Nestled among the thumping and bumping watering holes on always-hoppin’ Charles Street in Federal Hill is a small wine and cheese bar where most everybody knows everybody else’s name. (The slightly, shall we say, seasoned regulars at Cheese Galore & More may be more apt than many of the younger people in the neighborhood to get the reference to Cheers.)
“It’s kind of Cheers-y,” owner Sharon Johnson says. “If they don’t know your name, they will before you leave.”
Johnson, a neighborhood resident since Sam Malone poured Norm his last beer, opened a stall in Cross Street Market 15 years ago. About eight years ago, she moved it down the block and added a small bar that is adjacent to the shop. Since then, it’s been a favorite of locals who delight in the friendly, dog- and children-welcome, atmosphere and solid food and drink.
Wine is the star here, and the house bottles are an incredible bargain. Johnson enlisted a panel of regulars for tastings to help pick out the labels, and the Noble Vines pinot noir we enjoyed at one of the tables out front was excellent. When we learned that it cost just $21.99, our jaws dropped. (Since our mouths were open, we ordered another bottle.)
Craft beers and canned cocktails also are available (Cheese Galore does not have a liquor license), and beer and wine are for sale to-go every day of the week other than Mondays—when the bar and store are closed.
Of course, nothing goes better with wine than cheese. Johnson’s philosophy is to offer “basic cheeses with flair.” Cheese boards are served with fresh baked baguette slices and crackers, and there are fascinating varieties to choose from. Aged gouda from Holland, drunken goat from Spain, buttermilk blue from Wisconsin, and a rosemary and garlic chevre in olive oil from Maryland are among the offerings. Imported Italian meats and dried fruits, olives, jams, and almonds can be added and ensure that a cheese board here certainly can constitute a meal.
Paninis and sandwiches dot the menu, including the Big Dill, a version of an Italian cold cut with hunks of pickle serving as the buns. It’s a delicious take on a tried and true classic but be sure to request extra napkins. Hot dogs are also a favorite. Johnson started splitting all-beef quarter-pounders and grilling them for Orioles opening day when she moved to the new space, and they’ve remained popular. They can be topped with homemade chili and, obviously, specialty cheeses.
A wonderful array of items is available in the store next to the bar, including hot sauces, Fisher’s popcorn, truffle potato chips from Italy, and local products like Zeke’s coffee and Atwater’s chicken salad. Perhaps the most beloved item is the Asiago dip, affectionately known as Federal Hill crack. One bite and you’ll see why it’s so addictive.
The night we visited there was a neighborhood safety meeting in the shop, where book clubs also can meet. The for-the-locals vibe is impossible not to feel. Next to the bar hangs a picture of a longtime regular, simply and lovingly known as Mr. Ed. “Thanks Ed! All is still good here in the hood,” is written on the photo.
Cheese Galore & More is a big reason why.