Gildas Are the City’s New Favorite Bar Snack

From Josefina in Harbor East to Bar Dalí in Mount Vernon, the salty snacks known as Gildas—skewers speared with green Gordal olives, anchovies (or sometimes boquerones), and usually a Guindilla pickled green pepper—are the perfect pairing with a martini, a glass of wine, or a shot of sherry.

Interestingly, the iconic tapa (also known as a pintxo) was inspired by Rita Hayworth’s title character in the 1946 film of the same name. According to legend, the pintxo is the embodiment of Hayworth’s femme fatale character, both irresistible—and a little bit spicy.

Rosemary Liss, co-founder of Le Comptoir du Vin in Station North, added the skewered snack to the menu a few years ago after eating them in London, though they originated in San Sebastián, Spain.

“We had gone to this great wine shop and restaurant called Quality Wines, and they had these Gildas,” she recalls. “This is an homage to them, plus we were looking for more fun snacks to add to the menu. I also want people to realize they can have a quick drink and a bite, something like a salad or pâté or a Gilda, and something besides a full meal when they come to eat here.”

While creating the tapa is simple, the individual components are key.

“The quality of the anchovy we get is really important,” says Liss. “We get Don Bocarte anchovies from Spain—they’re the best there is. They’re so unctuous and meaty and not super fishy.”

Although Le Comptoir features a daily changing menu, the Gilda is here to stay.

“We sell so many a night, we can’t take them off the menu,” says Liss. “We can always tell what kind of crowd we’ve had on any given night whether we’re selling Gildas or bread and butter—and when it’s Gildas, it means we’ve had a more adventurous crowd.”