You can find the thoroughly English experience—think: a strong brew and a scone with clotted cream and lemon curd—in places as diverse as a historic restaurant, a cozy tea room, and a cocktail-inspired hotel bar if you know where to look.
The new Ellicott City restaurant specializes in variations of suancai yu, a bowl of tender whitefish in a slightly sour broth made from pickled mustard greens.
Most of the dishes are doused with chiles in one form or another, but thanks to chef Frank Liang’s deft touch in the kitchen, the food is not overwhelmed by heat, but by flavor.
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