belongs to Baltimore.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
ROLE MODELS
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Foreman Wolf
</h2>

<p>
At a time when it seemed as though eating out might be hazardous to our health, chef Cindy Wolf and her business partner Tony Foreman led the way, proceeding with unerring caution
and care. They remained closed for eight weeks, as they hatched a plan to reopen safely for staff and guests alike. When they finally did open their doors, they stayed ahead
of the curve, setting the standard for the Baltimore area, enforcing policies
and practices from the start: taking temperatures, requiring contact-tracing forms, and distancing tables even more than the requisite six feet apart. What’s more, they innovated
with novel solutions that never detracted from the diner’s experience. Chi-chi Charleston was just as special as a sidewalk spot. Petit Louis transformed itself into a lovely <i>en plein air</i> boîte in Roland Park. And neighboring Johnny’s offered a gourmetto-go indoor Italian market in the colder months and a Sunday market in the warmer ones, even featuring
cello music by Louis server Thillman Benham and crafts made by Foreman Wolf employees. Though we would have forgiven them for being less than perfect in the midst of a pandemic, they showed everyone else how it’s done.
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NEW BREAD SHOP
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Motzi Bread
</h2>

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<span class="firstcharacter mohr-black">I</span>
<p>
<span class="mohr-black">n the early</span> days of the pandemic, baking bread competed with watching Tiger King for the title of “most popular quarantine activity.” Yup, 2020 reached that level of bizarre. Maya Muñoz and Russell Trimmer, owners of Motzi Bread, pictured, understand why. “Baking requires a certain rhythm and patience that is not quite the same in cooking,” says Trimmer, the former lead baker for Woodberry Kitchen. “Particularly with sourdough, you’re working with a living being. There’s that element of mystery that adds a certain satisfaction to it.” The married couple, who live above the storefront, started their
Harwood bakery in 2019 as a subscription and online ordering service, then opened a
brick-and-mortar store on Guilford Avenue in May of last year. There’s usually a line
outside on Thursdays and Saturdays—the only days it’s open for business. 
</p>
<div class="QuoteWrap2">
<h4 class="mohr-black uppers" style="letter-spacing:6px; line-height:3rem; border-bottom:10px solid black;">Social responsibility is a hallmark at Motzi Bread, which takes both walk-in and online orders and operates on a pay-what-you-can model.</h4>
</div>
<p>
Just one customer is allowed inside (where the smells are otherworldly) at a time, but
the ryes, focaccias, chocolate chip cookies, and pastries are so delectable that
no one seems to mind waiting outside. Social responsibility is a hallmark at
Motzi Bread, which takes both walk-in and online orders and operates on a
pay-what-you-can model. The benne rye is particularly popular. “Benne” is the
Bantu word for sesame, and the seeds were brought to the United States by
enslaved West Africans. To honor that history, 50 cents of each loaf is donated
to Black Yield Institute. “We wanted to ensure that anyone who comes in the
store doesn’t have that barrier of price point,” says Muñoz, a former teacher.
“We take in more in tips than we give discounts. For every four to five dollars,
we make another pay-it-forward loan that goes to folks distributing food right
now.” Hard not to feel nourished by that.
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<p class="clan captionPic">Seared scallops with squash purée; chef Mark Levy fires
up a dish; flowers add to the ambiance; the Oriole cocktail.</p>
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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
RESTAURANT REBRAND
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Magdalena, a Maryland Bistro
</h2>

</div>

<span class="firstcharacter mohr-black">S</span>
<p>
<span class="mohr-black">et inside</span> Mt. Vernon’s Ivy Hotel, Magdalena has always been a little jewel of a spot, with its fine-dining fare, elegant décor, and impeccable service. But, alas, all good things must come to an end, as every restaurant has a natural evolution. After shuttering seven months last year, it used that time to come up with a concept that felt more in touch with the times. The result is Magdalena, a Maryland Bistro. Much of what we loved about the
former spot remains: the flawless service, the delectable food, a stunning, albeit now more modern, setting. But the new menu has more of a local comfort-food focus, with dishes
like a proper Maryland crabcake, Southern stuffed ham, and a knockout chicken pot pie. Have no fear: British-born Mark Levy hasn’t lost his U.K. accent—the fish and chips is a surefire star, for example. And if your buds are bougie, you can still top almost any menu item with truffles or foie gras.
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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
TAKEOUT
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Ekiben
</h2>

<p>
Takeout from Ekiben was already a thing before getting it to-go became a trend. This
adorable Asian-fusion spot founded by University of Maryland Baltimore County grads Steve Chu, Ephrem Abebe, and Nick Yesupriya (who has since left the business) is best known for its signature Taiwanese fried chicken, “Neighborhood Bird” (served spicy or regular, on a steamed bun or as part of a rice bowl), as well as the spicy peanut-flavored Tofu Brah and terrific tempura broccoli. It's no surprise that Ekiben—which has been recognized by <i>Esquire</i>, <i>Vogue</i>, and <i>Travel & Leisure</i>—has a strong to-go game given that it launched as a street fare start-up at the Fells Point Farmers Market in 2014. Even though it has grown into a bona-fide brick-and-mortar hotspot—with two locations, in Fells and Hampden—it
has stayed true to its grab-and-go roots: The staff always gets the order right, the
sturdy cardboard boxes stay sealed, and the rugged, albeit mostly fried, food stands up
to the drive home. While most spots have converted to carryout of late, Ekiben makes it look easy, which we know it’s not.
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TO-GO FAMILY MEAL
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Linwoods
</h2>

<p>
For us, the pleasure of eating at Linwoods has always been surveying the scene as a who’s who of Baltimore County strides through the door, while we sip on our pineapple martinis and watch co-owner/chef Linwood Dame inspect every plate down to the last detail before it leaves the kitchen. But COVID-19 changed all that, and getting our food to-go has given us a renewed sense of gratitude for just how great this county staple is and reminded us why it endures. Even when the going has gotten rough, quality has never been sacrificed.
A la carte menu items—the broiled crabcake, the steak salad—are as good as ever, but the new family meals, like the lasagna with pesto, veal and beef, or the herbes de Provence-crusted salmon in red-wine reduction, really wowed. While Linwoods is a fine-dining price point, the family meal offers great bang for the buck and gave us a night off when our kitchens made us feel like we were the ones running a restaurant.
</p>

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INDUSTRY BOOSTER
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Martha Lucius
</h2>

<p>
Restaurant strategist (and former cafe owner) Martha Lucius understands that, even in the best of times, running a restaurant is no easy feat. But lately, it’s next to impossible.
While Lucius is generally hired by local restaurants to address best practices, healthy profits, and the importance of a work-life balance, in this past year, her tireless
support has been a boon to the culinary community. Lucius’ hospitality blog is
filled with recipes, inspiring photographs, and common sense tips and tricks and
reflections (“Your guests will notice and appreciate your business in a new way,” she
writes to restaurateurs. “We are becoming a new version of our former selves.”) In addition, her society and culture podcast <i>Holy Guacamole!</i>, co-hosted by fellow consultant Dave Seel (who also deserves a huge huzzah for his tireless efforts to support the industry), covers all the basics that restaurants need to know right now, like the nuts and bolts of hiring. And for regular foodie folks, there are plenty of informative interviews with people like Kris Fulton at Sophomore Coffee and Meghan and Shane Carpenter of Hex Ferments. In these dark times, Lucius has been a guiding light.
</p>

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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
DINING DESTINATION
</h5>
<h2 class="plateau-five" style="margin-top:0; text-transform:none;">
Thacher & Rye
</h2>

<p>
When we learned that Bryan Voltaggio’s prix-fixe Volt was morphing into a more
casual concept due to the novel coronavirus, we were concerned that the specialness
of the original spot would be lost. Fortunately, the newly named Thacher (an homage to the chef’s son) & Rye (a nod to Maryland’s long distilling tradition) has lost none of the old razzle dazzle. From inside an elegant Frederick brownstone, the <i>Top Chef</i> runner-up is still wowing his legions of fans with his cooking prowess and molecular gastronomic frosts and foams. Though the chef’s tasting table is on hiatus for now, the central dining room is still small enough to watch the gifted Voltaggio and his crew at work. Yes, it’s a bit of a schlep from Baltimore via I-70 to get here, but this is destination dining at its best—and you won’t be sorry you made the trip once you’ve been seated and served.
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<h5 class="mohr-black" style="letter-spacing:6px;">
R.I.P.
</h5>

<p>
With this sad growing roll call of restaurants, from fine-dining favorites to neighborhood darlings, we commemorate just some of the many spots that closed for good—most due to COVID-19—this past year.
</p>

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Ahh Coffee • The Alexander Brown Restaurant • Baby’s On Fire (Fells Point) • Cafe Latte da • Chez Hugo Bistro • CinéBistro • City Café • CJ’s Crabhouse and Grill • Clyde’s of Columbia • Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar • Gordon Biersch Brewery • Grand Central • Greenmount Coffee Lab • Greene Turtle (Fells Point) • Growler USA • Houlihan’s (Elkridge) • James Joyce Irish Pub & Restaurant • Joanne’s Grill • Lew Gambino’s • Lobo • Lyfe Café • Luna Del Sea • Maisy’s • Man vs. Pho • Mike’s Pizza House • Jaxon Edwin Social House • The New Wyman Park Restaurant • On the Border • Osteria Da Amedeo • Peko-Peko Ramen • Pen & Quill • R&R Taqueria (Elkridge) • Razorback’s Raw
Bar & Grill • Roy’s • Ruby Tuesday (Columbia) • Ryleigh’s Oyster (Federal Hill) • The Soundry • Sofi’s Crepes Belvedere • Szechuan House • Sunset Restaurant • The Sweet Shoppe
• The Urban Oyster (Locust Point) • Vito’s Pizza on Hooks Lane • Zoës Kitchen (Foundry Row) • Zü Coffee
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		<title>Best Restaurants Readers&#8217; Poll</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/best-restaurants-readers-poll-1/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Mike Smith]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 03 Jun 2019 14:42:38 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Best Restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Best Restaurants Readers' Poll]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
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			<p>Recently, we asked our readers: what are the best places to eat in Baltimore? Here are the results of our 2016 Readers&#8217; Poll. To see our editors&#8217; list of the 50 Best Restaurants in Baltimore, pick up a copy of our March issue, available on newsstands now. <a href="http://www.baltimoremagazine.net/2015/2/20/best-restaurants-readers-poll-2015">Our 2015 Readers&#8217; Poll results are available here.</a></p>
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			<h3>Best New Spot</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://almacocinalatina.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Alma Cocina Latina</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: La Cuchara, Clavel, Smoke</p>
<h3>Best Casual Dining</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://mission-bbq.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Misson BBQ</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Miss Shirley&#8217;s Café, By The Docks</p>
<h3>Best Fine Dining</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://www.charlestonrestaurant.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charleston</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: The Prime Rib, Woodberry Kitchen</p>
<h3>Best Al Fresco</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://www.witandwisdombaltimore.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Wit &#038; Wisdom</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Smoke, SoBo Café</p>
<h3>Best Bar Scene</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://www.bookmakersbaltimore.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Bookmakers Cocktail Club</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Wit &#038; Wisdom, Brewer&#8217;s Art</p>
<h3>Best Happy Hour<br />
</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://www.rasushi.com/md-baltimore/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">RA Sushi</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Alma Cocina Latina, Ouzo Bay</p>
<h3>Best for Special Occassion<br />
</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://www.theprimerib.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Prime Rib</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Charleston, Woodberry Kitchen</p>

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			<h3>Best Chef<br />
</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: Cindy Wolf of <a href="http://www.charlestonrestaurant.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Charleston</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Josh White of Smoke, Masood Masoodi of Da Mimmos</p>
<h3>Best Crabhouse<br />
</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://www.conradscrabs.com/home/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Conrad&#8217;s</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Costas Inn, LP Steamers</p>
<h3>Best for Visitors<br />
</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://www.thamesstreetoysterhouse.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Thames Street Oyster House</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Woodberry Kitchen, Da Mimmo</p>
<h3>Best Family Friendly<br />
</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="https://www.missshirleys.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Miss Shirley’s Café</a><a href="https://www.missshirleys.com/"></a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Friendly Farm, Silver Queen</p>
<h3>Best Romantic<br />
</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://www.theprimerib.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">The Prime Rib</a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: Charleston, Petit Louis</p>
<h3>Best Restaurant<br />
</h3>
<p><strong><em>Winner</em></strong>: <a href="http://almacocinalatina.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Alma Cocina Latina</a><a href="http://almacocinalatina.com/"></a><br /><strong><em>Runners-up</em></strong>: The Prime Rib, Miss Shirley’s Café</p>

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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/best-restaurants-readers-poll-1/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Best Restaurants in Baltimore</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/best-restaurants-baltimore/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Aaron Hope]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Mar 2019 08:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Annapolis]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Baltimore]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Best Restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chefs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dinner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ellicott city]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Towson]]></category>
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<span class="clan editors uppers"><p style="font-size:1.25rem;"><strong>Edited by Jane Marion</strong> <br/>Photography by Scott Suchman</p><p>Written with Lauren Cohen, John Farlow, Henry Hong, 
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<h6 class="thin tealtext uppers text-center">Food & Drink</h6>
<h1 class="title">Best Restaurants in Baltimore</h1>
<h4 class="deck">
As the dining scene sizzles, our picks for the top tables in town.
</h4>
<p class="byline">By Jane Marion. <br/> Photography by Scott Suchman. Written with Lauren Cohen, John Farlow, Henry Hong, 
Jess Mayhugh, Mike Unger, and Lydia Woolever.</p>
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<span class="firstcharacter" style="font-family:gabriela stencil, serif;">A</span><b>After what can be described as the salad days</b> of Baltimore's culinary expansion in the past several years, the upscale dining scene's bubble has finally burst. Last year sounded the death knell for far too many greats—Fork & Wrench, Jack's Bistro, Modern Cook Shop, Parts & Labor (sniff, sniff), Salt Tavern, Wit & Wisdom—so let us pause for a moment of silence to honor those we’ve lost. 
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<p>
      But just as restaurants continue to close, those that remain are at the top of their game. Whether these establishments have stood the test of time and trends (happy 50-plus to Restaurante Tio Pepe and The Prime Rib!) or survived fire and flood (Peter’s Inn and La Cuchara, respectively), we’re dubbing 2019 the year of “survival of the restaurant fittest.”
</p>
<p>
In the fly-by-night, blink-and-you-missed-it gastronomic world these days, we also salute those Charm City restaurants that have weathered the ups and downs, like our cover model, Cinghiale, a Harbor East institution that continues to delight night after night, despite being in the midst of a massive construction zone, as well as some stiff new competition, or the newly rebranded Gertrude’s Chesapeake Kitchen, where executive chef Doug Wetzel, a triathlete who almost died of severe heatstroke while competing in 2015, represents the ultimate comeback story. 
</p>
<p>
But mere endurance isn’t enough. The restaurants that persist have one thing in common at the core. They connect us, trigger a memory, leave us with a sense of longing, remind us of our childhoods—or our travels—offer us something new or daring that teaches us or deepens us in some way. (After some mushrooms at Foraged, you’ll never take a walk in the woods in quite the same way again.) These are the restaurants that have fed us well, for sure. But they’ve done more than that: They’ve moved us in some inexpressible way and, if we’ve looked up between bites to really look—and listen—they’ve told us a story. 
</p>
<p>
The restaurants on this list—hailing from still-trendy Hampden to family-friendly Columbia to the up-and-coming Downtown district and historic Annapolis—have done just that. To prove our point, we take you behind the scenes at four special spots: two old-timers that have enjoyed recent reincarnations and two promising newcomers that have quickly made their marks while feeling like they’ve been here all along. In this issue, we honor the 50 spots that are not only surviving but thriving, making Baltimore a delicious place to eat—and live. 
</p>


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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/1157-bar-kitchen" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">1157 Bar + Kitchen</h3>
</a>
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Locust Point</span> / <span class="unit">1157 Haubert St.</span> </h5>
<p>
Loyalists were crestfallen when Jason Ambrose shuttered Salt Tavern, his Butchers Hill brainchild, last summer. Luckily, the chef’s small-but-mighty mainstay in Locust Point is still going strong. It’s a favorite of neighborhood locals and Under Armour employees, but gastronauts also flock from far and wide to get their hands on the sophisticated snacks paired with a well-curated drinks list. Worldly flavors shine through in shareable plates ranging from curried Brussels sprouts and beer-steamed mussels to wild boar ravioli and the signature sweet-and-spicy Korean fried chicken wings. If you’re going the solo route, there are sizeable sandwiches (we savored every bite of the short rib panini with aged cheddar) and rotating entrees like a flavorful seared strip steak with truffle butter. It’s an intimate hideaway with only 30 seats, but the flavors are bold enough to rival any fine-dining den. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/alma-cocina-latina" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Alma Cocina Latina</h3>
</a>
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Canton</span> / <span class="unit">2400 Boston St.</span> </h5>
<p>
Since opening in 2015, this Latin oasis has transformed the fast-casual wasteland of Canton Can Company into a culinary destination. As bossa nova drifts from the stereo, the bar staff shakes tequila and citrus with vim and vigor, and lush greenery casts an alluring spell, Alma (which means to “feed one’s soul”) lives up to its promise. Follow our lead with a round of house-made tepaches for the table and then split a smattering of artful small plates, stuffed arepas, and entrees with unusual ingredients such as pomegranate syrup, tamarind mayo, and cilantro dust, all made with panache by Venezuelan chef Enrique Limardo. The crispy polenta cake with grilled fennel and confit beets on a recent trip was especially unique. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/the-ambassador-dining-room" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Ambassador Dining Room</h3>
</a>
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Tuscany-Canterbury</span> / <span class="unit">3811 Canterbury Rd.</span> </h5>
<p>
Certain restaurants just seem <i>lived</i> in—you can feel the joy of past celebrations and promise of a memorable evening to come. Old-world Indian gem Ambassador Dining Room, open since 1997 in a North Baltimore apartment building, fits that bill. The famed indoor/outdoor seating is still as charming as ever, with grand corner fireplaces and a gorgeous garden view. Ambassador’s Northern Indian standards like chicken tikka masala and grilled lamb chops are so divine that they tend to be our default order. But on one outing, we decided to go off script with a dish of Chicken Madras, which was bathed in a fierce and herbal curry sauce of green chiles subdued by creamy coconut milk and served with a side of saag, broccoli sabzi, and basmati rice. On top of that, we even skipped the naan for papadum wafers. Lesson learned: There’s no such thing as a bad bite here. 

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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/ananda" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Ananda</h3>
</a>
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Fulton</span> / <span class="unit">7421 Maple Lawn Blvd., Fulton.</span> </h5>
<p>
Trekking to this pillar of Indian fare, brought to you by the aforementioned Ambassador team, is like taking a micro-vacation. Your travels will be rewarded by a cheerful greeting, exotic flavors, and luxurious digs. In warm weather, breezes drift across the pretty porch; in winter, cozy fireplaces enhance the feeling of comfort and coziness. And then there’s the food. Not feeling adventurous? Enjoy the pulled Berkshire pork, a cumin and cardamom-spiked riff on pit barbeque, or relax into the tangy familiarity of their chicken tikka masala. Ready to dig deeper? Go for the Goa Fish, pan-fried and served whole and crispy, finished with roasted garlic and tamarind. Classic cocktails are expertly prepared, and there’s a wine list that is tailored to the food—a rare occurrence in global cuisine. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/azumi" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Azumi</h3>
</a>
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Harbor East</span> / <span class="unit">725 Aliceanna St.</span> </h5>
<p>
The staff’s 2018 trip to Tokyo and Kyoto has livened up the already robust menu at this Japanese jewel that can best be described as the Far East meets Harbor East. With chef Andy Gaynor at the helm, Azumi is making an even bigger splash these days with the addition of a robatayaki grill, where items such as Pacific prawns and Maine scallops get the barbecue treatment. As for sushi, so many spots pimp their rolls with unnecessary ingredients, but a simple nigiri dinner—an exquisite assortment of fluke, Japanese snapper, and bluefin tuna—lets the fish, most of which gets sourced from Japan’s famed Tsukiji seafood market, speak for itself. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/bar-vasquez" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Bar Vasquez</h3>
</a> 
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Harbor East</span> / <span class="unit">1425 Aliceanna St. </span> </h5>
<p>
Situated between the ever-growing restaurant scenes in Harbor East and Fells Point, Tony Foreman and Cindy Wolf’s Argentine steakhouse can get lost in the shuffle. Overlook it at your own peril. Executive chef Mario Cano Catalán churns out dishes that burst with South American flair, like poached and seared octopus and a tender Wagyu steak served with as good a chimichurri as one can hope to find north of the equator. With a bar, a lounge, and a large dining room that, despite its density, never gets overwhelmingly loud, the food is as pleasurable as the atmosphere. Service is stellar—on a recent trip, our server overheard our plan to split a few dishes, which miraculously emerged from the kitchen on two plates, at no extra charge. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/chez-hugo" target="_blank">
<h2 class="text-center unit">Chez Hugo Bistro</h2>
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<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">DOWNTOWN</span> / <span class="unit">206 E. Redwood St.</span> </h5>
<p class="text-center">
<span class="clan editors uppers">By Lauren Cohen</span>
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<p class="clan captionVideo">chef-owner STEVE MONNIER PREPS FOR SERVICE.</p>
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In the basement prep kitchen at Chez Hugo, chef Steve Monnier is running plastic bags of brown-butter roasted pumpkin through a vacuum sealer. It’s late afternoon on a Thursday, which means that he’s preparing to serve a multi-course tasting menu alongside the restaurant’s regular roster of French bistro fare. His plan is to create a pumpkin syrup to use with habanada pepper ice cream for one of the dessert courses. “The pastry is very important,” he says in a thick accent that reveals his upbringing in Reims, a city in the Champagne region of France. “It’s the last thing people will remember.” 
</p>
<p>
Tasting menus are somewhat of a specialty for Monnier, who previously owned the <i>prix-fixe</i>-focused Arômes in Hampden. At Hugo, a polished sequel inside the historic downtown Merchant’s Club, he’s focused on more familiar fare, while still employing French techniques. It’s evident, though, that the experimental menus—which he offers only on Wednesday and Thursday nights—are what keep him ignited. 
</p>
<p>
At 6 p.m., maître d' Marquette Shaw calls down to the prep space to alert the team that the first table has arrived. Three cooks, led by chef de cuisine Jeff Schultz, take their positions in the open kitchen, whose <i>pièce de résistance</i> is a flickering hearth where most of the grilling and smoking is done. Hanging above it is a string of drying celeriac strands that will later be used in a bacon-infused “tagliatelle” topped with white truffles.  
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<p>
Monnier takes his post and begins assembling a carrot tartare with black radish and Champagne vinegar that he carefully wraps in sorrel leaves. In the meantime, the rest of the team begins cooking proteins for the bistro’s signature <i>boeuf bourguignon</i> and <i>cassoulet toulousain</i>. Though Monnier didn’t have time to print the tasting menu for service coordinator Ashley Hanrahan on this night, she’s accustomed to his style. “I’ve worked a lot of dinners with him,” she says. “But there will always be a surprise. He’ll use a different sauce or something that I would never see coming.’” 
</p>
<p>
As he places a quenelle of sunchoke hummus with roasted pumpkin seeds atop a pair of French porcelain plates, a special visitor steals the chef’s attention. It’s his five-year-old son, the restaurant’s namesake, Hugo. 
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<p class="clan captionVideo">BANQUETTE IN DINING ROOM at Chez Hugo Bistro.</p>
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<p>
“It’s time to get to work man,” jokes general manager Christopher Scott, as he crouches down to give Hugo a hug. The wide-eyed boy high-fives all of the chefs across the line before suiting up in a blue-and-white apron that Monnier has to tie around his waist twice. He hangs around the kitchen briefly before retreating to the dining room, where he waits patiently for his order: a medium-rare burger with American cheese.
</p>
<p>
Hugo’s presence brings out the true essence of this restaurant. Though it has only been open for a year, the staff has come to rely on one another like family. Lined up above the range are a collection of magnets that the chefs have all brought back as souvenirs for one another, from places as far as California and Peru.
</p>
<p>
Several hours later, the chefs assemble a foie gras-filled “Snickers” bar as the final dish of the tasting menu. Though Monnier and his team will do it all again the following evening, it never gets mundane. “At the end of the day, it’s a bistro,” he says. “We’re very casual. We just try to do better every day and not take ourselves too seriously.” 
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<h3 class="text-center unit">Bygone</h3>
</a> 
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Harbor East</span> / <span class="unit">400 International Dr.</span> </h5>
<p>
“Have you been to Bygone?” asks the top-hatted elevator operator as you ascend to this swanky rooftop restaurant inside the Four Seasons Hotel. Whether you’re a first- timer or a veteran, as you step out onto the tile floor and walk past an arrangement of fresh flowers—and feathers—you’ll gasp at a view that has never made Baltimore look grander. And while the panorama is the draw, the menu, rooted in early 20th-century classic cuisine, has plenty to sate, from delicate fish dishes (branzino with fregola and clams) to substantial steaks (with a side of cheesy dauphinoise potatoes) and dishes such as lobster Newburg, crab Louie, and a Baked Alaska you haven’t dined on for at least a half century. If you’re looking to celebrate a big birthday, this is the place to do it. (Wallet warning: check your credit card balance before you go.) Pro tip: Ask for Table 61; it’s the best seat in the house. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/charleston" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Charleston</h3>
</a>
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Harbor East</span> / <span class="unit">1000 Lancaster St.</span> </h5>
<p>
From the pleated curtains cocooning diners in the lap of luxury to the silk textiles on the walls to the rose-gold cocktail pick spearing olives in a martini, this posh dining room sets the stage for exquisitely prepared French fare under the aegis of James Beard-nominated chef Cindy Wolf. Whatever is on the oft-changing menu—be it Scottish salmon with shallots and red-wine reduction, beef tenderloin with fried green tomatoes, or wild Burgundy snails with puff pastry tart—all ingredients are impeccably sourced, and Wolf honors them with her flawless execution. The stellar wine list offers some of the best bottles of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and other great grape-growing regions. Even the best restaurants can have an off night, but this landmark is “on” all the time, so whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or not, eating here is </i>always</i> special. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/cinghiale" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Cinghiale</h3>
</a>
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Harbor East</span> / <span class="unit">822 Lancaster St.</span> </h5>
<p>
Named for Italy’s native wild boar, Foreman Wolf’s tribute to <i>la cucina Italiana</i> operates on a winning combination of quality ingredients, excellent service, and inviting ambience. Bring an appetite, because you’ll be tempted by a cornucopia of cured meats, house-made pastas of every shape and stripe, and alluring mains. Indulge in oxtail tossed with tagliatelle, duck breast finished with cherry reduction, or calamari flecked with caramelized garlic and chili. Wine is as important to Italian culture as food, and here Cinghiale also excels, with a list that’s a treasure trove to even the most diehard devotee of Bacchus. Consider mixing dessert and coffee in the form of their affogato, a heavenly marriage of espresso, hazelnut gelato, and mascarpone cream that’s a favorite of co-owner Tony Foreman. 
</p>

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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/citron-baltimore" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Citron</h3>
</a>
<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Pikesville</span> / <span class="unit">2605 Quarry Lake Dr.</span> </h5>
<p>
A stylish bar, intimate dining rooms, seasonal <i>al fresco</i> service, and a waterfront view? Nope, not a hot new harbor concept, but Citron, nestled on the rim of Quarry Lake. Think New American cuisine built on a French foundation and dusted with Asian notes, and you’ll understand the menu. At the bar, you’ll find some of the cleanest sushi flavors in the area, along with pub staples like crab cakes. The full dinner menu offers Chilean sea bass seared to perfection and accented by scallion-chili sauce, while luscious veal cheeks cosseted in miso cream are flanked by morsels of Maine lobster. Desserts are decadently high quality. Oh, and Howard Stern had brunch here a few months back, though what he ate is still a secret. 
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<p class="clan captionVideo">BEEF TENDERLOIN with HOUSE-MADE STEAK SAUCE AND fingerling potatoes; A SIDE OF ONION RINGs; the wedge salad; a server FOLDS LINENS aT cunningham’s.</p>
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/cunninghams" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Cunningham’s</h3>
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<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Towson</span> / <span class="unit">1 Olympic Pl.</span> </h5>
<p>
The pitch-perfect balance of modern and rustic never ceases to amaze us at this lively Towson spot. The dining room dazzles with dangling crystal, dim lighting, and plush seating, while the menu offers countryside cuisine sourced directly from the restaurant’s Cockeysville farm. Scroll through the iPad list of worldly wines before choosing from wood-fired pizzas, pristine pastas, and farm-to-fork meats like a plump pork chop with sweet apple butter. On a winter’s visit, a spot-on recommendation from our server was the royal sea bass in a tomato stew with chorizo and littleneck clams. Hunks of crusty sourdough from the restaurant’s in-house bakery came in handy for lapping up the sweet sauce. If you happen to save room for dessert, a shareable sundae with caramel popcorn is an enticing sendoff. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/clavel" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Clavel</h3>
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<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Remington</span> / <span class="unit">225 W. 23rd St.</span> </h5>
<p>
For any first-timers out there, Clavel comes with a caveat: From the street, it looks like a hole-in-the-wall, but once inside, you’ll understand the hype. With its authentic Sinaloan fare (tostadas, tacos, tortas), the best margaritas in the city, and a newly expanded menu and adjacent dining room that includes a dedicated mezcal tasting bar, you’ll feel the magic right away. When co-owners Lane Harlan and Carlos Raba opened in a section of the city not known to many almost four years ago, they took a risk. Now, with a line out the door that begins at 5 p.m. (and a recent James Beard nom to boot), Clavel is proof that if you build a terrific taqueria, they will come. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/dylans-oyster-cellar" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Dylan’s Oyster Cellar</h3>
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<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Hampden</span> / <span class="unit">3601 Chestnut Ave. </span> </h5>
<p>
It’s been two years since owner Dylan Salmon's Chesapeake-inspired pop-up in Mt. Vernon transformed into this Hampden hangout lauded by the likes of <i>Garden & Gun</i> and <i>Eater</i>—and it still lives up to the hype. Dylan’s remains a go-to for local beers, nautical-themed cocktails, and oysters sourced from the region and beyond. (There’s even a cheat sheet for bivalve beginners.) But the allure spans well beyond the bar. The menu is full of well-prepared nods to seafood shack standards, including anchovy toast, coddies, a fried catfish sandwich, and the beautifully butterflied rainbow trout swimming in brown butter. A team of passionate shuckers and servers solidify Dylan’s reputation as being one of the most approachable spots in town. 
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<h3 class="text-center unit">The Food Market</h3>
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<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Hampden</span> / <span class="unit">1017 W. 36th St.</span> </h5>
<p>
Farmhouse wooden floors and metal fixtures are all the rage these days, and usually foretell wood-fired pizzas and pasture-raised burgers. That juicy burger can be had, but there is much more on offer at Chad Gauss' old faithful: mostly comfort food with adventurous twists. Lamb Two Ways arrives as a half rack of ribs plus succulently braised shoulder paired with spaetzle and roasted veggies. The shrimp dinner strikes a Cajun chord, borrowing spice from a generous serving of andouille sausage and couched in grits. We also appreciate smaller plates such as Beets by Chad—roasted beets tossed with pear, orange, feta, and mint named for the animated chef-owner. Desserts are satisfying, the beer list is deep, and the cocktails are inventive. 
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<a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/gnocco" target="_blank">
<h3 class="text-center unit">Gnochetto</h3>
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<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Highlandtown</span> / <span class="unit">3734 Fleet St. </span> </h5>
<p>
This Highlandtown haven may have changed its name from Gnocco to Gnocchetto last summer (it was getting confused with a New York City restaurant with the same moniker), but it’s far from having an identity crisis. Chef Brian Lavin and general manager Sam White continue to showcase creative Mediterranean dishes inspired by their college travels throughout Spain, Italy, and Southern France. Stellar antipasti like expertly grilled Spanish octopus with crispy potatoes and burrata with serrano ham and a sweet date purée—paired with a plate of house-made pasta—makes for a filling meal here. The lamb ragù, with plump ricotta cavatelli and wilted Swiss chard, is particularly soul satisfying. And enjoying it with one of White’s barrel-aged negronis truly feels like an edible ode to Europe. 

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<p class="clan captionVideo">AGNOLOTTI IN Pea purée; CHICKEN FORGIONE WITH Spicy broccolini; ROASTED JAPANESE 
EGGPLANT WITH Lemon yogurt, Fresno peppers, mint, AND pistachios; CHEF PLATES A DISH at Duck, Duck Goose.</p>
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<h3 class="text-center unit">Duck Duck Goose</h3>
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<h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">FELLS POINT</span> / <span class="unit">814 S. Broadway</span> </h5>
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<p class="clan captionVideo">Duck Duck Goose OWNER-CHEF Ashish Alfred</p>
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The arrival of this sophisticated yet unstuffy French restaurant last year was among the tastiest developments in the city’s food scene. Chef Ashish Alfred opened the second location of his brasserie (the first is in Bethesda) with the hope of bringing upscale cuisine to a neighborhood not generally known for it—and he has succeeded spectacularly. Dishes like tournedos—a center-cut filet with foie gras, potatoes, and broccoli purée in a red-wine reduction—halibut wrapped in a puff pastry, and, of course, honey-roasted duck are as delicious as they are beautiful. An in-depth cocktail program, specials like half-priced bottles of rosé on Thursdays, and bottomless mimosas during brunch ensure that the restaurant is approachable for people who may not be used to seeing dishes like bone marrow with beef ragù and blueberry jam in a zip code most associated with beer pitchers and chicken wings. 
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      <h3 class="text-center unit">Gunther & Co.</h3>
      </a> 
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Brewers Hill</span> / <span class="unit">3650 Toone St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Whether you’re grabbing lunch, dinner, drinks, or brunch, this Canton staple is the kind of place where every element serves a purpose. On a recent Saturday afternoon, a pizza with pulled pork and Monterey Jack would have been delicious on its own, but executive chef Jerry Trice’s kitchen adds sliced apples, kale, and spicy chutney, which upgrades the dish from merely good to great. Classics like a grilled bone-in pork chop mac-and-cheese are treated with the same reverence as inspired Asian-influenced dishes such as duck confit and the legendary Thai seafood hot pot. At Gunther, everything is done for a reason, and we’re all the better for it. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/the-helmand" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">The Helmand</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Mt. Vernon</span> / <span class="unit">806 N. Charles St.</span> </h5>
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      What does it take to become an institution? Going on 30 years of serving outstanding food seems like a good start. Offering essentially the same menu that whole time while remaining relevant seals the deal. Despite its tenure, The Helmand flies under the radar. But low-key assuredness is its thing. Afghan cuisine may be unfamiliar to many, but the dishes served here are instantly comforting—savory stews of lamb or spinach-stuffed eggplant, simmered in sun-dried tomatoes and even rhubarb, accentuated with a note of turnip and baby grapes. Pasta is also present, as homemade noodles in vegetable soup, or filled with leeks as ravioli-like dumplings served with a tart yogurt sauce. The dining room has been subtly refreshed and the service has similarly been shored up to be prompt yet unintrusive. 
      
      
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      <h3 class="text-center unit">Hersh’s</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Riverside</span> / <span class="unit">1843-45 Light St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Tucked away quite literally on the edge of the city, Hersh’s offers an inviting atmosphere and lovingly prepared fare. The Neapolitan pizzas are fantastic, but you’d be making a mistake to ignore the rest of the menu. From apps like wood-fired octopus featuring orange zest and shaved fennel to house-made fettuccine livened up with pecorino cheese, pistachios, and lemon, Hersh’s kitchen works hard to serve you great food. The dessert list is short but delectable, and of course, it’s all made in-house. The welcoming bar slings creative cocktails and offers a range of craft beer on tap. Wine enthusiasts may quibble that the food deserves a deeper list than the dozen or so bottles on offer, but what’s there is good quality. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/ida-bs-table" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Ida B’s Table</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Downtown</span> / <span class="unit">235 Holliday St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Ida B’s Table immediately emanates warmth. Whether it’s the copper accents or the upbeat soundtrack of rhythm and blues, you’ll want to stay a while. (The new reading room with books by authors of color encourages lingering, as well.) Of course, the best reason to stay is the elevated soul food conceived by chef Dave Thomas—a recent winner on the Food Network competition show <i>Chopped</i>—which feels nostalgic (a nod to his grandmother, who descended from slaves) and innovative all at once. Here, you’ll find dishes like a kale and black-eyed pea chili and Creole shrimp penne, which brings on the Louisiana heat. Also save room for dessert, whether it’s the decadent Mississippi Mud <i>pot de creme</i> or a simple scoop of honey graham from community-minded creamery Taharka Brothers. Groundbreaking journalist Ida B. Wells, the restaurant’s namesake, would be proud that the place not only provides nourishment, but also a new perspective. 
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      <h3 class="text-center unit">La Cuchara</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Woodberry</span> / <span class="unit">3600 Clipper Mill Rd.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      At 8,500 square feet, La Cuchara is one of Baltimore’s biggest restaurants, which is a good thing, because there’s a lot to love at this Basque-based boîte, from the pintxos (top-your-own <i>pan con tomate</i> is a given) to the banana rum cake. We love that no two visits here are alike. Co-owner chef Ben Lefenfeld—he’s the one artfully carving the Ibérico ham—tweaks the menu daily to bring you the highlights of each season. (Proof that this place is always looking for new inspiration—we spied a collection of cookbooks in the open kitchen). Without being overly formal or fussy, La Cuchara hits all the high points we’ve come to expect from fine dining—a great wine and cider list (a <i>Wine Enthusiast</i> nod, no less) and innovative cocktail program, always stellar service (Ben’s younger brother, Jake, is the host with the most), and dishes that taste great, thanks to the pedigree of their sourcing. 
      
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/la-scala" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">La Scala</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Little Italy</span> / <span class="unit">1012 Eastern Ave.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      When it comes to Italian food, the new guard often strives to walk in the footsteps of the truly traditional—house-made pasta, sauces with both substance and nuance, top-notch ingredients, no cut corners. La Scala has been doing it for decades. The offerings are textbook Little Italy, but the execution is utterly expert. Melt-in-your-mouth prosciutto is shaved so thin that the menu can be read through it. Gnocchi gently curled from hand-rolling have an impeccable cloud-like texture and are dressed in pesto that is revelatory in its powerful perfume of fresh basil. Marsala sauce is complex, yet clean, with the sweet wine balancing the earthy wild mushrooms. Service and ambience are a bit cliché, but what’s missing in innovation is made up for in skill, warmth, and pure fun. Isn’t that what eating out is all about? 
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">GRILLED LOBSTER; LEMON-PEAR DOUGHNUTs WITH fromage blanc GELATO AND ACAcia honey DRIZZLE AT FLAMANT.</p>
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      <h3 class="text-center unit">Flamant</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">ANNAPOLIS</span> / <span class="unit">17 Annapolis St.</span> </h5>
      
      <p>
      As Belgian chef Frederik De Pue shakes up the culinary no-man’s-land of West Annapolis, there’s a new stunner in the state capital. Pick any nook in this charming bungalow and prepare to pique your senses with unique riffs on classic European cuisine. This space is all about intimacy, whether you’re watching the chef sous vide your buttery duck breast <i>a l’orange</i> from the open kitchen or simply sucking down broiled bone marrow with bourbon flambé and salt-cured capers while basking in the glow of the fireplace. The crock of bouillabaisse meant for two—a mountain of just-caught fish swimming in a fragrant broth—honors the town’s claim to fame as a seafood city. At meal’s end, keep those warm and fuzzy feelings coming by roasting your own s’mores on the front-patio fire pit. 
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      <h3 class="text-center unit">Les Folies Brasserie</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Annapolis</span> / <span class="unit">2552 Riva Rd.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Blink and you might miss this tiny white building amongst credit unions and car dealerships in Annapolis. But step through the archway and suddenly you’re in a Parisian bistro with its burgundy banquettes and marigold walls. Since opening it in 1999, chef-owner Alain Matrat has been greeting customers with a “<i>bon soir</i>”—even before the impeccable service begins. Though the state capital is king when it comes to crab and crushes, Matrat’s establishment is the rare white tablecloth favorite. It’s easy to see why, especially when you stick with Gallic standards, including the escargots bathing in garlic butter and salad  Niçoise where every bite of tuna, olives, and egg has its place. There are several entrees to choose from—don’t overlook the simple but well-executed <i>Les Moules Mariniere et Frites</i>—but a recent highlight was <i>Escalope de Veau a la Crème</i>, thin slices of veal and chanterelles drizzled in a cream sauce supported by a pillow of puréed potatoes and snow peas. <i>Parfait!</i> 
      
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/linwoods" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Linwoods</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Owings Mills</span> / <span class="unit">25 Crossroads Dr.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      When you’re both the owner and the chef of a restaurant, you care about everything that happens, not only in your kitchen but in your dining room, too. Nowhere is this more apparent than at Linwoods, which has set the gold standard for fine dining in the county for more than 30 years. Indeed, chef-owner Linwood Dame takes tremendous pride of place. Smiling hostesses never fail to make us feel as though they’ve been waiting for us to arrive all day, servers in their crisp white shirts handle our orders with military precision, and the New American fare itself, down to the house-made chocolate mint that accompanies each check, is never less than perfection. Gifts from the kitchen on one journey included a knock-out plate of house-made goat cheese ravioli with roasted corn purée, confit pearl onions, tomatoes, and brown butter and the restaurant’s signature simple yet sublime sea bass with chilled lemon crab salad, horseradish potatoes, and haricots verts. Linwoods puts the fine in fine dining. 
      
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      <h3 class="text-center unit">Lobo</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Fells Point</span> / <span class="unit">1900 Aliceanna St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Lobo is the kind of corner restaurant and bar everyone needs in their neighborhood. A welcoming staff? Check. (If you’re not greeted by name by the lovely servers, you’re treated as if you’re a future regular.) Great craft beer and top-notch cocktails? Check. (Hot spiced rum rates.) A wide selection of shellfish, meats, and cheeses that make a perfect snack or small meal? Check. Seemingly simple sandwiches packed with meat on fresh bread? Check. (The Stack, with turkey, pork loin, gouda, and bacon on sourdough is an obsession.) Creative specials like a Thai-inspired bowl with mussels, shrimp, rice, and veggies? They’ve got that, too—and it was even brought to us by co-owner Jamie Hubbard, who wanted us to know that we got the best piece of pork belly in the place. We dug in. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/loch-bar" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Loch Bar</h3>
      </a> 
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Harbor East</span> / <span class="unit">240 International Dr.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      It’s hard not to get swept away by one of the many mouth-watering offerings at this Harbor East seafood spot—rockfish fried in Natty Boh, shrimp and grits, or a lobster roll. But the tagline—“Raw Bar & Elixirs”—tells you all you need to know. Though the stylish interior is perfectly pleasant, in the warmer climes, there’s no better place to sit outside: Feel super fancy as you enjoy a shellfish tower, decadently large shrimp, an extravagant platter of Russian caviar and blinis, or Sweet Jesus oysters, while sipping on craft cocktails or one of 500-plus whiskeys—including rare bottles of Japanese Hibiki. Hon, who? Welcome to Baltimore, dahling! 
      
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">ROASTING BRUSSELS SPROUTS; A BEET SALAD; THE MUSHROOM STEW AT FORAGED.</p>
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      <h2 class="text-center unit">Foraged</h2>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">HAMPDEN</span> / <span class="unit">3520 Chestnut Ave.</span> </h5>
      <p class="text-center">
      <span class="clan editors uppers">By JANE MARION</span>
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">OWNER-CHEF, CHRIS AMENDOLA.</p>
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      <p>
      It’s a Thursday afternoon at Foraged, and chef-owner Chris Amendola is trimming turnips and readying radishes that will later get glazed and tossed into the vegetarian risotto. With his slight build and man bun, Amendola looks younger than his 34 years, though he’s fit a lot into them, working in kitchens alongside famed chefs including James Beard Award-winner Dan Barber of Blue Hill Farm and Sean Brock of Husk. “Sean Brock was one of the calmest chefs I’ve ever known,” says Amendola, “but Dan Barber would talk down to you and make you feel like a worthless piece of shit.” In his own kitchen, Amendola exudes the sense of calm and confidence that comes with being your own boss. By 4 p.m., he’s received his meat—beef, pork, chicken—from Rettland Farm; green garlic, beets, broccoli rabe, and potatoes from Third Way, Karma, and Moon Valley farms; and oysters from Sapidus Farms.
      </p>
      
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            After a string of burn-out jobs, the avid mushroom forager briefly considered another line of work before deciding to open Foraged—his first restaurant—in December 2017. “I’d like to think I could make it outside restaurants,” says Amendola. “But I don’t think I could.” He assembled a team of familiar faces—Nico Bustos as his house manager and Chris Lewis, his sous chef, both of whom he worked with at Fleet Street Kitchen. “The baby” is Stephen Stone, a game designer by day, whom Amendola hired as a line cook after Stone messaged him on Instagram. “His entire feed was food,” recalls the chef. 
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">THE PLANT WALL at foraged.</p>
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      After family meal, Stone, who works the fryer and cold station, runs watermelon radishes through the mandolin for a beet salad. Meanwhile, Lewis oversees the preparations of the proteins and Amendola works other elements of the hot dishes, including his mushroom stew, which mainly features ingredients he has foraged himself. By 7 p.m., most of the patrons, including chef Jerry Pellegrino and his party of four, have arrived—all at the same time. Now it’s Nico’s chance to sell the seasonal menu, which reads like a field guide to the Maryland woods. “I can count on one hand how many times something has gone back to the kitchen,” he says, as customers are ever-appreciative. One diner stops by the kitchen to gush: “Your meat game is off the hook.” Another expresses her amazement that “even in the bathroom there’s basil growing.” In a rare down moment, Amendola peers out into the dining room. “I’m looking at the expressions on their faces as dishes arrive,” he says. “I like to see their initial reactions.” But it’s really their final feedback that speaks the loudest. Says the chef, “I like watching the plates come back completely clean.” 
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      <h3 class="text-center unit">Lupa*</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Columbia</span> / <span class="unit">10215 Wincopin Cir.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Howard County foodies bemoaned news that renowned restaurateurs Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman were shuttering their Columbia outpost of Petit Louis. But the mourning period didn’t last long. This latest concept, Lupa, which bills itself as “a casual Roman trattoria,” fills the high-quality dining void left by their French bistro. The menu is broken into <i>antipasti</i>, <i>primi</i>, <i>secondi</i>, and casual offerings, and there’s much to like from each. Buffalo milk mozzarella, served with butternut squash and grilled bread, is an excellent starter. The squid-ink spaghetti with shrimp and calamari is as good a version as we’ve had in a while, and the chicken wrapped in prosciutto is downright delicious. A funghi pizza came chocked with mushrooms and featured a tasty Roman-style crust. We took most of it home because at Lupa, it’s vital that you save room for house-made gelati. 
      
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/magdalena" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Magdalena</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Mt. Vernon</span> / <span class="unit">205 E. Biddle St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Eating out should be an escape from the humdrum of our own kitchens, which is why a trip to Magdalena never disappoints. A visit to this fine-dining establishment, set inside the Ivy Hotel, feels luxurious from the minute we hand our keys over to the valet to our last sip of espresso. Chef Mark Levy dazzles with dishes full of bravura, creativity, and aesthetic appeal. To wit, this winter, a chestnut “scrapple” with onion marmalade and deviled eggs was a great breakfast-for- dinner upscale option, and the peppered venison tenderloin with pumpkin, date purée, and huckleberry <i>jus</i> was well-balanced and highlighted the best flavors of the fall season, while a tray of gorgeous shellfish—Thai mussels in green curry, Gulf shrimp, local oysters, and ceviche—also paid homage to our seas. Service is so good it’s practically telepathic, and grape guru Robert Parker has blessed the wine list. 
      
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      <h3 class="text-center unit">Minnow</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Riverside</span> / <span class="unit">2 E. Wells St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      One of the buzziest restaurants in Baltimore is the rustic boîte brought to you by La Cuchara’s Lefenfeld brothers. This modern seafood house lures a loyal following of post-work diners, county commuters, and brunch-time imbibers, for appealing—and affordable—riffs on aquatic classics. As the name implies, fish dishes are the star of the show. On a recent visit, Exhibit A was a gorgeous whole rainbow trout swimming in a pool of jalapeño-garlic cream with sweet corn and smoky caramelized onions. Exhibit B was the soft-shell crabs atop charred herb aioli, which treated our state treasure with proper reverence. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/ouzo-bay" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Ouzo Bay</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Harbor East</span> / <span class="unit">1000 Lancaster St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Open since 2012, this upscale Greek go-to is the granddaddy of the Atlas Restaurant Group’s now 11 properties. With strong emphasis on seafood, the modern Aegean restaurant is no worse for the wear. In fact, Ouzo—with a newly planned patio and spiffed-up dining room—has only aged like a fine Santorini wine. Sterling standards are mostly on the seafood side of the menu: sweet and supple karavides shrimp, Norwegian langoustines, a whole bronzino flown in from Greece. That said, the lamb shank with orzo, Yia Yia’s old country moussaka, and fried zucchini with tzatziki speaks to us, too. Truly, it’s all Greek to us. 
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      <p class="clan captionVideo"> SEAFOOD SALAD AND MISS JEAN’S RED CRAB SOUP; DINING ROOM AT GERTRUDE’S CHESAPEAKE KITCHEN. FRIED OYSTERS READY FOR PLATING.</p>
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/gertrudes" target="_blank">
      <h2 class="text-center unit">Gertrude’s Chesapeake Kitchen</h2>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">CHARLES VILLAGE</span> / <span class="unit">10 Art Museum Dr. </span> </h5>
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      <span class="clan editors uppers">By JESS MAYHUGH</span>
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">CHEF DOUG WETZEL AT WORK IN THE KITCHEN.</p>
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      Clad in a simple black apron, John Shields glides through the dining room of his restaurant, Gertrude’s Chesapeake Kitchen, and patrons start to buzz: “There’s John!” “Is he cooking tonight?” With his bright eyes and silver hair, he moves beyond the bar to a dimly lit enclave and introduces Olga, who is lighting votives. “She does this to make it smell like a church,” he cracks, before swinging open the right door to the kitchen.
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      <p> “Now we have to get through Kelly. He’s like a wall,” Shields says of his expediter, who is prepping cups of tartar and cocktail sauces. Racks to the left of the glowing ovens are piled floor-to-ceiling with trays of pan-fried chicken and domes of jumbo-lump crab.
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      <p>
      Just past the expo station is Eddie Knott wrapping asparagus stalks in prosciutto. “We’ve got a party on the terrace tonight. Eddie is a master caterer and has been here for years,” Shields explains. Behind him, Yolanda Johnson, a former Army cook, turns out tons of soup and, apparently, the latest celebrity gossip. Shields calls her “the soup queen of the Pa-taps-a-co” in his best Bawlmerese. There’s Maria Cruz, or “Mama” (Olga’s mom), the kitchen’s matriarch, who has a shrine to the Pope and Lady of Guadalupe at her dishwashing station. At the cooktops are Minas Lentis, at the restaurant for 10 years, and Chico Lizama, helping sauté tonight. Frying pans hiss, oven timers beep, and the distinct smell of Old Bay wafts through the air. “This is close quarters back here,” says Shields. “The whole thing becomes a real dance.”
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      <p>
      Noticeably absent from the spectacle is executive chef Doug Wetzel who, since 2007, has been posted between pastry and expo so he can see the lay of the land. But he hasn’t been here in weeks. “I guess you could call it a sabbatical,” he explains later. “I need time to rewire the way I think.” 
      </p>
      <p>
      Nearly four years ago, on May 30, 2015, Wetzel was in tip-top shape competing in the Rock Hall International Triathlon on the Eastern Shore. Right after the 1500-meter swim and 24.5-mile bike ride, the 32-year-old collapsed from heatstroke. At death’s door, he was flown to Shock Trauma in Baltimore, where a team of nearly 200 brought him back from multiple organ failure. By the next day, he was undergoing a liver transplant and began the arduous process of recovery. Miraculously, before Thanksgiving, he was back to work full-time. “What you do is minimize the entire event,” Wetzel says. “You don’t want to deal with it, so you think, ‘I'm healing. No big deal, I dodged a bullet.’” Still in a wheelchair, he came to work to do orders one Monday in October. “Work blocked all the bad stuff. I even randomly started a doughnut business that winter. It all makes sense to me now—you keep piling on to distract yourself from what you’re really going through.”
      </p>
      <p>
      Wetzel worked 300-cover lunches during the <i>Matisse-Diebenkorn</i> exhibit at the adjacent Baltimore Museum of Art in 2016. He even spearheaded the restaurant’s recent menu transformation from Gertrude’s to Gertrude’s Chesapeake Kitchen. But now, after a dizzying few years, the chef admits that he never let himself process his own trauma and is suffering from anxiety and depression. “This has been a weird but natural evolution of me trying to fill my time differently,” he says, tearfully. “I realize now that work was a coping mechanism. I became a huge workaholic.” As Shields sees it: “He was so appreciative to be alive that he started to do <i>everything</i>. He was always like that, but this was like <i>whoa</i>.” While Wetzel knew it was time to take a break in late 2018—and that his close relationship with Shields would allow him to do just that—he knew his absence from the kitchen would be temporary. He plans to come back gradually, on a part-time basis, and achieve a healthy work-life balance that feels right for him and his wife, Kacey. “There is this core family at Gertrude’s,” Wetzel says. “The kitchen feels like home for me, and it’s a place where I feel safe.”
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">GERTRUDE’S STAFF INSIDE THE BALTIMORE MUSEUM OF ART.</p>
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      <p>
      Plus, Wetzel is energized by the new menu he developed: creative small plates, a fashionable cocktail menu, and fresh takes on sustainable seafood. “When we first opened, the BMA was this foreboding building on a hill,” Shields says. “But now you see art students studying on the steps, more exciting exhibits. It’s really alive now, and we want to mirror that.” Adding to the signature crab cakes and fried chicken are dishes like crabby “poutine,” mini shepherd’s pie croquettes, and Baltimore catties—a play on a traditional coddie using blue catfish. “We looked at the menu and focused on what people really like, embracing this idea that we’re not stuck,” Wetzel says. “I thought outside the box to come up with dishes I’d want to eat. It didn’t have to feel like old Gertrude’s.” 
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      <p>
      Though there is certainly nothing wrong with that. This grand dame—with its blue-haired regulars and sculpture garden parties—has clearly been doing something right. You can see it back in the cramped but congenial kitchen, where decades-old staff laugh at Yolanda’s jokes, worship the ground that Mama walks on, and listen when Lizama says that an order is lagging. This is the where Shields took a chance 20 years ago and it’s where, right between pastry and expo, a perch will be waiting for Wetzel when he is ready to come back. “If everyone is happy and in harmony in the kitchen, it’s going to show in the food,” Wetzel says. “We’re not perfect, no one is. But I’m a firm believer that happy chefs make better food.”  
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/petit-louis-bistro" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Petit Louis Bistro</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Roland Park</span> / <span class="unit">4800 Roland Ave.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      There’s something about Petit Louis that makes it feel like it’s always been here. Maybe it’s the old zinc bar, or the lovingly worn red velvet banquettes, which you must have lounged about in another lifetime. It might be the seasoned waitstaff who appear like old friends. Whether it’s your first visit or your 50th, time slows down in this veteran Foreman Wolf bistro that’s abuzz every night of the week. Before long, you’ve drifted off to old-world Paris over <i>magnifique</i> martinis and flawless French classics. There’s no shame in being a creature of comfort here—from the signature onion soup, to the simple perfection of the <i>frisée aux lardons</i> salad and the divine <i>coq au vin</i>. Whatever you order, stay awhile. You’ll quickly understand why the restaurant has, too.
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/preserve" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Preserve</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Annapolis</span> / <span class="unit">164 Main St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      With an emphasis on local sourcing and seasonal preservation, chef Jeremy Hoffman melds the Chesapeake’s harvest with his Pennsylvania Dutch heritage into a thoughtful hybrid of regional cuisine. Nearby growers are given shout-outs on the rotating menu of farm finds (among them, turnip “linguini” and Eastern Shore mushroom salad with sour cream), while the walls are lined with jars of pickled vegetables and fermented sauces that find their way into almost every dish. We tend to favor local seafood in this harborside city, but in the name of tradition, we placed our trust in Hoffman’s German-influenced dishes, such as the restorative chicken pot pie and the surprise standout of slow-braised pork with house-made sauerkraut. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/the-prime-rib" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">The Prime Rib</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Mt. Vernon </span> / <span class="unit">1101 N. Calvert St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      New steakhouses may come and go in Baltimore, but in our minds and hearts, there will only ever be one, and that’s The Prime Rib. At this 54-year-old stalwart, there’s no room for trendiness—no barrel-aged mezcal Manhattans or miso-glazed skirt steaks. Instead, you’ll find old-world charm by the gravy boatload: first-rate martinis, Flintstone-sized slabs of superior meat (go with the titular prime rib steak, which is the signature cut but served bone-in and seared), sumptuous side dishes (potato skins forever), and a world-class piano player providing the evening’s soundtrack (don’t forget to tip). The beauty of this place is that it remains unchanged, living on as a time-warp to when service was supreme and dining out was an unforgettable experience. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/rec-pier-chop-house" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Rec Pier Chop House</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Fells Point</span> / <span class="unit">1715 Thames St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Even if you’re not staying at the swanky Sagamore Pendry hotel, you’ll want to take some time at the Rec Pier Chop House. Lounge under the stars in the courtyard with a craft cocktail, then sashay into the stunning space (the former <i>Homicide: Life on the Street</i> police precinct transformed into an exercise in elegance). The Italian chophouse fare is similarly transformative. Start with a Caesar salad, dramatically prepared at your table, share an order of pasta (spaghetti and meatballs stuffed with fontina, ricotta, beef, pork, and veal), then split a steak (say a seared boneless ribeye served with a nutty gorgonzola sauce), though the fire-roasted lemon chicken is the sleeper hit of the menu. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/tio-pepe" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Restaurante Tio Pepe</h3>
      </a> 
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Midtown-Belvedere</span> / <span class="unit">10 E. Franklin St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Some things, like fine wine and our ability to gauge how much of it we can drink without getting too tipsy, improve with age. Tio Pepe is not one of those things. Don’t get us wrong, even if this Spanish institution is exactly the same as it ever was, it still occupies an important space in our city’s culinary milieu. And little has changed since it opened in 1968. The menu, filled with classics such as the suckling pig, paella, and curious combinations like sole with bananas, offers a variety of flavors. Portions remain large, and tables are still catered to by teams of servers. And, oh, that sangria. Order a pitcher and take whatever you can’t drink home, although this is the one place where we can’t seem to resist that extra glass, no matter how old we—or this gem of a restaurant—get. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/royal-taj" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Royal Taj Restaurant</h3>  
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Columbia</span> / <span class="unit">8335 Benson Dr.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      The move to a larger location a few years ago was key in exposing Royal Taj’s singularly spectacular Indian food to a wider audience. But the space is not the only notable aspect of the dining experience here—upon arrival, the doors are flung open to reveal an unexpectedly Rococo-themed dining room, with recessed nooks and a glitzy bar. As for the food, the menu contains familiar preparations crafted with incomparable skill and care. House-made cheese pakoras are fried with a gossamer shell, while kabobs are marinated to tender succulence, then elevated with a coating of garlic and herbs. A mound of smoky biryani disintegrates into fluffy yet toothsome rice grains seasoned to the core, sweet coconut milk underpins warm spices in a Malabar curry sauce, and even ubiquitous vindaloo is properly spiked with tart acidity to complement the heat. As the capable waitstaff swarms to serve your dishes, it’s a transporting introduction to the subcontinent.
      
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">OWNERS BUD AND KARIN TIFFANY; THE bar; GARLIC BREAD;  TUNA TARTAR WITH FRIED WONTONS at peter's inn.</p>
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/peters-inn" target="_blank">
      <h2 class="text-center unit">Peter’s Inn</h2>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">FELLS POINT</span> / <span class="unit">504 S. Ann St.</span> </h5>
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      <span class="clan editors uppers">By Lydia Woolever</span>
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">STEPPING INSIDE Peter’s Inn.</p>
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      <p>
      One of the first things you notice upon entering Peter’s Inn is that the marlin still stands. One wintry night toward the end of 2017, not long after owners Karin and Bud Tiffany headed upstairs to bed, their first-floor rowhome restaurant nearly met its demise when a cast-aside cigarette engulfed the Fells Point institution in flames. The building’s façade was badly burned, and the interior was ravaged with smoke and water damage, leaving much of the iconic bric-a-brac stashed away for a costly cleaning. For longtime regulars, the newly bare walls are jarring at first—notwithstanding the old faithful stuffed fish, which now hangs above the bar—but it doesn’t take long to realize that the décor wasn’t what made Peter’s <i>Peter’s</i> anyway. 
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      <p>
      “I’ll tell you what I see,” says Karin before heading back to her tiny kitchen one early December evening. “I see old people, young people, black people, white people, Hons, Roland Park ladies, Orthodox Jews, artists. Peter’s is a great equalizer.”
      </p>
      <p>
      Karin wouldn’t wish the fire on her worst enemy, not with all the insurance and renovation headaches that followed them well into 2018, but she has found a sense of renewal in its wake. "First of all, you get to start over,” she says. “That’s nice at 53. It’s also really tiring and scary.” Now, after a 10-month hiatus, you’d never know they closed. A gap like that can be the death of a restaurant, but much as the funds flooded in to help the Tiffanys rebuild, so did the customers, both loyal habitués and wide-eyed newcomers, once their former biker bar was resurrected.
      </p>
      
      <p>
      On this night, lone drinkers tie one on at the bar, lovestruck couples lean over candlelit two-tops, and large parties cram into the back tables beneath the old oil paintings of Karin’s great-grandparents. They’re not here for grain bowls or zucchini noodles, which seem to be everywhere these days, except maybe here. Instead, they’ve gathered for the begrudgingly dependable charm—the tattooed waitstaff, the famous garlic bread, that perfectly seared petit filet. (Not to mention Bud’s own <i>pot de creme</i> desserts.) Sure, the tin ceiling is new, as are the glitzy chandeliers, but nudie artwork still hangs on the bathroom walls, and the neon “Cocktails” sign still tips its martini, now fittingly above the liquor bottles—a sort of last beacon of Old Baltimore. 
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">THE back dining room at Peter’s Inn.</p>
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      <p>
      A night at Peter’s unfolds like a scene in a film by John Waters (who unsurprisingly frequents the restaurant)—a beautiful chaos that gets louder and lewder as the hours wane on. You come to be a part of it. That the food happens to taste good, if not extraordinary, is just a bonus. 
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      <p>
      “We’re the most charming sociopaths you’ll ever meet,” says Karin with a wicked smile, holding court at the end of the bar after the dinner rush as the old marlin watches overhead. “We’re humbled,” says Bud, looking around the full house. “It still feels like the same Peter’s, just a little tidied up.” 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/rye-street-tavern" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Rye Street Tavern</h3>
      </a> 
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Port Covington</span> / <span class="unit">13 Rye St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      As the barn-like building with a red tin roof and a wide front lawn littered with Adirondack chairs comes into view along quiet waters, you might wonder where you are. The middle of Nantucket, perhaps? Guess again. You’re in Port Covington and at the “It” restaurant of 2018. And make no mistake—Rye Street Tavern and Michelin-starred, James Beard Award-winning chef Andrew Carmellini take Chesapeake cuisine seriously. Consider the rockfish shrimp and grits, a seafood bake straight out of the wood-fire oven, or the fried chicken we hear is owner Kevin Plank’s favorite. Wash it all down with a Sagamore Spirit rye cocktail distilled on site and you qualify as a Marylander, no matter where you hail from. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/sotto-sopra" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Sotto Sopra</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Mt. Vernon</span> / <span class="unit">405 N. Charles St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      It has been decades since this decadent Italian restaurant began serving its first plates of house-made pasta, seafood, and steaks, yet it’s always managed to reinvent itself. Case in point: its monthly Sunday opera nights. During November’s three-hour, five-course extravaganza (the singers, accompanied by a pianist, bellowed out songs in the snug dining room between courses), the rich carrot soup was the ideal starter for a cold night. After an aria or two came the real star: an outstanding plate of pumpkin risotto with gorgonzola and brown butter gremolata topped with seared scallops. 
      By the time the tasty goat cheese cheesecake with fresh pear purée and raspberry sorbet arrived, we couldn’t decide which had brought us closer to tears of joy—the moving music or the fantastic fare. 
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      <p class="clan captionVideo">A TRIO OF CEVICHES; THE DINING ROOM; CHEF-Owner JOSE VICTORIO ALARCON at Puerto 511.</p>
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/puerto-511" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Puerto 511</h3>
      </a>
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">DOWNTOWN</span> / <span class="unit">102 W. Clay St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Situated on an otherwise run-down street in Baltimore’s Bromo Arts District, the unassuming Puerto 511 would be easy to overlook.But don’t. Owned by Peruvian-born chef Jose Victorio Alarcon and his wife, Connie, we can say with certainty—having just made it down the mountains of Machu Picchu ourselves—that this BYOB stunner offers thrillingly authentic dishes you won’t find anywhere else in town. Look for traditional techniques mixed with local ingredients such as grilled skewers of veal heart marinated in <i>aji panca</i> sauce and served with Peruvian corn and rocoto pepper sauce or a citrusy ceviche, including octopus, squid, white fish, sweet potato, and <i>aji limo</i> chile bathing in smoked tiger milk, as well as Asian fusion dishes (wok-fried rice with seafood and plantains, for instance) integral to Peruvian cuisine. Make this part of your regular restaurant rotation, but if it’s your first time, take the weekend-only (that’s Fridays and Saturdays) $59 per person <i>prix-fixe</i> tasting tour. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/sushi-sono" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Sushi Sono</h3>
      </a> 
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Columbia</span> / <span class="unit">10215 Wincopin Cir.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      There are precious few authentic sushi restaurants around the region, and Sushi Sono is one of them. The standard bill of fish by the piece, cooked dishes like tempura and teriyaki, and, of course, over-the-top elaborate rolls are all on offer, but this restaurant’s true greatness lies elsewhere. On a given night, one could find Hawaiian kampachi, Alaskan salmon, or madai snapper flown in from Japan on special at the sushi bar, served as perfectly sliced slabs dotted with grated wasabi. Hidden in plain view within the menu under “Teshoku,” or traditional preset dinners, are also “off-menu” items such as fried oysters, Japanese sable fish cooked just to translucence with miso marinade, and yellowtail collar lined with lusciously rich meat. Add to all of that politely efficient service, a lakefront view, and even a $500 bottle of sake, and it makes for true destination dining. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/tagliata" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Tagliata</h3>
      </a> 
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Harbor East</span> / <span class="unit">1012 Fleet St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Tagliata is warm and inviting, with woven chairs, linen banquettes, and lighting that flatters. But it’s the call of the live, nightly piano music that really works its magic from the street. The spell continues as you settle into your seat and consider a bottle of wine from the deep list of offerings. Move on to one of several excellent crudos or a bowl of any of executive chef-partner Julian Marucci’s handmade pastas. (We could write a love song about the squid-ink campanelle with Peekytoe crab, sea urchin cream sauce, and chili basil.) Maybe you're more in the mood for a dry-aged strip steak with grilled lemon and head of roasted garlic; or the classic chicken Parm. Whatever you order, the spell cannot be broken. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/thames-street-oyster-house" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Thames Street Oyster House</h3>
      </a> 
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Fells Point</span> / <span class="unit">1728 Thames St.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Every time we return to this seafood mecca, we make a point to tell ourselves: Don’t let the exquisite raw bar or best-in-show (at least in these parts) lobster roll distract from chef Eric Houseknecht’s immense talent. So, on a recent excursion, we ordered with an eye toward the kitchen, and we weren’t disappointed. The roasted lamb neck appetizer, served atop chickpeas and hunks of garlic, was a substantial and savory way to start the meal. The North Atlantic monkfish paired with potato gnocchi, butternut squash, Brussels sprouts, and bacon in lobster sauce is brilliant in its combination of flavors. With one exception, the pasta is made in-house—only the cavatappi in the lobster mac comes from elsewhere. The restaurant sells too much of it to keep up. That’s a sign that after seven-plus years, Thames Street remains atop the city’s seafood chain.
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/vin-909" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Vin 909</h3>
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      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Annapolis</span> / <span class="unit">909 Bay Ridge Ave.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      Eating at this hidden treasure feels like attending a dinner party. That’s not really a surprise, as the restaurant is housed inside a former private home in Eastport. Part of the draw is its wine list—with many exceptional glasses for less than $10 and bottles for south of $30—which is among the most approachable we’ve encountered. Pizza is the kitchen’s focus, and here, too, both quality and value coexist. We couldn’t stop eating slices of the fabulous Envious Pig, topped with broccoli garlic purée, mozzarella, Parmesan, ricotta, Berkshire pig speck, leeks, jalapeño, and vinaigrette. Declicious as it was, we still needed 
      a to-go box. For those who don’t like to share, an entree of crab-stuffed squash was among the most innovative ways we’ve consumed the shellfish. Don’t arrive late to this dinner party. Vin 909 doesn’t take reservations, and there’s usually a wait, which is always worth it. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/vitos-ristorante-italiano" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Vito Ristorante</h3>
      </a> 
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Cockeysville</span> / <span class="unit">10249 York Rd.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      If you’re craving Italian-inflected comfort food north of the city, head straight to Vito’s. Italian-American classics like veal marsala and seafood linguine are prepared with care and in generous portions. Don’t ignore the daily specials or the pizza; the original margherita is the best brick-oven pie we’ve found in the county. We were pleasantly surprised by a wine list that featured Italian points of interest (wine guru Robert Parker holds court here), as well as American mainstays, all of which were reasonably priced. Desserts, a mix of imported delicacies and house-made treats, are delicious and worth sticking around for, too. 
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      <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/restaurants/woodberry-kitchen" target="_blank">
      <h3 class="text-center unit">Woodberry Kitchen</h3>
      </a> 
      <h5 style="border-top:1px solid #000000; border-bottom:1px solid #000000; padding:0.5rem;" class="text-center"><span class="clan thin uppers" style="letter-spacing:2px; color:#aea797;">Woodberry</span> / <span class="unit">2010 Clipper Park Rd.</span> </h5>
      <p>
      When an eatery is as seasonal and local as Woodberry Kitchen, the experience can be hit or miss. Thankfully, our last sojourn was a home run. Though it debuted more than a decade ago with its pre-trendy, farm-to-table concept, the restaurant, co-owned by James Beard Award-winner Spike Gjerde, has not lost its allure. (In fact, bigwigs like former First Lady Michelle Obama and her daughters eat here.) The night we went, the bar and restaurant were abuzz, and our server, Greg, adeptly walked us through the winter menu. Ironically, the Dead On Arrival cocktail woke us right up thanks to the combination of rye whiskey, Fernet, pumpkin, maple, and pear bitters. Ricotta dumplings bobbing in hog-head broth soothed our proverbial soul, while roasted oysters with hot sauce invigorated our taste buds. The star of the show was the crispy trout filleted to crispy-skin perfection atop a swirl of sunchoke cream. While you’re never quite sure what’s on the menu, perhaps the biggest thrill is in the reveal. 
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      <p><em>*[<b>Editor’s Note</b>: After our issue went to press, we were saddened to hear that Lupa, which appears on this list, was closing. “Maybe one day we can find a house for this shewolf,” wrote co-owner Tony Foreman on Instagram. “But, for now, ciao!”]</em></b>
      
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		<title>Annapolis Restaurant Guide</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/best-annapolis-restaurants-guide/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Lauren Cohen]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jan 2019 14:22:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Annapolis]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dinner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Eastport]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lunch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://server2.local/BIT-SPRING/baltimoremagazine.com/html/?post_type=article&#038;p=490</guid>

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			<p><center><em>Edited by Suzanne Loudermilk. Written with Lauren Cohen John Farlow, Anne Haddad, Joan Jacobson, Mary Maushard, Linda Perlstein, and Bianca Sienra</p>
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<p>Annapolis, our state capital, beckons with its adorable shops, fancy sailboats at the City Dock, and grand historic homes and buildings. There’s lots to see and do, but some time during your visit, you’ll need to rest your weary feet and grab a bite. With this in mind, we thought it was time to find out exactly what is available for hungry visitors in the historic district and nearby Eastport. So we set out on a culinary expedition, sampling much of the city’s fare. After ingesting mounds of crab cakes, juicy steaks, and fat sushi rolls, we think you’ll find that our Annapolis restaurant guide gives you a comprehensive overview of the city’s culinary offerings and an assortment of eating places to satisfy your appetite whether you’re taking in the sites by sea or land. </p>
<h4><a href="https://www.cafenormandie.com/">Café Normandie</a></h4>
<p>This cute and cozy Main Street mainstay has been around forever and is wildly popular with locals, maybe because it offers a number of opportunities for decent dining (along with huge portions) at bargain prices. Normandie features French country cuisine, in keeping with its rather cramped, rustic interior of exposed wood beams and its humongous fireplace smack in the middle of the dining room. Choose from the wide selection of crêpes (a buckwheat crêpe stuffed with ratatouille is a favorite) and omelets to accompany a simple salad or charcuterie platter and a glass of wine—a perfect way to dine out without breaking the bank. Best bets for entrées are, unsurprisingly, Normandy-inspired dishes like breast of chicken with apples, veal Normandie with creamy mushroom sauce, or most of the seafood dishes. When the kitchen backs up—as it frequently does—you may find yourself getting antsy for the next course, but the wine always seems to arrive on time. <em>185 Main St., 410-263-3382</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://carrolscreek.com/">Carrol’s Creek Cafe</a></h4>
<p>The best seat in the house is probably outside—on the deck on a summer afternoon, where you can sip a brew, enjoy a meal, and watch the boat traffic with downtown Annapolis in the background. But it’s pleasant inside Carrol’s Creek, too. This contemporary restaurant has plenty going for it, including its location just over the Eastport bridge. The restaurant’s design makes the most of that location. With plenty of windows facing Spa (originally Carrol’s) Creek and tables on different levels and at different angles, almost everyone has a water view. And as night falls, the view includes the majesty of the U.S. Naval Academy chapel dome and lights from the constant cars on the bridge. Inside, the atmosphere is bustling, but not hurried. The menu is large with traditional seafood and steak, alongside soups, salads, and other light fare. Carrol’s Creek offers an interesting menu option: For $18 more than the price of an entrée, you can also get cream of crab soup, a house salad (mixed greens with bleu cheese, dried cranberries, and walnuts) and a choice of dessert. It’s a fair value for the hungry. The filet mignon is excellent, and the rockfish topped with spinach and scallops over risotto tastes even better than it sounds. Locals and tourists seem to intermingle in this casual, family-friendly atmosphere. <em>410 Severn Ave., Eastport, 410-263-8102</em> </p>
<h4><a href="http://www.chart-house.com/">The Chart House</a></h4>
<p>Talk about a room with a view. This waterside restaurant on Spa Creek captures a postcard-picture look at historic Annapolis from its Eastport vantage point. Yes, it’s a chain, but it’s also a tourist magnet with its great location. We’ve found that it’s worth a stop if you focus on appetizers, fresh fish, and certain seafood dishes. For Marylanders, the crab entrées, especially the crab cakes, may not measure up to our inbred expectations. But the blue crab dip with crostini is an excellent nosh to bolster tired spirits after walking around our state capital. Kimchi calamari with crisp vegetables is another delicious way to revive your energy. In the open, comfortable dining room, you can count on the kitchen to deliver wonderfully prepared fresh fish, like a dynamite cedar-wrapped King salmon in a fig vinaigrette. You also won’t go wrong with baked shrimp topped with crab. There’s a salad bar, but the chopped spinach salad on the menu is a beautiful mix of shredded greens, mushrooms, and radishes with hot bacon dressing. <em>300 Second St., Eastport, 410-268-7166</em> </p>
<h4><a href="http://flamantmd.com/">Flamant</a></h4>
<p>Seasonally sourced ingredients coupled with classic European techniques are the recipe for success at this West Annapolis gem. The intimate dining space features a partially open kitchen that gives diners a front-row seat to see Belgian chef Frederik De Pue in action. Snack on red snapper tartare and blue crab rolls before moving on to larger entrees like lacquered cornish hen and beef stroganoff with hanger steak and local mushrooms. Dessert is not to be skipped, as pretty pastries abound—ranging from a goat cheese tart to a caramelized banana doughnut with Grand Marnier gelato. <em>17 Annapolis St. 410-264-0274</em> </p>
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			<h4><a href="http://galwaybaymd.com/">Galway Bay</a></h4>
<p>After a relaxed stroll around the City Dock, consider hoofing up toward State Circle and popping into Galway Bay; the appetite you build up will be more than satisfied. This replica of a typical Connaught pub boasts a fine bar and plenty of booths in which to relax with a pint and friends. But it also contains a spacious, casual dining room that can accommodate large parties and families. The food at Galway Bay is centered on pub fare with mass appeal. The menu abounds with classics like shepherd’s pie and fish and chips, but also more ambitious items like fresh fish and beef short ribs. And there are many other Celtic dishes such as Irish curry fries or whiskey-and-tomato soup. It’s so much the better with what we can honestly say is a perfectly pulled pint. <em>63 Maryland Ave., 410-263-8333</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://www.harrybrownes.com/">Harry Browne’s</a></h4>
<p>Harry Browne’s offers a window on Annapolis—literally for those lucky enough to be seated at one of the few front tables—and figuratively for those within. This is a city staple, a longtime gathering spot for legislators, lobbyists, lawyers, and reporters. But on a cool weekend, the crowd is early baby-boomer couples and foursomes. Those who do get a window table have the State House dome in clear view and a front row seat on the passing State Circle parade of tourists and teens. Other diners enjoy a casually sophisticated room with dark wood, leaded glass, and striking chandeliers. Wherever you sit, you are treated to excellent food infused with unusual flavors that are beautifully presented. Amid many great tastes, the rack of lamb stands out for its richness, its size, and its melt-in-your-mouth tenderness, and for the accompanying stuffed eggplant, garlic mashed potatoes, and mint coulis. The salmon, one of the specials, has a gentle sweetness that makes it special with artichoke hearts and grape tomatoes in a light sauce. The homemade ice cream at Harry Browne’s is notable, too. There isn’t anything plain about the vanilla that goes with the delicate creme brulee. The friendly, unhurried yet professional service, stunning atmosphere, and culinary intrigue make Harry Browne’s a thoroughly enjoyable evening worth lingering over. <em>66 State Circle, 410-263-4332</em> </p>
<h4><a href="https://www.josssushi.com/">Joss Café and Sushi Bar</a></h4>
<p>“This is the best food I’ve had in ages,” a happy diner, two tables down, remarks dreamily. Hey, it’s hard not to eavesdrop at Joss Café and Sushi Bar, where the tables are packed cheek-by-jowl into a warren of well-used dining rooms, and the clients—lots of them—are usually rhapsodizing about the food. They couldn’t care less about the modest surroundings or the crowds—they’re here for the sushi. And what sushi it is: fat, silky toro; creamy, unctuous uni; crisp-crunchy baby octopus. Pretty much everything you order here, whether it’s one of the sparkling fresh seaweed salads or a selection from the daunting array of rolls, is guaranteed to be perfectly prepared. The menu is staggering, so we usually zoom in on a few favorites. We love the maguro poke, chopped raw tuna marinated in soy and sesame oil, and blended with pine nuts, sesame seeds, Japanese pepper, and scallions. The shiitake tempura is an exemplar of umami—that elusive, mysterious fifth taste best described as heavenly-funky. Bite into a cloud of batter to the earthy mushroom beneath, and you’ll find heaven indeed. And if you’re an adventurous diner, nothing could be better than the pork shumai. These light, little dumpling bombs, imbued with fiery wasabi, provide an instant, overwhelming blast of intense heat, which miraculously fades in seconds. Everything is pretty wow here, including the service, faster than a speeding bullet train. <em>195 Main St., 410-263-4688</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://lemongrassannapolis.com/">Lemongrass</a></h4>
<p>An easygoing, Far-East atmosphere and food that practically pops with flavor are the two characteristics that define Lemongrass. Service is friendly and welcoming, and we are immediately at ease in a dining room that is bright and cheery without being kitsch or formal. The menu overflows with Thai-inspired cooking, and everything is scrumptious. This is not a place for the meek of palate, however; spicy means spicy on this menu, and the ingredients are so fresh that acids tingle while sweet and salty dance jubilantly across one’s tongue. A great example is the pa ram long song, a bewitching amalgam of chicken breast and light yellow curry that sings with a little sweetness, zings with citrus, and stings, but just ever so little, with spice. Another home run is the spicy eggplant. A generous plateful of Asian eggplant that has been lightly fried and doused in garlic sauce, then sprinkled with pepper and basil, this plate satisfies a craving for the savoriness of fried food without paying the price in heavy fats, fatty fillings, or soggy leftovers for next day’s lunch. Not much is on offer for dessert, but we will say the mango sticky rice at Lemongrass is the best we’ve tasted in Maryland. <em>167 West St., 410-280-0086</em></p>
<h4><a href="https://www.lesfoliesbrasserie.com/">Les Folies Brasserie</a> </h4>
<p>Take a trip to Paris by way of Naptown at this 20-year-old neighborhood standby. Decorated with burgundy banquettes, white linen tablecloths, and Bohemian art pieces, the restaurant has become a is a go-to spot for French onion soup and classic coq au vin, but it also features flavorful pastas and fresh fish ranging from salmon to snapper. Other filling favorites include the filet mignon with red wine shallots and classic moules frites with white wine-steamed mussels and crispy French fries. Be sure to order the scratch-made souffle ahead of time, as each one takes upward of 45 minutes to prepare. <em>2552 Riva Rd. 410-573-0970</em> </p>
<h4><a href="https://levelannapolis.com/">Level </a></h4>
<p>At Level, the happy hour, with its $6 artisanal cocktails—made with such quirky ingredients as egg white and baked apple bitters, lime foam, and fresh persimmon—and similarly priced small plates of gnocchi with green peas, grilled eggplant, or hummus with roasted pear seamlessly blends into the dinner hour. You soon realize that Level is happy at all hours. And its small plates can add up to a wide array of flavors, from a duck torchon with a purée of garlic to the dessert-you-can-drink concoction of dark, malty Belgian black ale, served in a Mason jar with a scoop of ice cream. Level’s two bars—upstairs and down—are consistently crowded after work, and it recently added a second dining room. A chalkboard, pictured right, on one of the exposed-brick walls lists words related to the headings Food, Drink, and Socialize. It’s a list—with the addition of affordable—that will keep us returning. <em>69 West St. 410-268-0003</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://lewnessteakhouse.com/wordpress/menu/">Lewnes’ Steakhouse</a></h4>
<p>The Lewnes family has been at this Eastport corner since 1921, the last 14 years as a steakhouse. Recently expanded—an old family home became another dining room—Lewnes’ seems to hold its own against the upscale chain steakhouse nearby. The new space is more open than the original dining room. Tables are well-spaced, windows look into the wine room, and vintage photos give this somewhat clubby space a homey feel. The windows into the wine room afford a view of hundreds of bottles. Dabbling on this wine list is not for the faint-hearted; it is huge, sophisticated, and high-end, though there are half bottles and wines by the glass plus waiters who gladly make recommendations. The steaks are a la carte; vegetables and salads, family style, with half orders available. We recommend the small filet mignon—the flavor is huge—although the New York strip is not as tender or as flavorful. Although beef is the star, the menu includes almost as many seafood items. Service is knowledgeable and efficient, though at times, food arrives too quickly. We leave with an invitation to return from a server, a nice touch and one more reason Lewnes’ remains an Annapolis tradition. <em>401 Fourth St., Eastport, 410-263-1617</em></p>

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			<h4><a href="http://lunabluofannapolis.com/">Luna Blu</a></h4>
<p>The only reason not to order the $35 dinner special Luna Blu offers—appetizer, salad, entrée, and dessert from the regular menu—would be that you weren’t very hungry. But that could change once you got started, because the food just keeps getting better with each course in this comfortable and welcoming Italian restaurant. Chef/owner Ivano Scotto puts the “Napoli” in Annapolis, and vice versa, literally wrapping the cuisine of his native Italian Campania region around Maryland classics, and garnishing them with whimsy. Southern Italy melts atop Southern Maryland in the fried green tomatoes topped with fresh mozzarella, but Luna Blu also offers the straight-up Caprese original. The entrée choices are surprising for this relatively small restaurant—with a risotto of the day, as well as pastas, sautéed chicken breast or veal. Seafood is plentiful: A grilled salmon with spinach entrée includes a generous dividend of scallops and lump crab scattered on top, all of it enveloped in a richly flavorful cream sauce. That same sauce binds spaghetti and prosciutto in the carbonara, a decadent dish that probably should be enjoyed in moderation—if you can exercise restraint. But pacing yourself will pay off when it’s time for dessert, which is so good that it is worth coming to Luna Blu just for that. Go for the sophisticated zabaglione or classic tiramisu. Lunch offerings include a more modest pizza-and-sandwich menu. A bonus at this unpretentious place—children are welcome, and servers helpfully suggest a smaller $10 pasta portion for a child. It will provide enough for his dad’s lunch the next day. <em>36 West St., Annapolis, 410-267-9950</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://metropolitanannapolis.com/restaurant/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Metropolitan Kitchen &amp; Lounge</a></h4>
<p>This neighborhood hangout is known for hosting cover bands, tribute groups, and open mic nights—and the food is equally as appealing as the live entertainment. Worldly wines and craft cocktails (the &#8220;Suits and Ladders&#8221; fuses bourbon with aperol and honey) pair nicely with small plates and customizable charcuterie boards. There are also burgers, flatbreads, and plenty of larger entrees if you&#8217;re going the solo route. Sample standouts including cedar salmon, vegan jambalaya, and rockfish imperial with charred lemon beurre blanc. <em>175 West St. 410-280-5160</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://www.olearysseafood.com/home">O’Learys Seafood</a></h4>
<p>Insofar as “Annapolis seafood restaurant” usually signifies crab dip, crab soup, and, well, crabs, O’Learys breaks the mold. In a wood-beamed dining room that manages to exude buzz and calm at the same time, fish gets treatment that is refined but never fussy. “Close your eyes and point,” a waiter says when asked which appetizers are excellent, and so far he hasn’t been proven wrong. It’s hard to imagine doing better than two perfectly cooked, moist scallops bundled into phyllo and accented by pesto. There’s nothing innovative about the three preparations in the tuna trio—one seared piece, one pile of tartare tossed with soy, and one generous slab of sashimi—but the fish, impeccably fresh, needs no fireworks. (The silver chopsticks on the side are a lovely touch.) For entrées, it’s all about the extra details. A crispy rockfish is elevated by a tomato-cilantro salsa, sauteed shrimp, and chipotle aioli. The crab cakes are good in a city where they must be; one bite through to the bottom reveals they have been delightfully crisped, and you wonder why everybody doesn’t do that. Desserts deliver, too, especially a seasonal berry shortcake with fresh whipped cream. Two thoughts linger after you’re out the door: Why didn’t we order two slices, and when can we make reservations again? <em>310 Third St., Eastport, 410-263-0884</em></p>
<h4><a href="https://www.osteria177.com/">Osteria 177</a></h4>
<p>This luxurious Italian-Mediterranean restaurant—a sister-spot to Arturo’s Trattoria in Glen Burnie—inhabits a prime location on Main and Conduit streets in the heart of Annapolis. Opened in November 2006, its décor is reminiscent of a regal old New York restaurant with high ceilings and ample booths. Chandeliers glitter, original paintings hang from the walls, and angular, high-backed white chairs give the place a contemporary look. While it’s clear that chef/owner Arturo Ottaviano put a lot of thought into this décor, it’s even more apparent that tremendous effort goes into everything that comes out of the kitchen. From the classic calamari to a salad of shaved parmesan and bresaola (cured beef) with arugula, to the grilled salmon in a lemon-butter sauce, each dish is prepared with great skill and care. A duck breast in pear reduction and a veal chop stuffed with fontinella and prosciutto could not be more succulent. A buttery branzino, a Mediterranean sea bass, is cooked perfectly and expertly filleted at the table. Dinner includes fine Italian wines by the glass and continual refills of sparkling mineral water. A splendid meal with fine service ends with tiramisu, hiding delightful cherries in the bottom, and a lovely dark and white chocolate mousse. <em>177 Main St., 410-267-7700</em></p>
<h4><a href="https://www.paulshomewoodcafe.com/">Paul’s Homewood Cafe</a></h4>
<p>Paul’s Homewood Café is one Annapolis restaurant where you don’t go for the view. Unless, that is, you like to watch traffic whiz by on busy West Street and take in the gas station, transmission repair place, and bail bondsman’s office across the street. But do come for the food. Paul’s has been at this spot for 70 years, most of that time as a diner. After a recent renovation and expansion, however, Paul’s is a white-tablecloth restaurant at dinnertime and offers exquisite food, much of it Greek. While the décor is sleek and new, the menu leans to traditional dishes, such as lamb kebab, crab cakes, fish specials, pastas, a huge list of Greek appetizers and, of course, Greek salad. All are very good, as is the service. The manageable wine list features the products of what it describes as small and independent vintners. The bottles in racks and on shelves contribute to the attractive surroundings. There is a lot of bustle—the kitchen opens onto one dining room, which also includes the bar—a high table turnover, and, consequently, a parade of food being hurried to diners. Paul’s is quite busy, and we can see why. We are told there are a lot of regulars. But diners do not seem rushed. It’s a comfortable place to pause over a drink, savor your meal, and enjoy your coffee after some wonderful desserts. <em>919 West St., 410-267-7891</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://preserve-eats.com/">Preserve</a></h4>
<p>We won’t soon forget the palate-pleasing and fresh-breath-destroying meal we recently enjoyed at this 3-year-old treasure, and not just because the leftover kimchi we took home after dinner stunk up the car with the smell of garlic. As the name suggests, pickling is the not-so-secret weapon here, with husband-and-wife team Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman obsessively pickling the kimchi. Milder than many Asian versions we’ve tried, it’s just as flavorful, and it makes a perfect appetizer, side, or snack. Indeed, pickled pleasures are used throughout the small-but-bold menu. Curtido, a Salvadorian-style fermented cabbage, goes perfectly with Relajo sausage and grain pasta, one of a dozen starters. Kimchi spices the broth in the gnocchi; dill pickles are served with the exquisitely prepared rockfish; pickled onions grace the glazed beef rice bowl. Preserve sells pickled goods in jars, too, so your vehicle’s new-car smell will be safe. <em>164 Main St. 443-598-6920</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://www.reynoldstavern.org/">Reynolds Tavern</a></h4>
<p>Eclectic<br />
The elegant dining rooms in one of the town’s oldest buildings remind you why you’re in the Colonial capital—to get a taste of its charms. It’s all about capturing the grandeur of the past in an authentic setting. And what better way to savor the experience than with an English tea. There are several choices, including afternoon tea (an assortment of sweet and savory nibbles), champagne tea (a glass of bubbly and chocolate-covered strawberries with the afternoon tea), and high tea (choice of soup, salad, or quiche with tea). The treats with the tea are hit and miss—lemon squares, mushroom tarts, macaroons, and cucumber sandwiches are dainty and delicious; but the quiche Lorraine was too soggy and the scones too dry on one visit. The tavern also has lunch (such as turkey Reuben and crab cake sandwich) and dinner (including Cajun shrimp and steak frites) if you want to go a more traditional route. <em>7 Church Circle, 410-295-9555</em></p>

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			<h4><a href="https://www.severninn.com/">Severn Inn </a></h4>
<p>Take in postcard vistas of Annapolis, the Naval Academy, and the Severn River while enjoying fine dining and a great wine list at this longtime favorite. Consisting of small plates, raw bar favorites, salads, steaks, and seafood, the menu is ideal for any occasion. Start things off with tuna poke or grilled sourdough toast topped with avocado, radish, sesame oil, and lemon aioli. Appetizers for the table (a crowd-pleasing sampler features sweet chili wings, yucca tots, and deviled eggs) are also plentiful. Entrees include Maryland favorites like fried chicken with Chesapeake white sauce, South Carolina wreckfish with corn cream and sauteed baby kale, and stellar surf and turf. During the warmer months, grab a seat on the outdoor deck to watch the sunset over the river while sipping a sweet Orange Crush. <em>1993 Baltimore Annapolis Blvd. 410-349-4000</em></p>
<h4><a href="https://www.historicinnsofannapolis.com/dining.aspx">Treaty of Paris Restaurant</a></h4>
<p>The Treaty of Paris Restaurant at the Maryland Inn is surely a contender for the capital’s most romantic dining room with its fireplaces, toile drapes, crisp white linens, and subtle lighting reminiscent of the days when America’s forefathers supped there. On a weekend evening not in high tourist season, the Treaty of Paris was sadly underutilized. Nothing in our experience there warranted a lack of diners. In addition to beautiful surroundings, the restaurant offers friendly and attentive service, and a traditional menu excellently prepared and reasonably priced. The popovers that spill from the breadbasket are a stand out, crusty on the outside, warm and soft inside. The menu is filled with Maryland favorites—crab cakes, rockfish, salmon, shrimp, and steak. The two crab cakes are light and flavorful, broiled as ordered without being dry. The rockfish served over braised spinach in a light white sauce is a thoroughly satisfying combination. Our meal is leisurely, capped by desserts made in house: crème brûlée and chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream. Tradition has its virtues, and Treaty of Paris seems to be mining the feel and flavor of a bygone era for the benefit of the here and now. More people should partake. <em>Maryland Inn, 16 Church Circle, 410-216-6340</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://tsunamiannapolis.com/">Tsunami<br /></a></h4>
<p>The best part about this hip Annapolis restaurant is how it lives up to its concept of Asian fusion cuisine—that “East meets West” marriage of unlikely ingredients, flavors, and cooking styles. In what otherwise is a slightly cramped, noisy restaurant, where the large light globes are turned down so low it’s hard to read the menu, the food and service deserve their own spotlight. A generous appetizer of popcorn-sized fried shrimp is transformed in an addictive Japanese tempura batter, while spring rolls are stuffed with avocado and ginger soy. Appetizers come with an unannounced bonus of crisp salads of greens and curlicues of raw beets and carrots in lime dressing. Bibb tacos are filled with lobster and miso butter, while wok-seared scallops sit on watercress with orange and vanilla salt and pepper. Generous desserts include bananas fried in thin, crispy lumpia wrappers (think egg roll), served with ice cream infused with a subtle ginger flavor. A delicious lychee sorbet disappears too fast as it melts into a fruity lime soup. You can’t get more exotic than that, just two blocks from the Maryland State House. <em>51 West St., 410-990-9868</em></p>
<h4><a href="http://vin909.com/">Vin 909</a></h4>
<p>Italian<br />
The word “charming” comes to mind as you enter this cozy cottage-cum-wine bar that’s in the Annapolis area, though it’s well worth a visit whatever county you’re coming from. Inexpensive glasses of wine are the focal point here, but the brick-oven pizza, hearty meatball sandwiches, and, when last we visited, a seasonal dish of clams with pumpkin in curry cream broth also deserve top billing. This hideaway is the perfect place for a first date—or 100th date. When we went, we took barstools at the open kitchen next to a regular who told us he eats there at least three times a week. It can be a challenge to get a table at this no-reservations restaurant, so we suggest going for lunch—the menu is no different than at dinner. Just beware the boat shows! <em>909 Bay Ridge Ave. 410-990-1846</em></p>
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		<title>Review: Highland Inn</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/we-review-the-highland-inn/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Jul 2014 08:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Highland]]></category>
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			<p><strong>Eager diners in Howard County </strong>must have breathed a sigh of relief when Brian Boston’s Highland Inn finally opened in January, and Boston, co-owner and executive chef of the highly successful The Milton Inn, must have been pretty gratified, too. It’s been five years since Boston conceived of opening an upscale, but casual, dining destination in restaurant-starved southern Howard County. Numerous bureaucratic hurdles, two canceled openings, and $4 million in renovations later, the restaurant, housed in a lovingly restored 1890s farmhouse on a rural corner, is up and running at last. So . . . was it worth the wait? Highland Inn’s pastoral setting and historic look are certainly a plus. On a chilly Saturday evening in late April, the outdoor dining terrace overlooking an idyllic meadow wasn’t open yet, but the handsomely appointed upstairs dining room (with a second one on the terrace level) was buzzing with equally well-turned-out diners. Boston, an accomplished equestrian, has chosen an array of hunt-country themed paintings by Owings Mills artist Sam Robinson to decorate the walls, while brightly colored murals of jockeys on horseback by the same artist grace the far end of the room. The mural lends a fun, casual vibe to the white-tablecloth formality of the space, a mix the menu strives to achieve as well.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Boston aimed to create a venue that, unlike The Milton Inn, won’t be reserved mostly for special occasions. Although the price point is higher than what you might expect for everyday dining, the offerings are less elaborate here in order to showcase the pure flavors of local, seasonal ingredients. Chef Mark C. Davis, who was there on our first visit but has since left the inn, created a roster of approachable entrees, with some inventive appetizers thrown in for good measure. Wilbur Cox Jr. of B&#038;O American Brasserie was at the helm on our second go-round and did not disappoint, though we’re told he will add his own touches to the table. The menu is designed to appeal to a fairly wide swath of diners, and mostly, it works quite well.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>The menu is designed to appeal to a fairly wide swath of diners, and mostly, it works quite well.</h2>
<p>There were so many appealing choices on the list of appetizers that decision-making was the most arduous task of the evening. Should we pick a classic like the clams casino (a Milton Inn standard) or go for something novel like the avocado-green pea-asparagus dip? In the end, we chose well. A plate of seared scallops was a deliciously gorgeous contrast of colors and flavors, the fat scallops atop translucent pink rounds of beet “carpaccio,” the plate streaked with ruby red beet “mustard” and contrasting wilted greens. The crispy pork belly with PB&#038;J was, frankly, spectacular. What’s not to like about peanut-crusted pork belly, its unctuous richness leavened by the sweetness of spiced apple butter and earthy pistachio butter? The Hudson Valley <em>foie gras</em> was slightly less successful. A luxury item like this needs to be treated gently, but ours had been seared a bit too much, lending a bitter edge to the delicate morsel.&nbsp;</p>

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			<p>Among the entrees, there really wasn’t a false note. Entrees are an assortment of standard offerings&mdash;dry-aged pork chops, corn-dusted rockfish, and rack of lamb&mdash;dressed up with nicely prepared sides and sauces. The kitchen is focused on execution rather than flash, as with the herb-brined roast chicken, which was a crisp-skinned bird cooked to juicy perfection and excellent braised kale served on the side. Perfectly cooked, too, was the New York strip, medium-rare, as specified, and sided with a layered square of pavé potatoes and grilled asparagus. It’s always nice to see seriously large shrimp in a dish of shrimp and grits, and Highland Inn’s were not only jumbo, but also generously portioned. The grits almost outshone them, though, with their bits of pork belly and creamy texture. We couldn’t discern any of the advertised lobster within, but they were addictive anyway. Other menu highlights include crispy-skinned Irish trout on a bed of English pea emulsion.</p>
<p>You won’t find any elaborate or fancy creations on the dessert menu here. On offer are usual suspects like crème brûlée, carrot cake, a chocolate torte, and several flavors of Häagen Dazs ice cream. (We’re always curious as to why anyone would choose an $8 dish of ice cream you can buy by the pint at half the price.) Our party&mdash;weight watchers all&mdash;split the vanilla crème brûlée, properly creamy beneath its crackling top, and called it a night.</p>
<p>All in all, everything is in place for Highland Inn’s success. We were pleased to see reasonably priced wines on the extensive wine list, and our friendly waitress was helpful throughout the meal, recommending her favorites dishes. The only impediment we can see to the inn’s status as a mainstay of Howard County casual dining is that less-than-casual price point. Dinner here is expensive, albeit not as pricey as Brian Boston’s The Milton Inn. That said, there are more than enough solid qualities here to reward diners seeking a pleasant evening out, special occasion or not.&nbsp;</p>
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<p><a href="http://www.highlandinnrestaurant.com/">HIGHLAND INN</a> 12857 Highland Road, Highland, 443-276-3202.&nbsp;<br /><strong>HOURS</strong>&nbsp;Dinner: 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 5-9:30 p.m. Sat., 4-8&nbsp;p.m.&nbsp;Sun.&nbsp;<br /><strong>CUISINE&nbsp;</strong>Contemporary American.&nbsp;<br /><strong>PRICE&nbsp;</strong>Appetizers: $7-21; entrees: $18-48; desserts: $8-15.&nbsp;<br /><strong>ATMOSPHERE</strong>&nbsp;Upscale, yet laid-back dining in an appealing 1890s Howard County farmhouse.</p>

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		<title>Then and Now: Baltimore&#8217;s Dining Scene</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/then-and-now-baltimores-dining-scene/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 May 2014 08:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[history]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Then and Now]]></category>
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			<p>Let’s just say you were to enter a typical Baltimore restaurant circa 1961. Cocktails would be had before dinner: a martini for him, maybe a Tom Collins for her. The first course would come out, a bowl of iceberg lettuce doused in bright-orange French dressing, followed by cream-of-crab soup. Her main course might be crab imperial, drenched in a rich cream sauce laced with Sherry. He would order a steak&mdash;well done, of course&mdash;with a baked potato topped with sour cream and butter. The accompanying vegetables might come from a can. For dessert? Ice cream sundaes or perhaps a slice of pie.</p>
<p>Oh, the olden days. A lot has changed since then. We’ve become more health conscious, more aware of global cuisine, and there have been several food revolutions along the way. It was the ’90s&mdash;and something called New American cuisine&mdash;that really changed the way we ate. In truth, that simply meant adding a twist to a conventional dish. For example, it was somewhat radical when chef Cindy Wolf served a grilled chicken breast with pickled peaches and black beans at her restaurant Savannah, which opened in Fells Point in 1995. (Wow. She was certainly ahead of today’s pickling craze.) Over at Spike &#038; Charlie’s, which opened four years earlier in 1991, chef Spike Gjerde dressed up a butterflied lamb chop with cannellini beans and fresh plum tomatoes (no tin-tasting canned ones for him). It was revelatory.</p>
<p>In a recent interview with <a href="http://firstweeat.com">firstweeat.com</a>, Gjerde recalled making a ratatouille pizza at Spike &#038; Charlie’s: “We cooked each finely diced vegetable individually, crumbled local goat cheese over it, and put it in the wood-burning oven. It was my first stab at something original.”</p>
<p>We take those additions for granted now. But that was before ratatouille was the name of a popular Pixar film. In fact, many Baltimoreans didn’t know what it was. It was quite bold to douse eggplant with balsamic vinegar before grilling as Gjerde did then. Most restaurants today serve this type of cuisine, with more reliance on the freshest and most local ingredients possible. Many grow their own vegetables, whether they’re tomatoes in container pots on outdoor patios or, like the newest juggernaut, Bagby Restaurant Group, from its own Cockeysville farm for its cadre of restaurants, including Fleet Street Kitchen in Harbor East and Cunningham’s in Towson.</p>
<p>Of course, a lot of other culinary influences were taking place in the pivotal ’90s. We traveled more, exposing us to varied cuisines. The Food Network created a big interest in cooking and chefs. More ingredients were available. And, really, our taste buds were becoming more sophisticated, as David Kamp points out in his excellent book, <em>The United States of Arugula</em>. Suddenly, iceberg was the pariah of the lettuce family.</p>
<p>(Ironically, many of those preparations have come back in vogue. A wedge of iceberg with blue-cheese dressing and crumbled bacon is considered charmingly retro.)</p>
<p>When you look back, there were far fewer restaurants in the ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s. And, in true Baltimore fashion, we were loyal to our favorites, tending to latch onto an eating place until the aging owners, beaten down by the 24/7 grind, gave up and retired&mdash;Martick’s Restaurant Francais, Caesar’s Den, and Hersh’s Orchard Inn, to name a few.</p>
<p>For various reasons, we’ve lost many icons over the decades, including popular grand dames like Marconi’s, Haussner’s, Danny’s, Connolly’s, Miller Brothers, and Chesapeake Restaurant. Some, like the Chesapeake, have been re-invented into more casual affairs. It’s always nice to see a comeback, as we have for Peerce’s (now The Grille at Peerce’s) in Phoenix, Manor Tavern in Monkton, and the recently opened The Valley Inn in Brooklandville. </p>
<p>We’re still Crabtown, hon&mdash;except now we have many other options available. In a 2006 interview with<em> Baltimore</em> magazine, Afghan Qayum Karzai of The Helmand said, “Baltimore is becoming more cosmopolitan in what it accepts, in terms of food and different cuisines from various countries.”</p>
<p>In the same story, Joey Chiu, who operated the long-running and now defunct Bamboo House and, currently, his eponymous Greenspring Inn, concurred. “Now, more people in Baltimore eat out. Besides Chinese food, more and more people like sushi.”</p>
<p>That wasn’t always the case. Chiu recalled that in the late ’80s when he first offered the now ubiquitous fish-rice rolls, “People would say, ‘Ewww’ . . . People have become more educated.” </p>
<p>Now, it’s not unusual to find Asian fusion at many mainstream restaurants or events. For instance, chef Chris Becker, chief operations officer for the Bagby group, makes a great pork-belly steam bun. And Cyrus Keefer of The Fork &#038; Wrench in Canton is known for infusing ingredients like yuzu powder and shochu into his dishes. </p>
<p>These days, most chefs like changing up their cooking style. Recently, Chad Gauss of The Food Market created a Mexican-inspired pop-up with dishes like smoked-trout taquitos, shrimp a la plancha, and rib-eye <em>vieja</em>. With our growing Latino population, it’s easy to find the real deal north of Broadway and Eastern Avenue. But it’s a cuisine that’s finding an inspired niche in Fells Point, including Charlie Gjerde’s new taco joint, Papi’s; Willow (by Stuggy’s owners); and the upcoming Barcocina in the old Shuckers space. </p>
<p>While we have many more diverse ethnic choices than we did when the MTV generation was born&mdash;from Lebanese and Persian to Thai and Korean&mdash;Italian has always been a mainstay. In fact, if it wasn’t for Aldo’s Ristorante Italiano in Little Italy, actor Chazz Palminteri of The Bronx Tale might not have considered locating his first restaurant in Baltimore. But he connected with Aldo’s Vitale family, and, before you knew it, they were partners in Chazz: A Bronx Original, which opened in Harbor East in 2011. Palmintieri is a frequent visitor at the restaurant.</p>
<p>But it’s safe to say that chefs Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen and Cindy Wolf of Charleston were the true torchbearers. (But even they probably didn’t guess that they both would be 2014 James Beard Award finalists in the Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic category. The winner will be announced on May 5.) </p>
<p>The chefs’ early efforts certainly paved the gustatory way for creative takes on cuisine in Baltimore by the likes of Ted Stelzenmuller of Jack’s Bistro (chocolate mac and cheese, sous vide), Jason Ambrose of Salt (duck-fat fries, Kobe beef sliders), and Joe Edwardsen of Joe Squared (gourmet coal-fired square pizza).</p>
<p>Baltimore also got a big bump on the national culinary scene when award-winning chef Michael Mina, who runs almost two dozen restaurants around the country, opened Wit &#038; Wisdom: A Tavern by Michael Mina and Pabu at the Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore. We’re also expecting actor Woody Harrelson’s recent acquisition of the Inn at the Black Olive with the rooftop Olive Room restaurant to create a stir in the world beyond the Susquehanna.</p>
<p>It’s exciting not because we have stars in our eyes. We’re thrilled because Baltimore deserves recognition as a food town. Spike and Cindy have been admirable ambassadors through their cooking and previous James Beard nominations prior to this year. But we also know it takes a village of chefs to put Baltimore on the national dining map. And we’re definitely on it.</p>

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		<title>The French Kitchen Elevates Hotel Dining</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/the-french-kitchen-elevates-hotel-dining/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Apr 2014 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chefs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jordan Miller]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lord Baltimore Hotel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The French Kitchen]]></category>
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			<p>We refused to be deterred by the dismantled lobby obviously going through a makeover. Persevering to the right and heading up a short flight of stairs, we soon entered a two-story-high dining room that left us gasping at its opulence. With its dreamy cornflower-blue walls, gilded trim, chandeliers dripping crystals, tropical palm plumage, and elegant candelabra-topped tables, we felt like we’d stepped into Versailles. The luxe space is decidedly anachronistic amid today’s no-nonsense industrial, brick-walled eating spaces. But the fancy décor works at The French Kitchen at Lord Baltimore Hotel. The dining room is inside the stately hotel, which opened in 1928 and was the largest hotel in Maryland at one time. Myriad years and owners later, the French renaissance landmark is once again reliving its glory days with a massive renovation from top to bottom. The French Kitchen is one of its centerpieces.</p>
<p>It even impressed its executive chef, Jordan Miller, who opened The Chesapeake in the Station North Arts and Entertainment District last year and has cooked at restaurants across the nation. “When I was looking for a new place to land, the dining room was a selling point for me,” he says. “It’s a pleasure to work here.” </p>
<p>The restaurant isn’t just about appearances. The thoughtful menu, with a dozen entrees, reflects the culture of its location with classical and updated French fare. You’ll find bistro staples like a croque-madame sandwich (that’s the one with the fried egg), an omelet, and a quiche of the day, as well as heartier plates like steak frites, duck, and fish (monkfish, the night we visited).</p>
<p>Miller creates deconstructed-style dishes that are layered, shaped, and stacked into artistic wonders. While the boeuf bourguignon may not be Julia Child’s excellent stew-like version, Miller’s showcases a succulent short rib atop a pool of rich burgundy sauce surrounded by colorful root vegetables as pretty as a Cézanne still life. </p>
<p>“I’m taking classic preparations and flavors and then cleaning them up a bit,” Miller says. “We’re also doing old school like coq au vin and pot-au-feu.”<br />But before we got to our main meals, an aromatic bread basket with house-made baguette slices and boules (there’s a baker and pastry chef in the kitchen) was delivered to our table with condiments like in-house cured olives and a tangy orange marmalade—a welcome rustic offering in the cavernous room dotted with banquettes, bare wood tables, and plush seating. </p>

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			<p>Even though our waitress was new to the restaurant that very<br />
night—struggling to remember specials and having to go to the kitchen to<br />
 talk to the chef—we were well cared for. It undoubtedly helped that we<br />
were the only patrons in the dining room until the end of our dinner<br />
when a few stragglers arrived. Given the deliciousness of our meal, we<br />
hope more people will be attracted to the restaurant’s charms. Hotel<br />
management even offers discounted valet parking to entice guests.</p>
<p>For<br />
 starters, we sampled a traditional onion soup that had depth and scored<br />
 points for cleverness. The Comté cheese was melted on top of a toasted<br />
baguette slice to avoid the annoying strings of cheese that often make<br />
eating the broth a challenge. We also enjoyed a stunningly beautiful<br />
beet salad featuring several preparations, including roasted, pickled,<br />
puréed, and raw with pecans and fresh cheese. </p>
<p>We really liked<br />
 the salmon appetizer, too. The fish was cured with fennel and dressed<br />
with dill, crème fraîche, potatoes, and an everything-bagel tuile, all<br />
assembled in a carefully composed tableau.</p>
<p>There is also<br />
charcuterie and beef tartare to kick off your meal and salads like<br />
roasted vegetable, frisée with bacon, and a niçoise with tuna, olives,<br />
egg, tomato, and beans.</p>
<p>Our lamb entree was another<br />
picture-perfect dish. The medium-rare chops were adorned with carrots,<br />
rutabaga, and greens. And shades of molecular gastronomy. Was that foam<br />
on the plate? Very avant-garde for Baltimore. Our scallops were fat,<br />
glazed spheres dressed with frisée, potatoes, beets, and apples in a<br />
successful combination.</p>
<p>The wines, as you might expect, are<br />
French—from a lovely Domaine de Orgnes Côtes du Rhône to a crisp Mont<br />
Gravet Côtes de Gascogne Blanc—with bottles priced from $20-76 and by<br />
the glass from $7-12.   </p>
<p>We wrapped up our meal with<br />
profiteroles and a chocolate mousse. Both were fine, but the one we’re<br />
still talking about is the popcorn ice cream. Its silky, buttery texture<br />
 and flavor captured the snack in a wonderfully unexpected way.<br />For a<br />
 less formal setting, Lord Baltimore Hotel also has LB Tavern in the<br />
lobby with LB Bakery opening soon. This venerable property has<br />
transformed itself into a delightful food destination, even if you’re<br />
not staying in one of the 440 rooms. </p>

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		<title>In the kitchen with Wire actor Maria Broom</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/in-the-kitchen-with-wire-actor-maria-broom/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Jan 2014 10:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cooking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[in the kitchen with]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Maria Broom]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recipes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Wire]]></category>
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			<p>	With leather bracelets from India adorning each ankle, Maria Broom<br />
sits at her kitchen table as she talks about her 64 years of<br />
gallivanting across the globe. “I’ve been to the continent of Africa at<br />
least eight times,” says the Windsor Mill resident. “I’ve been to India<br />
four times. I’ve been to Czechoslovakia and Poland four times, and I<br />
spent a year in Germany, a year in Hawaii, a year in Tennessee, and a<br />
year in L.A.” Her brief time as a flight attendant actually spurred her<br />
interest in cooking. But all roads have returned her to Baltimore. “I<br />
always come back here,” she says.</p>
<p>	Broom’s peripatetic career path has had many incarnations—including roles on <em>The Wire and Homicide: Life on the Street</em>,<br />
 a four-year stint as a WJZ consumer reporter (working alongside an<br />
ingénue named Oprah Winfrey), and as an accomplished storyteller who<br />
performs locally. But her primary passion is dance, which she currently<br />
teaches at the Baltimore School for the Arts.</p>
<p>	A trip to see <em>Ballet Russes de Monte Carlo</em> at the Lyric at<br />
age six gave her direction. “I remember thinking, ‘Those are my<br />
people,’” she says. “‘That’s where I need to be.’”</p>
<p>	Broom studied dance while at Morgan State University and won a<br />
Fulbright scholarship to Germany in the early ’70s. When her studies<br />
ended, she had a change of heart about dancing. World travel beckoned,<br />
especially after she watched a flight attendant give instructions in<br />
different languages while en route back home.</p>
<p>	“I thought, ‘I can do that—I can do it in French, I can do it in<br />
German, and if I hear it enough, I can do it in Spanish,’” she says.</p>
<p>	When she got home, she headed to New York and interviewed with Pan<br />
Am. They offered her a job based in Miami. But she got more than she<br />
bargained for.</p>
<p>	“In those days, there were real meals being served, and you had to<br />
cook,” she says, laughing at the memory. “We actually had to preheat<br />
these ovens and ask the people in first class, ‘How would you like your<br />
steak? Rare or medium rare,’ and thenyou had to remember that the person<br />
 in 3F wanted it well-done. It was the perfect job for a year.”</p>
<p>	These days, Broom is happy to be back on<em> terra firma</em> in her<br />
own country kitchen, where she loves to put together a meal. “I am an<br />
intuitive cook,” says Broom, who enjoys making stir-fry. “When I became a<br />
 vegetarian in 1976, so much of it was trial and error. I went through a<br />
 lot of tofu in those early years.”</p>
<p>	While her life has led her in many directions, Broom finds it’s a<br />
small world after all. “The older adults know me from my<br />
consumer-reporter days, the middle-aged adults know me from teaching<br />
their children, and now the younger adults know me as Miss Maria who<br />
comes to their classroom and performs,” she says. “I feel like the<br />
village’s favorite daughter!”</p>
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			<h4><img decoding="async" alt="" style="width: 338px; float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px;" src="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/cq8a3416.jpg">Miss Maria&#8217;s Veggie Stir-Fry</h4>
<p>	<strong>INGREDIENTS</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>
	2 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter)</li>
<li>
	1 medium organic sweet onion, diced</li>
<li>
	1 medium organic red pepper, seeded and sliced thinly</li>
<li>
	2 cups organic broccoli florets</li>
<li>
	1 cup organic portobella or shiitake mushrooms, cut into large dice</li>
<li>
	2 garlic cloves, crushed</li>
<li>
	1 teaspoon cumin</li>
<li>
	2 teaspoons curry</li>
<li>
	2 teaspoons maple syrup</li>
<li>
	3 cups organic brown basmati rice, cooked according to package directions</li>
</ul>
<p>	<strong>DIRECTIONS</strong> </p>
<ul>
<li>
	In a large skillet, add 1 tablespoon ghee, and melt on low-medium heat.</li>
<li>
	Add onion, and sauté for 10 minutes or until translucent.</li>
<li>
	Add peppers and broccoli florets, and sauté for two to three minutes.</li>
<li>
	Add mushrooms and garlic and sauté with other vegetables for an additional two minutes.</li>
<li>
	In a small saucepan, melt remaining tablespoon of ghee over low-medium heat.</li>
<li>
	Add cumin, curry, and maple syrup, and stir until sauce forms a paste.</li>
<li>
	Add paste to vegetables.</li>
<li>Stir. Serve over rice. Serves 4.</li>
</ul>

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		<title>More Restaurants Open for Thanksgiving Day</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/more-restaurants-open-for-thanksgiving-day/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Nov 2013 14:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dick’s Last Resort]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Grille 700]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[holidays]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Maryland Live! Casino]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Thanksgiving]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Manor Tavern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Oregon Grille]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Prime Rib]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[Additional area restaurants are scheduled to be open on Thanksgiving day. Be sure to view our extended list for a complete selection.&#160; —Dick’s Last Resort, Inner Harbor: In honor of the Baltimore Ravens taking on the Pittsburgh Steelers, Dick’s will be open from 11 a.m. until whenever the party stops. Tailgate items include gator bites, &#8230; <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/more-restaurants-open-for-thanksgiving-day/">Continued</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Additional area restaurants are scheduled to be open on Thanksgiving day. Be sure to view our extended list for a complete selection.&nbsp;</p>
<p>—<a href="http://www.dickslastresort.com/domains/Baltimore/">Dick’s Last Resort</a>, Inner Harbor: In honor of the Baltimore Ravens taking on the Pittsburgh Steelers, Dick’s will be open from 11 a.m. until whenever the party stops. Tailgate items include gator bites, wings, and a slice of pumpkin pie, which are available to go. Happy hour from 4-7 p.m. features $3 house liquor, $2.50 domestic bottles and pints, $4 margaritas, and select appetizers for $5. Enter in the&nbsp; Thanksgiving pie-eating contest for a chance to win a $100 Dick’s gift certificate.</p>
<p>—<a href="http://www.marriottmodules.com/restaurant/hotels/hotel-information/travel/bwiwf-marriott-baltimore-waterfront-hotel/grille_700">Grille 700 at the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront</a>, Inner Harbor: Traditional Thanksgiving buffet served from 11 a.m.-2 p.m., $24 per person. Menu items include carved turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes, vegetables, and mini desserts in addition to the regular breakfast buffet. Reservations required.</p>
<p>—<a href="http://www.themanortavern.com">The Manor Tavern</a>, Monkton: Traditional Thanksgiving buffet with seating at 12 p.m., 2:30 p.m., and 5 p.m. The menu includes Caesar salad, cornbread muffins, turkey, brown-sugar ham, caramelized-onion prime rib au jus, mini crab cakes, sweet potatoes, Yukon mashed potatoes, green beans, pumpkin pie, and assorted cheesecakes. Adults, $38; children (3-12), $15; under age 3, free. Reservations required.</p>
<p>—<a href="http://www.marylandlivecasino.com/dining/">Maryland Live! Casino, </a>Hanover: A fall heritage buffet featuring traditional Thanksgiving favorites in addition to offerings from the snow-crab-and-seafood menu; $35 per person plus tax and gratuity. Seating is on a first-come, first-serve basis, 11:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m., 5-9:30 p.m.</p>
<p>—<a href="http://www.theoregongrille.com">The Oregon Grille</a>, Hunt Valley: Full regular menu and a three-course Thanksgiving dinner, 1-8 p.m. Offerings include butternut-squash bisque or beef-barley soup, fresh-roasted turkey, sausage dressing, cranberry, whipped potatoes, yams, baby zucchini, maple-apple cheesecake, and pecan pie. Adults, $49; children (12 and under), $32.&nbsp;</p>
<p>—<a href="http://www.marylandlivecasino.com/dining/the-prime-rib/">The Prime Rib at Maryland Live! Casino</a>, Hanover: Regular menu plus a three-course “prix-fixe fall heritage menu,” 5:30-10:30 p.m. First-course options include roasted butternut-squash soup, mizuna-and-butter-lettuce salad, or oysters on the half shell; entrees are herb-roasted heritage turkey or butter-poached cod loin; sides are oyster stuffing, black-truffle mashed potatoes, and sautéed green beans with crispy leaks. Each course is paired with a glass of Roederer Brut or George Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau. Desserts include pumpkin cheesecake, a caramel-pecan bar with pumpkin ice cream, and a 16-layer chocolate cake with eggnog ice cream. Reservations recommended, $75 per person plus tax and gratuity.&nbsp;</p>
<p><em>—Danielle Moore</em></p>

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		<title>Steve DeCastro&#8217;s New Restaurant</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/steve-decastros-new-restaurant/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Apr 2004 10:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[News & Community]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Baltimore]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dinner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Steve de Castro]]></category>
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			<p>It’s shortly before Christmas, and the heat’s off in the vast space that once housed Red Coral, a shuttered Asian restaurant and dance club in the Power Plant Live! complex. But it’s not just the temperature that provokes a chill. The carpet is torn and stained; ceiling tiles are discolored and smudged; bare patches of white are visible on the red walls where large TV screens once hung. In the back, the 86 board—there to tell servers which menu items are out of stock—still hangs, and scrawled in green marker are just two words: THE RESTAURANT.</p>
<p>Into this wasteland steps Steve de Castro, owner of the neighboring Ruth’s Chris Steak House and three others, as well as Eurasian Harbor and Babalu Grill. Wearing black slacks and a white dress shirt opened to the third button, he doesn’t even see the 86 board as he strides through the place—his place now, the site of his newest restaurant, the Blue Sea Grill. Light catches and refracts off the diamonds in his ring as his hands gesture expansively. “It’s gonna be beautiful,” he says. “The best seafood in Maryland.”</p>
<p>Trust him: The place is gonna be <em>hot</em>.</p>
<p>“The best seafood in Maryland.”&nbsp;</p>
<p>It’s a bold declaration in a state whose identity is largely defined by the bounty of its bay waters. But Steve de Castro has spent his life bucking the odds. When he was a 14-year-old kid newly fled from 1960s Cuba, washing dishes in a New Orleans restaurant, you’d have bet against him becoming the restaurant’s manager. And once he did so (at age 17), you’d have bet against him opening his own restaurant just six years later.</p>
<p>Well, okay, you’d have won that bet: The restaurant quickly failed. But that left him available to meet a tough little lady name Ruth Fertel, owner of Ruth’s Chris Steak Houses, who happened to be looking for a manager. De Castro proved to be a valuable asset for Fertel—so valuable that when she needed someone to take over her poorly performing Washington, D.C. steakhouse, she trusted him with the difficult task.</p>
<p>One problem: De Castro didn’t want to move, and neither did his wife, Darlene. So the two came up with a plan: Steve would tell Fertel that he was willing to go, but only if she agreed to a list of demands too preposterous for her to ever accept. He went to her office and handed her the list, confident that he’d just guaranteed himself permanent residency in Louisiana.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Fertel looked at the list, then at him. “All right,” she said finally. “You have one week to be in Washington.”</p>
<p>“I didn’t believe it,” he says now. “I was sure she would never let me go with that list.”</p>
<p>De Castro moved East in 1985 and went right to work, cleaning house and firing most of the staff. “Within a year, we went from the worst-performing Ruth’s Chris to the best,” he says.&nbsp;</p>
<p>In 1992, de Castro got the chance to open his own Ruth’s Chris in nearby Baltimore. That was followed by a host of other restaurants and clubs, all held by his Big Steaks Management, LLC, which is housed in his Pikesville Ruth’s Chris. Now, he says, “I am from Maryland. This is my home.”</p>
<p>And so now he’s gunning for one of the most competitive markets in the Maryland restaurant industry: seafood. This new concept, Blue Sea Grill, will feature raw oysters, fresh fish, and crab imperial, in an area already chockablock with high-end seafood restaurants, the Inner Harbor. Is it possible that de Castro has bitten off more than he can chew?</p>
<p>Marcia Harris, president of the Restaurant Association of Maryland, chuckles at the question. “I wouldn’t bet against him,” she says.</p>
<p>The day before New Year’s Eve, the future Blue Sea smells like paint and sawdust. The carpeting has been pulled up, primer laid on some walls, and a single sky-blue patch of ceiling hints at the transformation to come. De Castro and architect Tim Kearney of Alliance Architecture are staring at what will be the entryway to the restaurant, now just a chest-high length of drywall that ends in a square column going up to the ceiling. The column’s the problem: It shoots up square in the middle of the view of the outside windows. De Castro wants it to line up with the outer window’s frames, which means moving the column a foot and a half to the right. Which means money. <em>More</em> money.</p>
<p>De Castro also wants glass doors at the entrance. “It’s the <em>entrance</em>,” he says, waving a cigar in one hand. “It’s the first thing you see.”</p>
<p>“Hey, you don’t have to convince me that this looks better,” says Kearney, gesturing to his hastily sketched revision of the entryway. But there’s the money: not much more than $300 to move the column, but then the extra glass. . . .&nbsp;</p>
<p>Steve stares at the entryway intently, takes a puff on the cigar. “Let’s do it,” he says.</p>
<p>Then it’s back to the architectural renderings spread across the bar, which wobbles from being cut in half in preparation for an expansion to make room for the raw bar. Suddenly, a loud salsa tune bursts out: de Castro’s cell. It’s someone from the Ravens—de Castro is a big football fan, regularly attending the Super Bowl (he even flew with the Ravens to Miami for their game there this past season).</p>
<p>“How about the field passes?” he asks. “I’d like to have six.”</p>
<p>Then back to the plans. De Castro has a woman from Ruth’s Chris come over to make copies of Kearney’s sketch.</p>
<p>“How many reservations do we have?” he asks her, meaning for New Year’s Eve. The answer: 797.</p>
<p>“We’ll probably get another 100,” he shoots back. “Another 103.”</p>
<p>For the last 11 years, de Castro has spent New Year’s Eve in Baltimore, dashing between his various restaurants, always winding up at the downtown Ruth’s Chris for midnight. But this year, he’ll spend it in Atlantic City, where his new Babalu Grill opened just the week before. That’s just the beginning—his goal is to open two new restaurants a year for the foreseeable future.</p>
<p>That Atlantic City job was a real teeth-clencher, right down the wire. “I didn’t get the liquor license till 6 p.m. the night I opened,” he says, laughing. “I’m surprised I still have hair.”</p>
<p>That’s not going to happen with Blue Sea, he says. This time, he’s going to—</p>
<p>That salsa tune again; this time, it’s someone from Big Steaks. “When does he need to know?” de Castro asks. The answer clearly displeases him. “No,” he snaps. “You tell him he’ll have to wait till tomorrow. I can’t make a $30,000 decision in one second.”</p>
<p>Time to check out the kitchen. De Castro’s questioning the location of the icemaker, and disgusted by the cracked cement floor. “It looks like <em>caca</em>,” he says.</p>
<p>Then he’s checking the vent hoods, and electrical outlets, and an automated system that regularly changes the oil in the fryers. De Castro’s worked pretty much every position a restaurant has, and it shows. Hearing of the oil system, he nods in approval as his nose wrinkles at the memory of an unpleasant chore. “Changing the oil, who likes to do that?” he says.</p>
<p>A week later, Blue Sea is filled with men: men climbing up scaffolding, men cutting boards with a power saw, men rolling paint onto walls. The spicy earth tones of Red Coral are gone; in their place is, indeed, a sea of blue: aqua, cobalt, indigo, sky . . . and, in one incongruous patch, lime green.&nbsp;</p>
<p>De Castro is appalled. “This color has to go!” he all but shouts, pointing emphatically with one finger as his head swings around to look at Kearney, who doesn’t look exactly happy himself.&nbsp;</p>
<p>“They must have made a mistake,” he says.</p>
<p>Normally, paint wouldn’t even be going up yet. But Blue Sea is operating on a compressed schedule—what usually would take five months is being done in three. There are reasons for this: De Castro wants time to prepare for the May opening of the new Raleigh Ruth’s Chris. But in truth, he probably would have done it this way, even if he didn’t have another opening coming up. “Normally, when I start a project and sign a deal, I like to get it done,” he says.</p>
<p>Another issue: The carpeting hasn’t shown up yet, and no one’s sure when it will. Ryan Clark, the project manager, has been calling the company to try to speed things along, but so far it’s not helping.</p>
<p>“I’m trying,” he tells de Castro.</p>
<p>De Castro shoots him a glance. “Apparently, you don’t have too much pull,” he says.</p>
<p>De Castro isn’t in the best mood, and you can see that the smiles on Kearney’s and Clark’s faces are a little strained. Originally, the goal was to open in late January; now, the hope is mid-February.</p>
<p>But two weeks later, at the Babalu Grill in Power Plant Live!, de Castro’s mood is upbeat. He’s been sick—a rarity for him—and is now feeling good enough for another tasting of the prospective Blue Sea menu. Today, they’re mostly doing entrées, not just tasting them, but seeing how they look on the plate.</p>
<p>With him are Bill Irvin, Big Steaks’ director of food and beverage, and David Sadeghi, Big Steaks’ chief operating officer. A photographer is also on hand to shoot every dish; these will be posted on the kitchen wall so that every plate will look exactly as planned.</p>
<p>Sadeghi shows de Castro the silverware he wants to buy for Blue Sea—solid, curving, highly polished. And that’s the problem: The shiny finish shows every fingerprint and water spot, as de Castro points out by leaving his own print on a knife.</p>
<p>“They’re beautiful,” he says, “but you know it would drive me crazy to walk into a dining room and see that.”</p>
<p>“It’s too bad,” says Sadeghi. “They’re gorgeous.”</p>
<p>“Oh,<em> gooorgeous</em>,” de Castro agrees. “But it’s spotted.”</p>
<p>There are a few appetizers that have been tweaked that they’re trying out again: a cream of crab soup, oysters Rockefeller, clams casino. And then, at least half a dozen entrées. Every dish will go through at least three tastings. “Last time I did this with Babalu and Eurasian Harbor, I gained 40 pounds,” says de Castro.</p>
<p>Almost every dish still needs work: The mustard sauce is wrong for the crab cakes, the parsley pesto on a bronzini is too overpowering, and above all, they need to ditch the fillets. “What I’m really looking for is any fish prepared like this has to be that round and that fat,” de Castro says, his hands making the shape of a hefty steak. “And everything else has to be served whole.”</p>
<p>As the meal progresses—there will be another one tomorrow—de Castro, Sadeghi, and Irvin joke with each other, inflicting good-natured grief over the proper way to debone a fish or describe an oyster. Someone asks de Castro about his trip to Atlantic City for the new Babalu opening—did he try his luck at the casinos?</p>
<p>De Castro shakes his head. “I don’t gamble,” he says.</p>
<p>Sadeghi’s mouth quirks upward in a grin. “He gambles with himself,” he cracks.</p>
<p>Indeed, de Castro’s entire life story is one of calculated risks, each one upping the ante a little bit more. And with the exception of that one first failed restaurant, he’s won each time. He says (as do many people who know him) the reason is simple: hard work. De Castro regularly works from 9 a.m. until midnight. And to relax, he says, “I work.”&nbsp;</p>
<p>He needed that drive when he opened his first Ruth’s Chris in Baltimore, a notoriously insular town. “Until I came to town, they never accepted anyone from out of town,” he says. “I broke the ice. . . . The first year, it was tough. But I was tough, too. I didn’t come here to quit; I came here to win. It took people a while, but then all of a sudden, they started coming.”</p>
<p>“This area was Death Valley back then, bankruptcy after bankruptcy,” says de Castro’s business partner, Washington lawyer Ely Hurwitz. “At least two other restaurants had gone bankrupt in that same spot before Ruth’s Chris. People thought we were crazy.”</p>
<p>These days, de Castro’s no interloper, and his judgement is rarely questioned. “In the industry, he’s a leader, certainly,” says the Restaurant Association of Maryland’s Harris, who has known de Castro for years. “I’ve never met anyone who didn’t want to be introduced to Steve de Castro. His name is known.”</p>
<p>His name isn’t just known, it’s engraved: While neither party will say exactly how much money de Castro gave RAM toward its new headquarters in Columbia, it was enough to merit having the $1.6 million building named after him. He estimates he donates and raises half a million dollars a year for local charities, with the help of his employees and vendors. He’s often asked to host charity events—partly because he has so many venues, but also because he has a reputation for doing them well.</p>
<p>“If Steve says he’s going to do it, I don’t have to call to check up on him,” says Harris. “I know it won’t just be done, but it’ll be done with a little something extra.”</p>
<p>Like many people who expect a lot from themselves, de Castro also tends to expect a lot from the people who work for him—this is a guy who, as a kid in his first restaurant, fired his own brother for goofing off.</p>
<p>“He was a tough one,” says Nathan Beveridge, who worked for de Castro for more than four years before starting his own Mr. Beveridge’s Midtown Yacht Club and Spy Club. “But if you did the work, you had a chance there. He hired within a lot.”</p>
<p>Along with promotions, de Castro has been known to reward his employees with gifts and trips—Beveridge recalls de Castro taking him along on tours of Napa Valley and Cuba.</p>
<p>“He gives out Christmas bonuses,” says Beveridge. “That’s unheard of in this industry.”</p>
<p>“Where’s the carpet?” asks de Castro.</p>
<p>“It was supposed to be in yesterday,” answers Clark.&nbsp;</p>
<p>This is bad. Until the carpeting goes in, they can’t set up the tables. And until the tables are set up, the fire inspector can’t come out, and the lighting can’t be finalized, and it’s two weeks before opening and the carpeting just needs to be in already.&nbsp;</p>
<p>There are plenty of other things to pay attention to: De Castro is unhappy with the direction of the light in one alcove, and with the height of the lights in another, and he’s decided that the paint in the entryway needs to be changed.</p>
<p>“Steve, your name came up at a meeting with some people building this business park in Howard County,” says Clark offhand. “They wanted to call you about putting a restaurant in there.”</p>
<p>“No!” de Castro cries in mock-anguish. “No more restaurants!”</p>
<p>But of course there will be more restaurants. Even while planning the Blue Sea, he’s already got an idea for the next new gamble: taking one of his concepts national, and maybe start a franchise operation, a business Fertel helped teach him.</p>
<p>It will be the rare franchisee who has de Castro’s level of detail-orientation. This is a man who, before any of his restaurants opens, sits in every single chair of every single table, checking the view and comfort.</p>
<p>“I don’t want anyone in my place to have a bad seat,” he says.</p>
<p>The next day, another tasting, this one at The Crystal Room, the event venue connected to the Pikesville Ruth’s Chris. The menu’s really coming together at this point; de Castro’s found his executive chef, Martin Lackovic, and he’s turning out some beautiful dishes.</p>
<p>De Castro’s in a good mood again; the carpet came in last night. He was at Blue Sea until about midnight.</p>
<p>“I was having a dream about it last night,” begins Irvin.</p>
<p>“Oh my God, I thought it was just me!” shouts de Castro.</p>
<p>“Every night, from now on,” says Sadeghi, grinning. “All of us.”</p>
<p>“Welcome to the crazy world, Billy,” de Castro says.</p>
<p>It’s the last week of February, Thursday night. The lights are appropriately low for the dinner crowd, but still bright enough to make de Castro’s ring flash as his hands fly open to embrace yet another visitor. Last night, he had friends and family give the Blue Sea a trial run; tonight, it’s VIPs and folks who helped put the place together. Friday and Saturday, Blue Sea’s booked solid with yet more VIPs, tastemakers, and media members, all of whom will enjoy the restaurant’s food and wine on the house. Next week comes the grand opening to the public.</p>
<p>De Castro’s parents are here, flown in from New Orleans, and two of his four children are also on hand; family members warmly greet each other in a mixture of Spanish and English. Irvin glides by in a bow tie that matches the vibrant aqua of the entryway. Sadeghi ducks in before going back to Ruth’s Chris. Kearney stops by to drop off some plans, looking tired to the core but smiling as he gazes at the end product of his work.</p>
<p>Not that Blue Sea is finished: Even now, de Castro has his tape measure out, trying to determine a better height for the glass that separates the raw bar from the bar’s counter. And the sea-themed murals will take weeks to be finished. Still, as he takes a visitor on a quick tour of his latest endeavor, de Castro’s pride is evident as he walks around this sea of blue. Here is where the upstairs mural will go, and here’s the room for a private party of 20. Smooth saxophone music croons from the speakers, stemware glints like seafoam bubbles atop every table (de Castro pulls aside an employee to point out a missing setting), diners happily feast on steamed shellfish and silver-dollar sized lumps of crab (another pulling aside: “The judge would like eight crab cakes to take with him on his flight, so make sure they’re ready when he leaves”).</p>
<p>All is well in the crazy world. But one visitor can’t help asking, half-jokingly, when the next Blue Sea will open, and for just a second, Steve de Castro actually looks tired—weary, even.</p>
<p>“I’m really in no hurry,” he says. “I’m going to give myself a break. I got the new Ruth’s Chris in Raleigh, and then I got some projects on hold.</p>
<p>“I’m giving myself a break,” he repeats. “Three in one year is plenty.”</p>

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