COMING SOON
La Maison by Café Dear Leon: With the change of the seasons comes the long-awaited debut of the homey La Maison by Café Dear Leon in Remington. The sister-concept to the wildly successful Café Dear Leon in Canton—known for attracting early risers that form lines around the block for morning buns, pastries, coffees, and viral items like the tamago sando and crab dip bagel—is hosting a soft opening weekend Oct. 10-12 from 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Set in the restaurant at 2600 N. Howard St—most recently home to the Equitea pop-up, but formerly JBGB’s and Parts & Labor—the Korean-American operated French boulangerie will have 5,000 square feet of breathing room. At more than four times the size of the Canton cafe, where there’s a six-customer indoor limit and a tent for outdoor dining, the new spot seats 155 inside and 68 on its patio, allowing patrons to enjoy their treats in a true cafe setting. The team has also invested in new glassware and dishes to add to the sit-down experience.
In the back of the house, the pastry pros will utilize the large walk-in fridge, previously used for the butchery, as a room for lamination—the technique of folding and rolling layers of dough separated by butter to create a light flaky baked goods, like croissants.
Bigger is obviously the theme here, and that will also apply to the menu. A massive pastry case (three times as large as Canton) will be accompanied by a concierge for diners to ask questions before ordering. Plans for lunch service are also percolating, with hopes to use the custom-built JBGB pizza oven. (OG CDL fans will recall the summer of 2021, when the team exclusively offered foccacia-style pies.) Final hours are still being determined, but the owners are envisioning a day-to-night restaurant.
Taco Love Grill: Locust Point is getting another Mexican concept. After the opening of Don Tigre last year, family-owned Taco Love Grill—known for its sizzling fajitas, scratch-made margaritas, and crowd-pleasing street tacos at Cross Street Market in Federal Hill and in White Marsh—has announced plans to open a third location at McHenry Row. No word yet on an official ribbon-cutting date, but locals can expect the same lively mix of Mexican staples and Taco Tuesday deals that have earned the restaurant its loyal following north of the harbor.
OPEN
Animal Boy: Lauraville’s latest hangout is serving punk rock energy with a side of sandwiches on Harford Road. Chris and Kate Tsonos—alums of Golden West, The Royal Blue, Woodberry Kitchen, and Sandlot—have opened Animal Boy, a family-friendly sandwich shop and bar inside the SoHa Union building, taking over the former Café Campli space. The name nods to both The Ramones’ 1986 album and to the couple’s two-year-old son, Georgie, affectionately nicknamed “Animal Boy.”
Expect bright orange and blue walls plastered with rock posters, a working 45-RPM jukebox, and plenty of kids’ toys tucked between tables. The menu mixes classic hot and cold sandwiches (including a Philly-style roast pork and The Benny, a beef number honoring Morgan State’s bear mascot) with vegan and vegetarian options like seitan cheesesteak and pastrami seitan with dill-horseradish sauce. Animal Boy offers a full bar, where the drinks are straightforward, affordable, and unpretentious—just like the vibe.
“It’s a cool hangout spot for everyone,” Tsonos recently told Baltimore Fishbowl. “Not pretentious by any means.”
Subplicity: Speaking of unpretentious, and perhaps a sign of the times (sandwiches remain reliable and accesible despite inflation), Federal Hill has a new spot for hoagie lovers. Subplicity, first launched in Breezewood, Pennsylvania, was founded by husband-and-wife-team Joseph and Sujitra Park. While the Breezewood location has been sold, the duo is bringing their diner-meets-delicatessen feel to 1501 Light Street, complete with bar seating, red-checkered tablecloths, and Pfefferkorn’s coffee. Joseph Park, a Baltimore native and Culinary Institute of America grad, took over the space from his uncle, who ran Garden American Eatery before deciding to retire.
Subplicity offers a lineup of hot and cold subs made on either Liscio’s seeded rolls or Costanzo’s soft rolls, plus signature options like the P.C.S. (prosciutto with chicken salad and spicy cheddar), thin-sliced “angel hair” lettuce, and Cooper Sharp cheese sourced straight from Pennsylvania, the birthplace of the hoagie. Rounding things out are breakfast sandwiches on bagels or croissants, fries, tater tots, and a kids’ menu with PB&J’s and Nathan’s hot dogs.
La Jetée: James Beard Award–winning chef Spike Gjerde is back on the waterfront with his newest restaurant, La Jetée, which opened last week in the former Cindy Lou’s Fish House at The Canopy by Hilton. Harbor Point is familiar territory for Gjerde, whose now-closed seasonal beach bar, Sandlot, operated at the mixed-use development for years.
La Jetée draws inspiration from the seafood-rich cuisine of Provence, France—think roasted leg of lamb, chicken paillard, panisse with garlic aioli, and a raw bar stacked with Chesapeake oysters and clams. Gjerde recently described the project as a “next chapter,” pairing the joie de vivre of the French Mediterranean with Mid-Atlantic shellfish and seasonal produce. “We won’t be flying fish from the Mediterranean,” he told us in an exclusive interview, “but we’ll be using the same approach and recipes.”
The redesign promises a softer, coastal look with floor-to-ceiling harbor views, lighter woods, and linen accents. Longtime collaborator Matthew Audette will stay on as executive chef, with Virginia Allen (formerly of Alma and Woodberry Kitchen) managing the front of house. Expect crepes in the morning, baguette sandwiches at lunch, Provençal classics at dinner, and plenty of rosé to go around.
Zoa K-BBQ: Belvedere Square’s corner property—which was most recently Koba Korean Charcoal Grill, but longtime locals might also remember as The Starlite Diner, Shoo-Fly Diner, and Crush—is firing up once again, this time under new ownership and the name Zoa K-BBQ. The owners are taking a “culinary journey to Baltimore,” offering their spin to the beloved Korean ritual of tableside grilling. Details are still under wraps as to whether there will be karaoke in the basement, but if early signs are any indication, North Baltimore can expect another crowd-pleaser for groups, date nights, and anyone who believes dinner is better when cooked over an open flame.
NEWS
Bloomberg Student Center Food Hall: The new Bloomberg Student Center at 3290 N. Charles Street is gearing up to be a serious food hub for Blue Jays. While the full rollout will be phased, according to the Johns Hopkins University site, six local dining options are slated to open this fall. Among the names is Urban Kitchen, helmed by Baltimore native and 2025 James Beard semifinalist chef Jasmine Norton, which will offer items like a smoked brisket banh mi, oyster-mushroom fritters, and riffs on Baltimore classics.
There will also be Mo’s Place, named for Hopkins alum and philanthropist Morris Offit, operated by Hopkins alum Tim Ma. The fast-casual Chinese-American stall will be the only restaurant on campus licensed to serve alcohol. Koshary, from Iman Moussa of R. House’s Koshary Corner, will also set up shop, offering vegan and halal takes on Egypt’s national dish. Last, but certainly not least, will be Connie’s, by brothers Shawn and Khari Parker, who are opening a third location for their cult-favorite chicken-and-waffle sandwiches, tenders, wings, and breakfast items.
EPICUREAN EVENTS
Old Westminster Winery’s 10th Anniversary Celebration: On the heels of a big few years for Old Westminster—we detail recent expansion plans, here—is the 10-year anniversary of the Baker siblings transforming their family juniper farm in Carroll County into one of Maryland’s most celebrated wine destinations. To mark the milestone, the team is hosting a one-night-only 10th Anniversary Celebration on Friday, Nov. 7, featuring an all-star lineup of local culinary talent.
In-house chef Tae Strain will join forces with Lane Harlan and Carlos Raba (Clavel), George Dailey and Gabe Valladares (Cookhouse), and Chris Amendola (Foraged) for a collaborative four-course feast paired with wines from Old Westminster’s cellar. Guests will be welcomed with Champagne, canapés, and cocktails on the porch before settling into the newly redesigned greenhouses for a communal dinner celebrating Maryland terroir and Baltimore’s culinary creativity. Tickets (~$190) are still available via Tock, with two seatings at 5 p.m. and 7:30 p.m.
SHUT (SOON)
Pie Time: After a decade of slicing up sweet and savory pies, Pie Time is going out of business. Owner Max Reim announced the news on Instagram, reflecting candidly on the “hard, rewarding, and wild” ride of running a small bakery. While there’s no official final day set, the shop will continue pared-down coffee service until a new tenant takes over its corner space at 3101 E. Baltimore Street.
Reim launched Pie Time in 2015 with a $5,000 investment and a pickup truck at farmers markets before opening the Patterson Park cafe in 2020—his dream project built from the ground up throughout a two-year renovation. Known for flaky, seasonal pies including a famed crab pie, and espresso drinks, Pie Time carved out a loyal following before facing mounting challenges, including pandemic delays, rising competition, and, according to Reim, a saturated breakfast and pastry scene. “We were growing until late ’23, and then we stopped,” Reim said via email, “while we did get back about 20 weekday customers after Rize and Rest closed [across the street].”
This is in fact the end of pies for Reim, who said he’s embarking on a new career at the age of 40 and will no longer be a vendor at farmer markets. “[I’m] really going to miss that,” he said.