Unlike most speakeasys, Order of the Ace isn’t hard to find. Connected to The Ruxton, the Atlas Restaurant Group’s swanky new Harbor East steakhouse, it fancies itself a “secret society” where “mysteries unfold.” But it need not manufacture a backstory; it is without question a cocktail bar worth seeking out.

The intimate bar and lounge serves some of the most creatively conceived drinks in the city. The menu’s signature cocktails are divided into four categories based on price, ranging from $20 to $36 (with one outlier we’ll get to later).

The libations stem from the mind of Andrew Nichols, Atlas’ head of mixology. “A lot of cocktail bars nowadays focus on the flavors that they’re putting together in a drink first and then find spirits that will work well with those flavors,” he says. “We wanted to take the opposite approach, so we picked out the spirits, then designed around those.”

Among our favorites is the popular Eyes Wide Shut, Nichols’ riff on a paloma. Made with an additive-free Mexican tequila called El Tesoro blanco, grapefruit and lime juices, green peppercorn, Thai basil, and pandan, a plan native to Southeast Asia, it has a pleasingly earthy flavor.

Many Paths Up the Mountain is an incredible combination of Takamine koji-fermented whiskey, Mugi shochu, Madeira (a fortified wine), Wagyu, yuzu, ginger, and black garlic. The drink, which pairs well with Wagyu sliders, one of a few small bites on the menu, is served in a beautiful glass with an image of Mt. Fuji in the base that is handmade by Kimura, a Japanese company.

At the peak of the menu, both literally and figuratively, sits the Holy Grail, a $72 jewel made with 50-year-old Jacky Navarre cognac. Nichols worked on it for months.

“There’s a transformation that happens in really old cognac,” Nichols says. “[At first] you might get chocolatey notes.

As it progresses, you start to have flavors that are more complex. I get passion fruit in this particular bottle “We took the spirit and surrounded it by small measures of ingredients that shared those flavors,” he continues, “and combined it with an old oloroso sherry, lychee liqueur, and then two infusions, one of Osmanthus flowers as well as Lapsang souchong,” a Chinese black tea smoked with pine.

Two of us split one and we’re here to say that if any drink can be worth $72, this is it. The notes of tea are evident, as is the smooth warmness of the cognac. Each sip produces a different, subtle flavor.

There may not be a more stylish place to drink in the city. Designer Patrick Sutton created an alluring yet understated feel. Tables surround a piano in the middle of the room making watching, not just listening to the jazz that’s performed every night especially pleasurable. The highlights of the décor are large portraits of an eclectic mix of luminaries, including Billie Holiday, Albert Einstein, and Frank Sinatra painted by local artist Beth-Ann Wilson.

Their faces are vibrant, and they seem to be looking out of their frames as if to say, “Mind if I join you for a cocktail?”

As you follow the hostess to your table at The Ruxton, Baltimore’s trendiest, spendiest new steakhouse, you’ll likely see diners digging into Fred Flintstone-sized tomahawk steaks or mammoth pieces of porterhouse aged in a meat locker for some 70 days.

While the market for plant-based meat might be booming, our carnivorous cravings have not dimmed, if this Harbor East steakhouse is any indication.

The Ruxton comes courtesy of the Atlas Restaurant Group, the culinary conglomerate that’s given rise to the swankiest spots in Charm City. It’s their 26th restaurant in Maryland and the 18th project Patrick Sutton has designed for the restaurant group. While Atlas founder Alex Smith won’t say exactly how much he spent, he will say it’s their priciest project yet. From the looks of the place, that’s not surprising.

Here Sutton imagines a world that feels far away from the borders of Baltimore, with its luxe leathers, illuminated onyx columns, forest-green velvets, ribbons of glass that sway from the ceiling, gleaming brass, and tiny table lamps that cast a sultry glow and evoke the Jazz Age. When you dine here, you’re not sitting in the space—you’re enveloped by it.

And while The Ruxton, whose name was inspired by a 1920 car company (not the north Baltimore neighborhood), checks all the boxes for an extravagant steakhouse experience, the real appeal is less about the food and more about the place itself, which offers a kind of theatricality rarely seen in Baltimore restaurants. This is how a steakhouse might look if it was designed by filmmaker Baz Luhrmann.

This stagecraft is brought to life by the highly dedicated servers who arrive with the lengthy cocktail menu within seconds of your seating, then continue to dote and decrumb throughout the meal; the parade of white-coated runners who march in lockstep as they balance sky-high seafood towers and platters of raw oysters; and, of course, the diners themselves, bedecked in sparkles and sequins (or sportscoats and Italian loafers), who serve as their own decoration in the dining room.

The Ruxton manages to be both a throwback and thoroughly modern at the same time—a place with old-school martinis, but one that also features non-alcoholic offerings. It’s a steakhouse with red meat—from a mineral-tinged, dry-aged bison rib-eye to a gorgeously marbled Japanese Wagyu—but the vegetarian at the table can enjoy a butternut squash steak and the seafood lover has a wide wealth of options, too.

Regardless of what you order, you’re here to indulge in the notion that for at least one night, you’re as rich as the food. Waste no time in splurging on an order of tater tots as soon as you sit down. Peeking out of a caviar tin, the oversized spuds are crowned with crème fraîche and a heap of Russian caviar. Pair your tots with the Grand Ruxton martini, which comes complete with a sidecar, then contemplate the other enticing offerings.

Be sure to order at least one wedge salad—a half-sphere of baby iceberg doused with blue cheese dressing and dotted with roasted tomatoes, candied bacon, burnt onions, and walnuts scattered across the surface. And don’t miss the shellfish salad—a generous portion of shrimp and jumbo lump crab resting in a pool of citrus vinaigrette. The whole affair includes an avalanche of greens, providing more opportunities to enjoy that vinaigrette.

As for the entrees, the main event is those steaks—a whopping 720 pounds of meat are sold on any given night. Seasoned with salt, pepper, and a hit of butter, the meat (sourced from a premium purveyor in Chicago) is seared on the surface of a molten hot charbroiler to create a crust, then rested for optimal succulence.

Over a couple of Saturday nights in March, I demolished a gorgeously seared six-ounce filet, and the Australian Wagyu, which was served sliced and as easy to cut through as butter. For an additional fee, steaks can be embellished with ingredients like truffle butter or a blue cheese crust or a variety of lovely side sauces, including an herbaceous chimichurri, though no additional seasoning is necessary. The steaks taste expensive—and they are. But then again, no one ever went to a luxe steakhouse to bank on a bargain.

If you prefer surf to turf, there are a host of noteworthy options, including a Maryland-style crab cake served with waffle fries and a refreshing corn salad. There’s also a branzino filet resting on a bed of sunchoke purée, plus some fried sunchokes on the side. The tubers provide a nutty counterpoint to the sweet flesh of the fish.

Like most steak houses, side dishes are a highlight. My favorites include the jalapeño grits—they’re an appealing chartreuse hue that’s achieved by puréeing peppers and spinach—and a lavish lobster mac and cheese that pair perfectly with any steak on the menu.

If you’ve saved room for dessert, consider the butter cake coated in turbinado sugar, served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and showered with strawberry crumble and macerated berries.

Sometimes it can be hard to get away from it all, but thanks to a fusion of fun, good food, and fantasy, The Ruxton will truly transport you.

THE RUXTON 720 Aliceanna St. HOURS: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 4-10 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 4-11 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers, salads: $12-26; entrees: $29-62; steaks: $46-220. AMBIANCE: Posh.

The most remarkable thing about the new James Joyce is how similar it is to the old one. And for that, we raise a pint.

When the bar opened in 2002, it was among Harbor East’s first tenants. As the area around it developed, many of the retail neighbors who moved in were national chains, yet the Irish pub managed to keep its old-world authenticity. That’s among the reasons it stung when it closed its doors in 2020. When word came last year that the Atlas Restaurant Group planned to reopen it, some were skeptical. The company has a reputation for flash, and nothing at James Joyce is particularly shiny. After all, it’s an authentic pub.

Dark wood is the material of choice here. The long, winding bar was built in a warehouse in Ireland and shipped to Baltimore. As were the original tables and chairs, many of which remain, says general manager Seamus Kelly. He worked at the old iteration from 2005 to 2017 and returned to run the place for its new owners, who kept the original design—and that magnificent wooden bar—intact.

“It captures everything that a true Irish bar would back home,” says Kelly, who should know. He’s from Cavan, about 90 minutes northwest of Dublin. “You have that sense of warmth and calm and comfort. A lot of the times bars nowadays are more modern and chic,
shall we say. An Irish bar is supposed to be the opposite. It’s not supposed to be in your face, it’s supposed to be more subtle and have a more relaxed aesthetic.”

James Joyce always had—and thankfully maintains—that feel. Atlas did make some needed upgrades, like painting, replacing some fixtures, and updating the bathrooms. But almost everything else stayed as it was. The clientele remains a mixture of locals and tourists from the nearby hotels. Live music echoes throughout the pub a few days a week.

An extensive drink list is highlighted by dozens of Irish whiskies, as well as Scotches, bourbons, ryes, and other varieties from around the world. Draught beer includes Irish staples like Guinness, Harp, Kilkenny Irish Cream Ale, Smithwick’s Red, and Magners cider. Locals include Diamondback and Union. The signature cocktail is the Heaventree, made with Jameson, green chartreuse, apple, honey, and ginger. Tangy and refreshing, it’s available on the happy hour menu for $7.

The menu is a mixture of traditional favorites and this-side-of-the-pond bar food. Appetizers range from a Scotch egg to fried cheese curds to steamed shellfish, and sandwiches include burgers, a roast beef dip, and, curiously, a foot-long chili dog. For true Irish classics look to the entrees, which include Irish bacon and cabbage, bangers and mash, fish and chips, along with the requisite crab cakes. The best bet is the shepherd’s pie, made with lamb shoulder and packed with carrots, peas, and topped with potatoes.

“It’s definitely the most traditional thing on the menu,” Kelly says.

When Kelly came to America to work at James Joyce, he only planned to stay a year. But once he got to Baltimore—and the bar—he didn’t want to leave.

We know just how he feels.

Everything you need to know about James Piper Bond, president and CEO of Living Classrooms Foundation (LCF), can be summed up in his office. It’s located in the foundation’s headquarters on the waterfront in Fells Point, located at the Frederick Douglass Isaac Myers Maritime Park, in a building that features the kind of floor-to-ceiling views of Baltimore’s harbor that are the stuff of commercial real-estate dreams.

Yet Bond’s office sits at the back of the building, facing East Baltimore, a more fitting compass direction considering what LCF does. He’s a leader who never takes his eye off the mission of the organization he’s shaped for more than 35 years.

Below one window, he can watch the progress on the Mildred Belle, one of LCF’s maritime education vessels, being repaired on the organization’s marine railway. Below another, participants in the foundation’s earn-while-you-learn Project SERVE program for returning citizens—those recently released from prison—are hard at work on the nonprofit’s newest workforce development center. In the near distance are the foundation’s Crossroads charter school, one of the highest-performing middle schools in the city, and the original Harbor East campus where LCF’s first job-training program began.

“This is my life’s work,” says Bond. “I feel fortunate to have been here since the building of the The Lady Maryland.” He’s referring to a replica 19th-century Chesapeake Bay schooner he helped build with Baltimore City school kids in the mid-1980s. Back then, the program was under the auspices of an education program called the Lady Maryland Foundation, which was essentially LCF before it was LCF.  “If anything, there’s more work to do now than ever and I’m pretty fired up about it,” Bond says.

Bond is humble by nature—and yes, likely tired of 61 years of jokes about his super-spy namesake—and always one to push programs, program participants, and other key leaders into the limelight, but LCF and Bond are inextricably linked.

“He’s a wonderful, hands-on, charismatic leader,” says Ron Peterson, chair of the foundation’s board of trustees and president emeritus of the Johns Hopkins Health System. “When you think of Living Classrooms, you think of James Bond.”

 

“This is my life’s work,” says Bond, who has been with LCF since 1986.

 

Bond began his tenure at LCF in 1986. He’d just returned from four years of traveling and working his way around the world. He motorcycled through Europe and North Africa, taught waterskiing and scuba diving in Corsica, backpacked through Asia, and coached lacrosse in Australia.

Eventually, he got on a sailboat and worked his way across the South Pacific, landing back in Baltimore, a place to which he never expected to return. It was then he connected with Dennis O’Brien, The Lady Maryland Foundation’s founder, and others who were building The Lady Maryland as a learning-by-doing project for youth.

“At the time, we came to the consensus to reach out to kids in the city who could benefit from this experience,” says Bond. “That’s when we really leaned in.”

By 1992, the organization had changed its name to the Living Classrooms Foundation, three years after, he was named its executive director.

The foundation acquired its Harbor East campus and built a structure to house its Fresh Start program in the early ’90s. That program, for adjudicated and out-of-school teens, teaches social and vocational skills through carpentry. Then Baltimore City asked LCF to take on the management of the city’s historic ships—U.S.S. Constellation, U.S. Coast Guard Cutter WHEC-37, U.S. Submarine Torsk, and the lightship Chesapeake—as well as the Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse.

Each year, the organization has grown. With initial funding from a board member, LCF expanded into Washington, D.C., where it has become the largest provider of standards-based environmental education in the district. Across Washington and Baltimore, the foundation works with 25,000 individuals a year and 10,000 volunteers.

“The foundation has done everything from running lighthouses to tall ships, to running the top community center in the city in an abandoned firehouse,” says Bond. “We use these unusual venues that are natural or in the community to have a hook for kids and the community. And we have an incredibly dedicated staff focused on providing opportunities to those who may not have had what I, for example, had growing up.”

Peterson notes that even as LCF has grown exponentially, “The organization and James as leader have always been true to the fundamental mission of breaking the vicious cycle of poverty by always remembering that the work of the organization is to strengthen communities by inspiring individuals through hands-on education and job training.”

 

“The foundation has done everything from running lighthouses to tall ships.”

 

Bond says the nonprofit is always looking at its programs to make sure they are on target with its mission.

“To truly disrupt the cycle of poverty, it’s important to approach education, workforce development, health and wellness, and violence prevention—not in siloes, but comprehensively,” he says.

To that end, in 2007, inspired by the Harlem Children’s Zone, LCF designated the Target Investment Zone, a 2.5-square-mile section of East Baltimore comprising 40,000 people, 20 schools, and five public housing communities. LCF operates numerous community and workforce-development centers in the area, as well as a Safe Streets violence prevention site (one of two LCF oversees).

Bond is quick to point out that the foundation collaborates with 100 different partners in the investment zone. It’s an important part of its mission that LCF only expand where it’s been invited, rather than pushing its way in with programs Bond and his board think the community needs or wants.

That also means staying relevant to the changing needs of the community and being able to adapt, which has helped LCF survive and thrive, even during the pandemic. This is reflected in the new workforce development center, which is focused on the in-demand job sectors of healthcare and warehouse distribution, while LCF’s education programs plan to address post-pandemic learning loss.

Bond also believes in fiscal responsibility and braiding together multiple funding sources.

“We have a saying around here,” he says with a laugh. “No margin, no mission. It’s one thing to have a great idea, but it’s meaningless without money. Resource acquisition is critical.”

In its efforts to find financial support, LCF is careful not to play politics—Bond’s worked well with nine mayors and six governors. He also has a talent for cultivating a large flock of board members for LCF’s various entities, influential people with deep pockets who are fired up by Bond’s passion for the LCF mission. Bond meets with every single one every year.

“I have a relationship with each person, and we meet so I can update them, get their feedback, and ask them about how they want to get involved, or get their family or their employees involved.”

While LCF has stayed true to its core values, much has changed over the years, most notably its Harbor East home, which straddles the boundary with Fells Point. Back when the campus was in its infancy, its only neighbor was a barren Superfund site; now it’s dwarfed by corporate high rises and high-end condominiums.

Bond says he’s been offered the opportunity to move elsewhere, but he’s not interested, especially since many of LCF’s corporate neighbors have become essential partners.

“Now the campus is the hole in the donut,” he says. “It’s been very interesting to stay here, to involve people close to us in our programming, and it’s important that they see that children, teens, and returning citizens are part of the human face of the neighborhood.”

Leadership has changed as well. Early on, LCF’s senior staff was overwhelmingly white men. Since those early days, Bond says they’ve cultivated new leaders with the intention of ensuring the organization is as diverse as the communities it serves.

He says in LCF’s own way, it’s taking a “disruptive” stance on racism, too. He points, by example, to LCF’s proactive decision in 2020 to remove the name Taney from the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter in its collection. (Roger B. Taney is infamous as the chief justice of the U.S. Supreme Court who delivered the majority opinion in the Dred Scott v. Sandford case that said African Americans were an inferior race and could not be citizens.)

 

“We want those who live here to have access to education and careers and equitable access to resources so they can have peaceful, successful lives.”

 

The Fells Point neighborhood may be more cramped than it was 20-plus years ago, but LCF is still growing. It hopes in the near future to fund a new, 18,000-square-foot, signature building at the Washington, D.C., campus, and expand The Crossroads School to include kindergarten through eighth grade, and possibly high school.

And it’ll be looking for the resources to sustain programs in the Investment Zone, as well as funding to complete the newest workforce development center building in Fells Point. That center will have two tracks—one for healthcare and another for production, warehousing, supply chain, and distribution—as well as a café in its historic cornerstone building.

One bit of assistance came after the state legislature allocated $2.5 million for the foundation to haul the Constellation into dry dock for essential repairs. In true LCF fashion, some of the work will be done by Project SERVE participants. Bond says the need for resources and programming to combat the city’s challenges is greater than ever. There are more returning citizens leaving prison, more kids on the street in need of constructive programming. But he’s certain LCF has made a measurable difference in many lives, and he’s excited to continue contributing as long as he’s able.

“I feel so fortunate to have been here since The Lady Maryland, to have brought in talented young leadership, and to be a conduit to those who have resources so our organization can excel at providing high-quality programming and sustain the historic ships and shipyards for future generations,” he says. “We want those who live here to have access to education and careers and equitable access to resources so they can have peaceful, productive, and successful lives.”

At the private Flame Room at Azumi in Harbor East, chefs work one of five teppanyaki tables, as customers gather ’round, six to a table, for dinner and a show at one of the hottest, and we mean that literally, tables in town.

With its photographs of Japan from famed photographer Peter Lik and dramatic mood lighting, this is not the Benihana steakhouse of yesteryear. Here, chefs crack the occasional corny joke, and dazzle with their surgically precise knife skills, as flames flare, but don’t expect to catch a flying shrimp in your mouth—this space has a more fine-dining pedigree, inspired by a 2018 trip Azumi owners Alex and Eric Smith took to Japan with several team members.

“We ate at four teppanyaki restaurants in Toyko and Kyoto and taste-tested our way through,” recalls Joe Sweeney, director of public relations for Atlas.

At The Flame Room, the focus is on preparing high-end ingredients—a two- and-a-half pound Maine lobster, rare Skull Island Australian shrimp, A5 Miyazaki beef sourced from Japan—across a “teppanyaki” grill, a practice believed to have started in Japan some 200 years ago when families gathered to cook dinner around a grill. (“Teppan” translates to iron plate, “yaki” means pan-fried or grilled.)

“Our chefs trained for years to work the teppanyaki table,” says Alisher Yallaev, Azumi’s culinary director of Asian cuisine. “We have three chefs with a combined experience of 50 years.” And that includes El Salvador-born chef German Canales, (pictured).

“People love it,” he says. “Their eyes are wide when they watch me cook—it’s a lot of pressure.”

Since first expanding to the historic Bagby Furniture Company building on Fleet Street in 2017, Atlas Restaurant Group has debuted Italian chophouse Tagliata, old-school pizza shop Italian Disco, and dimly lit speakeasy The Elk Room on the property.

Come winter, the back of the courtyard that all three concepts share will house an illuminated marquee welcoming guests to Monarque—the group’s latest concept that takes inspiration from a classic French brasserie and dinner theater.

The cuisine (we can only expect that the menu will emphasize French classics and an impressive wine and cheese selection) is one of the few that Atlas has yet to conquer, as it also operates worldly spots including Greek-inspired Ouzo Bay, Japanese steakhouse Azumi, Maryland crabhouse The Choptank, and yet-to-open Latin American restaurant Maximon.

Atlas CEO and founder Alex Smith says that, with the addition of Monarque, his team has transformed the Bagby building into the company’s own entertainment district.

“One of Atlas’ three pilars includes providing guests with not only a fantastic meal, but also an entertainment aspect that contributes to an unforgettable night,” Smith said in a press release. “Monarque gives us the opportunity to showcase some of Baltimore’s performers, poets, actors, and actresses in a beautiful fine-dining setting.”

Among the many interior features of the 135-seat space will be a stage for nightly live entertainment, which will showcase local comedians, jazz bands, and small theater performances. Designed by Baltimore’s own Patrick Sutton, the main dining room and bar will also boast touches like dark leather banquettes, tin ceilings, gold and brass accents, and burgundy velvet curtains.

Monarque is named after the monarch butterfly that symbolizes transformation and new opportunity—a concept which Smith himself is very familiar with.

“With each concept, we are giving something back to the city,” Smith told us in our profile of him earlier this year. “We are trying to bring unique experiences to town. In our own small way, we are making a difference, and that’s why we keep going. Part of the drug-like effect for me is seeing people walk onto the properties and say, ‘Wow, look at this. Can you believe we have this in Baltimore?’”

Less than seven weeks ago, President Donald Trump tweeted to his millions of followers and constituents that U.S. Representative Elijah Cummings’ district—which includes much of Baltimore and its surrounding counties—is “a disgusting, rat and rodent infested mess” as well as a “very dangerous & filthy place.” This evening, the 45th president walked straight into the proverbial rat’s nest, as hundreds of people gathered around Harbor East ahead of his arrival to the House Republican Conference at the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront Hotel. Here’s what some of the demonstrators had to say about the visit.

Claude Taylor, Silver Spring

I started a political action committee, and principally what we do is anti-GOP and anti-Trump billboards. And we also do the rat. We’ve had this rat for over a year, and deployed it in several states. It’s been at the White House and Trump Hotel—we took it to Mar-a-Lago. Sometimes it’s a rat truck, sometimes it’s a rat boat, but it’s always Trump rat. It’s ironic because we created it almost a year before [Trump’s statements about Baltimore.] But, that’s Trump. The rat is the perfect message.

Val Astin and Marilyn Carlisle, Baltimore City

Astin: We’re here basically to let Trump know that we don’t agree with his policies, and we don’t agree with what he has said about our city. You look at this crowd, and there’s a mixture of every color and race and age. We have to be out here to show the fact that we’re united. As a city and as people.

Carlisle: We have to show them that it’s not okay. Not in our name. He doesn’t listen, so I don’t think he cares [about the protests.] I’m doing this for me and my grandchildren. I have to stand for what I believe even if it’s not going to make any difference today. And I will be registering voters and going to other states to do so.

Joe Murphy, Baltimore County

I’m here to see the President of the United States come to Baltimore City. I’ve been here my whole life, and now my president’s finally coming. He opened up opportunity zones which is why he’s here today, so he can actually rebuild the worst parts of our city and make them nice again. His four tweets [about Baltimore] have cleaned our city up tremendously.

Chris Tallent, Ednor Gardens

Campaign Director of MAYDAY America

This is Cleanup Carl. He’s a superhero for democracy who is on a national tour to call out all of the country’s biggest corruptors, and there’s no bigger corruptors than Trump and GOP members of Congress. I think it’s so offensive that Trump thinks that he can tell people about Baltimore when he doesn’t know anything about this city. Baltimore has its fair share of problems, just like any city does. Baltimore is a beautiful, diverse city with so many wonderful neighborhoods and so many beautiful people and Trump doesn’t know anything about that. There’s no place for racism from Trump and the GOP in Baltimore City or anywhere else.

Lydia Walther-Rodriguez, Baltimore City

Baltimore Regional Director of CASA in Action in Maryland

Many of our members recognize Baltimore City as their home. Many of them have been living here, on average, for about 15 years and they are tired of the inhumane treatment from this administration and the continued bullying. So we’re out here today with a big sign that says, “Abolish ICE” to remind the administration that this is the time to ensure that our voices are heard. I think it’s important that the president continues to see that immigrant community members are united with so many hundreds of allies behind us. We’re letting him know that this is our city, and his continued threats and attacks of panic will not defeat us here in Baltimore.

Liuda Galinaitis, Westminster

I’ve been doing almost weekly protests against the Trump administration since he became president. One of my bucket list items was to come and protest when Donald Trump is in the area. I did the Women’s March, too, in Washington, D.C., which was fabulous. It was one of the top experiences of my life. I know he was in the White House then, but today is a little more personal. I want to show my solidarity and show that Baltimore is strong and we’ll always stand up to Trump’s policies, no matter what he says about us.

Grace and Isabel McLain, Baltimore City

Grace: I think there’s a lot of frustration and anger with the way that things in the country are going, and it’s cathartic to go out and be with people who are also angry and frustrated and shout about it. This [poster] has made its way around a few different rallies in Baltimore. I think that in our country a lot of people like to disguise their racism as patriotism, and then when you call it out, they try to pretend that you’re ridiculous and gaslight you into thinking that it’s about loving our country and not about hating other people.

Isabel: The real question is, what parts of this country do they love and what type of America do they consider great?

Ahead of several planned rallies surrounding this week’s House Republican Conference at the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront Hotel in Harbor East, where President Donald Trump is expected to be speaking this Thursday, protestors want to make one thing clear.

“These protests are not against President Trump,” says Cristi Linn, lead organizer at Baltimore Welcoming Committee (BWC). “It’s against the House Republican retreat that Trump happens to be attending.”

As the retreat nears, grassroots organizations like Baltimore Welcoming Committee have sprouted into action with plans for events and protests in the Harbor East area. In the case of BWC, these events have been in the works for several weeks.

But over the weekend, after weeks of speculation, it was announced that President Trump would be coming to Baltimore on Thursday to speak at the retreat—which is sponsored by the nonprofit Congressional Institute. The visit comes on the heels of the president’s comments last month about the city, calling it “rat infested,” as well as taking aim at Congressman Elijah Cummings. The remarks spurred a rallying cry, #WeAreBaltimore, which locals used to tag their social media posts explaining what they love most about the city.

The retreat being held in Baltimore has been common knowledge for months. It’s set to be held over the course of three days, though the most attention it will likely draw is around the president’s visit. Its purpose is to serve as a gathering for lawmakers to communicate goals and take stock of the party.

The BWC is made up of people who represent different demographics—including members of the LGBTQ community, people of color, and those who are disabled. Organizers see the event as a way to foster community while also espousing their views. “We want to bring attention to all of the issues and how they affect real people,” Linn says.

While a vast array of events—among them a dance party, a singing labor protest, and a climate protest—are being organized by the Baltimore Welcoming Committee, other groups are getting into the fray as well.

People’s Power Assembly, which “fights to defend the rights of poor and working people” is planning its own event Thursday centered around climate change and opposing racism. Much like BWC, People’s Power Assembly was also proactive in its planning.

“We had heard about retreat before as it was reported on,” says Sharon Black, a representative from the organization. “Our view was that the chance [of him coming] was very high. We projected our protest not just around Trump, but really the event in general.”

Of course, with the president’s first proper visit to the city scheduled, the fervor surrounding the weekend heightens. Linn says that in the last 24 hours interest from the general public has significantly increased. Meanwhile, the visit also raises the probability that counter protesters may launch their own events.

“If you would’ve asked me before he was coming, I would’ve said it’s gonna be peaceful the whole time,” Linn says. “I think that if there is a chance for any escalation it’s gonna be Thursday.”

Regardless, given the interactions between the city of Baltimore and the president over the last month, the discourse that arises from the retreat will govern conversation around the city.

“My hope is that people don’t only want to come protest Trump, and they join in on the other actions, as well,” Linn says. “Those are really the ones that will build solidarity.”

On a sunny Tuesday afternoon in June, I took a seat at the dark bar inside the ambitious new Harbor East jazz and supper club, Keystone Korner. The place was nearly empty save for a few servers, sound techs, and musicians preparing for the evening. Among them was drummer Mike Kuhl, whose quartet was scheduled to play two shows that night.

Over the course of a roughly 30-minute sound check, a beautiful mélange of horns, organ, and percussion echoed throughout the large 200-seat space on the corner of Eden and Lancaster streets that previously housed Mussel Bar & Grille. Tapping my toe on my stool, I found myself thinking that happy hour never sounded this good. I knew I was going to dig this place. And that was before I even tasted a morsel of food.

Keystone Korner is a revival of the well-known San Francisco club of the same name that started as a topless bar in 1972 and thrived throughout the decade. Its name was a Keystone Cops reference— it shared a street with the Central Police Station. Boz Scaggs and The Pointer Sisters performed there.

Posters from its glory days, like one advertising a four-night run by legendary saxophonist Dexter Gordon, line the walls, along with photos and paintings of artists making music. Since it opened in May, its calendar has been populated by some of the biggest names in jazz: Cyrus Chestnut, John Pizzarelli, Monty Alexander, Lonnie Smith. Todd Barkan, an NEA Jazz Master who ran the California club, is in charge here as well, but in Baltimore the focus is as much on the kitchen as it is the stage.

Robert Wiedmaier, who owned Mussel Bar, oversees the culinary operation here. The Michelin star-earning chef describes the menu, as “retro Americana refined.” However you interpret that, start with the trio of deviled eggs. The happy hour variety are served with yolks whipped high and three pieces of delectably crispy Magalista pork, while at dinner they’re topped with beet-pickled quail eggs. Both are magnificent.

Three fish tacos, packed with salmon, corn salsa, and radish and drizzled with a tangy harissa aioli were excellent, and a good deal for $10 during happy hour. With $1 raw oysters, selected bottles of craft beer for $2, and all 20 drafts available for $4, Keystone Korner obviously is hoping to draw people before the shows.

The ticketing process is not the easiest to figure out. While the club is open to all for eating before the start of the shows, when the music starts (generally at 7 or 7:30) diners must have a ticket for the performance. There are two tiers of seating: premium—that’s tables and bar stools with the most direct views of the stage—and general admission, which is first come, first served and includes most seats at the large rectangular bar or at a table farther from the stage.

When we arrived to see pianist Kenny Barron on a Saturday night, the joint was packed. We snagged seats at the bar with a semi-obstructed view of the stage, but the sound was impeccable. Thanks to the club’s quiet-during-performances policy, we didn’t miss a note. What we could not see firsthand was clearly visible on the TV behind the bar, which broadcasts a feed of the stage. (The music need not even stop when nature calls—audio from the show is piped into the bathrooms.)

Eating while attempting to watch and listen to live jazz can be a challenge, albeit a fun one to take on. Our dinner started on a high note, with a well-made margarita and outstanding ’Round Midnight, a Scotch-based cocktail with black walnut bitters and amaro. Our appetizers were solid as well. Rich-but-not-too-rich charbroiled oysters topped with roasted garlic and aged pecorino still allowed the natural sweetness of the shellfish to shine through. In another starter, the pairing of grilled asparagus with hummus was novel and worked well.

Our entrees arrived as Regina Carter coaxed an array of magical sounds from her violin. Five large gulf shrimp were well prepared, but their flavor was slightly overpowered by an abundance of creamy polenta. The beer battered fried black bass was a lovely piece of fish that could have used more chili glaze, which didn’t provide quite enough pop. But both dishes were enjoyable enough, if not remarkable.

By the time the meal was over, the band was wrapping up its performance as well. It—unlike us—had to do it all over again in about a half hour (most groups play two separately ticketed sets per night). As we shuffled out, we could not decide which of our senses had been better satisfied by an evening of soul-warming food and music.

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KEYSTONE KORNER 1350 Lancaster St., 410-946-6726. HOURS: Mon.-Thur. 3:30 p.m.-midnight; Fri. 3:30 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sat. 4 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers: $10-16.75; entrees: $18-24; desserts: $9. TICKETS: $15-55, depending on the artist. AMBIANCE: Swingin’.

Late Tuesday afternoon, around the time most Baltimoreans were in their cars headed home, to dinner, or settling in for the night, cell phone notifications alerted that a flash flood warning was in effect. The city was promptly inundated with lightning, thunder, and hail. And though it seemingly came out of nowhere, the heavy flooding that brought as much as five inches of rain—with citizens evading high waters by standing on top of their cars—is a symptom of a problem that might only get worse.

Heavier rainfalls are up 55 percent in the region since 1958. According to a 2018 study of urban flooding by the University of Maryland and Texas A&M, two-day events are up drastically, as well. This increase in precipitation—along with construction in Harbor East and Little Italy, where the majority of damage was seemingly done—has the potential to be a recipe for disaster.

“Baltimore is not alone,” Gerald Galloway, a University of Maryland professor of engineering who co-led the urban flooding study, recently told Baltimore. “The kind of flooding it’s been experiencing we’ve seen a lot of on the East Coast and Gulf Coast in the last five years. People are beginning to realize it’s a long road we are going down.”

Thankfully, many local business owners say it seems as though the brunt of the storm was felt out in the streets and not inside buildings in the area. Both Rosalyn Vera of Cocina Luchadoras in Upper Fells Point and Gia Fracassetti of Cafe Gia in Little Italy say that their businesses suffered little to no damage. Fracassetti observed construction workers physically climbing down from their perches and signs tumbling to the ground.

“It made it look like we were back in Venice,” Fracassetti says, referencing the canals in her family’s native Italy. “I was concerned for some of the workers that were kind of trapped up there.”

Vera says that in a worst case scenario, this type of flooding could completely shut down her business. But by the later hours of the night, it was hard to tell that the magnitude of this type of flooding had even descended upon the area. It’s a reminder that, while things are back to normal now, the city has work to do to prepare for when it happens again.

“You would’ve never known there was a bad storm last night,” Fracassetti says “Today is just another day.”

When news broke last Fall that 80-proof Pikesville Rye was being discontinued, lots of locals were dismayed. Events were even planned to mourn the loss. That’s because we in Baltimore are a loyal bunch and Pikesville, though no longer distilled in our state, has a deep local history dating back to the 1890s.

It’s also because rye is experiencing quite the comeback.

Our region was once synonymous with rye whiskey (what bourbon is to Kentucky) and, though rye production was hit hard by Prohibition, it’s back with a vengeance. Bar patrons are ordering old fashioneds with rye, local distilleries (and athletic apparel CEOs) are getting in on the game, and “Maryland-style rye” has been resurrected as a spirits category all its own.

“It’s gone crazy recently,” says Michael Leeds, owner of Barfly’s in Riverside, which has the city’s largest whiskey selection (with 98 bottles of rye alone). “It never used to be a big thing in cocktails, but now a lot of people are asking for rye specifically.”

Bar managers are also seeing a change in who is doing the drinking.

“The biggest thing I’ve noticed is that the younger kids are drinking it now,” Leeds says. “Manhattans and bourbons in general were something your dad drank.”

Similarly, Loch Bar, which currently has about 450 whiskies on hand, has seen a huge boom in requests for rye. The bar even has a Maryland Free State flight with four 1-ounce rye pours for $30.

“You get all these rich, oaky flavors of vanilla and it has more of a spicy bite to it than a bourbon,” says Eric Smith, managing partner at Atlas Restaurant Group and head of the beverage program at Loch Bar. “It’s a great way to change it up in the colder months.”

While weather is one factor, many agree, it’s the emphasis on local that has helped the trend take off.

“People are drawn to it because of its rich Maryland history,” Smith says. “Wars and Prohibition caused it to recede. But, just like our city continues to fight back, rye is doing the same thing.”

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Tasting Notes

Sagamore Spirit Rye American Whiskey
Sagamore Spirit, founded by Under Armour CEO Kevin Plank, is getting into the rye whiskey game, with its version
blending two mash bills—a high rye and a low rye. The result is a sweeter, smoother rye whiskey.

Lyon Distilling Free State Rye
This St. Michaels distillery might be better known for its rum production, but its rye whiskey is noteworthy. The 100-proof Maryland Free State Rye is aged in oak barrels for less than a year, resulting in a spicy flavor with hints of vanilla.

New Liberty Distilling Melvale Straight Rye
Inspired by the Melvale Distillery, which opened on Cold Spring Lane in the 1880s, Philadelphia-based New Liberty Distillery re-created the recipe. The 90-proof rye is sweet (honey, vanilla) and spicy (cinnamon, pepper).

One Eight Distilling Rock Creek Rye
Washington, D.C.-based One Eight Distilling just released the first grain-to-glass rye to be bottled in the District since Prohibition. Using local rye and corn and a copper pot still, the distillery’s 94-proof rye has a nutty finish and is ideal in cocktails.

Like many things in Todd Barkan’s life, the opportunity to revive his West Coast jazz club, Keystone Korner, in Baltimore seemed serendipitous. “That’s how a lot of good things happen,” says Barkan, who struck up a friendship with restaurateur Robert Wiedmaier when the chef hosted the National Endowment for the Arts’ (NEA) Masters awards dinner at Marcel’s in Washington, D.C. almost exactly one year ago.

“It was a byproduct of the music,” says Barkan, who was being honored with an NEA Jazz Masters’ award that night. “Had I not gotten the award, I would have never met Robert. The music brought us together.”

A few months later, Wiedmaier suggested that the duo reactivate his former Mussel Bar space in Harbor East as a modern iteration of Keystone Korner. While the new spot will take inspiration from the original San Francisco club, which Barkan operated from 1972-1983, it will have an identity all its own—paying homage to Charm City’s rich jazz history.

Read more about the club, which debuts with a performance by legendary double bassist Ron Carter, with guitarist Russell Malone and pianist Donald Vega, on April 30.

The new club will take after the original Keystone Korner in San Francisco.
Just 11 days before the grand opening, a team of nearly 20 people whizzed around the former raw bar—rearranging furniture, interviewing potential employees, discussing menu details, and planning interior decor. “This is what I like to call the calm before the storm,” says hostess Dajerel Gray, in between answering phone calls and taking reservations. By her count, the club has already sold 107 tickets for its lineup of shows booked throughout June.

Similar to the original Keystone Korner, most of the staff members are either performers themselves, or aficionados who are deeply passionate about jazz. Take visual consultant Lucas Novaes, a local artist and musician who is curating all of the art in the space. There’s also general manager LaRone Duplessis, whose deep-rooted connection to jazz dates back to his upbringing in New Orleans.

Barkan, of course, is also a champion for the scene. The seasoned pianist moved to San Francisco and took over Keystone Korner in the early-’70s—the heydey of rock and roll.

“People told me I was nuts,” he says. “The rock scene was at a peak. That was the era of The Grateful Dead, Carlos Santana, and Jefferson Airplane. They said, ‘Barkan, what are you doing?’ And I said, ‘I’m opening a jazz club.’ I’m rather idealistic, I didn’t know any better.”

Under Barkan’s reign, the club became a hub visited by jazz legends like Dexter Gordon, Bobby Hutcherson, Stan Getz, Buster Williams, Ron Carter, and Rahsaan Roland Kirk. “It was all about the music,” Barkan remembers. “We’re going to try to make this place the same.”

Menu will feature spins on American staples paired with classic cocktails.
One aspect that will differ slightly from the original Keystone Korner is that the new iteration will have a larger culinary focus. Wiedmaier’s restaurant group will oversee kitchen operations, offering a menu that the Michelin star chef describes as “retro Americana refined.”

“The food is very American, but with cheffy touches,” says Wiedmaier, who researched the menu at jazz clubs in New York City with Barkan a few months back.

Wiedmaier is particularly excited about his deviled quail eggs topped with whipped yolks, mangalica pork, caramelized onions, and a remoulade sauce. He also mentions pan-roasted sea scallops with bacon-potato hash, and a smothered chicken in tarragon butter sauce.

The beverage program will offer 20 beers on tap, eight champagne varieties, and more than 30 wines by the glass. In keeping with the jazz club feel, there will also be plenty of classic cocktails. (Think martinis with cheese-stuffed olives and after-dinner grasshoppers.) “We want to marry the food and the music together,” Wiedmaier says.

The entire project came together in less than four months.

On January 8, 2019, the same day Barkan got the call from Wiedmaier pitching the idea to open Keystone Korner in the former Mussel Bar space, he was advising students at the prestigious Jazz Congress in New York City.

“He calls and says, ‘I have some good news. We want to open up Keystone Korner in Baltimore,’” Barkan recalls. “And that was it. Three months ago, I didn’t even know this club was going to exist.”

Barkan relates it to the opening of the original Keystone Korner, which he purchased from its former owner in a deal that took only two days to close: “The parallel is Robert calling me in January,” he says. “It’s now April, and we have Ron Carter opening up on International Jazz Day. It’s like a wonderful movie.”

Locally inspired design spearheaded by MICA grad Lucas Novaes.

The 200-seat space is equipped with a large centerpiece bar, wooden accents, a back lounge, intimate booth seating, and multiple communal tables. Throughout the club, designer Lucas Novaes plans to incorporate old photographs, mixed-media works, chalk portraits, and murals of local icons including Billie Holiday, Cab Calloway, Eubie Blake, and Ethel Ennis.

Both the music, as well as the history, aren’t lost on Novaes: “Jazz is one of the most sophisticated forms of expression,” he says. “It came from struggle, and Baltimore is a beacon of that.”

Live music will be performed seven nights per week.
The team assures that, no matter what night you choose to pop in to the club, there is sure to be a performer gracing its custom-built, carpet-lined stage: “There has to be,” Barkan says. “I’m not going to run a club like this and just have a jazz album playing.”

Aside from hardcore jazz musicians, the lineup will also incorporate genres like samba, funk, and psychedelic rock. Wiedmaier hopes it also becomes a platform for local musicians studying at the Peabody Institute and Baltimore School for the Arts. “We want to bring in these straight-up jazz musicians, but we also want to bring in younger performers,” he says. “It’s going to be a venue for everybody.”

Tickets for all shows, which range from $10-45, will be offered in both general admission and premium seating with direct views of the stage.

Baltimore jazz legend Cyrus Chestnut helped to choose the club’s new Steinway.
When picking out the club’s piano, Barkan enlisted the help of his old friend Cyrus Chestnut. The Baltimore-based composer, pianist, and Howard University professor—who got his start playing at the Mount Calvary Star Baptist Church on Harford Road—says he was honored to help pick the instrument for such “an iconic and historic venue.”

“It wasn’t necessarily about what I liked,” Chestnut says of the process. “It had to have a range to encompass various different points of view. It had to be something that had good sound. Not too bright, not too dark, right in the middle. Just a joy to play.”

After trying out a few, the seven-foot Steinway B model proved to be the winner: “I sat down and started playing, and it felt really good to me,” Chestnut says. “I just kept playing and playing, and after about 20 minutes, everybody looked at me and said, ‘Oh I guess that’s the one, huh?’” Chestnut will grace the piano keys once again when he performs with Buster Williams and Lenny White at the club May 22-26.

Keystone Korner is an indicator of a local jazz revival.
As Chestnut puts it, “I think Keystone will really be the start of a new jazz renaissance in Baltimore,” he says. “This place is really going to up the ante. We’ll once again have that jazz hub that Baltimore had for so many years.”

While there are many local venues that have become known for hosting jazz bands—including An Die Musik, Germano’s Piattini, and Bertha’s Mussels—Keystone fills a void left behind by clubs like Ethel’s Place, Blues Alley, and the Left Bank Jazz Society.

Another club called Bentley’s is expected to open in the former Cookers Music Bistro space on Howard Street in the coming months—contributing to the overall revival of Charm City’s storied jazz scene.

“I remember when I first got to New York and I said I was from Baltimore, people looked at me differently because it was just this known thing that cats from Baltimore had something special,” Chestnut says. “Just as cats from New Orleans and Chicago, Baltimore was like ‘Okay, oh you’re from Baltimore.’ There was a certain expectation. That is really something special.”

Walkability was a huge factor for Michael Neall when he decided to open Blue Dog BBQ in the former Heavy Seas Alehouse space, which sits on the corner of Central Avenue and Bank Street near Little Italy.

“One of the first things we did was check out the walk score for our location,” says Neall, who opened Blue Dog with partners Sean Stoll and Jon Royce last October. “It was a 96. That’s about as good as it gets for a business that would rely on foot traffic.”

After months converting the space from a brewpub to a barbecue joint, the team was finally ready to fire up its signature all-wood smoker and welcome the first wave of customers. But just five days before the grand opening, jersey walls were put up along Central Avenue as the city’s Departments of Transportation and Public Works prepared to begin a large-scale infrastructure improvement project in the area—which included installing new subterranean electric, sewage, and plumbing conduits.

“When the barriers went up, our hearts skipped a beat,” Neall says. “We immediately just thought, ‘Okay, how are we going to deal with this?’”

This is a question that many small business owners have been asking themselves in the midst of ongoing development throughout the city. Specifically in the Harbor East and Fells Point areas, where detour signs and traffic cones have become routine, restaurateurs have been struggling to cope with construction projects that have taken years to finish.

Take Sunni Gilliam, who opened Teavolve on the corner of Aliceanna and South Eden streets in 2008. The cafe preceded many of the shiny residences and luxury shops that have since sprouted up in Harbor East, and it’s now stationed in the heart of construction for the new Liberty residences—which will be anchored by a 50,000-square-foot Whole Foods on the ground floor when it debuts this summer.

“We’ve seen some challenges,” Gilliam says. “There’s definitely been a decline in our figures, but we’re very fortunate that people still find a way to get here. They’re still making a point to come in and support us.”

Gilliam mentions the loss of parking on South Eden and Aliceanna Streets as a major deterrent for customers. She speculates that it contributed to the closure of the neighboring Mussel Bar—which shuttered last year, but is reopening as a jazz club this spring. Just a few blocks over in Fells Point, businesses are facing similar issues as a result of the redevelopment in Broadway Square.

“It hasn’t been easy,” says Carrie Podles, co-owner of Alexander’s Tavern on the 700 block of South Broadway. “We’ve lost so much parking, and there doesn’t seem to be any parking replaced. Business was booming four or five years ago, and then it was one thing after another and it just seemed like it was never ending.”

In response to the construction—which began with the Marketplace at Fells Point apartments and continues with the overhaul of Broadway Market—Podles says she has been encouraging customers to use ridesharing platforms when coming in to the restaurant. Additionally, Alexander’s has been amping up its off-site catering to make up for the loss of diners.

A self-proclaimed optimist, Neall at Blue Dog has also been searching for innovative ways to drive business throughout construction. He and his team recently participated in the Baltimore Wing Festival to spread the word about his restaurant, has been promoting their private party room, and has found success using delivery apps like DoorDash and Uber Eats.

Despite the barriers and heavy equipment that will likely surround his barbecue spot until the end of the year, Neall remains positive about how the city has responded to his concerns. He says that officials have been gracious about sending notices of planned outages and potential water shutoffs so that the restaurant can prepare accordingly.

“So often you hear about antagonism between businesses and government, but I haven’t had that experience at all,” he says. “I found that they have been very understanding. We all recognize that this is a needed infrastructure project, and that, if the city is going to progress, it’s going to have to do these types of things.”

He also mentions that the city is working on adding a crosswalk at the corner of Bank and Central so that potential patrons can access the restaurant without having to deal with the extended pedestrian detour.

“When I’m walking down a sidewalk and I see a sign that says ‘sidewalk closed,’ what that says to me, and to any potential customer seeing it, is ‘don’t go there,” he says. “And that’s the direct opposite of what we want.”

Though dealing with construction remains tough, business owners agree that the ongoing projects will benefit the overall vitality of their neighborhoods in the long run.

“We’re fighting the fight,” Podles says. “We just need to make it to the end to enjoy all of the benefits.”

Gilliam sees the light at the end of the tunnel for Harbor East: “It’s going to feel like an entirely new area,” she says. “We were here when hardly anything else was. Before it was stagnant, so we welcome the construction because we know it’s going to pay off big time. We just have to hold on for a couple more months.”

First things first: there really is a disco ball hanging from the ceiling at Italian Disco, the Atlas Restaurant Group’s latest eatery in its burgeoning Harbor East empire. When we visited in the fall, it started rotating around 8 p.m., adding an extra dash of funk to the festivities. Not that it was needed—we were already having, well, a ball.

Housed in the former home of Bagby Pizza, which felt like a take-out joint, Italian Disco exudes a much more happening vibe than its predecessor. A long bar with circular stools lines one wall; high-top tables and conventional ones fill out the space. Looming above it all is the back half of a vintage Fiat that doubles as a DJ booth on weekends. We loved the classic rock playing on our weeknight visit—Italian Disco is actually a genre of music that originated in Italy in the late ’70s.

Our meal began inauspiciously. The restaurant opened in May, and the service is still rough around the edges. Our waitress didn’t know the answer to several of our questions about the menu and was oddly hesitant to ask the bar or kitchen for answers. We started with fine but unremarkable cocktails, forgettable complementary breadsticks, and an order of fried olives that were far too bready. We barely touched the appetizers (we finished the drinks, of course), which turned out to be a good thing, because everything that followed was fantastic.

Three large turkey meatballs doused in marinara sauce, Parmesan, and basil were beautifully flavored and impressively moist. The sausage and peppers sandwich, while not as spicy as we would have liked, was accompanied by a fistful of terrific fries prepared in peanut oil. A plate of penne pasta, made in-house, was topped with tender blackened chicken in a subtle red sauce that included peas. It was rich, but not overpoweringly so.

But all that served merely as a precursor. The pizza oven is visible from the back, and in it, chef Julian Marucci, whom Italian Disco shares with its across-the-courtyard sister restaurant, Tagliata, produces some of the best pies in the city. Most of the 12-inch varieties cost $14-19 and are worth the dough. The toppings on the Carbonara—bacon, leeks, soft egg, black pepper, and pecorino—were delicious, but the crust was the real star. Thin and impossibly crispy, yet not over-charred, we delighted in each crunchy bite.

Strangely, our second pizza had not emerged from the kitchen by the time we’d finished with our first. It had been burned, our server explained, and another was being prepared. (I applaud this honest approach to an honest mistake.) By then we were already quite full, so there was no panic at the disco.

When the white anchovy pie arrived, we immediately knew it was worth the wait. Devouring a slice of this masterful melding of fragrant fish, peppers, olives, and oregano was a lot like Italian Disco itself: a blast (from the past).

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Italian Disco 1006 Fleet St., 410-605-0444. HOURS: Sun.-Wed. 11 a.m.-midnight; Thur.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. PRICES: Appetizers: $4-19; salads: $11-18; sandwiches: $11-19; entrees: $14-25; pizza: $14-28. AMBIANCE: Upbeat.

It’s going to be a bittersweet New Year’s Eve at Wit & Wisdom in Harbor East. As the fireworks fall over the Inner Harbor on December 31, Michael Mina’s waterfront tavern inside the Four Seasons Baltimore will serve its final Chesapeake fare.

Beginning January 1, Atlas Restaurant Group will transform the space into a new dining destination that is expected to open mid-2019. The yet-to-be-announced concept will be Atlas’ fourth inside the hotel, which also houses Azumi, Loch Bar, and the scenic Bygone on the top floor.

“We are honored to operate a fourth concept in the hotel,” said Alex Smith, founder and president of Atlas Restaurant Group in a statement. “The addition of another unique restaurant will make the hotel a dining and entertainment destination unlike any other in the region.”

Former executive chef Zack Mills joined the Wit & Wisdom team six months after it opened in 2011, and quickly stepped into the role as executive chef months later. Though he left the restaurant in June to open True Chesapeake Oyster House, Mills is quick to point out that his years at Wit & Wisdom were essential to his growth, especially as he prepares to open his own spot.

“I owe my career to that restaurant,” he tells us. “It’s hard to put into words how much it’s meant to me over the years and what it will continue to mean to me in the future.”

Aside from its stellar wine program, the tavern was best known for its dishes that showcased Eastern Shore seafood—a philosophy that Mills, an Anne Arundel County native, was happy to continue.

“It was always our goal to showcase the Chesapeake to the best of our ability and simply do Maryland cuisine justice,” Mills says. “And if our story resonated with just a couple of people, then I think we did our job properly.”

Throughout his five-year stint in the kitchen, Mills recalls the special wine dinners, charity events benefitting No Kid Hungry, and cooking alongside Mina himself—whom Mills describes as being one of his greatest mentors.

Above all, he says he will miss the tight-knit team of cooks, sous chefs, and managers—many of whom he still keeps in contact with.

“I see restaurants as living beings,” he says. “And the lifeblood, bones, and the heart of the restaurants are the people in them. Those people will definitely be in my heart for the rest of my life.”

Brianna Volatile started her lifestyle blog, The Brunette’s Diary, while she was still in high school. What began as a creative outlet for the young fashionista blossomed into a platform where she could connect with her devoted readership as well as the brands she loves.

Volatile’s aesthetic became shop-able with the opening of Simple & Feminine, a brick and mortar boutique as well as an online store. We caught up with the young entrepreneur to discuss her process, favorite things, and the future of Simple & Feminine.

What was your inspiration for opening a boutique?

I’ve always loved photography, fashion, and beauty, and the blog was my creative outlet. It started getting traction about three years ago and brands started to contact me, and we would work together on partnerships. I’ve worked with big brands like MTV, Maybelline, Coach, and Express, but I also worked with a lot of smaller boutiques.

With those smaller stores, I noticed when I would post their pieces or do a collaboration with them that I would sell out of it—often it would be gone that same day. I thought, why not have a place where I can highlight the brands I love, that my readers have already interacted with through my blog? So, I opened Simple & Feminine in January of this year.

You’re not originally from Baltimore. What brought you to the city?
I’m from Howard County, and my original location was in Ellicott City. I had been there for five months, and then in May of this year it flooded. I had to figure out where to go next. Baltimore City has so many cool small businesses and is very fashion forward. Plus, the majority of our following is Baltimore-based.

I reached out to a bunch of different places, and Harbor East took me in. They had a pop-up location available, which is where Simple & Feminine will be until February of next year. I’m working on scouting the perfect permanent location, hoping to stay in Harbor East. They’ve been so welcoming to me.

What was the inspiration for the name Simple & Feminine?

I love all things simple, with a feminine twist. I love my pinks, my blush pinks, and my grays. I carry pieces that you can wear more than one time. I like to be able to give my shoppers something they can wear a few different ways, multiple times, not just something to wear out once and then retire.

What are kinds of styles can people expect to find here?

A lot of the pieces that I have are boho chic, and a lot of fun denim. We are known for our beauty products as well. A lot of the brands I carry are women-owned, whether that be beauty products, fashion, or gifts. I hand-select every single piece myself, with the goal that everything in the shop has a unique story behind it. I like to be able to support other small businesses with the brands I choose to highlight in the shop.

You have such a well-curated selection. How do you know what will be the right fit for your customers?

Sometimes businesses will guess what their customers want, whereas I will straight up ask. When I’m on buying trips in New York, I’ll use Instagram stories and polls to find out what my followers like best. Half the time, those items sell out within an hour, because my customers have been with me through the whole process of buying it, selecting colors, and then getting it in stock.

What are your current favorite fashion and beauty trends?

I love the big furry jackets that are really in right now. Leopard has also made a comeback—we had an amazing leopard cardigan that sold out in a day, which I loved. But I also love timeless pieces—denim jackets and leather jackets—those things that never go out of style. As far as beauty trends go, I love the jade roller. We have tons of beauty products, but I love that it’s a tool that anyone can use, no matter their age or skin type, and you can keep it forever.

What’s it like running a business with your mom?

My mom is more behind the scenes, but she is my partner in crime. She’s been going to New York with me for years when I would do blog collaborations, and she was always asking, “So, what’s next?” She has definitely helped with the vision of the brand, and she comes with me on all my buying trips.

Being in Harbor East, you’re right up against so many big name stores. Was that intimidating or exciting when you signed your lease?

Very exciting. I think that it’s an honor to be on the same street as these huge fashion brands. Walking down the street, you read, “Free People, Anthropologie, Simple & Feminine,” and that’s a real dream come true. I don’t see it as competition—I don’t know anyone who only shops at one store. Harbor East is a shopping destination, and I’m really happy to be here.

What sets your boutique apart?

When my customers come in, I want to provide them with the best shopping experience. I walk them through the store and help them find something they’ll love. I try to bring in brands that people haven’t necessarily heard of yet, and it’s all stuff that I love and use myself.

Before I buy a whole collection of something, I’ll buy it myself personally and wear it, wash it, work out in it, all to make sure it’s a great fit. It’s me running it all. Simple & Feminine is my baby and I think that’s what sets me apart from the bigger brands and stores.

The day after Thanksgiving most people have two things on their minds: recovering from a food coma and Black Friday shopping. But, this year, the Four Seasons Baltimore is hoping that you’ll work off that turkey tummy at their brand new rooftop skating rink opening on November 23.

The fifth floor Harbor Terrace at the luxury Harbor East hotel will transform into a 1,560-square-foot synthetic ice rink. The rink will be open to hotel guests as well as the public on Thursdays and Fridays from 4 to 8 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 8 p.m. until January 6.

“The hotel really wanted to have something special that the community and our guests could enjoy,” said Beverly Magee, general manager of the Four Seasons Baltimore. “We also thought about the fact that our pool area on the fourth floor is one of the things that our guests really rave about, so we wanted to utilize that in the winter months to really make it something special.”

With panoramic views of the Inner Harbor, visitors will have the chance to test their skills while enjoying spiked coffee drinks, house-made hot cocoa, spiced apple cider, and stove-roasted chestnuts. Admission for the non-hotel guests is $25 for adults and $15 for children with skate rental for $5 for 45-minute sessions. While entry is complimentary for guests of the hotel, the prices for skating is discounted at $15 for adults and $5 for children 12 and under.

Ice skating options in Baltimore have come and gone over the years. The beloved Northwest Ice Rink in Mt. Washington filed bankruptcy and closed in 2011, and mainstays Dominic “Mimi” DiPietro Family Skating Center in Patterson Park and the Mount Pleasant Ice Rink in East Baltimore have stood the test of time. In 2014, the glitzy new outdoor Pandora Ice Rink opened and brought new life to the Inner Harbor.

“Over the years, it’s become a fun place for friends, families and coworkers to gather and celebrate,” said Laurie Schwartz, president of the Waterfront Partnership. “We see folks taking a spin during their lunch break, teaching their children how to skate, enjoying date nights and more—it’s a really great place to celebrate the season.”

One thing that sets the Four Seasons new ice rink apart from the others is not only the exclusivity of it all, but that Magee says that the hotel is planning to donate a portion of the sales to cancer research.

“I think we’ll give people a real sense of the Harbor East environment, beautiful views of the harbor, and a feel good component with the philanthropic element,” she says.

This rooftop ice rink will also be available for private event rentals during the days that it’s not open to the public. Although plans and pricing are still being worked out, guests can expect to have customized menus and bars to add to the “holiday magic.”

“During the holidays, people come to this area to take advantage of the shopping and restaurants, so this can be another thing they can add to their holiday agenda,” Magee said. “We hope our skating rink will become a memorable family tradition for years to come.”

If you’ve traveled to Harbor East within the last year, you may have noticed lots of ongoing construction—the new Harbor Point bridge, The Liberty apartments, Della Notte demolition—now add to the list the erection of a new luxury apartment building at 900 Fleet Street, which is set to be complete in 2019.

The current space is currently being used as an industrial switching station for Verizon. The new development of the space by Washington, D.C.-based developer Monument Realty calls for the partial demolition of the existing structure to build high-rise apartments. After much success with their recent building at 225 N. Calvert Street, Monument decided to set their sights on the popular “luxury district.”

“We look forward to delivering a new apartment building in Harbor East which is a spectacular submarket with some of the highest rents in the city,” said Colleen Kittell, spokeswoman for Monument Realty. “We love the neighborhood and think that more and more people will be interested in living downtown.”

This new property will be following a new trend that has hit Baltimore with the arrival of new residential buildings—Anthem House, 414 Light Street, Hanover Crossing, and The Liberty—with retail on the lower levels. The project is planned right next to 380-unit apartment tower going up on the former Della Notte restaurant site on Fleet and President streets.

The 377,000 sq. ft. building will feature 400 studio-, one-, and two-bedroom apartments and 300 parking spaces above 20,000 square feet of retail space on the street level. The area has morphed into a developer’s dream with expensive apartments, condos, shops, and restaurants.

“We have already received interest from potential tenants,” she said. Although she can’t reveal who they are just yet.

The $100-million building will feature a modern contemporary design with indoor and outdoor amenity spaces including a rooftop pool, fitness club, and pet amenities. Rental rates have not yet been determined but Kittell says they will be comparable to the rates of existing properties in Harbor East.

One concern that comes along with massive development is whether or not all of these new units will get filled—especially in a city like Baltimore whose population has remained stagnant for the past few years.

A unique model that’s been used by Monument Realty already is the pop-up hotel company, WhyHotel, which temporarily leases out vacant apartment units. There is no word yet on if this new apartment building will make a similar arrangement.

“We’re in the early stages of planning,” Kittell said. “We’re looking for next year for things to get underway. We’re really excited.”

Multiple construction signs barricading the Central Avenue Bridge on the corner of Lancaster Street and South Central Avenue were officially removed this morning, making way for pedestrians, cyclists, and vehicles to easily travel back and forth between Harbor East and Harbor Point.

“This is a really important corridor for us,” said Mayor Catherine Pugh at the ribbon-cutting ceremony. “It’s providing opportunities for our community to engage from one section of the city to another. These are the kinds of great developments that say, ‘Baltimore is moving forward.’”

Construction work to connect the two areas began in January of 2017, and currently, the bridge offers two driving lanes, as well as bike lanes, and pedestrian walkways connecting to Lancaster Street. The new pathway is part of a larger initiative by the city’s Department of Transportation (DOT) to accommodate increased traffic and improve the streetscape along Central Avenue from Baltimore to Lancaster streets.

“What we’re doing here is creating a brand new connection to this part of our city,” said DOT director Michelle Pourciau, mentioning that, until now, the only way to enter Harbor Point was on South Caroline Street. “This project adds safety, roadway capacity, accessibility, mobility, and, more than anything else, it adds a nice aesthetic and visual connection.”

Come September, the completed bridge will extend all four lanes of Central Avenue to Beatty Development Group’s Harbor Point. The 27-acre peninsula houses the Exelon headquarters and Sandlot recreation space, as well as other retailers like West Elm, Ceremony Coffee Roasters, CorePower Yoga, Plantbar, and Honeygrow.

“We’re happy that the neighborhood has finally been connected to the rest of the city,” says Honeygrow’s general manager Mike Wainwright. “A year ago, people didn’t know what Harbor Point was, and now it’s part of a lot of people’s routines as they’re walking through the city.”

Now that the bridge has made the development more accessible, Wainwright is looking forward to introducing the wholesome salads and noodle bowls to patrons coming from all over the city.

“I’m a little nervous about how busy it’s going to be,” he admits. “But we’re excited to get more people to come over this way. It’s pretty cool that it’s not just a peninsula anymore. Now it’s part of the route of traffic along the water.”

At Plantbar, the Belvedere Square business that opened a second location at Harbor Point in May, staffers are eager to serve the shop’s cold-pressed juices to more customers as the sweltering summer weather continues.

“It’s kind of confusing right now with all of the different construction going on,” says Plantbar employee Meg Neale. “From a visibility standpoint, it’s going to make it a lot easier for people to get here. All of these businesses are going to be a lot more successful.”

In addition to increasing foot traffic to the businesses at Harbor Point, Beatty Development is passionate about fostering a closer connection to the waterfront for residents and tourists alike. The bridge’s opening now makes it possible for pedestrians to walk along the water from Harborview in Federal Hill, all the way to Canton.

“Some of the things that make our city so great are the passion, people, and our waterfront,” said Jonathan Flesher, vice president of development for Beatty Development Group. “But it isn’t just any other waterfront—we have an accessible waterfront. This bridge will finally allow us to connect the promenade to Harbor Point and beyond.”

On the Harbor East side, construction barriers that once detoured traffic on Lancaster Street have been removed, making it easier for diners to get to neighborhood restaurants like Gordon Biersch and Ouzo Bay. At the press conference Monday morning, officials made a point to thank the local businesses on both sides of the bridge for their patience throughout construction.

“Bridges unite people,” summed up Tim O’Donald, president of Harbor East Management and Waterfront Partnership chairman. “They break through natural barriers and connect areas that were once isolated from each other. Our hope is that this bridge will stand long and bring our city closer together.”

OPEN

Cured and 18th & 21st: After much anticipation, the team behind Howard County’s Iron Bridge Wine Co. has finally cut the ribbon at this hybrid concept inside the new One Merriweather building in Columbia. The building houses a casual Mid-Atlantic eatery called Cured up front, as well as 18th & 21st in the back —a speakeasy-style jazz club named after the amendments that enacted and later repealed Prohibition. The menus in both dining rooms are spearheaded by chef Christopher Lewis, a local industry veteran who most recently ran the kitchen at Iron Bridge. To celebrate the grand opening and Capital JazzFest happening just a few hundred yards away at Merriweather Post Pavilion this weekend, 18th & 21st will highlight performances by local jazz musicians all weekend long. 10980 Grantchester Way, Columbia, 667-786-7111

COMING SOON

The Pizza Trust: Just when we thought Belvedere Square Market had everything, a new pizza joint is being thrown into the mix later this summer. James Clark, who owns Clark Burger inside the Senator Theatre across York Road, is debuting this new spot that will serve quick-fire pizzas, wings, fries, and salads. The menu of personal pies includes varieties like the “Mobtown” (garlic oil, mozzarella, caramelized shallots, roasted red peppers, and toasted pine nuts), the “Dirty Bird” (truffle bechamel sauce, herb chicken, bacon bits, and B-More Saucy buffalo drizzle), and the “Trust,” which tops hand-stretched dough with house red sauce, green peppers, and sweet and spicy Italian sausage. 529 E. Belvedere Ave., 443-961-8111.

Donut Alliance: After one year of peddling their tasty treats at local eateries and cafes, husband-and-wife team Jeff and Emily Arenberg are settling in a brick-and-mortar of their own. Slated to officially open on Harford Road in Lauraville later this month, Donut Alliance will feature a daily selection of the couple’s signature vegan varieties including strawberry lemonade, maple facon (vegan bacon), and classic Boston cream. “We’re avid bakers,” Emily says. “So we’re always trying to get to where non-vegans can’t tell the difference.” 4311 Harford Rd., 410-627-4597

Sophomore Coffee: This yet-to-open coffee shop introduced itself to the scene with a pop-up at Hunting Ground last weekend, and it will be back at the Hampden vintage shop this Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Stop by to sample the signature brews (either hot or iced) in advance of Sophomore Coffee’s debut in Old Goucher in the coming weeks. Stay tuned for more updates. Hunting Ground, 3649 Falls Rd., 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

NEWS

The Elk Room: It’s been an exciting week for Atlas Restaurant Group’s speakeasy-style cocktail bar in Harbor East. On Wednesday, the dimly lit hangout was awarded a coveted spot on Esquire’s annual list of the “21 Best Bars in America.” The write-up gives shout-outs to industry veterans Shaun Stewart (who actually recently moved on from Elk Room) and Andrew Nichols, and praises the duo’s creative drinks including “The Poe’s Raven”—a smoked rum and coconut cocktail that was inspired by the rum-ham bit in It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia. “Being named one of the Best Bars in America is a result of all of the hard work, passion, and dedication that our team puts into the Elk Room each and every day,” says Atlas managing partner Eric Smith, who oversees the beverage program. “We are very appreciative of the recognition, and will continue to raise the bar when it comes to cocktails and service.” In previous years, Esquire’s list has included The Brewer’s Art, Rye, and Mt. Royal Tavern. The Elk Room, 1010 Fleet St., 410-244-5830

EPICUREAN EVENTS

6/1: Lobster Roll Fridays Return to The Corner Pantry
You know it’s the start of summer when chef Neill Howell brings this Friday tradition back to The Corner Pantry in Mt. Washington. Starting this Friday, June 1, Howell will be whipping up his classic Maine lobster rolls on housemade bread served with an order of crispy chips. Swing by the Falls Road haunt on Fridays throughout the summer starting at 11 a.m. to taste the signature summer dish. 6080 Falls Road, 667-308-2331, $28.

6/2: Great Grapes Wine & Food Festival
Throw on a pair of sunnies and head to Oregon Ridge Park this Saturday to sip more than 100 Maryland-made wines from the likes of Boordy Vineyards, Linganore Winecellars, Basignani Winery, Olney Winery, Royal Rabbit Vineyards, and more. Plus, there will be a la carte local beer, food truck fare, live music, and a playground area with crafts for kids. If that’s not enough to convince you, ’90s chart-toppers Vertical Horizon (think “Everything You Want” and “Best I Ever Had”) will perform a headlining set at 7 p.m. Oregon Ridge Park, 13401 Beaver Dam Rd., Cockeysville, 1-8 p.m., $29-39

Even before you head up to Bygone at the top of the Four Seasons, the restaurant sets the stage with a dress code posted next to the elevator entrance. Just in case there’s any doubt that you’re about to enter a splendored world of hand-blown Zalto wine glasses, custom gold-rimmed Lenox china chargers, and arrangements fashioned from flowers and feathers, the style strictures—“Collared shirts are required for Gentlemen,” “Ladies may not wear baseball caps or beanies”—set the record straight about fine dining in Harbor East. And as you ascend 29 floors up to this rarified world (with an assist from a top-hatted elevator operator), there’s one more thing you need to know: Hold on to your wallet—sitting in the lap of luxury doesn’t come cheap.

With panoramic views, and soaring nearly 314 feet from Earth, Bygone takes the term “haute cuisine” literally. And the impact is dizzying—despite the oversized retro clock at the entrance, you’ll likely lose all sense of time and space when you dine and drink here. You might even forget that you’re in Baltimore altogether, except for the fact that beyond the towering walls of windows, Charm City glimmers with all of her unmistakable landmarks below—the Domino Sugars sign, the Key Bridge, and Camden Yards.

Welcome to Atlas Restaurant Group’s latest foodie fantasy, established in December of 2017, but, as the name suggests, seemingly out of another era, like a lavish set piece for Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby, complete with gueridon trolley service and yards of velvet curtains that separate many of the seating nooks and add to the theatricality. If it’s an escapist dining experience you’re after, beeline for Bygone.

The décor takes a cue from the glamour of the 1920s and ’30s, but the menu is a nod to the nouvelle cuisine of the ’60s, created as a more delicate alternative to traditional French cooking, with lighter sauces (though plenty heavy by American standards) and ingredients and flavors that had not been combined before. While Cordon Bleu-trained executive chef Matthew Oetting is interested in the past, he brings vintage dishes into the present in the form of respectable riffs such as scallops bourguignonne, a squab and foie gras eggroll, and duck flambé with lavender honey glaze.

Our dinner at Bygone began with drinks at the dimly lit bar, which is a mandatory stop for anyone investing in a meal here. Bar manager Will Escalante presides over an unprecedented whiskey selection (more than 600 bottles), though we went for a couple of classic vodka martinis served in delicate coupe glasses and garnished with gargantuan green olives. We could have lingered at the bar forever, but once we were seated for dinner, the opening bites of both the house-baked gruyère and pretzel rolls continued to lay the foundation for a mostly wow-worthy meal.

The house-cured gravlax starter with dill crème fraîche and “everything” spice with brioche toast points is a killer combo full of flavor and interesting textures. The tuna ravigote starter (made with canned tuna back in the day), gets recast as crudo with sashimi-grade fish, freshly grated horseradish, a cucumber fan, Champagne-marinated cherry tomatoes, and traditional ravigote sauce—a mixture of herbs including chervil, shallots, and tarragon. Entrees are similarly reimagined classics. 

Take the grand Beef Wellington, a seared piece of house-butchered prime rib wrapped in Rainbow Swiss Chard and shitake mushroom duxelles, all tucked inside a pocket of pastry. Though the puff pastry was more doughy than delicate, the meat was incredibly tender and juicy. Swiss Chard is also employed as bedding for a delicate, pan-seared piece of golden Dover Sole Meunière, freshly flown in from Holland and served with a sauce of capers, lemon, and roasted chestnut-brown butter that adds notes of nuttiness and makes the flavor profile more modern. The golden-crusted fish was exquisite, and almost too much for one person to eat, but prepare yourself for sticker shock—the à la carte dish is a jaw-dropping $95.

If you’re watching your dining dollars, a lunchtime visit is still a splurge, but less so than dinner. The menu focuses predominantly on soups, salads, and sandwiches. Consider the Crab Louie, clumps of Venezuelan crab meat mounded on a simple salad of romaine, topped with hard-boiled egg and avocado, and dressed with a creamy and kicky dressing. On the more indulgent end, we enjoyed a marvelous, but messy, lobster club, including Bibb lettuce, tomato, red onion, fried shallots, and six ounces of Maine claw meat spilling out of a house-made brioche bun slathered with honey mustard and avocado mayo. Don’t miss the sweet and smoky lobster bisque. My companion’s comment that she wanted to “lick the bowl”—as she came up for air between sips of the cognac cream broth—said it all.

Service was unerring, though overly eager at times. During dinner service, as if on cue, our waiter said, “May I?” a few too many times as dirty dishes were cleared and new ones arrived. Several times, we caught him peeping out from behind the velvet curtains to gauge our reactions, but it’s hard to fault someone for caring too much. As we headed to the elevator with our parting gifts in hand—chocolate truffles nestled in a tiny gold box—we looked forward to an encore performance.

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BYGONE 400 International Dr., 443-343-8200. HOURS: Lunch: Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Dinner: Sun.-Wed. 4-10 p.m.; Thurs.-Fri. 4 p.m.-midnight; Sat. 5-midnight. PRICES: Appetizers, soups, salad: $10-44; entrees: $24-95; desserts: $9-16. AMBIANCE: Retro glamour.

For most of us, cider conjures up images of fall hayrides, pumpkin patches, and cinnamon and cloves on the stove top. But, in fact, cider is a booming year-round business, mimicking nationwide trends in the craft beer and local spirits industries.

That’s why the U.S. Association of Cider Makers (USACM) started a modest get together in Salem, Oregon, in 2011 as a way for a couple-dozen cider makers to connect and talk about industry hurdles. Now, CiderCon has blossomed into a week-long convention full of tastings, tours, and educational workshops taking place January 30-February 2 in Baltimore.

“Baltimore is definitely on the radar as a burgeoning food and drink city,” says USACM executive director Michelle McGrath. “Plus, the city is conveniently located near several great cider communities like Frederick and Washington D.C.”

The main conference, at the Marriott Waterfront in Harbor East, is meant for association members to connect, network, and gain an education about the cider industry, which has seen a 500 percent increase in sales since 2011.

“The biggest reason for growth was that gluten-free products became a huge focal point for the health-conscious consumer,” says Sara Sherrer, co-owner of Graft Cider in New York (and whose dad owns Millstone Cellars in Monkton). “There’s a lot of really great orchard land in this region and a lot of these awesome cideries and producing creative blends.”

CiderCon will feature more than 30 public events around the city including food pairings, tap takeovers, and chances to meet cider makers. There will be regional representation from places like Distillery Lane in Western Maryland and Anxo in D.C., as well as bigger players like Angry Orchard and the New York Cider Association.

“The cider industry is unique in that we take a big tent approach,” explains McGrath. “We’re all about everyone drinking more cider, no matter if that comes from national or regional brands.”

Some special events to look out for include a showcase at B&O Railroad Museum where guests can sample more than 75 ciders, an oyster pairing dinner at Dylan’s Oyster Cellar, an Angry Orchard takeover at Max’s Taphouse, a cider social at Charm City Meadworks, and a Graft Cider release party at Wet City.

“To me, Wet City is one of the better craft beer bars in the city,” Sherrer says. “And there’s a lot of crossover from people drinking craft beer starting to get into cider. We want to tap into that explorative market.”

Other elements of the week-long cider celebration include tours of regions, like Frederick and Adams County, Pennsylvania, where cider is really booming. All in all, McGrath hopes that CiderCon helps bring together the maker community, as well as broaden horizons for the average drinker.

“The biggest misconception is that people say they think cider is too sweet or too tart,” she says. “But we know that the variety of cider is as big as wine or beer—and are using a lot of the same techniques. There is definitely a cider out there for everyone.”

Harbor East diners were crust-fallen (pun intended) when Bagby Pizza Co. served its last slice last week. But, happily for patrons, the oven hasn’t had time to cool before the announcement of a new pizza concept.

Atlas Restaurant Group has announced that it will be taking over the former Bagby space with a pizzeria called Italian Disco. The new restaurant, Atlas’s ninth in the neighborhood, is expected to undergo renovations and open in the spring of 2018.

As the name implies, Italian Disco will have an ’80s-theme (think Madonna to Mellencamp). In addition to serving New York-style pies, it will boast a Wurlitzer jukebox stocked with a music catalogue from the decade. The 75-seat space will offer quick-serve lunch options, dinner service, and a late-night menu until 2 a.m. The spot will also have an elevated DJ booth and a full bar featuring 50 draft beers.

“We want this concept to be a fun, casual spot for the neighborhood to enjoy good food and drinks,” says Atlas owner Alex Smith.

Executive chef Julian Marucci of Atlas’s neighboring Tagliata and The Elk Room will be at the helm of the wood-stone oven. In addition to pizza, Marucci will serve classic Italian appetizers, sandwiches, and entrees.

“Our menu will be very approachable and hit a price point option that does not currently exist in Harbor East,” Marucci says. “Nothing on the menu will be higher than $25.”

Although there’s a changing of the guard, the space has already been blessed by family. Smith’s cousin, Blake Smith, previously operated Bagby in the space for 10 years.

Blake, who confirmed Bagby’s closure to us last month, wishes his cousin well.

“Bagby was a great concept and certainly a fun 10 years, but onto other things,” Blake says. “I think you will like what Alex does in there.” 

If you’ve walked through Harbor East lately, you’ve probably noticed the eye-catching orange signage of the Baltimore area’s newest fitness franchise, Orangetheory. 

The gym, which has made its new home in the former Chazz restaurant space, opened its doors in October. And while it may be easy to be intimidated by the glowy orange lights, the fit (yet very friendly) instructors, and the bumping Top 40 soundtrack, don’t let that stop you. Orangetheory guarantees results. 

“We are one of the only workouts in the industry today that is backed completely by science,” says owner Sonrisa Medina. “The Mayo clinic has partnered with us, which has never happened before—for a medical community and a fitness community to team up.” 

The “theory” behind the workout is based on working your way through a five level heart rate zone to achieve maximum results. Each 60-minute class has members alternating between lifting weights, using treadmills, and rowing, with the length of each interval varying by workout. 

But what really sets it apart from other gyms and studio classes is that participants wear heart rate monitors to track their real time biometrics, which are displayed on screens above the equipment. “The zone we coach our members to get into is the orange zone, or excess post-exercise oxygen consumption (EPOC), which means burning calories after your workout as your body gets back to homeostasis,” says Medina. 

By spending as much of your workout as possible in the orange heart rate zone—hence the name—you will continue to burn calories up to 36 hours after your workout through the “afterburn” effect. You can also expect state-of-the-art equipment and facilities—we’re talking individual shower rooms. (However, be warned, Orangetheory is BYOT—bring your own towel.) 

“I’m just excited to be a part of the growing fitness community in Baltimore,” says Medina. “We are bringing something to the region that they’ve never seen before.”

Though Prohibition ended nearly 85 years ago, there’s still something enticing about speakeasy-style bars—those furtive, candlelit spaces adorned with vintage touches and punctuated by boozy cocktails.

Enter The Elk Room (1010 Fleet St., 410-244-5830), Atlas Restaurant Group’s new concept in the former Ten Ten space in Harbor East. While this speakeasy is a more Hollywood version—with its peephole entrance, crystal chandeliers, servers costumed in flapper dresses, jazzy covers of Top 40 tunes, and period bric-a-brac, including a massive elk head and grandfather clock—it succeeds where it matters. Namely, in the drinks department.

Back in the 1920s, barkeeps had to get creative to cover up illegal swill, and that spirit of invention plays out here. Bartenders Shaun Stewart, formerly of Gunther and Co., and Rob Vogel from Ten Ten crafted a seasonal menu that excels at classics with a twist. Our visit included a mojito made with liquid-nitrogen frozen mint and a Manhattan with coffee-infused bourbon. Another inspired elixir was the elegant Honeysuckle Rose with rhum agricole, lavender honey, and lemon juice. 

As you’d expect, The Elk Room’s selection of whiskey is quite impressive. To further the underground feel, there’s a passageway leading to a members-only cigar bar in the old Oliver Speck’s location. There’s a private poker room, as well as paid lockers for guests to store bottles and cigars.

The bar is also adjacent to Atlas’ new Italian chophouse concept, Tagliata, which means executive chef Julian Marucci runs the kitchen for both spaces. There are options like meat and cheese plates, but our favorite snacks were the boar nachos with Oaxaca cheese and jalapeños or the Brussels sprouts (a welcome holdover from Ten Ten) with peanuts, Fresno peppers, and sweet chili sauce. 

The menu spells out eight house rules including “no standing at the bar,” “no flash photography,” and “speak easy.” And you should pay heed because if you quiet down all the noise of the splashy décor and campy soundtrack, you can focus on what’s really important—the stellar cocktails and cuisine.

Before becoming a restaurateur, Alex Smith was a lax star who broke multiple National Collegiate Athletic Association records as a face-off specialist and captain of the University of Delaware Blue Hens lacrosse team. Now, as founder and president of Atlas Restaurant Group, the 33-year-old former Chesapeake Bayhawk has shown the same determination in tackling the culinary world. 

Clearly, Smith, who has a knack for opening instant hot spots faster than the speed of a lacrosse ball, has a keen understanding of how to compete successfully in the fierce world of running restaurants. In the past two years alone, he has opened Tagliata, The Elk Room, Loch Bar in Harbor East, and a second Ouzo Bay in Boca Raton; his Loch Bar Boca and a new project, The Bygone in Four Seasons Baltimore, are set to open any day now. With Tagliata, his latest venture in the 21202, Smith has demonstrated that he’s come a long way since his freshman season when he opened his first spot, a Harbor East Häagen-Dazs franchise. 

New restaurants, like fine wine, typically need time to breathe and blossom. But the 140-plus seat Italian chophouse (pronounced “tal-e-ata”), open since August in the former Fleet Street Kitchen space, already feels like a local institution. Dine here if you value impeccable service (rarely the hallmark of any new spot), fabulous food, and a glorious setting, including a piano bar, nightly live music, and some of the best alfresco seating in town.

With linen, velvet, wicker, and wood touches, Tagliata, which means sliced meat in Italian, feels like a sophisticated supper club. And success has come straight out of its black wrought-iron gate because Smith has assembled an A-team of veterans: executive chef and partner Julian Marucci, managing partner David Goodman, and sommelier John Kelley all trained across the street at Cinghiale; chef de cuisine Michael Correll is a holdover from Fleet Street Kitchen. Smith’s brother, Eric, is a partner and also on hand to help oversee the Atlas beverage program, including the 1,000-plus label wine program, purported to be the biggest in the state.

The oversized menu features neo-Italian interpretations such as lasagna with rabbit ragu and bruschetta with duck confit, plus an assortment of house-made charcuteries, steaks and chops, house-made pastas, and crudi. Though they’re hidden at the bottom of the menu, the holy trinity of Italian classics (chicken Parm, tagliatelle Bolognese, veal saltimbocca) are among the very best items to order. Across several visits, we sampled the better part of the menu, where Marucci’s passion for precision is evident in almost every dish. The eggplant Parmigiana was pure comfort food nestled in a blanket of top-flight ingredients, including house-made mozzarella, a stellar tomato sauce, and a crispy crust of eggs, breadcrumbs, and Parmesan cheese still bubbling over the sides when it arrived at our table. While intended as an entrée, it’s also great as a shareable appetizer.

Equally enjoyable was an appetizer of light-as-a-cloud meatballs accompanied by a dollop of whipped ricotta. A Caprese salad with mozzarella and just-off-the-vine heirloom tomatoes felt like a fitting farewell to the end of summer. As for entrees, the chicken marsala, featuring hen-of-the-woods, oyster and porcini mushrooms, aces every ingredient and is something to write home about, especially so when you use the Cunningham Farms focaccia to sop up the sauce.

House-made pastas are also memorable. First and foremost was a dish of ramp spaghetti and clams (cockles, manila and razor) that was beautifully briny and pungent, thanks to the garlicky flavor of the wild onions. Also of note is the visually striking squid ink campanelle with sea-urchin cream sauce and fat clumps of Eastern Shore crabmeat. This decadent dish, a study in umami, really is as good as it looks. If you want to continue your visit to the sea, move on to the seafood stew, studded with mussels, clams, rings of octopus, several shrimp, and a hunk of bronzino. This dish was inspired by Marucci’s honeymoon trip to Ravello years ago and clearly comes from the heart. Additonally, options abound for the meat lover at the table. Ours ordered the beef tenderloin, a hand-cut filet that was melt-in-your-mouth divine and came with a choice of several sauces.

As with any dining experience, it’s the little moments that matter, like the basket of aged Parm brought to the table at the top of the meal. (Feel no shame asking for more. On one visit, our mobile cheese monger made three trips to the table to shave shards from his 88-pound aged wheel.) Service hit all the high notes—from the well-versed staff able to explicate with clarity and confidence, to the changing of cutlery between courses, to a swift replacement round of napkins when one of my dining partners dropped his on the floor. With restaurant openings, as with many things in life, practice makes perfect. 

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TAGLIATA 1012 Fleet St., 410-244-5830. HOURS Sun.-Thurs. 4-10 p.m., Fri. 4 p.m.-12 a.m., Sat. 6 p.m.-12 a.m. PRICES Soups/salads/crudi/appetizers: $9-24; pastas: $18-48; steaks/chops: $34-125; entrees: $19-48; desserts: $9. AMBIANCE Italian idyll.

Perhaps one of the most striking details that hits when you first walk into Cinghiale in Harbor East is the array of decorative wine bottles that line seemingly every spare inch of the enoteca’s shelves and windowsills. But, what most might not know about the collection of vino vessels, is that each one tells a story of a guest that has shared a meal at the restaurant throughout its 10-year run.

“I had the restaurant built so that it was loaded with shelves for these bottles that we would have our guests sign,” says co-owner Tony Foreman, who estimates that there are nearly 1,000 bottles on display. “It’s funny—it’s a tradition that we started the first week we were open, and even now whenever I’m in the restaurant I always look up at that original shelf and remember some of the first people who came in.”

The signed bottles—which are inscribed with messages ranging from “Happy Birthday” to “Best Drink of 2007” in metallic marker—are a small part of the vision that Foreman had for the Italian restaurant when he debuted it 10 years ago.

At the time, his restaurant group, which he co-owns with Chef Cindy Wolf, had already conceived of Charleston and Petit Louis. But Foreman was anxious to showcase Northern Italian food, a concept people weren’t yet familiar with, and go beyond just Americanized spaghetti and meatballs.

“During the first year or two, people struggled to understand it,” he explains. “Italian food is a very natural, one-ingredient driven style of cooking. It’s like the beauty of a sunrise. If you get a beautiful mushroom, you want to show the mushroom. You never want to cover it or fuse it with something else. For a while, we had to work to translate that to the audience.”

Eventually, the concept caught on, and the restaurant became a go-to for its handmade pastas, house-cured charcuterie, roasted meats (Cinghiale translates to “wild boar” in Italian), lengthy wine list boasting more than 600 labels, and commitment to local sourcing.

“Right around our second anniversary was like a switch flip,” says Foreman, who has since helped open Johnny’s and the recently rebranded Bar Vasquez. “Baltimore is so smart. People just have to try it enough to get a feel for it. You have to hear enough of a song to instinctively dance to it.”

To celebrate hitting the decade mark, Cinghiale will offer half-priced bottles on its official anniversary on Thursday, September 21, as well as complimentary glasses of prosecco for all diners the week of September 18-24.

Looking back on the restaurant’s run, Foreman says that some of his favorite memories include hosting regulars, as well as groups visiting from Northern Italian cities like Milan and Verona. He also notes that he has enjoyed watching the local dining scene, as well as the farm-to-table movement, thrive alongside the restaurant.

“Years ago, it never occurred to me that what we were doing was farm-to-table,” he says. “But I don’t know where else you get food. For Italians, it’s kind of a given. Just like how the sun comes up and it goes down. Farmers grow food, and you cook it.”

Disclaimer: I am a huge Drake enthusiast and still recovering from the fact that he was down the street from our office and I did not get to meet him. Consider this a part of my recovery process. 

Mythical wingless angel Drake was spotted enjoying sushi and drinks at Azumi in Harbor East last night. While we are unsure as to why he is in town, the luckiest people in the universe received the dinner surprise of their lives. 

Candice Law was downtown celebrating a family member’s birthday, she said on Twitter, when she received the news that the Canadian rapper himself was at the sushi restaurant with some friends. 

The group went to Azumi in Harbor East around 11:55 p.m., requesting to sit outside on the patio, Joe Sweeney, spokesman for Atlas Restaurant Group, told The Sun. 

The 6 God requested to listen to Jay-Z’s brand new “4:44” album and we’re assuming that Azumi didn’t have Tidal (because who does?), which is the only streaming service it’s available on. So, Sweeney said, they “were able to accommodate him.”

Once Law arrived at the restaurant with her cousin, she was understandably hesitant to approach Champagne Papi, who was surrounded by a tight security team. But she got up the courage, shaky hands and all, to walk out to the patio to “give the speech” of her life.

Law, who described the former Degrassi star as “delicious,” said she is a huge fan and that she drove 10 hours up to Toronto for his annual OVO Fest. 

They also discussed venues that Drake could play in Baltimore, and he pointed across the water to Pier Six and said he’d want to play there. (“He’s too adorable, so I don’t think to tell him that he’s too big to play there,” she wrote.)

From Law’s account, Drake was nothing but the king we all already knew he was, offering to connect her with tickets to an upcoming show and not batting an eye when getting a picture with her. Though, she did admit that she was so flustered she forgot her phone passcode a couple of times. She is all of us. 

“I said thank you more times than I can count,” Law wrote. “The rest is history. Most epic moment of my life.”

While we don’t know if Drake is still in the area, I plan on starting my weekend off staring listlessly at the Four Seasons, contemplating picking up a shift at Azumi just in case he returns. 

Walking into Bar Vasquez off Aliceanna in Harbor East is like entering another world. A photograph of a gaucho girl wearing a wide-brimmed hat and sitting atop a white horse draws you in at the door. Lavish leathers, cowhide rugs, Brazilian tigerwoods, and 15-foot palm trees further the fantasy. Live Latin music and the intoxicating aroma of grilled meat permeate the place. Topping it all off is a kitchen crew wearing Boca Juniors caps, in support of the celebrated soccer team. Are we in Buenos Aires or Baltimore?

Welcome to Bar Vasquez, the newest eatery in the Foreman Wolf empire. With its latest spot, the restaurant group focuses primarily on the region in and around Argentina, a place that offers a confluence of cuisines heavily influenced by Spain, Italy, and France. It’s a logical follow-up to the Mediterranean-centric Pazo that formerly sat on this site.

Whether it’s France (Petit Louis, Charleston) or Italy (Cinghiale), when business partners Tony Foreman and Cindy Wolf fall in love with a place, they don’t settle for bringing back a few simple souvenirs. (Foreman has visited Argentina more than 20 times through the years.) Instead, to promulgate their passion, they open new eateries.

It will take more than one trip to Harbor East to get the full experience. Named for chef Wolf’s beloved mentor, Marcelo Vasquez, this spot—featuring former Pazo chef Mario Cano Catalán—offers a variety of eating and seating options. While the menu is the same wherever you sit, the lively downstairs area with banquettes, benches, booths, and a commodious bar is more casual. The upstairs, with velvet chairs and white tablecloths, and a DIY whiskey and bourbon bar, feels more fine dining.

There are also decisions to be made when it comes to ordering. If you enjoy grazing, there are plenty of approachable ceviches, soups, and salads. Another option is to commit to a coursed meal with a variety of generously portioned meat, seafood, and pasta entrees, many of which marvelously mesh smoke, sweet, and heat.

Over the course of several Vasquez visits, I kept coming back to an assortment of empanada starters. By far my favorite was the one stuffed with minced Uruguayan beef and onions, and spiked with cumin and smoked paprika. My dining companions and I also enjoyed the delicate tostadas de cangrejo. Topped with blue crab, avocado, chili, corn, and cilantro, it was the ideal prelude to the heartier entrees. For a sophisticated starter, try the hearts of palm salad with poached shrimp, butter lettuce, avocado, and an ambrosial Russian-dressing-style rosé sauce, comprised of house-made mayo, ketchup, and a tinge of Tabasco and cayenne pepper.

As for entrees, eating meat is pretty much compulsory here. The main attraction is high-quality beef, sourced from world-famous meat metropolises including Kansas (corn-fed T-bone), Chile (wagyu), and cuts coming from Uruguay, a country known for its lean, grass-fed, free-range beef. One caveat: The prices are high—the majority of steaks are in the $59 and upward range—but so is the quality of the product. And the steaks, which can be served sliced, are eminently shareable.

The Uruguayan-sourced ojo de bife is a dark and deliciously charred rib steak sitting almost Zen-like on a white plate with nothing but a line of herb salt. With its juicy center and sublime balance of texture and flavor, it induced serious swooning at our table. For those who like a leaner, lusher cut, go for the melt-in-your-mouth filete de bife, a 10-ounce filet mignon so tender that chewing seems almost optional. While steaks arrive à la carte, they do come with your choice of salsa. Go straight for the spicy chimichurri. The sauce of olive oil, vinegar, garlic, parsley, and basil is basically the state condiment and this version should be bottled.

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Charred Local Cauliflower

Cauliflower acts as an agent for whatever you add. This dish with lemon chili oil and Parm is a study in taste and texture.

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Nonmeat eaters will be rewarded with seafood specialties, including the plancha-grilled shrimp from Argentina. Served in a lemon sauce on top of an herbed spaetzle, the sweetness was amplified by lemon juice and hot chili pepper. Side orders are similarly spot on. The simple steamed spinach with lemon and garlic chips and the more decadent smashed potatoes, mixed with house-made ricotta and black olive tapenade, dazzled in their supporting roles.

All of the familiar Foreman Wolf high notes are hit on here—and nothing is left to chance: the impeccably sourced ingredients prepared with care; the polished server who notices that a steak knife has been prematurely used on a starter and replaces it without us ever asking; the pristine table linens steamed before service; the expertly curated wine list (about half of which is well-priced at $50 and under); and the presence of Foreman—a host with the most—as he visits tables and spins his narrative of cows roaming the pampas, an image etched indelibly from his travels across Argentina. “This is the restaurant I’ve been wanting to do for a long time,” he says with palpable pride.

It was worth the wait.

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BAR VASQUEZ 1425 Aliceanna St., 410-534-7296.
HOURS Mon.-Thu. 5-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5 p.m.-midnight.
PRICES Appetizers: $6-18; entrees: $25-79; desserts: $3-10.
AMBIANCE Gaucho glam.