Food & Drink
NE NIGHT LAST FALL, while I was taste-testing for this story, a server from a seafood house in Fells Point arrived at our table to talk about the daily specials. That evening they included an octopus ceviche spiked with Hatch chile aioli and bouillabaisse with thick ribbons of pappardelle pasta soaked in seafood broth and tossed with braised clams. “There’s just so much good stuff tonight,” the server said. “I don’t know how you decide.”
This is precisely the task at hand for our annual Best Restaurants issue—to pick from an embarrassment of riches in a city that has arrived as a dining destination. The decision of who makes the list weighs on us all year long, especially as our food scene continues to expand exponentially, offering more enticing options than ever. Finalizing the list is a daunting job. Thanks to ever-widening multi-cultural options that circle the globe and menus that mirror Maryland’s vibrant seasons, the competition is stiffer than ever—there is, indeed, so much good stuff it can be hard to make up our minds. But somehow, after many months of dining out, we winnow our list down—and we do decide.
Restaurants that have made the cut in the past might be missing, while new spots, or places we’ve only just discovered, stand in their stead. In addition to appearing on our pages, many of these restaurants have received recognition outside Baltimore, from acclaim in major publications to James Beard nods.
Last September The Wren had a particularly banner week, landing on The New York Times list of 50 Best Places to Eat in the country and Bon Appétit’s roundup of Best New Restaurants of 2025. Just down the road in Harbor East, the white-tableclothed Charleston earned a long-awaited James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program, while Matthew Oetting’s Italian-inflected Marta in Butchers Hill became a first-time Beard nominee. And further north, up I-83 in Hampden, The Duchess’s delectable shrimp and corn patties were named one of the 23 best dishes in the U.S. by The New York Times.
The places that land on this list have something to say. That includes the well-appointed rooms of Federal Hill’s Ammoora, Baltimore’s first Syrian fine-dining spot; Rooted Rotisserie, a celebration of faith, family, and Parisian-style roast chicken in historic Hollins Market; and Frederick’s Wye Oak Tavern, a Mid-Atlantic steakhouse from celebrity chef brothers Michael and Bryan Voltaggio.
The restaurants we chose offer fresh concepts, service with a smile, a great vibe, and good value. Above all, they have a “why” imbuing their establishments with passion and purpose. We also highlight a handful of chefs who are the engines and auteurs of their respective kitchens, including Carlos Raba of Clavel, who shares the tacos of his Sinaloan childhood, and Magdalena’s Scott Bacon, whose multi-cultural background informs and inspires his cooking. And in this day of seasonal menu shifts, we speak with chefs about the one evergreen dish that will never leave their menus.
With this issue, we invite you to revisit an old favorite or try a new spot. Picking a place from this group will not be easy, but rest assured, there’s no such thing as a bad decision here.
Above: The roasted duck breast with guava jelly on Calasparra rice at Alma Cocina Latina in Station North; The dining room at Alma.
Clockwise: Dinner service
is in swing; co-owner Irena
Stein in a rare moment of
relaxation in the entryway
at Alma; dry-aged Spanish
mackerel with margarita
chile mojo, green mango
slaw, and tostones; Mango
Manaca, Salsa Is Greener,
and Calenton cocktails
alk through Alma’s welcoming doors, on this Station North corner just south of the Charles Theatre, and you’re transported, if not to Venezuela itself then certainly to a palace that honors co-owner Irena Stein’s homeland and its magnificent cuisine. Executive chef Héctor Romero orchestrates a Michelin-worthy menu featuring stunning creations that showcase ingredients and recipes from his country. The dishes are exemplary, both in technique and presentation: spiced roasted duck with Calasparra sofrito criollo, foie gras mousseline, and guava jelly; grilled, dry-aged Spanish mackerel with Margarita chile mojo, daikon, green-mango slaw, and tostones; or an ethereal scallop and coconut crudo with citrusají-dulce dressing and coconut sorbet. And don’t sleep on desserts—like a chocolate gâteau with orange foam, candied orange peel, dried strawberries, cocoa nibs, and sarrapia crème anglaise—as Romero also has serious pastry-chef skills.
MEET THE CHEF
Héctor Romero
Héctor Romero was a
fine-arts visual artist
before he was a chef, and
you can see the artistry on
his plates: breathtaking
arrangements of crisped
rice, seafood, and herbs;
pools of sauce lapping
edible architecture;
concentric circles forming
flavor-bomb desserts. He
was a teacher, too, having
founded the Culinary Institute
of Caracas in 2003,
and as such is a pioneer of
Venezuelan gastronomy.
Ammoora
FEDERAL HILL
For those who think of hummus and tabouleh only as casual food, Ammoora, the Levantine fine-dining restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Residences, is revelatory. With arching ceilings, Islamic art-inspired mosaics, and mother-of-pearl furniture imported from Damascus, Syria, the homeland of owner Jay Salkini and chef Dima Al-Chaar, the place resembles a palace as much as a dining room. The show continues with an Arabic coffee service in sand-heated metal pots. And then there’s the food: spreads presented on silver trays with just-made pitas, haloumi cigars thatched with nigella seeds, lamb shanks atop saffron rice and pomegranate seeds glistening like jewels, and Dubai chocolate for dessert.
Ananda
FULTON
This Northern Indian restaurant is a destination spot, an oasis of fine dining in a location sporting outdoor patios, indoor fireplaces, and superb service, with a nearby farm from which owners and brothers Keir and Binda Singh source so much of what translates to their plates. (How many white-tablecloth restaurants offer farm eggs for sale at their front desk?) There are flatscreens at the bar, cozy fireplace dining options, and a kitchen that excels in vegetable- forward dishes: a palak chat of crispy spinach, house herbed yogurt, and pomegranate and tamarind chutney; and kaddu, a marriage of the farm’s delicata squash, onions, tandoori spices, goat-milk yogurt, and pomegranate seeds.
Bunny’s Buckets & Bubbles
FELLS POINT
There are certainly fancier restaurants than Jesse Sandlin’s homey spot specializing in Southern-inspired cooking. Consider the cocktail menu that has drinks like the Folicello Paloma: tequila with pink grapefruit juice, cream soda syrup, and sparkling orange wine. Want a wild appetizer? Champagne can be paired with caviar. If that’s too fancy, hush puppies or pimento cheese dip offer a more down-home start to your meal. Fried chicken is a cornerstone, and the biscuit and sides (try the green beans with ham hocks) that come with the plate are almost as good as the star. Ever thought about making a crab cake but substituting chicken? Sandlin has, and the result, like the rest of her foray down south, is a blast.
Cece’s of Roland Park
ROLAND PARK
With its neutral palette and gold porcelain plates, Cece’s boasts one of the best-dressed dining rooms in Baltimore. A menu of prettily plated continental classics, including house-made pastas and well-executed fish dishes and steaks, is equally stylish. With recently installed chef Chris Audia (his chef C.V. includes stints at Magdalena and D.C.’s Michelin-starred Tail Up Goat) at the helm, there are plenty of new menu additions—a roasted shellfish dish featuring oceanic treasures shellacked in lemonbutter sauce, for example—to keep repeated visits feeling fresh. In season, the verdant patio is a little slice of Eden. It’s the ideal spot to toast to the sunset with one of their beautifully balanced negronis.
Charleston
HARBOR EAST
For 29 years now, Cindy Wolf, owner-chef of this whitetablecloth titan, keeps outdoing herself. The main dining room, the colors of an Impressionist painting, somehow sparkles more than ever; and Wolf’s phalanx of staffers stand at your beck and call, whether you need a pashmina shawl or a second piece of her signature cornbread (which you undoubtedly will). You’re here because you’re hungry, so carefully consider the menu of painterly plates that follow the rhythm of the seasons. When available, lobster bisque, cornmeal-fried oysters, and shrimp and grits are obligatory orders. Last year the restaurant earned the ultimate imprimatur, a medal from the James Beard Foundation for its beverage program, so partake in those pairings.
Cinghiale
HARBOR EAST
Open since 2007, this Italian-accented gem recently returned to its OG roots, featuring two different menus in two distinct dining rooms: an enoteca with pizza and half-priced wine nights on Tuesdays to the left; an osteria for more formal fare and a tasting menu to the right. Both offer a phenomenal wine list, toothsome plates of house-made pastas, and an outstanding salumeria selection—adorned with pansies, pomegranates, fresh figs—that resembles a Caravaggio still life when it arrives at your table. If the magret of duck is on offer—one fall preparation included a rich red wine reduction, farro, plus green beans swaddled in prosciutto—place your order before the kitchen runs out. Opera nights (some Sundays) will further transport you. The whole experience feels like eating in a palazzo.
Clockwise: Showtime at Clavel; salmon crudo with
salsa de tortilla tatemada,
wasabi mayonesa, a
stack of house-made flour
tortillas and
tostaditas; a trio of tacos
with a side of frijoles negros
hen it first opened 11 years ago, Clavel was an inviting hideaway, one of Baltimore’s best-kept secrets. But that secret has been out for some time now, thanks to press from Bon Appétit, The New York Times, and Saveur, not to mention the James Beard Foundation, which nominated Carlos Raba as Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic and routinely nominates their outstanding bar program—Maryland’s first to focus on mezcal.
It’s a local rite of passage to line up early to secure your spot, then order from the taquería’s marvelous menu where everything, beginning with the nixtamalized corn tortillas, is made from scratch. Start with the crowd-pleasing queso fundido, then move on to one of their fantastic ceviches, before digging into an open-faced taco—or five—whether topped with tongue, lamb, pork, sirloin, or shrimp.
In addition to the signature dishes, try the knockout pescado culichi: pan-seared mahi-mahi in a velvety roasted poblano pepper cream sauce. Add to that heartfelt service and potent margaritas and you’ll understand why this place has scores of faithful followers whose devotion is a form of religion in Charm City.
MEET THE CHEF
Carlos Raba
Memory and family are at
the fore of James Beard-nominated
chef Carlos
Raba’s cooking. At Clavel,
tacos are the canvas
against which Raba shares
the story of his Sinaloan
childhood. The flour
tortilla recipe is from his
great-grandmother, Maria;
the barbacoa and cochinta
pibil tacos were passed
down by his aunts; the
carne asada was imagined
in his uncles’ restaurants;
the torpedo-sized burritos
were inspired by roadside
stands in Mexico.
Cookhouse
BOLTON HILL
The cocktails and dishes at chef-owner George Dailey’s small but oh-so-stylish restaurant, housed in a 19th-century brownstone, are almost too beautiful to touch. Almost. The vodka-based AP&B is garnished with a slice of apple topped with three dollops of peanut butter and herbs. It could be an appetizer on its own. But then you’d miss out on the prawn Caesar, an assemble-it-yourself plate of lettuce cups and grilled shrimp skewers in a rich, classic dressing. Along with the ever-popular steak frites, there’s always a thoughtful vegan dish among the entrees. Dailey is particularly adept at cooking mushrooms, and the chanterelles that accompany the pan-seared John Dory and the porcini that complements the pillowy gnocchi have been known to steal the show.
Costiera
LITTLE ITALY
Dinner is always outstanding at this wonderful, Mediterranean-influenced bistro on the edge of Little Italy. Fresh pasta dishes, like rigatoni with grilled eggplant, tomatoes, herbs, and stracciatella, consistently deliver, as do the plump swordfish meatballs served over house-milled polenta. But for a truly memorable experience, pre-order a half or whole octopus. The dish, which includes a substantial salad, is plated with red potatoes and vegetables and serves four to six people. It’s a visually impressive presentation that draws the attention of diners throughout the restaurant. Perfectly charred with just the right amount of chew, the octopus is the brightest star at a restaurant that boasts many.
Forever Dishes
Seasonal dishes that are here to stay.
Swordfish Meatballs
at Costiera
"Swordfish meatballs will be around
forever. The sword is from Long
Island. We mill the polenta in-house.
Freshly milled polenta adds to the
dish—ours tastes like corn. The meat
is super fatty and works well for a
meatball. The ingredients are
simple—onion, fennel, garlic,
breadcrumbs, and chile flakes. We
top it with puttanesca and ground
pistachios.
"We sold 2,100 orders the first year when we weren’t even busy here. Now, we sell 60 to 70 orders a week; that’s 30 pounds a week of swordfish. We use every part of the swordfish. I was inspired by Marc Vetri in Philadelphia. Years ago, chefs were doing whole pigs, whole cows—he’d use the whole fish. That got me interested. I love eating seafood and being from Maryland. It’s a way to incorporate it onto our menu and do something fun." —Owner-chef Brian Lavin
The Dara
FELLS POINT
Tucked into a historic Fells rowhouse that has long been a tavern and was once upon a time a brothel, The Dara is now a splendid Thai restaurant. Opened, co-owned, and cheffed by Bangkok native Putthipat “Jeff” Wannapithipat, the place presents more like a woodsy cabin than a curry joint, with lofty ceilings and an actual wood stove. And the food is fantastic: spice-charged curries, bowls of khao soi—the Northern Thai yellow curry-coconut-noodle stew—Hatyai fried chicken with cornflower-blue butterfly-pea-powder rice, and Maryland-y dishes like crab fried rice and crab curry. And there’s an inventive, flavor-driven cocktail list to wash it all down.
Clockwise: An array of dishes including the shrimp kelaguen and tatiyas, the famous shrimp and corn patties, and ahi tuna poke; bartender Jake Kinnier shakes
up a tropical storm; knives out at the server station; chai apple cider shave ice
estaurateur Tony Foreman’s latest concept presents like a mash-up of Pacific Island food and elevated English pub/sports bar. Kiko Fejarang runs a forward-thinking Hampden kitchen spotlighting the food of her native Guam. Think SPAM musubi, pork lumpia, grilled duck donburi, and a fish n’ chips dish that is remarkable in both flavor and technique, with tempura-fried fish, furikake fries, and yuzu tartar sauce. Other standouts include short-rib kare kare and, on weekends, the most magical deep-purple ube pancakes. The Duchess brings a creative new space, both homey and refined, to The Avenue, and it’s fun to see how they’re twisting the old aesthetic, with dishes that expand our collective palate.
MEET THE CHEF
Kiko Fejarang
As a kid in Guam, Kiko
Fejarang wanted to be
the first Marine in her
military family, but when
asthma derailed that
dream, she switched
gears and went to culinary
school while still
a teenager. She got her
first gig at a Seattle
hotel at 18, then moved
to Baltimore to work at
Foreman’s Pazo. Save for
a few years with Michael
Mina, Fejarang, now 40,
has worked with
Foreman ever since.
Dylan’s Oyster Cellar
HAMPDEN
This always-bustling oyster bar with a small dining room got a jolt of attention when it was featured in the film The Baltimorons. But writer and star Michael Strassner knows what Baltimoreans have known for a while: Dylan’s is a pearl for oysters, cocktails, coddies, and conversation. There’s an ever-changing selection of raw oysters, but the grilled variety—topped with butter and breadcrumbs—remains blissfully unchanged. Among the menu staples, the butterflied rainbow trout and charred burger are consistent winners, but so are dishes that make sporadic appearances, like the fish pot pie—red drum mixed with carrots, fennel, onions, and potatoes beneath a flaky exterior.
BY THE NUMBERS
350
pounds of chicken ordered weekly at Bunny’s Buckets & Bubbles
500
pounds of pasta sold weekly at Cinghiale
24,000
oysters sold monthly at True Chesapeake
400
lobster rolls served weekly at Thames Street Oyster House
4,000
limes juiced weekly
for margaritas
at Clavel
limes juiced weekly for margaritas at Clavel
Foraged
STATION NORTH
A visit to this sweet neighborhood farm-to-table spot owned by chef Chris Amendola is like taking a delicious walk in the woods. The James Beard-nominated chef takes his cues from Mother Nature with a focus on hyper-seasonal and, yes, often foraged, ingredients. The vegetable-forward menu of vibrant small plates leans heavily into mushrooms of all sorts, from Chicken of the Woods woven into threads of house-made bucatini to a Maryland-style “crab cake” built from Lion’s Mane mushrooms. The one-page menu is both eclectic—behold the section of pig parts—and enticing in its seeming simplicity. Consider the five-course chef’s tasting menu and always order at least one of pastry chef Josi Stewart’s divine desserts.
Forever Dishes
Seasonal dishes that are here to stay.
Mushroom Stew
at Foraged
"The mushroom stew is the
one dish that’s been on the
menu since day one and I’m
pretty sure there would be
riots in the streets if we took
it off the menu. Our diners
just love it and it’s also one
of my favorite dishes that
I have on the menu. What
I love is that, depending on
the time of the year, it
changes so much without
changing. It really just
depends on what
mushrooms we have from
foraging, whether it’s
Chicken of the Woods in the
fall or Bolete mushrooms in
the spring. Mushrooms are
just such a huge part of
what we do. They’re part of
our brand." —Owner-chef
Chris Amendola
Getrude’s
HOPKINS-HOMEWOOD
It doesn’t get more Maryland than this longtime fixture inside the Baltimore Museum of Art. Owner-chef John Shields—the man who put Chesapeake cooking on the map—is a state treasure. His well-honed Chesapeake classics, straightforward and simple, let local ingredients do the talking. Oysters arrive raw or fried in cornmeal; crab stars in salads, soups, and quiche; and catfish gets a Creole treatment. There’s also a nod to his Grandma Gertie, whose crab cake, a broiled beaut with lovely lump from Cambridge-based J.M. Clayton (in season), earns top billing. Generous portions and reasonable pricing are of note at a time when rising food costs might mean you leave the table still feeling hungry.
Gunther & Co.
CANTON
Jerry Trice never stops challenging himself. The head of the kitchen at this Brewers Hill landmark, who runs the restaurant with his wife, Nancy, is a wildly creative chef, as evidenced by Gunther’s ever-changing menu. A compressed watermelon salad with feta, red onion, toasted pistachio, dill, and basil is incredibly juicy and readies the palate for what comes next. It’s no surprise that fried oyster tacos hit home; oysters in myriad forms are treated with reverence here nightly. Standards like the Thai seafood hot pot and a dry-aged burger are joined by creations like fried Indonesian pork belly. There’s not a bad seat in the house—the front bar, main dining room, and outdoor patio are all lovely—and it’s never a bad time to order something new.
Hersh’s
RIVERSIDE
Pizza put this bro-and-sis (that is, sibling owners Josh and Stephanie Hershkovitz) neighborhood restaurant on the map, but while the Neapolitan-style pies, with their delectable, charred crusts, are indeed excellent, it’s the host of other little things that have kept this gem on this list. Start with the service. Everyone who walks through the front door is greeted as a treasured guest, and once the meal starts, the pacing is perfect. Want to add cheese to a vegan pizza? No problem. Homemade pastas, like squid ink spaghetti with clams, are as good as any in the city, and an array of interesting appetizers, including expertly fried squash tempura, signal from the start that Hersh’s is anything but a one-trick pony.
La Cuchara
HAMPDEN-WOODBERRY
We eagerly await the return of this Basque Country restaurant helmed by brothers Ben and Jake Lefenfeld, temporarily closed due to a fire, as a visit to La Cuchara engages all the senses. There’s the sound of wood crackling from the asador loaded with succulent shrimp that will later get tossed with piquillo peppers, capers, and fennel pollen; there’s the smell of the strip steak glistening with smoked-tomato butter; there’s the sight of delighted diners in need of nothing as they commune over plates of pintxos, tapas, conservas, and whatever inspires chef Ben in any given season. There’s also a beguiling list of Spanish wines that enhances anything you eat. In case you’ve forgotten, this is what a good time looks like.
Le Comptoir du Vin
STATION NORTH
Walk through this nondescript Station North door and you’ll be whisked away to a dining room in some Southern French town, replete with chalkboard menu, an insouciant vibe, and magnificent country French cooking. Find a chair, order a glass or a bottle of natural wine from the wine shop, and take your pick from co-owner Rosemary Liss’ menu: maybe cassoulet, maybe chicken liver pâté with red wine shallots and rye crackers. Don’t overlook desserts, like a pot de crème or a plate of Camembert with Medjool dates and crackers. The plates might be mismatched china, but the food delivered on them is unmatched.
Linwoods
OWINGS MILLS
The restaurant’s namesake, Linwood Dame, and his wife, Ellen, may have retired after a 36-year run, but the spirit of the spot remains. The fine-dining stalwart continues to specialize in New American fare and polished service under new co-owner and longtime chef Tom Devine, who, way back when, presided over the very first dinner service. Linwood’s classic standards stand the test of time—pepper-encrusted, grilled tenderloin salad, bronzino with crab imperial, thin-crusted scampi pizza, and a pecan pie that’s the best we’ve ever had. There’s something to be said for sticking to the rule: If it’s not broken, don’t fix it.
Little Donna’s
FELLS POINT
With its granny-chic décor and a chef who visits the dining room then excuses himself to head to his apartment upstairs to put his babies to bed, Little Donna’s total lack of pretension is what makes it so utterly charming. Owner-chef Robbie Tutlewski is one of the least assuming—and most gifted—chefs in town. His menu honors his Polish and Midwestern tavern roots. Here, you’ll find cheffed-up takes on Polish dishes like crab palacinkes with hot pepper jam or crisp-crusted pizzas strewn with clams and even fixins from a taco as a topping. Another part of the allure is that you never know what you’ll find—go back often so you don’t have to guess.
Forever Dishes
Seasonal dishes that are here to stay.
Pierogies
at Little Donna’s
"The pierogies will never, ever leave
our menu—they will follow me
forever. My grandmother Donna
always made these pierogies—that’s
the one dish that has followed me
my whole career. When I met my
wife years ago, she lived in a co-op
and we would do family dinner once
a week. The first time we cooked
together, we made pierogies. It was
just important for me—that’s the
reason we serve them.
"We are glad now that it’s a niche thing, because not that many people make them. I make them because it reminds me constantly of my family and I want to share that with people. My family is small, my sister passed away at an early age, but making these helps keep the memory of my family alive. We make about 275 a day and usually sell out. —Owner-chef Robbie Tutlewski
Love, Pomelo
CANTON
This dining darling from the owners of Café Dear Leon is the under-the-radar restaurant you wish was in your hood. So even if you don’t live near O’Donnell Square, make the pilgrimage for Roman-inspired dishes from a small seasonal menu that differentiates itself in what can sometimes feel like a sea of sameness. On a recent visit that meant a splendid Gem salad with anchovy dressing and English peas; spools of spaghetti with bottarga and anchovy butter; and white Bolognese rigatoni slicked with Parmigiano-Reggiano sauce. Apertivo hour (with excellent negronis, house-made stracciatella, grilled sourdough) is a great introduction if you don’t want to commit to a whole meal, though we highly suggest that you do.
Clockwise: The crispy
duck leg with red miso
carrot purée, grilled
baby carrots, and
freekeh; assistant
sommelier Randall
Mentzos gets ready
for dinner service; the seasonal
canape board is
presented
ith its gold accents, white marble, and subdued shades, Magdalena—set inside the historic Ivy Hotel—is a study in quiet luxury. The understated dining rooms serve as a backdrop for chef Scott Bacon’s sophisticated, often-changing menu that’s guided by the seasons. Bacon moved on from Magdalena in 2024 only to return some 12 months later. And his second act—with a focus on the Mid- Atlantic with global notes—is stronger than ever.
The new menu brims with many moments of culinary virtuosity: A lamb loin is glazed with harissa and served with pistachio tapenade; a duck leg gets the barbecue treatment; East Coast snapper is grilled to a crackle, then glazed with shellfish butter. The pièce de résistance is a changing cavalcade of canapes that includes items like a ramekin of sweet-corn panna cotta scattered with lavender buds. There are other draws, too: Service is unerring, the wine list is award-winning, and in season, the ivy-covered courtyard is positively sublime.
MEET THE CHEF
Scott Bacon
Executive chef
Scott Bacon is a true
artist-chef. Every plate
is presented with
panache and is as unique
as his British/Southern
heritage. His cooking is
inventive, boldly spiced,
and a balance of classic
and exotic, whether he’s
pickling persimmon and
whipping Brie for an
appetizer or pan-roasting
salmon with cauliflower
Grenobloise sauce.
Marta
BUTCHERS HILL
It’s loud in this bustling small bistro near Patterson Park—and for good reason. The menu and atmosphere in chef-owner Matthew Oetting’s James Beard-nominated nouveau Italian restaurant are worth shouting about. Meticulously made cocktails and a thoughtfully curated wine list hint at the attention to detail to come. A loaf of Stone Mill Bakery bread is accompanied by housemade basil-oil butter. Seared scallops are expertly prepared and served with a lobster zabaglione. The pastas are always excellent, but don’t miss entrees like the porterhouse lamb chop, served atop creamy polenta, grilled broccolini, huckleberry lamb jus, toasted pistachio, shaved ricotta salata, and mint. It is, like the whole of Marta, an exquisite sum of its parts.
The Milton Inn
SPARKS-GLENCOE
Two of the main dining rooms in this restaurant, set in a storybook, circa-1740s fieldstone building in Sparks, have turned into CIA-trained chef Chris Scanga’s personal playground. It’s there that he showcases the full range of his talents with an ambitious nightly tasting menu whose foundation is French and ever-shifting with the seasons. Scanga’s precision preparations—be that a plate of yellowfin tuna crudo with compressed peaches, tomato oil, and green olives in late summer, or butternut squash ravioli lacquered with rosemary brown butter come fall—mirror the elegance of the candlelit dining rooms. For more casual visits, there’s a vibe to match your mood: a charming pocket-sized bar area, a cozy tavern-style room with an oversized hearth, or a pretty patio to enjoy the bucolic setting.
NiHao
CANTON
Six years after NiHao opened, the Sichuan restaurant has become a part of the neighborhood, turning out splendid renditions of Peking duck, popcorn chicken, dry pots, water-boiled fish, and the soup dumplings called xiaolongbao, among many other things. James Beard Award-winning chef Peter Chang—born in Hubei, graduate of culinary school in Wuhan, former chef at Washington, D.C.’s Chinese embassy—now runs a DMV empire of restaurants, including two in Baltimore. We are lucky to have him, especially now that his weekend all-you-can-eat dim sum brunch parties have become a mainstay. Scallion bubble pancakes, chile-oil wontons, and bottomless pink mimosas. Enough said.
From top: Housemade lasagna
with tofu ricotta; Oleum sign;
the mezze platter features
Lebanese flatbread and
vegetables; tiramisu martini; a seasonal risotto
topped with grated Parmesan
and parsley
or those who still think of vegan food as limiting or gimmicky, a trip to Oleum will come as a revelation. What began as a kitchen experiment in Okinawa, Japan, where chef-owner Alisha Adibe’s husband was stationed, morphed into this 64-seat beauty that opened last June. Adibe’s menu is worldly, creative, and wildly flavorful, driven by spices and herbs and nut-based cheeses and charcuterie and, well, a lot of plants. Picture ricotta-stuffed, spiced Medjool dates; white-miso, mushroom bucatini; over a dozen pizzas; even sticky toffee pudding and chocolate chip cookies. Baltimore hasn’t had a high-end vegan restaurant since Matthew Kenney’s short-lived Liora shuttered and, judging by the typical crowds on a weekend night, the city is more than appreciative.
MEET THE CHEF
Alisha Adibe
Oleum’s chef-owner
Alisha Adibe is an unlikely
vegan restaurateur, having
spent most of her career
not as a chef but as a
personal trainer, and
whose restaurant experience
was limited to a stint
at Applebee’s in her Kansas
hometown. But after she
became a vegan, she went
all-in, cooking not only
food for herself, but for
her clients and her Army
husband’s co-workers.
Soon she had a home
business, then a pop-up
kitchen, and now Oleum.
Peerce’s
PHOENIX
The word fairytale comes to mind when describing the setting at this Indian fine-dining restaurant, situated down a winding road, past towering pines, and smack dab in the bucolic Dulaney Valley reservoir. Here, amidst vines heaving with cherry tomatoes and basil plants as tall as Jack’s beanstalk, you’ll find coowner Keir Singh infusing the spot with warmth, hospitality, and pride of place for his Mother India. Expect boldly flavored fare—kissed with curry and cardamom, tinged with turmeric, accented with chile—that always ignites the palate. Also of note: All the vegetables are sourced from area farms, including the family’s Howard County garden.
Peter’s Inn
FELLS POINT
You can be certain that whatever is scribbled on the sheet of paper that serves as the menu at this upscale restaurant disguised as a rowhouse bar is going to be delicious. Offerings change weekly based on what ingredients owners Karin and Bud Tiffany secure and where their inspiration lies. Standards like the New York strip and the tagliatelle with pistachios and shrimp are reliably outstanding, but so are creations like lobster risotto. For dessert, we sipped what might be the best espresso martini in the city. The last time she had one, the woman sitting next to us told us, she revealed family secrets to her daughter. We have nothing earthshattering to divulge; a staple on this list for years, it’s no secret how much we love Peter’s Inn.
Petit Louis Bistro
ROLAND PARK
From the moment you pass through the 19th-century stained-glass paneled doors and enter the foyer where the famed French cheese cart is parked, Petit Louis Bistro whisks you to Gay Paree. Expect classic offerings like the whole roasted chicken polished with duck fat or the butter-bathed trout amandine, plus seasonal items that make the most of whatever month it happens to be. The French wine list runs deep, the dining rooms are lively, and the service strikes just the right balance between friendly and formal. Best of all, Louis never takes itself too seriously. As the menu promises: “It’s fun! It’s French!” In other words, joie de vivre happens here.
Preserve
ANNAPOLIS
At Preserve on Annapolis’ Main Street, owners Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman have created an original, intensely flavorful, and deeply creative menu organized and inspired by both local produce and what happens when talented folks ferment it. So you get dishes of seasonal pickles, bowls of crispy kale with cumin yogurt and pepper jelly, sausage-stuffed lamb roulades paired with za’atar and pickled fennel, and cherry-chocolate bread pudding with sorghum caramel. There is a loaded cocktail bar, a catfish-and-chips lunch with malt-vinegar aioli—and even a kids’ menu where mini burgers come out in three-dimensional dishes shaped like dinosaurs.
The Prime Rib
MOUNT VERNON
It’s an immutable truth that you go to The Prime Rib on the first floor of the Horizon House apartment building for terrific steaks, classic cocktails, and a 1940s supper club vibe thanks to a legendary jazz trio, some of whose musicians have played with famed bandleader George Clinton. A lesser-known fact? If you grab a white linen-dressed table, you might have a chance to commune with 52-year veteran server Aaron Day, who started at the steakhouse when he was 15. He’ll regale you with tales of the storied patrons who stopped by, including Rosa Parks, Muhammad Ali, and Maya Angelou. And if you’re lucky, he’ll share a few stock tips. A visit here is like stepping into a piece of Baltimore history.
Red Pepper Sichuan Bistro
TOWSON
After running Orient Express in Charles Village for years, owner Ping Wu opened this elegant restaurant in 2019, bringing us more of executive chef ZeXin Zheng’s excellent Sichuan cuisine. Zheng is from Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan and the engine of some of China’s very best regional cooking. The glossy menu reads like a fashion magazine, featuring classics like Peking duck, mapo tofu, and soup dumplings, but also specialties such as Sister Rabbit (rabbit with fermented soybeans), cumin lamb, and a spectacular rendition of mei cai kou rao, a party dish from Guangdong that involves rashers of pork belly draped in a latticed dome over preserved mustard greens.
Rooted Rotisserie
HOLLINS MARKET
There is something transporting about Amanda and Joseph Burton’s Hollins Market restaurant. Family photos make the walls an art exhibition; a friendly barkeep helps you feel like you’re in your favorite tavern; and the tables in the back dining room view the open kitchen where that magic happens. The Burtons formed the idea for their restaurant while on honeymoon in Paris. The rotisserie chicken that was the catalyst informed the restaurant’s name—and its stellar cooking. There are the famous birds, glazed with rosemary oil, but there is also duck-confit gumbo, wine-braised short-ribs, and a smoked mushroom dish that will leave vegetarians feeling extraordinarily happy.
The Ruxton
HARBOR EAST
At this swanky establishment, prime steak is the main event—and, as at any proper steakhouse, you can gild it with truffle butter or king crab. But there’s plenty beyond the beef. Start with house-made tater tots crowned with caviar, followed by a stellar shellfish salad—shrimp, crab, and lobster in blood-orange vinaigrette—before moving on to buttery Jail Island salmon with seasonal sides like wild ramps and beech mushrooms or silky parsnip purée. Finish with the Grand Ruxton Martini, served with a sidecar. Like everything here, it’s a blue-ribbon experience.
Sangam Indian Cuisine
ELLICOTT CITY
The best way to eat at Sangam, the Southern Indian restaurant in an Ellicott City shopping complex (with a second Cockeysville spot), is not so much to eat lunch or dinner but to feast. This is because, as you get to chatting with folks at the next table about their preferred spice level or keep finding exciting new things on the menu to order, a meal at owner Shan Chaudhry’s restaurant, opened in 2024, can feel like a party. The kitchen, helmed by chef Sathish Veeraperumal, turns out 15 kinds of dosas, biryanis, thali specials, appams, curries, and more, all engineered with terrific flavor and care.
Tagliata
HARBOR EAST
This splashy Harbor East hangout (and an Atlas Restaurant Group jewel in their fleet of 54 spots) is an ode to Italian cuisine and one of the best places in Baltimore to enjoy high-quality, hand-cut steaks, exceptional seafood, and hand-made pasta. Order from chef-partner Julian Marucci’s oversized menu and consider the options (from nonna classics like eggplant Parm to more modern riffs like polenta with duck ragu) while sipping on a spritz or ordering a bottle from the largest wine list in Charm City. One menu must, whether you’re a first-timer or a restaurant regular, is the black squid ink campanelle with blue crab, rich uni cream, breadcrumbs, basil, and a hit of chile. In season, the alfresco patio is primo for people-watching.
From top: An Eastern
Shore crab cake feast;
vintage oyster cans
add to the décor; the
bustling brick-walled
dining room featuring
A. Aubrey Bodine
photographs
his seafood-centric spot—a Fells Point institution—highlights the cuisine of coastal New England and the Chesapeake Bay, featuring old-school and new-school preparations. As you sit among the glug jugs and A. Aubrey Bodine photographs, know that when the menu arrives, you’ll have trouble making up your mind. The good news is that whatever you order—Baltimore’s only fried clam belly roll, an Eastern Shore-style crab cake, or a selection from the expansive raw bar (with fresh grated horseradish, no less)—it’s all stupendous. Ask for table 30 overlooking the Patapsco, the crowds, and cobblestoned streets—it’s the best table in Charm City.
MEET THE CHEF
Eric Houseknecht
Thames Street’s staying power—15 years and
still going strong—can,
in part, be credited
to executive chef Eric
Houseknecht, who has
run the kitchen since
day one. Houseknecht’s
superior sourcing means
real-deal blue crab from
MD and oysters from
coast to coast. And the
chef has real range—he’s
able to riff on seafood
standards, while doing
the classics just right.
True Chesapeake
HAMPDEN
The name and the menu mission are one and the same at True Chesapeake. Most of chef Zack Mills’ fare is inspired by, or from, the Chesapeake Bay watershed, including a selection of sustainably sourced bivalves from the restaurant’s own Jerome Creek oyster farm and a jumbo lump crab cake made with bona-fide Maryland meat, plus seasonal preparations of snakehead and catfish. The décor, including the nautical Jay Fleming photos and the bar made of crushed oyster shells, adds to the Mid-Atlantic vibe, as does a kickass happy hour with clam dip and $2 roasted oysters. Martinis and Old-Fashioneds for $6 round out the experience in the best way possible.
Woodberry Tavern
HAMPDEN-WOODBERRY
Who needs a calendar when you have a paper menu from Woodberry Tavern? The offerings speak to the seasons: Rockfish with succotash, sweet corn, and tomatoes ushers in summer; hearty stuffed cabbage with buckwheat groats, cremini mushrooms, braised peppers, and polenta means fall has come; winter brings Chesapeake oysters fried, roasted, or raw; spring ushers in celestial softshell pancakes. James Beard Award-winning chef Spike Gjerde is monastic about procuring ingredients that show case his relationships formed with the farmers and watermen of our region, always reminding us of what a gift it is to live in the DMV.
The Wren
FELLS POINT
There are few things as much fun as finding a seat at the narrow, cramped bar at The Wren, getting a masterfully pulled pint of Guinness, and watching as chef and co-owner Will Mester creates your dinner over a hot plate jigsawed into the corner of the old rowhouse whiskey bar. Mester, his wife and co-owner Millie Powell, and veteran barkeep Adam Estes have fashioned a lightning-in-a-bottle restaurant out of, well, a lot of whiskey bottles. Mester’s line-up, scrawled on a chalkboard (nettle soup, cassoulet) is a mash-up of his farmhouse cooking and Powell’s Irish upbringing, all lubricated by Estes’ pints.
Wye Oak Tavern
FREDERICK
Set inside a desanctified chapel, Wye Oak could easily fall into gimmickry rather than gastronomy. But the cooking here is as serious as the saints who peer down from the altar-turnedbar. That doesn’t mean that celebrity chef restaurateurs Bryan and Michael Voltaggio haven’t kept things fun. Case in point: the coddies appetizer served on a popsicle stick. Make no mistake, Wye Oak is a steakhouse—prime rib arrives thick as a Bible, crusted in garlic and mustard—but it’s also very much a nod, make that a wink, to the duo’s Maryland roots. For years, the Top Chef alums pursued their individual projects—Wye Oak proves that two Voltaggios in the kitchen are better than one.
