Review: Inferno Pizza

This pizza takes the cake—make that pie.

Corey McLaughlin - July 2018

Review: Inferno Pizza

This pizza takes the cake—make that pie.

Corey McLaughlin - July 2018

The wood oven-roasted potatoes & onion pizza and the D.O.C. margherita pizza. -Scott Suchman

If you’ve never had the pleasure of eating food cooked by a James Beard Award-nominated chef, chances are you wouldn’t expect your first experience to come from a neighborhood pizza joint in a Gaithersburg strip mall. But what’s happening inside Inferno Pizzeria’s suburban storefront is far from ordinary.

This is Tony Conte’s place, where the 46-year-old former head chef of the multi-starred Oval Room, located near the White House, hand-makes no fewer than 140 certifiably authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas five nights a week, serving them to a steady stream of customers in a laid-back 40-seat space. He then spends an hour after close making the dough, the restaurant’s one-of-a-kind flour included, for the next evening. No refrigeration. No multiple batches. “Neither of those make any sense to me,” says Conte, a self-described perfectionist, even if that means turning customers away if capacity is reached. There’s a reason Inferno’s hours are Wednesday to Sunday, 5 p.m.—“until the dough runs out.”

In 2015, seeking a departure from the fine-dining world, Conte decided to take on this new challenge. It’s part homage to his heritage (his father and grandparents hail from Pontelatone, north of Naples, in Italy), part practicality (he lives with his wife and two children two miles away), and primarily a passion project. (He got his start in the restaurant business in high school, making New York-style pizzas in Hamden, Connecticut.)

We don’t normally review restaurants in Gaithersburg, but all we can say is, make the hour drive southwest and you’ll get it. This year, Conte earned a distinction that all chefs covet—he was nominated for his profession’s highest individual honor—for making mostly $10 to $13 pizzas, no less. Yes, they are that good. The thin, light, crispy-bottomed pie is a true elevation of the pizza form. Marinara, smoked prosciutto and black truffle are among six choices on the menu, and locals know to add organic egg topping to any pizza they order.

On a recent Friday night, our party of two sat at the six-person counter. On Saturdays, this area is used for special tasting parties, and it overlooks the small open-concept kitchen, where Conte takes 45 seconds to build each 11-inch artisanal pizza, and where his assistant fires the pies in a wood-burning tiled oven at about 900 degrees for as long as the nearby large plastic containers still have risen dough in them.

We started with a healthy sampling of flavorful and seasonal, locally sourced appetizers—roasted cauliflower, a beet salad, and burrata—while drinking Brookville IPAs and white wine, and we ended with an equally fantastic dessert. (We’re still talking about the house-made ricotta cheesecake and affogato.)

In between was the main event: My margherita pizza bore a huge, trademark Neapolitan air-bubble blister. The kid in me couldn’t help but poke at it as I eyed a piece of the pie that offered a healthy mix of San Marzano tomatoes, Fior Di Latte mozzarella, olive oil, and basil. With its beautifully crunchy dough and satisfyingly fresh toppings, it begged for another bite, and maybe another order.

“I’ve been known to eat two of them myself,” Conte told me. I’ve been to pizza heaven, and its name is Inferno.


›› Inferno Pizza 12207 Darnestown Rd., Gaithersburg, 301-963-0115. Wed.-Sun. 5 p.m.-9 p.m.; appetizers: $6-13; pizzas: $10-18.





You May Also Like


Food & Drink

Bill of Health

How to make healthy choices when eating out.

On The Town

Self-Serve Wine Bar Opens in Locust Point Next Month

Serenity Wine Bar will offer the modern technology along with made-to-order pizzas.

On The Town

Baltimore Eagle Reopening on Easter Weekend

The Station North bar plans a “resurrection” to celebrate an even more inclusive, community feel.


In Good Taste

Open & Shut: Mason’s Lobster Rolls; The Pikes is Back; Chef Changes

The latest restaurant openings, closings, and recent news.

Food & Drink

Garden of Eden

Lane Harlan’s beer garden and natural wine bar thrives in Old Goucher.

Food & Drink

Local Flavor Live Podcast: A Bread Service Rises in Charles Village

Plus, Pillion Tea, 414 Light Street cookbooks, construction, and we share our best bites this week.

The wood oven-roasted potatoes & onion pizza and the D.O.C. margherita pizza. -Scott Suchman

Connect With Us

Most Read


Maryland Legislature Passes Brewery Modernization Act: Plus, new laws will loosen distillery regulations and distribution relationships.

Balti Virtual Partners with Washington Capitals for New Augmented Reality Game: Just in time for the playoffs, the Baltimore company designed augmented reality game Tilt The Ice.

Where to Celebrate the Return of Game of Thrones: The best watch parties, food specials, and events honoring the HBO show.

Open & Shut: Sophomore Coffee; The Urban Oyster; Raw Bar; Smoke: The latest restaurant openings, closings, and recent news.

Boxing Champ Gervonta Davis Eyes Hometown Fight in July: Upton Boxing Center stablemate Lorenzo Simpson to fight on undercard.