A hallmark of the Atlas Restaurant Group’s playbook is establishing a narrative for their bars and restaurants. The Undefeated, a playful new cocktail bar in the heart of Fells Point, is no different. It’s Cuban- and Key West-themed, with the salsa music, tropical feel, and photos of Havana to prove it.
But the truth of The Undefeated’s story is more engaging than the fiction. It opened in January after a protracted fight with local residents, some of whom opposed granting it a liquor license, saying that the bar would draw a sense of unwanted rowdiness and noise to the neighborhood.
Then, word trickled out that Fuzzies Burgers, a food truck serving delicious smashburgers and fries, would be providing its food. Fuzzies had previously been stationed at Peabody Heights Brewery in Waverly, but that relationship ended after its owner posted a pro-Donald Trump message on social media following November’s election.
When Atlas announced that Fuzzies would sling its meat from The Undefeated’s courtyard permanently, dramatic footage of a crane lifting the food truck high into the Fells Point sky, then lowering it into the outdoor space was seemingly everywhere. It was certainly one way to announce its presence with fanfare.
The Undefeated’s backstory sounds like it could have made juicy fodder for the legendary writer Ernest Hemingway, whose persona is celebrated here with photos on the wall and quotes on the website. (Our favorite: “I drink to make other people more interesting.”) One certainty is that the liquor-loving scribe would appreciate the drinks here. In fact, a daiquiri, one of three cocktails on the Cuban classics portion of the menu, is named for him. There are also three Caribbean classics, all rum based.
Seven signature cocktails highlight the menu, and the ones we’ve tried are terrific. The Guantanamera is a mixture of vodka, lime juice, pomegranate, and almond. It drinks easy, and its aftertaste provides a subtle burst of sweetness. The Cubby, made with Planteray Xaymaca rum, hibiscus, lime juice, allspice, and ginger beer, really does make you feel like you’re drinking in Bermuda or the Bahamas instead of Baltimore. It’s light but sneaky spicy, thanks to the allspice.
There’s a monster rum list with labels ranging from $10 to $95 (Diplomatico Ambassador), and solid choices of tequila, mezcal, vodka, whiskey, and two cognacs. If all that drinking makes you hungry, Fuzzies is your only onsite food option.
With bright colors, a long wooden bar with wicker stools, two large leather booths, and a set of four club chairs, the interior of The Undefeated succeeds in transporting its inhabitants to a different mindset. It almost seems like people should be smoking cigars. Smoking isn’t allowed even in the large courtyard, which it shares with its Atlas neighbor Waterfront Hotel. But this does seem like the type of place where, on a nice day, you could easily stare at the water, soak up the sun, and accidentally suck down six sophisticated rum drinks.
Ernest Hemingway would indeed approve—even if some neighbors don’t.