Though we tend to lag behind bigger cities when it comes to food and drink trends, it seems like we have an exciting year ahead.
“Baltimore is a bit slow on the upswing of cocktail trends and bourbon and rye are still on track to keep people happy,” says Brendan Dorr of B&O American Brasserie and the Baltimore Bartenders Guild. “However, there are some things that will become more popular as we lead the charge and help guide our guests to broaden their palates.”
So here are five trends to look out for as you peruse cocktail menus in the upcoming year:
Batched Cocktails: Whether it’s bottling, barrel aging, or putting cocktails on tap, the idea of pre-batched cocktails is a carry-over from last year and still going strong. When we visited Le Garage recently, the staff was barrel aging a Brandy Manhattan and had three bottled cocktails on the menu—including a sharply spicy Family Mule served with candied ginger.
“Some people order it right away, while others remain skeptical,” says Le Garage head bartender Patrick Gartner. “I tell them that there is already vodka in the bottle, I promise.”
Places like Wit & Wisdom are bringing back barrel-aged and bottled cocktails for the spring and Bookmaker’s in Federal Hill barrel ages cocktails that end up on tap. Recently, Dooby’s showed off a batched cocktail at the Pratt Contemporaries’ Black and White Party called Dragonball, which was a mix of bourbon and cinnamon-cayenne syrup.
Lower Proof and Restorative: Contrary to popular belief, a good cocktail doesn’t always have to pack a punch and, sometimes, it can even be good for you. One testament is the rising popularity of the low-proof spirit sherry. (There is now even a sherry bar in D.C. called Mockingbird Hill). “I love this stuff,” says Dorr of B&O. “It’s not just a sweet wine that grandmothers drink. Actually, over 90 percent of sherry produced is dry.”
Another idea that is trending is the restorative cocktail, which includes healthful ingredients. Take the Corpse Reviver Zero at Le Garage with energy-boosting yerba mate tea and lime-pastis and mint, which are good for the stomach. Bookmaker’s crafts its own tonic from cinchona tree bark, which can be used to fight Malaria.
“People here are still really blue collar and they like their liquor,” says Dooby’s head bartender Chelsea Gregoire. “So we are a little ways from becoming totally holistic and proof-conscious, but it’s something bartenders are starting to think about.”
Bitter is Better: Overwhelmingly, every bartender we spoke with emphasized that bitter will be a popular flavor profile for 2015. “Amaros, Fernets, Campari, and many other bitter liqueurs are making their way into our cocktails,” Dorr says. “They add balance and depth, and can turn an otherwise blah cocktail into something extraordinary.”
Ryan Sparks of Bookmaker’s Cocktail Club attributes the rise of bitter food like kale and arugula to the expansion of people’s palates. Gregoire of Dooby’s says places like Idle Hour were on the forefront by campaigning Chartreuse years ago. In fact, Dooby’s currently has a version of a Sazerac on its menu with a Fernet Branca float. “Everybody is like, yes, bitter, give it to me,” Gregoire says. “Makes it more fun for us.”
While not bitter, another predicted popular flavor this year will be smoke, as evidenced by the rising popularity of mezcal.
Culinary Approach: In the works for a while, the techniques and ideas employed by the kitchen and bar staffs are overlapping more than ever. “I find myself going to the chef and asking for advice about what is seasonal,” says Le Garage’s Gartner, who explained that the chef taught him how to use the water circulator. “In most restaurants, the kitchen is not as patient with the bar staff. They give me a lot of room to brainstorm.”
Similarly, at Dooby’s, Gregoire is constantly working with the kitchen to pair cocktails with its unique Asian flavors, like a Korean gochujang sauce. The staffs at Wit & Wisdom are also always collaborating and some of the techniques used by head bartender Aaron Joseph sound more like kitchen talk than bar talk. Think carbonating citrus for a Pimm’s Cup or straining a mixture through a cheese-cloth for a milk punch.
All Housemade, All The Time: And speaking of whacky approaches, lately bartenders have been blowing our minds with their creative approaches to housemade ingredients.
Gartner at Le Garage is making sous-vide liqueurs. (Yes, that’s right, the technique usually reserved for tenderizing meat.) Once example is he vacuum seals fresh ginger, molasses, cinnamon, cloves, brown sugar, and a neutral spirit for about 45 minutes. The result is a gingersnap-flavored liqueur he uses in hot toddies.
Like many places around town, Bookmaker’s creates its own bitters and its also big into shrubs instead of simple syrups, like one that head bartender Ryan Sparks creates with smoked apples and cardamom. “I’m seeing a lot of smaller places embracing housemade ingredients,” he says. “They allow you to determine how your cocktail will taste, and you can achieve that exact desired flavor.”
Get a first-hand look at these innovative techniques, as nearly 20 bartenders will be crafting rye cocktails for Rye’s Up, a benefit for Cystic Fibrosis Foundation of Maryland at B&O American Brasserie on March 1.