You don’t need to put any money into the Coke machine at Bank Street Deli on the edge of Little Italy to get one hell of a drink. No soda slides out when you twist the handle of this vending machine, but what does happen is—as the iconic brand’s slogan suggests—real magic.
The red Coca Cola-branded machine is actually a door, which opens to reveal Highball, a large speakeasy that sits hidden behind the deli. It’s a rather jolting transition from the quiet side street to the small, nondescript sandwich shop, to the stylish bar, but it’s one you’ll be pleased you made. From behind that bar, Highball is serving some of the best cocktails in the neighborhood.
The concept, which opened in November, comes from the Alliance Restaurant Group, which also runs local spots including Blue Agave and The Outpost American Tavern in Federal Hill.
About a dozen stools sit in front of a two-sided bar in a room with soaring ceilings and exposed beams. A sign reading “Bank Discount Liquors & Package Goods” hangs as an homage to the building’s previous occupant. Tables are scattered around the perimeter and in another room with a two-way mirror—through which patrons can watch newbies struggle to piece together how to find their way to the back. (When we’ve visited, staff behind the deli counter gladly revealed how to enter the magic door.)
A variety of drinks dot the menu, and the ones we’ve tried during multiple trips have all delivered. None more so than the Black Butterfly. Made with mezcal, blackberry, lime, and a bit of fernet (an Italian bitter), it’s wildly refreshing and goes down dangerously smoothly.
The Eden on Eutaw combines gin, Campari, and vermouth with cucumber to create a tasty tart drink. The Harbor Ice—vodka with lemon, orange liqueur, and simple syrup served in a sugar-rimmed glass—emits serious lemon drop vibes. A Bawlmer Bramble, a bourbon-based libation with lemon and honey syrup topped with thyme, would warm even the coldest body on a brisk day. Even Highball’s take on the classic Old Fashioned, which includes two kinds of bitters and a flamed orange peel that adds a hint of smokiness, is unique.
True to half its name, fat deli sandwiches (including egg-based breakfast varieties) are available for takeout or to eat at the bar. If we had one suggestion, it would be to add a few snacky-type items to the menu. Right now, the only bread-free offerings are salads.
But the place is ever evolving. Possibilities for the future reportedly include a membership program with members-only days, 1920s-themed parties, murder mysteries, and comedy shows.
Who knows, maybe magic shows will be next.