Food & Drink
Edited by Lydia Woolever
Written with Ana Bak, Lauren Cohen, Amy Scattergood, and Mike Unger.
Photography by Scott Suchman
Illustrations by Molly McCammon
Baltimore is a city of neighborhoods, and luckily, in turn, Baltimore is a city of great neighborhood bars. Often, they’re in a renovated rowhome and, even more likely, they’re on a corner. Back in the day, they were go-tos for an ice-cold National Bohemian with a shot of Pikesville rye. But these days, they come in all shapes and sizes. You might also find an ideal martini there. Maybe a late-night dance party, too. Whatever their style, then and now, they’ve somehow managed to foster an authentic sense of community, featuring a regular crew behind the bar and a crowd of locals routinely gathering with friends or getting to know neighbors, likely having their order in mind without needing a look at the menu (which might just be their bartender’s choice).
Believe it or not, it’s been a decade since Baltimore did our last true roundup of the city’s “best bars,” and a lot has changed on the local drinking scene. Old faithfuls have closed. New hot spots have opened. And more than ever—in these digital, divided, dystopian times, as hospitality establishments become more homogenized and hollowed out by trends—it feels like we need these genuine “third spaces” for gathering outside of work or home. Where we can take a load off and shed our daily stresses. Where we can be both ourselves and part of a collective. And yes, at their best, where everyone knows your name (or at the very least, how the Orioles are playing).
Below, we raise a glass to the newly established bars that are doing their neighborhoods proud, and also give love to some of the stalwarts that have already set the standard.
Above: Co-owner Meg Snyder shaking things up at Vision House; the house sour and Flamboyán at The Coral Wig.
29th Street Tavern
Remington
The Formstone façade and neon sign hanging out front of this corner bar—in classic fashion, not all letters always illuminated—are the perfect indicators of what you’ll find inside. When Baltimore native Aaron Reinhart bought Long John’s Pub in 2018 (after similarly saving Swallow at the Hollow near the Towson line), he merely cleaned up the place, keeping it a casual, everyman staple in an ever-gentrifying neighborhood. Stools at the lacquered bartop are occupied by locals of all ages, mainly drinking beer—more than 50 on offer—or basic mixed drinks, aka don’t expect a cocktail menu. Many also come for the solid bar food. Get the wings. Have a whiskey. Stay awhile. Then, with the old packaged-goods license still intact, take a six-pack for the road.
The Back Yard
Hollins Market
A history of hospitality permeates the very foundation of this hidden gem by the B&O Railroad Museum. Previously Patrick’s of Pratt Street, one of the oldest Irish pubs in America, The Back Yard’s tiny rowhome has been a bar since the 19th century. Since opening in 2018, owner Michael Cavanagh has honored that lineage by creating a quintessential meeting-house, where libations and conversation flow freely between friends and strangers, thus wearing its name well. With meticulous cocktails, cellared beers, Detroit-style pizza, and a time-worn interior, there are modern sensibilities with a nod to the past. Ask for the clever El División Del Norte, featuring mezcal, ancho chile, pomegranate, and a dash of blackwalnut bitters.
Above: A party of four,
the menu, the alley entrance on Read Street, and the ambience at The
Coral Wig.
The Coral Wig
Mt. Vernon
On first visit, Baltimore’s hottest new cocktail bar is easy to miss, tucked into a subterranean lair beneath the Ulysses hotel on Read Street. And yet, it always draws a crowd, in part because the smallisle- inspired room is stunning (at least what you can see of it—it’s seductively low-lit). Hospitality connoisseur Lane Harlan has a brilliant eye for design to accompany her deep appreciation for the bacchanal; she’s the pied piper of Baltimore’s pioneering booze palaces W.C. Harlan, Clavel, and Fadensonnen. And now this drinking den—pulsing with unsuspecting hotel guests, postwork happy hours of the city’s hippest, and late-night dates in the back corners since 2023—has earned its own rightful buzz. Transport to the South Pacific with its tiki-forward menu (i.e. the luxurious house sour or over-the-top Flamboyán) and be mesmerized by your master-class bartenders—smoking wood under glasses, stuffing garnishes into pebble ice, shaking drinks into frothy submission.
The Club Car
Station North
What began two winters ago as a pop-up LGBTQ+ venue, cocktail bar, and art gallery has, thankfully, become permanent. When a team of creative friends took over the former Windup Space on North Avenue, they brought its arts-centric legacy into this dynamic and ever-welcoming neighborhood lounge. Even the most buttoned-up types are embraced with open arms; after all, “When you’re here, you’re queer—get used to it,” as the tongue-in-cheek menu reminds. Thursday through Saturday, you might find drag queens, burlesque performances, artists, gallery curators, or just locals needing a well-poured cocktail. The Swann Song was a fall favorite—a pre-Prohibition potion of gin, créme de violette, vermouth, absinthe, and orange bitters—named after the first self-proclaimed drag queen. A Maryland native, no less.
The Dive
Canton
There are lots of folks trying to make new dive bars these days—a sort of oxymoron. In that vein, and in Jesse Sandlin style (see Sally O’s in Highlandtown), this colorful corner clubhouse is full of nostalgia. Fittingly located in the former Jack’s Bistro, its pizzas are playfully topped with pickles and Doritos dust, and the cocktails (like the standout cucumbergin Pinball Wizard) arrive in cartoon glasses with silly straws. But it’s more than gimmicks. Cantonites flock for its low-key party vibe. And we can always get behind boxes of Jenga up for grabs, throwback movies on loop, and frequent fundraiser nights for neighbors in need or national causes like wildfire relief.
Dutch Courage
Old Goucher
As the sun begins to set, look inside the front windows of this historic Charles Street rowhome and expect to find a glowing scene that beckons you inside: warm light, a working fireplace, a wide-ranging crowd snuggled up in vintage furniture with the bar’s leatherbound menu. Gin is the main attraction, with more than 100 varieties whisked into gimlets and goblets, showing off the wonders of this juniper infused spirit. In spring, we’re partial to the Eleanor, with Baltimore Spirits Company’s Shot Tower gin, cocchi rosa, rosewater, grapefruit, and bubbly, topped with dried flowers. This time of year, the house “toasties” are also worth a visit, aka spiked and spiced teas for warming up through winter. No wonder this Old Goucher parlor has been good at gauging the neighborhood’s imbibing needs—co-owner Brendan Dorr (who runs the place with fellow industry veteran Eric Fooy) lives just up the street.
Above: The courtyard sign; natural wine, beer, and cocktails at Fadensonnen.
Fadensonnen
Old Goucher
Walk into this communal complex from Lane Harlan and you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in, well, not Baltimore. Brooklyn maybe, or Tokyo, or Berlin. Still, this deeply cool mecca for spirits and socialization has become a go-to for locals. Through its secluded courtyard, the ground-floor bar is a moody scene, where small parties hang by the medieval tower of melting candles and 16 taps, including one for orange wine. Upstairs, groups gather on the serene second-floor, sipping sake and sherry over live poetry and DJ sets. The courtyard biergarten is always bustling, too—even in the dead of winter, thanks to a heated tent (where you can split a splendid rotisserie chicken from Chachi’s). In a perfect world, there’d also be an Airbnb, so you could just stay the night.
Above: Vinyl, chatting, pouring a Pharoah Dance, and the bar at Mama Koko's.
Mama Koko’s
Barclay
Despite only celebrating its first year this summer, Mama Koko’s already feels like it’s been part of Baltimore forever. Located inside the historic Hooper House arts hub, it’s inspired by owner Angola Selassie’s mother, Kokahvah—a writer, world traveler, and community matriarch, who regularly frequents the space—and has quickly become an essential center for creative exchange. By day, you’ll find students, artists, and a stylish clientele tapping away on laptops or having chats over matcha lattes. By evening, the lights dim, candles flicker, and the room fills up again—this time, for the bar, helmed by Jake Eyer, who dreams up some of the city’s most beautiful bespoke beverages. Take the Coastin’, for instance —a swirl of nori-infused tequila with citrusy sake and honey-mango shrub beneath a seaweed garnish. The mai tais and clarified options rule, too.
Meander
Upper Fells
Imagine a corner bar crossed with a vintage shop, kindergarten art class, and your wacky aunt’s living room, then you’ll have Meander on Lombard Street near Washington Hill. Last winter, local artist Martha Robichaud joined forces with talented barkeep Matthew Steinberg (previously of Kenwood Tavern) in this leafy location that has seen various incarnations, most recently as Bar 1801. Now, neighbors convene for not only properly creative concoctions—like the stirred Umami, combining gin, vodka, dashi, yuzu, and chile oil—but also to peruse the $1 vinyl bin, play a Ouija board, or purchase watercolor kits for painting while pinting.
Melanie’s at Griffith’s Tavern
Hampden
For a long time, this fading brick façade on Hickory Avenue was home to a blue-collar bar called Griffith’s Tavern. When co-owners Allison Crowley and Hannah Spangler took over in 2022, they wanted to make it their own, playfully updating its name in homage to the leading lady of John Waters’ cult-classic, Cecil B. Demented. Inside, this woman-owned watering hole still genuinely looks and feels like a dive—think long bar, wood-paneled walls, bags of Utz—but now with unexpectedly modern drinks and an all-embracing attitude. A Thai chile rendition of Death & Co.’s iconic Naked and Famous cocktail was a recent delight. On any given night, the 16-stool bar might feature a mix of Gen Z and millennial hipsters sharing shots of Malört, neighborhood moms nursing Spaghetts (maybe with babies in tow), and barfly regulars posted up for Ravens games and $3 Bohs.
Old Major
Pigtown
Just a stone’s throw from Carroll Park sits this little corner bar that could—and does. Open on weekends since 2018, the former cop haunt has been transformed by owner Candice Bruno into an open-armed community cornerstone. A panoply of neighbors packs in for flavorful tropical cocktails inspired by her Caribbean heritage, as well as a fridge of unlikely beers and beverages of similar origins. But that’s just the beginning; she also hosts yoga classes, open mics, film screenings, and grocery giveaways, fostering a culture of care on Carey Street. A back nook sells books by local authors like D. Watkins, too. And then there’s the kitchen, turning out whole fish, house curries, and jerk chicken that only cement that taste of home.
Above: The front door,
pouring a Whirlybird,
and a view
down the bar at The
Pink Flamingo.
The Pink Flamingo
Remington
For devotees of The Dizz, seeing this 30th Street corner dive transformed into a tiki bar might’ve been a tough pill to swallow. But the Dutch Courage team has made it a point to preserve that local tavern feel since opening this spring. Yes, the menu now favors rum over shots of rye whiskey, while the old jukebox and oddball art of the Elaine Stevens-owned days have been replaced by tropical tchotchkes. But it’s still the spot for game days, casual catch-ups, and burger nights. (Longtime regulars will also appreciate the return of pitchered beers and an upstairs ode to the pinball machines of past eras.) For the better, we can confirm that the cocktails are a real treat. A riff on the famous Jungle Bird (followed by a Fire Island blood-orange margarita) pulled us out of a recent midweek slump.
Above: The outdoor
patio, a
frozen piña colada, and the retro
side room near the
disco pit
at The Royal Blue.
The Royal Blue
Station North
Randy Coffren and Rich Pugh just get it, man. From their flagship Johnny Rad’s in Upper Fells to their follow-up Snake Hill in Highlandtown, the hospitality power-duo has shown they know how to make a truly Baltimore bar, with The Royal Blue in Station North proving a third time really is the charm. From lunch through happy hour, it’s a no-fuss, friendly hangout, slinging shot-and-abeer specials and killer smashburgers on Maryland Avenue. Then at night, when partner Jimmy Crawford runs the place, the digs truly come to life. One of the most inclusive bars in town, everyone and their grandmother congregate here for fun-loving cocktails, from frozen piña coladas to espresso martinis on draft, and a downright good time. Honestly, we didn’t know how much we needed the back “disco pit,” where local DJs spin and dance parties break out every weekend, often into the wee hours.
Sisu Bar & Bottles
Little Italy
Since their spring opening on South High Street, this chic and easy wine bar in the former Joe Benny’s has quickly become the spot for aperitivo in Little Italy. Owners Chris Peters and Kate Hufton offer an ever-rotating roster of natural vinos and small-batch spirits, with half pours to full bottles indulging your inner sommelier. Nearby restaurants send diners here for drinks until their table’s ready, where they can mingle with neighborhood locals, industry folks, and sometimes, serving gelato, the owners’ 10-year-old son, Axl. The family calls Sisu their “living room,” and it certainly feels that way—especially since they live upstairs.
Above: Row 1: Table talk at The Royal Blue, an Old Sport cocktail at Southpaw; Row 2: Draft cocktails at The Royal Blue, a shot and a beer on the jukebox at Southpaw, bartender Doug Atwell pouring an order; Row 3: Guests
mix Miller High
Life, amaretto,
and overproof rum
into a fan-favorite
Dr. Pepper shooter
at Southpaw.
Southpaw
Fells Point
Other than Camden Yards, there might be no better place to watch baseball in this city than at this Cheers-like corner bar. There’s no grand TV set-up, but with songs like “Thank God I’m a Country Boy” on the jukebox and a suds section on the menu titled Ain’t the Beer Cold, every O's fan will feel right at home. If you’re lucky, on a winning night, there might even be a round of shots on the house from owner Doug Atwell—a local cocktail legend, neighborhood resident, and die-hard Birds fan. That kind of hospitality speaks to this circa-2022 stalwart’s character: always a pleasure, nothin’ fancy, steadfastly Baltimore, which is why it’s garnered such a loyal following. And, of course, because it has some of the most top-notch cocktails in town, including arguably the very best Old- Fashioned.
Above: Playing chess, the hotdogs, and the scene at Vision House.
Vision House
Charles Village
It’s hard to find a good bar these days that hasn’t already been discovered (and then inundated) by the internet. But walking into this 25th Street hole-in-the-wall is like stumbling upon a best-kept secret—and a Baltimore of yore. Residents of a certain age will remember this as the old Rendezvous Lounge, and some of that dive-y magic still lingers. Run by local friends since 2023, Vision House’s DIY vibe gets lifted by a fresh dose of classic cocktails (from negronis and daiquiris to paper planes), plus Old Westminster wines and local beer. It’s a cozy hangout with an eclectic, all-ages, more-the-merrier crowd: young hipsters, neighborhood old-timers, late-night industry folks, a posse of chess players participating in the side room’s weekly matches. Follow the checkerboard floor to the back for damn-good hot dogs by Mr. Roast Beast. For now, they’re only open on Fridays. But that only adds to the allure.
Above: Bartender and cover model Adam Estes, the dartboard, and pouring fresh lemon juice at The Wren.
The Wren
Fells Point
Last but certainly not least, The Wren is probably both Baltimore’s best bar and best restaurant right now. In this sturdy Aliceanna Street rowhouse, long home to the whiskey-heavy Birds of a Feather, husband-and-wife team Will Mester and Millie Powell now run the place like the Irish pubs Powell grew up on in her native Dublin. While he cooks sublime country fare in the ad-hoc kitchen, she and veteran bartender Adam Estes mind the bar, expertly pulling Guinnesses from the new copper taps. Though only opened this past winter, with its tin ceiling, single dartboard, slew of inherited regulars, and occasional well-behaved neighborhood dog by the front door, The Wren presents like a humble, time-worn, almost-forgotten bar. Which is its superpower. (Even with the onslaught of new visitors, thanks to recent national accolades.) Find a stool, order one of Estes’ lovely Blood and Sand cocktails, grab a snack from the chalkboard menu, and listen. You’ll hear far better stories than whatever’s on your phone.
Tipple Trends
FINALLY, MOCKTAILS ARE EVERYWHERE, AND THEY’RE BETTER THAN EVER.
IN AN ERA OF BRANDED MERCH, HOUSE MATCHBOOKS ARE NOW A MUST-HAVE SOUVENIR.
FROM PILSNERS TO LAGERS, LIGHTER BEERS ARE HAVING A MOMENT AS THE GO-TO BREWS.
IT’S TIKI TIME. TROPICAL COCKTAILS CONTINUE TO PROVE THEIR STAYING POWER.
MOVE OVER LEDS, AND LET THERE BE LIGHT. REAL CANDLES ARE SETTING THE MOOD.
ETIQUETTE 101
LOCALS ONLY
Tips and tricks for becoming a regular at your favorite bar, as gleaned from our local go-to bartenders.
Mind your phone. You can’t get to know anyone, let alone make new friends, if you’re only looking at a screen. (That said, no shade if you just need to take a mental load off.)
Strike up a conversation. Don’t be shy. Or, at the very least, give it a try. For starters, safe-bet topics are always the Ravens and O's in this sports town.
Come in with consistency. Like a place? Go there. Then go there again. And again. Show your support. Become a recognizable face.
Be kind and patient. It’s a two-way street, of course, but most everyone is doing their best these days. (And a sense of humor also goes a long way.)
Tip your bartender.
A monetary token of
appreciation never hurts,
especially in this economy.
And it’s always noticed.
CLINK CLINK
CHEERS TO BEERS
Local breweries bubble up into vital
and versatile third spaces.
It’s not news that Baltimore is home to a bevy of excellent breweries. But over the past few years, many of these beloved beer halls have become so much more than just stops for locally made suds. In fact, an evolution seems to be underway. The smell of toasted grain now mingles with an all-ages crowd who increasingly gathers in these neighborhood hangouts for a home-away-from-home, sure, but also their regular roster of feel-good happenings.
Wet City has vinyl and DJ nights. Monument City is a hub for bluegrass concerts. Union Craft is now a bona fide rock venue. Waverly Brewing is home to the monthly Honky Tonk dance party. Take the family to Nepenthe for dart league, drawing club, or themed trivia. Or roll deep with your buds to Peabody Heights—perhaps the fullest social calendar of all—for a near-nightly gathering. (We heart the bi-monthly Baltimore Record Bazaar.) And the list goes on and on. To which we say: Keep up the good work.
MAKE IT A DOUBLE
THE SIDE BAR
Local businesses with
drinks not to miss.
Atomic Books: Find a stocked selection of local craft beer at this Hampden bookseller’s back Eightbar, with readings to boot.
Current Space: See hip happenings with high-concept cocktails (like the Japanese whisky Jujube Highball) in this Bromo gallery’s seasonal garden bar.
Hex Superette: Don’t sleep on this York Road market’s cute counter, mixing vegetal cocktails and mocktails with house ferments (HEXy Mary for the win).
Le Comptoir du Vin: We love many a restaurant bar, but especially this Station North bistro’s back patio, which is its own buzzy scene in warm months.
Mobtown Ballroom: Between dips on this Station North dancefloor, sidle up to its L-shaped bar for liquid courage like Black Acres espresso martinis.
No Land Beyond: Have fun and board games at this North Avenue activity mecca, with themed cocktails for drinking during Monopoly or Catan.
Ottobar:
Post-concert, rock on in
this storied venue’s upstairs bar
for more music, cheap boilermakers,
and the best motley crowd.
FOR THE ROAD
BARTENDER WISDOM
City drink-slingers
share life lessons learned
from behind the bar.
“Be curious. Try new things. Ask questions.”
—PAM HANER, W.C. HARLAN
“When he was running Please Don’t Tell in New York, Jim Meehan said, ‘The older I get, the more I realize my job is mixing people, not just drinks.’”
—DOUG ATWELL, SOUTHPAW
“Build a bar as if it’s going to last for 100 years. Not something you have to change constantly in order to keep up.”
—RANDY COFFREN, THE ROYAL BLUE
“This job has taught me how to see people, from all walks of life, on the same level, and that’s given me a patience and compassion for which I’m extremely grateful.’”
—CHLOË VAUGHAN, MOUNT ROYAL TAVERN
“Never trust a Guinness that’s poured in one go.”
—ADAM ESTES, THE WREN