It’s no secret that the chemicals in chocolate are known to boost your mood, and there’s nothing quite like a mug full of piping hot cocoa to help forget all of those winter woes. This season, plenty of area eateries are getting creative by putting their own unique spins on the classic cold-weather treat.

“It’s something everyone has a connection to,” says pastry chef Sarah Malphrus, who has worked at local spots including Rye Street Tavern and The Ivy Hotel. She remembers making batches of hot chocolate and spiced cider with her family as a child. “You can never have just one cup.”

Plenty of spots around town are highlighting decadent hot chocolate recipes this season. Here, we’ve compiled a list of some of the top steamy sips:

The Charmery: Especially this time of year, when crowds flock to see the 34th Street Lights in Hampden, a visit to this neighborhood creamery is in order. If you’re one of the naysayers who thinks it’s too cold for ice cream, indulge in a cup of The Charmery’s thick, creamy hot chocolate topped with whipped cream and a hunk of house-made marshmallow. Multiple locations including 801 W. 36th St. 410-814-0493

The Bun Shop: This late-night coffee corner is a favorite of neighborhood locals and college students alike, with a menu full of worldly beverages, signature buns, and tasty European pastries. Not only does The Bun Shop have a killer classic hot cocoa, but it’s been known to also feature a “spicy” hot chocolate amped up with cinnamon and chili spices. Multiple locations including 239 W. Read St., 410-989-2033

Dooby’s: Warm up with a 12 or 16-oz. cup of hot chocolate at this Mt. Vernon mainstay. While you’re at it, grab one of the shop’s signature cookies, muffins, scones, or cake slices to start the day off right. 802 N. Charles St., 410-609-3162

Miss Shirley’s Café: Just in time for the dropping temperatures, Miss Shirley’s is warming diners up with it’s piping hot chocolate topped with a swirl of house-made whipped cream. Don’t miss other seasonal specials including the peppermint hot cocoa pancakes— garnished with a dollop of peppermint-infused whipped cream and a mini candy cane for good measure. Multiple locations including 750 E. Pratt St., 410-528-5273

Pitango Gelato: Take your taste buds on a journey to the Italian Alps by way of Fells Point at this neighborhood gelato spot that offers an entire menu full of European hot chocolate drinks during the colder months. Head to the mint green awning to enjoy specialties such as Hot Italian Sipping Chocolate (premium cocoa brewed with milk and sugar), Marrochino (equal parts sipping chocolate and espresso) and Chocolate Affogato—a scoop of any flavor gelato drowning in Pitango’s signature sipping chocolate. 802 S. Broadway, 410-236-0741

Pure Chocolate by Jinji: Gourmet chocolate purveyor Jinji Fraser highlights a sophisticated sipping chocolate during the holiday season. Swing by her stall in Belvedere Square Market to sip small pours of the dairy and gluten-free drink, which features raw Ecuadorean chocolate. 529 E. Belvedere Ave., 410-394-9901

Stone Mill Bakery: Alongside the plethora of pastries and scones on the morning menu at this Green Spring Station stalwart is a variety of warm beverages including mocha, Americano, and café au lait coffees. The list also showcases a rich hot chocolate using Valrhona cocoa powder sourced from the village of Tain L’Hermitage in the south of France. 10751 Falls Road, Lutherville, 410-821-1358

Teavolve: While checking things off of your holiday shopping list in Harbor East, be sure to swing by this staple cafe for the “Chocoholics Choice.” The rich drink will warm your soul with Belgian-style semi-sweet cocoa powder and a requisite dollop of whipped cream. 1401 Aliceanna St. 

The Bolton Hill district continues to remake itself into an inviting cloister for residents and visitors alike. Narrower driving lanes, well-marked crosswalks, new curbs, and a dedicated bike lane have tamed Mt. Royal Avenue’s traffic, rendering it less of a speedway and more of a promenade. The tendrils of new openings probe this revitalized block, and Noona’s is the latest arrival.

Owner Phil Han’s credits include the Asian-inflected Dooby’s on North Charles and laid-back cocktail bar Sugarvale, as well as Fat Tiger and Old Boy’s in the newly renovated Broadway Market. Noona’s brings an Italian-inspired menu to students and longtime Bolton Hill residents alike, without white-tablecloth prices. On our visit, we were welcomed by an airy space with a minimalist aesthetic accented with cool metals, warm woods, and restrained dashes of color.

From bar stools to high tops to banquettes to outdoor tables, we had our pick of seating options. We took our seats inside and checked out the menu while sipping inventive cocktails, then began our meal with two small plates. We were delighted by fava beans in the farro salad, accompanied by roasted turnips, earthy sorrel, and bright pickled ramps. We also enjoyed the roasted broccoli’s interplay between zesty lemon accents and piquant tellicherry peppers.

As we polished off these delicious starters, we were enticed by the pizzas passing by, ultimately indulging in The Bambino. A toothsome and satisfying sourdough crust provided the foundation for a succulent dance of flavors—juicy fennel sausage, red onion, creamy ricotta, and spicy honey. We loved this spirited combination and were tempted to polish off the whole pie right there, but other plates beckoned to us, starting with the soft crab special.

This was offered as a sandwich or on its own, and we opted for the naked crab. Our crustacean arrived lightly battered and fried and accompanied by tartar sauce. The combination was beautiful in its simplicity and left us wanting another. Instead, we went with the roasted pork belly.

Here, chef Cai Lindeman (formerly of the Michelin-rated The Dabney in Washington, D.C.) revealed his understated creativity and sense of humor. Richly fatty pork belly arrived on a bed of charred cucumber, pickled mustard seeds, grilled onions, and radicchio. A dash of vinegar bound all these flavors together in a playful interpretation of a frankfurter accompanied with pickles, relish, and mustard. We wrapped our meal up with a sinful slab of lemon pound cake garnished with basil-infused blackberry compote.

Noona’s offers the wholesome yet uncomplicated casual dining that Baltimore needs—unfussy presentations, bright flavors, reasonable prices, and the deft hand of a good chef to bring them together. We’d like to see a bit more Italian-inspired focus on the wine list to support the flavors coming from the kitchen, but that’s a minor quibble for a restaurant with no fine-dining aspirations.

NOONA’S 1203 W. Mt. Royal Ave. 410-424-0857. HOURS: Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-9 p.m.; Tues.-Wed. 5-9 p.m.; Thurs.-Fri. 5-10 p.m.; Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-9 p.m. PRICES: Small plates: $7-10; pizza and entrees: $11-15; desserts: $3.50-8. AMBIANCE: Trendy casual.

OPEN

Bon Fresco: This homegrown coffee-and-carb chain—which has shops scattered everywhere from Columbia to Beltsville—opened its first Baltimore location in the Inner Harbor last week. Dooby’s owner Phil Han, whose father-in-law founded the chain in 2008, is spearheading the new shop between Pratt and Lombard streets. His team will follow Bon Fresco’s recipes, highlighting stuffed sandwiches on house-baked ciabatta rolls. (Standouts include the Tuscan Chicken with grilled veggies and famous London Broil topped with red onions and dijonaise.) In addition, the cafe offers breakfast sandwiches, salads, soups, DIY grain bowls, house pastries, and tons of coffee drinks.

Bentley’s Restaurant, Bar, and Lounge: Adding to Charm City’s recent jazz renaissance is this new restaurant and live music venue in Mt. Vernon. On the heels of Keystone Korner’s debut in Harbor East, Bentley’s is now officially open on Antique Row—offering a comfort food menu and weekly jazz, soul, and R&B performances. Diners can tap their feet along to the live soundtrack while enjoying dishes such as beef brisket in a red-wine demi glace, filet mignon topped with crabmeat, and crispy skin salmon with sweet potato mash. Bar snacks include Old Bay wings, peach-glazed shrimp, and Baja fish tacos.

DAYTIME DINING:

Noona’s: Speaking of Han, his pizza spot in Bolton Hill is now open for lunch. As MICA students and faculty return to the neighborhood for the fall semester, the restaurant is now open at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Friday. To accommodate those with limited lunch breaks, Noona’s will feature pub-style service during the day (diners pay at the bar and have their food brought to them) with featured dishes including the house burger, a tomato and mozzarella sandwich, and a farro grain bowl with soft boiled egg and late-summer herbs and veggies.

Topside: Hotel Revival’s rooftop restaurant is also launching daytime service this fall. Beginning Thursday, September 19, Topside will open from 7-10:30 a.m. for breakfast and then reopen from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for lunch. Executive chef Scott Hines’ breakfast menu will include egg white frittatas and grilled French toast with chantilly cream, while the lunch lineup will feature classic Maryland crab soup and an ancient grains salad with pickled fennel. The first day of the new service just so happens to coincide with Moveable Feast’s Dining Out for Life fundraiser, which donates 25 percent of proceeds from participating restaurants to feeding locals in need.

COMING SOON

Roll Ice Cream & Coffee: Great news for sweet tooth fiends in Mt. Vernon. Highlandtown staple Roll Ice Cream & Coffee is bringing its customizable confections to the neighborhood with a new stall at Mount Vernon Marketplace. Opening on Saturday, August 31, the spot will offer its made-to-order treats that freeze a liquid ice cream base on a subzero plate before mixing in toppings and rolling it up in a cup or waffle taco. Although add-ins can be mixed and matched, co-owners Jason Werner and Jessica Reyes also offer house creations like the popular “Couch Surfer”—which tops a chocolate base with potato chips and caramel popcorn. In keeping with the local feel, the owners also collaborate with area purveyors like Wight Tea Co. and Ceremony Coffee to create their matcha and coffee flavors. Stop by the grand opening from 2-6 p.m. this weekend to sample signature ice cream concoctions and coffee drinks offered exclusively for the grand opening.

Heritage Smokehouse: Industry insiders know George Marsh as the former head chef and butcher at Parts & Labor in Remington, where he specialized in whole-animal butchery and supplied cuts to sister restaurants (including Woodberry Kitchen) and customers in the retail shop up front. “A lot of people are uncomfortable if their meat doesn’t come in a little shrink-wrapped Styrofoam thing,” Marsh told us back in 2016. “I want people to connect with it, see it, get used to it, get comfortable with it. Everyone’s gotten so desensitized to what meat is and what it looks like.” Now, the chef is bringing those philosophies to a new spot of his own. Slated to open in the former home of Murphy’s Bar in Govans by the end of the year, the York Road restaurant will offer smoked meats, locally sourced sides, and a family-friendly setting with arcade games.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

8/30-9/1: Water Song Pop-Up at R. House
Head to R. House sometime during the long Labor Day weekend to get a taste of Yunnan, China by way of Remington. Water Song will be setting up shop in the food hall’s rotating pop-up stall to serve authentic Mixian rice noodles in a tasty broth with pickled mustard greens, a touch of meat, and lots of chili oil.

SHUT:

Minnow: Last weekend, brothers Ben and Jake Lefenfeld served their last orders of crab toast and crispy tofu at this nautical-themed restaurant in Riverside. Open since May 2017, the La Cuchara sister-spot became known for its fish dishes and weekend drag brunches. Although regulars are sad to see Minnow go, the owners aren’t going anywhere. They recently decided it was time for a change and are planning to reopen the restaurant as a new concept called The Hot Dry this weekend. Stay tuned for more details and an exclusive interview with the Lefenfeld brothers on our Local Flavor Live podcast.

OPEN

Fishnet: Summer temperatures always tend to put us in the mood for seafood, and this new destination inside Mount Vernon Marketplace has everything you need to quell your cravings. The College Park staple recently debuted its second location inside the food hall, and its hosting an official grand opening party on July 12 from 4-7 p.m. to celebrate. The menu offers locally caught fish dishes including fried salmon croquettes, tempura-battered catfish and chips, and Baja fish wraps with citrus slaw and garlic sour cream. There are also nods to chef/owner Ferhat Yalçin’s upbringing in Istanbul, where fisherman grill their catch and make it into a sandwich within minutes of pulling it from the sea. Yalçin’s versions of the delicacy—called “Balik Ekmek” in Turkish—include a Faroe Island-grilled salmon sandwich and a local catfish version topped with baby greens and tomatoes.

COMING SOON

Walker’s Tap & Table: Downtown diners (and Hippodrome theatregoers) may remember chef Chad Wells’ innovative dishes at Alewife. During his six-year stint at the now-closed beer bar, Wells became known for his wild boar sliders and pork belly mac-and- cheese fries—which were featured on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. He later moved on to work with the Columbia-based Victoria Restaurant Group, and now, Wells is attached to a new project in his native Howard County. He’s set to head up the kitchen at Walker’s Tap & Table, a seasonal spot slated to open this fall. The menu will feature farm-to-fork fare and scratch-made pizzas fired in the restaurant’s own brick oven. The eatery joins newer concepts including The Turn House and The Brewer’s Art Tavern in the Howard County dining scene.

NEWS

Ekiben Gives Back: We’d be remiss without giving a shout out to the food scene’s favorite steamed bun superheroes this week. Ekiben owners Steve Chu and Ephrem Abebe recently set up shop at the abandoned Old Town Mall in East Baltimore to serve free Neighborhood Bird sandwiches (Taiwanese curry fried chicken thigh topped with spicy sambal mayo, pickles, and fresh herbs) to those in need, as well as passersby. The goodwill initiative is one of many that the Korean fusion restaurant has organized to bolster its mission of giving back to the community. One recent effort has included running a pop-up with Cocina Luchadoras’ Rosalyn Vera after she was the victim of a hate crime.

Sundays Makes its Return: Two years ago, fans of Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon were delighted to learn that owner Phil Han would be opening a doughnut spinoff inside Cross Street Market in Federal Hill. Though the pop-up stall was short lived (it closed after the renovation efforts at the market began), it made its marks with chocolate-topped Berger Cookie and New York bagel-flavored doughnuts. This weekend, Sundays is making its return with a one-day pop-up at Han’s Fat Tiger bar in Broadway Market. Starting at 9 a.m. on Saturday, July 13, the team will serve Boston Cream, Coconut Espresso, and Blueberry Ginger Meringue doughnuts until sell out. Pair the fried favorites with Fat Tiger’s signature coffee drinks and egg sandwiches for a fulfilling—and filling—mid-morning meal.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/14: Bastille Day at Petit Louis Bistro

There’s no better place to celebrate France’s Fourth of July than this Roland Park French bistro. At Petit Louis’ annual bash, enjoy wine, cheese, live music, commemorative t-shirts, and plenty of berets and mustaches to go around. Tickets are $49 and include the special menu, as well as two drinks.

7/14: No-Fun Brunch

Don’t let the name deter you. This booze-free, plant-based brunch is designed for families to enjoy something a little more holistic on their Sunday off. Head to Vent Coffee Roasters to enjoy CBD-infused coffee and health-focused drinks from Baltimore’s own “health-tender” Amie Ward. Of course, there will also be a full-blown brunch menu to pair with the drinks. Chefs from Tom Cat’s Kitchen will prepare vegan dishes such as jackfruit-and-potato hash, Wisconsin grits with crispy onions, watermelon salad with marinated tofu, and maple plantains.

TO 7/31: Crustacean Invasion at Mt. Washington Tavern
To commemorate Maryland’s signature summer dish, this Mt. Washington haunt has created an entire crab-inspired menu running through July. The à la carte list includes a crab and avocado stack, a crabmeat grilled cheese, classic Chicken Chesapeake, crab imperial, and a crab and parmesan-crusted rockfish filet. Grab a drink and head up to the top-level bar to get the full summer experience.

In only a few short months, construction crews have managed to transform the north shed of Broadway Market in Fells Point from a property full of rubble to a bonafide dining destination housing nine local food concepts.

“People like seeing Baltimore City do something meaningful with market spaces,” says Phil Han, the owner of a Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon who is opening two stalls inside the market. “They did a really good job, too. It’s not like they were Band-Aiding or patching up little things. They really found the funding to do something large here, and in a really fast time frame.”

Thanks to Baltimore Public Markets and a team including Development Solutions and PI.KL Studio, the 233-year-old community hub—the city’s oldest existing public market—now boasts a black-and-white aesthetic, more than 100 seats, and a huge outdoor patio in the middle of the square. As stalls begin to open for business (three are expected to be up and running by next week), here are a few things to note.

Vikki’s Fells Point Deli reopens today.

Leading the wave of food concepts making their debut inside the space is veteran vendor Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, a Broadway Market staple since 1983. The beloved breakfast- and-lunch spot officially reopened Tuesday morning at 7 a.m., serving a limited soft-opening menu of its classic diner fare.

“I went from 760 square feet to 320,” owner Vikki Powers said while organizing her stall on Monday afternoon. “So this is going to be an adjustment. We’re probably not going to have the full menu up and running until next week, but we’re trying to get the most important things nailed down.”

One of the most important components of Vikki’s signature sandwiches and breakfast platters is bacon. As the smell of the frying strips permeated throughout the space, Powers broke down the numbers: “We go through about 30 pounds per day,” she said. “So we’ll prep 15 today and do 15 tomorrow.”

The vendor lineup is meant to be a mix of old and new.

Neighborhood regulars will recognize other returning vendors such as Sophia’s Place European Deli, expected to start offering soups and sandwiches by Friday, and Sal’s Seafood, which is slated to serve its first ceviche by early next week.

The veteran stalls are stationed toward the Aliceanna Street entrance, while the new spots are situated on the opposite side of the building. Among them are farmers’ market favorite Thai Street, Hampden-based Indian restaurant The Verandah, Lexington Market mainstay Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, social justice-driven creamery Taharka Bros., and Old Boy—Han’s authentic Korean concept whose kitchen will be headed up by Irvin Seo of the Haenyo pop-up. All of the new concepts are hoping to debut next month.

“It kind of feels like Grand Central Market in Los Angeles,” Han says. “You have the old-school vendors, and then you have some of the new guys coming in and adding this nice balance in the space.”

The all-day bar program will be called Fat Tiger.

Beneath a gleaming skylight in the center of the market is Fat Tiger, Han’s all-day bar concept that sits directly across from Old Boy so that the two can share a kitchen.

“I wanted to incorporate a tiger in some capacity,” Han says of the name. “It was the ’88 summer olympic mascot for Korea, and the tiger is also my Chinese Year sign. We just wanted it to be playful—the idea of a fat tiger isn’t so serious.”

The centerpiece bar will open at 8 a.m. daily, offering cappuccinos, lattes, a New American-inspired weekend brunch menu, and pastries supplied by the Dooby’s team. (Han says that Sundays, his short-lived doughnut pop-up at Cross Street Market, could make a return at Fat Tiger.) There will also be a full menu of beer, wine, and cocktails served all day.

“Fells Point already has a very rich and dynamic bar community,” Han says. “So this is supposed to be more of an amenity bar. If you want that mimosa or Bloody Mary, or if you want to extend your evening and have a nicer cocktail, you can do that with us.”

As temperatures warm up this summer, Han is looking forward to launching a El Tigre—a tiki-inspired play on the Fat Tiger concept that will expand bar service outside to the market’s patio. Though the plan is still in flux, he is toying with the idea of using a shipping container as a homebase for the outdoor bar.

The outdoor patio will be pet-friendly.

Yet another perk of the outdoor space is that it will welcome leashed pets: “We want the residents around Upper Fells, Fells Point, and Patterson Park to make this a destination when they’re out walking,” says Stacey Pack, project manager for Baltimore Public Markets. “We’re also near so many hotels that are pet-friendly, so when folks travel, it’s nice to have the ability to take your animal for a walk and stop to get some coffee and food.”

Aside from water bowls for dogs, the patio will also feature a wooden awning with strung lights, nearly 60 bistro chairs, and six massive communal tables crafted by Station North makerspace Open Works.

The building’s original architecture was preserved in the design.

A hyper-local design team including Sandtown Millworks, Plano-Coudon Construction, Gruver Studios, Goodwood Design, and PI.KL Studio helped to execute the final product, which enhances structural features while adding more modern white tile, black furniture, and hanging lights.

The building’s original interior archways have been preserved, and the arches above the floor-to-ceiling windows—which were previously filled in throughout the ’70s and ’80s—have been restored to their former glory.

With roots dating back to the early 1900s, the building had been vacant for a nearly a decade before construction began last year: “To be able to breathe life into the space and activate it fully is really nice,” Pack says, “especially after it had been sitting vacant for so long.”

The previous Broadway Market vendors operated inside the market’s south shed, which is now being transformed into The Choptank restaurant from Atlas Restaurant Group. Han feels that all of the development adds to the overall vibrancy of the neighborhood.

“I think everyone’s excited,” he says. “Fells Point has historically done well as being this charming neighborhood by the water, so the more it can do to bring people to this area is a huge plus.”

Sure, food trends come and go—but a good cup of coffee never goes out of style. In fact, findings by the National Coffee Association (NCA) suggest that coffee shops are now more popular than ever. A recent NCA study found that out-of-home coffee consumption reached an all-time high of 46 percent in 2017.

We’ve certainly seen that growth in Charm City, where local coffee shops continue to crop up in every neighborhood. In an effort to narrow down the options, we’ve categorized a list of the area’s top java joints. Whether you’re searching for quick caffeine fix, or a fancy French press to start your morning, here’s where to fuel up.

ON-THE-GO GRINDS

Charmington’s: Though it’s been around for nearly a decade, this Remington hangout gained its claim to fame in 2015—when former president Barack Obama stopped in for lunch. (Still today, there’s a chair marked “President Obama Sat Here” at one of the front tables.) Popular pick-me-up: The current menu plays up fall flavors, with options ranging from matcha to honey-cardamom lattes. 2601 N. Howard St., 410-235-5004

High Grounds Coffee Roasters: Highlandtown residents make a habit of stopping into this corner cafe, which is equipped with a beautifully painted mural of the neighborhood on the building’s exterior. Friendly baristas serve up craft drinks (think mochas, lattes, chai, and steamers) using blends that the shop roasts in-house six days per week. Popular pick-me-up: Check out the seasonal fall favorites, including a pumpkin chai latte and an Autumn spice coffee. 3201 Eastern Ave.

Patterson Perk: No picnic in the park is complete without sustenance from this neighborhood mainstay, which has been serving up signature sips and snacks for nearly two decades. Popular pick-me-up: The specialty drink menu is particularly eye-catching, boasting peanut butter cup, peppermint patty, and “Tuxedo” (dark and white chocolate) lattes. 2501 Eastern Ave., 410-534-1286

Park & Perk: Be on the lookout for this Italian Vespa Ape scooter-turned-coffee cafe on wheels. Owner Matthew Fouse—of Baltimore Rat Czar fame—peddles local Zeke’s coffee blends in iced and hot varieties. Popular pick-me-up: Look out for drip coffees, lattes, cappuccinos, mochas, and other seasonal java drinks.

Taps Fill Station: Grab your growler and head to this destination inside Mt. Vernon Marketplace, which fills reusable containers with beer, wine, olive oil, and a selection of cold-brew coffees from its 30 taps. Popular pick-me-up: Among the local options is a cold brew sourced by Ceremony Coffee Roasters, which is headquartered in Annapolis. 520 Park Ave., 484-998-8277

STUDY SPOTS

The Bun Shop: Worldly eats and drinks (think Vietnamese iced coffee and Paraguayan empanadas) fill the menu at this modern-industrial cafe, which operates two city locations and is preparing to unveil a third in Towson this fall. Popular pick-me-up: The spot features a daily rotating house drip, as well as more complex cups like a honey macchiato, and traditional Chinese yuanyang drink that mixes coffee with milk tea. Multiple locations including 239 W. Read St., 410-989-2033

Bird in Hand: Since its debut two years ago, this Charles Village bookstore-cafe has become a go-to for Johns Hopkins University students and neighborhood locals alike. A collaborative project from Woodberry Kitchen and The Ivy Bookshop, Bird in Hand spotlights craft coffees and teas, a top-notch pastry program, and its own 2,500-title collection. Popular pick-me-up: Look out for a few new fall offerings, including a lovely lavender cappuccino. 11 E. 33rd St., 410-243-0757

Cunningham’s Cafe and Bakery: Students frequently flock to this trendy Towson spot for brain food like crème fraiche pancakes, avocado toast, and yogurt with house-made granola. Popular pick-me-up: Move over, pumpkin spice. Cunningham’s serves a Nutella latte, mixed with a shot of espresso and special hazelnut syrup. 1 Olympic Place, 443-339-7750

OneDo Coffee Roasters: Longtime Canton residents Gloria Hwang and James Park opened the doors to this community hangout in 2018, and they’ve been serving up house roasts, signature teas, and seasonal specialties ever since. Pro-tip: stop in for lunch to enjoy a colorful salad or pressed panini. Popular pick-me-up: Cortado with whole milk. 913 S. Lakewood Ave.

Order & Chaos: In 2016, local marketing firm Planit Agency unveiled this shop adjacent to its modern offices on Key Highway in South Baltimore. Order a Belgian waffle and get comfy with your laptop in the back study area, which is equipped with communal tables and ample white boards. Popular pick-me-up: The new wave of seasonal sips includes a spiced black tea latte, turmeric pumpkin-spice latte, and the “Pumpkin Fluff Spectacular”—a fall-inspired espresso drink complete with candy corn-infused marshmallow fluff. 1401 Key Highway, 410-244-1111

Pitango Bakery and Cafe: A spinoff of popular dessert destination Pitango Gelato, this Fells Point cafe features coffees, teas, pastries, and a variety of sandwiches on fresh-baked breads. Popular pick-me-up: The spot has become known for its traditional affogato, which drowns a scoop of gelato in rich sipping chocolate. 903 S. Ann St., 443-676-6447

HOT HANGOUTS

Aveley Farms Coffee: Focused on educating patrons about how, exactly, their coffee ends up in their cup, this Harbor East hangout serves its own globally-inspired blends, as well as collaborative options from other local roasters including Keffa Coffee downtown. Popular pick-me-up: Try the new Autumn Spiced Latte to ring in the season. 1400 Aliceanna St. 443-465-8057

Baby’s on Fire: Stop into this Mt. Vernon haven to flip through bins of vinyl while indulging in your daily dose of caffeine. There are also plenty of scones, muffins, pastries, and sandwiches to choose from during breakfast and lunch. Popular pick-me-up: Sample the shop’s dark chocolate-infused Hair Bender blend sourced by Stumptown Coffee Roasters in Portland, OR. 1010 Morton St., 443-885-9892

Ground & Griddled: Hampden locals were devastated when owner Dave Sherman closed Café Cito in the neighborhood last year. But, luckily, Sherman is still slinging coffee not too far away at this spot inside R. House. The coffee program—in addition to the Instagram-worthy biscuit sandwiches—keeps regulars coming back. Popular pick-me-up: G&G carries Stumptown’s original and nitro cold-brews on draft year-round. 301 W. 29th St., 443-681-1901

Dovecote Café: Grab your morning joe at this beloved Reservoir Hill anchor, which maintains its motto of being a “community first and cafe second.” (Insider’s tip: try the peach upside-down cake.) Popular pick-me-up: Dovecote features an array of small-batch coffees that pay homage to the owners’ backgrounds. Among them is Brewklyn Grind Coffee Roasters from co-owner Aisha Pew’s native Brooklyn. 2501 Madison Ave., 443-961-8677

Hanover & Hughes Collective: Located behind the Vision co-working complex in Federal Hill, Hanover & Hughes features garage-style doors, a thriving green wall, and lounge seating for guests to sip drinks made with local Ceremony Coffee. Popular pick-me-up: You can’t go wrong with an espresso, Americano, latte, cold brews, or pour-overs. 15 W. Hughes St.

Red Emma’s Bookstore Coffeehouse: Curl up with a good read at this cooperative-run bookstore. On top of being a venue for various readings and arts events, the cafe serves vegetarian eats paired with its own house-roasted Thread Coffee. Popular pick-me-up: If you’re in the mood for a boozy beverage, add a shot of rye, vodka, or vanilla rum to any of the café’s featured drinks. 1225 Cathedral St., 443-602-7611

Square Meal: The all-day cafe inside Mt. Vernon’s Hotel Revival boasts modern tiled floors, wooden accents, and a killer coffee program. Pair the sophisticated drinks (including a peach matcha garnished with pink peppercorns) with the locally sourced sandwiches, salads, and dinner plates. Popular pick-me-up: Fuel up for your day with the signature turmeric-ginger-carrot juice cappuccino.101 W. Monument St.

CRAFT COFFEES

3 Bean Coffee: This inviting Federal Hill spot takes an ultra-local approach, serving Dangerously Delicious pies, Stone Mill pastries, and Kinderhook snacks. Enjoy the neighborhood vibe while sipping various coffees and loose leaf teas. Popular pick-me-up: A specialty drink menu lists seasonal sips including lavender and honey graham lattes. 209 Key Highway, 410-216-3339

Ceremony Coffee: At this trendy coffee chain with locations in Annapolis, Mt. Vernon, and Harbor Point, sip creative concoctions that make use of beans from as far as Guatemala and Ethiopia. Popular pick-me-up: New libations like the “Falling Leaves” (espresso, maple, hazelnut, and autumn spices) will be sure to put you in a seasonal mood. Multiple locations including 520 Park Ave., 443-835-1659.

Greenmount Coffee Lab: The worker-owned cooperative behind Red Emma’s has launched this sister-spot inside arts incubator Open Works in Station North. The new space specializes in locally sourced snacks and vegan donuts, and serves as an expansion of the collective’s wholesale coffee business Thread Coffee. Popular pick-me-up: Modernize your morning with Greenmount’s specialty Goth Latte—a dark gray mix of activated charcoal, vanilla syrup, coffee and milk. 1400 Greenmount Ave., 410-862-0921.

Roggenart: The praise keeps on coming for this Columbia shop, featuring fresh-baked pastries, rolls, pretzels, and baguettes. The Falls Road shop, whose name translates to “the art of rye” in German—also features an array of European coffees and teas. Popular pick-me-up: The café freddos (Italian iced lattes) are described on the menu as “liquid hugs for your brain.” 6476 Dobbin Center Way, Columbia.

Sophomore Coffee: Part of the shared dining complex that houses Fadensonnen and Larder in Old Goucher, this inclusive coffee shop offers a seasonal program with blends from Brooklyn, New York-based Partners Coffee Roasters. Co-owners, and veteran baristas, Kris Fulton and Ann Travers Fortune incorporate their extensive coffee knowledge into their house-drips, espressos, and flash brew options. Popular pick-me-up: The Shakerado. 2223 Maryland Ave.

Spro Coffee: While gallivanting around the Avenue in Hampden, take a load off at this cozy shop, which sources its “progressive” blends from growers across the country and roasts its coffee in house. Snag a seat inside, or hang out beneath the twinkling lights on the back patio while fueling up. Popular pick-me-up: The international-inspired offerings include Thai tea, Vietnamese iced coffee, and spicy Mexican hot chocolate. 851 W. 36th St., 410-243-1262

Vent Coffee Roasters: This homegrown roaster has finally settled into its new digs at Union Collective. Swing by to sample next-level blends from as far as Ethiopia, Colombia, Honduras, and Kenya. Popular pick-me-up: Enhance your cold brew, macchiato, or Americano with banana or lavender-flavored simple syrups. 1700 W. 41st St.

RELIABLE ROASTS

Artifact Coffee: A homey vibe permeates this rustic Clipper Mill haunt, which continues James Beard Award-winning chef Spike Gjerde’s sustainable mantra with its regionally sourced snacks, salads, and pastries. Popular-pick-me-up: Latte art abounds at Artifact, which makes use of a mocha-java “Hologram” blend with notes of chocolate and fruit sourced from Counter Culture Coffee in North Carolina. 1500 Union Ave., 410-235-1881

Cafe Latte’da: This gem of a spot in Fells Point has become a go-to for morning jo, blended smoothies, and local Diablo Doughnuts. Grab you average order, or step outside of the box with an espresso, macchiato, or cafe au lait. Popular-pick-me-up: The “Dirty Hippie” (chai and espresso) or “Almond Joy” with almond, coconut, and chocolate. 1704 Aliceanna St.

Common Ground: Boasting hand-painted murals and artsy chalkboard menus, this inviting Hampden hangout makes use of local grinds from the likes of Ceremony Coffee Roasters and Zeke’s Coffee. Enjoy grab-and-go fare including the shop’s fan-favorite muffins in flavors like pumpkin cream cheese and lavender honey. Popular pick-me-up: A mean masala-chai latte or a signature smoothie combining chai, peanut butter, and banana. 819 W. 36th St., 410-235-5533

The Daily Grind: Fells Point residents make this shop a part of their morning routine. Stop in for blended chai lattes and smoothies, as well as classic coffees with an array of flavored syrups (think coconut, pineapple, and Irish cream). Popular pick-me-up: For an extra boost of energy, try the “Jitter Machine,” a mix of espresso, chocolate, and cream. 1720 Thames St. 410-558-0399

Dooby’s: Whether you’re in search of a steamy bowl of ramen or warm cup of coffee this season, this Korean-inspired Mt. Vernon favorite has got you covered. Popular pick-me-up: If you’re a matcha fan, try Dooby’s green matcha latte served either iced or warm. 802 N. Charles St., 410-609-3162

Park Café & Coffee Bar: Bolton Hill coffee fiends rejoiced when this neighborhood café reopened under new ownership last year. Luckily, the shop hasn’t changed much, and still serves its signature drinks, soups, sandwiches, and house-baked goods. Popular pick-me-up: Customize your cup with house-made syrups in flavors ranging from maple and caramel to lavender and honey-thyme citrus. 132 McMechen St., 410-225-9282

Teavolve: Dive into a good book or catch an open mic night at this Harbor East eatery known for its coffees, smoothies, and light fare. Popular pick-me-up: Tea lovers enjoy its lengthy loose leaf list that includes many green, black, chai, oolong, and infusion options. 1401 Aliceanna St., 410-522-1907

Zeke’s Coffee: Locals can’t get enough of this Hamilton coffee institution, which recently settled into larger digs on Harford Road. Swing by to check out the new cafe, or look out for Zeke’s roasts at multiple farmers’ markets and restaurants throughout the state. Popular pick-me-up: The Charm City blend—which is meant to pay homage to the diversity of the area—mixes various beans with an Italian-roasted base. 4719 Harford Road, 410-254-0122

When it comes to naming his restaurants, Phil Han tends to get personal. Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon is a nod to his nickname as a young boy. Cocktail bar Sugarvale is a reference to the street that he grew up on. And forthcoming Broadway Market stall Old Boy pays homage to the classic Korean dishes Han now has a deeper appreciation for as an adult. His newest spot Noona’s—meaning sister in Korean—is a dedication to his older sister, Christina.

“In really thinking about what to call this place, I thought back to how the name fits within the grander scheme of what we do,” Han says. “‘Noona’ is a term of respect, specifically from a younger guy to his older sister.”

To further the dedication to his only sibling, Han worked alongside Christina on design and menu details for the Midtown-Belvedere restaurant. Even the logo for the new shop mimics his sister’s natural handwriting.

But beyond just their names, the restaurant concepts also serve as a way to give diners a glimpse at Han’s upbringing: “Like every other kid, almost every birthday party that I went to growing up was always surrounded by pizza as this central food,” he says.

Noona’s—which opens today in the former home of Two Boots Pizza in the Fitzgerald Apartment Building—features a menu of signature sourdough-crust pies topped with ingredients like pancetta and shallots, potatoes and leeks, and classic pepperoni and mozzarella. The offerings will also include larger entrees like braised lamb with mint farro or roasted pork loin with broccoli rabe.

“The menu certainly has a big pizza element to it, but we also just wanted it to be a good neighborhood restaurant,” Han says. “That was so key to where we wanted it to go. We thought about how it doesn’t have to be just a pizza place with a few traditional pizzas and garlic knots. It can be something more than that.”

Though there are some tie-ins to the Korean-fusion flavors at Dooby’s, including a kimchi pork belly pie and similar coffee and pastry program, Han says he wanted Noona’s to have its own identity.

The 55-seat space is a bit more modern, with mirrors by Artstar Baltimore, custom furniture by Goodwood Design, hanging ball light fixtures, a mix of individual and communal tables, and an L-shaped bar—which will be staffed by some familiar faces from his other businesses.

“The bar program is going to be very much driven by the Sugarvale team,” Han explains. “However, it’s going to be a touch more approachable. Sugarvale draws a lot more of the cocktail fanatic crowd, whereas this is more about how the drinks pair well with the food.”

Aside from six local brews on tap, the bar will also offer beers, prosecco cocktails, and a rotating list of signature drinks. Among them are a house Negroni and the “Della Tristezza,” which fuses rum, Strega liqueur, lime, grapefruit, pineapple, cane sugar, and molasses bitters.

An outdoor seating area with views of Mount Royal Station is also in the works for the warmer months. Han hopes that Noona’s becomes a go-to for locals commuting from Penn Station, as well as MICA and University of Baltimore students strolling around the area.

“It’s definitely a new neighborhood for us, but the way I think about it, it still feels like home field advantage,” Han says, mentioning that many Midtown residents are regulars at Dooby’s. “This definitely feels like familiar territory, and it feels great to be able to continue those relationships.”

COMING SOON

Broadway Market: Earlier this week, Mayor Catherine Pugh announced six stalls that will be setting up shop inside the renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point this winter. Slated to debut in February, the north shed of the redesigned public market will house local icon Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, farmers’ market favorite Thai Street, social justice-driven ice cream purveyor Taharka Bros., Hampden-based Indian eatery The Verandah, and Old Boy—an authentic Korean concept from Phil Han of Dooby’s. Han will also operate the market’s centerpiece bar, which will feature an elevated coffee program and brunch menu during the day, and draft beer and cocktails in the evening.

Returning to the revamped space will be longtime vendors Sal’s Seafood, Vikki’s Fells Point Deli, and Sophia’s Place, the European cafe and bakery that first opened in the market in 1986. There is still one stall that has yet to be leased. Once the north shed reopens, construction will begin on the south shed, which will house collaborative seafood spot The Choptank from Atlas Restaurant Group and Captain James Landing. 1640 Aliceanna St.

Lyfe Cafe: Be on the lookout for this new dining destination at The Shops at Kenilworth while checking out the mall’s beloved holiday train garden this season. Expected to open in early 2019 (just in time to get started on those New Year’s resolutions), the healthful spot from local owner Penny Seabolt will feature an all-day menu prepared with ingredients that promote physical and mental wellness (think protein pancakes and waffles, a kale detox salad with lemon-tahini dressing, smoothie bowls, and wellness shots). The eatery is designed to accommodate every major diet—including low-calorie, gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan, and vegetarian—and will also offer meal prep services. The 1,788-square-foot cafe will be located next to Wilkes & Riley on the ground level of the recently-renovated Towson shopping plaza. 800 Kenilworth Drive, Towson

OPEN

The Common Kitchen: The food hall trend—which has taken off in Baltimore with spots like R. House, Mount Vernon Marketplace, and the upcoming Whitehall Mill—has now spread to Clarksville with this new communal space that will house 11 artisan makers. A grand opening celebration is scheduled for this Saturday, November 10, where local schools will perform live music and vendors like Scoop & Paddle ice cream and Indian street food shop Namaste Foodie will offer opening day specials. Located near Food Plenty inside the environmentally sustainable Clarksville Commons, the gathering space will mark the first food hall in all of Howard County. Other stalls to look out for include Egyptian eatery Koshary by Misteka, bubble tea purveyor Royaltea, barbecue joint Smokin’ on the Bayou, and Trifecto—a coffee and juice bar specializing in Ceremony Coffee drinks and colorful acai bowls. 12240 Clarksville Pike, Clarksville. 301-854-2090

Pat’s Select Pizza and Asian Garden: These new BYOB restaurants are opening next door to one another at the Crestridge Center in Cockeysville this month. The eateries are expected to be popular lunch destinations in the development, which features two office buildings and one retail property. Pat’s, a fast-casual pizza chain that is now open, features its signature brick-oven pies alongside flatbreads, burgers, salads, and a lengthy list of pasta dishes. Slated to debut next week, Asian Garden will highlight Chinese, Japanese, and Thai staples ranging from sushi to bowls of lo mein and pad thai. 10151-10155 York Road, Cockeysville

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/12: Sweat: Our World, Your Stage
Everyman Theatre is known for bridging the gap between the food and theater world. The downtown showhouse is continuing that creativity with a Veteran’s Day event at Checkerspot Brewing that ties into the themes of Everyman’s current production, Sweat—a slice-of-life drama about steel mill workers facing a plant shutdown who routinely gather at their neighborhood bar. Make your way to the South Baltimore brewery to sip craft beers while watching scenes from the play, and listening in on a conversation comparing the themes in the script to the current hardships facing our own neighbors. Ten percent of all ticket proceeds will benefit South Baltimore-based nonprofit The Baltimore Station, which works to support homeless veterans and reintegrate them into the workforce. 1399 S. Sharp St. 6-8:30 p.m. $15

11/16: Intercostal Breakdown
Fittingly named after the anatomical term that means “situated between the ribs,” this one-night-only barbecue pop-up, hosted by food writer Amy Langrehr of Charm City Cook, will feature smoked ribs cooked on custom-built cages and grills. Head to Monument City Brewing in Highlandtown to sample meats prepared by chef Patrick Morrow of South Point and chef Damian Mosley of Blacksauce Kitchen. The evening will also feature $5 Monument City beers all night, and Annapolis-based folk rockers Ampersand Stringband playing live from 7:30-9:30 p.m. 1 N. Haven St. Free. 5-10 p.m.

Since opening his Korean-inspired cafe Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon in 2014, Phil Han has witnessed the city’s food scene expand with globally diverse concepts that take diners everywhere from the islands of Thailand to the mountains of Senegal.

“When Dooby’s opened, we played a very fine balancing act of introducing some Korean ingredients, but at the same time making a menu that was a little more approachable for the broader audience,” says Han, who also owns cocktail bar Sugarvale and forthcoming pizza spot Noona’s. “Where we are food-wise as a city has certainly progressed and caught its bearings since then.”

Han made it a priority to reflect that evolution when he was asked to assist with the vendor selection process for the newly renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point. It was announced today that the revamped north shed of the 232-year-old property—between Fleet and Aliceanna streets—will house 10 stalls, both old and new, when it reopens in early 2019.

Aside from new locations for Connie’s Chicken & Waffles, Taharka Bros. Ice Cream, Thai Street, and The Verandah, veteran vendors Sal’s Seafood, Sophia’s Place, and Vikki’s Fells Point Deli will make up the market. Han himself also plans to introduce two new concepts, an all-day centerpiece bar and an authentic Korean eatery called Old Boy.

The Dooby’s spinoff will feature bar seating that allows diners to engage with their servers and learn more about the authentic dishes that Han grew up with. He mentions homestyle options like tonkatsu, a deep-fried pork cutlet, and dakbokkeumtang, spicy chicken braised with vegetables and spices.

“You’ll certainly see modern interpretations throughout the menu,” he says. “But it’s still built so that if my parents were to come in with their friends they would very much feel at home with the dishes that were presented.”

While partially inspired by a classic Korean action film, Old Boy’s name also pays homage to the idea that, as Han has grown older, has has developed a deeper appreciation for the classic dishes that he grew up eating with his family.

“I used to be that kid who would bring a Happy Meal into Korean restaurants,” he recalls. “Now I realize that the food my mom cooked when I was younger is the food that I’m craving more often. This is what I want to eat, and it’s a return of a deeper appreciation and representation of where I came from.”

Not far from Old Boy’s stall will be Han’s yet-to-be-named bar, which will offer an array of cappuccinos and lattes in the morning, as well as house made pastries and its own New American-style brunch menu. Situated under a gleaming skylight, the bar will also serve a menu of beer, wine, and cocktails during the evening hours.

Though they’re only a few hundred square feet, the goal is for both concepts to have distinct and inviting styles—which will be executed by a hyper-local design team that includes PI.KL Studio, Goodwood Design, and Sandtown Millworks.

“With Old Boy, you’ll see a little bit of homage to that old-school Korean look, which generally lends itself to a lot of natural wood tones,” Han says. “We just really want to create this warm space where it feels inviting to come over and sit down.”

The redesigned north shed, which has sat vacant for more than a decade, is expected to debut in February. Following in the summer of 2019 will be the premiere of The Choptank, a collaborative seafood concept from Atlas Restaurant Group and Captain James Landing, which will open in the neighboring south shed.

Aside from reactivating the Fells Point space, Han is enthusiastic about what a concept like this means for the future of the Baltimore food scene.

“I think sometimes people get a little bit too fixated on what’s closing,” he says. “But there’s definitely some positivity and growth happening in Baltimore. It’s an exciting time to see some of these younger food guys getting a shot at a bigger game.”

Last year, Stephanie Hsu was assisting the Ekiben team with a pop-up at R. House in Remington when they realized that they needed bubble tea to test in their recipes. Normally, Hsu would make the trip to her favorite Asian market in the county to buy the ingredient, but she was short on time.

She remembered hearing about Po Tung, an ethnic grocery store on the 300 block of Park Avenue downtown, which is situated in the heart of Baltimore’s historic Chinatown.

“That was the first time I had ever been on Park Avenue,” remembers Hsu, the former marketing and events director for R. House. “When I was walking up and down the street, I had this realization of generations that had been there before. There is a history there that is not widely shared and not widely known.”

Feeling inspired, Hsu dug deep into the archives of the Enoch Pratt Free Library and the Maryland Historical Society to learn more about the history of Asian-American immigrants in Baltimore. After months of research, she and other local descendants have formed The Chinatown Collective—a group that works to celebrate the contributions of Asian-Americans and their deep-rooted heritage in the city.

“We want to acknowledge the stories of the immigrants and their families that have come before us,” Hsu says. “But at the same time, it’s about the entire community coming together and saying, ‘This is who we are now.’”

That mission is exactly what the collective is hoping to highlight with the first-ever Charm City Night Market on September 22 from 4-11 p.m. The outdoor block party will extend from the green space at 200 Park Avenue down to Lexington Market—a footprint which overlaps with what was once a bustling hub for Asian-American arts, food, and commerce from the late 1800s to the 1940s.

Coinciding with Asia’s traditional Lunar Mid-Autumn Festival, the free event will feature an illuminated lantern walk along Lexington Street where visitors can peruse visual art, crafts, and jewelry from the likes of Priya Means Love and Filipino-American sister duo Timpla.

Attendees can expect to sample eats from local Asian-fusion vendors including Ekiben, Thai Street, Mera Kitchen Collective, and Mochichi—a new Korean shaved ice concept from Steve Cho who owns Sausage Master inside Lexington Market.

The drink offerings, helmed by Phil Han of Dooby’s and Sugarvale, will spotlight beer and spirits such as sake and soju.

“We want to showcase how Asian ingredients can be incorporated into a drink that’s fun and easy to enjoy,” Han says. “Some of the sakes can add this nice, subtle creaminess to a drink that you might not expect.”

From a food standpoint, Han says that the event is in line with the increased awareness of Asian cuisine in Baltimore.

“Five years ago, the word ‘Korean’ being on a menu was so sparse,” he says. “Now we’re seeing more dishes with Chinese, Korean, and Thai ingredients appearing on New American menus across town. That kind of exposure makes it more encouraging for Asian restaurants to keep growing.”

The festival will also feature live performances from Korean drumming troupe Samulnori and the Baltimore Dance Crews Project, which was founded by two Filipino-American hip-hop dancers who work with local students to choreograph pieces inspired by their feelings on social justice issues.

Hsu credits the inspiration for the event to Kitty Chin, a 90-year-old Asian-American immigrant who vividly remembers the once-bustling Chinatown. After the community eventually faded away, Chin and her late-husband, Calvin, hoped to revive the district to be inclusive of all of the different Asian cultures that had converged in Baltimore by the late ’70s.

“They wanted to bring people back to that area,” Hsu says. “Not as a Chinatown specifically, but as a pan-Asian hub that would then incorporate a lot of the other Asian immigrant communities that were moving into the city at that time. Now we’re taking their vision and expanding on it to reflect what the city looks like now.”

Aside from raising awareness about the venue and its origins, Hsu says that she hopes Asian-Americans of all ages come to the event and feel connected to the rich immigrant culture in the city.

“We hope it expands on the idea that Asian food isn’t just Chinese food,” she says. “There are a lot of different cuisines and nuances, and maybe people will find a new favorite. At the end of the day, I think we’ll be pretty happy if people have a good conversation with someone about their own culture or experience a different culture in a deeper way.”

Up until recently, walking through Cross Street Market has felt like the 172-year-old Federal Hill landmark had all but been forgotten. The twenty-somethings filled the bars across the street, while inside, the majority of stalls stood empty, aside from stalwarts like the giant-beer-peddling Nick’s Oyster Bar and the greasy spoon Steve’s Lunch. It almost didn’t faze you: Another Baltimore icon bites the dust. When do the condos go up?

But after much to-do, the historic market will soon get a second chance, thanks in large part to a $7.3 million redevelopment project by the Towson-based Caves Valley Partners. With renovations currently underway, the development firm is now closing down the Light Street side of the block-long market for 90 days, which will then be reopened in two phases. 

One of our favorite vendors that we got to experience before the market’s major changes was, in fact, a pop-up—one of four to open there this year. As the sister eatery of Mt. Vernon’s Dooby’s, the trendy Sundays bakehouse has spent the past few months hawking the drool-worthy donuts that owner Phil Han first introduced to the city in 2017, with an added focus on fried chicken and the age-old saying: “put an egg on it.”  

Located near the market’s east entrance, the temporary space is open through this weekend, with hopes of returning when renovations are complete. As at Dooby’s, Han has taken the minimal, modern approach to this menu, too. There are the donuts, of course, in a cornucopia of bright colors and fantastical flavors, ranging from the ganache-covered “Berger Cookie,” inspired by Baltimore’s iconic sweet treat, to the savory “NY Bagel,” filled with scallion and jalapeño cream cheese and topped with a heavy dusting of spot-on “everything” seasoning.

Some lovely salads are on hand, too, such as the market greens with pear chunks, dried cranberries, and goat cheese crumbles, but the sandwiches are the stars. The classic fried chicken is the best of its kind in the city, smothered in a smoky ancho chili aioli with bread and butter pickle chips on a buttery brioche bun. And the fried egg avocado BLT has the trappings of a weekend go-to, with its modern take on New York City’s beloved egg-on-a-roll that meets millennials’ insatiable appetite for anything associated with guacamole. (Plus, it’s smeared with herb aioli butter.) And then there are the crinkle-cut fries, which instantly transported us back to our youth. 

With Dooby’s coffee on hand for workday pick-me-ups and hangover cures, this cool carryout spot has been a more-than-welcome addition to the changing face of Federal Hill. And a good sign for what Cross Street Market might become. We sure do hope that they return.

›› SUNDAYS 1065 S. Charles St., 410-424-0857. Hours: Tues.-Sat. 8 a.m.-6 p.m., Sun. 8 a.m.-3 p.m.

“Innovation isn’t only among the famous,” Light City steering committee chair Jamie McDonald said during her opening remarks at FoodLab, which was held at the Columbus Center on Saturday, April 8. “It happens in Baltimore neighborhoods every day.”

The last in a string of conferences held in conjunction with the weeklong light festival highlighted many moving presentations by visiting speakers, but perhaps some of the most compelling conversations were sparked by leaders from right in our backyard, who continue to use food as a tool for unification.

A panel discussion moderated by Dooby’s owner Phil Han brought together Dovecote Cafe co-owner Aisha Pew, Taharka Bros. founder Sean Smeeton, and Terra’s Kitchen CEO Mike McDevitt to share their perspectives on using a food business to make a greater impact on the community.

Pew, who opened the 630-square-foot cafe in Reservoir Hill last year, addressed the necessity of reviving the neighborhood—one of the city’s designated food deserts that lack access to quality grocery stores and dining establishments.

“My partner and I have a fear that Baltimore is on the precipice of becoming Brooklyn or Oakland,” said Pew, a Brooklyn native herself. “What we’re really focused on is how to have a different conversation around gentrification by uniting the community.”

In an effort to redefine the neighborhood, Pew has used the cafe as an outlet to spearhead initiatives like a free pop-up produce stand, baking groups for kids, and events that celebrate the local arts and culinary scenes.

Looking ahead, Pew is hoping to convert one of the neighborhood’s vacant liquor stores into a space that combines a traditional sit-down restaurant with a general store selling spices and produce. A public hearing for the project is scheduled for April 25.

“What makes a neighborhood seem dangerous is when you don’t know who you reside next to,” she said. “So what we did to turn that on its head during our first month in business was we just gave away free coffee. We sat and had conversations and got to know people, and truly allowed them to get to know us.”

Yet another example of a small business making an outspread impact is Taharka Bros., the Hampden-based ice cream purveyor that uses its product as a conversation starter.

“We’re in the business of social change, and ice cream is just our vehicle,” Smeeton said, mentioning its signature flavors that oftentimes have a deeper meaning. (A variety inspired by D. Watkins’ memoir The Cook Up that was released last summer fuses ingredients like apples as a nod to knowledge and education, and pecans to represent planting seeds of self-discovery.)

Taharka—which originated as a nonprofit organization in 2010 and eventually transformed into a for-profit business—provides opportunities for the city’s youth by employing a staff comprised of young adults.

“These young guys are victims of society,” Smeeton says. “We wanted to use the company to make a change so that that they don’t have these problems.”

Though local meal prep service Terra’s Kitchen is mostly web-based, McDevitt says that he doesn’t let that become a barrier in making face-to-face connections. The company—which is headquartered in Canton—continues to partner with local growers and businesses like Tessemae’s and Ceremony Coffee Roasters to raise a general awareness of made-in-Baltimore products.

“This city has a strong desire to become something great,” says McDevitt, who moved to Baltimore from New York City in 2002. “It gave me so much, and I owe it back ten-fold.”

We’ve grown accustomed to seeing Baltimore touted on outlets like Food Network and Travel Channel. But last week, the oh-so-chic publication of Vogue published a travel piece lauding some of our best off-the-beaten-path sights, restaurants, and accommodations.

Penned by lifestyle editor Virginia Van Zanten, the article praises the city as an ideal weekend destination, mentioning that Penn Station is only a quick Amtrak ride away from most major boroughs along the northern East Coast.

“One of the great things about Baltimore is that there isn’t an overwhelming amount to do and see,” the piece reads. “There is more than enough to keep you busy, to be sure, but there isn’t the ‘must see and do it all’ pressure that comes with, say, a weekend in New York City.”

Van Zanten suggests booking a room at Mt. Vernon’s luxe Ivy Hotel, and goes on to list standout sights in neighborhoods like Hampden, Fells Point, and Federal Hill.

While a few of our time-honored treasures were thrown in (any Baltimore travel article would be remiss without mentioning the National Aquarium, the Walters Art Museum, and Camden Yards), the writer also gave shout-outs to not-so-touristy destinations including local businesses Bottle of Bread in Mt. Vernon and The Wine Source in Hampden.

A spotlight was also placed on the city’s thriving culinary scene, with nods to trendy food hall Mt. Vernon Marketplace, cozy coffee corner The Bun Shop, French fine-dining destination Arômes, and Korean-inspired eateries Dooby’s and Ekiben—whose “Tofu Brah” steamed buns and baskets of tempura broccoli were described as “unreal.” Van Zanten even gives kudos to the local kombucha stocked in the mini-fridge at the Ivy.

Noticeably absent was any mention of crab houses or the burgeoning oyster bar scene in Baltimore. In classic Vogue style, Van Zanten stuck with the more bourgeois side of the city and avoided getting her hands dirty. In fact, one Reddit user pointed out something similar, writing “I know it’s Vogue, but that’s literally the most expensive weekend one could spend in Baltimore.”

Still, local businesses were understandably thrilled with the national attention. The owners of Ekiben wrote on Instagram: “What do Beyoncé , the new Gilmore Girls series, Obama’s mom jeans, and Ekiben all have in common? They were all featured in this month’s Vogue.”

Regardless of the magazine’s choices, we’re excited that the local scene is getting some well-deserved recognition. Vogue sums it up best by saying that Charm City “may not be the first place that comes to mind when pondering a relaxing weekend getaway; but it should be.”

WHILE IT’S TRUE THAT PLANET EARTH isn’t actually orbiting any faster than usual (67,000 miles an hour, last time we clocked it), life on Planet Baltimore can feel like a whirlwind. Every day brings a new reality—from neighborhoods being built out of thin air to burgeoning businesses and a constant influx of power players. Nowhere is this warp speed more apparent than on the ever expanding food scene, which shows no signs of slowing down.

“Food trends used to move a lot more slowly before the internet and the rise of this current world of food media,’’ says food and beverage trend expert Kara Nielsen. “People are thinking about food and excited about food in a way we haven’t seen in recent history.’’

As much as we love the explosion, it can be dizzying to decide how best to spend our dining dollars. (According to the National Restaurant Association, there are 11,100 eating and drinking spots in Maryland.) If you’re hungry (and who isn’t?), there’s never been a better time to tap into the culinary Zeitgeist. Steamed buns are all the rage, pizza is proliferating, doughnuts are dominating, and bar food is having a moment.

“With the millennials as one of the biggest audiences buying food,’’ says Nielsen, “we’ll see their interests and values reflected in the trends—exploring and celebrating other cultures, being excited about things that are artisanal or authentic, big sensory flavors, and a good dose of indulgence.’’

On these pages, we explore the 10 trends you need to know about now and the up-and-coming tastemakers who are helping to shape the scene. We also take the pulse of what’s hot—and what’s not—and explore the science of table trends with a foodie forecaster.

Word of warning: Whatever you discover, the nature of trends is that they rise—and they recede. So don’t get overly attached. The Next Big Thing is always waiting in the wings, while another may be on the verge of extinction. So, in the ever fickle, blink-and-you-miss-it world of food, catch these trends at area tables while you can.

Naked Lunch at MOM’s Organic Market

Food that’s good for you can sometimes taste like a dose of medicine. But that’s never the case at the Naked Lunch cafe inside MOM’s Organic Market in Hampden, where seemingly humble ingredients graduate to star status. At lunchtime, queue up for a bodacious sushi bowl with brown rice, miso-roasted tofu, avocado, seaweed, and ginger-sesame dressing. Want to make the memory linger? Browse the miles of aisles to shop for ingredients to re-create the whole shebang at home. 711 W. 40th St., 667-219-2500

The Green Bowl

Bibimbap, mofongo, tostones: Is this a spelling bee or are these menu items from The Green Bowl? We love everything about this Asian/Latin-inspired food truck and its health-conscious cuisine. We’re convinced that the spinach and greens with bean sprouts, carrots, zucchini, and a fried egg will add years to your life. thegreenbowlfoodtruck.com

Zia’s Cafe

If you have a dietary need—be it vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, or paleo—Zia’s has you covered. Smoothies and 100 percent raw cold-pressed juices are menu highlights here. The macaroon smoothie with bananas, dates, raw cacao, maca, coconut, and almond milk tastes sinful but is anything but. Want more of a meal? Go for the Firecracker Wrap with avocado, apples, arugula, jalapeños, and a hit of horseradish for extra heat. Two locations including 13 Allegheny Ave., Towson, 410-296-0799

On the Go Organics

This new Fells Point raw-foods vegan takeout spot features plant-based pressed juices, wraps (we heart the lettuce wraps with collards as the coat), and tasty gourmet desserts. Owner Dwayne Copeland, who apprenticed in California, is a wealth of raw-food knowledge. 600 S. Wolfe St., 415-265-7650

Das Bier Haus

Nowhere is the beer-and-brat trend more evident than the corner Federal Hill bar Das Bier Haus, which opened this past January. The bar fits the bill with more than 60 beers available, including an extensive list of German varieties. For authenticity’s sake (and to make it way more fun), the beers come in half-liter, liter, and two-, three-, or four-liter “das boot” glasses. The pairing wouldn’t be complete without pork or veal sausages from local Binkert’s German Meat Products, served properly with sauerkraut and house-cut fries. 1542 Light St., 443-708-8854

Blue Pit BBQ & Whiskey Bar

While Blue Pit certainly has perfected its barbecue and whiskey selections, the general vibe (especially outside and upstairs) reminds us of a traditional German beer hall. Enjoy a smoked Union Anthem bratwurst, choose from some 50 craft beers, and sit at a communal picnic table to clink drinks with strangers. 1601 Union Ave., 443-948-5590

Snake Hill

How fitting that Snake Hill is across the street from the building that once housed legendary German restaurant Haussner’s. Though there isn’t quite as much art on the walls, Snake Hill pays homage by serving sausage from local makers like Polock Johnny’s and Fat City Craft Meat Co. Innovative toppings result in Vietnamese, Italian, and Peruvian-inspired offerings. Plus, the beer list always feels current and creative. 418 S. Clinton St., 410-469-9003

Brew House No. 16

Though there’s a full menu at this Mount Vernon firehouse-turned-brewpub, the sausage is always a good bet. We love the apple-walnut chicken or the house-made Thuringer-style pork served on a pretzel roll with sauerkraut and sweet hot mustard. Wash it down with a house beer (bonus: owner Ian Hummel studied brewing in Germany) or a crisp Hofbräu München wheat. 831 N. Calvert St., 410-659-4084

Alma Cocina Latina

Walk into this light-filled spot in the Can Company in Canton, and a jungle of plants bursts forth in bloom, while the sound of salsa sets the mood. Don’t feel like you’re in Baltimore? Owner Irena Stein envisioned this refuge from the ordinary and plucked chef Enrique Limardo from her native Venezuela to bring a taste of her motherland to our ’hood. Sidle up to the arepa bar for corn-flour patties bursting with salty ham and caramelized plantains, and imagine that you’re in a lush Latin American locale. Or savor a superb ceviche and feel like you’re on a beach along the Caribbean coast. 2400 Boston St., 667-212-4273

Brown Rice

We love the make-your-own approach, and this rice-bowl emporium brings Eastern flavors to the mix—from spicy, garlicky beef bulgogi to piquant kimchi. Start with a base—which runs the gamut from jasmine rice to kale salad—then pick a protein, and top it off with a variety of veggies. (Pimp your rice with the radish kimchi and shiitake mushrooms.) Add a sauce and, perhaps, a runny egg, to truly branch out your bowl. Two locations including 2404 N. Charles St., 667-303-3256

Ariana Kabob Grill

Never underestimate the power of fare from a food court. At this no-frills spot inside Charles Plaza, the meat is manna. From juicy, sunset-hued chicken kebabs to unexpectedly tender gyro meat, these Middle Eastern flavors awaken the palate with spices that rise on the tongue before being cooled by rice rife with carrots and raisins and a side of tzatziki. 222 N. Charles St., 443-858-1045

Cuba de Ayer

Yes, it’s easier than ever to fly to Cuba from Baltimore these days, but this Latin comfort-food spot (though a bit of a drive) is the next best thing. Consider the succulent oxtail stew and melt-in-your-mouth roast pork known here as pernil. But if you do one thing, order the camarones en aguacate appetizer: shrimp atop an avocado throne drenched in white wine, garlic, and butter. 15446 Old Columbia Pike, Burtonsville, 301-476-9622

Taps Fill Station

From its name to its practice, Taps Fill Station in Mt. Vernon Marketplace has simplified the way we drink. All of Taps’ liquid lovelies are available in draft form, including beer, wine, cider, mead, nitro cold-brew coffee, and even olive oil. The bar makes everything feel more hip. (Our coffee looks and drinks a bit more like a Guinness here.) Plus, everything is available in flights (4-ounce pours of beer and 2-ounce portions for everything else), so we can sample instead of having to commit. Even the simple red-and-white color scheme, with bulbous lights imploring us to “taste,” “order,” and “relax,” forces us to sit back and enjoy the moment. 520 Park Ave., 484-998-8277

Bookmakers Cocktail Club

Bookmakers is always up on the newest cocktail trends, so it’s no surprise that it’s the only bar in the world with Chartreuse Episcopale on draft. The spirit is a fusion of green and yellow Charteuse, a French liqueur with notes of mint (green) and saffron (yellow). The elixir is 47.5-percent ABV and, even just in 1.4-ounce portions, it gives you a very special buzz. 31 E. Cross St., 443-438-4039

Barcocina

Barcocina not only boasts modern twists on Mexican food but also a modern way to pour drinks. With two taps for cocktails and four for wine, the bar features concoctions like the house margarita and Barcocina Lemonade with cucumber-lime vodka, cucumber liqueur, jalapeño simple syrup, lemon juice, and club soda. We can’t think of a more perfect pairing for Barcocina’s picturesque water view. 1629 Thames St., 410-563-8800

Liquid Lib’s

This bar, adjacent to Liberatore’s in a Timonium business park, may not seem like much at first. But buy a wine card (in increments of $10) and peruse its selections of 16 self-pouring taps in the corner. Organized with white wines and clear liquors on the left and reds and darks on the right, the system allows guests to pour to their hearts’ content. 9515 Deereco Road, Timonium, 410-666-8466

Iron Rooster

Although Iron Rooster serves lunch and dinner options, the focus is all-day breakfast, and the brunch offerings encompass everything from brûléed ruby-red grapefruit and breakfast tacos to various Benedicts, as well as biscuits and gravy. Wet your whistle with a Bloody Mary (garnished with pickled asparagus, bacon, an olive, and Old Bay around the rim, it’s a meal unto itself). Then design your own breakfast scramble or order the fried chicken and cornmeal waffles smothered in gravy. Get a refill on your coffee. Sit. Stay. The day is young. Two locations, including 3721 Boston St., 410-762-2100

Bistro Rx

Bistro Rx adds just enough inventiveness to rise-and-shine classics to keep things interesting for repeat customers. The shrimp and grits is a go-to, but if we could only order one dish, we’d choose the breakfast flatbread, topped with bacon, chorizo, tasso ham, white cheddar, and a pile of scrambled eggs. It’s perfect for sharing—in person or on Instagram. 2901 E. Baltimore St., 410-276-0820

Weekend brunch at Ejji Ramen includes this noodle bowl with bacon and corn broth plus sausage, applewood-smoked bacon, a poached egg, tamago (mini omelet squares), and corn.

Ejji Ramen

The Japanese practically invented the one-dish meal, and the Breakfast Ramen Bowl at Ejji Ramen carries on this proud tradition. On weekends, snag a stool at the Belvedere Square Market and order this noodle bowl boasting bacon and corn broth plus sausage, applewood-smoked bacon, a poached egg, tamago (mini omelet squares), and corn. If this doesn’t start your day off right, nothing will. 529 E. Belvedere Ave., 410-435-8688

Dovecote Cafe

This artsy Reservoir Hill cafe makes everything in house, so the rotating weekend brunch menu is understandably compact. That said, what it lacks in quantity it more than makes up for in quality. Recent choices ranged from crab mac and cheese to an exquisite mixed-berry fruit tart that elicited instant ordering envy from nearby noshers. 2501 Madison Ave., #1F, 443-961-8677

Mt. Vernon Marketplace

There’s a beauty in not having to be a committed consumer when we shop here. Do we want pork dumplings at Pinch, Skinny Dippers at The Local Oyster, or a latte at Ceremony Coffee? (Duh—we want it all.) And while here, we might as well browse the trendy togs at The Tomboy Shop, pick up a dozen eggs at Fresh Mondays, and grab specialty salt from Juniper Culinary Apothecary. 520 Park Ave., 888-897-8859

Belvedere Square Market

This Govans marketplace on the site of a onetime peach orchard offers soup (at Atwater’s) to nuts (Pure Chocolate by Jinji)—and everything in between, like artisanal cheese and kombucha. Have guests to impress? Head here for aged strips from Ceriello or just the right rosé from Grand Cru. 529 E. Belvedere Ave., 410-464-9773

Modern Cook Shop

What do you get when you cross a neighborhood gourmet grocer, a coffee bar, and an upscale New American establishment with a concisely curated menu on which every item is first-rate? Andy Gruver’s thoroughly modern Modern Cook Shop, of course. With all the restaurant openings of late, it’s hard to break new ground, but Modern Cook Shop is a trailblazer. 901 S. Wolfe St., 443-627-8032

Baby’s on Fire

Listening to music has been scientifically proved to enhance diner enjoyment, so it makes perfect sense that a coffee bar cafe combined with a record store would hit a high note. The fare (paninis, salads, espresso drinks) doesn’t miss a beat and the vinyl selections for sale (Led Zeppelin, John Coltrane) are a total time warp. 1010 Morton St., 443-885-9892

A symphony of slurping is in full force at Ejji. It’s lunchtime at the Belvedere Square Market ramen shop, and all six stools at the countertop are occupied by hard-core devotees of the ramen revolution. They’re scooping slices of roasted pork belly and springy noodles with chopsticks, inhaling rich broth from wooden ladles, and generally eating with abandon. And they’re not being quiet about it.

Nine miles south, a similar scene unfolds inside the nondescript food court at Charles Towers, where the favored choice is Vietnamese pho from the Mekong Delta restaurant. Somehow, even on an 88-degree May Saturday in a city not exactly known for its adventurous tastes, people are pining for a hot bowl of Asian noodle soup.

“Culturally, it’s an indicator that Baltimore’s scene is getting more advanced in terms of flavor palate,” says Phil Han, owner of Dooby’s in Mt. Vernon, which serves ramen. “Ten years ago, I think ramen here would have been a complete bust, but now you’re finding this awesome foodie audience in town that is supporting things like The Emporiyum food festival. Ramen just happens to be an element of that bigger scene.”

Luan Nguyen and his wife, Tuyen Vo, opened Mekong Delta in a small Saratoga Street row house in 2009 before relocating five years later. Its popularity has not waned despite an uptick in restaurants serving pho and the even more recent arrival of ramen on the noodle scene. “People have found out that [pho] has so many nutrients—it’s good for their health,” says Nguyen. “I often see people who don’t want to give up their bowl. They drink everything until you see the pepper on the bottom. It’s a good sign.”

For Aaron Larrimore, pho—generally made with beef-bone-based broth, beef or chicken, and rice noodles—was his gateway drug to ramen, which is usually pork-based with wheat noodles. “I don’t know why I love eating ramen, I just do,” says the Bolton Hill resident and Dooby’s regular. “I love it because it’s a great mix of ingredients and the flavor is amazing. I never say no to it.”

He’s not alone. Mt. Washington resident Gina Bruno is perched atop a stool at Ejji, which opened last October. “It’s like nothing I’ve tasted before,” she says between slurps. “I like the texture of the noodles and I really love the miso [broth]. It’s comforting and filling and delicious. It’s so good it doesn’t even matter how hot [the weather is].”

These days, pho is associated purely with Vietnam, while ramen is considered an export of Japan. Truthfully, neither country can claim exclusive rights to its (unofficial) national noodle dish. The origins of pho, like many cuisines around the world, are mired in geopolitics. “Given our history with the Chinese going back thousands of years, of course we had noodles,” says Cuong Huynh, a San Diego-based blogger, who runs the website LovingPho.com. “Because of where [Vietnam is] in Southeast Asia, we have a lot of rice instead of wheat, so we use rice noodles. If you look at Asian cuisines, a noodle dish is a meal in itself. So a noodle dish like pho is rarely just a course in a meal; it is the meal. In Vietnam’s culinary history, we probably had something similar to pho in one form or another, but it is believed that not until the French came over did we start to make beef broth with such technique as done in pho.”

Pho—pronounced “fuh,” not “foe”—is made with a lighter broth in the north of the country, as opposed to a darker and sweeter one in the south.

Ramen also can trace its roots to China. It is believed to have arrived in Japan with Chinese tradesmen around the turn of the 20th century. Prepared in multiple ways in different regions of Japan, the bedrock of ramen soup is the noodle, made with wheat flour, water, and kansui, an alkaline mineral-rich water that gives it its yellow color and springy texture.

Despite their similarities, each found a different path to popularity in the United States. Ramen was popularized here in its instant form. Beloved for its ease of preparation and mind-bogglingly low cost, you’d be hard-pressed to find a former college student who doesn’t (usually fondly) recall capping a night of partying by devouring a bowl of ramen noodle soup in a dorm room. Its rise from penny-saving pantry filler (remarkably, a six-pack can still be bought for a buck) to the main attraction at New York hotspots like Ippudo and Momofuku is less clear. But if anyone knows, George Solt does. An assistant history professor at New York University, he completed his doctorate in the history of modern Japan at the University of California, San Diego. His dissertation was entitled, “Taking Ramen Seriously: Food, Labor, and Everyday Life in Modern Japan.” “Sushi became the representative food of Japan in the 1980s abroad, when Japan was a major business competitor to the U.S.,” he told The New Yorker in 2014. “The whole embrace of Japanese popular culture in the last 10 years is because Japan is no longer an economic threat. That image got transposed to China. It used to be Japan’s burden.”

Pho arrived in the U.S. in the same manner much of our ethnic food did—with the influx of immigrants. “Vietnamese refugees came to the U.S. in waves that stretched over almost two decades,” says Lovingpho.com’s Huynh, who was among the first to arrive here after the end of the Vietnam War in 1975. “The first wave, like us, we came over and basically had nothing to eat from the homeland. It was not until the late ’70s and early ’80s that the second and third waves came over.” Critical mass gave pho vendors the customers to survive. Today, there are almost 2,000 pho restaurants spread out across the U.S. and Canada, according to PhoFever.com. It lists 62 spots in Maryland, ranking the state ninth for the country as a whole.

In the cramped kitchen at Dooby’s, a Korean-inspired coffeehouse and restaurant on North Charles Street, chef Tim Dyson grabs a fistful of ramen noodles from a package and drops them into one of four small strainers, which he then lowers into an industrial-sized pot of boiling water. “I feel like the next movement in food is very much toward the everyday diner,” he says while waiting for the noodles to cook. “Ramen fulfills that. It’s a little bit of starch, a little bit of protein—that’s the comfort food that people want.”

Dyson doesn’t try to hide the fact that he doesn’t make his own noodles. It’s no secret that almost all ramen shops get theirs from the same supplier: Sun Noodle. The company uses 11 different types of flour, depending on the customer’s requirement for texture or taste, and makes 90,000 ramen portions a day at its factories in Hawaii, California, and New Jersey.

Dooby’s gets its fresh noodles in twice a week. That’s the easy part. Making tonkotsu, or pork-bone-based broth, is by far the more time-consuming portion of the process. Dyson uses seaweed, mushroom caps, and pigs’ feet for the gelatin and the base of the stock. He adds roasted chicken bones and pork necks, and then finishes it with bacon scraps. It takes about two days to prepare before simmering throughout dinner service. Tare, or seasoning (miso, soy, and salt are the most popular), is placed on the bottom of the bowl, which is filled with broth, then topped with the noodles, protein, and garnishes such as a soft-boiled egg. For a dish that emerges from the kitchen so quickly after it’s ordered, it’s hardly a fast food to prepare.

“We’ve found a ramen that we think is a good fit for who the audience is today,” Dooby’s Han says. “We don’t go super heavy on the pigs’ feet when we make our broth, because we don’t want to do overkill on the sticky-lip feel, which you’d find in a very classic, heavy pork tonkotsu ramen where you get a sticky, gelatinous feel. Ramen is very much a self-interpreted dish. Ramen shops in Austin, TX, top it with Texas-style brisket. Our take is more Korean, and not classically Japanese. We’ll feature our house-made kimchi as a garnish, which brightens the bite.”

At Ejji, chef and co-owner Ten Vong serves miso corn and Malaysian curry broth, in addition to the traditional tonkotsu. The Baltimore-born chef returned to Baltimore from New York, where he estimates there are 60 ramen shops. (For comparison, United Kingdom newspaper The Independent recently reported that there are 4,000 in Tokyo, and 80,000 throughout Japan.) “We are doing a more nontraditional take,” says Vong, who also gets his noodles from Sun. “A lot of the younger people are driving it. I see a demand for it everywhere, especially in markets where they don’t have any. Baltimore [has] just started getting dedicated ramen shops.”

While the dish has been on the crowded menus of Asian grab-bag restaurants like Nina’s Espresso Bar on Calvert Street and Shiso Tavern in Canton, Baltimore didn’t have its first dedicated ramen shop until TenTen opened in 2014. The Mt. Vernon shop offers a wide variety of traditional ramen, as well as specialty bowls like curry and chop chashu men. Ejji soon followed, and now the dish is popping up in more and more restaurant kitchens around town—with some creative interpretations.

“I love ramen, but I make pasta and we have a wine bar,” says Cyrus Keefer, executive chef at 13.5% Wine & Food in Hampden. His solution? An Italian ramen hybrid. “I make my ramen broth with our salumi. I take all the ends and utilize the umami from the salumi making. I use black garlic for depth. I take the capellini and poach it in baking soda water to give it the same tone as you would get from the ramen noodles, and then we finish it with pickled mushrooms and bacon. The result tastes like ramen.”

When Jason Chang opened his family’s sixth Katana sushi restaurant in Canton earlier this year, he made one addition to the menu: ramen. The only problem was that neither he nor his parents knew how to make it. So they got a lesson and some pre-made frozen broth from their food distributor, JFC International. “Now we buy pork bones and make our own fresh broth that we simmer in the back for three or four days,” he says. “I got much better feedback from the customers. I felt the business would do good in a city environment with young people, because people drink and they eat noodles.”

That’s one of the reasons Saigon Today opened just a few blocks east in Canton. The fact that the neighborhood, better known for cheap pizza, now boasts a ramen shop and a pho joint says something about the growing popularity of noodles. In Mt. Vernon, next-door neighbors each offer pho. While it’s one of many items on the menu at Minato, it’s a star at Indochine, whose co-owner, Amy Nguyen, uses pork bone’s beef marrow, ginger, star anise and cinnamon sticks in her stock. Her rice noodles are supplied by a California vendor.

Nguyen was 8 years old when she arrived here from Vietnam in 1987, a year younger than aforementioned pho pro Luan Nguyen (no relation) was when he survived a harrowing three-day boat trip from Vietnam to Thailand before ultimately landing in Rochester, NY. He became a high-school English teacher and taught in Baltimore’s Cherry Hill neighborhood before returning to Vietnam to teach for another seven years. He and his wife, Tuyen, moved back to Baltimore in order for their sons to have an American education. They opened Mekong Delta so they could work together, and it quickly became Baltimore’s go-to spot for pho, earning a reputation for quality and authenticity.

“I was very impressed with the first taste of the broth,” food blogger Victoria Tran wrote in her 2013 review of Mekong’s pho. A flight attendant from San Francisco, Tran has made it her mission to eat a bowl of pho in all 50 states. She’s made it to 27 so far, and recorded her findings on her blog, PhoAcrossAmerica.com. “It was a tad salty, but very good. I cut the saltiness with lime and discovered that the broth, a little darker than what I’m used to, contained a masterful blend of spices. It had a slight sweetness and a rich array of flavors. . . . Overall, it was really a great bowl of pho. It was so flavorful and warm, like a Vietnamese hug.”

That’s not a coincidence. A small, soft-spoken woman, Tuyen Vo learned to cook from her grandmother in Vietnam. She listens as her husband translates.

“What’s the key to making great pho?” he relays. She waits for a moment, and then answers in Vietnamese, as a smile spreads across her face.

“Just a feeling,” she replies.

Noodle Know-How

There’s no one way to eat ramen and pho. While some noodle lovers might dig in without a plan, others take more of a step-by-step approach. Here are the expert’s suggestions on how to slurp:

1. Much as you’d taste an entrée before adding salt or pepper, sample the broth before adding hot sauce, hoisin, or anything else for that matter. Says Phil Han of Dooby’s: “That will tell you if the quality is there. Can you find the true spirit of the broth?”

2. Grab the ladle with your left hand, the chopsticks with your right. Use the chopsticks to taste the noodles first, then the ladle to sip the broth. (Bring your mouth down to the chopsticks over the bowl, not your chopsticks up to your mouth. In other words, sticking your face in the bowl is considered kosher.)

3. After trying the noodles and broth, mix everything up. Now, feel free to dive into the protein and garnishes.

4. Remember, slurping is perfectly fine! (In fact, slurping—and burping—is considered a compliment to the chef.)

5. While no one knows why, it’s customary to leave a little broth at the bottom of the bowl, which is the norm in Asia (though very much optional here).

A Spanish telenovela, or soap opera, blaring on the flat-screen along with the trickling of water from a six-foot fountain of the Virgin Mary provide welcome distractions while we wait for our food. Soon, our plate of tacos arrives with neat piles of carne asada, or beef, and marinated al pastor pork, sprinkled with chopped cilantro and onions, atop small, round corn tortillas, doubled up. They are surrounded by slices of lime and a side of grilled cactus and spring onions, as well as two kinds of fresh salsa—one made with green tomatillos, and the other a deep-red concoction of fiery chilies. This simple but delicious finger food satisfies our appetites for the next few hours—all for under $6.

A new restaurant this is not, but rather some back tables in the Mexican grocery store Mercado Cinco de Mayo on Eastern Avenue. Exploring the place, we walked past fresh produce—mangoes, yucca, and tomatillos—piled high; a butcher’s department heavy on the pork and beef; through back rooms stocked floor to ceiling with Mexican spices, assorted dried chilies, rice, and a whole wall of beans; before finally stumbling upon these secluded dining tables serving specialties from south of the border. Herein lies the draw of an ethnic grocer—a cool find awaits around every aisle. And apparently the word is out. Stopping by for takeout, Siri Serngadichaivit, a Washington, D.C., native whose brother lives in the neighborhood, says, “I love it here—their food is authentic.”

As a port city, Baltimore has always welcomed immigrants. After the English and Germans came Italians, Poles, Russians, Ukrainians, Czechs, and Greeks who established their own communities within the city. A Baltimore landmark like Little Italy, one of the few ethnic enclaves that has managed to stand the test of time, has largely survived as a popular dining destination. But there are other ethnic pockets that have sprung up as well, such as the Hispanic community in Upper Fells Point, which, given the latest statistics, is not surprising.

In more recent years, many Hispanic immigrants—mostly from Mexico and Central America—have moved into the area, joining previous generations of immigrants. A natural result of such cultural collision is a broadening of the culinary landscape, as newer immigrants establish a foothold, creating the diversity for which Baltimore is fast becoming known.

“Since diners are starting to be more adventurous, chefs are really pushing the flavor profiles in our dishes,” says Dooby’s executive chef Tim Dyson, who frequents Cinco de Mayo for its chilies and tortas. “Baltimore will always be a blue-collar town, but it’s neat to see people stepping outside of their comfort zones and seeking out ethnic-specific foods.”

Both restaurants and immigrant communities rely on the city’s many ethnic grocery stores to supply them with spices and special ingredients. As diners’ palates are becoming more daring, these mom-and-pop shops supply the sights, smells, and tastes of other cultures.

“Walking through these aisles is like taking a trip around the world. It’s amazing,” says Constantine Sideris, 67, a customer at Punjab Groceries & Halal Meat, which specializes in South Asian cuisine. “It brings me back to my youth when I was a teenager in the Merchant Marines.”

A cool find awaits around every aisle. And apparently the word is out.

Though this Waverly storefront looks deceptively small from the street, once inside, its well-stocked aisles run deep. The produce section—stacked cases of mangoes, papayas, lychees, okras, coconuts, and yuccas—engulfs you upon entry, catching the eye with its colors. Bunches of fresh greens, lethal green chilies, and fragrant curry leaves stay crisp inside a refrigerator. An entire aisle is dedicated to every spice imaginable—whole or in powdered form. There are bottles of chutneys and pickles, and every kind of dried legume—from kidney and mung beans to black-eyed and yellow split peas—and even black njahi beans, of which we’ve never heard. The freezer section contains fish such as hilsa, rohu, kajoli, and lakka, which are foreign to U.S. waters.

Punjab also carries the staples—rice, breads, dairy—as well as fresh halal meats in the butcher section, one of the very few local places that sells goat’s head. But one of the biggest draws is the fresh samosas—small, deep-fried savory pastries, filled with green peas, potatoes, and spices—that are piled high in a foil-covered pan on the front counter.

Behind that counter, you’re likely to find Punjab co-owner Sajawal Khan, 40, or one of his three partners. (They bought the place in 2001.) Khan first emigrated from Pakistan to the U.S. in 1997 and started working in Atlantic City. After a brief stint in North Carolina, he ended up in Baltimore.

“We came here to see our friend, and he said this store was for sale,” he explains. The previous owners were also Pakistani and, before that, from India and Bangladesh. Despite having no experience running a store, Khan says, “One of our friends had a store in Atlantic City, and told us who the wholesaler stores were in New York, and we go every week to Philadelphia for vegetables to a big produce market.” Gradually, they built up the store and expanded it, knocking down the back wall to accommodate a walk-in freezer, as well as a container for dry storage. According to Khan, his customers are “not only Indian, Bangladeshi, Pakistani, Nepali, but American, white, black, African, Sri Lankan, Chinese, and lot of students from Hopkins.”

Sideris, who has been coming to Punjab for the last 13 years because he likes “hot stuff,” remembers the first time he discovered the place. “I was looking to buy lamb—it was Easter time—and I was disappointed by the American lamb. It’s not edible, like Australian and New Zealand lamb,” he says. “So I ended up here, and I got some lamb, and along with the lamb I got all this beautiful stuff.” He proudly shows off the contents of his shopping basket. “Turkish coffee, sweets. Look how cheap the oils are, like this olive oil for eight bucks. This is like a third of the price of a regular store. This is like going to the candy store.”

Thomas Toung emigrated to the U.S. from Taiwan in 1964 to become a fellow at Massachusetts General Hospital. After a stint in Wichita, KS, in 1967, he became an assistant resident in anesthesiology at Johns Hopkins, where he is currently a professor. As soon as he laid down roots in Baltimore, he started bringing over his family from Taiwan, including nine brothers and four sisters. In 1970, Thomas set up his younger brother Wi-Tsai with a Chinese grocery called Asia Food, located downtown on St. Paul Street. The store was strictly wholesale, supplying Baltimore’s burgeoning Chinatown on Park Avenue.

“Baltimore [had] only one Chinese store, so we were really busy,” says Henry, 75, another one of the Toung brothers, who currently runs the store with his wife of 48 years, Mun-Ge, and their son, Chaw-Kim, 40.

Henry took over after his brother passed away in 1983, the same year they moved to their present location on York Road in Govans. The red-and-white “Asia Food” sign subtitled with Chinese characters is easy to miss, but a recently added more eye-catching marquee announces “Asian Market” in bold red letters, with the awning specifying, “Indian, Asian, American & Hispanic Foods.”

“Before our sign everybody drove by, like, ‘We didn’t know, we thought it was a warehouse. We didn’t know we could come in here and buy anything,'” says Chaw-Kim. “But we’ve been here forever.”

Even though Asia Food does not advertise, Chaw-Kim has seen an uptick in business—especially in the last five years.

“Before we had just regular customers coming in here, but now we have customers we’ve never seen constantly coming in,” he says. “Like my mom was telling me, ‘I don’t recognize all these people coming in.’ Before we recognized everyone.”

Motioning to his father, he says, “He knows everybody who owns a Chinese restaurant—the older generation—and they know him, too. The people that emigrated here, especially Asians, all opened restaurants. That’s all they did.” In the beginning, his dad was driving up to New York twice a week to pick up supplies. “Everything was imported into New York, and they didn’t deliver down here,” says Chaw-Kim. “Today it’s so competitive they even deliver to restaurants down here.”

His mother, polite and impeccably dressed, tends to a customer buying a few cans of Maesri brand Thai curry paste. “Oh, that’s good. And easy to make,” she encourages. “Really? Thanks!” replies the young African-American woman. “I’m excited to try it.”

“See we sell basic stuff—like I need soy sauce or rice—there you go,” says Chaw-Kim. “That’s why we cater to mostly Americans because it’s easy.”

Though many home cooks shop there these days, Asia Foods sells pretty much everything one would need to start an Asian restaurant. An entire aisle contains industrial-size woks, serving platters, clay pots, bamboo steamers, utensils, and rice cookers.

The rest of the store is stocked with hefty sacks of rice, a dizzying variety of noodles, soy sauces, teas, spices, and, even an entire aisle dedicated to Indian spices and products. The store’s refrigerated produce section at the back boasts such Asian vegetables as bok choy, kalian (or Chinese broccoli), daikon radish, and whole stalks of lemongrass. In the freezers, there are all sorts of meats and seafood—from frozen quail or duck to baby octopus—as well as prepared foods like pork buns, dumplings, kimchi, and Calamansi juice from the Philippines. Behind this roomy retail space is a warehouse about twice the size, which was built to house its wholesale operation for area restaurants.

“I think for a long time, it was just us chefs who ventured into these stores out of interest and curiosity,” Dyson says. “But now the restaurant guest is seeking it out, too. Ingredients and condiments that were once just back-of-the-house have started exploding.”

To Market, To Market

When it comes to ethnic grocery stores, Baltimore is like the United Nations. Here is a small sampling of what to find where.

Far Eastern

Asia Food: One of Baltimore’s oldest purveyors of Asian ingredients, you will find everything you need to make your next baingan bharta or bibimbap. A great selection of woks and rice cookers are for sale, too. 5224 York Rd., 410-323-8738.

Han Ah Reum (Hmart): This Korean chain is the mother ship for foods. Look for items in the meat, fish, and produce departments you won’t find anywhere else in town. 800 N. Rolling Rd., Catonsville, 443-612-9020.

Potung Trading: This small but well-stocked Asian grocer located in Baltimore’s Chinatown district has that odd ingredient from Indonesia or Thailand listed in your Authentic Recipes from Vietnam cookbook and earns rave reviews for its wide selection of fish sauces. 321 Park Ave., 410-962-1510.

Indian

Punjab Groceries & Halal Meat: This grocer offers an exhaustive inventory of South Asian spices and condiments, as well as a full-service Halal butcher specializing in lamb and goat. Buy the vegetable samosas available at the front counter. 345 E. 33rd St. 410-662-7844.

Patel Brothers

This chain is a major source for all products from Southeast Asia from spices to beauty foods. Masala popcorn, anyone? 6402 Baltimore National Pike Route # 40, Catonsville, 410-719-2822

Middle Eastern

Koko Market: With everything from hookah to fresh halal meats, this affordable market specializes in Middle Eastern fruit juices, desserts, rice, and rare spices. 6020 Eastern Ave., 410-633-6030.

Seven Mile Market

A large grocer providing a convenient one-stop shopping experience for customers in search of all things kosher, including hot prepared foods for grabbing on the go. 201 Reisterstown Rd., Pikesville, 410-653-2000.

Latino

Cinco De Mayo: In addition to a great selection of Mexican chilies and spices, meats, and produce, Cinco de Mayo is the go-to place for piñatas, a large selection of which swing from the ceiling. 417 S. Highland Ave., 410-276-0004

La Favorita: Famous for its fresh avocados, this Central and South American grocer offers a rare assortment of produce including guavas and green mangos. Authentic desserts like churros and tres leches cakes are also sold in the store. 540 Cranbrook Rd., Cockeysville, 410-628-1442

African/Caribbean

Island Food Market: From anise seed essence to frozen goat meat, Island Food specializes in all types of products from the Caribbean, with a fishmonger in the back. 5318 Park Heights Ave., 410-664-1818.

Caribbean Supermarket: If you’re looking for ingredients to make an authentic Caribbean dish, a visit to this ethnic market is your best bet. Offerings include specialty products like dried noodles, fresh seafood, Goya products, and an affordable selection of produce. 8040 Liberty Road, 410-922-7260.

Italian

Di Pasquale’s: This community market features imported Italian groceries such as meats, cheeses, and gourmet olive oils, while also putting its homemade delicacies on display. Brick-oven baked breads and house-made cannoli cream can all be found at this Old World neighborhood store. 3700 Gough St. 410-276-6787.

Trinacria Foods: This cozy market has been around for generations providing the community with authentic Italian ingredients. All types of pasta, sauces, homemade breads, to-go lasagnas, overstuffed sandwiches, and a full bakery are on offer. 406 N. Paca St. 410-685-7285

Pastore’s Italian Delly: Carryout items such as fresh ravioli and hearty subs are available, along with an impressive line of imported Italian groceries at this longstanding deli market. Pastore’s also sells pasta machines and hand-painted platters and bowls. 8646 Loch Raven Blvd., Towson, 410-825-5316.

Greek

Greek Town Bakery & Delicatessen: For 35 years, this Highlandtown store has supplied Greektown with olives, olive oil, feta, coffee, jams, and other dry goods from Greece. 4705 Eastern Ave., 410-276-8052.

Prima Foods, Inc.: Prima is a wholesale food distributor with retail space specializing in products imported from Greece including olives, wines, frozen lamb and octopus, and some of the best feta in town. 51 Kane St., 410-633-5500.