This past week has seen what weather people call a heat dome hovering over Baltimore, like some Jordan Peele sky machinery, condemning us all to triple-digit temperatures. So, what to eat, assuming you venture out from your AC? My answer: an oversized bowl of phở from Pho Nam in Gaithersburg.
It might seem counterintuitive—or even a bit deranged—to order hot, spicy soup during an extreme heat alert, but “fighting fire with fire” has a long tradition in many cultures, especially those in Southeast Asia.
The idea is that consuming heat (hot broth, chiles, Sriracha) triggers your body to sweat, which in turn cools you down. (And even if this didn’t happen, most restaurants crank their AC and provide icy cold drinks.) Plus, there is something incredibly soothing about phở, with or without 100-degree heat.
So it was that after a long tour of the Alexander Calders, Ruth Azawas, and Cy Twomblys at Potomac’s beautiful Glenstone Museum (the Andy Goldsworthy houses were sadly closed, as EMT vehicles could not access them if anyone succumbed to heatstroke), my son and I had a glorious early dinner at Pho Nam, slurping bowls of phở gà (chicken) and the namesake phở nạm (brisket). Both were nearly hubcap-sized, filled with rich broth, a tangle of noodles, plenty of fresh herbs, bean sprouts, discs of jalapeños, lime wedges, and the requisite proteins.
Gaithersburg is a bit of a hike, but among the things that set Pho Nam apart from many phở joints is that there are options for beef broth, chicken broth, or a blend of the two broths. Also, and I haven’t ever seen this before, you can order your phở gà with dark-meat chicken instead of the far more common white meat—which is terrific, as dark meat is exponentially more flavorful.
Sandwiched between a Sherwin-Williams paint store and a cigar and pipe shop in a sunburnt strip mall just off the 370 (we tend to think the best restaurants are in such places), Pho Nam has been owned and operated by the same South Vietnamese family for 26 years. The phở from the South tends to have broth that is sweeter and richer, with wider noodles and bigger mounds of fresh herbs like Thai basil, cilantro, and mint. It’s also usually accompanied by bottles of hoisin sauce and Sriracha.
Featuring a spacious dining room with ceiling fans whirring above, artsy photos of cinnamon and chiles lining the walls, and a comforting system of coolers loaded with refreshing drinks along the far wall, the place is, thankfully, more dim than fluorescent. It’s filled with cafe chairs and tables, and with a knowledgeable and friendly staff to help you navigate the menu, should you need direction.
“The greatest taste from yesteryear” is printed atop the large menu, which is also somehow comforting.
While browsing, you’ll find the serious phở options (including vegetarian options), but also various spring rolls, vermicelli dishes, bánh mì, Vietnamese coffees, young coconut juice, and superb iced salty plum drinks. Because you should not forget to rehydrate in seriously hot weather, nor do you want to skip meals, especially those with lots of liquid and protein.
In this case, they bring nearly inexplicable happiness.