In Good Taste

Thames Street Oyster House Defends Best Lobster Roll Title

Let the good times roll at Tasting Table’s 2015 Lobster Rumble.

[Update, 6/5/15: Congratulations to Thames Street and Chef Houseknecht for taking home the win for Editors’ Choice.]

The question over what constitutes the best lobster roll has been debated time and time again. Is it cold lobster salad? Or is it the hot lobster with butter? Maine or Massachusetts?

On June 4,
Thames Street Oyster House executive chef Eric Houseknecht and owner Candace Beattie will head back to New York to defend their win in this year’s 6th annual Lobster Rumble.

As one of 25 contenders, Thames Street will once again go up against chefs from all over New England.

The competition, hosted by
Tasting Table, allows guests to taste and then vote on their favorite roll.

This will be Thames Street’s fourth year in the competition.

“It was pretty cool to beat out some big-time, heavy-hitter chefs from Boston,” says Beattie.

But what makes their lobster roll the best?

The simplicity of the hot roll allows you to taste the meat itself, says Beattie. Thames Street uses only East Coast, cold-water Maine lobster. The meat from the entire lobster is butter poached, lightly sprinkled with sea salt, and then served on a griddled, buttered brioche split-top bun.

“I think the bread has a part to do with it, and the way that we cook the lobster,” explains Houseknecht. “We don’t over cook it, we actually do it just a touch under, then we finish it with butter.”

To dress things up, the roll comes with beurre monté, butter emulsified with a little bit of cream to add a silky flavor.

Last year’s win has prompted a wider fan basis for Thames Street, not only here in Maryland, but up the coast as well. “I feel like we have a little following in New York now because of this,” says Houseknecht.

“For now, we’ll just keep doing what we’re doing,” adds Beattie, “and we hope that we win again. There were some pretty sad Mainers up there last year.”