The spot serves up serious aesthetics (think: lovely glassware, kababs and tahdig on silver trays, and thoughtful garnishes) that are uncommon in strip-mall dining.
Here, rats have an omnipresence, invading everything from our vacant buildings to our fanciest restaurants, our nightly news to our national headlines, our pop-culture zeitgeist to our personal psyches. And as far as relationships go, it’s complicated.
How the grit of our dive bars—and, yes, even our rats—makes the city home.
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