The spot serves up serious aesthetics (think: lovely glassware, kababs and tahdig on silver trays, and thoughtful garnishes) that are uncommon in strip-mall dining.
The new Ellicott City restaurant specializes in variations of suancai yu, a bowl of tender whitefish in a slightly sour broth made from pickled mustard greens.
Most of the dishes are doused with chiles in one form or another, but thanks to chef Frank Liang’s deft touch in the kitchen, the food is not overwhelmed by heat, but by flavor.
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